The Call of the Himalayas: Climbing an 8000m Peak

Debbie MarkhamJohn Martersteck

Himalayan Expedition Planning

Select the Objective Nepal vs. Tibet vs. Pakistan Training Selecting a guide outfit Choosing the level of support Altitude, acclimatization, and

appetite Supplementary O2? Gear considerations Keeping warm

Select your Objective

Our progression: CO 14ers Peru trek & Mt. Pisco BMS, HAMS, Mt. Rainier Mt. Fairweather Ecuador – 5 peaks Denali Cho Oyu

Work your way up, gain skill and confidence, to raise the bar:

Colorado, HAMS, Cascades Mexico, South America Europe Alaska Himalayan 7000m 8000m

Choosing an 8000er

Difficulty vs. your experience and ability Guided vs. Self-Guided Style, level of support Duration (Ama Dablam – 4 wks, Cho Oyu – 6 wks, GII 8 wks) Climbing Season: Apr/May, June/July, Sept/Oct Time off work Budget

airfare, lodging, meals, etc. climbing guide, fees, tips permits, visas additional gear

Tibet vs. Nepal approaches

• Famous trek to BC through Khumbu Valley

• Begin acclimatization during approach• Much more expensive Everest permit• Full Sherpa support readily avail,

English more common, food more western?

• Much more crowded standard route, Everest Base Camp is a zoo (and dirty). Internet access at BC

• Must climb Khumbu Icefall, Hillary Step

• Interesting drive to BC thru western Tibet, time-consuming border crossing. Military presence.

• Drive to Chinese Base Camp at 15k'• Deal with Tibetan Mountain Association;

permits can be declined at any time• Sherpa and Yakpa support; English less

common, Chinese food• Much less crowded standard route.

Chinese must be first to summit. Internet access not universal.

• Technically more difficult, with more “steps”.

Nepal Tibet

Pakistan and the Karakoram Range

Home of K2,Broad Peak, Gasherbrums, Nanga Parbat

Fabulous approach through the Concordia, but longer Different climbing season Safety concerns in Islamabad, Karakoram Highway, but

people in N Pakistan are generally friendly and welcome tourists

Considerations prior to travel

Climbing and Travel Insurance Immunizations (3-6 months in advance) Other Meds

Cipro or similar antibiotic (for GI illness) Diamox? Pepto Bismal, Immodium Cold, Allergies, and Flu pills Antacids, Anti-Reflux Dexamethasone Anti-nausea

Easy to purchase meds in Kathmandu

Training

Longer hikes and climbs up high on the weekends, best with teammates

Mid-week local hikes with loaded pack

Weight training, cardio

Establish a planwith your team4-6 months ahead

Parnassus Peak (13,574′)James Peak (13,294′)Quandary Peak (East Ridge) (14,265′)Pacific Peak (West Ridge) (13,950′)Mt. Silverheels (13,822′)

Training

Early Spring – not able to climb most snow couloirs safely, so we focused on avalanche-safe routes above 13K’

Selecting a Guide company

Accreditation; are guides certified? References

Longevity in Nepal/Tibet or Pakistan How experienced guiding your route? Summit success rate? Cost and what is included, e.g. food,

equipment Attitude, philosophy, communication

Choosing the level of support

Use of Fixed Lines set upby expedition Sherpas

Emergency O2 and support You climb w/o support above ABC

(haul all group gear, food, build tent platforms and erect tents at high camps)

Base Camp only Logistics and Permits Van/Bus and Hotels to Base Camp Truck /Yak support to Advanced Base Camp

(ABC) Tent and Food while in ABC

Full Support Includes Base Camp support plus: Sherpas establish routes and fix

ropes Sherpas haul tents, build tent

platforms, and erect tents Sherpas haul stoves, fuel, and

some food above ABC Climbing Sherpa support (e.g. one

for every two climbers) Guide makes the decisions

Consider the tradeoffs

Altitude, Acclimatization, and Appetite

Long Acclimatization Schedule Chinese Base Camp Interim Camp Advanced Base Camp Touch Camp 1 Sleep at Camp 1 Sleep at Camp 1 then Camp 2 Wait for summit window

Altitude, Acclimatization, and Appetite

Appetite• Imperative for maintaining strength• Diminished at altitude• Expedition food may not be the most appetizing• Supplementary food is essential – bring what you like• Consider putting on a few pounds prior to the climb

Gear Additional sleeping bag (one for ABC and one for Higher

Camps) Extra tents and pickets, bamboo stakes, or ice screws for

anchors (for Base Camp only support) Ropes if you are establishing your own route Stoves and fuel

Figure 8 device for rapping Essential to have lots of reading material, puzzles/games,

cards, music, journal, laptop (if internet access is available) Spare batteries (can charge ipods at ABC)

Keeping Warm Warmest Boots, Overboots Warmest Gloves / Mitts / Balaclava Heavy 8000m parka and snow pants Face mask for warmer, moister breathing Hand and foot warmers Electrically heated insoles (with charger)

Supplemental Oxygen May be what enables you to summit Helps you sleep at high camp Helps to avoid frostbite Facemask is warm; can summit in higher wind

conditions Makes the climb safer and more enjoyable Usually required on Everest It’s not cheating!

BUT It’s expensive It’s heavy (and, too often, trash) If you run out, you may die! More pure style and more

challenging to climb without

Optional gear?

Helmet

Cho Oyu: an easy snow climb?!?

• Most likely not Everest (we like to climb!)• Cascades : Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier• The Year of the Mountaineer: Bolivia• Alaska: Foraker? West Rib? Dreamin’ of the Cassin!

What’s next?