Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

21
The Basic Wardrobe Fashion Finesse Guidelines in avoiding mistakes in developing your personal style: 1. Always aim for appropriateness. The best rule is always to dress within the bounds of classic good taste. A sense of propriety, dictated by the occasion and the company, is necessary. Good materials and lines embellished with elegance – rather than flamboyance or modish extremes – are the unfailing guidelines that will ensure you comfort and ease. Appropriateness is determined by a number of factors, and can change dramatically from situation to situation. Outside or indoors, mixed ages or peers, geography, building, event, and the weather can affect one’s mode of dressing. 2. Fashion is serious. What you wear reveals a significant message about you and your world. Even if you do not care about clothes per se, they communicate much about your attitudes towards the occasion, your company, and yourself. In the morning you make a decision about what to wear to which others respond all day long. Think of your clothes as the most communicative factor after your face and eyes – personal style is how you send nonverbal messages. 3. Dress for others, as well as for your own image. No one wants to fade into the woodwork; it is nice sometimes to lead the pack, and quite naturally you want your clothing to communicate that you “belong.” Your goal is a wardrobe of clothes that are right for your body, your personality, your environment and the specific occasion. The first step in learning who you really are is to take a good look at yourself and what you do. Decide in which general category of style you feel most comfortable in. Whether it’s sporty, tailored, romantic, or sophisticated, always remember that your choice is not static and does not forbid crossing over for variety and experimentation. In creating your own personal style, ask yourself the following questions: Has my body size, weight, height, proportion changed? Has my lifestyle changed? Has my attitude changed? Have my friends, school, or workplace changed?

Transcript of Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

Page 1: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

The Basic Wardrobe

Fashion Finesse

Guidelines in avoiding mistakes in developing your personal style:1. Always aim for appropriateness.

The best rule is always to dress within the bounds of classic good taste. A sense of propriety, dictated by the occasion and the company, is necessary. Good materials and lines embellished with elegance – rather than flamboyance or modish extremes – are the unfailing guidelines that will ensure you comfort and ease. Appropriateness is determined by a number of factors, and can change dramatically from situation to situation. Outside or indoors, mixed ages or peers, geography, building, event, and the weather can affect one’s mode of dressing.

2. Fashion is serious.What you wear reveals a significant message about you and your world. Even if you do

not care about clothes per se, they communicate much about your attitudes towards the occasion, your company, and yourself. In the morning you make a decision about what to wear to which others respond all day long. Think of your clothes as the most communicative factor after your face and eyes – personal style is how you send nonverbal messages.

3. Dress for others, as well as for your own image.No one wants to fade into the woodwork; it is nice sometimes to lead the pack, and

quite naturally you want your clothing to communicate that you “belong.” Your goal is a wardrobe of clothes that are right for your body, your personality, your environment and the specific occasion.

The first step in learning who you really are is to take a good look at yourself and what you do. Decide in which general category of style you feel most comfortable in. Whether it’s sporty, tailored, romantic, or sophisticated, always remember that your choice is not static and does not forbid crossing over for variety and experimentation.

In creating your own personal style, ask yourself the following questions: Has my body size, weight, height, proportion changed? Has my lifestyle changed? Has my attitude changed? Have my friends, school, or workplace changed? What amount of time do I have to devote to the upkeep of my wardrobe? What are my monetary limitations? What impressions do I want to make? Do I want to make any changes in my current style? How can I express my adaptation of the season’s trends without sacrificing my fashion

statement? Is there a role, or roles, I would enjoy acting out through dressing as I seek to discover

varied facets of my nature?

First Impression- the instant judgment people form when they meet you (on a subconscious level)- on a visual level and crystallizes even before you open your mouth- ninety percent of which is composed of your clothing, and the rest is formed when you utter

your first sentence

Page 2: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

How is your first impression formed?

The following are the factors that help the viewer form the first impression:

1. Economic levelo Is he rich or poor?o Is he working or unemployed?

2. Educational levelo Is he a high school or college graduate?o Is he an attorney or a doctor?

3. Social positiono Does he live in one of the villages?o Does he belong to the upper socio-economic level or the lower level?

4. Level of sophisticationo Is he the party-hopping type, the social register type?o Is he the “provinciano” type?

5. Family backgroundo What is his social, educational, and economic heritage?o What is the position of the family in the community?o Are they known by their family names or not?

6. Successfulnesso Is he successful?o Does he have a car, a house and lot?o Is he important in his company?o Is he known by his business associates and peers?

7. Moral charactero Does he look honest?o Is he the type who will put one over others?o Will he cheat me?

ASSEMBLING A BASIC WARDROBE1. Clean up your closet2. Know your figure3. Shop wisely and well

Shopping Traps to Avoid1. Think twice before shopping with a friend. A friend is a distraction and may keep you from

focusing on what you came for.2. A friend’s taste and aims may be different from yours.3. A friend may choose clothes which he/she would choose for himself/herself, but not

appropriate for you.4. Avoid shopping out of loneliness. Bake a cake or take up some sport instead. Shopping for the

wrong reasons bring out wrong results.5. Don’t shop for bargains. Don’t judge a merchandise by its price tag.

LINES IN CLOTHES1. The Vertical Line

Page 3: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

o The line which runs lengthwise from head to toeo Creates an illusion of heighto Makes a person look tallero Ideal for the plump person

2. The Horizontal Lineo The line cutting across from side to sideo Cuts height and adds width

COLORS The first principle in decorating yourself is understanding not only what colors are right for you, but which shades you should wear.

Your Color Spectrum

1. Primary Colorsa. Redb. Bluec. Yellow

2. Secondary Colorsa. Greenb. Violetc. Orange

3. Tertiary Colorsa. Blue-Violetb. Violet-Redc. Red-Oranged. Yellow-Greene. Orange-Yellow

Page 4: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

f. Blue-Green

Types of Color Combinations

1. MonochromaticThis color combination results in the use of same color, but different shades. An

example of this is brown, light brown, and beige.2. Complementary

This results in the use of two colors, opposite each other in the color wheel. Examples are red and green, blue and yellow, etc.

3. AnalogousThis combination uses two colors beside or adjacent to each other in the color wheel.

Examples are blue and green, green and blue green, etc.4. Triadic

This combination is made up of three colors that form an equidistant triangle on the color wheel. These are purple, green and orange; red, blue, yellow; etc.

Your Best Colors

1. Beigeo Your best beige is the color of your skin. Match it exactly.

2. Browno Your best brown is your hair color.

3. Grayo If you have reached the gray-hair stage of your life, your best gray is the color of your

gray hair. Avoid ray that looks muddy or dull when placed next to your skin.4. White or Off-Whites

o Your best white should not be whiter or brighter than your teeth. People with brown-beige skin look good in brownish off-whites. Almost everyone should avoid grayish whites.

5. Redo Your best shade of red is your body’s natural blood color. It is the color you turn when

you blush or flush. You can see it on the palms of your hands, and the inside of your lower lip.

6. Blueo If blue is your eye color, match it. If it isn’t in your eyes, it is a complementary color for

you.7. Green

o Just like blue, the green of your eye color is your best green. The best green is one with a clear tone or closest to a jade or emerald green. Yellow-greens are harder to wear.

8. Yellowo Most people have yellow in their eyes. The best yellow to use is one that is not too

bright for your coloring. The hardest to use are lemon yellow and mustard gold.9. Black

o Some look good in pure black. Others, the best shade would be a brown black or blue black. If your hair is black, black will be a very effective color for you.

Page 5: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

10. Navyo Navys can be nautical blue, bright navy, or royal navy. Your best navy color is

determined by noting what it does to your skin tone. If it dulls it, avoid it.

Meanings of the Different Colors

1. REDRed is the color of fire and blood, so it is associated with energy, war, danger, strength,

power, determination as well as passion, desire, and love. Red is a very emotionally intense color. It enhances human metabolism, increases respiration rate, and raises blood pressure. It has very high visibility, which is why stop signs, the stop light, and fir equipment are usually painted red. In heraldry, red is used to indicate courage. It is a color found in many national flags. Red brings text and images to the foreground. Use it as an accent color to estimate people to make quick decisions; it is a perfect color for “Buy Now” or “Click Here” buttons on internet banners and websites. In advertising, red is often used to evoke erotic feelings (red lips, red nails, red light districts, “Lady in Red,” etc.). Red is widely used to indicate danger (high voltage signs, traffic lights). This color is also commonly associated with energy so you can use it when promoting energy drinks, games, cars, items related to sports and highly physical activities.Shades of Red:a. Light Red – represents joy, sexuality, passion, sensitivity, and loveb. Pink – signifies romance, love and friendship; denotes feminine qualities and passivenessc. Dark Red – associated with vigor, will-power, rage, anger, leadership, courage, longing

malice and wrathd. Brown – suggests stability and denotes masculine qualitiese. Reddish Brown – associated with harvest and fall

2. ORANGEOrange combines the energy of red and the happiness of yellow. It is associated with

joy, sunshine, and the tropics. Range represents enthusiasm, fascination, happiness, creativity, determination, attraction, success, encouragement, and stimulation. To the human eye, orange is a very hot color, so it gives the sensation of heat. Nevertheless, orange is not as aggressive as red. Orange increases oxygen supply to the brain, produces an invigorating effect, and stimulates mental activity. It is highly accepted among young people. As a citrus color, orange is associated with healthy food and stimulates appetite. Orange is the color of fall and harvest. In heraldry, orange is symbolic of strength and endurance.

Orange has very high visibility, so you can use it to catch attention and highlight the most important elements of your design. Orange is very effective for promoting food products and toys. Shades of Orange:a. Dark Orange – can mean deceit and distrustb. Red Orange – corresponds to desire, sexual passion, pleasure, domination, aggression, and

thirst for actionc. Gold – evokes the feeling of prestige; it means illumination, wisdom, and wealth; often

symbolizes high quality3. YELLOW

Yellow is the color of sunshine. It is associated with joy, happiness, intellect, and energy. Yellow produces a warming effect, arouses cheerfulness, stimulates mental activity, and generates muscle energy. Yellow is often associated with food. Bright, pure yellow is an

Page 6: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

attention getter, which is the reason why taxicabs are painted this color. When overused, yellow is known to have a disturbing effect; it is known that babies cry more in yellow rooms. Yellow is seen before other colors when placed against black; this combination is often used to issue a warning. In heraldry, yellow often indicates honor and loyalty. Later the meaning of yellow was connected with cowardice. Use yellow to evoke pleasant, cheerful feelings. You can choose yellow to promote children’s products and items related to leisure. Yellow is very effective for attracting attention, so use it to highlight the most important elements of your design. Men usually perceive yellow as a very lighthearted, childish color, so it is not recommended to use yellow when selling prestigious, expensive products to men – nobody will buy a yellow business suit or a yellow Mercedes. Yellow is an unstable and spontaneous color so avoid using yellow if you want to suggest stability and safety. Light yellow tends to disappear into white so it usually needs a dark color to highlight it. Shades of yellow are visually unappealing because they lose cheerfulness and become dull. Yellow represents caution, decay, sickness, and jealousy.Shades of Yellow:a. Light Yellow – associated with intellect, freshness, and joy

4. GREENGreen is the color of nature. It symbolizes growth, harmony, freshness, and fertility.

Green has strong emotional correspondence with safety. Dark green is also commonly associated with money. Green has great healing powers. It is the most restful color for the human eye; it can improve vision. Green suggests stability and endurance. Sometimes green denotes lack of experience; for example a ‘greenhorn’ is a novice. In heraldry, green indicates growth and hope. Green, as opposed to red, means safety; it is the color of free passage in road traffic. Use green to indicate safety when advertising drugs and medical products. Green is directly related to nature, so you can use it to promote ‘green’ products. Dull, darker green is associated with money, the financial world, banking, and Wall Street.Shades of Green:a. Dark Green – associated with ambition, green, and jealousyb. Yellow Green – can indicate sickness, cowardice, discord, and jealousyc. Aqua – is associated with emotional healing and protectiond. Olive Green – is the traditional color of peace

5. BLUEBlue is the color of the sky and the sea. It is associated with depth and stability. It

symbolizes trust, loyalty, wisdom, confidence, intelligence, faith, truth, and heaven. Blue is considered beneficial to the mind and body. It slows human metabolism and produces a calming effect. Blue is strongly associated with tranquility and calmness. Blue is used to symbolize piety and sincerity. You can use blue to promote products and services related to cleanliness (water purification filters, cleaning liquids, vodka, etc.), air and sky (airlines, airports, air conditioners, etc.), and water and the sea (sea voyages, mineral water, etc.). Blue is a masculine color, and according to studies, it is highly accepted among males. Avoid using blue when promoting food and cooking because blue suppresses the appetite. When used together with warm colors like yellow or red, blue can create high-impact, vibrant designs. For example, blue-yellow-red is the perfect color scheme for a superhero.Shades of Blue:a. Light Blue – associated with health, healing, tranquility, understanding, and softnessb. Dark Blue – represents knowledge, power, integrity, and seriousness

6. PURPLE

Page 7: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

Purple combines the stability of blue and the energy of red. Purple is associated with royalty. It symbolizes power, nobility, luxury, and ambition. It conveys wealth and extravagance. Purple is associated with wisdom, dignity, independence, creativity, mystery, and magic.

According to surveys, almost 75 percent of pre-adolescent children prefer purple to all other colors. Purple is a very rare color in nature; some people consider it to be artificial.

Shades of Purple:a. Light Purple – evokes romantic and nostalgic feelings; good choice for a feminine designb. Dark Purple – evokes gloom and sad feelings; can cause frustration

Investing in Your Wardrobe

1. Know yourselfWhat items in your wardrobe have you had the most wear out of a perfect black blazer?

A pair of black pants that make you feel thin? The perfect skirt that you can dress up or down?How do you spend most of your time? Staying home? Working in the kitchen? Sitting

at a desk? Meeting with clients?Do you take your clothes to the cleaners or do you wash and iron them yourself? Do you

have your clothes altered to fit you perfectly?How often do you go out in the evening and where do you usually go? Pizza and a

movie? A cocktail party with clients? Out all night at a club?How much do you travel and where?Choose three adjectives to describe yourself. Do they also describe what you wear?

2. Know your resourcesWhere do you usually shop? At a mall? At a boutique in your neighborhood? From

catalogues and magazines?Who makes your favorite suit? Pair of pants? Jeans?

3. Know your bodyWhat is your best physical asset? Long legs? Long neck? A dark or white complexion?

What can you wear that will put the focus where you want it? A short skirt? An off-the-shoulder top? A shirt in a gorgeous color?

What items of clothing always makes your body look its best? A well-cut suit? Have you ever bought more than one item at a time?

Do you usually wear flats or heels? This will affect the proportion and shape of the pants and skirts you wear.

Do you want to attract attention with your clothes or look quietly well-put together? How much of your body do you usually reveal?

4. Know about the cost per wearIf price alone is making you flinch, apply the peso-per-wear concept. If a P100.00 blazer

might seem cheap, it may not be a bargain if you wear it only three times, but a P500.00 blazer is good value if you wear it for three or more years.

Also ask yourself whether you can really afford a big purchase – how many hours of work would it take to pay it off? If you spend more than 20 percent of your pay check on clothes, you need to think twice.

Factors Affecting Choice of Colors

1. Color of skin, eyes, and hair

Page 8: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

The Filipino’s “kayumanggi” complexion looks best in shades of coral, orange-reds, browns, greenish-blues. If you have a rosy complexion, you will look well in shades of red and orange tones. Beige with touches of brown is flattering for you.

2. PersonalityYour personality is an important factor in the choice of colors. The colors should make

you feel right. A right, red dress may disturb you if you are shy and retiring. Ai you are a dynamic person, a delicate pastel may not look right on you.

3. OccasionOffice clothes should not be as bright as your sports clothes. Evening clothes should be

more dramatic than daytime clothes. As a whole, office clothes should be more conservative, more subdued than clothes for social occasions.

Women’s Fashion

SKIRTS

Skirts are a working woman’s chief means of multiplying her wardrobe. She should have at least one straight style, with a split or pleat.

The A-Line Skirt

This style is small and slim at the waist and hugs perfectly around your waist and hips and graduates to a fuller bottom, just like the letter A. The length is knee-level or just below it. This style is perfect for women that have big hips and thighs. The A shape of the skirt doesn’t allow the fabric to cling to the part you want to conceal.

The Pencil Skirt

This style can be used by every body type but this will look best on women who have a curvy figure because the slightly tapered bottom shows off the curve. Just consider the length; it should be knee-level or above the knees. This style works for both a long and short waist.

Tube Skirt

It is of a similar fit and style as that of a pencil skirt, but it’s longer in length. The length stops at the ankle. This style is good for women with curves and for women with a wider top and smaller bottom.

Asymmetrical Skirt

Page 9: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

This style has an uneven hemline which is usually longer on the other side. It creates a line and a curve by drawing the angles of the body. This style conceals part of your legs, which is good for women who have heavy thighs. This skirt should fit you right; not too tight and not too loose.

Column Skirt

This style is good in lengthening the body line so this will look best if you are tall and leggy. Women with a rounded figure and narrower hips can use this style. It also conceals big ankles and calves because the length stops at the ankle or just below it.

BLOUSES

Blouses are a great wardrobe staple to have whatever your lifestyle or line of work. They can upgrade casual pieces, add polish to more formal attire, and can be worn in a variety of ways. So invest in a few classic blouses. Your wardrobe will be the better for it. Only a few basic colors are needed to have a variety of uses.

Classic Blouse

The classic v-neck blouse is the most versatile and is generally flattering to all body types. If you have a short neck, short waist, large bust, or broad shoulders, opt for simple lines and no embellishments. If you have sloping shoulders, try styles with shoulder embellishments like epaulettes and puffy sleeves. If you have a small bust, look for styles with breast pockets, ruffles, or shirring.

Surplice Wrap

Another popular style, the surplice wrap is figure-friendly to all but the thinnest and least-endowed. It makes heavy torsos look thinner, large busts look smaller, short waists look longer, and long waists look shorter. How? I don't know - but Diane von Furstenberg has sold millions of her wrap dresses in the last thirty years because this diagonal line is flattering to so many bodies. Surplice wraps can look very elegant under suits or on their

own, depending on the fabric.

Ruffled Blouse

Ruffled blouses typically offer ruffles around the neck, along the buttons, or at the sleeves. Because the ruffles add extra bulk, they can be very flattering to the boyish or small breasted figure. Avoid if you're heavy or fully busted, however, as

they'll only call attention to these areas.

Shell

Page 10: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

A basic shell is a like a dressy t-shirt with its simple, utilitarian shape. It works well on most body types and can be dressed up or dressed down, depending on what you wear with it. If you have a short neck or large bust, opt for styles with a U-neck instead of a jewel (circular) neck to open up the neck area and make your neck look longer.

SUITS

The Pantsuit The Skirted Suit

DRESSES

The Column/Sheath Dress

Form fitting dresses that are generally solid colors or one pattern with little or no embellishments. They can be any length, but typically hit at the thigh or knee. Body Types:These dresses are great for hour glass figures. They highlight all the best features of the hour glass perfectly. They can also be great for pear shaped figures. The trick for this figure would be to balance the top with the bottom. You can do this by adding a wrap, or short cardigan to the top. Also look for two toned column and sheath dresses with a lighter color on the top. The ruler figure could get away with the same rules as the pear shaped figure, but would look even better with a different dress style.

The Wrap Dress

The Wrap dress is a dress that wraps around the body and ties at the side. The neckline is universally flattering as it is always a V. Body Types:This dress is great on ALL body types if you know what to look for. Hour glass figures need to find wrap dresses with a natural waist line. This accents the small waist and curves of this figure

type. Pear and Apple Shaped women should look for wrap dresses with more of an empire waist line (right under the bust) with a skirt that flows out from the waist to minimize the hips and rear. Ruler figures look great when the dress has emphasizing details at the top (like flutter or slightly puffed

sleeves) and also a flowing skirt.

The Maxi Dress

Page 11: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

The Maxi dress is a long flowing dress with an empire waistline. These dresses have become extremely popular lately. They are comfortable and very feminine. Body Types:This dress can look fairly good on all body types, but was made for the ruler figure. This accentuates the long willowy figure of the ruler type. Apple and pear figures should find a dress that hits at they're

smallest point and flow generously outward. Hour glass figures can wear this dress well, but it does little to highlight their shape and can add a few pounds if the fabric is too flowy. Hour glasses should look for dresses in this style that have skirts fitting closer to their silhouette.

The Baby Doll Dress

Baby doll dresses are cute, and generally less formal. Most of these dresses have short or cap sleeves. They can be paired with a cute short 3/4

sleeve sweater if you are self conscious of your arms. This style is definitely younger though. Those that are 40+ should proceed with caution! Body Types:Another dress that can be worn by all body types, with the right waist and hem line. Apple figures should look for an empire waistline with a flowing skirt. The hem should fall right below the knee. Pear figures need to look for baby doll dresses with embellishment at the top. Ruching across the bust would be perfect. The hem line should also fall right at or below the knee. Hour glass figures should find waistlines that hit at the natural waist. They can get away with a shorter hemline. Ruler figures would also look fab in this dress. Look for detail at top. The waist and hemline aren't as strict for this figure. Going to short however will make you seem younger in this style for any of the body types.

The Suit Dress

A suit dress is a dress with matching jacket. They are great for the work place, but can also be beautiful at a wedding, graduation, or luncheon. Body Types:Any body type can look great in suit dress. The best body for this style is the Apple figure. Look for suit dresses that have a jacket with at least three buttons. The jacket should be very structured and come in at the waist. Stay away for anything too boxy. Pear figures would look awesome when the jacket is short and fitted. This can also be

great for rulers that want to add a little bulk. Look for jackets that come in at the natural waist line and fit close to the body. Hour glass figures should avoid suits with long or boxy jackets. They can totally over whelm this figure. Close fitting suits with shorter jackets are also a good choice for you.

The Empire Dress

An Empire dress has an empire waist line and then flows close to the body and generally down to the ankles or floor. However, there are many variations of this style with shorter hemlines. Body Types:This is a good style for ruler and pear shaped figures. Both should look for dresses with embellishment on the top. Pear shapes need to make sure the fabric isn't too tight across the hips. Apple and hour glass figures might look

Page 12: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

for a different style. Hour glass figures could get away with this style if the dress stays close down the waistline.

The Shift/Trapeze Dress

A shift dress can also be called a Trapeze dress. These dresses fit tight across the shoulder and the top of the bust and then fall shapeless to the hem. They can also be called tent dresses. It was made popular in the 60s. Body Types:This dress is another great option for the apple figure. The flowing fabric is wonderfully forgiving. Pear shapes can also wear this shape well. Both of these figures should try to find hems at the knee. This could possibly be a good choice

for the ruler figure if the fabric isn't too flowy and fits right next to the body. If hour glass figures decides to give this fad a try, they will need to find a thick belt for right at the waist. This style would be extremely overwhelming for any figure that is petite however.

EVENING WEAR

Different styles and classifications of evening wear suit a wide range of events, budgets and locales. A semiformal wedding requires a different type of clothing than the Met Costume Institute Gala, while cocktail dressing encompasses yet another set of rules. Even a trip past the Mason-Dixon line can reveal a change in the definition of evening dress. Regardless of how the styles may change, evening wear still feels special every time a woman slips it on.

IdentificationEvening wear is usually marked by more formal fabrics, dramatic silhouettes and higher cost per

garment. Common evening wear fabrics include silk, satin, velvet, chiffon, georgette and metallic lame. In addition, evening wear ensembles typically include a pair of special-occasion shoes, a small clutch bag and an elaborate hairstyle.

Formal dress is widely available, with most leading department stores housing an evening wear department. In addition, many bridal salons and Internet stores also carry dressy clothing. However, great evening ensembles can often be produced from a combination of everyday fashions and fancier pieces.

TypesIn the world of women's evening wear, dresses rule the field. For less-formal occasions, such as

drinks or a nice dinner out, a knee-length or shorter cocktail dress is the best choice. Cocktail dresses also work for a night of dancing or a semiformal wedding.

Usually, the more formal the event, the longer the dress. For a semiformal wedding, a dress that falls at or slightly below the knee is suitable, as is a tea-length dress. Ankle- or full-length dresses are the most formal of all lengths and usually cost the most. A full-length dress may have a train, or it can have a very full skirt; depending on the structure, it may require underpinnings, such as a petticoat or slip. Long dresses are a must at white-tie events, formal weddings, balls and galas.

Page 13: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

Cocktail Dress Tea-Length Dress Full-Length Dress

The Appropriateness of Evening Suits and Dress PantsSome women prefer to wear a formal suit or pants outfit as evening wear. In some instances,

this can work; well-cut pants with an embellished top are appropriate for business formal functions and look very respectable. However, they may not be the best choice for the most formal of occasions.

Instead of a suit, try what fashion matriarch Carolina Herrera always wears: a fancy white blouse, combined with a sweeping, floor-length skirt. This look is elegant and time-tested, gaining popularity back in the 1940s and 1950s. Formal suits and dress-pants ensembles are best left for church, the theater, dinner parties and semiformal events.

ConsiderationsThe very definition of evening wear, and the types of clothing appropriate for that category, has

changed drastically. Nowadays, starlets sometimes wear cocktail-like dresses to the Emmys, and maxi-length dresses are popular for the cocktail hour. In some venues, it's fine to get creative with evening wear. In others, it's not such a good idea.

Although designers and editors may be styling casual shirts with formal bottoms in editorial shoots and on the runway, it can be a risky proposition in the real world. If in doubt, it's always best to stick to an ensemble that's obviously formal. Being overdressed is better and less embarrassing than arriving underdressed. No matter what your personal preference is, your attire should be something that honors the occasion and shows what respect it merits from you.

Men’s Fashion

Basic Types of Suits

The American Cut The Ivy League Suit The Continental SuitBest Suit for your Body

Body Type: Tall and Skinny

1. Go for heavier fabric

Page 14: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

If you’re tall and skinny, get heavier fabrics to add some proportion and additional weight to your body. Lighter fabrics will hang on your body like a thin layer and make you look frailer, so look for fabrics like tweed or a heavier weight worsted wool.

2. Stick with light colorsLighter colors always make things appear more bulky, so use this to your advantage.

Stay away from vertical stripes (that lengthen) and dark colors (that are slimming) and choose a lighter color such as khaki or gray.

3. Choose a higher button stanceThree buttons will look more flattering on a tall guy because it has height and length

that is proportional to his body. You can even go with a two button jacket if you’d like but choose one with a button stance that’s closer to your solar plex than your navel.

4. Go for single or no ventBecause most tall and skinny men don’t have much of a rear to make room for, they can

either go for no vent or a single vent. Jacket vents were created to allow better movement and comfort for the wearer as well as being a stylish touch, but tall and skinny guys would look like they have a fuller rear if they stuck to the single or no vents on their suit jackets.

5. Look for regular rise pantsTall guys have long legs, so their pants shouldn’t make them seem any taller. The best

way to prevent seeming any taller than you are is to ensure the pants have a longer rise; the rise of the pants, which is the distance from the waistband to the crotch, help establish the proportions between the body and the legs. A regular rise will bring balance and symmetry to your already long legs and torso.

Body Type: The Bulky Man

1. Wear lightweight fabricsA man with a fuller frame – muscular guys included – should find a fitted suit that’s

slenderizing. Let soft, worsted wools be your guide when choosing fabrics because you don’t want to add heavy fabrics on top of your bulky frame.

2. Use dark colorsEvery big man has heard that dark colors are slimming. It’s even more true with suits

because you automatically wear the same color on top and bottom, creating a monochromatic outfit that makes you look visually taller and more slender instead of cutting you in half at the waist and bringing attention to a belly. Choose dark navy or black for your suits for the best effect.

3. Make it solid or vertical stripesSolids work best in creating a slender look. Loud patterns will definitely work against

you, but if you’re looking for something other than solids then vertical stripes are the way to go. Vertical stripes elongate the frame, and they also add some chic style to your suit mix. Big guys can also choose tiny, innocuous patterns for a bolder look, but only if they proceed with caution.

4. Go for two buttons if you canThe two-button jacket is now the norm and designed to work for all body types. Added

cushion on the torso can mean a disproportionate look in the jacket. To ensure the best-looking fit in the coat, remember that two buttons are optimal. As an industry standard, it won’t draw attention to your bulky frame, like the modish impact of a one-button jacket or the slimming effect of a three-button piece.

5. Stick to single vent jackets

Page 15: Chapter 3 - The Basic Wardrobe

While it’s doubles on the buttons, bulky guys must keep the inverse in mind on the vent; specifically, avoid double-vented jackets. Vents, which are the slits at the back of the jacket, allow more movement. They also attract the eye, so huskier guys may not want to accentuate their backside. Instead, go for a single-vent jacket, which will give you the extra room you need minus the extra attention.

Body Type: The Short Guy

1. Stick with subdued patternsAvoid suit patterns that are too loud, because it will only draw attention to your small

frame. So avoid patterns like houndstooth, herringbone, glen urquhart check, windowpane check, etc.

2. Embrace vertical stripesVertical stripes are one of the greatest way to create an illusion of lengthening a short

frame. As stripes run top to bottom, they tend to draw the eye upward and elongate the look of the suit. Thus, it gives the illusion of making shorter men seem taller than they are.

3. Make it one or two buttonsChoose a jacket with one or two buttons. Whichever you choose is your choice, but just

keep in mind that a lower button stance will also seem more proportionate to your frame and give you some length.

4. Go for double ventsDouble vents emphasize the outside lines of the body so they create a longer silhouette

that complements and lengthens your frame. It’s also more stylish than the single vent so there’s nothing to lose here.

5. Look for low rise pantsWhen it comes to the pants, look for a low rise. The rise is vertical distance from the

waist to the crotch; low-rise pants stretch out the torso, making you seem taller. They dramatize the proportions of your frame to look sleeker and longer. In fact, the lower rise of the pants, the longer the body looks. Also, avoid cuffs on the pants because they will shorten your legs.

THE BUSINESS SUIT

TERMS OF DRESS1. CASUAL2. INFORMAL3. SEMIFORMAL4. FORMAL

a. BLACK TIEb. WHITE TIE