Chapter 1Routine maintenance and servicing

Air filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5Antifreeze (coolant) concentration check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11Antifreeze (coolant) renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Automatic transmission selector check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Brake line and flexible hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Carburettor vent filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Clutch adjustment and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Clutch fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Contact breaker points renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Drivebelt check (and renewal) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Driveshaft rubber gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Engine idle and fast idle adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Front brake pad and rear brake lining check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Fuel filter renewal (Turbo only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Hydragas units check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Ignition check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Ignition timing check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Maintenance procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2Maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1Oil filler cap renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Steering, suspension and shock absorber check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

1•1

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expertDIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

1 Maintenance schedule

Contents

1

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with theassumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These arethe minimum maintenance intervals recommended by themanufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehiclein peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of theseprocedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because

it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of yourvehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or drivenfrequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, morefrequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

Always road test your car after servicing.

1•2 Maintenance schedule

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly- whichever comes first mm Refer to “Weekly Checks”

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes firstIn addition to the previous Section, carry out the following:

mm Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).

mm Clean the magnetic drain plug (Section 3).

mm Check the carburettor piston damper and top-up if necessary

(Section 15, paragraph 2).

mm Check the operation of the transmission selector (automatic

models only) (Section 4).

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or12 months - whichever comes firstIn addition to the previous Section, carry out the following:

mm Renew the air cleaner element (Section 5).

mm Renew the spark plugs (Section 6).

mm Renew the fuel line filter (Turbo only) (Section 7).

mm Renew the carburettor vent filter (where fitted) (Section 8).

mm Check the crankcase ventilation system (Section 9).

mm Check the condition of the battery and clean the terminals

(Section 10).

mm Check the antifreeze concentration (Section 11).

mm Check the cooling system and hoses for leaks (Section 12).

mm Check and adjust the contact breaker points (Section 13).

mm Check the alternator and water pump drivebelt; renew and

retension if necessary (Section 14).

mm Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 2A).

mm Check and adjust the engine idle speed and carburettor mixture

(Section 15).

mm Check, and if necessary adjust, the ignition timing (Section 16).

mm Check the fuel supply system for damage, deterioration and

leaks (Section 12).

mm Check the clutch hydraulic pipes for leaks (Section 12).

mm Check the driveshaft gaiters for splits and leakage (Section 17).

mm Check, and adjust if necessary, the clutch return stop clearance

(Section 18).

mm Check the exhaust system for leaks and security (Section 19).

mm Check the door and bonnet locks for operation (Section 20).

mm Check the seat belts for operation and damage (Section 21).

mm Check the headlight beam alignment (Section 22).

mm Check the brake line and flexible hose (Section 23).

mm Check the front brake pads and discs for wear (Section 24).

Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or18 months - whichever comes firstIn addition to the 6000 miles (10 000 km) Section, carry out thefollowing:

mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 30).

mm Renew the clutch fluid (Section 31).

mm Check the brake pad warning indicators (Section 24).

mm Check the rear brake linings and drums for wear (Section 24).

mm Check the steering rack unit for security and damage (Section 25).

mm Check the steering joints and arms for wear and damage

(Section 25).

mm Check the steering gaiters for splits and leakage (Section 25).

mm Check the suspension joints and mountings for wear and

damage (Section 25).

mm Grease the front and rear suspension pivots (Section 25).

mm Check the Hydragas units and lines for leaks (Section 26).

mm Check the handbrake operation and adjust if necessary

(Section 27).

mm Lubricate the handbrake linkages and cables (Section 27).

mm Check, and if necessary adjust, the front wheel alignment

(Section 28).

mm Road test (Section 29).

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or12 months (continued)

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes first In addition to the 12 000 miles (20 000 km) Section, carry out thefollowing:

mm Drain the cooling system and flush it, then refill with new

antifreeze solution (Section 32).

mm Renew the oil filler cap (Section 33).

mm Renew the distributor contact points (Section 34).

mm Renew the alternator drivebelt (Section 14).

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes firstIn addition to the 18 000 miles (30 000 km) Section, carry out thefollowing:

mm Renew the brake fluid and all the fluid seals and flexible hoses

in the brake hydraulic circuit (Section 30).

Maintenance - component location 1•3

1

View of the front underside of a typicalvehicle

1 Steering gear

2 Tie-rod end

3 Front suspension lower arm

4 Brake pad wear sensor wiring

5 Disc/caliper

6 Engine/transmission oil drain plug

7 Front subframe mounting

8 Oil filter

9 Front lashing eye

10 Anti-roll bar

11 Brake flexible hydraulic hoses

12 Driveshaft

13 Front subframe

14 Front exhaust system

15 Gearchange rods

16 Gearchange remote control housing

Under bonnet view of MG Metro 1300

1 Battery

2 Starter motor solenoid

3 Anti run-on valve

4 Brake hydraulic reservoir

5 Carburettor damper cap

6 Air cleaner vacuum motor

7 Expansion tank filler cap

8 Windscreen washer reservoir

9 Oil filler cap

10 Engine oil dipstick

1 This Chapter is designed to help the homemechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,economy, long life and peak performance.2 The Chapter contains a mastermaintenance schedule, followed by Sectionsdealing specifically with each task in theschedule. Visual checks, adjustments,component renewal and other helpful itemsare included. Refer to the accompanyingillustrations of the engine compartment andthe underside of the vehicle for the locationsof the various components.3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance withthe mileage/time maintenance schedule andthe following Sections will provide a plannedmaintenance programme, which should resultin a long and reliable service life. This is acomprehensive plan, so maintaining someitems but not others at the specified serviceintervals, will not produce the same results.4 As you service your vehicle, you will discoverthat many of the procedures can - and should -be grouped together, because of the particularprocedure being performed, or because of theclose proximity of two otherwise-unrelatedcomponents to one another. For example, ifthe vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaustcan be inspected at the same time as thesuspension and steering components.5 The first step in this maintenanceprogramme is to prepare yourself before theactual work begins. Read through all the

Sections relevant to the work to be carriedout, then make a list and gather all the partsand tools required. If a problem isencountered, seek advice from a partsspecialist, or a dealer service department.

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, theroutine maintenance schedule is followedclosely, and frequent checks are made of fluidlevels and high-wear items, as suggestedthroughout this manual, the engine will bekept in relatively good running condition, andthe need for additional work will be minimised.2 It is possible that there will be times whenthe engine is running poorly due to the lack ofregular maintenance. This is even more likelyif a used vehicle, which has not receivedregular and frequent maintenance checks, ispurchased. In such cases, additional workmay need to be carried out, outside of theregular maintenance intervals.3 If engine wear is suspected, a compressiontest (refer to Chapter 2A, Section 1) willprovide valuable information regarding theoverall performance of the main internalcomponents. Such a test can be used as abasis to decide the extent of the work to becarried out. If, for example, a compressiontest indicates serious internal engine wear,conventional maintenance as described in thisChapter will not greatly improve theperformance of the engine, and may prove awaste of time and money, unless extensive

overhaul work (Chapter 2B) is carried out first.4 The following series of operations are thosemost often required to improve theperformance of a generally poor-runningengine:

Primary operationsa) Clean, inspect and test the battery

(Section 10).b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

“Weekly Checks”).c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 14).d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 6).e) Inspect the distributor components and

HT leads - as applicable (Chapter 5).f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary(Section 5).

g) Renew the fuel filter, if fitted (Section 7).h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 12).i) Check the engine idle speed and mixture

settings - as applicable (Section 15).5 If the above operations do not prove fullyeffective, carry out the following secondaryoperations:

Secondary operationsa) Check the charging system (Chapter 5).b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4).d) Renew the distributor cap, points,

condenser and rotor arm - as applicable(Chapter 5).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads - asapplicable (Chapter 5).

2 Intensive maintenance

1 Introduction

1•4 Maintenance proceduresView of the rear underside of a typical

vehicle

1 Rear lashing eye

2 Rear Hydragas unit

3 Handbrake cable

4 Rear subframe

5 Fuel tank

6 Intermediate silencer

7 Exhaust mounting

8 Brake rigid hydraulic line

9 Fuel supply pipe

10 Charging valve for Hydragas units

11 Rear suspension radius arm

12 Rear exhaust system and silencer

Maintenance procedures

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the mostimportant preventative maintenanceprocedures that can be undertaken by the DIYowner. As engine oil ages, it becomes dilutedand contaminated, which leads to prematureengine wear.2 Before starting this procedure, gather all thenecessary tools and materials. It is a good ideato renew the drain plug washer each time youreplace the engine oil. Also make sure that youhave plenty of clean rags and newspapershandy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engineoil should be warm, as it will drain better, andmore built-up sludge will be removed with it.Take care, however, not to touch the exhaustor any other hot parts of the engine whenworking under the vehicle. To avoid anypossibility of scalding, and to protect yourselffrom possible skin irritants and other harmfulcontaminants in used engine oils, it isadvisable to wear gloves when carrying outthis work. Access to the underside of thevehicle will be greatly improved if it can beraised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jackedup and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking

and vehicle support”). Whichever method ischosen, make sure that the vehicle remainslevel, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug isat the lowest point.3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.Position the draining container under the drainplug, then remove the plug completely. Ifpossible, try to keep the plug pressed into thesump while unscrewing it by hand the lastcouple of turns. Recover the sealing washerfrom the drain plug (see illustrations).

4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,noting that it may be necessary to repositionthe container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off thedrain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealingwasher for condition and renew it ifnecessary. Clean the area around the drainplug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten theplug to the specified torque.6 Move the container into position under theoil filter. It is located at the front of the engineat the side of the block.

Manual gearbox models7 On these models the filter is a cartridgetype. Using an oil filter removal tool ifnecessary, slacken the filter initially, thenunscrew it by hand the rest of the way (seeillustrations). Discard the old filter. Clean theoil filter head.8 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil tothe sealing ring on the new filter, then screw itinto position on the engine. Tighten the filterfirmly by hand only - do not use any tools.

Automatic transmission models9 Automatic models use a canister with aninternal disposable element (see illustration).With these models unscrew the centre bolt onthe canister. Empty the oil from the canisterinto the container and discard the filter. Cleanthe area around the filter mounting.10 Insert the new element in the bowl. Usinga new sealing ring, locate the bowl centrallyand tighten the centre bolt, to the specifiedtorque.

All models11 Remove the old oil and all tools fromunder the car, then lower the car to theground (if applicable).12 Remove the oil filler cap. Fill the engine,using the correct grade and type of oil (see

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

Maintenance procedures 1•5

1

3.7a The oil filter cartridge

3.9 Oil filter components on automatic transmission models

1 Gasket2 Head3 Sealing ring4 Element

5 Circlip6 Pressure plate7 Seal

8 Washer9 Spring10 Bowl

11 Seal12 Collar13 Centre bolt

3.7b Removing the oil filter cartridge

3.3b Location of engine/transmission oildrain plug - automatic transmission

3.3a Location of engine/gearbox oil drainplug - manual gearbox

6000 Miles (10 000 Km) / 6 Months

As the plug releases from thethreads, move it awaysharply so the stream of oilissuing from the sump runs

into the container, not up your sleeve!

Non-Turbo models1 Unscrew and remove the two wing nuts onthe top of the air cleaner (see illustration).2 Withdraw the air cleaner, at the same timedisconnecting it from the hot air shroud tube.3 To remove the element, use a wide-bladedscrewdriver to separate the lid from the body,then lift out the element and discard it (seeillustration).4 Clean the interior of the air cleaner with afuel-moistened cloth, and wipe dry.5 Install the new element and snap the coveronto the body.6 Check that the seal is in good condition,then refit the air cleaner and connect it to thehot air shroud tube. Insert and tighten the twowing nuts.

MG Turbo models7 The air cleaner on MG Turbo models isremote from the carburettor, being mountedon the left-hand side of the enginecompartment.8 To renew the air cleaner element, release

the spring clips and take off the cover. Extractthe element, wipe clean the inside of thehousing and fit a new element. Refit the coverand secure with the spring clips.

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs isvital for the correct running and efficiency ofthe engine. It is essential that the plugs fittedare appropriate for the engine (as specified atthe end of this Chapter). If this type is usedand the engine is in good condition, the sparkplugs should not need attention betweenscheduled replacement intervals. Spark plugcleaning is rarely necessary, and should notbe attempted unless specialised equipment isavailable, as damage can easily be caused tothe firing ends.2 Check each plug one at a time. This willensure that the plug leads are replaced in theircorrect location (see illustration).3 Pull the lead from each plug by gripping theend fitting, not the lead, otherwise the leadconnection may be fractured. Check the leadfor damage.

4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plugspanner, a box spanner or a deep socket andextension bar. Keep the socket aligned with thespark plug - if it is forcibly moved to one side,the ceramic insulator may be broken off. Aseach plug is removed, examine it as follows.5 Examination of the spark plugs will give agood indication of the condition of the engine.If the insulator nose of the spark plug is cleanand white, with no deposits, this is indicativeof a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plugtransfers heat away from the electrode slowly,a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).6 If the tip and insulator nose are coveredwith hard black-looking deposits, then this isindicative that the mixture is too rich. Shouldthe plug be black and oily, then it is likely thatthe engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixturebeing too rich.7 If the insulator nose is covered with light tanto greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture iscorrect and it is likely that the engine is ingood condition.8 The spark plug electrode gap is ofconsiderable importance as, if it is too large ortoo small, the size of the spark and itsefficiency will be seriously impaired. The gapshould be set to the value given in theSpecifications at the end of this Chapter.

6 Spark plug renewal

5 Air filter element renewal

“Lubricants, fluids and capacities”). An oil canspout or funnel may help to reduce spillage.Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first,then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to thesump. Continue adding oil a small quantity ata time until the level is up to the lower mark onthe dipstick. Adding 0.5 litre at a time, bringthe level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.Insert the dipstick and refit the filler cap.13 Start the engine and run it for a fewminutes; check for leaks around the oil filterseal and the sump drain plug. Note that theremay be a delay of a few seconds before the oilpressure warning light goes out when theengine is first started, as the oil circulatesthrough the engine oil galleries and the new oilfilter before the pressure builds up.14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few

minutes for the oil to settle in the sump oncemore. With the new oil circulated and the filtercompletely full, recheck the level on thedipstick, and add more oil as necessary.15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, withreference to “General repair procedures” inthe reference Sections of this manual.

1 To check, select “N” and start the engine.Move the lever to “R” and check that the reverseis engaged, then slowly move the lever back to“N” - the gear should disengage when the leverreaches the “N” position, or slightly before.Repeat the check but this time select “1”.

2 When carrying out the adjustment check, itmay be found that either first or reverse geardoes not disengage when the selector leverreaches the “N” position.3 If “R” remains engaged in position “N”,reduce the gap at the end of the selector levertravel by 0.01 in (0.25 mm). Refer to Chapter7B, for further details.4 If “1” remains engaged in position “N”increase the gap at the end of the selectorlever travel by 0.01 in (0.25 mm).5 Recheck the adjustment and repeatparagraph 3 or 4 as necessary. 6 Check that the starter motor can beoperated only in positions “P” and “N”. Adjustthe starter inhibitor switch if necessary asdescribed in Chapter 7B.

4 Automatic transmissionselector check

1•6 Maintenance procedures

6.2 HT lead connections and distributororientation

5.3 Lifting out the air cleaner element5.1 Removing the air cleaner lid

12 000 Miles (20 000 Km) / 12 Months

9 To set the gap, measure it with a feelerblade or wire gauge and then bend open, orclose, the outer plug electrode until thecorrect gap is achieved (see illustrations).The centre electrode should never be bent, asthis will crack the insulator and cause plugfailure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades,the gap is correct when the appropriate-sizeblade is a firm sliding fit.10 Special spark plug electrode gapadjusting tools are available from most motoraccessory shops, or from some spark plugmanufacturers.11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check thatthe threaded connector sleeves are tight, andthat the plug exterior surfaces and threads areclean.

12 Remove the rubber hose, and tighten theplug to the specified torque using the sparkplug socket and a torque wrench. 13 Repeat the process with the remainingspark plugs.

Removal1 The fuel filter is located in the fuel linebetween the pressure regulator and thecarburettor. It should be renewed if filterblockage is suspected.2 Take precautions against fire whenremoving the filter, and do not smoke.Residual pressure in the fuel lines may lead tosignificant fuel spillage when the filter isremoved.3 Release the hose clamps on each side ofthe filter and carefully pull off the hoses.Inspect the hoses and clips; renew these too,if necessary. Mop up any fuel spilt.

Refitting4 Fit the new filter. A directional arrow or an“OUT” marking should point towards thecarburettor; an “IN” marking should face thepressure regulator. Without any markings thefilter may be fitted either way round.5 Secure the new filter with the hose clamps.When all spilt fuel has been removed from theengine bay, start the engine and check forleaks.

The SU HIF carburettor requires anunrestricted flow of air to the float chamberthrough the vent pipe. If the pipe is allowed tobecome blocked, kinked or even incorrectlyrouted the mixture will be weakened, causingpoor performance and difficult starting. On 1.0litre models fitted with “economy” engines, asmall air filter is fitted to the vent to improve

carburettor calibration. This filter must berenewed at the specified interval, or themixture will become excessively weak duringpart-load running. The filter must never beomitted or the fuel consumption will increase.

Check all crankcase ventilation and vacuumhoses for damage and leakage (refer toChapter 2A). Where necessary remove thehoses and clear them of any blockage.

Caution: Before carrying out any work onthe vehicle battery, read through theprecautions given in ‘Safety first!’ at thebeginning of this manual.1 The battery is located on the left-hand sideof the engine compartment. The exterior ofthe battery should be inspected periodicallyfor damage such as a cracked case or cover.2 Check the tightness of the battery cableclamps to ensure good electrical connections,and check the entire length of each cable forcracks and frayed conductors. Check thepositive cable between the battery and thestarter motor.3 If corrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits)is evident, remove the cables from the batteryterminals, clean them with a small wire brush,then refit them.

4 Make sure that the battery retaining clampis secure.5 Corrosion on the retaining clamp and thebattery terminals can be removed with asolution of water and baking soda.Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plainwater.

10 Battery terminal check

9 Crankcase ventilation systemcheck

8 Carburettor vent filter renewal

7 Fuel filter renewal (Turbo only)

12 000 Miles (20 000 Km) 1•7

1

6.9c . . . and adjusting the gap using aspecial tool

6.9b Measuring the spark plug gap with awire gauge . . .

6.9a Measuring the spark plug gap with afeeler blade

It is very often difficult to insert sparkplugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid thispossibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inchinternal diameter rubber hose over theend of the spark plug. The flexible hoseacts as a universal joint to help alignthe plug with the plug hole. Should theplug begin to cross-thread, the hosewill slip on the spark plug, whichprevents damage to the cylinder head.

Warning: Before carrying outthe following operation, refer tothe precautions given in ‘Safetyfirst!’ at the beginning of this

manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrolis a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,and the precautions necessary whenhandling it cannot be overstressed.

Corrosion can be kept to aminimum by applying a layerof petroleum jelly to theclamps and terminals after

they are reconnected.

6 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged bycorrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted.7 Periodically (approximately every threemonths), check the charge condition of thebattery as described in Chapter 5.8 Further information on the battery, chargingand jump starting can be found in Chapter 5and in the preliminary sections of this manual.

1 The antifreeze should always be maintainedat the specified concentration. This isnecessary not only to maintain the antifreezeand coolant properties, but also to preventcorrosion that would otherwise occur as thecorrosion inhibitors become progressivelyless effective.2 The check should be made with the enginecold, and it will be necessary to obtain anantifreeze tester from a car accessory shop.3 Slowly unscrew the cap from the top of thecoolant expansion tank, then draw coolant intothe tester. Check the concentration of theantifreeze according to the manufacturer’sinstructions. The most common testerconsists of three coloured balls of varyingdensity - a high concentration will cause allthree balls to float whereas a lowconcentration may only cause one ball to float.4 If the concentration is incorrect, slightadjustments may be made by drawing some ofthe coolant out of the expansion tank andreplacing it with undiluted antifreeze. If theconcentration is excessively out, it will benecessary to completely drain the system andrenew the solution with reference to Section 32.5 Tighten the cap onto the expansion tank oncompletion.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oilleaks. Pay particular attention to the areasaround the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oilfilter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,over a period of time, some very slight seepagefrom these areas is to be expected - what youare really looking for is any indication of aserious leak. Should a leak be found, renew theoffending gasket or oil seal by referring to theappropriate Chapters in this manual.2 Also check the security and condition of allthe engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensurethat all cable-ties or securing clips are in placeand in good condition. Clips that are brokenor missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,pipes or wiring, which could cause moreserious problems in the future.3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heaterhoses along their entire length. Renew any hosethat is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Crackswill show up better if the hose is squeezed. Payclose attention to the hose clips that secure the

hoses to the cooling system components. Hoseclips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting incooling system leaks.4 Inspect all the cooling system components(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in thecooling system will usually show up as whiteor rust-coloured deposits on the areaadjoining the leak. Where any problems of thisnature are found on system components,renew the component or gasket withreference to Chapter 3.5 Check that the pressure cap on theexpansion tank is fully tightened and showsno sign of coolant leakage.6 With the car raised, inspect the petrol tankand filler neck for punctures, cracks and otherdamage. The connection between the fillerneck and tank is especially critical.Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connectinghose will leak due to loose retaining clamps ordeteriorated rubber.7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metalfuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.Check for loose connections, deterioratedhoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Payparticular attention to the vent pipes andhoses, which often loop up around the fillerneck and can become blocked or crimped.Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,carefully inspecting them all the way. Renewdamaged sections as necessary.8 From within the engine compartment,check the security of all fuel hose attachmentsand pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hosesand vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing anddeterioration.9 If applicable, check the clutch hydrauliccircuit for leaks or damage.

Note: Some models are fitted withbreakerless, electronic distributors, whichrequire minimal maintenance.1 Due to its location, it is recommended thatthe distributor is removed to carry out thiswork (refer to Chapter 5).2 Clamp the distributor lightly in a vice andremove the distributor cap and rotor arm.

Mechanical distributor3 Open the points and examine the conditionof their faces. If they are blackened or pitted,remove them as described in Section 34 andclean them using emery tape or a grindstone.On the Ducellier distributor, take care tomaintain the contour of the points. If thepoints are worn excessively, renew them.Refer to Section 34 for further details.4 If the contact points do not show anyexcessive pitting, turn the drive dog until theheel of the movable contact is on the highpoint of one of the cam lobes.5 Using a feeler blade, check that the gapbetween the two points is as given in theSpecifications. If not, loosen the fixed contactscrew and reposition the fixed contact untilthe feeler blade is a firm sliding fit between the

two points. Use a screwdriver in the specialnotch to make a fine adjustment, and whencorrect, tighten the fixed contact screw (seeillustration).6 Apply one drop of engine oil to the felt padin the cam recess, then refit the rotor arm.7 Wipe clean the ignition coil tower and thedistributor cap, and make sure that thecarbon brush moves freely against the tensionof the spring. Clean the metal segments in thedistributor cap, but do not scrape away anymetal otherwise the HT spark at the sparkplugs will be reduced.8 Refit the distributor as described inChapter 5. Use a dwell meter to check thedwell angle of the points. This angle shouldbe within the parameters given in theSpecifications. Reduce the contacts pointsgap to increase the dwell angle, or increasethe gap to reduce it. Refer to Section 16 toadjust the timing.

Electronic distributor9 Thoroughly clean the distributor cap insideand out with a dry lint-free rag. Examine the fourHT lead segments inside the cap. If thesegments appear badly burned or pitted, renewthe cap. Make sure that the carbon brush in thecentre of the cap is free to move and that itprotrudes by approximately 0.1 in (3 mm) fromits holder.10 Lift off the rotor arm. On pre-1985models, remove the plastic anti-flash shieldand carefully apply two drops of engine oil tothe felt pad in the centre of the cam spindle.Also lubricate the centrifugal advancemechanism by applying two drops of oilthrough the square hole in the baseplate. On1985 and later models, lubricate the bearing in

13 Ignition check andadjustment

12 Hose and fluid leak check

11 Antifreeze (coolant)concentration check

1•8 12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)

13.10 Breakerless distributor lubricationpoints (arrowed)

13.5 Adjusting the contact breaker pointsgap (Lucas)

the upper housing with a little engine oil, andlubricate the centrifugal advance mechanismby prising the plastic plug from the lowerhousing (see illustration). Wipe away anyexcess oil and refit the anti-flash shield (wherefitted), rotor arm and distributor cap. 11 Refit the distributor as described inChapter 5 and adjust the ignition timing asdescribed in Section 16.

1 The drivebelt is used to drive the waterpump and alternator from the crankshaftpulley.2 Examine the drivebelt for cracks, splitting,fraying, glazing (shiny patches) or any otherdamage. Renew the belt at service interval orif any damage is found.3 To renew, loosen the alternator pivot boltsand adjustment nut. Swivel the alternatortowards the cylinder block. Remove the belt.4 Fit new belt over the pulleys and lever thealternator away from the block until thespecified tension is achieved (seeillustration). Lever the alternator at the driveend to avoid damage to end cover.5 Tighten the adjustment and pivot bolt nuts.6 Run the engine at 1000 rpm for fiveminutes, then recheck and adjust asnecessary.

Note: Accurate adjustment of the carburettoris only possible after adjustment of the ignitiontiming, contact breaker gap, and spark pluggaps. Incorrect valve clearances can alsoaffect carburettor adjustment. Note: Depending on operating territory andproduction date, the idle mixture adjustmentscrew may be “tamperproofed” by means of aplastic cap or seal, which must be destroyedin order to make an adjustment. The object offitting the seal is to discourage (and to detect)adjustment by unqualified or unskilledoperators. If you wish to remove atamperproof seal, satisfy yourself that you arenot breaking any local or national anti-pollution laws by so doing. Fit a new seal on

completion where this is required by law.1 Connect a tachometer to the engine inaccordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions. Remove the air cleaner.2 Unscrew the piston damper and check thatthe oil level is level with the top of the hollowpiston rod (see illustration). If not, top-upwith clean engine oil. Refit the piston damper.On MG Turbo models there is a securingclamp that must be released first and securedafterwards. Failure to secure the damper capmay result in dangerous fuel leakage.3 Check that the choke control cable has0.08 in (2 mm) free play. 4 If available, connect an exhaust gasanalyser to the engine in accordance with themanufacturer’s instructions.5 Run the engine at a fast idling speed until itreaches its normal operating temperature,indicated by the electric cooling fan operating.Continue to run the engine for a further fiveminutes.

6 Increase the engine speed to 2500 rpm for30 seconds and repeat this at three-minuteintervals during the adjustment procedure.This will ensure that any excess fuel is clearedfrom the inlet manifold.7 Allow the engine to idle and check the idlingspeed against that given in the Specifications.If necessary, turn the throttle adjustmentscrew on top of the carburettor clockwise toincrease the speed or anti-clockwise todecrease the speed (see illustration).8 To adjust the idling mixture, slowly turn themixture screw, located on the right-hand sideof the carburettor, clockwise (to enrich) oranti-clockwise (to weaken), until a point isreached where the engine speed is fastest(see illustration).9 Slowly turn the mixture screwanti-clockwise until the engine speed juststarts to drop.10 Turn the throttle adjustment screw toregain the specified idling speed.

15 Engine idle and fast idleadjustment

14 Drivebelt check (andrenewal)

12 000 Miles (20 000 Km) 1•9

1

15.7 Adjusting the idling speed 15.8 Adjusting the mixture

14.4 Checking the drivebelt tension

15.2 Carburettor adjustments

1 Piston damper oil level2 Fast idle screw3 Throttle adjusting screw4 Mixture screw5 Fast idle cam position for

adjustment

11 If an exhaust gas analyser is being used,adjust the mixture screw to obtain thespecified idling exhaust gas content, thenreadjust the throttle screw.12 Pull out the choke control knob until thearrow on the fast idle cam is aligned with thefast idle adjusting screw, then check that thefast idle speed is as given in theSpecifications. If not, turn the fast idleadjusting screw as necessary.13 Lubricate the throttle and choke controlsand check connections.14 Return the choke control knob, andswitch off the engine.15 Disconnect the tachometer and exhaustgas analyser as necessary.16 Refit the air cleaner with reference toChapter 4.

Mechanical ignition1 For the home mechanic, there is only onemethod that may be used to time the ignition -the stroboscopic timing light method.However, for initial setting-up purposes (i.e.after a major overhaul, or if the timing has beenotherwise completely lost), a basic static timingmethod should be used to get the enginestarted. This involves the use of a test bulb.Once the engine is running, the timing shouldthen be correctly set using the stroboscopictiming light method. A further method,employing the light emitting diode (LED) sensorbracket and timing disc located on the bottomof the timing cover, may be used, but theequipment for use with this system will notnormally be available to the home mechanic.

Test bulb method2 Remove the No 1 spark plug (crankshaftpulley end) and place the thumb over theaperture.3 Turn the engine in the normal runningdirection (clockwise from crankshaft pulleyend) until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder,indicating that the piston is beginning itscompression stroke. Use a spanner on thecrankshaft pulley bolt, or engage top gear andpull the car forwards on manual gearboxmodels.4 Continue turning the engine until the V-notchin the crankshaft pulley is exactly in line withthe timing cover pointer representing 4° BTDC .Note that the large pointer indicates top deadcentre (TDC) and the remaining pointer peaksare in increments of 4° BTDC.5 Remove the distributor cap and check thatthe rotor arm is pointing in the direction of theNo 1 terminal of the cap.6 Connect a 12 volt test bulb between theend of the moving contact spring and anearthing point on the engine.7 Loosen the distributor clamp plate bolt.8 Switch on the ignition. If the bulb is alreadylit, turn the distributor body slightlyanti-clockwise until the bulb goes out.

9 Turn the distributor body clockwise until thebulb just lights up, indicating that the pointshave just opened. Tighten the clamp bolt.10 Switch off the ignition and remove the testbulb.11 Refit the distributor cap and No 1 sparkplug and HT lead. Once the engine has beenstarted, check the timing as follows andadjust as necessary.

Stroboscopic timing light method12 Disconnect and plug the vacuum pipe atthe distributor.13 Wipe clean the crankshaft pulley notchand timing cover pointers. If necessary, usewhite paint or chalk to highlight the marks.14 Connect the timing light to the engine inaccordance with the manufacturer’sinstructions (usually between No 1 spark plugand HT lead).15 Connect a tachometer to the engine inaccordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.16 Start the engine and run it at the speedgiven in the Specifications, in Chapter 5, forstroboscopic timing.17 Point the timing light at the timing marksand they should appear to be stationary withthe crank pulley notch in alignment with theappropriate mark: refer to the Specifications forthe ignition timing applicable to the enginebeing worked on. Note that the large pointerindicates top dead centre (TDC) and theremaining pointer peaks are in increments of 4°BTDC (see illustration).18 If adjustment is necessary (i.e. the pulleynotch does not line up with the appropriatemark), loosen the distributor clamp plate boltand turn the body clockwise to advance andanti-clockwise to retard the ignition timing.Tighten the bolt when the setting is correct.19 Gradually increase the engine speed whilestill pointing the timing light at the timingmarks. The pulley notch should appear tomove anti-clockwise proving that thecentrifugal weights are operating correctly. Ifthe ignition advance is not in accordance withthe information given in the Specifications,Chapter 5, the distributor should be replacedas described in the same Chapter.20 Switch off the engine and remove thetiming light and tachometer. 21 Reconnect the vacuum pipe to thedistributor. Disconnect the pipe from thecarburettor and remove the distributor cap.Suck on the end of the pipe and check thatthe baseplate (Lucas) or pivot link (Ducellier)move to advance the points. If not, thevacuum unit may be faulty.22 Refit the distributor cap and vacuum pipe.

Electronic ignition system

Static timing23 The only method of electronic ignitiontiming for road use, is using a stroboscopiclamp. However, for initial setting-up purposes(e.g. after engine overhaul, or if the timing hasbeen completely lost) the following procedurewill enable the engine to be run in order toundertake dynamic timing.

24 Pull off the HT lead and remove No 1spark plug (nearest the crankshaft pulley).25 Place a finger over the plug hole and turnthe engine in the normal direction of rotation(clockwise from the crankshaft pulley end)until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder. Thisindicates that the piston is beginning itscompression stroke. The engine can beturned with a socket and bar on thecrankshaft pulley bolt.26 Continue turning the engine until thenotch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned withthe TDC pointer on the timing scale.27 Remove the distributor cap and checkthat the rotor arm is pointing towards the No 1spark plug HT lead segment in the cap.28 On pre-1985 models, lift off the rotor armand anti-flash shield and observe the positionof the reluctor in relation to the pick-up coil.One of the teeth on the reluctor should bealigned with, or very near to the small limb, ofthe pick-up coil. Slacken the distributor clampretaining bolt and turn the distributor bodyuntil the reluctor tooth and pick-up limb aredirectly in line. Using feeler blades, preferablyof plastic or brass, measure the air gapbetween the reluctor tooth and pick-upassembly (see illustration). If the measureddimension is outside the tolerance given in theSpecifications, slacken the adjusting nuts onthe pick-up assembly and reposition the unitas necessary. Tighten the distributor clampand refit the anti-flash shield and the rotor arm.29 On 1985-on models, if the rotor arm is notpointing towards the No 1 spark plug HT lead

16 Ignition timing check andadjustment

1•10 12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)

16.17 Typical timing scale. Moving mark ison the crankshaft pulley

16.28 Reluctor air gap adjustment1 Adjusting nuts2 Pick-up coil3 Pick-up limb

4 Reluctor toothA Specified gap

segment in the cap, slacken the distributorclamp bolt and turn the distributor body asnecessary, then tighten the bolt. It is notpossible to align the reluctor arms as they aretotally enclosed within the distributor.30 Refit the distributor cap, No 1 spark plugand the HT lead.31 It should now be possible to start and runthe engine, enabling the ignition timing to bechecked accurately using a stroboscopictiming light, as described earlier in thissection.

1 With the vehicle raised and securelysupported on stands, turn the steering ontofull lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.Inspect the condition of the outer constantvelocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezingthe gaiters to open out the folds. Check forsigns of cracking, splits or deterioration of therubber, which may allow the grease toescape, and lead to water and grit entry intothe joint. Also check the security andcondition of the retaining clips. Repeat thesechecks on the inner CV joints. If any damageor deterioration is found, the gaiters should berenewed as described in Chapter 8.2 At the same time, check the generalcondition of the CV joints themselves by firstholding the driveshaft and attempting torotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holdingthe inner joint and attempting to rotate thedriveshaft. Any appreciable movementindicates wear in the joints, wear in thedriveshaft splines, or possibly a loosedriveshaft retaining nut.

1 To adjust the return stop, pull the releaselever out against the tension of the slavecylinder return spring until all the freemovement is taken up.2 Using a feeler blade, check that theclearance between the return stop and therelease lever is as given in the Specifications(see illustrations). If not, loosen the locknutand reposition the return stop screw asnecessary, then tighten the locknut. Makesure that the lever is held against the springtension during the adjustment.3 To adjust the throw-out stop, unscrew thelocknut on the end of the release plunger tothe limit of the thread, then unscrew thethrow-out stop to the locknut.4 Have an assistant fully depress the clutchpedal and keep it depressed. Screw in thethrow out stop until it contacts the housing. 5 With the clutch pedal released, screw in thestop one further flat (60°), and tighten thelocknut while holding the stop stationary.

1 Position the car over an inspection pit or oncar ramps. Alternatively raise the front andrear of the car and support on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

2 Examine the exhaust system over its entirelength checking for any damaged, broken ormissing insulators or mountings, the securityof the pipe retaining clamps, and thecondition of the system with regard to rustand corrosion.3 Lower the vehicle to the ground oncompletion.

1 Work around the vehicle, clean and thenlubricate the hinges of the doors, bonnet andtailgate with a light machine oil.2 Lubricate the bonnet release mechanism,hinges and safety locks with a smear ofpetroleum jelly.3 Check carefully the security and operationof all hinges, latches and locks, adjustingthem where required. Check the operation ofthe central locking system (if fitted).4 Check the condition and operation of thetailgate struts, renewing them if either isleaking or no longer able to support thetailgate securely when raised.5 On completion check the operation of alldoor locks, tailgate/boot locks and the fuelfiller flap. Check that the child safety catcheson the rear doors operate correctly.

1 Working on each seat belt in turn, carefullyexamine the seat belt webbing for cuts or anysigns of serious fraying or deterioration. Pullthe belt all the way out, and examine the fullextent of the webbing.2 Fasten and unfasten the belt, ensuring thatthe locking mechanism holds securely andreleases properly when intended. Check alsothat the retracting mechanism operatescorrectly when the belt is released.3 Check the security of all seat beltmountings and attachments that areaccessible, without removing any trim or othercomponents, from inside the vehicle.

21 Seat belt check

20 Hinge and lock lubrication

19 Exhaust system check

18 Clutch - adjustment andmaintenance

17 Driveshaft rubber gaitercheck

12 000 Miles (20 000 Km) 1•11

1

18.2b Checking the clutch return stopclearance

18.2a Clutch adjustments

1 Throw-out stop2 Locknut3 Return stop4 Locknut‘A’ Indicates return stop clearance

Warning: If the engine has beenrunning take care not to touchthe exhaust system, especiallythe front section, as it may stillbe hot.

1 Check the headlights for damage that mayoccur as stone chipping.2 The headlamp alignment should bechecked every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12months, whichever occurs first.3 It is recommended that the alignment iscarried out by a Rover dealer or specialist,using modern beam setting equipment.However, in an emergency, the followingprocedure will provide an acceptable lightpattern.4 Position the car on a level surface with theride heights correct, the car normally laden andthe tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10metres (33 feet) in front of, and at right-anglesto, a wall or garage door.5 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door atheadlamp centre height. Draw a vertical linecorresponding to the centre line of the car,then measure off a point either side of this, onthe horizontal line, corresponding with theheadlamp centres.6 Switch on the main beam and check thatthe areas of maximum illumination coincidewith the headlamp centre marks on the wall. Ifnot, turn the plastic knobs located on the rearof the headlamps turn both knobs to raise orlower the beam, and one knob (either will do)to move the beam horizontally.

1 Raise the front and rear of the car andsecurely support on axle stands (see “Jackingand vehicle support”). Remove all wheels.2 Thoroughly examine all brake lines andbrake flexible hoses, including the servo hose,for security and damage. To check the flexiblehoses, bend them slightly in order to show upany cracking of the rubber.3 Check the complete braking system for anysigns of brake fluid leakage.4 Where necessary carry out repairs to thebraking system with reference to Chapter 9.

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack upthe front of the car and support it securely onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehiclesupport”). Remove the front roadwheels.2 For a quick check, the thickness of frictionmaterial remaining on each brake pad can bemeasured through the aperture in the caliperbody. If any pad’s friction material is worn tothe specified thickness or less, all four padson that axle must be renewed as a set.

3 For a comprehensive check, the brake padsshould be removed and cleaned. Theoperation of the caliper can then also bechecked, and the condition of the brake discscan be fully examined on both sides. Furtherdetails can be found in Chapter 9.4 The disc pad warning indicators shouldalso be checked. To do this, first locate thetwin terminal black plastic sockets located onthe wiring harness over each wheel arch.Switch on the ignition and connect a bridgingwire between the terminals of one socket; thepad wear warning light should be illuminatedon the instrument panel. If not, either thewarning bulb is blown or there is a fault in thecircuit. Repeat the check on the remainingfront brake. On some models the pad wearsystem is only fitted to the right-hand sideinner pad.5 To check the rear brake linings, the rearwheels and drums need to be removed. Forfull details including adjustment procedures,refer to Chapter 9.6 On completion refit the wheels and lowerthe car to the ground.

1 Raise the front and rear of the car, andsecurely support it on axle stands (see“Jacking and vehicle support”).2 The front and rear suspension should belubricated with a grease gun. The front greasenipple is located on the upper suspension armat the pivot end. The rear nipple is located onthe outer end of the radius arm pivot. Alwaysclean the nipple before using the grease gun.3 Check all the suspension joints andmountings for security and damage.4 Check the steering gaiters for splitting, andexamine the steering balljoints for wear.Check the steering gear for security.5 Visually inspect all balljoint dust covers andthe steering rack gaiters for splits, chafing ordeterioration. Any wear of these componentswill cause loss of lubricant, together with dirtand water entry, resulting in rapiddeterioration of the balljoints or steering gear.6 The front and rear suspension should belubricated with a grease gun. The front greasenipple is located on the upper suspension armat the pivot end. The rear nipple is located onthe outer end of the radius arm pivot. Alwaysclean the nipple before using the grease gun.7 Grasp each front roadwheel in turn at the12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try torock it. Very slight free play may be felt, but ifthe movement is appreciable, furtherinvestigation is necessary to determine thesource. Continue rocking the wheel while anassistant depresses the footbrake. If themovement is now eliminated or significantlyreduced, it is likely that the hub bearings areat fault. If the free play is still evident with thefootbrake depressed, then there is wear in thesuspension joints or mountings.

8 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.Any movement felt now may again be causedby wear in the hub bearings or the steeringtrack-rod balljoints. If the inner or outerballjoint is worn, the visual movement will beobvious.9 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, checkfor wear in the suspension mounting bushesby levering between the relevant suspensioncomponent and its attachment point. Somemovement is to be expected as the mountingsare made of rubber, but excessive wearshould be obvious. Also check the conditionof any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,cracks or contamination of the rubber.10 Check for any signs of fluid leakagearound the front shock absorbers. Should anyfluid be noticed, the shock absorber isdefective internally, and should be renewed.Note: Shock absorbers should always berenewed in pairs on the same axle.11 Lower the car to the ground.12 The efficiency of the shock absorbers maybe checked by depressing each corner of thecar in turn. If the shock absorbers are in goodcondition, the body will rise and then settle inits normal position. If it continues to rise andfall, the shock absorber is probably suspect.Examine also the shock absorber upper andlower mountings for any signs of wear.13 With the car standing on its wheels, havean assistant turn the steering wheel back andforth about an eighth of a turn each way.There should be very little, if any, lostmovement between the steering wheel androadwheels. If this is not the case, closelyobserve the joints and mountings previouslydescribed, but in addition, check the steeringcolumn universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Note: Checking the pressure of this units,along with repressurising and depressurisingmust be done by either a Rover dealer orspecialist with the necessary equipmentneeded.1 A fault in a Hydragas unit can bedetermined by checking the car ride height asshown. If the measurements are less thanthose specified (refer to Chapter 10), firstcheck the units and rear interconnecting pipefor signs of leakage, which will appear as aslight residue left after the fluid hasevaporated.2 If the cause is a union, tighten the nut andhave the system repressurised.3 Where a leak in a Hydragas unit issuspected, clean the area around thecharging valve threads to determine whetherthe valve is the source of the leak (Talcumpowder dusted around the clean valve may behelpful in tracing a leak).

26 Hydragas units check

25 Steering, suspension andshock absorber check

24 Front brake pad and rearbrake lining check

23 Brake line and flexible hosecheck

22 Headlight beam alignmentcheck

1•12 12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)

Warning: Read the ‘Safety First’section, in the PreliminaryChapter, before proceeding.

4 If it is established that the leak is occurringround the valve threads, have the systemdepressurised, then unscrew the valve.5 Screw in a new valve, using a sealant on thethreads. Tighten the valve to the specifiedtorque (see Chapter 10). Have the systemrepressurised on completion, and check forleaks.6 If it is determined that a Hydragas unit isleaking fluid, renew the unit and again have itrepressurised.7 If no fluid leak can be found, it is possiblethat nitrogen has leaked from the unit. Tocheck this, have the unit checked with thepressure pump. The fluid pressure shouldincrease rapidly to the pressure of thenitrogen, and thereafter increase at anoticeably slower rate. If nitrogen has beenleaking, the pressure will have dropped andthe fluid pressure will increase rapidly abovethe normal nitrogen pressure.8 If it is determined that a Hydragas unit hasleaked nitrogen, renew it and have thesuspension repressurised.

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).2 Apply the handbrake four times to settle thecompensator and cable positions.3 Adjust the rear brakes as described inChapter 9.4 Apply the handbrake six notches on an oldcable, or four notches on a new cable, thencheck that both rear wheels are locked.5 To adjust the handbrake, loosen the cablelocknut using a spanner through the accessslot in the carpet behind the handbrake. Turnthe adjusting nut until the correct tension isachieved, then tighten the locknut.6 Lubricate the linkages and cables.7 Release the handbrake and check that thewheels rotate freely, then lower the car to theground.

1 Due to the special measuring equipmentnecessary to check the wheel alignmentaccurately, checking and adjustment is bestleft to a Rover dealer or similar expert. Notethat most tyre-fitting shops now possesssophisticated checking equipment. Refer toChapter 10 for more information.2 Before having the front wheel alignmentchecked, all tyre pressures should bechecked and if necessary adjusted (see“Weekly Checks”).

Instruments and electricalequipment1 Check the operation of all instruments andelectrical equipment.2 Make sure that all instruments readcorrectly, and switch on all electricalequipment in turn to check that it functionsproperly. Check the function of the heatingcontrol systems.

Steering and suspension3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,suspension, handling or road ‘feel’.4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there areno unusual vibrations or noises.5 Check that the steering feels positive, withno excessive ‘sloppiness’, or roughness, andcheck for any suspension noises whencornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain6 Check the performance of the engine,clutch (if applicable), gearbox/transmissionand driveshafts. On Turbo models, check thatthe boost pressure needle moves up to thered zone during brief acceleration.7 Listen for any unusual noises from theengine, clutch (if applicable) andgearbox/transmission.8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly

when idling, and that there is no hesitationwhen accelerating.9 On manual gearbox models, check that theclutch action is smooth and progressive, thatthe drive is taken up smoothly, and that thepedal travel is correct. Also listen for any noiseswhen the clutch pedal is depressed. Checkthat all gears can be engaged smoothly,without noise, and that the gear lever action isnot abnormally vague or ‘notchy’.10 On automatic transmission models, makesure that all gearchanges occur smoothlywithout snatching, and without an increase inengine speed between changes. Check thatall the gear positions can be selected with thevehicle at rest. If any problems are found, theyshould be referred to a Rover dealer.11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound fromthe front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is drivenslowly in a circle with the steering on full lock.Carry out this check in both directions. If aclicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in adriveshaft joint, in which case, refer toChapter 8.

Check the operation andperformance of the brakingsystem12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull toone side when braking, and that the wheelsdo not lock prematurely when braking hard.13 Check that there is no vibration throughthe steering when braking.14 Check that the handbrake operatescorrectly, without excessive movement of thelever, and that it holds the vehicle stationaryon a slope.15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit(where applicable) as follows. With the engineoff, depress the footbrake four or five times toexhaust the vacuum. Start the engine, holdingthe brake pedal depressed. As the enginestarts, there should be a noticeable ‘give’ in thebrake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow theengine to run for at least two minutes, and thenswitch it off. If the brake pedal is depressednow, it should be possible to detect a hiss fromthe servo as the pedal is depressed. Afterabout four or five applications, no furtherhissing should be heard.

29 Road test (after everyservice)

28 Front wheel alignment check

27 Handbrake adjustment

1 The procedure is similar to that for thebleeding of the hydraulic system as describedin Chapter 9, except that the brake fluidreservoir should be emptied by syphoning.Use a clean poultry baster or similar beforestarting, and allowance should be made forthe old fluid to be expelled when bleeding asection of the circuit.2 Working as described in Chapter 9, openthe first bleed screw in the sequence, andpump the brake pedal gently until nearly allthe old fluid has been emptied from the fluidreservoir. Top-up to the “MAX” level with newfluid, and continue pumping until only the new

fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluidcan be seen emerging from the bleed screw.Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir levelup to the “MAX” level line.3 Old hydraulic fluid is invariably much darkerin colour than the new, making it easy todistinguish the two.4 Work through all the remaining bleedscrews in the sequence, until new fluid can beseen at all of them. Be careful to keep themaster cylinder reservoir topped-up to abovethe “MIN” level at all times, or air may enterthe system and greatly increase the length ofthe task.

30 Brake fluid renewal

12 000 Miles (20 000 Km) 1•13

1

18 000 Miles (30 000 Km) /18 Months

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluidcan harm your eyes anddamage painted surfaces, souse extreme caution when

handling and pouring it. Do not use fluidthat has been standing open for sometime, as it absorbs moisture from the air.Excess moisture can cause a dangerousloss of braking effectiveness.

5 When the operation is complete, check thatall bleed screws are securely tightened, andthat their dust caps are refitted. Wash off alltraces of spilt fluid, and recheck the reservoirfluid level.6 Check the operation of the brakes beforetaking the car on the road.

1 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 4).2 Unscrew the filler cap. Top-up the clutchmaster cylinder to the bottom of the filler neckwith hydraulic fluid.3 Connect a bleed tube to the bleed screw onthe slave cylinder and place the free end in a jar.4 Open the bleed screw three-quarters of aturn and have an assistant fully depress theclutch pedal slowly.

5 Tighten the bleed screw, then allow theclutch pedal to return to its stop. Pause for amoment, then repeat the procedure twicemore. Top-up the master cylinder reservoir,and continue bleeding the system until thefluid entering the jar is free of air bubbles. Thefluid must never drop more than half waydown the reservoir.6 Check the tightness of the bleed screw,and fit the filler cap after topping up thereservoir to the bottom of the filler neck.7 Refit the air cleaner with reference toChapter 4.

31 Clutch fluid renewal (ifapplicable)

Draining1 It is preferable to drain the cooling systemwhen the engine has cooled. If this is notpossible, place a cloth over the expansiontank filler cap. Turn it slowly in ananti-clockwise direction until the first stop isreached, then wait until all the pressure hasbeen released.2 Remove the filler cap.3 Place a container beneath the left-handside of the radiator.4 Loosen the clip and ease the bottom hoseaway from the radiator outlet. Drain thecoolant into the container.5 Place a second container beneath thecylinder block drain plug located on the rearright-hand side next to the clutch slavecylinder. If necessary, remove the hot airstove from the exhaust manifold (Chapter 4),to improve access to the drain plug. Unscrewthe plug and drain the coolant.

Flushing6 After some time the radiator and enginewaterways may become restricted or evenblocked with scale or sediment, whichreduces the efficiency of the cooling system.When this occurs, the coolant will appearrusty and dark in colour and the systemshould then be flushed. In severe cases,reverse flushing may be required as describedlater.7 Disconnect the top hose from the cylinderhead outlet elbow, and the bottom hose fromthe radiator outlet.

8 Insert a hose in the top hose, and allowwater to circulate through the radiator until itruns clear from the outlet.9 Insert the hose in the expansion tank fillerneck and allow water to run out of the cylinderhead outlet elbow and bottom hose until clear. 10 Disconnect the heater inlet hose from thefront of the cylinder head, insert the hose, andallow water to circulate through the heaterand out through the bottom hose until clear.11 In severe cases of contamination, thesystem should be reverse flushed. To do this,remove the radiator, invert it, and insert ahose in the outlet. Continue flushing until clearwater runs from the inlet.12 If the engine is to be reverse flushed,remove the thermostat, and insert a hose intothe cylinder head. Continue flushing until clearwater runs from the cylinder block drain plugand bottom hose.13 The use of any good proprietary cleaningagent may be necessary if the system isseverely contaminated (always readmanufacturer’s instructions). Reverse flushingis also recommended to cleanse the coolingsystem and restore maximum efficiency. Toprevent contamination occurring in future,regular renewal of the antifreeze is necessary.

Filling14 Reconnect the radiator bottom hose andheater hose. 15 Refit the thermostat if removed, andreconnect the top hose to the outlet elbow. 16 Insert and tighten the cylinder block drainplug. 17 Pour coolant into the expansion tank filleruntil it reaches the level mark. Refit the cap. 18 Run the engine at a fast idling speed forthree minutes, then stop the engine and checkthe level in the expansion tank. Top-up thelevel as necessary, being careful to releasepressure from the system before removing thefiller cap if necessary.

Antifreeze mixtureCaution: Do not use engine antifreeze in thewindscreen/tailgate washer system, as itwill cause damage to the vehicle paintwork.19 The antifreeze should always be renewedat the specified intervals. This is necessary

not only to maintain the antifreeze properties,but also to prevent corrosion that wouldotherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitorsbecome progressively less effective.20 Always use an ethylene-glycol basedantifreeze that is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. The quantity ofantifreeze and levels of protection areindicated in the Specifications.21 Before adding antifreeze, the coolingsystem should be completely drained,preferably flushed, and all hoses checked forcondition and security.22 After filling with antifreeze, a label shouldbe attached to the expansion tank filler neck,stating the type and concentration ofantifreeze used, and the date installed. Anysubsequent topping-up should be made withthe same type and concentration ofantifreeze.

To maintain efficiency of the crankcaseventilation system, renew the oil filler cap.

1 Remove the distributor as described inChapter 5, and clamp it slightly in a vice.Remove the rotor arm (see illustration).

34 Contact breaker pointsrenewal (if applicable)

33 Oil filler cap renewal

32 Antifreeze (coolant) renewal

1•14 Maintenance procedures

24 000 Miles (40 000 Km) / 2 Years

Warning: Wait until the engine iscold before starting thisprocedure. Do not allowantifreeze to come in contact

with your skin, or with the painted surfacesof the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediatelywith plenty of water. Never leave antifreezelying around in an open container -antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

34.1 Removing the rotor arm (Lucas)

Continued on page 1•16

Servicing specifications 1•15

1

EngineOil filter:

Manual gearbox models (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cartridge type (Champion C103)Manual gearbox models (MG Turbo only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cartridge type (Champion C106)Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Paper element type (Champion X113)

Cooling systemNote: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.Antifreeze mixture:

28% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -15°C (5°F)50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protection down to -30°C (-22°F)

Fuel systemRefer to Chapter 4, for further details.Air cleaner element:

All models (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W125MG Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W114

Fuel filter:MG Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . In-line type

Idling speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 765 ± 165 rpmFast idle speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 ± 150 rpmExhaust gas CO content:

Except MG Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 3.5%MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 2.5%

Ignition systemSpark plug type:

998cc:Up to 1986 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC1987 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN12YCC or RN12YC

1275cc:All models (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YCMG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN7YCC or RN7YC

Spark plug gap *:RN9YCC or RN12YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.032 in)RN9YC or RN12YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 mm (0.024 in)RN7YCC or RN7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.032 in)

* The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs previously. If spark plugs of any other type are to befitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.Contact breaker gap (where applicable):

Lucas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.016 in (0.35 to 0.40 mm)Ducellier (initial) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 in (0.38 mm)

Dwell angle:Lucas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54°+ 5°Ducellier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57°± 2.5°

Air gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.010 in (0.15 to 0.25 mm)

BrakesBrake pad minimum thickness (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.125 in (3 mm)Brake shoe lining minimum thickness (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.063 in (1.6 mm)Disc minimum thickness:

Plain disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.34 in (8.6 mm)Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.74 in (18.7 mm)

TyresSizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 SR 12, 165/70R 12, 165/60 HR 13, 150/65 R315, 155/70 SR 12,

155/70 SR 12, 165/65 HR 13, 160/65 R315, 160/65 R315, or 185/55 13 (depending on model).

Pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . see “Weekly Checks”

Wiper bladesWindscreen and tailgate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-103 (16 inch)

Torque wrench settings lbf ft NmAutomatic transmission drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 39Manual gearbox drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 41Oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 39Oil filter centre bolt (automatics only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 22Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 58Rocker cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 5Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 25

1•16 Maintenance proceduresLucas distributors2 Press the moving contact spring from theinsulator post and slide out the low tensionconnector (see illustration).3 Unscrew the fixed contact retaining screwand remove the contact breaker set from thebaseplate and pin (see illustration).

Ducellier distributors4 Remove the spring clip from the two pivotposts.5 Remove the fibre washer and lift the movingcontact from the pivot post. Slide the LT wireretaining block from the distributor body anddisconnect the condenser lead.6 Remove the screw and washer andwithdraw the fixed contact from thebaseplate.

All distributors7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thepoints gap as described in Section 13. On the

Lucas version, make sure that the nylon plateengages the pin.

34.3 Removing the contact breaker set(Lucas)

34.2 Disconnecting the contact springfrom the insulator (Lucas)