CB500X Valve Checking/Adjustment Guide Before starting · CB500X Valve Checking/Adjustment Guide...

CB500X Valve Checking/Adjustment Guide

Before starting:

Removing the tank is much easier when it doesn’t have much fuel in it. Consider running the

tank to a low petrol level before starting the job.

Forum members in both the UK & USA have struggled with availability of new shims from

Honda, with them often being on back order for a week or more. Consider; if you can have

your bike in the workshop for a week plus, if you are happy to dismantle the bike twice (once

to measure and once to fit new shims) or if you can find a source of non-OEM shims (e.g.

Hot Cams kit)

Tools required:

2mm/3mm Allen key (for removing plastic clips and hooking rockers into place)

5mm Allen key

6mm Allen key

10mm spanner

8mm socket

10mm socket

13mm socket

17mm socket for crank cover plate

M6 bolt

Cross head (Phillips) screwdriver

Large flat head screwdriver

Feeler gauges

Micrometer or Vernier Calipers accurate to +/- 0.01mm

Magnetic pickup tool (recommended!)

Remove Seat

Remove Side Panels

Remove 2x 5mm allen bolts:


and pull panel out of rubber grommets, starting at the rear, to release:

Remove Front Fairing Side Panels

Remove inner fairing panel by pushing in the centre of the plastic clip, using a small allen

key, or similar, and removing allen bolt (5mm) from top of tank

Remove remaining 5mm allen bolts holding panel and plastic Phillips screw clip (also see

second photo). First photo shows bolt locations once panel is removed:


Location of plastic Phillips screw fastener on inside front of the panel

Pull the panel away from the bike at the rear to release the velcro patch and then pull

forwards to release plastic lugs from slots in the centre fairing panel. Slots on centre panel:


Lugs on inside of fairing side panel:

Remove Tank

Unscrew 2x 8mm bolts securing front of tank to bike


Pull up the front of the tank so that it pivots on the rear mounting bolt. Remove the 2x rubber

drain pipes to the bottom front of the tank

the electrical plug midway down the left-hand side of the tank (pinch to release) and the fuel

pipe from the pump (pinch white connector clip to release). A small amount of fuel will

escape, but this will be minimized if the end of the pipe is kept on the airbox.

Once the pipes and electrical connector are released, the rear bolt (10mm) can be removed to

release the tank.


Remove Hazard Relay and ECU

The ECU and Hazard Relay are located just behind the headstock on the under-tank tray. Pull

the Hazard Relay up off its mount and release the electrical connector in the base. Remove

the Relay and push the connector back through the under-tray.

Disconnect the multiplug from the base of the ECU and remove the ECU by pulling it

forwards and up through the rubber mounting band.


Release the rubber mounting band from the under-tank tray.

Disconnect feed wires (x4) to coils


Release the wiring loom securing clips so that the loom can be lifted away from the tray

Removing the under-tank tray

Remove the 10mm nut and bolt securing the PAIR valve to the under-tank tray and slide off

the spigot, so that it is no longer attached to the tray


Unclip the electrical connector secured to the outside left of the tray

Carefully lever the clutch and throttle

cables out of the retaining clip on the

right side of the tray.

Remove the 10mm bolt securing the front of

the tray to the frame


Carefully lift and maneuver the tray up and out of the frame. Release the right side first and

pull off the plug caps to allow the caps and leads to come away with the tray. Then lift the

front of the tray up and maneuver the tray away from the wiring on the left side, taking care

not to damage the connector mounting clips

Removing the PAIR valve

Release the clips from the ends of the pipes and disconnect the PAIR valve pipes from the

cam cover and airbox. Unclip the fuel hose from the PAIR hose and the electrical connector

to the valve. Then remove the PAIR valve complete with hoses


Disconnect Throttle and Clutch cables

To keep the throttle free-play, loosen the locknut on the rear throttle cable and count the

number of turns up to the top of the adjuster. Make a note of this for use in reassembly.

Unscrew the adjuster to release the cable from the bracket and then free the cable from the

throttle pulley


Unscrew the front cable to release this too

(Optional, but makes life easier on ABS bikes) Unscrew the 5mm allen bolt on the top of

the clutch cover, securing the clutch cable bracket. Release the bracket and unhook the cable

Pull the cables up through the frame and lay them out to side, so they are out of the way.


Remove the rubber heat shield

The heat shield stretches from the radiator at the front back to the frame above the cam cover.

It is installed under the top radiator hose, so can only be swiveled out of the way to the right.

To do this, unloop the ends of the shield from around the frame. Next remove the radiator top

mounting bolt (10mm) and pivot the radiator forwards enough for the shield to be stretched

over the top of the mount:

Release the shield from the left and right radiator lugs to enable it to be swiveled out to the

right side of the bike.

Release brake pipes (ABS models only)

Unscrew the 10mm brake pipe mounting

bolt to the right of the radiator top mount

and the bracket just inside the front of the

frame to give the brake pipes some slack.

Unclip the 2 white brake line securing clips

on the inside of the right frame member and

remove the clips. This enables the brake

pipes to move slightly up and out giving

more room to remove the cam cover


Remove cam cover

Unclip and remove the breather hose

from the back of the cam cover

Unbolt the 4x 10mm bolts securing the cam

cover in place. The cam cover should now be

free to lift upwards, although it might need

some persuasion to move. Once loose,

maneuver the cover backwards out through

the frame, tilting it up on the right, so clear

the cam sprockets. It will be necessary to

push the radiator top hose forwards and left

and, on ABS models, the brake pipes up and

right to enable the cover to come out.


Check valve clearances

Remove the crankcase cover using a 17mm socket


Using a 14mm socket on the crankshaft end nut, rotate the engine until the T mark lines up

with the nick at the front of the casing. The IN and EX marking on the rear cam sprocket

should line up with the top of the head

With these marks lined up, it is now possible to check the Exhaust valves (front camshaft).

The gap should be 0.27mm +/-0.03mm

If the gap needs adjusting, then it is necessary to remove the rocker shaft so that the shims

can be removed and measured. Unscrew the 6mm allen retaining bolt from the left of the

engine

and screw an M6 bolt a few turns into the end of the rocker shaft


Pull the rocker shaft out of the head to release the rocker arms.


With the rocket shaft removed, the rockers can be pushed away from the valves and the shims

removed. I used a magnetic pickup tool to get the shims out and remove them from the

engine without danger of them dropping into it.

Once the shim is removed, use a micrometer or Vernier caliper to measure its thickness. It is

then possible to work out the size of the new shim required:

New shim = Old shim – (0.27 – Actual gap)

e.g. If the gap was 0.21 and the old shim was 2.12 the calculation would be

New shim = 2.12 – (0.27 – 0.21)

= 2.12 – 0.06

= 2.06

Install the new shim in the top of the valves and re-install the rocker shaft, moving the

rockers back into position so the shaft can pass through.


Turn the crank bolt 1/2 a turn clockwise, so that the marks on the camshaft sprockets look

like this:

Repeat the clearance checking and shim measurement/replacement (as necessary) on the Inlet

valves (rear camshaft). The gap should be 0.16mm +/-0.03mm

To calculate the new shim size on the inlet valves, use the following formula:

New shim = Old shim – (0.16 – Actual gap)

Reassembly

Reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. The only thing to watch for is ensuring the front of

the fairing side panels are correctly aligned as this has to be done as the panel is slid into

place, before any fixings are put in.

CB500X Valve Checking/Adjustment Guide Before starting · CB500X Valve Checking/Adjustment Guide...

Documents

Transcript of CB500X Valve Checking/Adjustment Guide Before starting · CB500X Valve Checking/Adjustment Guide...