SIHH 2011refabriqué en SuisseDuncan Quinnmeasure of characterLinleymicroarchitecture

ISSUE LXXI FEBRUARY 2011

editorial

CAESAR-DNA can be traced back to 2004, the historic moment when the first true-luxury magazine, a magazine dedicated to opulence and style, was published. The magazine’s approach emphasised the

concept of “original”, which we defined back then as an intelligent lifestyle, sometimes requiring extravagance, and relating to truly special brands. For us, the idea of special relates solely to products and services of the highest quality and originality, to manufacturing procedures and low volumes. We admire the ingenuity of big corporations, but emotionally we’re fond of small companies, where each client is seen as a member of the family. Although there are some notable exceptions, the brands which choose mass-production cannot inject their goods with the love and passion required to make something truly special. The CAESAR philosophy is to reveal the true image of luxury, which modern consumers are searching for in limited editions. The power to say “no” to fashionable brands remains at the will of those individuals able to look beyond the mirage of glitzy names. This level of maturity is confirmed when the individual puts their own satisfaction ahead of trying to make a good impression on others.Seven years on, CAESAR considers it is time to take its standing to the next level. The in-depth knowledge it has gained of Swiss watchmaking, suggested that this industry would offer a great opportunity to take the brand's development to the next exciting level. In line with CAESAR's international aspirations and deep beliefs about quality, we selected a niche watch manufacturer as a partner – niche in terms of volume but, more importantly, also in terms of history and approach. Seemingly created from the same DNA, CAESAR and Romain Jerome have combined the essences of two incredible brands into one revolutionary new chronograph – a timepiece that is not just about precious metals. On the contrary, the ideas combined in these seven unique timepieces are worth more than pink gold or platinum.

After seven years,

the CAESAR brand

announces the launch of

seven sensational and

ultra-desirable timepieces,

dedicated exclusively to

CAESAR Club.

This exciting move

confirms that your

magazine genuinely lives

up to its position as a

great purveyor of “True

Modern Luxury”.

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The historic Festival Hall of the International Palace Hilton,

one of Europe's oldest luxury hotels, was the venue for the

5th CÆSAR Awards Gala. After a presentation on 2011

trends, the Awards focused on the CÆSAR Honoris

diplomas, awarded by Mr Vardie, founder and editor of CÆSAR. The 2011 event

attracted VIPs of international renown to celebrate with the

luxury brand. Guests welcomed Stephan

Winkelmann, Automobili Lamborghini CEO, as honorary

member of CÆSAR Club in recognition of his impressive

automotive career. The second CÆSAR Honoris

distinction went to Franco Gusali-Beretta, representing

the 12th generation of the family business. The evening

was also marked by the presence of Jean-Claude Biver,

Hublot CEO. The CÆSAR Honoris award was presented

to him for exceptional achievements in the watch-

making industry over the past four decades.

170 CAESAR subscribers, businessmen, politicians and international sports representatives gathered for the event.

News

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T he Citroen DS3 launch was complemented by a fashion show from Catalin Botezatu. Over 300 guests attended

the event, which revolved around the 'anti-retro' concept, a slogan chosen by Citroen to represent the new model. DS3 is available in three trim levels (Chic, So Chic and Sport Chic) and offers a wide range of personalisation options. For the exterior, depending on the chosen version, there are 38 body /roof colour combinations and up to 12 alloy wheel designs.

Lufthansa has received the first of 15 Airbus A380s it has ordered. Another three will join the fleet by the end of the

year. The new aircraft will take off from Frankfurt and operate on the Tokyo, Beijing and Johannesburg routes. Before the first commer-cial flight took place on 11th June 2010, the A380 carried the German football team to the World Cup finals in South Africa. Powered by 4 Rolls-Royce Trent 900 engines, the Lufthansa A380 boasts 8 seats in First Class, 98 seats in Business Class and 420 seats in Economy.

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Sony Ericsson has launched a range of mobiles, reflecting the company’s promise to deliver 'Entertainment through Communication'. Developed on a UX platform which allows users to organise their communications in a

creative way, the phones integrate Sony Ericsson’s new design philosophy that follows the shape of the hand while also introducing a new set of own applications, such as Timescape and Mediascape. Together with XPERIA X10, the top of the mobile range, and Vivaz, the first capable HD recording terminal, the new ranges offer users direct ac-cess to social media, communications and entertainment. Helped by new applications and the 'infinite' button, which centre all communications in a single place, the new Sony Ericsson family is created to simplify the way in which users interact via mobile phones.

SLS AMG, dubbed 'the new Gullwing', is a story of fascination meeting innovation in order to fuel passions. The Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG arrived in the segment of premium cars on the wings of a legend. More precisely, the supercar boasts a

purist design, superior dynamics and a legendary level of safety and functionality. In addition, this car seems to offer the ideal synthesis of the combined efforts of Mercedes-Benz and AMG. Available in Europe for a price starting at 149,000 Euros, VAT excluded, the SLS AMG firmly answers the question: 'How will the icons of the future look?' asked by all those who show passion for really amazing motor cars. The answer comes from a legend which will surely spark their imagination. The model represents a real temptation, with its unrivalled technical pack-age, more details of which can be found at their website www.mercedes-benz.ro/SLSAMG

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Historical data shows us the founder of the Beretta company was born towards the end of the 15th century. 'Romeo Beretta first sold gun barrels in Venice,'

explains Dr Beretta. 'The barrel is extremely important. You get it right and the rifle shots straight, but get it wrong and the gun may explode in your face. At that time, there wasn’t a single manufacturer making entire guns – it wasn’t allowed. Therefore, Bartolomeo Beretta delivered the first delivery of barrels to the Venetian arsenal in 1526. If Venice decided to buy components from Romeo Beretta, he couldn’t have been a beginner, he already had a solid reputation as a producer of quality components. Bartolomeo had several sons that carried on the tradition and, as the techniques of that time evolved, the company moved from a traditional process to industrialization around the beginning of the 20th century. 'Father and son, Giuseppe Beretta and Pietro Beretta led the mechanization process and they soon realised that they could evolve from a small weapons manufacturer to a mass-producer.

Dr. Franco Gussalli Beretta is the son of Ugo Beretta and the representative of the 15th generation of the Beretta family alongside his brother, Pietro. He was appointed CEO of the Beretta SpA Two factory in 1996 and Vicepresident Beretta USA Corp. two years later. In 2000 he became President of Sako OY, a Finnish company acquired by the Beretta Group in the same year, and from 2004 he was the CEO and Vice-President of the Beretta factory in Brescia. He has a son, Carlo, who is expected to carry on the tradition of the family.

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'Pietro is considered the modern founder of Beretta,' adds Dr Beretta. 'The first pistol produced by Pietro became an instant success. It was sold in huge quantities and, as I was saying, marked the entry of Beretta into the modern age. 'Pietro had four children: two girls and two boys. Of the two sons only one got married, but didn’t have kids, and the other one never married. At the same time, only one of the daughters had children. Unfortunately, the other one died right after marriage. She is the mother of my father, a woman from the Beretta family, who married a lawyer from whom she gained the name Gussalli. 'Later on, when the two brothers reached 60, they decided to adopt him, so that they could carry on the tradition. Therefore, the family name remained Gussalli Beretta ever since.'

About the industry'We are a name with tradition and very well positioned in the market. Sure, there are other traditional brands, particularly in America, but they don’t have a long heritage like ours. We existed long before the American continent was even discovered; but Colt, Winchester and so on are benchmarks. 'Beretta is the official weapon of US Police forces and officers patrolling the American streets. In the history of the USA, Winchester and Browning are real heroes, but we are a family business and we’re trying harder than them to be up to date with the newest techniques. 'The ethos of the Beretta company is to develop a wide range of products and to continually invest in product and technology

development. It’s different for us, as a family business, we take decisions faster, more efficiently. In the case of government or PLCs, the wheels move slower, everything has to pass through multiple committees, budget commissions and so on. Money is absorbed, so there's less for research. 'We’ve been around for so long, and are among the best in the industry, thanks to this philosophy. We have some of the most modern production facilities in the world for all the brands in our portfolio. Beretta is now one of the companies, but we also have Benelli, Sako and Tikka in Finland and all these facilities are as modern as they can be nowadays. We stand between modernism and traditionalism, with an impressive history and a future we will take care of more and more in the dedicated markets.'

SF future?'Our generation won’t be around to see what comes after the bullet, in the world of ballistics technology,' says Dr Beretta. 'It’s only a matter of time and technology until what we see in sci-fi movies becomes a reality. In the army, the existing mind-set will last at least 20 years. There aren’t even talks on changing the accepted universal standard – the bullet. 'They barely speak about changing the calibre of the cartridge. Logistics is such a big problem for big armies, they are afraid to effect important changes. 'My son’s generation will start thinking about new shooting technologies, but it will take time, so our generation won’t see anything other than pistols and rifles with gun-powder.

Pietro Beretta, the grand-grandfather of Franco Gussalli Beretta, together with his two sons, Carlo and Pier Giuseppe.

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Steve JobsGulfstream VThis private jet was offered to Steve Jobs by the company’s board of directors when he became Apple CEO in January 2000. The present – a Gulfstream V – worth over $40 million, acknowledged Jobs’ efforts to steer to company away from bankruptcy and the excellent results which signalled Apple’s comeback (9 consecutive months of profit). As well as the business jet, Apple also agreed to cover the operating costs of the aircraft when used for business purposes. The sums went up from $202,000 (2006) to $776,000 (2007) and on to $871,000 (2008). Gulfstream V, also known as G-V, first flew in 1995, was certified in 1997 and was one of the first ultra-long range business jets, capable of flying over 11,000km. With a maximum range of 12,038km, Gulfstream V became, on its launch, the business jet with the longest range. In the standard configuration, Gulfstream V can seat up to 16 passengers. The total production was 191 units.

Multi-million dollar horizons

The world’s richest people travel between meetings, conferences and

vacations in unadulterated style beyond the clouds.

And, when a simple business jet is no longer enough, some of these billionaires start modifying larger

aircraft for the purpose. Much larger!

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Roman AbramovichBoeing BBJ, B767The high-profile Russian billionaire – owner of Chelsea Football Club in West London – has not one, but two impressive Boeing planes in his private fleet of aircraft. They are a Boeing Business Jet (BBJ) and a Boeing 767 converted to perform as a private jet. Based on the 737, Boeing’s Business Jet can seat between 25 and 50 passengers, depending on the configuration chosen. While the BBJ1 is based on the 737-300, the BBJ2 and BBJ3 are developed from the 737-800 and 737-900ER (Extended Range) versions. Sources reveal that, Abramovich’s BBJ boasts a 24-carat gold-plated interior, master bedroom, shower cabins, a conference area and a living-room. Even more interesting is the Boeing 767-300ER nicknamed ‘Bandit’ (the area around the cockpit windows is painted black like a mask). The same sources say the aircraft has an anti-missile system costing 1.5 million Euros and an Air-Force-One-inspired communication system that can’t be hacked. A Boeing 767 costs around $100 million, but the total price of Abramovich’s toy is hard to estimate.

Bill GatesBombardier BD-700Co-founder and president of tech giant Micro-soft travels aboard a Bombardier BD-700 Global Express built in 1999. This jet which, contrary to expectations, is the entry-level version in the range which also includes Global Express XRS and Global Express 5000 (pictured), is owned by Challenger Administration LLC. Bill Gates’ jet can seat 8 passengers at a cruising altitu-de of 15,500 meters and can cover 12,000km (it can fly non-stop from Tokyo to New York or from Moscow to Los Angeles). Sources close to Gates say the initials ‘WM’ in the registrati-on number (N887WM) are derived from Gates’ parents’ names, William and Mary. Bombar-dier Aerospace launched this aircraft in 1993, with the first flight taking place in October 1996. To date, the Canadian company has built over 260 units, which are in service with private customers or governments around the world. The price of a Bombardier Global Express XRS was $45 million, while the Global Express 5000 costs $40 million (prices valid for 2010).

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Google foundersBoeing 767Sergey Brin and Larry Page prefer the comfort of a Boeing 767-200 converted into a business jet. The duo received permission from NASA to use the military airport Moffett Field (California), close to Google’s headquarters, as a base for their jet – a privilege enjoyed by a few in the United States. The aircraft was bought in September 2005 from Qantas. The rumoured price was $15 million, plus another $10 million to convert the airplane according to the new owners’ wishes. It seems the Google founders hired de-sign guru Leslie Jennings to modify the interior – the same designer who took care of the business jet of Microsoft co-founder, Paul Allen. A standard Boeing 767 can transport between 180 and 375 passengers, but the number was reduced to just 50 people in the case of the ‘Google Jet’. The luxurious interior includes two spacious living-rooms, shower cubicles in the bathrooms, relaxation areas and 15 First Class seats. Apparently, Sergey Brin chose to fit some hammocks on-board, as he is a huge fan of them.

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The Sultan of BruneiBoeing 747What do the President of the United States and the Sultan of Brunei have in common? They fly the same type of aicraft – the gargantuan Boeing 747-400 jumbo-jet. The specification of Air Force One may be hard to beat, but the Sultan’s private plane is no joke, either – with large expanses of the interior covered in 24-carat gold. Known for his extravagances, the Sultan spent $100 million buying the Boeing, and another $120 million to completely modify it. State-of-the-art equipment and the latest technology are complemented by a gold jacuzzi, fine silks, crystal chandeliers, art objects and stunning baldaquin-covered beds. As well as the Boeing 747, the Sultan of Brunei keeps six ‘normal’ business jets and two helicopters in his fleet. With its unmistakable forward ‘hump’, the Boeing 747 was the first wide-bodied jet ever made. The first commercial flight took place in 1970 and the aircraft held the record for transport capacity (between 416 and 524 seats) for 37 years – until the Airbus A380 arrived.

Prince Al-Waleed bin TalalAirbus A380Member of the Saudi Arabian Royal family, Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal has a fortune estimated at $20 billion. In 2007, the prince entered the Guiness Book of Records for buying the first A380 for private use (estimated delivery 2012). The price was $485 million, a sum which also includes the reconfiguration of the aircraft. The Airbus A380 is not the only aicraft in the Prince’s fleet as he already owns a Boeing 747, an Airbus A321 and a Hawker Siddeley 125. Downstairs, the VIP A380 has a garage for the prince’s limousines. From here, a private elevator takes him to the master suite, where you’d find five king-size beds and electronically-controlled prayer floor mats (so that they permanently face Mecca). Private suites, the equivalent of First Class, are included and can accommodate up to 20 guests. In addition, the aircraft has a 10-seat concert hall, a piano, a conference room with holographic projector and asauna. Moreover, an image of the terrain over which the aircraft flies is projected on the floor of the Wellbeing room, representing a journey on a ‘flying carpet’.

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Mixed talentPatrick Jouin was born on the 5th June 1967 in Nantes, a city with the motto ‘May Neptune help the sailors!’ Indeed, Neptune has been a strong influence in all areas of his designs

Whether it’s an intuitive toy for young kids or the revolutionary shape of an ice-cream topping (left), Patrick Jouin shows extraordinary imagination

Fagoe PISTACHE - interactive toy

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For his Cassina furniturePatrick Jouin

chose to develop

minimalist projects which

reinterpret the brand’s philosophy.

Each piece has details that are not obvious at

first glance. The experience

gained from teaming-up with

Philippe Starck clearly helped

forge his vision of comfort and

of luxury.

atrick Jouin graduated from the National School of Industrial Design in 1992 and debuted alongside the great Philippe Starck, who back then was the creative director of the Thompson Multimedia agency. International recognition followed a year after this debut, with the ‘Designer of the Year’ award at the

‘Maison & Objet’ event in Paris in 1993.He continued to work with Starck in Paris between 1995 and 1999, making himself known by also collaborating with the Alessi studios. The list of companies which have produced or are still producing the results of Jouin’s imagination includes brands like Thompson, Lignet Roset, Renault, Cassina, Murano and Kartell.

Cassina KAMI

Horloge Plaza Athenée, found in Alain Ducasse

restaurants

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OneShot, produced by MGX, is a foldable stool designed by Patrick Jouin. It’s a unique project in the industry, both as an ergonomic solution

and a manufacturing process

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The SOLID collection, produced by MGX, incorporates a new

technology imagined by Jouin

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Patrick Jouin doesn’t want to reinvent principles which have already proven their value and utility. His creative philosophy seeks to complete and fine-tune objects considered common by everyone. This creative side was developed during his collaboration with the Alessi studio.

He laid the foundations for his own agency and went on to set a benchmark, especially in the luxury industry. The first proof of this was the Cassina furniture collection, which includes lots of items from Jouin. His friendship with one of the world’s leading chefs, Alain Ducasse, led to the birth of some specially-decorated restaurants. In Paris, Patrick Jouin was given the task of transforming the Ducasse pastry in Plaza Athenee, after which he generated a unique concept for the Mix restaurant in New York. He was also the creative mind behind the famous Jules Verne restaurant in the Eiffel Tower.The partnership with the great Alessi factory of ideas generated the pasta pot which he developed with Alain Ducasse. It draws inspiration from the old method of cooking used by olive harvesters. As they usually had insufficient water, the solution sought to make the most of every drop of it. The efficient use of water also ensures a strong aroma, every single one of the ingredients leaving its particu-lar taste. Patrick Jouin understood this process and translated the secret into a modern design which changes the taste and transforms pasta into a delicacy. This example becomes relevant for a creative philosophy which instills identity in common objects. Maybe this also jus-tifies the involvement of the designer in the urban scenery of Paris. “We did the maths and came to the conclusion that in Paris you find a Jouin design every 350 metres. From cycle stands to advertising panels, the artist’s contribution is pre-sent in over 46,000 projects included in the modern image of Paris,” stated Valerie Guillaume, curator of Pompidou Center, which organised the retrospective event ‘10 years of Jouin’.

Thalya chair, made for Kartell, was launched in 2007.

Available in various colours.

Patrick Jouin and Alain Ducasse

Lexon d.i.Vox, d.i.Time – alarm watch

Patrick Jouin and Alain Ducasse

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Intelligent espressoThe latest version of the Francis Francis home espresso maker takes Illy coffee flavors to the next level. Together with the new iperEspresso capsules, the X7 adds a convenient digital touch to traditional coffee-making methods

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TThe Francis Francis

X7 retains detailsfrom the traditional espresso ritual. The

iperEspresso measure is

inserted into the metallic handle,

which needs to be manually

screwed into the machine. For lovers of

capuccino and other goodies,

the X7 also offers a steam

system.

The brand Francis Francis was created by Francesco Illy in 1994 to produce the most interesting home espresso machines. The X1 was the first success, defining the unique Illy aroma imagined by the designer Luca Trazzi. The image is appealing due to the unconventional retro-futuristic look, and utilises a technical solution to replace the craftsmanship of the professional Barista usually needed to place the coffee and know exactly the quantity needed for a cup. Illy reconstructed the experience of making the perfect espresso by means of a clean and automated process. The models in the Francis Francis collection combine the same retro silhouette with modern technologies, but the X7 brings an infusion of modernism. It adds the neat touch of an illuminated panel and proves to be more intuitive than a TV remote. The buttons are concealed behind illustrative drawings and are more pleasant to the touch thanks to the rubberised protection.IperEspresso capsules represent more proof of Illy evolution. After patenting the E.S.E. formula (easy serving espresso), the Italian manufacturer now has an even more efficient solution to guarantee an unmistakable aroma. IperEspresso defines the first two-step process to make an espresso. Basically, the plastic bowl includes the ground Arabica coffee and allows contact with water heated to precisely 80 degrees Celsius. Only after the capsule is filled is espresso allowed to reach the cup.

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The unmistakable contours of Francis Francis espresso

makers have been created by the designer Luca Trazzi since

1994. Following tradition, the X7 is offered in red,

blue, white or black.

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Gastro boutiqueIn 133 years, Victor Churchill has evolved from a simple meat house to the benchmark premium butchers shop in the Southern hemisphere. Victor Churchill delivers portioned meat to many leading Australian restaurants, but is also the provider for high-end locations in Shanghai, Beijing, Singapore and other major cities in South-East Asia.

James Churchill opened his butchers shop in 1876 on Queen Street, Woollraha a small Australian town. Since then, Wooll-raha has been ‘devoured’ by Sydney and is now a suburb of the city, a luxury residential area renowned all over the world, and only 5km from the Australia’s main centre of banking. In its 133 year history, the shop has had four owners, the cur-rent shareholder being Vic’s Premium Quality Meat, the lar-gest premium-meat seller in Australia. The original name was retained in memory of its first owner, though the shop is now a true exhibit for Victor and Anthony Puharich, father and son, co-founders of Vic’s Premium Quality Meat company.The shop is laid-out like any other European artisanal bou-tique. The only difference is that here, high-end meat pro-ducts replace the classic jewellery, watches, leather goods, perfumes or other items one can find nowadays at a shop in Place Vandome or Saville Row. The Puharichs commissioned Dreamtime Australia, the tren-diest local design studio – a company lead by Michael Mc-Cann, a real Philippe Starck of the Southern hemisphere – to fit-out the premises. Their concept was to make Victor

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Churchill an über-stylish and welcoming meat emporium fea-turing myriad retro touches and traditional butchery equip-ment – a shop which distances itself as much as possible from the meat counter you might find in a modern supermarket. The store now resembles a kitchen from a European boutique hotel or a smart urban delicatessen. Goodbye refrigerators, metallic hooks, wall-tiles and stainless steel. This butchers shop is decorated with oak wood, the floors boast Italian mo-saics of finest marble, the hallways and the ageing room’s walls being finished with massive salt blocks brought from the Himalaya. The retro feel is enhanced by the Berkel manual cutting machines, built in Holland at the beginning of last cen-tury. They were refurbished in Europe and are currently used in the Victor Churchill store on a daily basis.The shop is known to be the provider for Australia’s finest restaurants, but chefs from the whole of South-East Asia get their meat products from this butchers shop too as Victor Churchill exports sliced meat and aged products.

The hallways and the ageing

room’s walls are finished

with massive salt blocks

brought from the Himalaya.

The Italian mosaic floor

is made of marble.

The cutting machines were built at the beginning of the 1900sby W.A. van Berkel, a Dutch butcher which founded the cutting machines company. Later on, the brand was bought by an American industrial group. The machines are currently a benchmark in the meat industry.

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The facade of Victor Churchill butcher shop borrows the style

of old London shops.

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Victor and Anthony Puharich are the co-foundersof the Vic’s Premium Quality Meat company, the largest premium meat products seller in Australia. Victor comes from a family with Croatian roots and a tradition in the meat business. His father and grandfather were both butchers in Europe.

Most of the meat is reared locally, but some delicacies like Wagyu beef and European hams are imported then aged, prepared and sliced, as appropriate, to the highest standards.As well as offering classic butchers-shop merchandise, Victor Churchill is renowned for its top-end meat products, which rival the best in Europe. Bresarola, prosciutto and jamon iberico are available, along with a large variety of hunting sausages and other “mixed” products. All in all, Victor Churchill offers quality meat and charcuterie in a truly stunning environment. It’s a carnivore’s delight!

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Take away the meat and the concept behind the layout of Victor Churchill resembles a

stylish European boutique.

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Weavers of miracles History is fickle, and not always fair. Despite being known globally as Panama hats, aficianados recognise that the world’s finest straw headgear originates from the village of Montecristi in Ecuador, South America.Here, magic can be found in every square centimetre of flawless material that’s created using the same principles they’ve practised for 200 years.

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The masculine

Panama hats

collectionconsists of 18

different models. The detail which

differentiates one hat from another is created in the

“closing” method. At the end of the weaving process, the

hat has an approximate form. Using

wooden blocks, the last

person in the manufacturing chain shapes

the desired contours into

the sombrero, profiling the crown and

giving the brim its unique outline.

short distance from the waves of the South Pacific, and half-a-day’s drive from the capital Quito, the village of Montecristi humbly carries the title of the world’s best manufacturer of

Panama hats. Just as haute-horologerie was

born in Switzerland, Italian fa-brics are renowned the world

over and the best cigars are found in Havana, the world’s

headwear aficianados know that the finest house for “superfi-no” accessories is found in North-East Ecuador.Montecristi lives from weaving. It’s one of the most pro-fitable jobs in the area and a high percentage of its 14,000 inhabitants can weave a Panama. Ironically, while Panama hat weaving is a dying art, and many of these hats end up in bazaars as decorative items or bad taste souvenirs, celebrities from Hollywood and beyond are wearing them as must-have accessories and paying huge sums for the privilege.As with any form of art, the manufacture of Panama

The black stripe denotes from the mourning period following the death of Queen Victoria of Great Britain in 1901. Over time, different variations were introduced, with the stripe in other colors. Show above, a lady’s Breton hat.

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The Fedora hat is easily identified by its sharpened crown and sloping brim.

It’s a classic form of the Panama hat, some would say the most well-known.

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sombreros draws aficionados from around the globe. In the mid-1980s, the creative director of an important US ad-vertising agency headed to Ecuador. He had discovered the story of the hats in a travel guide and, shortly after, what had started as a simple photo trip led to the founding of Panama Hat Company. He was so impressed with the talent and dedi-cation of the Montecristi workers that he made the mission of saving this art a personal fight. PHC was just the first step. The desire to help later morphed into the Montecristi Foundation, a charity organisation with community-orientated programs. Brent Black was more than just another guy who came to buy hats for almost nothing. He offered the hatters a fair price, more than anything they’d ear-ned before, making sure they were paid the true value of their endeavours and therefore were motivated to continue their work. In exchange, from 1987 onwards – the year when the firm was founded – he has the privilege of selecting the finest

Following a special treatment, the toquilla straws are more resistant than the weaves we’re accustomed to. Their cutting is done towards the end of the

process, when most of the hat is ready.

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The weaver’s position is very uncomfortableIn order to make sure the hat’s edges are symmetrical, a master hatter must weave while leaning forward, with his chest against a wooden tool that presses the contours into the hat.

models ahead of the long list of companies waiting in line.So, what is the essence of a well-made hat? There are 14 distinct steps in creating every Panama sombrero. These take days of work and the effort of a team whose life philosophy is simple: attention to detail. After gathering the toquilla leaves, a long process of prepa-ration starts, which includes the cutting, boiling, whitening, ironing and frying of the straws. Only then can the weaving start. The first few hours of the completely-manual weaving process creates the plantilla, a woven disc no bigger than a coin. Slowly, paying great attention to detail, the threads are woven until the hat takes shape. When weaving, a worker rests his chest on a wooden support, a traditional position used for centuries. The quality of the hat is defined by the number of interleaves per square-centime-tre, from 10-15 for an average-quality hat, to 45 for the very best. The price of such a hat? Upto US$25,000!

Brent Black started a true economic revolution in Montecristi. Driven by his love for the unique

hats which come from the Ecuadorian village, not only did he help to keep alive a tradition that was set to disappear, but he also contributed to the well-being of the whole community. He was the first one to offer workers a fair price. He doesn’t hire them, instead he buys the best hats that they produce. With such quality guaranteed, the cost of a hat can easily surpass 300 dollars. The most expensive ones go for US$25,000. Numerous celebrities and public figures are seen wearing Panama hats. In the past, presidents like Nikita Kruschev, Theodore Ro-osevelt, Napoleon Bonaparte and Winston Churchill all owned one. Now, Harrison Ford, Richard Gere, Johnny Depp, Steve Tyler and Sylvester Stallone buy them directly from the Panama Hat Company.

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Panama hats are immediately recognisable by the creamy texture and pale yellow colour. Producing the very finest hats can take up to two months. Therefore, current generations don’t show great interest in the art of weaving.

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The wonderful Marcel It’s not by chance that the Dutchman Marcel

Wanders is also associated with the word “wonders”. In a globalised and rationalised world,

Wanders clearly stands out as one of the few designers with poetic vision.

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The “knitted”

motif is always

presentin Marcel Wanders’

collections. The furniture which appears to be

knitted includes modern

technologies to give durability

over time.

lthough industrial design dis-covered its artistic side in the 1970s and 80s, renowned designer, Marcel Wanders’ generation still found it wasn’t easy to make their

way amongst the esta-blished names.

Born in a town close to Amsterdam, Marcel displayed a creative edge throughout childhood, though it was this maverick creativity that got him kicked out of the Eindhoven Design Academy in 1980, the most pre-stigious design institution in Holland. “I’m not the type of person who works on small inventions in order to save the world. I create products you can relate to for your whole life,” he reveals with utter confidence and commitment. Such grandiose statements are backed-up by a fabulous array of customers. Eventually, Marcel Wanders finished his studies, graduating magna cum laudae from the Arnhem Art School in 1988. International fame followed in 1996, with the “knitted chair” project, especially created for a design expo. Although he wasn’t present when that first experi-ment was revealed, the knitted chair drew everyone’s

Baccarat Bourgogne

Baccarat Les Essprits des Bois

Flos Zeppelin

Wanders Wonders Porcelain Fles Delftware

Editions Crochetarmchair

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The landscapes imagined by Marcel Wanders are full of details, but they reflect a coherent spirit. Shown here, a room of his personal workshop in Amsterdam.

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moooi Crochet table

The Flos Skygarden lamp impresses with the interior design which includes the Wanders logo in the middle.

Limited edition Baccarat decanter

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Marcel Wanders

signs a limited

edition of the Philips

Senseo.

attention and made him famous overnight. Marcel chose the image and the knitting technique because it was one of his passions. The techinique also communicated his creative philosophy: inspired by traditional craftmanship, he uses modern technologies to create new and original objects. The ‘knitted’ medium can still be found in other creations produced by his studio, while the famous chair is in the port-folio of the Cappellini brand and sells for a price of around 2500 Euro. Wanders is currently involved in commercial and residential projects all over the world. Be it the Miami Mondrian hotel or the Villa Moda com-mercial centre in Bahrain, the designer’s style is unmistakable. His business portfolio also includes the furniture manufacturer moooi, whi-ch Wanders founded in Holland and then sold half of the shares to Ita-lian company, B&B. These days, his Amsterdam studio is linked with some of the most important companies from the worlds of furniture manufacturing and interior decoration. His most recent “victory” was the liaison with renowned French brand, Baccarat, for which he crea-ted a collection of crystal items with original shapes and purposes. “I am very rigorous when it comes to selecting my partners, as I want to be sure of my projects’ success,” he says. Marking his premiere for the conservative crystal brand, Wanders designed a series of plates and glasses with interchangeable functi-ons and a metal stag as a candle support. Marcel Wanders ‘signs’ his works by discreetly embossing his own face with golden lips and nose on the object, usually hidden amid the details of the creation, as he believes his original style should be instantly recognisable. If you look hard, you’ll find this logo adorning brands as diverse as Philips, Cappellini, Moroso, Flos, Bisazza and Baccarat.

moooi is a creation of Marcel Wanders’ imagination. Although he sold 50% to the Italian B&B company, the Dutchman is still the Artistic Director and fights for the creative integrity of the brand. He succeeds!

moooi vases Ceramics Sponge and moooi Ceramics Egg

moooi VIP armchair