C5 FOOD Tips for growing asparagus in...
1
By Dennis Morgeson Asparagus is a long lived perennial vegetable crop. Each plant can be produc- tive for 15 or more years if given proper care. Asparagus will grow in most any soil as long as it has good drain- age. Asparagus doesn’t like to have wet feet, it leads to root rot. An ideal pH of 6.5 to 7.5 will give you good results; it will not tolerate a pH under 6.0. If you are thinking of planting asparagus have a soil test done and the soil amend- ed before planting. If you aren’t willing to test your soil apply 10-20-10 or a similar fertilizer at a rate of 6 pounds per 1,000 square feet; this can also be broadcast around established plants for added growing power. Only buy one year old, healthy, disease-free crowns from a reputable grower. Asparagus is sold in crowns, which are one-year-old plants grown from seed. When fully established each crown can produce a half pound of asparagus spears. You can start your own asparagus from seed but it will have to grow one year where you sow it. The following spring it will have to be dug and spaced out in its permanent location. This basically means you lose one year of spear production in your garden. Another dis- advantage to planting aspara- gus by seed is getting the variety you want; the best varieties aren’t usually avail- able in seed form. When selecting a variety of asparagus there are some interesting things to consider. There are new varieties on the market, which are far superior to the old varieties. New all male hybrid asparagus such as Jersey Giant, Jersey Prince, and Jersey Knight, these vari- eties do not produce seed. Basically, when asparagus seeds the new plants become weeds that must be pulled out as to not overcrowd the bed. Female plants expand a lot of energy making seeds and don’t pro- duce as many edible spears as do the male plants. The new all male asparagus varieties generally out produce the old Mary Washington varieties by 3 to 1. Asparagus should be planted after the soil has warmed up to about 50 degrees, usually in April. There is no advan- tage to planting it earlier because it won’t grow until the soil warms and the longer it sets in cold wet soil the more likely it is to rot. If you plant asparagus in the vegetable garden plant it on the west or north side so it won’t shade the other vegetables. When planting asparagus dig a furrow no deeper than 5-6 inches, if you plant it any deeper overall yield will be reduced. Apply 1 pound of 0-46-0 (triple super phos- phate) or 2 pounds 0-20-0 (super phosphate) fertilizer per 50 foot of row in the bottom of the furrow before planting. This will stimulate root growth and increase later yields. Toss the crowns into the furrow on top of the fertilizer, it won’t burn the roots, and the plants will grow just fine regardless of how they land in the furrow. The crowns should be space 1-1/2 feet apart. If you plant more than one row space them five feet apart. After planting, back fill the furrow to its original level. You don’t have to gradually fill the furrow, just make sure not to walk on it; this will pack the soil down. If the soil is warm and the asparagus is kept moist it should emerge in a week or so after planting. One important thing to remember is NOT to harvest the asparagus the first sea- son. It will need all of its energy to produce a larger crown and store food for the fol- lowing season. If we have a dry summer keep it watered, espe- cially the first year. Generally, asparagus doesn’t need to be irrigat- ed, however if we have an exceptional drought the follow- ing years harvest will be reduced if you don’t irrigate. There aren’t many insect and disease problems on asparagus. The one real problem is aspara- gus beetles, which chew on the leaves and stems causing them to turn brown. This can reduce the yield the following season. Sevin will give good control of asparagus beetles; simply spray at the first signs of damage. At the end of the growing season don’t cut down the ferns. Leave them through the winter. They will help protect the root systems by catch- ing snow and keep the soil moist and cool. By keeping the soil cool the asparagus will be delayed and won’t be as likely to get frost damaged in the spring. Around the last of March the old ferns can be mowed as low as possible. I have always heard of peo- ple using salt for weed control in asparagus, but it’s really not necessary or a good idea as far as soil health goes. Salt will actually impede water infiltration into the soil and can leach into surrounding areas killing other vegetables and plants that aren’t as salt tolerant. The first year use a good layer of mulch for weed control, and it will also conserve moisture. You can also use labeled pre-emergent herbicides. If you have an old patch of asparagus you can spray round up over the bed before the fronds emerge. This will kill any existing weeds; this is a good time to apply a layer of mulch. It’s a good idea to apply half pound of ammonium nitrate fertiliz- er per 50 feet of row each year when harvest is finished. This will increase shoot growth, which will increase food stor- age, which will increase har- vest the following spring. Once you start harvesting asparagus it can continue until 75 percent of the new spears emerging from the soil are less than 3/8 of an inch wide or about the width of a pencil. At this point you should dis- continue harvest. Asparagus should be harvested in the morning while it is freshest and stored in the refrigera- tor at 38-40 degrees. If you have any questions call me at the office at (859) 336-7741. Happy gardening. Editor’s note: Dennis Morgeson is the agent for horticulture in Washington County. C5 wednesday, april 11, 2012 • the lebanon enterprise • FEATURE Tips for growing asparagus in Kentucky DID YOU KNOW ? ■ FOOD GOODIN HOME CENTER 207 M.L. King Ave., Lebanon (270) 692-3153 T a r k e t t ® Tarkett ® F i b e r F l o o r ® Fiber Floor ® A unique flooring option that stands up to real-life water, moisture, scuffs, scratchesa nd indentations in a warm, comfortable and it-looks-great kind of way. Floor Cleaners and Refreshers T a r k e t t ® V i n y l S h e e t Tarkett ® Vinyl Sheet Stands up to your day-to-day, that is wear, tear, rip and gouge resistant - and easy to maintain. Realistic wood, stone and tile designs and an array of color options. T & H FEED SERVICE, INC. 836 West Main St., Lebanon www.thfeedsetc.com (270) 692-2749 (800) 263-3440 SPRING HAS ARRIVED... We offer Lawn Consulting & Seeding Services “The Business That Service Built” Custom Spraying Soybean Seed Custom Feed Mixing Commodities Available Seed Corn Field & Grass Seed Ariat Footwear Preifert Equipment Farm & Fence Supplies And Much More... ROGERS FERTILIZE & SERVICE “A division of T&H Feed Service Inc.” Custom spreading with GPS accuracy “WORKING WITH YOU TO MAXIMIZE PROFIT PER ACRE” BECKS SEED DEALER 1 0 7 W . M a i n S t . 2 0 7 - 6 9 2 - 6 4 0 5 2 6 5 O l d S p r i n g f i e l d R d . 2 7 0 - 6 9 2 - 1 1 3 7 T e l e p h o n e B a n k i n g 2 4 / 7 6 9 2 - 0 8 7 1 w w w . p b o f l e b a n o n . c o m MEMBER FDIC Compost can improve soil structure and texture and improve the soil’s capacity to hold water. Eco-conscious green-thumbers love compost because it’s all-natural, while cost-conscious homeown- ers like compost because they can improve their lawn and garden without spend- ing a dime. Adding compost improves soil fertility and can stimulate healthy root devel- opment, enabling lawns and gardens to better withstand potentially harsh weather, such as summer heat waves or windy fall and winter after- noons. Compost is effective because it provides food for microorganisms that con- tribute to overall soil health. When these microorganisms are fed, they produce phos- phorous, potassium and nitro- gen. As a result, homeowners save money because they do not need to purchase poten- tially costly soil amendments to maintain healthy soil. When making compost, homeown- ers can use a host of ingredi- ents they likely already have lying around the house. Dead houseplants, for instance, can be effective compost ingre- dients as long as the plants were not thorny or riddled with disease. Homeowners with pet rabbits, or gerbils, or hamsters can even add these animals’ manure to their com- post. When doing so, include the wood or paper bedding from the animal’s crate. Another potentially valuable compost ingredient is vegeta- ble scraps, such as carrot peel- ings, or even eggshells. When adding these items, be sure to bury them in the compost pile so they don’t attract animals. Enjoy the Farm, Home & Garden Show April 14 & 15
Transcript of C5 FOOD Tips for growing asparagus in...
By Dennis MorgesonAsparagus is a long lived
perennial vegetable crop. Each plant can be produc-tive for 15 or more years if given proper care. Asparagus will grow in most any soil as long as it has good drain-age. Asparagus doesn’t like to have wet feet, it leads to root rot. An ideal pH of 6.5 to 7.5 will give you good results; it will not tolerate a pH under 6.0. If you are thinking of planting asparagus have a soil test done and the soil amend-ed before planting. If you aren’t willing to test your soil apply 10-20-10 or a similar fertilizer at a rate of 6 pounds per 1,000 square feet; this can also be broadcast around established plants for added growing power.
Only buy one year old, healthy, disease-free crowns from a reputable grower. Asparagus is sold in crowns, which are one-year-old plants grown from seed. When fully established each crown can produce a half pound of asparagus spears. You can start your own asparagus from seed but it will have to grow one year where you sow it. The following spring it will have to be dug and spaced out in its permanent location. This basically means you lose one year of spear production in your garden. Another dis-advantage to planting aspara-gus by seed is getting the variety you want; the best varieties aren’t usually avail-able in seed form.
When selecting a variety of asparagus there are some interesting things to consider. There are new varieties on the market, which are far superior to the old varieties. New all male hybrid asparagus such as Jersey Giant, Jersey Prince, and Jersey Knight, these vari-eties do not produce seed. Basically, when asparagus seeds the new plants become weeds that must be pulled out as to not overcrowd the bed. Female plants expand a lot of energy making seeds
and don’t pro-duce as many edible spears as do the male plants. The new all male asparagus varieties generally out produce the old Mary Washington varieties by 3 to 1.
Asparagus should be planted after the soil has warmed up to about 50 degrees, usually in April. There is no advan-tage to planting it earlier because it won’t grow until the soil warms and the longer it sets in cold wet soil the more likely it is to rot. If you plant asparagus in the vegetable garden plant it on the west or north side so it won’t shade the other vegetables.
When planting asparagus dig a furrow no deeper than 5-6 inches, if you plant it any deeper overall yield will be reduced. Apply 1 pound of 0-46-0 (triple super phos-phate) or 2 pounds 0-20-0 (super phosphate) fertilizer per 50 foot of row in the bottom of the furrow before planting. This will stimulate root growth and increase later yields. Toss the crowns into the furrow on top of the fertilizer, it won’t burn the roots, and the plants will grow just fine regardless of how they land in the furrow. The crowns should be space 1-1/2 feet apart. If you plant more than one row space them five feet apart.
After planting, back fill the furrow to its original level. You don’t have to gradually fill the furrow, just make sure not to walk on it; this will pack the soil down. If the soil is warm and the asparagus is kept moist it should emerge in a week or so after planting.
One important thing to remember is NOT to harvest the asparagus the first sea-son. It will need all of its energy to produce a larger
crown and store food for the fol-lowing season. If we have a dry summer keep it watered, espe-
cially the first year. Generally,
asparagus doesn’t need to be irrigat-ed, however if we have an exceptional drought the follow-ing years harvest will be reduced if you don’t irrigate.
There aren’t many insect and disease problems
on asparagus. The one real problem is aspara-
gus beetles, which chew on the leaves and stems causing them to turn brown. This can reduce the yield the following season. Sevin will give good control of asparagus beetles; simply spray at the first signs of damage.
At the end of the growing season don’t cut down the ferns. Leave them through the winter. They will help protect the root systems by catch-ing snow and keep the soil moist and cool. By keeping the soil cool the asparagus will be delayed and won’t be as likely to get frost damaged in the spring. Around the last of March the old ferns can be mowed as low as possible.
I have always heard of peo-ple using salt for weed control in asparagus, but it’s really not necessary or a good idea
as far as soil health goes. Salt will actually impede water infiltration into the soil and can leach into surrounding areas killing other vegetables and plants that aren’t as salt tolerant. The first year use a good layer of mulch for weed control, and it will also conserve moisture. You can also use labeled pre-emergent herbicides. If you have an old patch of asparagus you can spray round up over the bed before the fronds emerge. This will kill any existing weeds; this is a good time to apply a layer of mulch. It’s a good idea to apply half pound of ammonium nitrate fertiliz-er per 50 feet of row each year when harvest is finished. This will increase shoot growth, which will increase food stor-age, which will increase har-vest the following spring.
Once you start harvesting asparagus it can continue until 75 percent of the new spears emerging from the soil are less than 3/8 of an inch wide or about the width of a pencil. At this point you should dis-continue harvest. Asparagus should be harvested in the morning while it is freshest and stored in the refrigera-tor at 38-40 degrees. If you have any questions call me at the office at (859) 336-7741. Happy gardening.
Editor’s note: Dennis Morgeson is the agent for horticulture in Washington County.
C5wednesday, april 11, 2012 • the lebanon enterprise • FEATURE
Tips for growing asparagus in Kentucky DIDYOUKNOW?■ FOOD
G OODIN H OME C ENTER 207 M.L. King Ave., Lebanon
(270) 692-3153
Tarkett ® Tarkett ®
Fiber Floor ® Fiber Floor ®
A unique flooring option that stands up to real-life water, moisture, scuffs,
scratches a nd indentations in a warm,
comfortable and it-looks-great kind of way.
Floor Cleaners and Refreshers
Tarkett ® Vinyl Sheet Tarkett ® Vinyl Sheet Stands up to your day-to-day, that is wear, tear, rip and gouge resistant - and easy to maintain. Realistic wood, stone and tile designs and an array of color options.
T & H FEED SERVICE, INC. 836 West Main St., Lebanon
www.thfeedsetc.com (270) 692-2749 (800) 263-3440
SPRING HAS ARRIVED... We offer Lawn Consulting & Seeding Services
“The Business That Service Built”
Custom Spraying Soybean Seed
Custom Feed Mixing Commodities Available
Seed Corn Field & Grass Seed
Ariat Footwear Preifert Equipment
Farm & Fence Supplies And Much More...
ROGERS FERTILIZE & SERVICE “A division of T&H Feed Service Inc.”
Custom spreading with GPS accuracy “WORKING WITH YOU TO MAXIMIZE PROFIT PER ACRE”
BECKS SEED DEALER
107 W. Main St. 207-692-6405
265 Old Springfield Rd. 270-692-1137
Telephone Banking 24/7 692-0871
www.pboflebanon.com MEMBER
FDIC
Compost can improve soil structure and texture and improve the soil’s capacity to hold water. Eco-conscious green-thumbers love compost because it’s all-natural, while cost-conscious homeown-ers like compost because they can improve their lawn and garden without spend-ing a dime. Adding compost improves soil fertility and can stimulate healthy root devel-opment, enabling lawns and gardens to better withstand potentially harsh weather, such as summer heat waves or windy fall and winter after-noons. Compost is effective because it provides food for microorganisms that con-tribute to overall soil health. When these microorganisms are fed, they produce phos-phorous, potassium and nitro-gen. As a result, homeowners
save money because they do not need to purchase poten-tially costly soil amendments to maintain healthy soil. When making compost, homeown-ers can use a host of ingredi-ents they likely already have lying around the house. Dead houseplants, for instance, can be effective compost ingre-dients as long as the plants were not thorny or riddled with disease. Homeowners with pet rabbits, or gerbils, or hamsters can even add these animals’ manure to their com-post. When doing so, include the wood or paper bedding from the animal’s crate. Another potentially valuable compost ingredient is vegeta-ble scraps, such as carrot peel-ings, or even eggshells. When adding these items, be sure to bury them in the compost pile so they don’t attract animals.
Enjoy the Farm,Home & Garden
Show April 14 & 15
