by Dalida Wolfaardt · adventure was reaching its end. Now, when I think about that trip, I don’t...

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T he Otter Trail is a popular ve-day backpack route which starts at the Storms River mouth at Nature’s Valley on the Garden Route. It stretches over 42,5 km, through indigenous forests, over rivers and along kilometres of coastline. Day one of the route entails a 4,8 km hike to the rst hut, past the gauno cave and the waterfall: the rst two beacons en route. Seagulls came scrounging for leftovers and mocked with their call as though they knew how far we still had to go. When we reached Ngubu Hut, we took ice cold showers in a mountain stream with the sea on our doorstep. Day two was a stiff 7,9 km hike over steep uphills and treacherous downhills. We scaled Skilderkrans, saw Bloubaai, passed through the indigenous forest and crossed the Kleinbos River ever aware of the incoming tide. A hard day’s hike brought us to Scott Hut on the Geelhoutbos River mouth. The lapa at the camp was surrounded by lovely indigenous arum lilies but our legs were too shaky to pay them much attention. by Dalida Wolfaardt

Transcript of by Dalida Wolfaardt · adventure was reaching its end. Now, when I think about that trip, I don’t...

Page 1: by Dalida Wolfaardt · adventure was reaching its end. Now, when I think about that trip, I don’t recall the sweat and sore muscles; I only remember an uplifting and inspiring experience

The Otter Trail is a popular fi ve-day backpack route which starts at the Storms River mouth at Nature’s Valley on

the Garden Route. It stretches over 42,5 km, through indigenous forests, over rivers and along kilometres of coastline.

Day one of the route entails a 4,8 km hike to the fi rst hut, past the gauno cave and the waterfall: the fi rst two beacons en route. Seagulls came scrounging for leftovers and mocked with their call as though they knew how far we still had to go.

When we reached Ngubu Hut, we took ice cold showers in a mountain stream with the sea on our doorstep.

Day two was a stiff 7,9 km hike over steep uphills and treacherous downhills. We scaled Skilderkrans, saw Bloubaai, passed through the indigenous forest and crossed the Kleinbos River ever aware of the incoming tide.

A hard day’s hike brought us to Scott Hut on the Geelhoutbos River mouth. The lapa at the camp was surrounded by lovely indigenous arum lilies but our legs were too shaky to pay them much attention.

by Dalida Wolfaardt

Page 2: by Dalida Wolfaardt · adventure was reaching its end. Now, when I think about that trip, I don’t recall the sweat and sore muscles; I only remember an uplifting and inspiring experience

By dawn the next day, I wasn’t sure my legs would carry me down the steps outside the hut. I didn’t have much time to negotiate with my team members and before I knew it, I was crossing the Geelhoutbos and getting on with the day’s hike. My muscles warmed up, however, and soon I was putting the ups and the downs behind me and actually enjoying myself.

As we hiked on, I watched a school of dolphins playing in the waves with the sea’s constant rumble in my ears. I became entranced by the movements of the ocean currents as the sounds of birdsong from the forest fi ltered through. Everything in perfect harmony, making me feel small, and humble.

We arrived at Oakhurst Hut, after scrambling down the steep, rocky bank of the Lottering River and then crossing it boots in hand before the tide came in.

Needless to say, the hut was a most welcome sight and the view of the sea was breathtaking. The only challenge remaining was that icy shower.

The 10 km mark on day four is the Bloukrans River crossing.

We were out of bed by just after 04h00 to cross the river at low tide. Rising early wasn’t the diffi culty; the real challenge was the instant porridge at that hour for a bit of stamina.

We donned our headlamps and set out on day fi ve’s 13,8 km hike. We had to maintain a walking speed of 2 km/h in the dark over the fi rst 10 km stretch to reach the Bloukrans at low tide.

At the Witels River crossing, we all stepped on what we assumed in the dark to be a log, but which turned out to be the tail of a dead whale. A sad sighting for all.

Hours of hard hiking got us to the Bloukrans mouth at 10h30. Here, we sealed our backpacks in watertight bags and waded into the water with them fl oating along side. We waded in beyond the breakers and entered the swells – the perfect way through. The last person made it through by 11h15. By that time a breeze was blowing and we were shaking with cold – or was this part of adrenalin rush?

We scaled the cliff face on this side of the river after a rushed

lunch. It was treacherous, nerve wracking climbing, more diffi cult than crossing the river had been, but we made it to the plateau above with its lovely fynbos. We still had 3,8 km to hike but we felt relaxed and enjoyed the natural beauty around us.

Dinner at the last hut was cottage pie made with dried ingredients and parmesan cheese-fl avoured dried mashed potato, a well-deserved meal after a day of hard hiking and adventure.

On day fi ve, we climbed to the plateau and took on the 6,8 km last leg of the trail. By this time, our feet found their own rhythm and the walk was easy. I walked alone to appreciate the beauty of my surroundings, to refl ect and to clear my head.

Finally, Nature’s Valley was in sight again and I knew our adventure was reaching its end. Now, when I think about that trip, I don’t recall the sweat and sore muscles; I only remember an uplifting and inspiring experience on the incomparable Otter Trail.

Contact Chris Leipoldt, Viva Hiking Club, [email protected]

@ Leisure

Start FinishTotal distance = 42,5 km

Storms River mouth Nature’s Valley