• An easy-to-follow guide to achieving a perfect result. • Outlines all the tools you will need for the job.• Includes a materials checklist.

PLEASE NOTE: Before starting this project or buying any materials, it is well worth your time to read through all steps first to be sure you understand what is required.

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IMPORTANT: This project planner has been produced to provide basic information and our experienced staff are available to answer any questions you may have. However, this information is provided for use on the understanding that Mitre 10 is not liable for any loss or damage which is suffered or incurred (including but not limited to indirect or consequential loss), for any personal injury or damage to property suffered or sustained as a result of using the information contained in this MitrePlan Project Planner. Mitre 10 advises you to call in a qualified tradesperson, such as an electrician or plumber, where expert services are required, and to independently assess any safety precautions that will need to be followed prior to using the information in this MitrePlan Project Planner.

WARNING: There may be by laws or regulations of councils or other statutory bodies that you must comply with when following this MitrePlan Project Planner.

Build a timber play gym

MIGhTY hELPfuL hINTS TO MAkE ThE jOb EASIER■ Measuring is easy, materials are expensive. Double check all measurements and markings before you cut any piece of timber.■ For ease of construction, accuracy and safety, an extra pair of hands to help is recommended when fixing cubby roof rafters and for erecting Swing Set end frame.■ To avoid injury, bolt heads should be on the outside of posts and nuts and washers on the inside, or away from the general use side of the play gym. Any protruding coach bolt ends should be sawn off 3mm above the tightened nuts, then the ends burred by hammering.■ When fixing one piece of timber to another with coach screws, drill the appropriate size hole for the screw through the top piece first, then drill a smaller hole into the piece it is to be joined to.■ Ensure holes are straight when drilling through logs by marking both sides of the log and drawing a line around it to act as a drilling guide.■ For more accurate results when cutting several pieces of timber to exactly the same length, clamp them together and measure as one. Even if you’re a fraction out, the pieces will still all be identical.■ If making your own rope ladder and swing, be sure to use durable rope and that the knots are secure.■ If using an old tyre for a swing, scrub it first to avoid endless marks on hands and clothes. Be careful not to use steel belted tyres.■ Before adding sand to the sand pit, line it first with Weed Mat to restrict plant growth and provide drainage.■ Remember, if using any power tool, protect your eyes with suitable goggles.

Build a timber play gym

MIGhTY TOOLS fOR YOuR MITREPLAN

#45

A Play Gym is the fun way for children to exercise. This exclusive Mitre 10 Play Gym is specially designed in modules so that different sections can be added to it as your child grows in balance, muscular strength and co-ordination. The flexible design even allows you to add every child’s delight, a cubby house. Of course, if you wish and your children are old enough now, you can build the complete gym as illustrated in one go. Or, if your backyard isn’t big enough to accommodate it all, build just one or two sections or vary the specifications to fit the space available (refer heading “how much space”). Either way, the result will be a great Play Gym that is strong and aesthetically pleasing, offering your children maximum use as they continue to grow in terms of swinging, climbing, crawling, scrambling, etc. by following these simple instructions, you’ll enjoy making it as much as the kids will love playing on it.

You can build a timber gym that grows with your kids – with help from Mitre 10.

how much spaceThe Play Gym covers an area approximately 5.0 metres long x 3.5 metres wide, even wider if an optional slide is added. Platform 1 and 2 combined measure 1.2 x 2 metres and are the basis for adding all other play sections. Platform 2 provides access to the main platform or other sections. Allow 2m square of space for both platforms including ladder. If you plan to add the Swing Set, allow a further 3m of length. The Monkey Bar will need 2.1m of room. Additional open space is required around the equipment for a safe ‘free fall’ zone (refer plan detail). But if space is a problem, this gym’s versatile design can be modified to suit any backyard. For example, you could build just the platforms, adding sand pit and cubby roof to increase its play appeal. Or build just Platform 2 with the Monkey Bar. It’s up to you and your own special situation. But whatever you plan, the same general building instructions apply to all sections.

Play safeChildren take to swinging and climbing as naturally as monkeys. So safety is a big consideration. The first thing is to ensure there is plenty of room all around for boisterous swinging, so your site must be well clear of fences, trees, sheds and other fixed obstacles. The surface underneath must also be as soft as possible should a child fall. Grass and/or sand are not considered suitable. The safest surface is fine pine bark spread to a depth of 150-200mm. The recommended “safe fall distance/zone” around the perimeter of the play area is a minimum of 1500mm. For swings, the measurement is taken from the very end of the seat in full swing. There must also be no sharp edges or splinters to hurt children, so all timber surfaces should be thoroughly sanded and all sharp edges and corners rounded off to a 35mm radius using a disc sanding attachment. This applies to the ends of posts, and the ends of all square shaped timber such as rails, exposed roof beams, etc. All protruding bolt ends should also be cut off with a hacksaw 3mm above the nuts once they have been fully tightened, and then hammered to prevent the nuts coming loose and to totally remove any sharp edges on the sawn off bolt. Repeat this process after maintenance tensioning of all bolts the second time. This is particularly important with pigtail hooks to stop play equipment from falling down while a child is playing on it. Check the tightness of all bolts and nuts two weeks after completion, then on a regular basis. And carry out any maintenance to the frame as needed. Where exposed nuts could come in contact with children, the nut and washer should be recessed. First, cut the bolt 5-8mm shorter than the combined width of the material being fixed. Then drill and countersink the hole large enough to accept the nut and washer as well as a socket spanner to tighten the nut. The bolt end will still need to be burred over and smoothed to prevent the nut loosening and injury to little fingers. If adding a slide, be sure to follow

the manufacturer’s installation instructions exactly. In addition, you’ll need to fix one 38mm diameter vertical grab rail to each side at the top of the slide extending from the platform floor to the cubby roof frame.

Construction tipsBefore you begin building, here are some useful procedures common to all of the play gym sections. They’re only small “tricks of the trade”, but they will ensure that your frames are all solidly built, square and plumb.

Setting outDue to actual timber sizes and site conditions all quoted measurements should be physically checked on the job as work progresses (prior to cutting/drilling) and adjustments made as necessary. Lay out clearly the full extent of the area for the section you are building following the directions given. First, build eight corner hurdles from any suitable scrap timber and drive them in to the ground outside the area, two at each corner (Fig. 1 & 2). Fix nails in the hurdle cross-pieces to the plan dimensions and stretch stringline around to form a box (Fig. 2). Lines 1 and 2 should be equal length, 3 and 4 equal length. Measure the diagonally opposite corners (lines 5 and 6) for the set out to be square. Both diagonal measurements need to be the same. You may have to move the nails on the top of the hurdle cross-pieces until all lines are in the right position. Your “set out” is square when both diagonal measurements are the same and the outside lines are all parallel.

Setting the postsAll posts are set in concrete for stability. Dig holes 300mm square x 500mm deep ensuring that each post is centred in its hole with its outside edge just touching the string line. All post lengths allow for 150-200mm of fine soft-fall material above ground. Place a 250mm square x 50mm thick sole plate in the bottom of each hole and stand the post on it (Fig. 3). Ensure the thickest end of the post is the one in the hole.You’ll need to brace the post temporarily so it stands upright and plumb. To do this, nail two 50 x 25mm battens to two stakes, and knock the stakes firmly into the ground at right angles to each other (Fig. 4). Use a spirit level to check the post is plumb in all directions. Since all logs have irregularities and vary in width, the plumb line will need to be read from all four sides of the log and final position adjusted to average these readings. When all are plumb, temporarily nail the battens to the post. Avoid driving nails fully in – you’ll want to remove them later.

Now measure and mark up from the ground the required height on one post. Transfer that mark around to the other posts using a level or line level. Check again your measurements and level marks for accuracy. Code mark each post and its respective hole, then remove the posts, cut to length and round off the ends with a disc sander. Replace and brace the posts as previously. Ensure each is positioned correctly just touching the set out stringline and is perfectly plumb using a spirit level.

Finally, fill the holes with concrete to within 50mm of ground level and slightly sloping away from the posts as Fig. 3 (TIP: ensure corners and edges of the hole are well filled by tamping the concrete with a scrap piece of timber as you pour it in). Let harden overnight.

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fig. 5 ThE PLATfORMSThe two platforms are the heart of the play gym from which it can grow in size and play use. They provide the basis for adding all other sections.

Step 1: fix floor beamsAs previously described, set out the areas for both platforms and set the posts, ensuring that all are level with each other at the top. For Platform 1, measure 1035mm down from the top of relevant posts and mark the position for the top edge of the floor beam. For Platform 2, measure down and mark 1035mm allowing for a 300mm climbing step between platforms (Fig. 5). Now cut two 90 x 45 x 1200mm long beams for Platform 1 and two 900mm long beams for Platform 2. To fix each beam, first clamp it to the inside of the posts with the top edge on the pencil marks. Drill a 10mm hole through the centre of the post and beam (Fig. 6). Ensure holes are straight by marking both sides of the post and drawing a line around it to act as a drilling guide. Fit a 175 x 10mm galvanised bolt, washer and nut at each post and tighten firmly. Remember to cut off the excess bolt, burr and smooth over as described in “Play Safe”. For safety, bolt heads should be on the outside of posts and nuts and washers on the inside.

Step 2: Add flooringCut 16 pieces of 70 x 35 x 1200mm long floor boards for Platform 1 and 11 pieces 1200mm long for Platform 2. Note that a floor board at each end of the platform will need to be cut shorter to fit between the posts, and the one next to it trimmed to fit around the posts (Fig. 7). Allow a 5mm spacing between boards for drainage and nail to the beams with one 75mm galvanised flat head nail at each end. Punch all nails 2mm below the surface.

Step 3: Add guard railsThe guard rails are fixed to the outside of the posts. For Platform 1, cut six 70 x 35 x 1200mm long rails (two each open side). For Platform 2, cut two 70 x 35 x 1200mm long rails if adding the Monkey Bars – if not, cut an extra two rails 70 x 35 x 900mm long. Position the top edge of the top guard rail 800mm up from the platform floor and fix to the posts with a 90 x 8mm galvanised coach screw and washer at each end. The middle guard rail is located midway between the top rail and floor and fixed to the posts in the same way.

ADD A SAND PITNow that the platforms are in place, extend their use by adding a sand pit under Platform 1 (Fig. 8). Simply cut four 240 x 45 x 1200mm long boards. Measure and mark 50mm in from the ends of each board and 50mm from both end edges. Drill two 10mm holes through the boards at these markings. Place the boards on edge at the base of the platform on the outside of the posts and mark the hole positions on the post. Drill two 6mm holes into the posts. Fix the boards to the posts with 125 x 10mm galvanised coach screws and washers. (TIP: Mark coach screw holes on boards so that opposite screws do not interfere with each other). Round the exposed ends of the boards. Before adding sand, line the pit with Weed Mat to restrict plant growth and provide drainage.

SWING bARThis unit is shown set at right angles to the end of the Monkey Bars utilising one of its posts. Or, it can be free standing by setting two posts and following the rest of the instructions here.

Step 1: Prepare materialsCut a 100-125mm post to 1550mm long and stand in its hole on a sole plate. Check for plumb with a spirit level and temporarily brace. Measure up from the ground on both posts and mark the height of the swing bar, generally 700mm to 1000mm depending on the age or size of your child. Use stringline and a spirit level to ensure that the holes to be drilled at these marks for the swing bar line up straight and level. Then drill holes to suit the outside diameter of the galvanised pipe being used for the bar to a depth of 70mm using a spade bit, (TIP: a 44mm spade bit may be needed). Cut the pipe 1440mm long and smooth off both ends with a file.

Step 2: Assemble swing barPlace the swing bar through the hole in each post. Next, mark each post on the outside surface directly opposite the centre of the hole drilled for the swing bar. Drill a 8mm hole through both post and bar at this mark. Fit a 140 x 8mm coach bolt, washer and nut and tighten firmly to hold it all together and prevent the bar from rolling around while in use, cut, burr and smooth the end of the bolt. Finish by filling the post hole with concrete and allow to set for 24 hours.

A word of cautionPreservative-treated pine is harmless to humans, animals and plants. However, it is advisable to wear a mask and goggles while cutting or sanding the timber to avoid inhaling dust or irritating the eyes. Hands should also be thoroughly washed if not wearing gloves before eating or smoking after handling the timber. Offcuts or shavings must never be burnt, particularly on barbecues or in household fireplaces. The best method of disposal is to bury your offcuts or take to a rubbish tip.

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Tape measurePencilSquarePower saw, chainsaw or hand saw Power drillTwist drill bitsSelection of spade bits – 10mm, 12mm, 28mm, 38mm, 44mmSpade bit extension (optional)Spirit levelbuilders stringlineAdjustable spannerhammerhacksawShovelClampsDisc sanding AttachmentNail punchSocket spanner

Visit mitre10.com.au for more S

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MAkE ThE LADDERThe ladder is 840mm wide with three rungs spaced at 230mm centres (Fig. 9).

Step 1: Setting outFirst, square cut each end of the two 90 x 45mm side rails to 920mm long. Then clamp the two side rails together and mark out the rung positions on the 90mm wide face (Fig. 11). Measure up 230mm from one end and square a pencil line across both pieces. From this mark, measure up another 230mm and square a line across as before. Repeat the procedure for the final rung. With the side rails still clamped together, measure halfway (45mm) in from the edge of one side rail at each 230mm rung location and mark the centre for each rung hole. Drill 38mm holes through at these centre marks. To avoid unsightly splitting as you drill through, drill holes only until the tip of the drill bit just breaks the surface on the opposite face. Turn the clamped pieces over and drill out the balance of the holes from this side using the drill point as a location guide. Next, mark and cut the top and bottom ends of both side rails as shown (Fig. 10). Finally, cut three 38mm dowels to 840mm long for the rungs.

Step 2: Put it togetherUnclamp the sides and insert the rungs into both rails. Then lay the ladder on a flat and even surface. Check that the ladder is square and nail through the sides into the dowel rungs with 50mm galvanised flat head nails.

Step 3: fix to platformDig the 120 x 35 x 900mm base into the ground about 40mm or so. Then lean the ladder against the posts of the platform with the bottom positioned on the base board (Ref Fig. 9), drill a 8mm hole through the top of each rail and a 4mm hole into the posts, and fix to the posts with a 75 x 8mm galvanised coach screw and washer.

ADD A CubbY hOuSE ROOfChildren of all ages like cubby houses where they can hold secret meetings. By adding this easily made roof to Platform 1, your kids will love you forever.

Step 1: Make the frameThe pitch (or angle) of the roof is formed by six rafters, three per side, cut to 45 degrees. First cut the rafters 990mm long from 90 x 35mm treated pine. Mark and cut a 45 degree angle at each end . Be sure the mitred angles are cut as shown (Fig. 12). Assemble the rafters in pairs joining them at the top (the ridge point) with a 115 x 70mm gang nail plate fixed to each side (Fig. 13).

Step 2: Raise the roofAt this point, your job will be easier with a helper. With a person at each end, raise an end rafter frame in position against the outside of the corner posts (Fig. 14). Nail it in place temporarily. Then check that the overhang is equal on both sides before drilling a 10mm hole through each rafter and post and fixing permanently with a 175 x 10mm galvanised coach bolt, washer and nut. Fix the other end rafter frame in the same way. Next, cut two 90 x 35 x 1270mm long barge boards. Measure 35mm down from the top surface of the rafters (Fig. 15) and nail the barge board to the rafter ends at this point with two 75mm galvanised flat head nails. This allows the roofing to be fixed over the top of the barge. Position and fix the middle rafter frame midway between the end frames in the same way, ensuring the top edge is 35mm above the barge board.

Step 3: Add the roofingThe roof is made of 7 cedar weatherboards each side. First, cut 14 x 1350mm long cedar weatherboards, which allows a 40mm overhang at each end. Starting at the bottom on each side and overhanging the barge board by 25mm, nail the bottom of the first weatherboard to each rafter with a 50mm galvanised flat head nail. Before proceeding further with the roofing, check that the roof frame is plumb and square. Adjust to the correct position if necessary with temporary braces which are removed when the roofing is completed. Space the remaining boards up the rafters leaving an exposed surface of 150mm on each board, and fix in the same way. Finally, cut the two top weatherboards to suit the actual width needed to provide a neat, tight fit along the ridge.

Step 4: Add gable boardsFour board widths are nailed to the rafters at each end to complete the roof (Fig. 16). Cut the two 2400mm lengths of 150 x 25mm treated pine boards in half so there are four lengths 1200mm long. All pieces can be cut from these lengths as shown (Fig. 17). Nail to the rafters using two 50mm galvanised flat head nails at each side.

SWING SETOur unit shows a tyre swing and trapeze, which can be ordered from Mitre 10 stores. Or you could substitute other accessories such as a rope ladder. The choice is yours. If space is limited, you could build a free standing Swing Centre. Adding a Swing Set creates a centre of concentrated play activity. For this reason, barriers need to be installed to the platform, whether a sandpit is added or not, to prevent children from running out of one play area into the direct path of a swing or other activity. In addition, climbing from the platform onto the swing cross beam also needs to be prevented. The best way is to install trellis, or better still, 42 x 19mm treated pine vertical slats at 90mm max. spacings to two sides of the platform – the end directly facing the Swing Set and the side directly adjacent to it. Nail the trellis or slats to the facia, platform guard rails and additional 70 x 35mm guard rails fixed to the outside of the posts at floor level and above the sandpit boards with a 50mm galvanised flat head nail at each fixing point. If using vertical slats, spacing between slats must be 85mm-100mm (max). To install the swings, ensure the seats are no higher than 635mm above ground level and that there is a minimum of 350mm of ground clearance when laden.

Step 1: Measure cross beamMeasure and mark on the 100-125 x 3000mm log the exact locations of the end frames and for the pigtail hooks that hold up the play

equipment (Fig. 18). Make sure to mark the log so that any bow (camber) in it is uppermost when fitted to the end frame. Drill 12mm holes centrally through the beam for the

pigtail hooks only. Ensure the holes you drill are straight by marking both sides of the log and drawing a line around it to act as a drilling guide. Fit the pigtail hooks to the beam with washers and nuts and firmly tighten.

Step 2: Assemble end frameMeasure 350mm down from the top of two 100-125 x 3000mm logs (Fig. 20).Drill a 12mm hole through the centre of each log at this point. Join the two logs together with a 275 x 12mm coach bolt, washer and nut, finger tighten only. Space the legs 1800mm apart (Fig. 19). Measure 2000mm down from the join and temporarily nail a timber brace to each leg at this point. This represents ground level when erected. Finally, tighten nuts firmly.

Step 3: Dig holesLay the end frame on the ground measuring 2750mm from where the legs intersect to the structure the cross beam is to be joined to. Ensure the frame is square to the structure. Dig two holes as already explained, but angle them outwards to suit the angle of the legs. Note the legs are not parallel to each other, so holes will need to be off-set by the thickness of the logs, 100-125mm.

Step 4: InstallationStand the end frame upright in the holes on sole plates. Check plumb with your spirit level, then temporarily brace in position. Place the cross beam over the end frame and clamp the other end in position on the post it is to be joined to on the platform. Use a spirit level to ensure the beam is level and correctly positioned before drilling a 12mm hole through one post and into the beam.

Fix together with a 275 x 12mm coach bolt and tighten firmly with a washer and nut. Re-check for plumb and general position of the end frame, adjusting the temporary bracing as necessary. Drill a 10mm hole through the top of one leg into the cross beam, push a 275 x 10mm coach bolt through, fit a washer and nut, and tighten (Fig 20). Fill post holes with concrete and leave 24 hours to set before removing the temporary bracing and fitting the play accessories to the pigtail hooks.

MONkEY bARSOur unit shows it connected to Platform 2. But you can, if you wish, easily make a free standing unit by using four posts and modifying the instructions here to suit. The monkey bar top rails connect to the side of platform 1 post, and sit on top of platform 2 outside post.

Step 1: Prepare frameStart by cutting two 2100mm long top rails. Lay and clamp the rails together and mark the locations of the seven cross bars on each as

shown (Fig. 21). Lay out the logs so that when the Monkey Bar is erected, any bow (camber) in the logs is uppermost. Then, with a pencil, run a straight line along the length of each log in the centre and parallel with the sides of the log. Using a square, mark out the hole locations. In the centre of

each log at each location, drill a hole to match the outside diameter of the galvanised pipe (this should be 28mm) to a depth of 70mm(TIP: wrap sticky tape around the drill bit at the correct depth to avoid over-drilling). On the second cross bar hole in from each end of each rail, use a 10mm bit to drill through the balance of the log. These through holes are for threaded tension rods which will be tightened from the outside. Finally, cut two 2450mm long posts...seven cross bars of 20mm galvanised iron pipe 720mm long ... and two 70 x 35 x 900mm pine rungs.

Step 2: Erect the frameSpace out the two rails on a level surface, placing all cross bars into their holes. Maintain pressure on the rails to keep the bars in position. In the holes drilled completely through the log, pass a 900 x 10mm threaded rod and finger tighten each side with a washer and nut. Check the frame for square, then tighten nuts firmly. To prevent the crossbars from coming loose and turning, drill a 4.5mm hole into the log and through both walls of the cross bar only. With a 75mm galvanised nail, nail through the drilled holes into the undrilled section of the log. Punch the nail head 4mm below the surface. Should the nail point come out the underside of the log, hammer it over along the grain and punch the end 2 – 4mm below the surface.

Next, lay the posts 800mm apart on the ground. Keep them in position by nailing a temporary spreader 100mm down from the top and 600mm up from the bottom. After digging the holes, stand the posts upright on sole plates.

Check for plumb and temporarily brace as previously. If connecting to Platform 2, the two supporting posts at that end will need to have corresponding level marks to the endposts.

Now place the assembled frame on top of the end posts and clamp in position to the side of Platform 1 post, and sit on top of Platform 2 post. Where the rails are located on top of a post, the underside needs to be cut “flat” to a depth of 40mm for secure seating (Fig. 22). Fix the frame to the posts with 1000mm lengths of hoop iron and Tita Deck® galvanised nails (Fig. 22). Drill a 10mm hole through each rail but not into the posts. Secure the rail to the post with a 150 x 10mm galvanised coach screw and washer. Where rail ends connect to the side of Platform 1 post, drill a 12mm hole through the rail and post and fix with a 275 x 12mm galvanised coach bolt, washer and nut. Ensure the nut is to the outside of the frame, the bolt cut, burred and smoothed over as previously explained. Check again for plumb and straightness, before filling post holes with concrete. Allow to set for 24 hours.

Step 3: Complete the unitRemove the temporary spreaders and fix the two 70 x 35mm pine rungs to the base of the posts with one 90 x 8mm coach screw and washer each end (Fig. 23). Check all fixings are tight, paying particular attention that the cross bars are set all the way into their holes.

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All play centres are constructed of treated pine logs and timber, except for the cubby roof. However, as treated pine logs vary in diameter and taper to one end, you may have to slightly vary your measurements to suit. When setting posts, temporarily brace with 50 x 25mm OB (ordinary builders) hardwood battens.

Platform 1 Posts 4 – 100 – 125mm dia x 3000mm long treated pine or 100mm precision poles 4/3.0 Sole Plates 4 – 250 x 250 x 50mm treated pine rougher header F7 1/1.2 Floor Beams 1 – 90 x 45 x 2400mm long treated pine rougher header F7 1/2.4 Floor Boards 16 – 70 x 35 x 1200mm long treated pine rougher header F7 8/2.4 Hand Rails 6 – 700 x 35 x 1200mm long treated pine rougher header F7 3/2.4

(depending on quantity needed) Fasteners Pkt. 75mm galvanised flat head nails 12 – 90 x 8mm galvanised coach screws & washers 4 – 175 x 10mm galvanised coach bolts, nuts & washers Concrete 8 – bags pre-mixed concrete (2 bags per hole) Platform 2 Posts 2 – 100 – 125mm dia x 2700mm long treated pine or 100mm precision poles 2/2.7 Sole Plates 2 – 240 x 250 x 45mm treated pine rougher header F7 1/1.2 Floor Beams 1 – 90 x 45 x 1800mm long treated pine rougher header F7 1/1.8 Floor Boards 11 – 70 x 35 x 1200mm long treated pine rougher header F7 4/2.4 1/3.6 Hand Rails 2 – 70 x 35 x 1200mm long treated pine rougher header F7

(depending on quantity needed) 1/2.4 Fasteners Pkt. 75mm galvanised flat head nails

4 – 90 x 8mm galvanised coach screws & washers 4 – 175 x 10mm galvanised coach bolts, nuts & washers

Concrete 4 – bags pre-mixed concrete (2 bags per hole) Cubby house Roof Rafters 3 – 90 x 35 x 2100mm long – cut 6 x 990mm long 3/2.4

treated pine rougher header F7 Barge Boards 1 – 90 x 35 x 2700mm long – cut 2 x 1270mm long 1/2.7

treated pine rougher header F7 Gable Ends 2 – 150 x 25mm x 2400mm long treated pine 1/2.4 Roofing 7 – 200 x 2700mm long western red cedar weatherboards 7/2.7

(cut 14 x 1350mm) Fasteners 6 – 115 x 70mm galvanised gang nail plates 4 – 175 x 10mm galvanised coach bolts, nuts and washers Pkt 75mm galvanised flat head nails Pkt 50mm galvanised flat head nails Swing Set Cross Beam 1 – 100 – 125mm dia x 3000mm long treated pine or 100mm precision pole 1/3.0 End Frame 2 – 100 – 125mm dia x 3000mm long treated pine or 100mm 2/3.0

precision poles (4 if free standing) Sole Plates 2 – 250 x 240 x 45mm (4 if free standing) treated pine tougher header F7 1/0.6 Fasteners 1 – 275 x 10mm galvanised coach bolts, nuts & washers (2 if free standing) 2 – 275 x 12mm galvanised coachbolts, nuts & washers Hooks 4 – pigtail hooks Swings 1 – trapeze bar & ropes, 1 tyre swing seat & ropes Concrete 4 – bags pre-mixed concrete (2 bags per hole) Ladder Side Rails 2 – 90 x 45 x 1200mm long treated pine rougher header F7 1/2.4 Rungs 3 – 38 diam. x h/wood dowell 900mm long 1/2.7 Base Plate 1 – 140 x 35 x 900mm long treated pine rougher header F7 1/1.2 Fasteners Pkt 50mm galvanised flat head nails 2 – 75 x 8mm galvanised coach screws & washers Sand Pit Sides 4 – 240 x 45 x 1200mm long boards treated pine rougher header F7 2/2.4 Fasteners 16 – 125 x 10mm galvanised coach screws & washers Weed Mat Piece 1200 x 1200mm square Sand 0.3 cubic metre washed sand Monkey Bar Posts 2 – 100 – 125mm dia x 2700mm long or 100mm precision poles 2/2.7

(4 if free standing) Top Rails 2 – 100 – 125mm dia x 2100mm long treated pine or 100mm precision poles 2/2.1 Sole Plates 2 – 250 x 240 x 45mm (4 if free standing) 1/0.6

treated pine rougher header F7 Step Rungs 2 – 70 x 35 x 800mm long (4 if free standing) 1/1.8

treated pine rougher header F7 Swing Bars 7 – 20 x 720mm galvanised water pipe 2 – 10mm x 900mm long galvanised all-threaded rod Fasteners 4 – 10mm galvanised nuts & washers (for threaded rod) 3000mm long hoop iron 4 – 90 x 8mm galvanised coach screws & washers 3 – 150 x 10mm galvanised coach screws & washers (4 if free standing) 1 – 275 x 12mm galvanised coach bolt, nut & washer Pkt 75mm galvanised bullet head nails Pkt 50mm TitaDeck® galvanised nails Concrete 4 – bags pre-mixed concrete (8 if free-standing) Swing bar Posts 1 – 100 – 125mm dia x 1800mm long treated pine or 100mm precision pole 1/1.8

(2 if free standing) Sole Plate 1 – 250 x 240 x 45mm (2 if free standing) treated pine rougher header F7 1/0.6 Swing Bar 1 – 38 x 1440mm long mild galvanised water pipe Fasteners 2 – 140 x 8mm galvanised coach bolt, nut & washer Concrete 2 – bags pre-mixed concrete barrier 20 – 42 x 19 x 2400mm long (or trellis)

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Verbal quotes are indicative only. Written quotes on materials are available upon request from your Mitre 10 store.

TIMbER

MIGhTY hELPfuL ChECkLIST✓

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