Bordeaux 2009 futures

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1034 Davie Street, Vancouver, BC, Canada, V6E 1M3 | 1.800.589.2804 | www.marquis-wines.com

BENEFITS OFORDERING

2009 BORDEAUX FUTURES

DELIVERY ARRANGED WITH CASE ORDERS WITHIN METRO VANCOUVER

Winter 2011

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Greetings from the ownerBy the time I traveled to France in March of this year to attend the annual “En Primeur” tastings in Bordeaux, I had been hearing rumours and gos-sip about the greatness of the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux for many months already. Terms like “vintage of the century”, “best vintage ever” and “great-est year since 1982” were all being used. However, since I am a bit of a cynic and since the Bordelaise use these same terms every couple of years, I decided that I needed to keep an open mind and let the wines speak for them-selves before passing judgement about the vintage. Nonetheless, I could not wait to taste the wines to see, as if Mr. Parker claimed, that some of the wines were going to be “our children’s children’s children’s elixir.”

After spending 4 days tasting through countless wines, I arrived at my conclusion. This truly was a great vintage, that had created some extremely profound and stunning wines. The quality and complexity of the best wines was astounding and un-like any wines produced in Bordeaux that I had ever tasted. My only qualm was that I found the overall quality of the 2009 vintage to be somewhat variable as certain appellations did not maximize their potential and while many great wines were created, I would give 2005 a slight edge in terms of overall consistency.

The 2009 vintage can best be described as the year of Cabernet Sauvignon. The greatest wines were made in the Médoc and Graves where Cabernet Sauvignon was able to reach un-precedented levels of maturity thanks to a near perfect growing season. The spring, summer and fall were hot but not excessively so, which meant that the vines were stressed but never so much so that they were forced to shut down and rainfall came at just the right mo-ment to keep the vines active and vigorous. Wines that are Cabernet Sauvi-gnon dominant, display a whole range of characteristics. They are powerful, concentrated and possess a sweetness of tannins never seen before while maintaining opulence, freshness, vibrancy and precision. They will be delicious in their youth but if you have the patience to sit on these wines for many years, you will be greatly rewarded by some long-term cellaring.

The story in St. Émillion and Pomerol is a bit more complicated. While many great wines were produced in these two Appellations, the overall quality was more inconsistent than on the Left Bank. This meant that I had to be a lot more selective when choosing those wines which I wished to purchase and you will see that the number of our Left Bank selections far outnumber those from the Right Bank.

As you peruse the pages of this year’s offering, you will notice that the prices for Futures have returned to levels that are as high or even higher than those of 2005, 2006 and 2007. The sensible pricing that enjoyed during the 2008 campaign has gone by the wayside and with the great-ness and hype surrounding the 2009’s, the Bordelaise have raised their prices to un-precedented levels. Of course the high demand, booming economies and a seemingly un-satiable demand for top end Bordeaux in the Far East are not helping matters either. Even the relatively weak Euro has had a limited impact on overall pricing. The high pricing forced me to change my buying strategy, so you will notice that many wines that we have carried in the past are not offered this year. Nonetheless, I am very proud of the fine selection of wines we have in our offering. I am also very pleased to introduce many new wines, that are all exceptional values. Even if you are not familiar with some of these wines, I strongly suggest trying a few of them as they represent some of the best value that Bordeaux currently has to offer.

I invite you to explore the pages of this year’s offering and if you need any assistance or guidance in making your selections, please feel free to call me directly, 604-684-0445 or e-mail me should you have any questions at [email protected]

Sincerely,

John Clerides, owner of Marquis Wine Cellars

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Marquis Wine Cellars1034 Davie Street

Vancouver BC CanadaV6E 1M3 T: 604-684-0445 F: 604-684-2471

www.marquis-wines.com

Open from 11am to 9pm every day Closed Christmas Day

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Marquis Wine Cellars wants to make sure that you stay up-to-date on what is happening at our store: latest arrivals; newest producers, up-coming tastings and events. Sign up for our enewsletters at www.marquis-wines.com to catch up on what you might have missed. Once you sign up for the newsletter, you will receive a coupon for 10% off your first purchase here at the store. Thanks, and enjoy!

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Please keep reading for our rates, our guarantees, and for basic delivery information, keeping in mind that we are not permitted to ship outside the province of British Columbia.

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We Believe...

I still can remember the January morning in 1986 when my dad and I were sitting at his kitchen table; he was drinking Greek coffee reading the Vancouver Province newspaper. I snagged the sports section from him as I wanted to look over the hockey scores from the night before.

With his glasses perched on the edge of his nose, he turned to me and said, “hey zun; look at this, whadda ya think?” He showed me an article about a fellow who was selling wine store franchises.

At that time private wine shops were not allowed in British Columbia, all the stores were government owned. I told my dad I thought this looked like a pretty good idea. We also agreed that many other people have done pretty well in the wine business and that we should give it a shot. We talked about it for a while longer and then he then told me why don’t you call them, so I did.

This was my first lesson on government bureaucracy. I am not sure on the precise series of events, we signed a variety of papers, I had meetings with the liquor board, and it was all very official and at times intimidating and frustrating. We persevered and some ten months later, November 19, 1986, we opened. Our first day of sales was about $110.00.

We soon woke up to the reality of the wine business in British Columbia; our dreams of wine being wine barons were quickly diminished, we were only allowed to carry British Columbia wine from one winery and their cider and coolers.As serendipity would have it, two years later the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and the General Agreement of Tariffs and Treaties (GATT) were ratified. These two agreements grandfathered the wine stores and allowed us to carry American wines and other imported wines respectively. This set the foundation in place, allowing me to pursue my dream of building Marquis Wine Cellars into one of the finest wine stores in North America.

Small Article Needed

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Table of Contents2. John’s Introduction

3. Table of Contents

4. Château Beaulieu, Château Bolaire, Château Potensac, Château Belle-Vue, Château Cambon La Pelouse

5. Map of Bordeaux

6. Château Sénéjac, Château Sociando-Mallet, Château Calon-Ségur

7. Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Lilian Ladouys, Château Meyney, Château Tronquoy-Lalande, Les Pagodes de Cos

8. Château Clerc Milon, Château d’Armailhac

9. Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Château Latour, Château Mouton-Rothschild

10. Château Pédesclaux, Château Pichon-Baron, Château Beychevelle

11. Château Branaire-Ducru, Château Gloria, Château Léoville-Barton

12. Château Léoville-Las Cases, Château Léoville-Poyferré

13. Clos du Marquis, Château Lascombes, Château Margaux

14. Château Palmer, Château Prieure-Lichine

15. Château Rauzan-Gassies, Château Rauzan-Ségla, Château Haut-Brion, Château Pape-Clément

16. Château de Malle 375ml, Château Filhot 375ml, Château La Tour Blanche 375ml

17. Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 375ml, Château l’Estang, Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, Château Bellefont-Belcier, Château Corbin

18. Château Franc-Mayne, Château Grand Mayne, Château Grand-Pontet, Château l’Arrosée, Château La Tour du Pin

19. Château Troplong Mondot, Château Beauregard, Château Gazin, Château La Croix de Gay

20. Château La Croix Saint Georges, Château Le Gay, Château Vrai Canon Bouché

21. Photos of Bordeaux

22. Mission Statement

23. Location & Hours

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Wine CommunityMarquis Wine Cellars wants to make sure that you stay up-to-date on what is happening at our store: latest arrivals; newest producers, up-coming tastings and events. Sign up for our enewsletters at www.marquis-wines.com to catch up on what you might have missed. Once you sign up for the newsletter, you will receive a coupon for 10% off your first purchase here at the store. Thanks, and enjoy!

03

Château Beaulieu “Comtes de Tastes” $24.90

“A minerally and fruity wine, but subdued and balanced. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a long finish.”

- Wine Spectator Online 88-91

Château Bolaire $26.90“Another exclusivity of négociant Jeffrey Davies, this wine seems built to evolve for up to a decade or more. A blend of 40% Merlot, a whopping 35% Petit

Verdot, and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon that all tip the scales at 14% natural alcohol, the result is a wine with loads of structure that seems more backward than many of its peers, especially at this price point, but displays an impressive concentration of black currant and black cherry fruit with some licorice and spicy oak. This is a seriously endowed wine that needs to shed some tannin, but it is all there. Give it a year or so of bottle age and drink it over the following decade.”

- Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #188 88-90+ points

“This is fabulous, with loads of ripe and concentrated berry, spicy fruit. Full and very rich. Velvety tannins. 40 percent Merlot, 35 percent Petit Verdot and 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.”

- Wine Spectator Online 90-93 points

Château Potensac $48.90“A sleeper of the vintage, the 2009 is probably the finest Potensac ever made, eclipsing even the stunning 1982. This

blend, dominated by both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, hit 13.9% alcohol, but the pH is a normal 3.58. Dense, rich, and full-bodied with lots of freshness, the wine reveals abundant red and black currant fruit, a distinctive minerality, and a plush, full-bodied mouthfeel. It should drink well for 10-15+ years.”

- Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #188 89-91 points

“(A blend of 48% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc) Dark purple-tinged ruby. Initially reticent nose opens with air to reveal Cabernet Franc-driven strawberry, violet, cocoa and mineral aromas. Then broad and chunky in the mouth, with red berry and black cherry flavors complicated by a welcome element of minerality. Became increasingly graceful with air, finishing long and vibrant, with very fine tannins. Deeper and more complex than usual for this wine, and a great success of the vintage. This wine avoids the excessive ripeness of many other ‘09s.”

- Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 10 89-91 points

“Intense aromas of currant and blackberry, with hints of licorice, follow through to a full body, with a balance of tannins and a spearmint and mineral aftertaste.”


Château Belle-Vue $34.90“Not to be confused with St.-Émilion’s Bellevue, this has been one of the most consistent Médoc cru bourgeois over a number of years, and

the 2009 may reach new quality heights. A big-time sleeper of the vintage, this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 20% Petit Verdot boasts a dense purple color as well as notes of creme de cassis and spring flowers, terrific fruit, sweet but noticeable tannin, and medium to full body. It can be drunk young or cellared for 8-10 years.”


“Silky and beautiful, with berry and dark chocolate aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, polished tannins.”


Château Cambon La Pelouse $34.90

“Pretty aromas of currant and berries, with a mineral undertone. Medium-bodied, with firm tannins and a fruity

finish. Nice wood under it all. Well-crafted young red. Could be best ever from here.”


Bordeaux SupérieurBordeaux Supérieur is a generic Bordeaux appellation. It encompasses parts of the Left Bank and Right Bank, as well as the area between the two, known as Entre-Deux-Mers. The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée requires an extra 1/2 degree of alcohol over the Bordeaux AOC to have the Supérieur designation. It is very important to be selective, as the quality of the wines varies depending upon where the grapes are sourced.

Left BankThe Left Bank is the wine region of Bordeaux located on the west side of the Garonne River. It includes the appellations of Haut-Médoc, Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Listrac, Moulis, Margaux, Pessac-Léognan, Graves and Sauternes. The red wines from the Left Bank are generally dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and sometimes Petit Verdot and Malbec. The whites are generally made from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon and can have a small amount of Muscadelle. In the 2009 reds, a higher than normal percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon was used in many blends, which produced wines with strong tannins and great concentration. These should enjoy 15-20 years of life, but many will still be accessible young.

MédocThe Médoc extends northwest of the city of Bordeaux. It is divided into Haut-Médoc, where the classified growths are also found, and the Bas Médoc, located further north on the marshes at the mouth of the Gironde River. Although the appellation technically covers the entire Médoc, most wines of the Médoc come from the Bas-Médoc.

04

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Just Arrived!From South Africa, the wines of Springfontein! From New Zealand, check out the one and only ‘Supernatural’ Sauvignon Blanc! Other recent arrivals include Domaine Reuilly from The Loire, the truly incredible 2009 Antica Terra Pinot Noir, and the always popular Bishop’s Peak wines from Southern California!

John at a Château in Bordeaux

A 1975 Bottle of Château Haut Brion John and Wine Critic Stephen Tanzer

John at Château Cos d’Estournel

“Mineral, blueberry and wet earth aromas follow through to a full body, with pretty, velvety tannins and a long coffee, chocolate, vanilla and fruit aftertaste.”


Château La Croix Saint Georges $89.90

“Another property owned by the young, energetic, seriously talented Jean-Philippe Janoueix, this wine is looked over by Michel Rolland’s top assistant, Jean-Philippe Fort. A blend of 94% Merlot

and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon made from low yields of less than two tons of fruit per acre, the 2009 was relatively reticent when I tasted it. It exhibits a dense ruby/purple color along with hints of espresso roast, white chocolate, charcoal, and black fruits. Dense and full-bodied, but unevolved, it requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should drink well over the following 15-20.”


“Black olive on the nose, with flowers and fruit. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a racy finish. There’s plenty of subtle fruit and a dark chocolate finish. Firm and silky. 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.”


Château Le Gay $189.90“I tasted this wine three times, and while Michel Rolland thinks it is the finest Le Gay yet made, I must disagree. For now, I think it comes in behind the 2008 and 2005. There is no question it is an

outstanding wine, but I feel it lacks the concentration and intensity that put both the 2008 and 2005 in the superstar category. Yields of 25 hectoliters per hectare were extremely low, and the final blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc achieved 13.5% natural alcohol. A dark ruby (but not opaque) color is followed by aromas of sweet raspberries and black currants with dusty, earthy, loamy soil notes in the background. The wine is medium to full-

bodied and rich, but much lighter and less intense than I expected given the vintage conditions. Three separate tastings over the course of 12 days were inconsistent.”


“Inky purple. Pretty aromas of ripe black cherry, cassis and truffle. Then dense and almost massive on the palate, with rich flavors of black plum, cassis and cocoa coating the palate. My enthusiasm was muted by a mouthpuckering tannic astringency. This big, full-bodied Pomerol might yet come around, but I doubt it will ever be remembered as a particularly graceful or charming Le Gay. This struck me as rather heavily extracted.”


“Blueberry, sea shell and blackberry aromas. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins, yet polished and cool, with a long, racy finish. Dense, with a solid core of everything.”


Château Vrai Canon Bouché $44.90

“One of the stars of Canon-Fronsac, this 30-acre vineyard is making some great wine, and the 2009 appears to be

the finest they have yet produced. The Dutch owners brought in Stephane Derenoncourt as consultant, and the 2009 (98% Merlot and 2% Malbec) tips the scales at 14.5% natural alcohol. Full-bodied with an inky/blue/purple color it represents the essence of blackberries, black raspberries, cassis, licorice, crushed rocks, and subtle oak. The high alcohol and all evidence of oak aging are completely buried under the sheer concentration (in this case coming from low yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare). A big time sleeper of the vintage, it should age effortlessly for 25-30 years.”


“Currant and spices on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied, but with a slightly lean finish.”


Canon-FronsacOften underrated, this appellation can produce great wine, especially in hot vintages such as 2003. Yields are more restricted then in Fronsac and the quality tend to be superior. Much investment has been made over the last years and the standard have been rising consistently. The best châteaux can produce wines capable of challenging those of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion.

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Haut-MédocHaut-Médoc is the southern half of the Médoc. The vineyards are located on higher ground and benefit from better exposure than the Bas-Médoc. Those vineyards that are not entitled to one of the commune appellations, such as Margaux or Pauillac, are designated as Haut-Médoc. Many of these wines belong to a class known as Cru Bourgeois, the category just below the classified growths. The Haut-Médoc offers excellent wines, often challenging the quality of the most famous communes, at a lesser price.

Saint-EstèpheSaint-Estèphe is the northern-most commune appellation in Haut-Médoc. The wines from this commune tend to be austere and robust in their youth, needing some fairly long ageing to show their best. Since the 1980’s however, the trend has been to craft wines with a higher percentage of Merlot, thus making the wines approachable earlier. In 2009, Saint-Estèphe produced wines that will be somewhat tannic and backward in their youth. But give them some time and these Cabernet dominated wines that will surely be long lived and come into their own in their youth.

Château Sénéjac $34.90“Run by the Cordier family, with the vineyard managed by Alfred Tesseron’s team at Pontet-Canet, this is

the first vintage from their biodynamically farmed estate, and it is certainly the best wine I have ever tasted from Sénéjac. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, oodles of black currant fruit are intermixed with some licorice, underbrush, and foresty notes. Great fruit, a sumptuous, fleshy texture, and plenty of succulence and length make for a big, rich, nicely textured wine to drink over the next decade.”


“Berry and earthy, spicy character. Toasted oak. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins. A little hollow.”


Château Sociando-Mallet $76.90“Ferocious tannins are not unusual for

Sociando-Mallet, but I was surprised that in a vintage that produced exceptionally tannic, but ripe wines, the Sociando Mallet tannins were

atypically austere. Nevertheless, the wine boasts huge concentration along with an inky/purple color, a full-bodied, powerful palate, and a long finish. Excellent purity, density, and minerality are present in this cuvee, and it is capable of lasting 30-40 years. This estate is situated on some of the finest terroir of the Haut-Médoc, near Calon-Ségur in St.-Estèphe.”


“Deep ruby. Blackcurrant, licorice, underbrush and smoky oak on the inviting nose, with hints of tobacco and minerals. Dense and chewy in the mouth, with brooding, ripe flavors of blackberry, dark plum and smoky, chocolatey oak given lift by firm acidity. Finishes with subtle length but its assertive tannins will require at least several years of patience once this wine is released. I’m a big fan of this overachieving property, which for my money usually produces one of the top five or six values in all of Bordeaux. That said, I wonder if this chunky wine has the concentration to

surpass top recent releases.”


“Love the nose of currant and mineral, with hints of mint. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish. Tannic. Maybe too much. But I think it’s going to come out excellent.”


Château Calon-Ségur $136.90“Made in a very different style for this estate, the 2009 is composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon (the highest I have ever seen here), 7% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot,

and achieved 13.8% natural alcohol. It is a big, rich, tannic, structured, dense ruby/purple-tinged wine offering a sweet kiss of creme de cassis, loamy soil, and spice box. Remarkably, despite the use of 100% new oak because of the 2009’s power and intensity, there is not a hint of wood in either the aromatic or flavor profile. Never that showy from cask, this traditionally made St.-Estephe should be forgotten for 10-15 years, and drunk over the following 40-50 years. My rating is very conservative, and I expect it to rise considerably as this wine comes out of its infancy.”


“(A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot) Bright ruby-red. Exhilarating nose awash with fresh blackberry, blackcurrant, mineral, violet and rose aromas. Absolutely seamless on entry, with a beautiful mineral underpinning to the pure red cherry, fresh blackcurrant and blackberry flavors. Long and very pure on the finish, showing extremely polished tannins. This is like an essence of almost weightless yet highly concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon as only (great) Bordeaux can deliver. The lively but harmonious acids make it seem almost too light and breezy for a wine that will age effortlessly for decades-proof-positive, by the way, that a wine does not have to be analytically monstrous (this ‘09 has an IPT, or indice de polyphenols totaux of 71) to be long-lived, as long as it’s balanced.”


06

great purity, sweet tannins, and a heady, long finish. The alcohol level must be more than 14% given the glycerin content and the wine’s thickness. It should drink well for 15+ years.”


‘Soft and silky, with round and fine tannins. Medium- to full-bodied, with lovely texture and fresh acidity. Long and inviting.”


Château Troplong Mondot $234.90

“I tasted this wine four separate times, with three tastings extremely consistent, and one tasting showing slightly

more noticeable and astringent tannin. Do I think it is going to be as prodigious as the 2005? No, but it is a compelling Troplong Mondot, and probably more approachable than the 2005 has been in its youth. This is a large vineyard, nearly 80 acres in size, and part of it had hail damage in May. They are late-harvesters, the Merlots were picked through October 10 and the Cabernet finished October 20, with very low yields of 30 hectoliters per hectare, no doubt due at least in part to the hail damage. Alcohols on lots chosen for the grand vin are very high, between 14.5 and 15.5. The wine is inky purple in color, displaying beautiful creme de cassis, licorice, subtle smoke and graphite notes, enormous body, juicy, viscous texture, good vibrancy, a skyscraper-like, multi-dimensional mouthfeel, and a whopping long finish of 40+ seconds. This is a great wine, probably more hedonistic and voluptuous than the 2005, but ultimately a tiny notch below that virtually perfect Troplong Mondot, which still gets my nod as the best ever made. This wine should evolve for at least 30-40 years.”


“(A blend of 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc) Inky black-ruby. Slightly gamey, highly aromatic nose combines cassis, plum jam, blood orange, incense and soy sauce. Then outsized but supple and fresh, with spicy plum, cedar and rosemary-oregano flavors supported by ultra-smooth tannins and lingering with outstanding persistence. This is one of the best young Troplong-Mondots

I can recall: perhaps slightly overdone (though not overripe), but it’s hard to argue with this much sex appeal.”


“Intense aromas of blackberry and blueberry follow through to a full body, with well-integrated tannins and a fruity finish. Offers lots of licorice and spice. There’s lovely length to this. Reserved and pretty’


Château Beauregard $74.90“While Beauregard’s wines have a tendency to be monolithic and oaky, the 2009 is one of the finest I have

tasted from this estate. Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by copious quantities of licorice, blackberry, and mulberry characteristics as well as silky tannins, a sweet, fat mid-palate, and a long finish with just a hint of oak. It should drink well for 10-15+ years.”


“Good full ruby. Inviting nose shows pinot-like aromas of fresh raspberry, strawberry, violet and underbrush, plus a whiff of leather. Easygoing and sweet, with pliant flavors of black cherry, dark berries and smoky underbrush given adequate lift and precision by sound acids. Finishes with round, chocolatey tannins and good length. Not particularly gripping, but offers the charm of Pomerol Merlot.”


“A little lean, but some good berry and sweet tobacco character, with a nice hint of new wood.”


Château Gazin $124.90“Ferocious extract, huge tannin, an opaque purple color, and enormous richness all make for a potentially brilliant wine from this vineyard, located on the plateau of Pomerol

just adjacent to Petrus. Probably a late finisher of malolactic given its showing on

three separate occasions, this wine, which is enormously endowed, very rich, and full-bodied, has a chance to be the best Gazin ever made. However, patience will be a virtue, as the wine will certainly need 5-8 years of cellaring.”


“(90% Merlot, the rest Cabernets) Ruby-purple with inky highlights. Enticing Pomerol aromas of violet, cocoa, coffee and sweet spices complicated by smoked meat and iron. Supple and smooth on entry, with lovely red berry and black cherry flavors joined on the back by spicy plum component. Starts smooth, but turns chalky, even slightly austere, on the tannic finish. This will need time.”


“Blackberry and light tar aromas follow through to a full body, with soft and velvety tannins and a fruity finish.”


Château La Croix de Gay $58.90“One of the finest efforts I have ever tasted

from La Croix de Gay, this dark ruby/purple-tinged 2009 offers up aromas of crushed raspberries, black cherries, vanillin, truffles, and caramel. Deep, richly fruity, and medium to full-bodied,

with more substance and generosity than most vintages possess, the tannins are sweet and the finish is impressive as well as long. There is not a hard edge to be found in this 2009. It should drink well for 15-25 years.”


“Deep ruby. Obvious oaky torrefaction currently masks the aromas of cassis, dark chocolate and coffee. Smooth and deep, delivering ripe black fruit, coffee and cocoa flavors. Finishes vibrant, pure and long; this is so light on its feet that it almost seems slight, but has subtle concentration and length. A less ripe and showy style than many ‘09 Bordeaux but should make a lovely drink.”


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PomerolMerlot is without a doubt the king of this 784 hectare appellation. Given the right weather conditions, it produces lush, rich and voluptuous wines that are very approachable in their youth but also have the ability to age. In 2009, Pomerol was the one area of Bordeaux that experienced the most variance with “terroir” and soil composition playing a major role in determining the quality of wine produced. The top wines, however, have serious ageing potential. Don’t miss out on any of these rare gems.

Château Franc-Mayne $65.90“Probably the best effort this estate has produced to date, this very voluptuously textured, soft, silky, full-bodied

wine displays oodles of red and black fruits intermixed with licorice, underbrush, and foresty notes. It is dense, hedonistic, and certainly the best I have ever tasted from Franc Mayne. Moreover, an advantage will be its early drinkability, although it is certainly capable of lasting 15 or more years.”


Château Grand Mayne $74.90“I enjoy this wine in nearly every vintage (the 1998 was one of my all-time favorites), and while the 2009 may not be better than the 1998, it is an

impressive effort. Moreover, it represents a great value in top-notch Bordeaux. Its opaque purple color is followed by plenty of blueberry, boysenberry, and raspberry fruit notes intermixed with subtle hints of graphite and oak. The wine possesses ripe tannin, full-bodied power, admirable purity, and impressive amounts of glycerin and sweetness from its high ripeness (but not over-ripeness) in the finish. Consume it over the next 15+ years.”


“Blueberry and floral aromas follow through to a full body, with silky tannins and a long finish. Stylish and polished. This is a more reserved style and I like it.”


Château Grand-Pontet $63.90“Sylvie Pourquet owns this property and has produced a wine of 70% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Michel Rolland’s top assistant, Jean

Philippe Fort, is the consultant. Alcohol here hit 14.5%, which seems to be a target for many St.-Emilions in 2009. This wine has a dense purple color, a sweet nose of red

and black currants intermixed with incense, subtle background oak, fleshy, open-knit, light, opulent flavors, silky tannins, and a long, exuberant, even flamboyant finish, with terrific purity and overall balance. It should drink well for 15 or more years.”


Château l’Arrosée $76.90“This outstanding l’Arrosée is consistent with the Burgundian style that this terroir routinely produces.

Never massive, at its best it offers intense flavors of kirsch, raspberry, crushed rock, and spice box. The full-bodied flavors are ethereal in their delicacy. Full, but stylish, precise, intense, and never heavy, this beauty can be drunk early or cellared for two decades or more.”


“Bright ruby-red. Superripe aromas of strawberry, red cherry and cedar are nicely lifted by a floral note. Smooth and creamy on entry, with flavors similar to the aromas. Soft, polished tannins contribute to the textural appeal of this highly successful wine, which should offer early appeal. This estate has been wildly inconsistent for a long time, although recent vintages have been more promising. Certainly the terroir here is intriguing: essentially a prolongation of the Ausone slope, with the soil higher up on the plateau mainly clay and limestone, and the portion at the foot of the hillside more sandy.”


“Silky and very pretty with cedar and chocolate aromas and flavors. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a clean finish.”


Château La Tour du Pin $73.90“A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet

Franc grown in clay and gravel soils, the 2009 La Tour du Pin is the finest wine I have ever tasted from this property. It reveals terrific fruit

intensity along with a full-bodied unctuosity,

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“Delivers gorgeous aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice, with hints of tobacco and spice. Full-bodied, offering a lovely texture and refinement. Very long and beautiful, with tangy acidity and lively fruit. A rich, yet very balanced, Calon. This is almost all Cabernet Sauvignon instead of the normal blend with 40 percent Merlot. The château is now using 100 percent new wood. Like the changes.”


Château Cos d’Estournel $524.90“The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is one of the

greatest young wines I have ever tasted ... in the world! An extraordinary effort I tasted on two separate occasions, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest

primarily Merlot with a dollop of Cabernet Franc has a whopping 14.5% alcohol, but a remarkably normal pH of 3.69. Kudos to Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier for this amazing wine made from yields of 33 hectoliters per hectare. It will be a legendary claret that should last for 50-60 years. A black/purple color is accompanied by aromas of graphite, ink, creme de cassis, blackberries, cedar, and incense. Full-bodied and unctuously textured, with an ethereal personality, tons of nuances, and a burgeoning complexity, it is an enormously well-endowed, fresh, perfectly balanced tour de force in winemaking. As mentioned above, it should drink well for 50-60 years. This wine possesses this vintage’s classic characteristics of enormous power, massive fruit, and extraordinary freshness and precision - largely unprecedented, particularly for Cabernet-based wines in the Médoc.”


“(A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc). Inky purple. Extremely ripe aromas of red fruits macerated in alcohol, espresso and dark chocolate (almost Banyuls- or port-like), with a more refreshing floral element emerging with aeration. Enters the mouth smooth, sweet and floral, with a velvety texture, but then turns slightly hollow in the mid-palate, hinting at overripe red cherry and dark plum flavors. Finishes dry and a touch astringent (heat-stressed merlot?). By no means a bad wine, but this version of Cos has more in common with a late-

harvested negroamaro from southern Italy or an overripe fruit bomb from Napa than a fine Medoc wine. As much as I liked the 2008, I find this wine overdone, and I don’t believe it will improve much with time.”

- Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 10 88-90? points

“This smells like Harlan a bit. Supercharged in fruit, with intense aromas of tar, spice, cardamon, clove, blackberry and black pepper. Crazy nose. Full-bodied, with masses of fruit, yet focused and in form. Chewy tannins, with great length. This goes on and on. Incredibly exotic. Could be best ever from here?”

- Wine Spectator Online 97-100 points Château Beaulieu “Comtes de Tastes” $24.90

“A minerally and fruity wine, but subdued and balanced. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a long finish.”


Château Lilian Ladouys $37.90“This solid, somewhat monolithic effort is better than usual, and it’s good to see this estate moving in the right direction. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40%

Merlot, it exhibits a dark purple color, dusty tannins, a hint of herbs, and plenty of power and richness. Consume it over the next 10 years.”


“Dark color, with a spiced nose of cloves and cardamom. Tar too. Full-bodied, with round and velvety tannins and a rich, fruity aftertaste. Gorgeous young wine.”


Château Meyney $56.90“While the 2009 is a good effort, this property has not yet returned to the form it possessed in the seventies and early eighties. The cleanly made 2009 reveals notes

of dusty black currants, spice box, earth, and licorice, and a medium-bodied, fresh,

lively style. It just lacks the extra dimension encountered in most 2009s. Drink it over the next 10 years.”


“Spicy and beautiful, delivering blackberry and currant character. Full and silky, with beautiful fruit and a long finish.”


Château Tronquoy-Lalande $62.90

“The 2009 Tronquoy-Lalande (a blend of 51% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Petit Verdot) boasts a dense purple color along

with a beautiful bouquet of boysenberries, spring flowers, black currants, and a hint of ink, a full-bodied, supple, opulent mouthfeel, and a long finish. It should drink nicely for 10-15 years.”


“(A blend of 51% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot) Deep ruby-purple. Very refined, classic Bordeaux aromas of violet, cedar and graphite; the Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon really dominate the Merlot. Sweet, ripe red berry fruit shows an almost liqueur-like creaminess, but a peppery element and good underlying minerality lend grip to the finish, which features slightly dry, mouthcoating tannins and nice cedary persistence. A very successful wine that calls for a few years of cellaring and should drink well until 2025.”


“Mineral, with raspberry and blueberry on the nose. Full and powerful, with a lovely ripe tannin structure and a long raspberry finish. Same owners as Montrose and same winemaker, Jean Delmas.”


Les Pagodes de Cos $99.90“The 2009 Les Pagodes de Cos is also a remarkable offering. Composed of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon,

30% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot, it tips the scales at 14.5% alcohol, and is better than

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most Cos d’Estournel vintages produced in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. It is a

full-bodied, opulently concentrated wine of amazing richness, density, and intensity. As with the grand vin, the harvest began on September 26 and finished on October 10. This wine possesses this vintage’s classic characteristics of enormous power, massive fruit, and extraordinary freshness and precision - largely unprecedented, particularly for Cabernetbased wines in the Medoc.”


“(69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot; 14.5% alcohol) Very dark ruby. Flattering nose offers ripe blackberry, minty minerals, licorice and dry herbs. Enters fresh and sweet, then turns a little rigid due to drying tannins, but with plenty of ripe black fruit flavors and lively acids. A pretty floral note and a hint of bitterness resonate on the moderately long finish. It’s a shame about the drying tannins: with its attractive balance and easy-drinking charm, this wine is in some respects more successful than the flagship Cos.”


“Wow. Intense aromas of blackberry, toasted nuts and spices follow through to full body, with layers of fruit and wonderful length. Very, very impressive. For a second wine, this is quite the glassful.”

- Wine Spectator Online 90-93 points `

Château Clerc Milon $99.90“Despite the fact there is 44% Merlot in this wine (blended with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Carménère), this is a tannic, structured, backward Clerc Milon,

which is atypical for this estate. Perhaps I just caught it at a time when the structure was dominating. It is a deep ruby/purple-hued, concentrated, impressively endowed effort that requires serious cellar age, 4-5 years minimum. It should last for 20-25 years.”


“Ruby red. An enticing floral element

adds lift to aromas of red berry cocktail, cinnamon and bay leaf. Enters juicy and fresh, with flavors similar to the aromas, offering good concentration and length but also a youthful austerity. The energetic finish features chewy tannins, considerable energy, and notes of menthol and coffee that speak of the Carménère, a variety that can make its presence even in minute doses. Barons Domaines de Rothschild’s general manager and technical director Philippe Dhalluin told me that the ‘09 Clerc Milon is very Pauillac in style. “I know that’s a funny thing to say considering that it includes 44% Merlot, but it has a rigid and massive quality that is very typical of Pauillac,” said Dhalluin. “My main goal with Clerc Milon is to try to civilize it more and more with each new vintage.” One factor that will go a long way toward improving the already high quality of this wine is that, starting with the 2009 vintage, Clerc Milon now has its own director in charge of operations, Jean-Emanuel Darjoy, who works closely with Dhalluin on a day-to-day basis.”


“Delivers blackberry galore, with fabulous floral and currant undertones. Complex on the nose. Full-bodied, offering chewy tannins and lots of black licorice and currant character. Chewy, but reserved at the same time. A top Clerc. 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 44 percent Merlot, 4 percent Cabernet Franc, 1 percent Petit Verdot and 1 percent Carménère.”


Château d’Armailhac $79.90“This may be the finest d’Armailhac I have ever tasted. Made in a textured, full-bodied, sumptuous style, it is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and the balance primarily Cabernet

Franc with a tiny dosage of Petit Verdot. It exhibits a deep ruby/purpl hue along with floral, red and black currant, cedar, and spice characteristics. Deep, medium to full-bodied, and impressively pure as well as long, it should drink well for 25 years.”


“(A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24%

08

spicy botrytis note. Dense and moderately viscous but with excellent energy to the intense orange, apple pie, vanilla, cinnamon and marzipan flavors. Not hugely sweet or fleshy but seemed to grow more viscous and honeyed with air. Finishes crisp and extremely long, with a pretty orange liqueur complexity and a fabulous sense of balance. A potentially great vintage from this consistently excellent estate.”


“Dense and very rich on the palate. Medium sweet, with lemon pie and meringue notes and a textured finish.”


Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 375ml $42.90

“There is some SO2 masking the nose here, which is difficult to assess. However, the palate is well balanced

with fine minerality, bright citrus fruit, orange zest, a touch of white peach and apricot, good tension towards the finish with a dash of lemongrass on the aftertaste. There is very good weight and botrytis on this Lafaurie-Peyraguey that linger seductively.”


“Bright medium-deep gold. Captivating aromas of tangerine, peach and honey are complemented by flowers and a sexy oak note of coconut. Highly concentrated, fresh and sweet, with gloriously pure, marmalady botrytis tones complicating the citrus, caramelized banana, toffee and peach flavors. Rich and creamy yet wonderfully balanced thanks to plenty of acidity, this impressive young Sauternes finishes with palate-staining length and lingering hints of white pepper and ginger.”


“Focused and very clean, with apple pie and crème brûlée aromas. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a fruity finish. A little one-dimensional.”


Château l’Estang $22.90“Another sleeper of the vintage, the opaque

ruby/purple-tinged 2009 l’Estang exhibits lots of sweet black currant and black cherry fruit intermixed with a hint of vanillin. Medium to fullbodied, with surprisingly pure, concentrated, lengthy flavors, it should drink well for 5-6 years.”


Château Beau-Séjour Bécot $119.90

“A great effort from the Bécot family and their consultant, Jean Philippe Fort, the 2009 is a blend of 70% Merlot and the rest

equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is one of the highest-octane wines of St.-Émilion at 15% alcohol. Yields were very small (27 hectoliters per hectare) with the harvest taking place between October 10 and 14. The wine has an inky bluish/purple color and a big, powerful nose of raspberry confiture intermixed with crushed rock, licorice, and a very subtle hint of wood. A wine of enormous density, power, fullbodied richness and viscosity, it has good vibrancy and a boatload of tannin, but it is all seamlessly integrated in this colossal effort. Give it 3-5 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 30+ years.”


“Very deep ruby. Intense, spicy aromas of sweet boysenberry syrup, menthol, dark chocolate and smoky black pepper. Rich, fruity and slightly warm, with somewhat chunky blackberry, grilled bacon and chocolate flavors dominating. Finishes on a pretty floral note, with supple tannins and very good persistence. This sweet, thick wine will appeal to many wine lovers, but I found it a bit porty; it’s almost a meal in itself.”


“Blueberry, licorice and floral aromas follow through to a full body, with a beautiful core of fruit and a long, fine finish. Layered and gorgeous.”


Château Bellefont-Belcier $67.90“Beautiful aromas

of flowers, fresh herbs and dark fruits. Full-bodied, with lovely fruit, super wellintegrated tannins and a polished, creamy-textured mouthfeel.”


Château Corbin $52.90“A sexy, seductive effort, the 2009 Corbin reveals a full-bodied personality along with oodles of black currant and black cherry fruit intermixed with spice

and background wood smoke, silky tannins, and a texture that builds impressively and incrementally into a lush St.-Emilion. It should drink well for 10-15 years.”


“(65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc) Full ruby. Sexy aromas of ripe red cherry and raspberry, with a note of kirsch. Smooth and syrupy, with superripe flavors similar to the aromas but enough lively acidity to give it bounce. Finishes long and a bit warm. This should offer plenty of early-drinking appeal.”


“Crushed berries with lovely flowers on the nose. Full-bodied, with chewy yet polished tannins and plenty of fruit. Excellent length.”


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RIGHT BANKThe Right Bank is on the east side of the Dordogne River. The two most important appellations are Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. The wines from the Right Bank range from 100% Merlot to blends dominated by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Generally, there is much less Cabernet Sauvignon in these wines. In 2009 the quality of wines from the Right Bank was much more varied than those produced on the Left Bank. The variable that seems to impacted production was the ripeness (in some cases, the over-ripeness) of Merlot.

Côtes de CastillonCôtes de Castillon lies just east of Saint-Émilion. Of all the lesser-known appellations, it may well possess the greatest number of hidden treasures.

Saint-ÉmilionHome of the “so-called” micro-châteaux, Saint-Émilion’s output is bigger than that of any other Right Bank appellation. The wines from this appellation are usually dominated by Merlot with an important percentage of Cabernet Franc. Since Cabernet Sauvignon struggles to ripen in this area, it is only planted where there is an ideal microclimate and is relegated a minor position in most wines. In 2009, producers in Saint-Émillion struggled to keep their alcohols in check. Some were pushing 15% (one clocked in at a whopping 15.6%) but despite this anomaly, many excellent wines were produced in this vaunted Appellation.

an amazing amount of concentration on a seemingly weightless frame. More important still, although it pushes the ripeness envelope as most of the wines of Bernard Magrez do, it manages to come across as refined and graceful, even though it’s almost brutally powerful.”


“There’s lovely density and beauty to this young wine, with tobacco, light vanilla, chocolate and ripe fruit. Full and polished, with velvety tannins. Long and reserved, but very, very serious.”


Château de Malle 375ml $29.90“The de Malle 2009 remains aromatically

subdued, yet the palate is adorned with crisp pear and nectarine tinged on the entry with racy acidity that brings such vivacity. Quite linear, but maintaining good freshness from start

until its lemongrass-tinged finish, it will hopefully gain more complexity by the time of bottling, by which time it may merit a higher mark.”


“Medium straw-yellow with gold highlights. Delicate aromas of white flowers, fresh lemon, tangerine and minerals. Juicy and clean, this midweight Sauternes offers an enticing sugar/acid balance and fresh flavors of ripe apricot and honey. Displays more flesh on the rather easygoing mid-palate and on the aftertaste than the nose suggests. Finishes with good but not outstanding length and a light mineral touch.”


“Attractive aromas and flavors of sliced apple, pear and honey. Medium-bodied and medium sweet, with a spicy botrytis and fruit finish.”


Château Filhot 375ml $24.90“Bright yellow-gold. Delicate, lively aromas of nectarine, apricot,

wet earth and honeycomb, with a strong botrytis note. Then juicy and cleanly made but with a faint herbal, earthy edge and only moderate lift and grip to its pineapple, mushroom and spice flavors. Brisk acidity gives this wine good verve and definition, but today it seems a little sullen. The mineral-tinged finish features a recurring earthy nuance and a hint of dryness. Filhot is almost always one of the toughest Sauternes to judge young, as it frequently shows an earthy streak early on that conveys an impression of rusticity, but which fades with bottle age. A lighter and less sweet style than most other Sauternes, Filhot usually pairs well with shrimp, scallop and lobster dishes.”


“Shows some botrytis spice and dried fruit character on the nose. Full-bodied, very sweet and thick, with a dense, almost syrupy finish. Excellent for Filhot.”


“This rocks with botrytis, offering spicy almond, peach pie and dried apricot on the nose and palate. Full and very sweet, with a long finish. So much dried fruit. Oily and powerful. Some bitterness. 35 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 65 percent Sémillon.”


Château La Tour Blanche 375ml $52.90

“The 2009 La Tour Blanche is very primal on the nose with grapefruit, nectarine and apricot aromas. The palate is very well balanced, just a little oaky at the moment but

with a very fine thread of acidity. Touches of fresh apricot, a hint of nougat, lime zest and white peach. Well balanced, linear at the front palate but voluminous and expanding across the mouth in every direction on the viscous, mineral-rich finish. There is so much potential here. Superb.”


“(A blend of 85% Semillon and 15% Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle) Medium yellow-gold. Complex, subtle nose offers green fig, peach, toffee, crystallized ginger and lemon drop aromas, plus a strong

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Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot) Deep red with purple highlights. The pretty, spicy, perfumed aromas of blackcurrants and raspberries leap from the glass. Light and fragrant on the palate, with excellent balance between the lively acids and the pretty red fruit and mineral flavors. This smoothly tannic midweight improves considerably with air, gaining in complexity and finishing with intense, very pure red and black cherry flavors. To my mind, the best Armailhac ever, and one that shows a very recognizable and pristine Cabernet Franc presence. Readers who enjoy classically styled Bordeaux may want to think about this gloriously restrained and refined wine, which is less obviously ripe than many other ‘09s and should age spectacularly well.”


“Love the minty, floral and dark berry aromas to this young wine. Full-bodied, with supe fine and polished tannins. Long and racy. Wonderful texture. Perhaps the best d’Armailhac ever. 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 24 percent Merlot, 14 percent Cabernet Franc and 2 percent Petit Verdot.”


Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste $129.90

“I was surprised that this wine was not more concentrated given the overall character of the vintage, and I would rate it behind the 2005, 2000, 1990, and 1982. Nevertheless,

it boasts this estate’s classic creme de cassis character as well as a soft, round, medium to full -bodied mouthfeel, pure fruit, and silky tannins, but not the weight, depth, or profound concentration of the top 2009 Pauillacs. Still, this cuvée will be approachable young, and should evolve easily for two decades.”


“(A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc) Purple ruby. Smoky blackberry, blueberry juice, chocolate and a whiff of iron on the nose. With air, this became silky, pliant and rather easygoing, with good depth to the flavors of small dark berries and flint. Finishes with creamy tannins, good vinosity and sneaky

length. Almost too easy to drink presently: should it develop more complexity, weight and depth, my score will look ungenerous.”


“Lovely nose of sweet currant and blueberry that follows through to a full body, with juicy, velvety tannins and a licorice, tar and dark chocolate finish. Like it. The new 1982?”


Château Latour $1,499.90“The 2009 Latour has off the charts concentration in addition to the highest level of tannin ever

measured at the estate. The final blend was somewhat unusual in that it consists of 91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8.7% Merlot, and clocked in at 13.7% alcohol (even higher than the 2003). Possibly a 100-year wine, it boasts an inky/black/purple color as well as an extraordinary perfume of super-intense blue and black fruits, graphite, and a liqueur of rocks-like minerality. Enormously full-bodied yet at the same time incredibly fresh, vibrant, and precise, it coats the mouth, and builds incrementally to skyscraper- like texture, and a whopping finish that lasts over a minute. This remarkable wine reveals a certain accessibility already, yet one senses that it will be even richer, more nuanced, and fuller by the time it is bottled in mid-2011. A monumental wine from a monumental vintage in the Medoc, this is our children’s children’s children’s elixir.”


“(A 91/9 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) Purple ruby. Flamboyant aromas of red cherry, cassis, graphite and cedar soar from the glass. Then very dense, supple and smooth, with a noble texture and great breadth to its red cherry, blackcurrant, spicy plum, ink and cedar flavors. Finishes with exceptionally velvety tannins and a very ripe, almost perfumed quality to the red and black fruit flavors. A large-scaled and clearly great wine that calls to mind a combination of the 1982 and 2005 Latours. That said, while this wine shares some of the 2009 Mouton’s voluptuous perfume, it lacks the extraordinary finesse of either the 2009 Lafite or Margaux, but is much

more powerful than both of those wines. Millionaires will have a lot of fun over the years comparing the first growths of 2009 and arguing over which is the best.”


“This is incredibly floral on the nose, with violet and lilac as well as dark and ripe raspberry and blueberry. Fullbodied, with a dense and incredibly rich palate yet held back and in reserve. Such precision and beauty. It lasts for minutes on the palate. This reminds me of the 1990, but better made and better raised. It is really the style of Latour, where the tannins grab you at the end. This will most likely be a perfect wine.”


Château Mouton-Rothschild $1,399.90

“This is the most backward and unevolved of all the Left Bank (Médoc) first-growths. In 10-20 years, the 2009 Mouton Rothschild should rank alongside the greatest vintages of the last

three decades (1986 and 1982). Yields were a small 30 hectoliters per hectare, the final blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot, and the finished alcohol is 13.2% (not particularly high in this vintage). The pH is 3.81, and the index of tannins, the highest ever measured, a whopping 20% higher than the next highest vintage. The tannins, while present, are silky and well-integrated, one of the hallmarks of the 2009 vintage. An inky/purple color is accompanied by classic aromas of creme de cassis, violets, and hints of graphite and background oak. The overwhelming impression is one of layer upon layer of fruit, full-bodied opulence, and good structure. It tastes as if it were 2-3 months old rather than a post-malolactic, fully assembled barrel sample ... it’s that young, but so incredibly promising. A 50- to 100-year wine? Probably.”


“(A blend of 88 % Cabernet Sauvignon and 12 % Merlot). Deep ruby. Flamboyant, superripe aromas of spicy blackcurrant, strawberry jam, smoky plum, vanilla, exotic

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Saint-JulienLocated just south of Pauillac, Saint-Julien is very uniform in terms of quality. Wines from this commune are classic, elegant and long lived with a lot of subtlety. Saint Julien is traditionally the bastion of decent Left Bank Bordeaux, the commune that makes up for its lack of First Growth with virtues of reliability, trust and steadfastness and in 2009, the Saint Julien wines deliver some outstanding Clarets.

wood and minerals scream Mouton (this would rate 100 points for its nose!). Rich, lush and powerful, with impressive fullness and volume to its ripe strawberry, raspberry, blackcurrant, sweet spice and cedar flavors. I picked up a hint of pomegranate on the end. The slightly chewy tannins are a bit less fine-grained tannins at this stage than I would have expected, but this is a monumental and extraordinarily long wine that must be among the four or five best ever made at this estate.”


“I am speechless over the nose in this wine. Mint, blackberry, currant and black licorice turn to flowers such as lilacs and roses. Wow. It fills your mouth with the same fruit, but with an intensity of superpolished tannins. It finishes with complex yet reserved coffee, toasted oak and ripe fruit and then in two or three minutes it becomes milk chocolate. Just a joy to taste. Best Mouton since 1982 or 1986; in fact, it’s like a bend of the two. A perfect Mouton? 88 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 12 percent Merlot.”


Château Pédesclaux $52.90“One of the perennial whipping boys in The Wine Advocate, and usually one of the most disappointing of the classified growths, the 2009 is the first

Pedesclaux in over thirty years that I can recommend. Although it’s not a star of the vintage, it is moving in the right direction. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot and a dollop of Cabernet Franc, it exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, a sweet nose of black currants, spice box, licorice, and herbs, medium body, and a lush texture. It should drink well young and last for 15 or more years.”


“A wine with a solid core of berry and milk chocolate character. Full and round, with velvety tannins and a juicy, fruity finish. This shows great improvement for what was once consider the worst classified-growth.”


Château Pichon-Baron $234.90

“An inky/blue/purple color is followed by aromas and flavors of incense, flowery black currants, and subtle smoke and oak. This full-bodied 2009, which exhibits wonderful intensity, purity, and length, is an exceptional effort, but in this vintage, it must take a back seat to some of its peers, such as Pichon Lalande, Pontet-Canet and Lynch-Bages, not to mention all the firstgrowths. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful wine that should drink well for 30+ years.” - Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #188 93-95 points “(67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot) Deep red with purple highlights. Lovely, scented nose hints at red berry cocktail, dark plum, blackcurrant and minerals, plus a hint of sweet spices. Then very smooth on the palate, with ripe black fruit and delicate spice flavors framed by lively acids and satiny tannins. Finishes long and pure, with a lingering black pepper note. A wonderfully complex wine that owing to its perfectly balanced, almost weightless mouth feel will probably always be deceptively easy to drink, even though it will last longer than you or I. In fact, this is the most refined, sophisticated version of Pichon-Baron I can recall at a similarly young age. One of the top wines of the vintage.”


“Loads of currant and blackberry, with mineral and dried flowers. Full-bodied, with ultra-fine, very long tannins. Really builds on the palate. A racy style, with excellent length.”


Château Beychevelle $119.90“This is the finest Bechevelle since the 1982. The opaque purple-hued 2009 displays beautiful floral

notes intermixed with notions of black raspberries and creme de cassis. The fruit hits the palate with a medium to full-bodied richness, and the wine possesses sweet, velvety tannins, stunning purity, and a layered mouthfeel that builds incrementally, combining power, concentration, density, and elegance. This 2009 should hit its stride in 5-7 years, and last three decades or more. A beauty!”


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Château Rauzan-Gassies $74.90“A masculine-styled, dense purple-colored

2009, this cuvée offers up scents of charcoal, asphalt, black currants, incense, and crushed rocks. This deep, medium to full-bodied, wellmade Margaux

is broader, richer, and more substantial than usual, with more alcohol as well as substance. The tannins are ripe and well-integrated. This is a 30-year wine.”


“Inky purple. Initially closed nose opens with air to show aromas of black plum, coffee, dried herbs and spicy minerals. Smooth, dense and suave, with a restrained sweetness; hints of flint, truffle and smoke add interest to the black fruit flavors. Finishes dense, thick and serious, with smooth tannins and noteworthy length. This represents a real step up in concentration and precision from this performance over the last couple of decades.”


“A pleasant young wine, with berry and currant character that follows through to a medium body, with a simple finish.”


Château Rauzan-Ségla $158.90Composed of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and

42% Merlot, this large estate appears to have produced their greatest wine since the 1986. The alcohols came in at 13.9%, and the wine reveals extraordinary

density, power, and richness as well as explosive fruit, and terrific acidity, intensity, and power. Yet it tastes like a crisp, delicate Margaux. Yields were 40 hectoliters per hectare. This outstanding 2009 should age nicely for 35-40+ years.”


“(A 58/42 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) Ruby red. Perfumed aromas of currant, spices and flowers show an intriguing candied quality. Light and lively on the palate, with suave, peppery dark berry and mineral flavors lifted by a spicy

element on the back. Finishes long and pure, with noteworthy inner-mouth energy and fragrance. This wine’s very polished tannins make it deceptively delicious to taste today, like so many 2009s.”

- Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 10 90 points

“Shows a lovely concentration of currant and blackberry. Hints of vanilla follow through to a full body, with layers of ripe fruit and fine, fruit-coated tannins. I love the ripe and pretty fruit to this. Very fruit-forward. The château cut back on the new wood, and went for a fruitier style. I like that.”


Château Haut-Brion $1,499.90“There are 10,500 cases of the 2009 Haut-

Brion, from a blend of 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Cabernet Franc. For technicians, the highest ever natural

alcohol, 14.3%, was achieved, with a pH of 3.9, which is about the same as the 1989 and 1990, as well as 1959. This is the kind of wine to send chills even up my spine, and I have been tasting here for nearly 30 years. An extraordinary nose of plum, blueberry, raspberry, crushed rock, and that intriguing floral as well as unsmoked cigar tobacco note (a classic sign of this terroir) is followed by a wine of creamy unctuosity reminiscent of 1989, but there is a freshness, vibrancy and precision that is historic and possibly unprecedented Some graphite emerges as the wine sits in the glass, but the wine is very thick while at the same time precise and elegant. This is the quintessential expression of one of the greatest wine terroirs of the world. To reiterate, the good news is that there are going to be 10,500 cases of Haut-Brion in 2009, which is about 1,500 more cases than the 9,000 produced in 2005. This wine will probably need 7-8 years of cellaring when released and evolve as well as the 1959 has (which is still a perfect wine today), so we’re realistically talking 50-75 years when stored in a cool cellar.”


“(46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc) Saturated bright ruby. The deep, brooding nose is quite marked by

the cabernet franc presence, opening slowly with air to offer sexy, soil-driven aromas of violet, raspberry, mocha, minerals and sweet spices. Then rich and sweet in the mouth but with outstanding minerality and enticing violet lift to the ripe red cherry, raspberry, cocoa and black pepper flavors. Offers a stunning combination of concentration, density and balance; as backward and reserved as this wine is today, it manages to come across as graceful. The endless palate-staining finish is loaded with sweet, ripe tannins and an exhilarating note of floral black pepper. This wine made me think of what a blend of the great ‘89 and ‘05 Haut- Brions might taste like.”


“A dark and brooding wine, delivering blackberry, black licorice, mahogany, subtle grilled meat and raspberry jam. Full-bodied, with layers of ripe and chewy tannins. Loads of fruit yet subtle and reserved, and a long, long finish. Super fruit, yet held back. A 2005 in the remaking, but perhaps slightly supercharged.”


Château Pape-Clément $239.90“A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2009 Pape Clement is

not as dense or provocative as the 2005, but it is a worthy competitor. Tighter and more muscular than the 2005, the 2009 reveals an opaque purple color along with notes of graphite, blueberries, and blackberries, stunning richness, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and tremendous length and intensity. Some patience will be required, and I do not believe this effort will achieve the near perfection of the 2005, but it is another winner in this extraordinary vintage. Yields were 43 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine finished around 13.5% alcohol.”


“Ruby-purple. Vibrant blackcurrant, blackberry and smoke aromas show noteworthy depth and purity. Big and ripe on the palate, but with lovely balance to its black fruit and smoke flavors. The very long, pure finish features a lingering mineral streak and very fine tannins. This exceptional vintage of Pape Clement packs

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Pessac-LéognanPessac-Léognan lies directly south of the city of Bordeaux in the region of Graves. The appellation was established in 1987 and it encompasses the 10 best communes which also have the right to the Graves AOC. This area takes its name from its very distinct soil, which possesses a high percentage of gravel. The wines from Pessac-Léognan are characterized by pronounced smoky and mineral notes. For 2009, the reds from Pessac display good fruit and ripe, grippy tannins. Quality is quite consistent, with some of the top Châteaux producing some of the best wines of the vintage.

Barsac/SauternesOne of the five communes of Sauternes, producers of Barsac are entitled to label their bottles under either name. Located on the west side of Céron, the vineyards benefit from river mist which favours the noble rot. Wines from Barsac tend to be a little lighter than Sauternes due to the high content of sand and limestone in the soil. This is a great area for good value. Located just south of Graves, the Sauternes appellation is dedicated entirely to the production of unfortified sweet wines. Most wines are made of a blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and occasionally Muscadelle. The 2009 wines from Sauternes and Barsac have both substance and weight, but counterbalanced with finesse and acidity. Like the reds from 2009 there is a high-end balance of power against freshness.

my!”


“(87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 1.5% each Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) Full, bright, purple-tinged ruby. Violet and blackcurrants on the nose; with its dominant black fruits, this is completely different from the Pavillon Rouge, which is all about red fruits. Enters the mouth discreetly, then picks up volume in the middle. Offers sneaky concentration without any impression of weight, offering very pure, fresh blackcurrant, cedar and tobacco flavors and a long, mineral-driven finish. Archetypical Margaux in its aroma profile, this seems superior to the less refined ‘07.”


“The nose is so intensely fruity, but subtle and reserved at the same time. Fascinating. Full-bodied, yet super refined, building on the palate. It’s like watching a long-distance runner starting off slowly but continuing along his or her path. Fine and dense tannins. A few minutes in the glass and the massive tannins show. Muscular and subdued.”


Château Palmer $549.90“The black/purple-colored 2009 Palmer exhibits a level of tannin that exceeds anything they have previously

produced. The final blend is 52% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Petit Verdot, and the finished alcohol is 13.9%. It is hard to say this 2009 will turn out better than Palmer’s extraordinary 2005, but it certainly will be different in style given the alcohol level and power of this vintage. Pure blackberry and black currant fruit notes intermixed with hints of incense, graphite, and wood are followed by an opulent, thick, juicy wine with plenty of structure, and enormous concentration, mass, and length. Four to five years of patience is required, but this beauty should last for three decades or more.”


“(A blend of 52% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot) Very dark ruby. Rich, concentrated aromas of

ripe dark plum and blackberry show a pure, penetrating quality. Dense, rich and wonderfully tactile on the palate, with pure black fruit and graphite flavors nicely complicated by cocoa and coffee. Finishes very long, but with slightly rigid tannins that left me wishing for a touch more generosity. A very strong wine, but not quite as impressive as I expected in the context of the vintage-and more tannic than usual.”


“Loaded with exotic fruit, with masses of crushed blackberry and blueberry. Superclear and fruit forward. Full and velvety, with fresh acidity and a long, long finish. This is almost in your face, but reserved in a way. Superseductive.”


Château Prieure-Lichine $84.90“Beautiful floral-infused black fruits jump

from the glass of this opaque ruby/purple-colored wine. Possibly richer, denser, and even more complete than the brilliant 2005 (although it is still too early to say that definitively), this is certainly a

more opulent, succulent style of wine than even the 2005, which had surprising flesh for a wine from that vintage. The Right Bank consultant Stephane Derenoncourt has performed some magic here, as recent vintages attest, and the wines are often fairly priced as well. This full-bodied Prieure-Lichine should drink well for 20-25 years.”


“Purple red. Aromas of red berry fruit cocktail lifted by spices and flowers. Ripe acidity gives the wine’s red fruit flavors good lift. Finishes clean and persistent, with suave, palate-dusting tannins and lingering berry and mineral qualities. Subtly complex and lively wine.”


“Complex aromas of mineral, blueberry and currant follow through to a full body, with superfine tannins and a long, long finish. This is exceptional. Best of all time.”


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“Inky purple. Floral aromas of black plum and graphite. Easygoing and fine-grained, with a distinctly cool quality to the blackberry, floral and mint flavors. Pliant in the middle palate but with cedar, floral and herbal notes providing very good lift. Its light touch and suave mouth feel make Beychevelle easy to recognize in a blind tasting with its peers. This attractive wine shows sneaky depth of flavor and finishes with sweet, silky tannins and noteworthy energy. Just misses out on a bit more concentration for a higher score.”


“Sweet berry and floral aromas, with a creamy undertone. Full-bodied, with a dense and polished palate, fine tannins and a long finish. Best since 2000?”


Château Branaire-Ducru $117.90“Only time will tell whether the 2009,

another great effort from Branaire, will eclipse the 2005 and 2003. Certainly at 13.6% alcohol it is the most powerful

Branaire ever made, and the final blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot showcases what a great vintage 2009 is for Cabernet Sauvignon. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by raspberry, boysenberry, crushed rock, graphite, and floral notes, and an opaque, broad, dense, substantial, impressively structured wine without any hardness. It requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should last four decades or more.”


“Inky purple. Grapey, floral nose offers the full Branaire spectrum of sexy ripe black cherry, Oriental spice, dark chocolate and coconut aromas. Enters very bright, with rich, dense flavors of red cherry and pomegranate juice, then finishes impressively long and pure, with a lovely hint of fresh blackberry. The wine’s lively acids give it great precision and extend its flavors on the aromatic aftertaste. The wine’s youthfully aggressive tannins will greatly repay cellaring, and I expect this wine to age effortlessly for the next few decades. I recently had the amazing 1928 Branaire, and though I don’t think this ‘09 will ever reach

the heights of that wine, it may be pretty close.”


“Aromas of blueberry, dried citrus fruit and currant. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long, long finish. Structured and tannic, but sweet fruit behind.”


Château Gloria $69.90“There have been many great Glorias over the years as this property consistently over-performs. The 2009 may be the finest yet produced. Loaded with notes of

Christmas fruitcake intermixed with red and black currants, licorice, spice box, and blackberries, this inky/purple-colored wine is atypically full-bodied with a viscous texture, and loads of tannin, extract, and richness. Deep and layered, it will offer thrilling sipping over the next 25+ years. (Bottles of the 1982 I own are fully mature, but are not close to falling apart.)”


“(A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot) Bright red. Charming, fruity aromas of strawberry, raspberry and clove. Then surprisingly firm on entry, with stiff tannins providing backbone to the ripe red fruit and herbal flavors. The persistent finish features lingering white pepper

and floral notes. This Gloria strikes me as a little less subtle than usual, and rather more Pauillac-like in style.”


“Crushed blackberries and fresh herbs on the nose. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, rich finish. Solid core of everything here. Right up there with the 2005.”


Château Lagrange $102.90“A slightly lighter, less powerful style of St.-Julien, but also less oaky than previous vintages have tended

to be, the 2009 Lagrange offers attractive, fresh, red and black currant notes, and an elegant as well as corpulent attack and mid-palate. This wine does not have the weight of the “big boys” of St.-Julien, but it displays an endearing finesse, freshness, and purity. It is by no means a wimpish, understated wine, but in the context of the 2009 vintage, it is somewhat overwhelmed by many of its neighbors. Enjoy it over the next two decades.”


“(73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot) Dark ruby. Precise aromas of flowers, redcurrant, dried herbs, cedar and tobacco. Lush, rich and fine-grained, with lovely inner-mouth spicy and floral lift to its pure redcurrant and cranberry flavors complicated by graphite and ink. Finishes with a pretty mineral persistence and high-quality but youthfully aggressive tannins that beg for a little more time to resolve fully. Not a blockbuster but charming and stylish, in typical Lagrange fashion. The higher-than-normal Cabernet presence makes this a distinctly sturdy example of Lagrange.”


“Intense aromas of blackberry and smoke. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and long finish. Solid and tight. As it should be.”


Château Léoville-Barton $164.90“This behemoth possesses massive

extraction, an opaque purple color, huge density, extreme tannins, and a nearly endless finish. Everything is there, but the highly extracted style and off the chart tannins ensures that no one over

the age of forty will ever see this wine hit full maturity. Nevertheless, there is a lot to admire, and it’s good to taste a wine that will not be ready to drink for 30+ years. No compromise!”


“(A blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22.5% Merlot and 0.5% Cabernet Franc) Deep ruby. Sexy, exotic aromas of spicy

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MargauxMargaux is the southernmost commune appellation in Haut-Médoc. Wines here generally have a higher percentage of Merlot than other northern appellations. In 2009, this AOC proved to be one of the most consistent and despite producing a number of “big” wines, most preserved the sought after Margaux femininity.

blackcurrant, cedar, sweet tobacco and coconut hint at great depth and complexity. Then floral on the palate, with chewy, dense, rich flavors of black fruits, tobacco and chocolate nicely lifted by a distinct flintiness. Initially sweet and voluptuous, this turns slightly dry and chalky on the long, pure, sassafras-and spiceaccented finish. A delicious if very young Léoville-Barton and at a rare-for-the-vintage 13% alcohol.”


“Licorice, berry, grape and currant on the nose turns to crushed fruit. Full-bodied, with very fine tannins, pretty fruit, currant and mineral. A balanced and pretty wine. Not quite the intensity and blockbuster style of the 2005, but excellent.”


Château Léoville-Las Cases $549.90

“The 2009 is one of the greatest Léoville-Las Cases I have ever tasted, which is saying something given the many compelling wines that have been made at this estate. A final

blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc has resulted in a wine that appears to be a hypothetical blend of the 1982 or 1986. Its 13.8% alcohol is perhaps the only thing that sets it apart from those vintages, which had nearly a full percentage point less. The high alcohol is barely noticeable in this 2009, which boasts an inky/purple color, monumental concentration, and great clarity and purity of creme de cassis, black cherry, spice box, graphite, and wet rocks. Extremely full-bodied with a boatload of sweet tannin nearly concealed by the wines power, glycerin, and awesome fruit concentration, this intense effort never tastes heavy or tiring. This remarkable St.-Julien should be accessible in 3-4 years, and will evolve for 40-50.”


“(76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc) Purple ruby. Initially closed nose opens slowly with air to reveal blackcurrant, blueberry, tobacco and minerals. Then remarkably supple and pliant

in the mouth, with extremely sweet red and black fruit flavors complicated by graphite, tobacco and minerals. The youthful, building tannins start silky-smooth, then become a bit aggressive on the long, complex finish. Compared to Latour, whose vineyards lie practically next door, this has a much softer texture and is very much Saint-Julien, though over time it may toughen up and shut down. This wine reminded me of the excellent ‘66, but despite such high praise, I’m not sure it’s that much better than the excellent ‘08 made here. Las Cases’s reputation is built on some of Bordeaux’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon of all, but Delon told me that he felt it needed a touch more merlot than usual in the final blend this year. “While normally it can do with very little Merlot, not this year,” said Delon. “The Merlot adds a touch of charm that is lovely.””


“Black color. What a nose. Black licorice, raspberry, currant and dried flowers galore. Full-bodied and superpowerful, with masses of fruit and toasted oak, but a blockbuster finish of fruit, tannins and everything else. I have never tasted such a flashy sample. I am blown away by this. A more fruit-forward style for Las Cases.”


Château Léoville-Poyferré $189.90

“One of the stars of the vintage, it will be interesting to see if Poyferré ultimately eclipses Las Cases as the finest of the three

Léovilles. The 2009 is even better than the 2000, 2003, and 2005. Its inky/purple color precedes a wine filled with extraordinary opulence, voluptuous texture, and sweet tannin. It offers both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure with layer upon layer of ripe fruit. Yields were 43 hectoliters per hectare, the blend is more than two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, and the natural alcohol is the highest ever measured at this estate, 13.95%. The high alcohol is not the least bit noticeable because of the extraordinary concentration and freshness possessed by most 2009s - a vintage characteristic that will serve these wines for decades to come. This is a wine to purchase by the case-load. It should drink

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well for 30-45 years.”


“(A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc) Inky purple. Brooding, masculine nose offers black plum, chocolate liqueur, orange peel and espresso. Soft and supple on entry, then a bit youthfully aggressive in the middle, but with a distinctly chewy texture supporting the ultra-ripe black plum and chocolate flavors. Finishes with building, slightly dry tannins and hints of Oriental plum liqueur and peppery soy sauce. Always a sexy wine, this Léoville Poyferré has excellent balance and is more discreet than some other vintages of the last 20 years. It may still be a little short on finesse, but it’s hard to argue with its almost decadent, voluptuous appeal. Very well done, and likely to be one of the château’s most successful wines ever.”


“Wonderful aromas of currant and blackberry, with black olives. Full-bodied, with a mouth-coating palate of supersoft tannins that go on and on. Solid and polished. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.”


Clos du Marquis $94.90“Clos du Marquis is being positioned by Jean-Hubert Delon as a separate single vineyard wine rather

than Leoville Las Cases’ second wine. It has come from the same vineyard for over twenty years, and is not a true second wine in the sense that it is not made from Las Cases’ discarded cuvées. The 2009 Clos du Marquis (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) came in at 13.75% alcohol. It exhibits a deep ruby/ purple hue along with sweet notes of creme de cassis, great purity, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and terrific texture as well as length. It should evolve for 20-25 years.”


“(A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot) Dark ruby. Pure strawberry and

blackcurrant aromas soar from the glass. Enters fairly large and soft, with a pretty violet note lifting the ripe blackcurrant, spicy plum and chocolate flavors. Even though there’s a good bit of Merlot here, the high quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon in ‘09 gives this plenty of Saint-Julien typicity. “This time around, I do think that the merlot has added much-needed charm,” conceded Delon.”


“Raspberry and wild currant on the nose. Full-bodied, with superfine tannins and a long, pretty finish. Plenty of currant and mineral character. Builds on the finish. Tannic.”


Château Kirwan $96.90“This inky/purple-hued Margaux reveals aromas and flavors of blackberries, cassis, espresso roast, graphite,

and new oak. Full-bodied, layered, and rich as well as elegant and precise, it needs 5-6 years of cellaring, and should last for 25-30+ years. It is a very strong effort from Kirwan.”


“Opaque inky purple. Aromas of blueberry, sweet plum and chocolate pudding are complicated by hints of wet earth and animal fur. Enters sweet and ripe, but shows very good grip and inner-palate energy to its black fruit and herbal flavors. This ultimately suave and smooth wine finishes with supple, broad tannins and sneaky length. Only a few years ago, I found Kirwan’s wines to be rather boring too similar to many others and hardly reflective of its favored Margaux terroir. But recent vintages have been better and more interesting, and this is a now an estate to follow. The devotion of owner Sophie Schyler to her estate shows.”


“Wow. A subtle yet fabulous burst of fruit on the nose, with currant, mineral and flowers. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a fruity, beautiful finish. So pretty. Chewy. Big Kirwan.”


Château Lascombes $157.90“Midnight oil? Dense black purple to the rim, the 2009 Lascombes has enormous concentration, with loads of graphite, blackberry, and blueberry notes as well as hints of pen ink and truffle. The wine

is super-intense, full-bodied, fleshy, and rich. This is another wine that will compete with the 2005, which is certainly the best Lascombes I have ever tasted.”


“Inky, glass-staining purple. Chocolatey torrefaction and herbs currently dominate black fruit aromas on the nose. Much more fruit-dominated in the mouth: pure, rich, almost decadently ripe blackberry and cassis flavors are plush and creamy, but possess excellent grip and precision. Very polished tannins give the luscious finish an ultrasmooth texture. Maybe a bit more New than Old World, but this version of Lascombes is much more reminiscent of classic Bordeaux than other recent vintages and appears to be the best vintage here in years.”


“Fascinating aromas of crushed berries and fresh herbs follow through to a full body, with velvety, polished tannins and a long, long finish. Wonderful wine. More reserved than the 2005, but potentially better.”


Château Margaux $1,399.90“Thirty-five percent of the crop went into the 2009 Chateau Margaux, composed of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon,

9% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The alcohol level of 13.3% is high, but not excessively so. A wine such as this is like the quintessence of terroir. A super, uber-concentrated perfume of creme de cassis and flowers cascades across the palate with a lightness of being despite massive concentration, a sumptuous personality, and an unctuous texture. I have never tasted a Château Margaux quite like this. It should be relatively drinkable at an early age, yet will last for 50-100 years. Oh

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Bordeaux 2009 futures

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