Belfast In Your Pocket

N°44belfast.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELFAST

October - November 2012

Whiskey a go-goDrink in the city’s best emporiums

Fright NightsGet spooked with Belfast’s Hallowe’en scene

Bangkok BellesThe Lady Boys are back in town - amd we’re giving away tickets

NORTHERNIRELANd

HIgHLIgHTS& HIddEN gEMS

Including

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

3Contents

October - November 2012belfast.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Basics 5

NI Railways & Metro Bus Map 8-10

Culture & Events 11

Hallowe’en in Belfast 14

Christmas in Belfast 16

Sport & Leisure 18

History 20

Belfast’s Quarters 21

Contents

Titanic in Belfast 22

Where to stay 25

Restaurants & Cafés 29

Nightlife 37

What to see 42 Museums, parks and public art

West Belfast & Shankill 49 Falls and Walls

NI Highlights & Hidden Gems 51

Derry/Londonderry 54

Shopping 58

Maps & Street Index Northern Ireland 61City Centre 64-65 Greater Belfast 66Street Index 66

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S


5Arriving & BAsics4 Foreword

Belfast In Your Pocket belfast.inyourpocket.com

It’s come over all golden as we welcome autumn’s glossy glow. Now’s the perfect time to head indoors and experience some of the city’s finest emporiums. And by that we mean atmospheric inns, hip hostelries and beautiful bars all stocked with the best of beers, ales and whiskies. Flickering fires, traditional Irish music and achingly cool crowds complete the tourist-friendly scene. Flick to Nightlife (p.4) and find your own fave drinking den.Meanwhile, it’s the annual return of The Lady Boys of Bangkok who’ll be pitching their extremely glamorous tent at Custom House Square for two weeks in November. Expect a flurry of fabulous outfits, sleek song and dance routines and lots of laughs. Find out more - and bag yourself a pair of tickets - on p.12. Before the grand dames arrival, prepare for some shocking sights and glittering lights as Hallowe’en events take over town. It’s candy apples ahoy on p.14. Then, whisper it, with the imminent arrival of Mr. S Claus, start embracing the festive season with the switching on of the city’s Christmas Lights and arrival of City Hall’s ever popular Christmas Market. Jingle those bells on p.16.Belfast and NI Sightseeing highlights (from p.42 and p.51), including the opening of Crumlin Road Gaol (p.42) and a certain ship called Titanic (p.22), complete your autumnal extravaganza.

Since it opened just over a year ago, The Hudson Bar has fast become one of Belfast’s coolest hostelries. Its arrival at the heart of the old Smithfield Quarter is spearheading a renaissance in the area well ahead of the relocation of the University of Ulster and its thirsty students in 2018.

Cover story

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial Managing Editor Heidi McAlpin (+44) (0)7980 [email protected]

Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite

For competitions and all the latest Belfast and NI tourism news...

Find us on

and

/BELFASTIYP @BELFASTIYP

Copyright notice Text copyright Belfast In Your Pocket 2000-2012. Maps copyright Northern Ireland Tourist Board and Visit West Belfast. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Belfast In Your [email protected]

ISSN 1747-0021© Belfast In Your Pocket

Published six times per year.

Next issue December 2012 - January 2013 Published by In Your Pocket Ltd. For all enquiries and comments contact [email protected]

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NorthernIrelandIreland

By boatFerry terminals are a swift 5-10min well-signposted drive north of the city centre.

Isle of Man: Steam Packet Company (G-2), Albert Quay, tel. (+44) (0)8722 992992, www.steam-packet.com. (April-Sept.) c.3hr sailing to Douglas.Scotland and Liverpool: Stena Line (G-1), West Bank Rd, tel. (+44) (0)8447 707070, www.stenaline.co.uk. Stena’s new Superfast ferries sail to Cairnryan in 2hrs 15mins. They are the largest ships ever to sail the route and include, among other delights, a Nordic spa, free wifi and the multi-sensory POD Lounge with games, internet and music. The Liverpool journey takes 8hrs (overnight or daytime options).

By taxi (incl. Taxi Tours)Taxis range from the traditional black hack (see p.50) to conventional cars. The former can be hailed if the orange TAXI light is on, the latter is more a phone and wait affair. These tried and trusted companies also run tours:

Fonacab (+44) (0)28 9033 3333, www.fonacab.com Taxi Trax (+44) (0)28 9031 5777, www.taxitrax.com

BorderNI’s border with the Republic of Ireland is 360kms long from Carlingford Lough in the south to Lough Foyle in the north. Crossing it is a seamless affair. Non-EU drivers should hold an International Driving License. Drive on the left on both sides of the border, and look out for speed limit changes - marked in kph in the Republic of Ireland and mph in NI. A quick calculation is 100kph = 60mph (ie 3/5).

Car parkingApprox. 1300 on-street city centre parking meters charge £1.20 per hour (free Sun and after 6pm) payable by coin, mo-bile or credit/debit card. Check street signs as many spaces are restricted by time and red-jacketed traffic wardens are omnipresent. Privately operated car parks vary in price from the affordable to the eye-watering.

Customs & VisasCheck the Imports & Exports section of the HM Customs & Excise website www.hmce.gov.uk. EU citizens, and those from most other western countries, do not usually require a visa. Check with the British Embassy in your home country or contact UK Visas, www.ukvisas.gov.uk.

By planeGeorge Best Belfast City Airport H-1/2, tel. (+44) (0)28 9093 9093, www.belfastcityairport.com. Named after the East Bel fast-born footballing legend, this airport is just 3km east of the city centre, off the A2 Sydenham bypass. It has conference facili-ties, ATMs, foreign exchange, wifi, and a small selection of shops and food outlets. To get to town by bus, hop on the Airport Express 600; tickets £2/3 single/return, buses run every 20mins peak times Mon-Sat, reduced service Sun. Tickets can be purchased at the Airport TIC or on the bus. Approved airport taxis charge c. £8 for the 10min ride into the city centre. You can take a less frequent train into the city or, in the opposite direction, to Holywood and Bangor, from the nearby Sydenham halt.

Belfast International Airport K/L-3, tel. (+44) (0)28 9448 4848, www.belfastairport.com. Situated 29km north of the city centre along the M2 motorway, fa-cilities include postal services, ATMs, currency exchange, a business lounge, wifi and a tourist information desk. To get to town by bus, Airport Express 300 to the Europa Buscentre runs every 15mins at peak times Mon - Fri, (reduced frequency Sat & Sun) and hourly through the night. The 30-40min journey costs £7/10 single/return. A taxi to the city centre takes 30mins and costs c.£30; a list of other sample fares is displayed in the exit hall.

By train & by busTranslink (tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 6630, www.translink.co.uk) operates all NI bus and rail services; its three main Belfast transport hubs are listed below. There are no left luggage facilities at any Translink stations.

Belfast Central Rail Station D-2, East Bridge St. All major destinations are served such as Derry (including a picturesque portion of the North Coast) and Dublin (a c.2hr journey on the flagship Enterprise service). ATMs dispense Euros and £Sterling. Keep your rail ticket for a free bus ride into town via any Metro service outside the main entrance. Alternatively, turn left outside the main entrance and take a 10min stroll into the city centre.

Europa Buscentre and Great Victoria Street Rail Station B-2, Great Victoria St. Buses from the city’s most centrally located transport hub serve the South and West, including Dublin, Derry, and Belfast and Dublin airports. National Express buses from GB and continental Europe also terminate here. The Gt. Victoria St. railway stop is at the far end of the concourse.

Laganside Buscentre D-1, Donegall Quay. The c i t y’s second sh iny bus stat ion serves the Nor th and East including Por trush, Bangor and the Ards Peninsula.

Belfast Weather

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D Sauna C Swimming pool

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Y Belfast Visitor Pass h Admission free

Symbol key

6 Arriving & BAsics


Disabled travellersThe Disability Discrimination Act ensures public places provide access for people with a disabil i ty. Contact Disability Action, tel (+44) (0)28 9029 7880, www.disabilityaction.org.

ElectricityBelfast buzzes with 240V coursing through its domestic electricity supply. Plugs are the bulky three-pin variety so pack your two-pin adaptor for a closer shave.

Money & Post OfficeNI’s currency is £ Sterling, the same as the rest of the UK. Banks open Mon-Fri 09:30-16:30 and some city centre branches open Sat 09:00-12:00. When getting cash from an ATM or in change you will often be given Northern Irish notes. While different in design to those used in Great Britain (England, Scotland and Wales) they are legal tender across the UK. Some GB shops and services may well turn their noses up at the sight of a Northern Irish tenner, so best to change them before you leave NI. Post Office, C-1, 12 Bridge St. Open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Tues 09:30 - 17:30.

SafetyDespite its reputation, Belfast is very safe for tourists. However, if you feel unsafe, freephone 999 or track down a police officer - usually found pounding the city in pairs.

Smoking & AlcoholSmoking is illegal in enclosed and substantially enclosed workplaces and public places, including bars and restaurants, and in certain vehicles. The legal drinking age is 18.

Telephone dialling codesFrom UK landlines or mobiles, add the prefix 028 before all eight digit NI numbers. The international dialling code is (+44)(0)28. If dialling from the Republic of Ireland you can also use the prefix 048.

Translink runs all NI public rail (NI Railways) and bus (Ulsterbus and Metro) networks. For full info tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 6630, www.translink.co.uk.

Belfast by busMetro is the name for Belfast’s bus service. Most buses start their journey from Belfast City Centre.Metro Day Tickets - Explore Belfast in your own way with these hop-on hop-off day tickets. £3.50: unlimited daily Metro network use Mon - Sat.£3 Mon - Sat after 09:30 or all day Sun (purchase 09:30 - 15:00 Mon - Sat and all day Sun). Child fares half price. Metro Day Tickets valid for travel on day of purchase only and cannot be transferred.

Belfast-Dublin Airport-Dublin City by coachUlsterbus Goldline Service No: 200 operates daily be-tween Europa Buscentre and Dublin Airport/Dublin city (c.2hrs/2hrs 30mins) hourly 05:00 - 21:00, then early bird services at 23:00, 01:00 - 03:00.

Northern Ireland by train - NI RailwaysNI Railways operates a rail network across the province serving the following routes (see map p.10):Bangor line: Bangor-BelfastLarne line: Larne Harbour-BelfastDerry line: Derry-Coleraine* and Portrush-Belfast* Please note: the railway line between Londonderry – Coleraine is currently closed for major track improvement work. Bus substitution services are currently in place.Portadown line: Newry-Portadown-BelfastDublin line: Belfast-Portadown-Newry-Dundalk-Drogheda-Dublin (Enterprise Train - see p.5).

Sunday Day Tracker: Unlimited Sunday travel on all NI scheduled train services. (£6.50/£3.25). No time restrictions apply.

Northern Ireland by bus - UlsterbusNI Rambler Services: Translink operate a number of services to promote tourism in rural areas. These are ideal for tourists and locals who want to explore some of NI’s most spectacular scenery by foot. Rambler services set down and pick up at key locations, and service main bus stations. Tickets can be purchased from the driver.Year-round SeasonalKilkeel Rambler Causeway RamblerSperrin Rambler Mourne RamblerBus Rambler Ticket: available every Sun and during main NI school holidays. Unlimited travel on all Ulster-bus, Goldline and Metro Services. Must be purchased after 9.15am. Available from the driver (£9/£4.50).

Translink Family & Friends tickets are available every Sat, Sun and main school holidays for £20 and provide unlimited bus and rail travel for up to 2 adults and 4 children (min. 1 adult and 1 child) anywhere in NI.

Bus & Rail iLink SmartcardUnlimited day, weekly or monthly bus and rail travel within 5 specified zones. Available for adults and children and is ideal if you travel by both bus and train on a regular basis. It is easy to use and can be topped up at one of the designated sales outlets.

All fares and services subject to alteration.

Public Transport

Day ticket £2Buy your ticketbetween 9.30 - 3pmand travel all day

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Love Metro Saturdays

Belfast Welcome Centre C-2, 47 Donegall Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6609, www.gotobelfast.com. Open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Info desks also at both airports. Y

West Belfast Tourist Information Point E-3, An Cultúrlann, 216 Falls Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9096 4180, www.culturlann.ie. Y

Tourist Information Centres

Passengers can ride Belfast’s extensive Metro Bus system for just £2 every Sat from 1 Sept to 17 Nov between 09:30 and 15:00.Translink’s Love Metro Saturdays of fer has been designed to encourage car-free commuting into the city centre to enjoy shoppping, events and sightseeing. So forget about car parking charges or getting stuck in traffic and enjoy everthing Belfast and NI2012 has to offer.

Love Metro Saturdays

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Sandyknowes

BallyhenryRoad

FairviewRoad

DoaghRoad

Cloughfern

StationRoad

MalluskIndustrialEstate

AntrimRoad

Roughfort

Hydepark

BallyearlDrive

MilewaterDrive

ManseWay

MonkstownRoad

ChurchRoad

Derrycoole

RathmoreDrive

Glengormley

EastAntrimInstitute

Carr’sGlen

LimestoneRoad

CavehillRoad Downview

(Innisfayle Rd)

SomertonRoad

SkegoneillAvenue

JellicoeAvenue

M5

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AntrimRoad

Belfast Castle

Belfast Zoo

Bellevue

WhitewellRoad

LoughsidePark

SeaviewFootballStadium

ShoreRoad

ArthurRoad

BradenPark

Abbey-centre

Silverstream

AllianceAvenue

Oldpark(Westland Rd)

TwaddellAvenue

CrumlinRoad

CarlisleCircus

AlexandraPark Ave

OldparkRoad

DuncairnGardens

YorkRoad

GroveBaths

DuncrueRoad

DarganRoad

West BankRoad (Stena)

HolywoodExchange (IKEA)

NewtownardsRoad

ConnswaterBridge

HolywoodRoad

CairnburnRoad

SydenhamRoad

VictoriaPark

TitanicQuarter

BelmontRoad

ConnsbrookAvenue

DivisStreet

LowerFalls

GlenRoad

Falls Road

MonaghRoad

Springfield Road

RoyalVictoriaHosp.

WhiterockRoad

GrosvenorRoad

ShankillRoad

MaterHospital

FallsPark

RiverdalePark

BoucherRoad

CityHospitalSuffolk

Road

LisburnRoad

TatesAvenue

UniversityAvenue

StewartstownRoad

Cherry Road

UpperDunmurryLane

Brian’sWellRoad

Bell SteeleRoad

UniversityRoad

King’s Hall

MaloneRoad

Upper Malone RoadFinaghyRoadSouth

Sicily Park

StranmillisRoad

BalmoralStranmillis

Ormeau(Forestside)

BelvoirDrive

BelvoirRoad

Malone(Erinvale)

Kingsway

BallybogRoad

Conway

KnockbredaRoad

NewtonPark

Cairnshill Road

SaintfieldRoad

Mount-pottingerRoad

AlbertBridge

BeersbridgeRoad

Glen Road

Ballygowan Road

RavenhillRoad

OrmeauRoad Montgomery

Road

MountMerrionAvenue

AlbertbridgeRoad

CregaghRoad

WhincroftWay

GrandParade

CregaghPark

WoodstockRoad

CastlehillRoad

Massey Ave.

UpperNewtownardsRoad

NorthRoad

StormontEstate

ClaraRoad

Braniel / Gilnahirk

KnockRoad

TwinbrookEstate

M2 Motorway

CliftonvilleRoad

Stockman’sLane

MusgraveParkHospital

BallysillanRoad

Queen’sUniversity

AnnadaleAvenue

Beechgrove

LadasDrive

GilnahirkRoad

MelfortDrive

King’s RoadEast Link Road

ComberRoad

Old DundonaldRoad

UlsterHospital(Dundonald)

StoneyRoad

CircularRoad

CarnmoneyRoad

ManseRoad

Mossley

MonkstownAvenue

RoyalMail

MountainhillRoad

BallygomartinRoad

WoodvaleRoad

West CircularRoad

Yorkgate

Airport RdWest

Monkstown(Devenish Drive)

Carnmoney /Ballyhenry

ForthillDrive

NewMossley

M2 Motorway

Ligoniel

Glencairn

ForthriverRoad

Springmartin

KennedyCentre

Glencolin

PoleglassEstate

Ladybrook

ParkCentre

LagmoreView

MountEagles

SummerhillRoad

Balmoral

NewforgeLane

FourWinds

MountMerrion

BallybeenEstate

CoopersMill Park

OldHolywoodRoad

DarganCrescent

Holywood Road(Knocknagoney)

Upper Knockbreda Road

CastlereaghRoad

ForsterGreenHospital

Beechill

AndersonstownRoad Boucher

Crescent

Ballyduff

SydenhamBy-pass

George BestBelfast City Airport

Jackson's Road

OldHolywoodRoadBelfast

Road

SandownRoad

Donegall Road

HawthorndenWay

M2

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TudorDrive

CarnmoneyRoad

Ligoniel

ShawsRoad

St. Annes

BlacksRoad

DonegallPark Ave

Laurelgrove

Park& Ride

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rway

FinaghyRoadNorth

Showing High FrequencyCorridors within theMetro Network

Queen’sBridge

School Road

Tesco

NewtownbredaRoad

Queen’sRoad

CircularRoad

JordanstownRoad

NorthcottShoppingCentre Doagh

Road

BlackrockSquare

PPark& Ride

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Antrim RoadShore RoadHolywood RoadUpper Newtownards RdCastlereagh RoadCregagh RoadOrmeau RoadMalone RoadLisburn RoadFalls RoadShankill RoadOldpark Road

Main Corridors within Metro NetworkFrom every5-10 mins

From every15-30 mins

Other Routes

Single direction routes indicated by arrows

Inbound Outbound Circular Route

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Terminus City ExpressPark & Ride 13

1. NIR Central Station2. NIR Great Victoria St 3. NIR Yorkgate Station

4. Laganside Buscentre5. Europa Buscentre

Main Interchange Stations

Ulsterbus StationNIRailways Station

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BelfastCity

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11culture & events

CinemasMovie House C-3, 14 Dublin Rd, tel. (+44)(0)28 9024 5700, www.moviehouse.co.uk. This locally-owned chain of multiscreen cinemas shows all the latest Hollywood blockbusters in state-of-the-art surroundings. Its Dublin Road site is conveniently located for a spot of city centre celluloid escapism. Paid parking is available at the adjacent multi-storey, with free on-street parking after 18:00. Also at City Side Shopping Centre, York Rd. with free parking (F-2). Check website for all the latest ticket, meal and parking deals. QAdult £5.80, U15 £4.30, 2+2 £15, Senior Citizens £4, Students £4.25, all seats before 17:30 £4, Crazy Tuesdays £3 all shows. No extra charge for 3D films.

Queen’s Film Theatre B-4, 20 University Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9097 1097, www.queensfilmtheatre.com. Known locally as the QFT, NI’s premier arthouse cinema has been the home of classic, Irish, foreign, avante garde and cult cinema since 1968. Now boasting two screens and a fully licensed café bar, buy yourself a coffee and sink back into the coolest cinema seats in town (not literally). K

Theatres & Concert VenuesBelfast Waterfront D-2, 2 Lanyon Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 4455, www.waterfront.co.uk. Opened in 1997, this gleaming concert hall and conference centre is a striking architectural riverfront venue. The glass-fronted three-storey building holds a bar, gift shop and the Arc Brasserie. The spacious foyer also hosts regular free art exhibitions. Performances in the main 2245-seat arena range from big-name performers and classical music to cheesy tribute bands and international opera and ballet. Many busi-ness conferences are based here, and the 380-seat Studio provides a more intimate setting for drama, comedy and music events. KY

Grand Opera House B-2, Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 1919, www.goh.co.uk. Catch a show at this striking Victorian theatre and gaze in awe at its opulent gilt moldings, carved plasterwork, angels-and-cherub fresco and elephant boxes. Designed in l894 by famous theatre architect Frank Matcham, the landmark building’s contemporary atrium-style extension has a Baby Grand performance space for smaller shows and Luciano’s restaurant, named after opera giant Pava-rotti who made his UK debut on these very boards. The varied year-round programme includes drama, musicals, ballet, opera and the hugely popular Christmas panto. Tours available. KY

King’s Hall E-4, Balmoral, tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 5225, www.kingshall.co.uk. This large complex in south Belfast-dates back to 1934 and is the city’s largest Art Deco building. Its 32acre Showgrounds and various Exhibition Halls hosts conferences, events and, in the past, great boxing moments including Barry McGuigan’s successful World Title defence in 1985. An annual funfair, and agricultural, motor, holiday, home and garden shows, draw the crowds. L

Lyric Theatre F-3, 55 Ridgeway St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9038 1081, www.lyrictheatre.co.uk. NI has no National Theatre, but if it did it would be the Lyric. Established in 1951, the Lyric moved to its £18m purpose-built Laganside venue in 2011. This large brick and glass ediface houses a 389 seat auditorium, performance studio, rehearsal room, conference space and cafe/bar. Check out its eclectic range of quality drama, with classic Irish plays and works by exciting new writers at its heart. Film star Liam Neeson began his acting career here and is the Lyric’s patron. K

FREE ONLINE BOOKING!LOADS OF GREAT VALUE TICKET OFFERS!

MOVIE HOUSE CINEMASDublin Road

14 Dublin Road, Belfast, BT2 7HNCityside (Yorkgate)

Cityside Retail Centre, 100 York Street, Belfast, BT15 1WAwww.moviehouse.co.uk

BELFAST’S OWN INDEPENDENTCINEMA COMPANY

mhc_iyp_july.indd 1 02/08/2012 13:49

Main Bus & Rail Interchange

Dublin Line Londonderry Line

Portadown/Newry Line

Bangor Line Portrush Line

Larne Line

Airport Express 300 service to Belfast International Airport

Airport Express 600 service toGeorge Best Belfast City Airport

KEY

Free bus into town

Rail passengers with a valid rail ticket can travel between Central Station and Belfast city centre free of charge on Translink Metro bus services.

Free Ulsterbus connections from Newry Station to Newry city centre and from Londonderry Station to Derry city centre.

ROUTE MAP

Larne TownGlynn

MagheramorneBallycarry

WhiteheadDownshire

CarrickfergusClipperstown

TrooperslaneGreenisland

JordanstownWhiteabbey

Yorkgate

AdelaideBalmoral

FinaghyDunmurry

DerriaghyLambeg

HildenLisburn

MoiraLurgan

PortadownScarvaPoyntzpassNewry

Dundalk

DUBLIN

Drogheda

Ballymoney

Cullybackey

Antrim

Ballymena

Mossley West

LONDONDERRY PORTRUSH

Titan

ic Qua

rter

Holyw

ood

Cultra

Helen’s

Bay

Bango

r Wes

t

Syden

ham

Marino

Seahil

l

Carnale

aBELFASTCENTRAL

BotanicCity Hospital

GT VICTORIA STREETEUROPA BUSCENTRE

University

BANGOR

LARNEHARBOUR

Bellarena Castlerock COLERAINE Dhu Varren

www.translink.co.uk or call 028 90 66 66 30

The MAC -Metropolitan Arts Centre C-1, Saint Anne’s Square, Cathedral Quarter, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 5053, www.themaclive.com. This brand new £18m creative arts hub dominates one side of the equally dramatic Saint Anne’s Square. The six-storey colossus houses three art galleries, two theatres, a dance studio and workshop space. World-class local and international performances, exhibitions and classes for all ages populate its cultural calendar. And a cafe and bar encourage further creative col-laboration and contemplation. Q Daily 10:00 - 19:00. Later on performance nights. Paid parking at adjacent Saint Anne’s Square multi-storey car park. JLK

Odyssey Arena D-1, 2 Queen’s Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9045 1055, www.theodyssey.co.uk. This modern enter-tainment complex in Titanic Quarter is Belfast’s landmark Mil-lennium Project and a major symbol of the city’s rejuvenation. When the Belfast Giants ice hockey team isn’t in residence, the main 10,000-seat Arena pulls in music big guns including Rihanna, Lady Gaga, MTV EMAs and, er, The X Factor. You get the picture. The adjoining Odyssey Pavilion has several restaurants for pre-show eats.LK

Ulster Hall C-2, Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 3900, www.ulsterhall.co.uk. Opened in 1862, this grand old Victorian building has hosted boxing, music, comedy... and iconic names such as Charles Dickens, The Rolling Stones and Belfast-born singer Ruby Murray. Its main interior feature is the magnificent Mul-holland Organ. During WW2, it became a dance hall for US troops. And Led Zeppelin first performed Stairway to Heaven at the es-teemed venue. Following a major renovation, the hall continues to attract a diverse range of year-round events and entertainment. It is also the home of the internationally acclaimed Ulster Orchestra. Check out the foyer’s Café Grand Dame and exhibition of the Hall’s history. JYK

12 Culture & events


Th is November, the Lady Boys of B a n g k o k b r i n g their spectacular song and dance cabaret to Be l -fa s t ’s C u s t o m H o u s e S q u a r e for a third fabulous year. And this time the t roupe tu rn ‘Carnival Queens’ t o d e l i v e r t w o weeks of pulsating beats and sizzling costumes in this fiesta of fun. It’s Belfast meets Bra-zil via Thailand! The all-new show brings sixteen of the world’s most beautiful showgirls (who just happen to be men) to their home-from-home, the specially constructed Sabai Pavil-ion from Sat 3 - Sat 17 Nov. And this year’s extravaganza promises an irresistible mix of comedy, cabaret and raunchy capers as the ladies perform hits of superstars such as Lady Gaga, Christina Aguilera, Katy Perry, Shirley Bassey and Queen.

Expect an up-for-it crowd to get on their feet as the divas pout and preen their way through a non-stop set of sing-a-long faves. Audience participation is positively encouraged and the atmosphere wil be electric from start to grand finale finish. And to complete your exotic escape Thai Master Chef Miss Khanittha Pornngarm serves up her authentic dishes while the venue’s fully-stocked bars keep the audience’s lungs well lubricated.

Round off your evening of unforgettable entertainment by having your photo taken with the Lady Boys of Bangkok or bagging a copy of their souvenir brochure. Tickets can be purchased on-line at www.whatsontickets.com or by tel. 0871 705 0705 (10p per minute from a BT landline). And you can find out more about the show at www.ladyboysofbangkok.co.uk.

WIN TWO TICKETS FOR THE BIG SHOWFor a chance to win a pair of tickets to the show, click ‘Like’ on our Facebook page then email the name of the capital of Thailand, together with your contact name and number to [email protected] by Sun 28 Oct.

Lady Boys of BangkokBestriding the city like a cultural colossus, the Belfast Festival at Queen’s is Northern Ireland’s big annual shindig. And this year marks the event’s half century entertaining the city. Over the decades, superstars such as Jimi Hendrix, Billy Connolly, Laurence Olivier and Ennio Morricone have enraptured audiences. So who’s in town from 19 Oct - 4 Nov for its landmark 50th anniversary?

Ray Davis, Lesley Garrett, Buena Vista Social Club, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, and dinner and a show in the company of Van Morrison, head up the big music names. And the Festival kicks off on Fri 19 Oct at 17:00 in Victoria Square with Fifty Fanfares, a free musical event combining brass players with cutting-edge technology.

Drama has always been at the forefront of the Festival and this year audiences can expect a local twist on Shakespeare’s classic tragedy as Macbeth takes centre stage at the Lyric Theatre. The MAC is the venue for a fresh theatrical production of James Joyce’s Ulysses. And the bicentennial of the birth of Charles Dickens inspires a selection of events commemorating his three Belfast visits.

Staying with the literary scene, Ian Rankin discusses his new Rebus tome while fellow Scot John Gordon Sinclair (of Gregory’s Girl fame) introduces his debut novel. Enjoy the company of one of the world’s most lauded writers, and theatre and opera directors, in An Audience with Jonathan Miller. And there’s more conversation in the company of such diverse guests as Irish President Michael D. Higgins, uncompromising journalist Peter Hitchens and local footballing legend Norman Whiteside.

Dara O’Briain, Scott Capuro and old school fun from the legendary Mick Miller keep the laughs loud as part of the big comedy line-up. Festival patrons of all ages can enjoy innovative puppet shows, mesmerising circus and Scottish Opera’s family-friendly production The Elephant Angel. While Botanic Gardens becomes the ever popular Enchanted Garden from 1-4 Nov - book ahead to ensure your passage through this illuminated wonderland.

The theme-packed programme races from a platform for all things Ireland in 50 Shades of Green to a celebration of comic book women in Graphic Grrrls! The history, traditions and folklore of Mexico are headed up with the Day of the Dead - a skull-encrusted fiesta and Skeleton Parade on 4 Nov. And to mark Festival 50, join PLACE (see p.45) on their special Red Plaque Tours showcas-ing the event’s main venues through the years.

Art, dance and film bring yet more thought-provoking and fun-filled days and nights out at city-wide locations. So get your hands on the programme or check out www.belfastfestival.com to see the full line-up and book your tickets.

50th Belfast Festival at Queen’s

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15HALLOWE’EN IN BELFAST14 HALLOWE’EN IN BELFAST


tales will resonate long after the tour’s conclusion. A quirky and enlightening way to spend a spooky evening in the city. Q 24-31 Oct Hallowe’en Tours last c.75mins and dept. Bel-fast City Hall front gates 18:30, 19:30 & 20:30. Turn up on the night or book ahead to secure your scream. Private tours also available. Adult £10, age 10-16 £7, age 6-9 £5. JY

Hallowe’en Shows at Aunt Sandra’s Candy Fac-tory G-3, 60 Castlereagh Rd, M5, tel. (+44) (0)28 9073 2868, www.auntsandras. Get into the Hallowe’en spirit with these delicious workshops designed to indulge your every sugar-filled whim. Chomp your way through a feast of toffee apples, sticky skulls and lots of other freaky eats at this East Belfast candy emporium. And learn how to make your own creepy creations. The guys and gals at Aunt Sandra’s have gone Hallowe’en crazy with their seasonal treats, so if you’re planning a party or fancy taking a tour, take a trip to the cutest sweet shop in town. For more info, see our main listing on p.59.

Paranormal Tours at Crumlin Road Gaol F-2, 53-55 Crumlin Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6609, www.crum-linroadgaol.com. Ahead of its 19 Nov opening, this North Belfast prison invites ghosthunters inside its historic walls to track down the undead. Half Night Tours from 23:00 on Fri 20 and Sat 21 Oct cost £50. While Mon 22 Oct tours at 19:00 and 20:15 cost £13. Tours are hosted by the NI Paranormal Research Association and strictly for over 18s. Pre-book online and meet at the gates of the Gaol 15mins before the tour begins. Warm clothing and flat shoes are recommended. Presumably for a quick escape when the ghouls come knock-ing... not for the faint-hearted. Find out more about the Gaol and the launchof its regular tours on p.42.

Front Gates of City HallFrom 24th - 31st October At 6.30pm, 7.30pm & 8.30pmAdult: £10.00Child: 10-16: £7.00 | 6 - 9: £5.001hr 15min

Where -When -

Price -

Time -

D-1, Odyssey Complex, 2 Queen’s Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9046 7700, www.w5online.co.uk. On Hallowe’en Week, W5 interactive discovery centre at the Odyssey prepares to scare and explore with slimy dips, scary beasts and spooky crafts. To find out more about W5’s opening hours and prices, flick to our main feature on p.47.

Hallowe’en SnapperzSat 27 Oct - Sat 3 Nov 11:30 - 13:00 except SunUsing simple paper craft techniques make a horrifying Hallowe’en snapping creature to frighten your friends and family.

Spooky DipSat 27 Oct - Sun 4 Nov14:00 - 17:00 dailyI n du l ge i n th ree h ou rs o f squ i d g y, squ e l chy, squashy surprises as you conquer your overactive imagination and bravely plunge your paws into the unknown and shock your way through the spooky dip experience.

Monster Big HedzSat 27 Oct - Sun 4 Nov 14:00pm - 17:00 daily W5’s Atrium has seen many unusual sights over the year but nothing quite like this motley crew! Meet the ‘Rogues’ Gallery’ of cartoon monsters and have your picture taken with our Frankenstein, Pumpkin King & Werewolf ‘Big Hedz’ - bring your camera along to capture your little monster’s moment.

Hallowe’en at W5

Did you know that Hallowe’en began right here in Ireland? The Festival of Samhain - Irish for summer’s end - cel-ebrated of the end of the harvest season and beginning of ‘The Celtic New Year’. On the night of 31 Oct it was believed the boundaries be-tween the worlds of the living and dead overlapped. Celts would light large communal bonfires to ward off evil spirits, and scatter the bones of slaughtered livestock on the fire. All Soul’s Night takes place at the same time and is a mainly Catholic tradition of praying for departed souls caught between purgatory and Heaven. Mass Irish emigration ensured Hallowe’en festivities took root in America. Back in Belfast, from 5-18 Nov the Diwali & Samhain Festival celebrates our connection with India at this time of year in a packed programme of culture, arts and entertain-ment. Find out more at www.artsekta.co.uk, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 1381. So, when you’re watching the fireworks and dunking for ap-ples, remember the local origins of this spooky celebration.

Hallowe’en Metro Monster MashOn Sun 28 Oct, pint-sized Potters and mini Merlins join ogres of all ages to enjoy Belfast’s annual Hallowe’en fireworks fiesta. The city’s sparkliest, spookiest event takes over the Odyssey Car Park from 14:00-18:00.Live on-stage music and dance, street theatre and walkabout per formances, fire shows, face painters and prizes for the best costumes keep the crowds entertained. Then, at 17:45, the night sky erupts with 15 non-stop minutes of fantastic fireworks - the largest display in N. Ireland.

The extravaganza always draws huge crowds, so get there early to make the most of the fun. Parking is restricted at the site, so hop on the free Translink Metro shuttle bus service running from SS Moores in Chichester Street to the Odyssey and back to City Hall from 14:00 - 19:00.

Hallowe’en Fireworks Boat TripGet up close to the sky high action without all those crowds by stepping aboard these Lagan Boat Company trips. The Halloween Firework Boats sail on Sun 28 Oct at 17:00 and 17:15 in time to catch the big Odyssey display. Tickets cost £10pp and U5s go free. And the boats also run a Half Term Halloween Timetable from Sun 28 Oct - Fri 2 Nov with daily sailings at 12:30 and 14:00. Book online at www.laganboatcompany.com or tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 0844. And see our main listing on p.23.

Belfast Ghost Walk C-2, tel. (+44) (0)7961 717992, www.ghostwalkbelfast.com. Journey through the dark shadows and alleyways of haunted Belfast with Richard van Horn and his team of local true crime enthusiasts. A keen Rip-perologist (that’s Jack the Ripper aficionado to you and me) and member of the exclusive Victorian White Chapel Society, Richard and his trained up team will lead you through some of the city’s lesser known darker past to discover its link to Jack the Ripper and infamous bodysnatchers Burke and Hare. Told with theatrical flourish, these meticulously researched

16 Christmas in Belfast


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Belvoir Players Christmas Panto

Christmas Continental Market and Lights Switch On

NI’s theatre scene has a long and proud tradition of ama-teur dramatics. And the guys and gals at Belvoir Players are among the best in the business. The award-winning company began in 1968 and today boasts a dedicated troupe of 75 adults augmented by a flourishing Theatre Academy of 150 young people aged 4-18.

From Dec 19 – Jan 5, Jack and the Beanstalk takes centre stage as the Belvoir Players returns for its 40th fun-filled pantomime. Watch our hero find the magic beans and battle the gruesome giant in this music and dance-filled Christmas fiesta. Tickets cost £8 (£7 conc.) and booking ahead is extremely advisable as the panto always draws a big crowd. See their ad on our inside back cover for info on performance times and prices.

As well as the annual panto, the 2012 Autumn drama season is packed with classics, comedy and concerts per-

formed by accomplished local theatre and music groups. Expect an array of entertainment, from Animal Farm to Alan Bennett, with the Castlereagh Drama Festival running from Nov 15-17.

The Players’ por tfolio of productions is per formed both at the purpose-buil t Belvoir Players Studio and in theatres across NI and beyond. Catch the panto and Autumn performances at the Studio which is less than four miles south of Belfast city centre - follow the Belvoir Forest sign on the Outer Ring close to the Ramada Hotel.

To find out more about all shows and book tickets, tel. (+44) (0)28 9049 1210 or (+44) (0)28 9064 9835. And for more details on Belvoir Players’ schemes and shows, and how to get to the Studio theatre, visit www.belvoirplayers.org.

The Belfast Christmas Market returns to the grounds of City Hall on Sat 17 Nov following the switching on of the city’s Christmas Lights. This perennially popular shop-ping extravaganza captivates thousands of revellers with food, drink and gift stalls laden with eats and treats from home and abroad.

Celebrate the festive season with a delicious glass of Glühwein as you browse the wares of over 80 traders. The Christmas Market offers a gastronomic journey from French crepes and Belgian chocolates to an exotic selection of ostrich, wild boar and crocodile burgers.

Giant Bratwurst served from the iconic Schwenkgrille, Spanish Paella, and nougat from Italy are also available for hungry festive shoppers. Closer to home, you can show your support for local retailers from St George’s Market - who make up over 30% of all traders - and enjoy the best of Northern Irish produce. While handmade gifts including winter-warm Peruvian clothing made from genuine Alpaca wool, Aztec jewellery and some Parisian fashion keep the global vibe on trend.

This year, the shopping experience will be enhanced by the musical offerings of community choirs, including a very spe-cial treat from the ‘Pickwick Players’ performing traditional Dickensian carols in authentic Victorian costume, as part of the Dickens 2012 bicentenary celebrations.

The Market is open Mon-Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Thur-Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00 until Thur 20 Dec. For more information, follow the Belfast Continental Christmas Market on Facebook.


19sport & leisure18 Sport & leiSure


L-3, 57 Ballyskeagh Rd, Lambeg, Lisburn, Co. Down, tel. (+44)(0)28 9061 0070, www.drum-bopark.com. Place your bet on 10-11 live races every Thur, Fri and Sat night then sit back, enjoy a fabulous three-course meal at the 300 seater Grandstand Restaurant (see listing p.32) and watch your sleek running machine romp to victory. And between races, you can follow more on-screen ac-tion from Dublin’s stadiums for more betting fun. NI’s only greyhound stadium is a mere 20min drive from Belfast city centre, and its ample free parking ensures a seamless start and finish to your big night out. Two bars, fast food, Tote booths, resident bookmakers and 95 large plasma screens keep you close to the action and bet-ready. Check the website for the latest Race & Dine packages and promotions. QPark open 18:30. First race 19:30/19:45. Last race 22:30. Bar open until 23:00. LK

Drumbo Park Greyhound Stadium

Ormeau Golf Club C-3, 50 Park Rd, M7, tel. (+44) (0)28 9064 0700, w w w.ormeaugolfclub.co.uk. Formed in 1893, this nine-hole course is one of the old-est golf clubs in Ireland. Its mature parkland setting can claim two-time major champion Rory McIlroy, 1947 British Open Champion Fred Daly and Sherlock Holmes’ creator Sir Arthur Conan Doyle among its patrons. Visitor-friendly, centrally located and with views of Belfast’s hills and the Harland & Wolff cranes, find it off the Ravenhill and Ormeau Roads. LK

GASP (Gravity Action Sports Park) L-4, Tullyree Rd, Bryansford, nr. Newcastle, Co. Down, tel. (+44) (0)7739 210119, www.gaspactionsports.com. Try out a range of Mournes-based extreme sports, many unique to the island of Ireland including Surfin’ Dirt mountain boarding - a cross between snowboarding and skateboarding Other high-octane and inventive activities include a mountain bike trail, powerkites, blokarting (think go-kart with sail) and fris-bee golf. Stags, hens and birthday parties are all welcome. Q Mountain board sessions from £10, frisbee golf £6 unlimited daily play, powerkite and blokart experiences from £25.

Odyssey Bowl D-1, Odyssey Pavilion, 2 Queen’s Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9045 2100, www.odyssey-bowl.co.uk. This mega enter tainment den features ten-pin bowling, pool tables, video games, bar and fast food restaurant. From Wed-Sat the ultimate Glo-Bowling experience introduces music and UV lights taking the game to a whole new dimension. Kids par ties and corporate packages rack up the entertainment factor. Q Mon-Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun and school hols (check ahead) 10:00 - 23:00.

Antrim GAA off F-4, Casement Park, Anderstown Rd., tel. (+44) (0)28 9060 5868, www.antrimgaa.net. The Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) dates back to the late 1800s and has its roots in Irish language and culture. Hurling, Gaelic Football and camogie are Ireland’s three indigenous Gaelic Games and Casement Park (est. 1953, cap. 32,500) is their Belfast home. In a nutshell, hurling is a tougher form of hockey with players brandishing thick, wooden ’hurleys’, teams of 15 Gaelic Footballers can kick and run with the ball, scoring points over the crossbar (1) or in goal (3), and camogie is a female version of hurling. The Gaelic Football season is year-round and its glamour tournament, the All-Ireland Championship, runs May-Sept with the winning County collecting the Sam Maguire Cup.

Belfast Giants D-1, Odyssey Arena, Queen’s Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9073 9074, www.belfastgiants.com. The Belfast Giants debuted at the sparkly new Odyssey Arena in December 2000 and, to everyone’s amazement, quickly established a huge following. The non-sectarian, community-friendly team ticks all the right boxes and, with Canadian players dominating the squad, the Giants continue to attract an impressive fan base. The team won the 2011-12 UK Elite League Championship. The season runs Sept-April.

Ulster Rugby G-3, Ravenhill Stadium, 85 Ravenhill Pk, tel. (+44) (0)28 9049 3222, www.ulsterrugby.com. The 12,500 capacity Ravenhill Stadium is home to Ulster Rugby - one of the four rugby teams representing Ireland’s provinces (the others being Leinster, Munster and Connacht). The most illustrious moment in the club’s history was in January 1999 when the team lifted the European Cup. In 2012 they were also runners-up in the same tournament. Each season the team competes in the RaboDirect Pro12 and Heineken Cup.

When it comes to sport, North-ern Ireland has always punched above its weight.

Iconic footballer G e o r ge B e s t , gol f’s Rory Mc-I l r o y, G r a e m e M cDowel l an d Darren Clarke, boxing’s Barr y M c G u i g a n , snooker’s Alex ’Hurricane’ Hig-gins and Dennis Taylor, motorcy-cl ist Joey Dun-lop, F1’s Eddie

Irvine, 1972 Olympic gold medal-winning pentathlete Dame Mary Peters and champion jockey Tony McCoy are just some of the locals who have made it big in their chosen fields.

Add to that i l lustrious l ist recent London 2012 successes with Olympic rowers Alan Campbell and brothers Peter and Richard Chambers, boxers Paddy Barnes and Michael Conlon and Paralympic swimmer Bethany Firth, and athletes Michael McKillop and Jason Smyth.

NI sporting stars go global The Jungle NI K-2, 60 Desertmartin Rd, Money-more, Magherafelt, Co. L/Derry, tel. (+44)(0)28 8674 8881, w w w.thejungleni.com. NI’s original paintball and Zorbing site also boasts a 60ft High Wire, Tree Top Adventure Course with zip-wires, rope bridges and scramble nets in a natural forest setting. I ts ’King Louis Descent’ power fan drop is a 30.6kph freefall without parachute or bungee cord. The Tree Top Course is open all year and costs £10-£35 depending on how ’extreme’ a high ropes adventure you’re after. Other activities include Clay Pigeon Shooting, Archery and Team Building Games. Advance booking is essential, especially during peak periods such as weekends and school holidays. Find the venue just 45mins from Belfast. LK

Segway NI K-3, Craigavon Lakes Site, Tannaghmore Gardens, Silverwood, Craigavon, Co. Armagh, tel. (+44)(0)7764 448673, www.segwayni.co.uk. NI’s first first full-scale Segway operator runs tours on these two-wheeled self-balancing vehicles from their Craigavon Lakes, Co. Armagh base. Riders can be aged 10+ (U16 with accompanying adult rider) and, after initial training, the Segways can reach speeds of 12.5mph - faster than you think! Easy to use, extremely safe, eco-friendly and incredibly fun, get in touch with the guys to arrange your trip. Personal and Golf Hire (yes they come with golf bag holder) are also available to give your get together a quirky twist. The team has extensive skills and experience in Stag & Hen Parties, Birthday Parties, Corporate Events and entertainment, and any group size and function can be catered for. These two-wheeled machines are, as the boys say, the best outdoor pursuit you will try. We say it’s time to give them a whirl.

Northern Ireland A-5, Windsor Park, Tates Ave, off Lisburn Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 9458, www.irishfa.com. Owned by local team Linfield FC and used for NI internationals, this 14,000-seater stadium rises up amid rows of terraced houses on the lower Lisburn Road. Soccer legend George Best is NI’s most famous alumni and the team reached the World Cup Finals in ’56, ’82 and ’86. NI memorably beat England here during the 2006 World Cup Qualifying campaign when David Healy scored the only goal. The local Premier League runs Aug-May.

Crusaders FC F1, Seaview Stadium, St Vincent St, Shore Rd, tel. +44 (0)28 9037 0777, www.crusadersfc.com. Fan-owned Crusaders FC (and NI Women’s Premier League champions, Crusaders Strik-ers) is a North Belfast football team formed in 1898 and known as the Hatchetmen. The team won the 2011-12 Setanta All-Ireland Championship and Irn-Bru League Cup. Seaview, the club’s home ground, is a 3200 ca-pacity newly-refurbished stadium that boasts NI’s first ‘4G’ (fourth generation) artificial surface. Stadium hire, pitch bookings, matches (incl. corporate hospitality and Training Suite), football-themed birthday parties, school sports days and corporate/works leisure events are all available at this family-friendly venue. Local premier Amateur League side Newington YC, the IFA’s Football for All, the Peace Players International and a host of community users are among the clubs and associations who use its facilities. Mini soccer runs every Sunday from 12:30 to 14:00. For all Seaview bookings and info contact [email protected] or tel. +44 (0)28 9037 0777.

Local Football


21Belfast’s quarters20 HISTORY


Titanic Quarter (East Belfast)Put simply, Belfast is made up of five areas: North, East, South, West and the City Centre within which cosmopoli-tan Quarters have emerged, providing a focus for culture, tourism and economic development. Cross reference this quick guide with our What to see key (p.42): SB - South Belfast, WB - West Belfast, EB - East Belfast and NB - North Belfast. Easy peasy.

Cathedral Quarter (city centre)N a m e d a f t e r S t . A n n e’s C a t h e d r a l (pic), this city centre Quarter is a vibrant h u b fo r t h e a r t s , restaurants, n ight-l i fe, hotels and big city events. Custom House, S t . Anne’s and Writer’s Squares o f t e n s t a g e f r e e concerts and street entertainment. And D o n e g a l l S t r e e t (where the Cathe -dral stands), Waring Street and cobbled

Hill Street are the Quarter’s main eating and drinking drags. The MAC is the Quarter’s, and city’s, big new arts venue (see p.11 for main listing).

Queen’s Quarter (South Belfast)South Belfast’s leafy, student-strewn thor-oughfares boast the eponymous University (pic), Botanic Gardens and the Ulster Mu-seum. It is here, too, that you’ll find the Lis-burn Road, a stylish shopping and dining strip - for more info check out Shopping (p.58) or click www.visitsouthbelfast.com.

Gaeltacht Quarter (West Belfast)West Bel fast’s Falls Road has in i t iated a Gaeltacht Quarter promoting the use of the Irish language in its shops and ser-vices. A West Belfast map has also been put together show-ing h istoric sights, including St. Peter’s Cathedral (pic), along both the Fal ls and Shankill Roads. Cop-i e s a r e a va i l a b l e at the Fal ls Road’s West Bel fast TIC at An Cul tur lann. And you can find out yet m o r e i n t e r e s t i n g neighbourhood tours

and attractions in our West Belfast section (p.49) or by visiting www.visitwestbelfast.com.

By far the most ambitious development of all, this major project is set to transform 75 hectares of East Belfast’s former shipyard into ’one of the largest water front developments in Europe’ - recession pending. Star of the show is undoubtedly Titanic Belfast - the world’s largest Titanic-themed visitor attraction (pic). Other highlights include SS Nomadic, W5, the Odyssey Arena, PRONI and Titanic’s Dock and Pump-House - all listed in this guide. Beyond this icon, East Belfast is also the birthplace of three international names - The Chronicles of Narnia author CS Lewis, singer-songwriter Van Morrison and football legend George Best - each has a plaque, statue or mural marking their local lineage. And don’t miss Stormont Estate and Parliament Building, heading out of the city along the Newtownards Road. Closer to the city, the Lower Newtownards Road has a large Loyalist political mural, big B&W Titanic mural and the new Yardmen sculpture. Shoppers should navigate their way to Bloomfield Avenue and the Belmont Road with their bijou selection of independent shops, boutiques and cafés.

North BelfastWhi le Nor th Bel fast has yet to establish its own Quarter, its Cave Hill pinnacle (pic) is a real city highlight with dramatic views across Belfast Lough and all the way to Scotland on a good day. Belfast Castle and Belfast Zoo are also top-class at-tractions nestled in this verdant backdrop. Back towards the city, there are several Na-tionalist and Loyalist interfaces with respec-

tive political murals. Conversely, the area also boasts some grand old houses once owned by wealthy and industrious linen merchants - particularly along Fortwilliam Park off the Antrim Road (map: off F-1). Crumlin Road Courthouse and Gaol also falls within its remit and the Gaol re-opens for tours on 19 Nov 2012 (see p.42). Find out more about the area at www.nthbp.org.

Belfast dates back to the early 17th Century and is Northern Ireland’s largest, and the island of Ireland’s second largest, city. The name ’Belfast’ comes from the Gaelic ’Beal Feirste’ (’mouth of the sandy ford’).

1641-49 & 1688-90 Two major Catholic risings are put down, first by English Protestant revolutionary Oliver Cromwell, then the Dutch King William lll of Orange. The fledgling Protestant plantation is secured and Ireland becomes firmly British.18th Century Belfast becomes a major linen-producing centre, earning the tag Linenopolis. 19th Century Belfast experiences a ’golden age’ under Queen Victoria. The Harland & Wolff shipyard is founded in 1862 and city status is granted in 1888. Belfast becomes one of the world’s leading industrial cities and most of its great buildings are constructed. The 1847 Famine re-awakens Irish Catholic Nationalism.

Early 20th Century 1911 May 31 RMS Titanic is launched from Harland & Wolff shipyard, East Belfast. 1912 April 15 Titanic sinks on its maiden voyage, killing over 1500 passengers. The Ulster Volunteer Force (original UVF) is formed and on Sept 28 over 470,000 Unionists sign the Ulster Covenant, pledging to militarily fight Home Rule. 1914-1918 The UVF, and most of the Irish Volunteers, joins up to fight for Britain - both hoping to gain support for their causes. In 1916 Ulster Divisions suffer heavy causalities at the Battle of the Somme. 1921 Following the 1919-21 Irish War of Independence, six of Ireland’s 32 counties remain British and the state - or Province - is named Northern Ireland. Belfast becomes its capital city and the Unionist-controlled government oversees direct rule from the purpose-built Stormont. 1941 Belfast Blitz. During WW2, the city is bombed three times by the German Luftwaffe, killing 955 people and destroying 3,200 homes. Northern Ireland becomes a staging post for over 300,000 American GIs.1968 The Civil Rights movement grows as Nationalists protest Unionist bias at Stormont. The British Army is deployed on the streets of Belfast and Derry.

The Troubles1971 Aug 9 Internment, or imprisonment without trial, is introduced. The city experiences a week of intense fighting as massive gun battles break out across North and West Belfast. Dec 4 15 people, including two children, are killed in a UVF bomb attack on McGurk’s bar in North Belfast. It is the first major atrocity of the ’Troubles’.1972 Jan 30 Bloody Sunday. During a Civil Rights march through the streets of Derry 14 unarmed civilians are shot dead by British troops. Both internment and Bloody Sunday ensure increased support for the Irish Republican Army (IRA). Meanwhile, the British government introduces direct rule from London.1972 July 21 Bloody Friday. Nine people die when, without warning, 21 IRA bombs explode across Belfast in just over an hour. 1981 Bobby Sands and nine other IRA and Irish National Liberation Army (INLA) prisoners die after going on Hunger Strike at the Maze Prison in protest at the removal of political prisoner status. 1985 Nov 15 The British and Irish governments sign the Anglo Irish Agreement, giving the Republic of Ireland a greater say in NI affairs. 1988 March 6 Three IRA members are killed by the SAS in Gibraltar. During their funerals loyalist Michael Stone launches a gun and grenade attack killing three mourners.

At the funeral of one of Stone’s victims, two British Army corporals inadvertently drive into the cortege and are ambushed by an angry mob and shot dead by the IRA. Early 90s Violence continues on both sides as both the British and Irish governments attempt to break the political impasse.

The Peace Process1994 Aug 31 The IRA announces ’a complete cessation of military operations’. The Combined Loyalist Military Command follows on Oct 13. 1995 Security measures are relaxed and troop numbers reduced throughout Belfast and NI.1998 The Good Friday Agreement is voted in by 71% of the population. It marks a new power-sharing Assembly, early release of all paramilitary prisoners and looks toward withdrawal of British troops and decommissioning of paramilitary weapons. Aug 15 IRA dissidents plant a bomb in Omagh killing 29 people making it the single worst atrocity in the history of the Troubles. Nov 30 US President Clinton pays an historic visit to NI.2000 Feb 11 The Assembly is suspended following the breakdown of decommissioning talks. May 27 The UUP re-enters the power-sharing Assembly despite no IRA decommissioning. Devolved power is restored two days later.2000 Dec Belfast’s landmark Odyssey Millennium project opens, heralding major redevelopment of the historic Titanic Quarter. 2002 Oct 14 Devolution is suspended at midnight and direct rule returns to London. 2005 May 5 At the UK General Election the DUP and Sinn Fein strengthen their positions as NI’s two major political parties. July The IRA formally ends its armed campaign.2005 Nov 25 Belfast-born football legend George Best dies aged 59 after a long battle with alcoholism. The former Man Utd and NI player’s funeral is held at Stormont on Sat 3 Dec.2007 March 26 Following local elections, and in an historic face-to-face meeting, DUP leader Ian Paisley and Sinn Féin leader Gerry Adams announce the restoration of the NI Assembly on May 8. Paisley becomes First Minister and Sinn Féin’s Martin McGuinness Deputy First Minister.2008 May Having founded the party in 1971, Ian Paisley steps down as leader of the DUP and, therefore, First Minister. He is succeeded by Peter Robinson. 2010 May At the UK General Election, the DUP and Sinn Fein once again emerge as NI’s two main parties. In a shock result, however, First Minister Peter Robinson loses his 30-year Westminster seat to the Alliance Party’s Naomi Long. Ian Paisley becomes a Lord. 2012 March 31 The £77m Titanic Belfast visitor experience opens ahead of the 15 April centenary of the ship’s sinking.

Reconciliation, Stormont Estate


23titanic in belfast22 titanic in belfast


TITANICa: The Exhibition and The People’s Story L-3, Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, www.nmni.com/titanic. Opened on 31 May 2011, the 100th anniversary of Titanic’s Belfast launch, this exhibition connects the indoor Transport and outdoor Folk Museums with exhibitions and living history experiences telling the story of Titanic and its era. More than 500 original artefacts from the Museum’s col-lection are on display in the Transport Galleries. And a Titanic trail leads visitors to the Folk Museum to meet people who lived here before, during and after Titanic’s maiden voyage. This unique two-centre experience recreates the entwined life and times of the city and the ship in a truly authentic setting. For full details of the Museum’s prices and opening hours, see our main listing on p.46.

Titanic Murals and Yar dmen sculpture G-2, Lower Newtown-ards Rd, East Bel-fast, M4. Two mu-rals on East Belfast’s Lower Newtownards Road depict Thomas Andrews, Captain Smith, RMS Titanic and the Harland & Wolff cranes. The black & white painting at Dee Street is particularly impressive and worthy of a photo-op. The Yardmen bronze sculpture was created by Ross Wilson and depicts three shipyard workers walking towards Westbourne Church from the docks

D-1, dep. Donegall Quay beside the Big Fish sculptu-re, tel. tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 0844/(+44) (0)7718 910423, www.titanicboattours.com. Jump aboard the only tour in the world that traverses the same water where this mighty ship was built and first slid into the sea. Belfast locals are proud to proclaim, “She was alright when she left here!”® - and this Titanic boat tour offers an authentic perspective of the doomed liner from on-board the small passenger ferries Joyce Too and Mona.

The 75min tour passes the significant historical sites around Queen’s Island and the shipyards of Harland & Wolff where Titanic was designed, built and launched.

Tours Oct daily 12:30, 14:00 & 15:30, Nov Sat & Sun 12:30 & 14:00.

Tickets: £10/8, 2+2 £30, U4 free. Dept. Jetty 2 beyond Big Fish sculpture. Combined Boat Tour & Belfast Barge Maritime Museum ticket: This two-day ticket allows you to take a Titanic Boat Tour and spend as long as you like on the Barge (closes 16:00, see listing p.45). Ticket: £12/10, £40 (2+2).

Boats can also be booked for private parties throughout the year. Check website or call at the Maritime Empo-rium for all the latest tours, times and prices. And see p.15 for Hallowe’en Firework Boat Tours.

Titanic Boat Tours

No other city in the world but Belfast can lay claim to having lived beneath RMS Titanic’s magnificent shadow for so long. The emerging superstructure, on slipway No. 3, dominated East Belfast’s Harland & Wolff shipyard for just over two years, from the moment its keel was laid in March 1909 to its departure on 2 April 1912. Only the cold North Atlantic seabed has been its home for longer – from the early hours of 15 April 1912 when the mighty ship collided with an iceberg and came to its final resting place.The triumph and tragedy of the ill-fated liner has tran-scended into modern folklore, its very name instantly recognisable throughout the world. And now Bel fast has commemorated its connection with the opening of Titanic Belfast (p.23), the world’s largest Titanic-themed visitor attraction. Here’s our round-up of all Belfast’s tours and attractions taking you to the heart of the Titanic story.

Belfast City Hall memorials C-2, www.belfastcity.gov.uk/cityhall/monuments. Reflect on the tragedy at the Titanic Memorial Garden where a 1920 stone sculpture depicts female figure Thane looking down on two sea-nymphs li f ting a drowned sailor. Heading i ts list of 22 local men who perished is Titanic’s designer, Thomas Andrews. The Garden also features the world’s only memorial to name all those who died in the disaster. A statue of shipyard founder Sir Edward Harland and plinth dedicated to Lord Pirrie, shipyard chairman at the time of Titanic, are nearby. And inside a commemorative stained glass window depicts the ship J

Titanic’s Dock and Pump-House G-2, Queen’s Rd, behind Odyssey Complex, M26, tel. (+44) (0)28 9073 7813, www.titanicsdock.com. Once the ’beating heart’

of Harland & Wolff shipyard, this listed Edwardian building houses a 12m deep pump-well whose four engines could drain two dry docks of 23m gallons of water in just 100mins. Of the two, the adjacent Thompson Dry Dock is the larg-est - and the place where Titanic had its final fit-out. The Dock’s gargantuan proportions give an awesome indication of Titanic’s scale and the tour includes a 44ft descent to its base. One hour tours reveal the engineering excellence behind these colossal constructions. The Pump-House Café & Visitor Centre has free wifi, souvenirs and info panels and audio-visuals recalling Belfast’s industrial and maritime heyday. Find it one mile from the Odyssey. Parking free if spend £5 or more in cafe. QOpen daily Oct 10:00 - 18:00, Nov 10:30 - 16:30. Tours Oct hourly 11:00 - 16:00, Nov 11:00, 12:00, 14:00. Self-guided tours available 10:30 - 16:00. Adult £7, student £6, 5-16 £4, U5 free, Senior Citizen £6/6.50 (weekday/weekend), 2+2 £15. Reduced rates for self-guided tours. LKWY

Titanic Walking Tour D-1, dept. front Titanic Belfast, Queen’s Road. M26, tel. (+44) (0)7546 489875, www.titanicwalk.com. Follow in the footsteps of Titanic’s builders in this, the city’s only Titanic Walk-ing Tour. Tour guide Colin Cobb and his team’s extensive knowledge leaves no fact unearthed - even down to the number of apples on board the doomed liner (36,000, if you’re asking). The 90min tour takes in several significant shipyard locations - including the Drawing Offices, Titanic Belfast, Titanic’s Dock & Pump-House and access to the bottom of i ts 44ft deep Dry Dock where the ship was fi t ted out. The enter taining and detailed insight is suitable for all ages - whether a self-professed Ti-tanorak or not. Q Daily Tours Oct 11:00, 13:00 & 15:00, Nov 11:00 & 14:00. Adult £10, 10-16 £7, U10 £5, U5 free, 2+2 £28 (incl. Pump-House Tour). Y

Titanic BelfastG-2, Queen’s Rd, Titanic Quarter, tel. (+44) (0)28 9076 6386, www.titanicbelfast.com. This £77m colossus encases the dreams and disaster that is the story of Titanic. Each pinnacle of N Ireland’s largest visi-tor attraction is the exact height of Titanic. And at the entrance, a giant TITANIC steel sign sits alongside a life-size Titanica female figure.Inside, the ground floor, with cafe, restaurant, shop and ticketing desks, features a full-height atrium. Dramatic use of metals and wood meld the past with the present to create an authentic shipyard atmosphere in a 21st Century setting. Nine galleries across three floors take you from the 1910 shipyard to the present day. The story starts with Boomtown Belfast where giant screens show street scenes from the era and a large interactive floor shows the ship’s plans. Next the Arrol Gantry and gentle six minute Shipyard Ride use sights, sounds and smells to provide a sensory exploration of life as a shipbuilder during Titanic’s time. The Launch shows the moment when the mighty ship slid into Belfast Lough. A large translucent panel showing Titanic ahead of launch clears to reveal her actual slipway.‘Board’ the ship at The Fit-out and marvel at replica cabins from all three classes. Then yet more large screen technology takes you on a virtual tour - from boiler room to bridge.Meet passengers and view priceless photos from Irish priest Father Brown at The Maiden Voyage before you are confronted with stark reality of The Sinking. A starry night descends as the ship hits the iceberg and relays desperate messages for help. An animation of Titanic’s final moments is poignantly projected onto a large wall

of lifebelts.The Aftermath, with exact-scale li feboat, recalls the Bri tish and American inqui-ries in the trag-edy’s wake. Over 1500 souls had perished - and the fate of every s in g l e p erson who sai led on Titanic - including the survivors - is recorded in fully-searchable touch screens.Myths and Legends explores the ship’s enduring global appeal through books, films, music and television. Titanic Beneath’s 88-seat viewing theatre features images taken by Robert Ballard who discovered Titanic in 1985. Finally, in the Ocean Exploration Centre marine biologists reveal life beneath our local shores. The tour is self-guided with staff in each gallery answering your questions. The top two floors house four conference and events suites - one with an exact replica of the famous staircase (not generally part of tour). And two subterranean levels provide paid parking for 500 cars.The arrival of Titanic Belfast makes a visit to the city a ’must-do’ li fetime experience. Allow at least half a day to see this super-sized attraction. QOct-March: Daily 10:00 - 17:00. Adult £13.50, 5-16 £6.75, U5 Free, Student/Unemployed £9.50, Senior Citizen (Mon-Fri) £9.75, (Sat+Sun) £11.50, 2+2 £34. Group rates also available. HLK


25Where to stay


24 titanic in belfast

D-1, Obel, 66 Donegall Quay, tel. tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 0844, www.titanicboattours.com. Nautical artefacts, vintage posters and ship models share space in this snug shop with seafaring prints, furniture, and cushions made from old ships flags. T-shirts proclaiming the oft-used tagline, ’She was alright when she left here’ ®, and copies of Titanic’s original plans as referenced by James Cameron for his epic flick, keep Titanoracs happy. Run by the team behind the Titanic Boat Tours, you can also buy tickets for this trip and the Water Taxi. Find it at the base of Obel, Belfast’s tallest building. Q Daily 11:00 - 16:00.

Maritime Emporium

Though April’s centenary has departed, the city continues to embrace all things Titanic. Begin your journey at the Titanic Pub & Kitchen (p.38. Then stock up on all man-ner of ship-shape souvenirs and Titanic Memorabilia at The Irish Linen and Gift Centre (p.59), Carrolls (p.59), Maritime Emporium (below) and, of course, Titanic Belfast (p.23). The New Titanic Restaurant (p.36) has a selection of Titanic souvenirs for sale including pewter fob watches made by the same company that supplied items to the film Titanic. And more gifts are available at Titanic’s Pump-House (p.22) and the Belfast Welcome Centre (p.6) including posters, prints, books and T-shirts.The Linen Hall Library, PRONI, Belfast Barge, PLACE, Crane View Kitchens and Dock Cafe are also offering yet more maritime distraction. Flick through the magazine’s Where to eat (p.29) and What to see (p.42) sections to find out more.

Titanic Souvenirs & Treats

Bag some boat booty at The Irish Linen and Gift Centre

International names, boutique one-offs and gloriously homely guest houses and B&Bs are plumping their collective pillows ready for your weary wee head. Prices quoted are based on hotel rack rates, but go online for much better, often last minute, deals. Our categories are based on the star ratings as dished out by our wonderful friends at the Northern Ireland Tourist Board - www.discovernortherireland.com.

Cream of the CropCulloden Hotel L-3, Bangor Rd, Holywood, Co. Down, tel. (+44) (0)28 9042 1066, [email protected], www.hastingshotels.com. Set amid 12 acres of beautifully landscaped and sculpture-dotted gardens, this former 19th Century bishop’s palace offers sweet escape from the downtown melee. Views of Belfast Lough add a tranquil air, yet the city centre is a mere six miles away. The sumptuous interior boasts fine antiques, striking stained glass windows, Louis XV chandeliers and the elegant Mitre Restaurant. Rooms are equally opulent and range from the traditional luxury of the original building to the stylish and sophisticated new executives - and all have iPod docks, plasma TVs and toy ducks in tux (for bathtime and take home fun). The more informal Cultra Inn bar/restaurant is in front of the hotel’s helipad - handy for all those visiting VIPs from U2 to Tony Blair. Sumptuous suites and an ESPA Spa confirm Culloden’s five star status. Q105 rooms. (single £190-215, double £240-260, suites £390 -990). Full Irish Breakfast £20. HFLKDCW hhhhh

Europa Hotel B-2, Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 1066, [email protected], www.hast-ingshotels.com. Heads of State, movie icons, rock gods and sports stars have all bedded down at the Europa, one of the city’s most enduring landmarks. Its location, standing tall between the Grand Opera House and Gt. Victoria St. Bus and Rail Station, makes it a great base from which to explore the city and beyond. Grab a window seat at The Piano Bar Restaurant for excellent people-watching opportunities or drop in on the more informal ground floor restaurant The Causerie. Delegates can network to their hearts content at the Exhibition Centre, then retire to an executive bedroom replete with CDs, plasma TVs and Ralph Lauren bedding. And every room has a little rubber duck to call your own. Q272 rooms. (single £140 - £190, double £210 - £230, suites £310 - £430). Breakfast £12 - £16. JHEKWY hhhh

Fitzwilliam B-2, Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9044 2080, [email protected], www.fitzwil-liamhotelbelfast.com. From the double-height glass-fronted foyer to the immaculately presented rooms, this luxury city centre hotel exudes uncompromising elegance at every turn. Acid yellow, burnt orange and lime green set the tone in the guestrooms, and dark wood is cleverly incorporated to balance out the vibrant shades. Each room offers retro ’dial’ phones, MP3 connections, flatscreen TVs, sunflower show-ers and great city views. Splurge on the Penthouse Suite and you’ll also get your very own limo service and 24/7 butler. Around 90% of all materials used is of Irish origin, and the theme continues in the restaurant where all food is locally sourced to keep those airmiles down. Right beside the Grand Opera House, this downtown abode really is a cool, classy city stand-out. Q130 rooms. (standard executive £180, superior £210, deluxe £240, studio suite £270, penthouse £1500). JHFLKWY hhhhh

Hilton Belfast D-2, 4 Lanyon Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 7000, [email protected], www.hilton.co.uk/belfast. This centrally-located 12-storey hotel is a relatively recent red-brick addition to the city skyline.

Outside it’s imposing but inside the atmosphere is much more refined. Natural light floods through the glass-fronted foyer, and many of the immaculately presented bedrooms offer fabulous views along the River Lagan. The top three floors have executive bedrooms (Molton Brown goodies for the ladies, Irish whiskey for the men) and a classy airport-style business lounge. The Sonoma restaurant serves Irish fusion food and Cables Bar is ideal for a pre-Waterfront tipple or post-shopping espresso. Q198 rooms. (single/double from £69, executive from £109, junior suite from £139, executive suite from £209). JHFLKWY hhhhh

Malmaison C-1, 34 Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9022 0200, [email protected], www.malmaison-belfast.com. One of the UK’s most stylish hotel chains has landed in Belfast... and not before time. This former seed warehouse with whimsical flora and fauna friezes gives way to an interior draped in gothic opulence. Crushed velvet boudoirs, black leather sofas and roll-top baths adorn the Samson and Goliath suites:named after Belfast’s landmark cranes. The urban theme extends to the restaurant with fabulous canvases featuring the city’s political wall murals. A wonderland of flickering tealights, extensive cocktail menu and flat screens showing classic films bring diners back to the hotel’s goth-chic ambience. Q64 rooms. (room £160, superior £180, Goliath suite £315, Samson suite £400). HKW hhhh

Merchant Hotel C-1, 16 Skipper St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 4888, [email protected], www.the-merchanthotel.com. As you walk through this stunningly renovated Victorian bank building, the wow factor never lets up - from the lavish chandelier in The Great Room restaurant to the magnificent Art Deco extension with spa, gym and rooftop hot tub. Exquisitely groomed, antique-festooned suites are named after well-known local writers and artists, with the laters’ work forming part of the decor. And all rooms have the latest mod-cons including downloadable bedtime stories read by local actor James Nesbitt... who could possibly resist? Award-winning cocktails in The Bar and live music at Bert’s Jazz Bar, along with The Cloth Ear trad pub and Ollies nightclub, attract hotel guests and Belfast’s nightowls ever in search of the latest’in’ place. This is without doubt the city’s most fabulous overnight option. Q64 rooms. (rooms from £160, suites £370-450). JHFLKDWhhhhh

Radisson Blu D-3, 3 Cromac Pl, Ormeau Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 4065, [email protected], www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belfast. Set in the revamped Gasworks complex, this big-name hotel reveals a minimalist mantra reflecting its stylish Scandinavian origins. Glass pan-orama lifts spirit guests to their choice of two rooms: warm, contemporary Urban, with its dark woods and burnt ochres, and cool chic Nordic featuring ice tones and natty pin-stripe chairs. If money’s no object, check into Suite 7 - NI’s largest one-bedroom suite - and check out spectacular views along the River Lagan. Contemporary Italian cuisine served in Filini restaurant. Q120 rooms. (single £125 - £160, double £135 - £180, suites from £260). HLKW hhhh

Ten Square C-2, 10 Donegall Sq South, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 1001, [email protected], www.tensquare.co.uk. A favourite of the city’s visiting celebs, and recently voted one of the world’s sexiest hotels, this super-chic boutique hotel stands out for many reasons. The renovated linen house’s cream exterior blends in beautifully with its envious position overlooking the back of City Hall. Look up and you’ll see Michelangelo, Washington, Newton and Shakespeare staring out from their plasterwork portholes. Inside, the Asian-themed bedrooms are individually designed


26 Where to stay 27Where to stay


with one - the Bradley Suite - a veritable private art gallery featuring paintings by Terry Bradley, one of Ireland’s most acclaimed artists. The hotel’s self-styled ’Oriental opulence’ spills over into The Grill Room & Bar, an exquisite restaurant with carnivore-friendly menu and colonial-themed watering hole attracting the city’s aspirational sophisticates. For business and private events with a glossy sheen, try the multi-functional Porcelain Events Suite. Room rates include full Irish breakfast. Q23 rooms. (standard £150, superior £170, deluxe £220, Linenhall suite £265). Rates include a full-Irish/continental breakfast. HBKW hhhh

UpmarketHoliday Inn C-3, 22 Ormeau Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 8511, [email protected], www.icho-telsgroup.com. Situated opposite the BBC and a favourite with suits and creative types, this city centre hotel offers top class business and leisure facilities. The bright, contempo-rary rooms come with Playstations and ’pillow menus’ with a choice of five plumps. The ’good night’s sleep’ theme continues with wooden shutters, complimentary cocoa and a selection of dream-inducing meals at The Junction Restaurant and Bar. Q170 rooms. (single £65, double £75, weekend special £89). JHFKDCW hhhh

Malone Lodge Hotel A-5, 60 Eglantine Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9038 8000, [email protected], www.malonelodge.com. In a short space of time this locally-owned, Queen’s Quarter hotel has become one of the best four stars in city. The spacious bedrooms are elegantly decorated in calming cream and stylish charcoal tones, and their large bay windows positively encourage the sun to shine. Macklins Bar serves snacks and more substantial meals from its grill menu while The Green Door Restaurant offers a great value Sunday Carvery. Q50 rooms (singles £95, doubles £105 - £120, triples £120 - £140. Apartments also available.). HFLK�DWhhhh

Mid-rangeCrescent Townhouse B-4, 13 Lower Crescent, off Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 3349, www.crescenttownhouse.com. This charming boutique hotel’s elegant 19th century exterior promises something different in the Queen’s Quarter. The deluxe rooms are suitably styl-ish with Belfast-style sinks lending a classy antique air, while the suites crank the luxury up a notch with Victorian roll top baths and canopy beds. The Metro Brasserie is one of the best hotel restaurants in the area and Bar/Twelve’s comfy leather sofas, good lunch menu and live music nights go down a treat with well-heeled professionals and media luvvies. Q17 rooms (17 Total rooms ). (single £75, double £85, suite £100). REKW hhh

Days Hotel B-3, 40 Hope St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 2494, [email protected], www.dayshotelbelfast.co.uk/. This huge, eight storey monolith is the biggest hotel in town and a great base for city centre shopping and nights on the tiles. The short stroll to Great Victoria St. Bus and Rail Station makes daytrips and Interna-tional airport connections a doddle. Many of the great value bedrooms have superb views across the city and feature spacious power showers and video games for hire. If you can tear yourself away from that little lot, grab a pre-nightlife drink in the bar with ’prices cheaper than nightclubs!!’. Car parking is £5 per overnight stay. Q250 rooms. (rooms from £59 per night). Breakfast £7.95 per person. Free WIFI in lounge, bar & restaurants. JHLKW hhh

Holiday Inn Express C-4, 106a University St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 1909, [email protected], www.hiexpressbelfast.com. This may be Holiday Inn with-out the frills but, with free breakfast and car parking thrown in for good measure, the price is hard to beat. Some rooms have fine views of Cavehill, and Chambers restaurant aims to lure diners to this convenient Queen’s Quarter location. Q114 rooms. (rooms from £69 per night). Breakfast included. Free WIFI in lounge, bar & restaurants. HLKW hhh

Jurys Inn B-2, Fisherwick Place, Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9053 3500, www.jurysinns.com. Yet another fantastically located hotel: literally a minute’s walk from the Grand Opera House and on the doorstep of some of the city’s best shopping and nightlife. The big, bright foyer, with free wifi and cosy sofas, affords great views of historic Church House. Revamped rooms are swathed in subtle, sophisticated dark woods and neutral tones, and come with plasma screens, proper-sized hairdryers and plenty of sprawling space. And the corner rooms have particularly pretty vistas across the lawns of Inst. Grammar School. Six meeting rooms are ideal for business pow-wows before digesting your deals or daytrips over a pint in the contemporary Inntro Bar or dinner at the In-nfusion restaurant. Q190 rooms. (Rooms from £59. All rooms max 2 adults + 2 children, or 3 adults). JHKWY hhh

Park Inn C-3, 4 Clarence St. West, tel. (+44) (0)28 9067 7700/(+44) (0)28 9067 7701, [email protected], www.belfast.parkinn.co.uk. The city’s central and affordable three star hotel has rooms reflecting the interna-tional chain’s design concept - block primary colours, functional and modern rooms, and all the features you’d expect including tea and coffee, wifi, laptop-sized safe and satellite TV. Standard rooms come with super-sleek shower rooms and branded toiletries. Upgrade to Business Friendly and wallow in the bath, recline in the seating area or direct your gaze at the double aspect vista. The adjoining RBG restaurant and bar is the perfect spot for a spot of lunch, dinner or drinks (see separate listings for more details). And the fitness centre with sauna and steam room, and seven conference suites, keep this hotel punching above its weight. When you’re checking in, check out the wall of Belfast photos in the double height foyer. Loving their work... Q145 rooms. (Advanced booking from £59.25). JHFKDWY hhh

Premier Inn, Titanic Quarter G-2, 2a Queens Rd, tel. 0871 527 9210/(+44) (0)1582 567890 - from outside UK, [email protected], www.premierinn.com. Sitting pretty for the major rejuvenation of the Titanic Quarter, this great value, new-build chain hotel has all the Premier Inn staples including (chargeable) parking and wifi and those snazzy purple and white en suite bedrooms. If you’re here to see a show at the Odyssey Arena, this is the hotel for you - it’s right next door. The city centre is a gentle 10min stroll across the Lagan Weir, and George Best Belfast City Airport is but a mere mile away. Q (Rooms from £60). LKW hhh

Narnia’s walk-in wardrobe. CS Lewis Statue, East Belfast.

Premier Inn, Waring Street C-1, 2-6 Waring St, tel. 0871 527 8070, www.premierinn.com. Another great value hotel rises up in the city centre’s historic heart - right next to Cathedral Quarter’s bars and restaurants and a very short stroll from all the main shops, tours and attractions. Abundant with all Premier Inn’s expected features, including that Good Night Guarantee or your money back, this latest arrival also offers meeting rooms, chargeable wifi access and the contemporary-style Four Corners Bar & restaurant. The sympathetically restored brickwork facade of this listed building lends the hotel a touch of elegance and continues the area’s stylish renaissance. Q171 rooms (Rooms from £59). Breakfast £7.50, Continental £5.25. JLKW hhh

Ramada Encore C-1, 20 Talbot St, tel. 0844 801 0331, [email protected], www.encorebelfast.co.uk. An elegant piazza is emerging at the back of St. Anne’s Cathedral, and this hotel is sitting pretty at one corner. Inside, light reflects around the reception’s dominant white space, with subtle colours and specially-commissioned local artwork adding a cool, design hue. The stylish SQ Bar and Grill, and Hub Bar and Lounge, take centre stage on the ground floor, along with three meeting rooms (each named after an Irish writer). Bedrooms have clean wooden floors, wet-room style bathrooms, plasma TVs and, apart from four executive rooms, are all the same size. Ask for a room on one of the upper floors for good views across the city. Wifi is free in public areas and charged in-room. Call for parking arrangements. Q169 rooms. (Rooms from £69.95). Breakfast not included. JHLKWY hhh

Travelodge B-2, 15 Brunswick St, tel. 0871 984 8484, [email protected], www.travelodge-belfast.co.uk. If you’re after a great value, no frills room with an excellent city centre location then this could be it. Revamped bedrooms feature flat screen TVs and streamlined furniture to

make the most of the space. The first floor conservatory-style Bar Café serves up a buffet-style breakfast and, come the night, transforms into an informal drinks area. But with the best bars on your doorstep, no need to stay in... Q90 rooms. (Rooms from £49). Breakfast £5.95-7.95. JW hhh

Guesthouses and B&BsMaranatha G-3, 254 Ravenhill Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9046 0200, [email protected], www.maranatha-guesthouse.com. This restored 18th Century South Belfast townhouse overlooks Ormeau Park - home to one of Ireland’s oldest golf clubs where the public can play its nine-hole course. If city life is more your thing, hop on the bus for the 10min ride into town. Bedrooms are ensuite and family and children’s rate are available on request. Q10 rooms. (Single £45, Double or twin £35pps, Family £30). LW

Rayanne House L-3, 60 Demesne Rd, Holywood, Co Down, Somerton House F-1, 22 Lansdowne Rd, tel. 0044 (0)28 9037 0717, [email protected], www.somertonhouse.co.uk. Beautifully decorated in period colours and dotted with antiques and curios, this grand old Edwardian townhouse is a real Belfast gem. Close to Cavehill, Belfast Castle and Belfast Zoo, and a 10-minute bus ride into the city centre, Somerton is ideal for couples who crave a bit of homely peace and quiet, with flatscreen TVs/DVDs, tea and coffee in all rooms, free computer use in guest lounge and house wifi. It’s the right side of town for the Liverpool and Stena ferry terminals, not to mention the M2 motorway should you fancy a daytrip to the Giant’s Causeway. Q9 rooms. (single £35 - 45, double £58, twin £48 - 58, family £70). W

HostelsBelfast International Youth Hostel B-4, 22 Donegall Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 5435, [email protected], www.hini.org.uk. This huge hostel is the biggest in Belfast and the only one affiliated with Hostelling International. It’s a short walk from all a tourist heart desires, from Queen’s Quarter pubs and attractions to city centre shops and restaurants. A recent renovation has heralded a slew of top class amenities including en-suite rooms, left luggage, currency exchange and laundry fa-cilities. The Causeway Cafe serves up good value grub and keep you connected with all your lovely new travel chums. Minicoach tours are based at the Hostel for trips to the Giant’s Causeway and north coast. And if you’re exploring beyond Belfast, check out sister hostels at Armagh, Enniskillen, Newcastle, Bushmills and Whitepark Bay. Q54 rooms. (Prices pppn - child, family and group rates available. HI members £1 discount. singles from £21, doubles & triples from £14.50, quads from £11.50, 6 bed dorms from £10, large ensuite dorms from £11). JHRLKW

International airportPark Plaza Hotel K/L-3, Belfast International Airport, tel. (+44) (0)28 9445 7000, www.parkplaza.com/belfastuk. Popular with tourists and business types catching an early flight, this modern hotel is a 50m walk from the airport entrance and offers helicopter transfers and in-room flight information for execs on the move. Its internal balconies overlook the bright, spacious foyer and provide a panoramic view across the airport. The contemporary-style rooms feature black and white photos of Northern Ireland and the conference rooms are named after Irish and Scottish islands. Circles restaurant is perfect for pre-flight networking or a bite of fusion cuisine before the airline food beckons. Q106 rooms. (Room only from £79. Superior Doubles from £79. Executive Double from £99). HLKW hhhh

Fancy overnighting in an Irish gate lodge, castle or lighthouse? These and many more unique and history-steeped properties are among the Irish Landmark Trust's distinct portfolio of six-teen holiday lets.Now in its 20th year, the Trust takes abandoned and crumbling

buildings from across the island of Ireland - many of national significance - and returns them to their former glory for everyone to enjoy. These meticulously renovated properties range from Drum Gatelodge on Northern Ireland's stunning north Antrim Coast to Galley Head Lightkeeper's House overlooking Co. Cork's brooding coastline. Merrion Mews provides quirky Dublin city centre accom-modation right at the heart of this gentrified Dublin green. And a stay in the Blackhead Lightkeepers’ Houses (pic) spirits you to another era with their delightful interiors and jaw-dropping views. All properties sleep from two to ten people, so you can opt for a romantic weekend bolthole to a fun-filled get together with family and friends. And by staying, not only are you hav-ing a fantastic and memorable holiday in a magical setting, but you're also helping preserve more incredible buildings for future visitors to enjoy. Find out more about the work of the Irish Landmark Trust - including buildings currently under renovation - and book your dream property by visiting www.irishlandmark.com or tel. (+353) (0)1 670 4733.

Irish Landmark Trust


29RestauRants28 Where to stay


Rathmullan House, Co. DonegalRathmullan, Co. D o n e g a l , t e l . ( + 3 5 3 ) ( 0 ) 7 4 915 8188, www.rathmullanhouse.com. Crisp autumn leaves and a fresh lough shore breeze welcome guests to this most invit-ing of Irish country houses. Built in 1820, this year marks the County Donegal residence’s half century as a hotel. And as soon as you ar-rive, Rathmullan House’s beautifully landscaped lawns and elegant cream façade envelop you in an aura of luxurious familiarity. And by that we mean head-turning antiques and paintings blend seamlessly with the informal atmosphere.

Maybe it’s something in the Fanad Peninsula air. Or perhaps the Lough Swilly beach at the foot of its grounds underpins the happy holiday vibe. Stepping back inside, sofa-filled lounges lined with well-stocked book shelves positively beckon you to sit back and peruse their bounty. While the turf fires and those sweeping garden vistas demand

gentle contemplation as you look forward to dinner and plan the day ahead.

Ah, the dinner… named after the garden’s arboreal star, The Weeping Elm Restaurant is swathed in a light-strewn tented ceiling that evokes a romantic night sky. The estate’s Victorian Walled Garden delivers the finest fruit, herbs and vegetables to your table. While the main menu brims with local produce, from Rathmullan Lamb and Greencastle landed monkfish to Glenvar honey pannacotta and a fine selection of Irish cheeses. This refined retreat has earned a deserved reputation as one of Ireland’s most popular dining destinations.

And so to bed… each of the 34 rooms is individually decorated with yet more antiques and period features enhancing the house’s 19th century origins. Families are as welcome as couples, with interconnecting rooms available for extra space. A 15m indoor heated swimming

pool and two all-weather tennis courts keep everyone energised. And there’s even a dog friendly bedroom so Fido can join in the fun.

If you can tear yourself away from your abode, Rathmullan village and its surroundings are imminently explorable by foot and car. The area was the setting for the 1607 Flight of the Earls, when the country’s noble elite fled to France in search of support to overthrow the English. They failed in their mission and never returned. This pivotal chapter in Ireland’s history inspired Rathmullan’s Flight of the Earls Heritage Centre.

Further inland, Glenveagh National Park is a perfect daytrip to see natural woodland, landscaped gardens and the stunning lakeshore setting of 19th century Glen-veagh Castle. Dramatic coastal roads and picture postcard beaches shore up north Donegal’s breathtaking scenery. Take a drive and lose yourself in this dramatic wonderland.

Opened in 2009, Harry Blaney Bridge connects the Fanad and Rosguill Peninsulas, extending your Atlantic Drive to windswept Horn Head and onwards to the surf chic town of Dunfanaghy. And getting to Rathmullan from Belfast is a seamless 110 mile drive... simply head to Derry, then northwards via Letterkenny. In the summer season a car ferry also makes regular daily crossings between Buncrana and Rathmullan.

Whether you choose to make Rathmullan House your start-ing point for exploring Donegal or remain within its restful environs, this charming base makes an ideal autumnal overnight. Q34 rooms. Super Saturday and Fantastic Friday Special Offers. One Night B&B + one House Dinner €110pps standard room. Upgrade to superior room with garden views for €15pp. Valid Fri & Sat 5 & 12 Oct, 9 & 17 Nov and 8 & 15 Dec. Midweek and other offers available online. Get 25% discount if you pay in sterling CASH (not applicable to sterling credit card). LKCW hhhh

AmericanTGI Friday’s C-2, Level 2, Victoria Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 9050, www.tgifridays.com. Candy-striped décor garnished with an eye-catching collection of pop culture and sporting memorabilia greets diners at this super-sized Victoria Square restaurant. Sizzling steaks, bounteous burg-ers, flabbergasting fajitas and sensational salads all grace its mammoth menu... and those US-sized portions are large enough to satisfy even the biggest appetite. Speaking of which - the cornucopia of cocktails with 500 (yes, 500!) intoxicating concoctions should really get the party started. Fabulous for a family treat and perfect for a pals night on the town. Find it on a prominent corner position on Level 2. Q12:00 - late. ££. J

Asian & JapaneseGinger Tree B-3, 23 Donegall Pass, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 7151. With almost two decades of wisdom, tradition and fabulous cooking to its name, the Ginger Tree has long been the restaurant of choice for local foodies. In fact, so renowned is the Japanese nosh that Sir Paul McCartney and one-time rock gods Razorlight have feasted on its delicious dishes (though not at the same time). For the rest of us ordinary folk, the restaurant offers minimalist monochrome decor and Japanese artefacts that gel well with the authen-tic cuisine. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 21:30. Sun 17:00 - 21:30. £££.

Hakka Noodles C-3, 51 Adelaide St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 3270, www.hakkabelfast.co.uk. An elegant red and black interior reflects the meticulous Japanese menu at this classy noodle bar. Run by Eddie Fung, the man behind Zen, the same attention-to-detail dishes, drinks and service make this yet another of his stand-out restaurants. The informal air and extremely good value-for-money food almost belie the mastery behind its authentically crafted cuisine. Melt-in-the-mouth dim sum, refreshing green teas and fresh sushi to go are among the mouth-watering morsels ready for your maw. Q Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - late, Sat 16:00 - late, Sun 13:30 - 22:30. ££-£££. JW

Sakura C-4, 82 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 9590, www.sakurabelfast.com. Sit by the sushi train and pick your meals as they trundle past, or order from their extensive menu at this little bit of Tokyo on Botanic Avenue. Japanese cuisine has taken off big-time in Belfast and this is a great spot to join fellow saki and sushi fans. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:30. £££. S

Wagamama C-2, Level 1, Victoria Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 6098, www.wagamama.ie. The global noodle phenomenon has arrived in Belfast, and not before time. Cosy up in communal benches with fellow udon, soba and ramen fans and enjoy your freshly prepared fare - so fresh, in fact, that you and your friends’ dishes may arrive at different

£ - Literally as cheap as chips. If you’re after a coffee, a sandwich or quick snack, you’re quids in here ££ - Plush cafés, agreeable bistros and delicious takeaways that won’t break the bank£££ - Upmarket lunches and good value evening meals in relaxed surroundings££££ - Fine dining served with a touch of class (all prices approx. per person for main meal)

Price GuideMost of NI’s tradi-tional dishes have their roots in pota-toes and bread. This simple peasant fare has endured amid a profusion of fusion cuisine and contem-porary twists. C heck out these hear ty classics, and more,

and give your mouth a bit of a treat.

Potato bread: It’s the humble spud elevated to gast-ronomic heights. This thin square of loveliness is at the heart of every Ulster Fry and a must-buy foodie souvenir.

Wheaten bread: A healthy brown bread made with whole-wheat flour and delicious toasted with melted cheese or buttered and served with a big bowl of steaming broth or fine slivers of smoked salmon and a lemon wedge.

Soda bread: First baked in 19th Century Ireland when local peasants added baking soda to help the dough rise. The result is a thick, stodgy bread best served fried or toasted with a big dollop of butter.

Ulster Fry: Often dubbed a ’heart attack on a plate’, the humble Ulster Fry has entered the pantheons of classic local cuisine. Take the common fry - sausage, bacon, egg, mushrooms, tomato - and add a hefty heap of potato bread (pic) and soda bread. It’s as simple as that.

Pastie Supper: Not to be confused with the pastry-wrapped Cornish variety, this local version is a patty-shaped concoction of mashed pork, potato and herbs in a deep-fried crispy coating. The pastie has been immor-talised by Van Morrison in his song A Sense of Wonder. Note: Anything with the word ’supper’ attached means it comes with a portion of chips.

Champ: A delicious comfort food dish of potatoes mashed with lots of butter, warm milk and chopped spring onions or, as we call them, scallions.

Irish Stew: Traditionally made with lamb or mutton, this hearty peasant dish is best served in a traditional pub ac-companied with a pint of Guinness. The dish gets an early mention in Lord Byron’s tiresome tome The Devil’s Drive.

Dulse: Salty dried seaweed usually sold in small paper bags at markets, most famously the Oul Lammas Fair held each August in Ballycastle, Co. Antrim.

Tayto crisps: Ask any local to name their favourite crisps (or chips) and you’ll probably hear ‘Tayto Cheese and Onion, mate’. Made since the 1950s at Tayto Castle, Tandragee, these distinctive yellow packets with Mr Tayto logo have become an unlikely Northern Ireland icon. Tours of Tayto Castle are available; see www.tayto.com.

Armagh Apples: Eve’s scrumptious orb is grown in the aptly-named Orchard County and available as a cider, soft drink or - heaven forfend - humble fruit. May’s Armagh Apple Blossom Festival cultivates the crop with lots of tasty and revealing events and eats

Local Food


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times. Informal, family friendly (as with most Victoria Square restaurants, it has to be said) and super fast nosh. QOpen Mon-Wed 12:00 - 21:00, Thu-Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:30 - 21:00. ££. J

Zen C-3, 55 Adelaide St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 2244, www.zenbelfast.co.uk. So this is what £1m looks like in a restaurant. Likened to a James Bond set, Japanese restau-rant Zen is a phenomenal addition to the city’s cuisine scene. Inside there’s a cocktail bar, a wall of glistening water and gilded lilies, an ultra violet stairway and sunken ’ta-tammi’ din-ing area. Groups are catered for in a series of wood-wrapped circular tables and encouraged to avail of the slippers. The spectacular glass-floored corridor of beaded light columns and mirrored ceiling is a nightmare to navigate when you’ve sipped too much sake. But who cares when you’re in one of the most stylish restaurants in town. Special dining events including Cocktail and Meal Tasting and Asian Musical Evenings add to its fun and funky vibe. All this and the food’s fantastic too!. Q Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - late, Sat 17:00 - late. Sun 13:30 - 22:30. ££££. J

ChineseChina Buffet King C-2, Victoria Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 8100. Belfast’s biggest, and Victoria Square’s only, buffet-style Chinese restaurant certainly serves up quite the feast. Choose your table, join the queue and fill your plate from a heady selection of Asian (and some Western) dishes. Favourites such as spring rolls, sweet and sour chicken and singapore noodles sit alongside ever-changing exotic eats like king prawn in chilli garlic, lime and pepper roast pork and mixed veg in oyster sauce. Soups for starters and scrummy desserts with soft ice-cream top and tail the all-you-can-eat

experience. And there’s even a salad bar and good veggie selection for all you herbivores. Leave an extra notch on the belt... and try and time your visit to avoid the lunchtime rush. Q Lunch 12:00 - 17:00, Grand Buffet Dinner 17:30 - late. Sun 12:00 - late. (Children must be under 140cm/4ft 5in). ££. J

House of Zen C-1, 3 St. Anne’s Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 8688, www.houseofzen.co.uk. Seductive and so-phisticated, this new Cathedral Quarter restaurant serves the finest Chinese cuisine. Exotic dishes from across the country are meticulously prepared and exquisitely presented, from delicious dim sum to sliced fillet steak served on a sizzling plate. The dark wood and jewel coloured lighting combine to create an opulent Oriental atmosphere. Freshly prepared cocktails, alcove-style seating and that pristine piazza loca-tion keep the mood convivial and the locals coming back for more. Praise indeed. Q Mon-Fri: 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - late, Sat: 17:00 - late, Sun: 13:30 - 22:30. ££££. J

Lee Garden B-4, 14-18 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 8882, www.leegardenbelfast.com. If you like your Dim Sum or Stir Fried Seafood served in spacious, chic surroundings then this fixture on the local Chinese scene will definitely impress. Light pours into the open plan atrium from the restaurant’s two storey glass ediface, and delicately spiralling lights cascade from its high ceiling. Wooden floors and brightly coloured leather seating exude 21st Century class, and the private function room with karaoke ensures wayward warblers don’t disturb the rest of the diners. Already a big hit with the locals and Chinese community... what more endorsement do you need? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. £££.

IndianGingeroot B-3, 75 Gt Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 3124, www.gingeroot.com. Dine on delectable Northern Indian tandoori-cooked cuisine as you sing along to plasma screens showing Bollywood music. This large, modern restau-rant does a particularly good trade in business lunches (free wifi for diners helps seal the deal) and has plenty of sectioned off space for private parties. Its food and spices are all freshly prepared and the family-owned establishment takes personal pride in its menu and service. Cobra, Kingfisher and Lal Toofan fans can enjoy NI’s only selection of Indian beers on draft. And all those vegetarians among you will love the extensive selection of meat-free dishes. Its location, a few minutes’ walk from the Grand Opera House, ensures a steady stream of well-known faces eager to chow down on nothing but the best Indian food.Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat until 23:30, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. £££. JW

InternationalBeatrice Kennedy B-4, 44 University Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9020 2290, www.beatricekennedy.co.uk. Amid the brash glitz of the city’s more familiar restaurants sits this intimate brasserie filled with dusky candlelight, muted tones and a devoted clientele. Popular with the pre-theatre crowd and romantic couples, its relaxed, homely vibe will never go out of fashion. Game and fish dishes are the chef’s speciality - try the pan-fried Donegal salmon with mussels and fennel. Q Tues-Sat 17:00 - 22:30. Sun 12:30 - 14:30, 17:00 - 20:00. Mon closed. £££.

Cayenne B-3, 7 Ascot House, Shaftesbury Sq, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 1532, www.cayenne-restaurant.co.uk. The city’s original Michelin-starred restuarant is owned and run by whippet-thin TV chef Paul Rankin. Its Asian-influenced menu is always innovative and rarely disappoints. The dark wood interior is lit in amber and the pale walls are etched with

culinary prose. Although the haunt of Belfast’s self-styled gastro luvvies, don’t let its potential air of intimidation put you off... the award-winning food is surprisingly affordable. Q Thurs, Fri 12:00 - 14:15, Mon-Sat 18:00 - late, Sun 17:00 - late. ££££. J

Coco C-2, 7-11 Linenhall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 1150, www.cocobelfast.com. The former Roscoffs res-taurant has been transformed into this elegant, yet unstuffy eaterie attracting the city’s stylish set and tourists in need of top nosh. The small bar area - with eclectic decor and cool night-time vibe - opens up onto a larger dining space. Eye-catchingly contemporary art lines the walls (and can be bought), and a feature wall reflects the opulence with its leaf-embossed burnished gold wallpaper. Organic and locally sourced produce is served with equally stylish aplomb - and the seasonal selection ensures an ever-changing menu. Q Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - late. Sat 18:00 - late. Sun 12:00 - 16:00. £££. J

Chiquito C-2, Victoria Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 6770, www.chiquito.co.uk. Every day is a fiesta at this big, bold Mexican restaurant. Zingy Latin America-inspired decor adds a colourful backdrop to the tantalising menu. Acapulco Chicken, Aztec ‘Jambalaya’ and the Mahi Mahi fish dish are among the exotic eats designed to fire up your tastebuds. Fajitas, burritos, tacos and tortillas are served ‘warming’ to ‘volcanic’ on the chilli scale. And salads, steaks and Tex Mex faves ensure everyone is catered for - even the children. All this and equally scrumptious desserts and cocktails keep the party going... ¡Ay, caramba! Q Sun-Thu 12:00 - 22:30, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 23:00. £££.

Deanes B-2, 36 Howard St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 1134, www.michaeldeane.co.uk. NI’s only Michelin star restau-rant is run with panache by local celeb chef Michael Deane. After a recent make-over, his main dining space (others incude Deane’s Deli and Deane’s at Queens) returns resplendent of menu and a tad more minimalist. The locally sourced food includes Free range Fermanagh chicken and Walter Ewing’s smoked salmon - perhaps our most renowned fishmonger. And speaking of which, seek out the restaurant’s intimate Seafood Bar for a selection of marine morsels worthy of our island fare. Expensive, yes, but you gets what you pays for. Q Mon-Sat 10:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. ££££. J

Drennan’s B-4, 43 University Rd, tel. (+44 (0)28 9020 4556, www.drennans.co.uk. Named after William Drennan (1754-1820), doctor, political activist and poet (he coined the phrase ‘Emerald Isle’), no doubt this visionary would approve of his namesake restaurant. The double-height interior gives this cosy spot a welcome feeling of space. Dark woods, greenery, curios and large artwork dominate; it’s as though you are dining in a gracious townhouse (which, we suppose, you are). A pianist evokes a party atmosphere, particularly as the evening progresses and the wine takes hold. And the small, ever-changing menu delivers classy fare with a local touch. Definitely one of Belfast’s best, yet little-known, eateries... hence the need to book ahead. QOpen 17:00 - late. Closed Sun.

Ginger Bistro B-3, 7-8 Hope St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 4421, www.gingerbistro.com. Locally-sourced food is served with an imaginative twist and meticulous attention to detail at this casuall y chic bistro where redhead chef Simon McCance’s ever-changing menu and meet-the-crowd congeniali ty makes for a refreshingly unstuffy atmosphere. Q Mon 17:00 - 21:00. Tues-Thur 12:00-15:00, 17:00 - 21:30. Fri & Sat 12:00-15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. £££. J

Hill Street Brasserie C-1, 38 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9058 6868, www.hillstbrasserie.com. Up Belfast’s cute cobbled Hill Street si ts this stylish yet informal restaurant presents the best of local produce in a friendly contemporary setting. The traditionally-inspired menu includes Rump of Lamb with roasted onion puree, Baked Hake with chorizo and Fillet of Beef with a herb crust. Lunch and Early Bird specials make for an affordable dining experience in the extremely chic Cathedral Quarter. Q Tues-Fri 12:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - late, Sat 12:00- 16:00, 17:00 - late, Sun 17:00 - 21:00. £££. J

Home B-2, 22 Wellington Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 4946, http://homepopup.com. Pop in to this pop up restaurant where everything is for sale - right down to the upcycled furniture courtesy of local arty folk Re:Found. The menu has been put together by the team from Mourne Seafood Bar and encompasses morning coffee, lunchtime deli and delicious evening meals that celebrate our local food. The buzz is out so book ahead to secure your pew and plate. Q Deli: Mon-Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Restaurant: Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Tue-Thu 12:00 - 21:30, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 22:00. £-£££.

James Street South C-2, 21 James St. South, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 4310, www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk. In recent years, this sophisticated restaurant has quickly established a loyal fan base as epicureans seek out the city’s great plates. The 19th Century converted warehouse façade belies a strikingly clean and airy white interior broken up by a fine selection of contemporary Irish art. The big round tables and intimate bar are conducive to girly nights, corporate bashes and special occasions. Indulge in an international menu offering the finest selection of food locals have come to demand at this level. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 14.45, 17:45 - 22:45. Sun 17:30 - 21:00. ££££. J


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Molly’s Yard C-4, 1 College Green Mews, Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 2600. Inside this quaint Queen’s Quarter eaterie is a laid-back downstairs bistro and rustically elegant upstairs restaurant. Local produce such as beef, sea bream and venison feature in the Irish-flavoured menu. And, as befits ownership by the good peo-ple behind Hilden Brewery, this former stables also houses Belfast’s first micro brewery. Molly’s Chocolate Stout and Belfast Blonde are among the inventively-named, and pleasing to the palette, tipples. The restaurant’s bijouness and enduring popularity demand pre-booking to ensure a pew. QOpen 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. ££££.

Nick’s Warehouse C-1, 35 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 9690, www.nickswarehouse.co.uk. Proprietor Nick Price’s pioneering spiri t transformed this former Bushmills whiskey warehouse into a top class restaurant way back in 1989 - at a time when the city’s dining options were somewhat limited. Downstairs the red-brick wine bar and informal Anix still packs in the punters as does the more formal, intimate upstairs restaurant. The menu offers local and international cuisine and prides itself in its range of locally-sourced foods. Service is friendly and meticulous. Q Tues-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. ££££. J

Potted Hen C-1, 11 Edward St, Saint Anne’s Square, behind St. Anne’s Cathedral, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 4554, www.thepottedhen.co.uk. Owners Dermot and Catherine Regan have brought their fresh, local produce sensibili ties from Oregano, its sister restaurant in Newtownabbey, to this city centre bistro. Located in this pristine piazza and opposite the MAC arts centre, the stylish space reflects i ts cour tyard abode with a dark, slate grey floor and interior iron columns. The urban-cool vibe continues with plain wooden furniture, large feature clock, cream panelled walls and exposed duct work on the ceilings. Ascend the curved staircase, or via the roomy lift, to the new 50 seat addition which has increased customer capacity from 75 to 125. The menu often features such fine local eats as Finnebrogue venison, Glenarm salmon and signature ’Potted Hen’ Chicken Liver terrine served in a glass Kilner jar. The a tmosph ere’s as rela xed as th e menu is ref ined. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. ££-£££. J

Salt Bistro C-1, St. Anne’s Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 8012, www.saltbistrobelfast.com. This intimate dining space serves local provenance food in its chic yet casual surroundings. Light floods in from the triple aspect windows overlooking St. Anne’s Cathedral and the epony-mous Square - home to the MAC theatre and gallery. And the artistic theme is embraced with work by local artists adorning its white walls - and available to buy. Pre-theatre options and made to share mezze, seafood and anti pasti plates evoke that laid-back dining vibe. While menu faves include steamed Dundrum mussels, roast quail and Glenarm salmon. Another classy restaurant in Belfast’s latest must-see locale. Q 12:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - late. £££. J

Shu A-5, 253 Lisburn Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9038 1655, www.shu-restaurant.com. One of the most upmarket res-taurants in town and a sure indication that the city’s dining out scene has matured with age. The impeccably attired waiting staff, exquisitely prepared fusion food and contem-porary interior attract a discerning clientele. Upstairs there’s a private dining room for small groups, while downstairs the

55° North K-1, 1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co. Antrim, tel. (+44) (0)28 7082 2811, www.55-north.com. This immaculate white, glass and stone restaurant overlooks Portrush’s East Strand and is an unmissable landmark in the seaside town. The family-run business’s stylish decor and exceptional sea views sit sublimely with the fantastic food. Café 55’s 55 Fish Pie, Tapas Plates and Steak Sandwich are among the foodie faves. The main restaurant’s lunch menu features North Antrim rib eye and beer battered fish of the day. While evening dishes incorporate an equally sublime selection of fish, pasta, vegetarian and grills & meats. Q Daily 12:30 - 14:30, 17:00 - 20:30, Fri & Sat until 22:00. Cafe open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 15:30, 17:00 - late. ££-£££.

Dundonald Old Mill Coffee House & Gift Shop L-3, 231 Belfast Rd, Dundonald, tel. (+44) (0)28 9048 5030, www.dundonaldoldmill.co.uk. Heading east out of Belfast, past Stormont and before Newtownards, you‘ll see a sign for this unique cafe and gift shop. What makes it so special is the large wooden water wheel which, at 32ft in diameter, is said to be one of the largest in Ireland. Originally built in 1752, the Old Mill once powered a linen bleaching mill before conver-sion in 1850 to a corn mill powered by the wheel you see today. After closure in 1920, the mill fell into decline but was restored to its former glory in 1987. Today‘s wheel turns with electricity but still makes a magnificent first impression before you head into the cute gift shop and equally cottage-like upstairs cafe. Grab a home-cooked lunch or coffee and scone before purchasing a posh pressie or two and heading onwards for a daytrip down the picturesque Ards Peninsula... nothing could be quainter. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:30. £. L

Grandstand Restaurant L-3, Drumbo Park Grey-hound Stadium, Ballyskeagh Rd, Lisburn, Co. Down, tel. (+44) (0)28 9061 0070, www.drumbopark.com. Indulge in a delicious three-course dinner at this stylish 300-seater restaurant overlooking Drumbo Park Grey-hound Stadium. Among the locally sourced and elegantly presented dishes are smoked haddock fishcake, potted salt beef, dry aged sirloin steak and garlic and thyme confit chicken. And dessert goodies include blackberry panna cotta, mulled pear and Bramley apple crumble and a ’Winning Trio’ of bijou puds. Sweeping views, plasma screens and a dedicated tote assistant ensure you don’t miss a race... or placing that winning flutter. Find it a beautiful country drive 20mins south of Belfast city. Q Thur-Sat 18:30 - 23:00. £££. L

Out of TownI talianLittle Wing Pizzeria C-2, 10 Ann St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 7000, www.littlewingpizzeria.com. Ditch Domino’s and head for this intimate pizzeria serving Naples-style thin-crust dough discs with classic I talian toppings. Funghi, Pepperoni and Margherita will please the traditionalists, while the Morning Pizzas (Bacon and egg, Marmalade and demerara sugar...) bring something innovative to the table. A funky, rustic interior and fire stone oven adds to the cool, cosy vibe. Q Open 11:00. Closed Mon-Wed 22:00, Thu 23:00, Fri & Sat 24:00. Sun 13:00 - 22:00. ££. JS

SeafoodMourne Seafood Bar C-1, 34-36 Bank St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 8544, www.mourneseafood.com. Situated beside Kelly’s Cellars Irish pub, this extremely popular eaterie serves locally sourced mussels, oysters, langoustine and lots of other delicious marine morsels in a cool and unforced atmosphere. Food is cooked traditional style or with a conti-nental or Asian twist, half dozen oysters and Mourne mussel pots make particularly appealing snacks. The gamut of gastro creations ranges from beer battered fish and chips to whole hot buttered lobster, with everything from locally-brewed ale to bottles of bubbly complementing the cuisine. There’s even a cute fish shop at the front (open Tues-Sat 10:00-17:30) for take-home treats and an upstairs Oyster Bar and Cookery School. And, if fish ain’t your thing, the restaurant also offers prime rib eye steak and veggie options. One of the city’s finest restaurants. Q Mon 12:00 - 17:00. Tues-Thur 12:00 - 21:30. Fri-Sat 12:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 22:30. Sun 13:00-18:00 ££££. J

Tedfords D-1, 5 Donegall Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 4000, www.tedfordsrestaurant.com. This former ships chandlers has changed its exterior from landmark blue to pale taupe and added steak to its acclaimed seafood menu. Inside, the mariner theme may have given way to a more contemporary dining experience, but the food is of the same exceptional standard, and the second floor is designed to reflect the decor of a luxury liner (albeit a small one). Inventive fish dishes such as curry roast monkfish and grilled sea bass with crab and chive mash share the bill with Irish Angus beef and other meaty delights. Still a Belfast institution, despite the repaint. The second floor is available for private dining with menus created to suit the client. QThur & Fri 12:00 - 14:30, Tue-Sat 17:00 - late. ££££. J

Spanish & Latin AmericaLa Boca C-2, 6 Fountain St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 3087, www.labocabelfast.com. Vivid tones and cool canvases dominate this dining space recalling the bohemian dockside district of Buenos Aires. Argentinean-born chef Martin pays homage to his homeland with a Spanish-infused bistro se-lection of food and drink - most notably the authentic tapas, juicy steaks and Argentinean wines. Coffees and chocolate brownies will soothe snack pangs and art lovers will relish the ever-changing exhibition of local work. If you’re looking for a cool city centre dining experience, you can’t get much better than this. Free WiFi. QOpen Tues 12:00 - 20:00, Wed & Thur 12:00 - 21:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 22:00. ££-£££. JWY

Shu Bar stirs up a cocktail of retro funk beats and bistro eats... perfect for late night divas dripping with sophistication. QOpen . Closed Sun. Mon-Thu & Sat 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:00. Fri 17:30 - 21:30. Shu Bar Fri & Sat 19:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. ££££.

St. George’s Market Bar & Grill D-2, 1st Floor, St. George’s Market, Oxford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 0014, www.stgeorgesbargrill.com. Overlooking historic St. George’s Market, the setting for this contem-porary restaurant couldn’t be more appropriate. Many ingredients used in its dishes are sourced from market traders, including Dry Aged Irish Sirloin, Roast North Coast Salmon and Portavogie Tempura Scampi. Stylish booths, and balcony seating with Fri & Sat market views, lend a sophisticated backdrop to your dining experience. Dark woods, subtle lighting and bygone photos add to the relaxed yet refined ambience, and the equally elegant bar area is ideal for a pre and post dinner tipple. Q Tues & Wed: 11:30 - 14:30, Thur: 11:30 - 14:30, 17:00 - 21:00, Fri & Sat: 09:00 - 12:00, 12:30 - 14:30, 17:00 - 22:00. £££-££££. J

Teatro B-4, 17 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 4090, www.teatrobelfast.com. Inspired by travels to ci ties such as Paris, Madrid and Marrakesh, designer Fleur Jackson has transformed this small dining space into a bohemian wonderland. Ar twork, antiques and colourful crockery are thrown together in what seems like an afterthought, but you just know each piece has been lovingly placed. The culinary experience matches the candleli t decor, wi th tapas, kofta and vegetarian mezze among the Mediterranean dishes. And just when you thought it couldn’t get any more seductive, co-owner Kyron Bourke tickles the ivories at his canopy-swathed piano, as an ever-changing coterie of cabaret artistes entertains delighted diners. Q Tue-Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Also Fri, Sat and Sun for lunch/brunch. £££.The Bar + Grill at James Street South B-2, 21 James St. South, tel. (+44) (0)28 9560 0700, www.belfastbargrill.co.uk. Created by the award-winning owners of adjoining James Street South, diners can expect the same local provenance and creative dishes at this laid back bistro. Steaks cooked to order on the charcoal grill evoke the sights and smells of a classic New York Steak House. And we’re particularly loving the retro-inspired desserts and decadent cocktails. Beauti-fully crafted starters, and pasta and risotto dishes served small or large, keep the tastebuds and budgets in check. Private dining and an onsite cookery school cater for all you city-bound epicureans. Q Daily 12:00 - 21:30. ££-£££. J


You want chips with that?


35cafés & bistros34 cafés & bistros


Brights C-1, 23-25 High St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9044 5688, www.brightsrestaurantbelfast.com. Award-winning Ulster fries and sizzling fajitas sum up the extent of this spacious eatery’s hugely popular menu. Locals have always loved it, and now tourists are joining them to sample plump, juicy and locally-sourced sausages that share plate space with regional classics such as soda and potato bread. Other indigenous fare includes Beef and Guinness Pie, Dublin Coddle and Col-cannon - each served with a handy guide to their Irish origins. Frothy lattes and decadent desserts keep shoppers and suits happy too and the large H&W Belfast pics will leave you re-freshed and ready for further city exploration. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Also at 23-25 Castle St and Antrim Rd (take-away). ££. J

Café Conor B-5, 11a Stranmillis Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9066 3266, www.caféconor.com. Once the studio of lo-cal painter William Conor, this modern bistro café is a great place to relax after exploring the nearby Botanic Gardens and Ulster Museum. The artistic theme continues with canvases displayed throughout its lofty skylighted interior. There’s a great selection of gourmet grub and the convivial atmosphere ensures a steady stream of stylish regulars. One of the most appealing restaurants in town. QOpen 09:00 - late. Break-fast served Mon-Fri 9:00 - 12:00. Sat-Sun 9:00 - 15:00. ££.

Café Renoir B-4, 93 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 1300, www.caférenoir.net. This family-run café/restaurant is a three-pronged attack on the tastebuds. Every evening, Pizza Renoir dishes up the Italian classics with an incredible array of exotic and traditional toppings. To its left, cosmopoli-tan types shoot the breeze over a creamy cappuccino and devilishly decadent home-baked cake. And upstairs, friends and lovers work their way through an eclectic international menu washed down with a hoppy German beer. One of the

friendliest, most laid-back cafés in town... and with some of the best food too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. Also at (B-2) 5 Queen St, tel (+44) (0)28 9032 5592, open Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Thur 09:00 - 19:30. £.

Crane View Kitchens & Dockers Lounge G-2, T13, Queens Rd, Titanic Quarter, www.t13.tv. Dine like a docker beneath the shadow of those big yellow cranes at this canteen-style cafe. The signature dish bowl of stew, ginormous Belfast Bap and bottle of milk, followed by cuppa and bun, replicates the workers’ staple diet during the city’s shipbuilding heyday. Platters pies and chips are also on the menu. And costumed guides serve up a theatrical side-dish of shipyard tales. Curios and furnishing from a bygone age are fashioned by on-site emporium Crafty Belfast. Find it in the T13 urban sports warehouse space opposite the Titanic Belfast visitor experience. Q Daily 10:00 - 18:00. Evening bookings advised. ££

Dark Horse C-1, 30-34 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 7807, www.thedarkhorsebelfast.com. It’s the future - cafes that look like bars. And sitting opposite its big brother, the Duke of York pub, what else would you expect but a cool, laid back space reflective of its equally insouciant sibling? Dark wood panelling, stained glass lanterns and antique mirrors lend it a Gentleman’s Club ambience. And the Victo-rian floor tiles, feature ceiling and leather seating continue the parlour-like vibe. Soup, sandwiches and free WiFi shore up the lunchtime clientele. And, though there’s no alcohol, you can buy a pint and amble back from the Duke of York. Q Mon-Wed 10:00 - 18:00, Thu-Sat 10:00 - 01:00. JW

Deanes Deli C-3, 44 Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 8800, www.michaeldeane.co.uk. Owned by Michael Deane, one of NI’s top restaurateurs, this New York-style deli offers a chance to sample the Deane experience at a more affordable price. Eavesdrop on media types (the BBC is just around the corner) or make a beeline to the next door shop stuffed with all manner of fancy grub-to-go and Deane’s branded goodies. The sit-in menu reads like a hymn to all things glorious about good, fresh food. Seafood, salads, sausages, steak... it’s all here and looking as fabulous as the sparkly clientèle. Q Mon-Tues 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Wed-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ££. J

Fed & Watered D-1, Obel Tower, 66 Donegall Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 1723. Breakfast and lunch is served at this classy yet laid-back cafe situated on the ground floor of the Obel, Belfast’s - and indeed Ireland’s - tallest building. Soups, salads, sandwiches and a selection of hot food keep those hunger pangs satiated before a riverside stroll, Titanic Boat Tour or walk across the Lagan Weir into Titanic Quarter. Tea, coffee and pastries also help lift the sugar levels - after all that sightseeing you deserve nothing less. Q Mon-Fri: 08:00 - 16:00, Sat: 10:00 - 16:00. £-££.

Galley Café D-2, The Barge, Lanyon Quay (beside Waterfront Hall), tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 5973, http://laganlegacy.com/galley_cafe/. Step aboard The Barge, the maritime museum moored beside the Belfast Waterfront, and turn left into this industrial chic eating space. Pale wood tables and chairs populate the cafe, and tall tables and stools afford on-the-river views. Food is served on wooden platters and the menu features some delightfully quirky touches... we love The Dockers Club Sandwich, The Sweet Shap dessert (including clove rock ice cream) and the Belfast Platter (locally sourced meats, cheese, pork pies and chutney). Seafood abounds, as befits its shoreline setting, so we heartily rec-ommend you dive in and enjoy. Q Mon-Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu-Sat 10:00 - 24:00. ££. JWY

Grapevine C-1, 5 Pottinger’s Entry. Very easy to miss, but worth seeking out down a historic little alley, this small café serves great value wholesome and homemade food that’s a bit more adventurous than the norm at this price range. We’re talking gumbo, beef stew with rosemary and seafood chowder, as well as the usual office worker faves of salads and sandwiches. They say ’food with soul’ and we’re inclined to agree. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. £. J

Harlem C-2/3, 34 Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 4860. This bright and breezy spot is perenially populated by suits and creatives from the nearby BBC thrashing out ideas over scrummy brunches, lunches and daytime treats. Seafood Chowder, pan-fried pork chop and French Toast with bacon and maple syrup are among the menu delights that keep folk lingering well beyond eat o’clock. The decor is as stylish as the clientelle, but the vibe is nice and laid-back. QOpen Mon-Thu 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - late (bistro menu from 18:00), Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. ££. J

Made In Belfast B-2, Wellington St, www.madein-belfastni.com. Industrial warehouse collides stylishly with thrown-together chic at this urban diner. Miss-matched fur-niture, lampshades and mirrors populate its double height expanse and scuffed floorboards hark back to the building’s fashion emporium past. The menu is as nostalgic as the decor, with retro fish finger sandwiches, coronation chicken salad and toffee flavour pokes (that’s an ice cream cone to you) all for the asking. Ingredients are locally sourced where possible and occasionally organic too. Definitely the new place to chill out in the city centre. Find it off Donegall Square West and a second Cathedral Quarter branch inTalbot St. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. £££. J

Muriel’s Cafe Bar C-1, 12-14 Church Lane, off High St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 2445. Nestled between High St’s In Shops and St. George’s Church is this glorious little retreat named after its former resident milliner and sometime ’angel of the footpath’. Damask drapes, velvet seating and dark walls are illuminated with mirrors, chandeliers and an open fire. Downstairs, a display of hat paraphernalia reflects Muriel’s less lascivious past. The food ranges from a great breakfast selection to all-day meat, cheese and seafood platters. Come the weekend, DJs play suitably eclectic background music for the stylish clientèle. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. £££. J

Printers Cafe Bar C-1, 33 Lower Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 3406, www.daniellemcq.com. This stylish little bistro shares a side-street with the Duke of York bar and, like its neighbour, attracts journos, arty types and hungry businessfolk. The small, yet impressively global, week-end evening menu is as aspirational as the clientelle. A real Cathedral Quarter find. Q Mon-Thur 12:00 - 15:00. Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 21:30. Sat 18:00-late. Closed Sun. £££. J

Spires Restaurant & Coffee Shop B-2, Spires Mall, Great Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 2881. At the heart of Spires Mall sits this open-plan café with a great self-service selection of salads, paninis and hot dishes - including the all important cooked breakfast - to shore up hungry shoppers. Tea, coffee and traybakes (flatish cakey treats) keep the munchies at bay, and the soothing blues music prepares you for further retail fun. News junkies can keep an eye on the plasma TV or choice of daily reads. A real treat in the heart of the city. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. ££. J

Coffee & SnacksCaffè Nero C-2, Unit A1, Fountain Centre, College St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 8282, www.caffenero.com. Blue and black signs for this café chain are springing up all over town, but our favourite location is this two-storey space on Fountain Street. Leather sofas, lucious lattes and the usual assortment of paninis, sandwiches and sweets serve a busy lunchtime clientèle. If it’s warm and dry, head upstairs and outside for a rooftop Fountain Centre perch. You’d almost think you were somewhere... QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Also at (C-2) House of Fraser in Victoria Square, (C-1) Rosemary St. and (C-2) 48-50 Ann St £. JW

Clements C-4, 66 Botanic Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 1827. One of the city’s best coffee chains, locally-owned Clements boasts several locations across the city and a rather hip, young clientele, epseically in its Botanic Ave location. A range of top-notch coffees are prepared by award-winning baristas and the yummy sweets and scones make divine accompaniments. Squishy sofas and a selec-tion of newspapers provide the perfect place for languid contemplation. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Also at (C-2), 4 Donegall Sq. West; (C-2), Castle St; 342 Lisburn Rd; (C-1), 37 Rosemary St; (C-1), 131 Royal Ave. £. J

The Dock Cafe G-2, Arc Apartments, Queens Rd, Ti-tanic Quarter, www.the-dock.org. Between the Odyssey and SS Nomadic, in a shop unit at this new apartment com-plex, is a pop-up cafe with a difference. Run by Titanic Quarter chaplain, and Titanic Walking Tour guide, Chris Bennett, and like-minded clergy, the cafe has an honesty box instead of a till. Which means you can choose how much you want to


37Nightlife36 cafés & bistros


Avoca C-2, 41 Arthur St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 9950, www.avoca.ie. What this Irish style icon does so well is pull together a distinct blend of unique designer styles, gifts and accessories and mix it with fabulous Food Hall treats and cafe delights. The boho set has become well and truly ensconced, so why not join them in one of the city’s most divine shops. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. ££-£££ J

Bookfinders B-4, 47 University Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 8269. Grab a dusty novel and join the intelligentsia at the back of this shabby-chic second-hand bookshop. Students from nearby Queen’s University share its bijou space with well-known local writers to enjoy a menu of hot dishes (including fab soups and pasta) and monthly poetry, prose and drama recitals. No table or chair is alike, but that just adds to its no-frills charm. The perfect literary haven for soul-searching scribes. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. £. W

City Picnic B -2, 16 Castle St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6122, www.citypicnic.com. Zingy opal frui t-coloured picnic benches, big metal l ic lights and shiny white tiles welcome you into this spacious corner store and cafe. But this ain’t no ordinary shop, for sitting alongside newspapers and magazines is a galloping gourmand’s treasure trove of globally-sourced treats. Oreos, Italian Olive Oils and Asian sauces share space with local produce, and the cafe and take-out side continues the theme with bagels, burritos, subs and salads among the menu faves. Save space for the shakes, smoothies, and giant swirls of ice cream in fabulous flavours such as cream egg, bubble gum and strawberry cheesecake. Or re-energise with freshly ground coffee as the kids enjoy Sunday’s cupcake-making classes (check ahead). All this and the WiFi’s free. Q Mon-Wed and Fri 07:30 - 18:00, Thur 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. £. JW

Equinox B-2, 32 Howard St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 0089, www.equinoxshop.com. For the more refined among you, this gloriously decadent store provides enough designer booty to satiate even the classiest recipient. An ever-changing window display hints at the designer homeware and gi fts within. And when you’re feeling peckish after all that retail therapy, head to the bijou cafe at the back of the shop. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Thu 09:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. J

Smyth & Gibson C-2, Bedford House, Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 0388, www.smythand-gibson.com. Upstairs in this bespoke gentleman’s shirtmakers is a cute little coffee shop serving a small yet salient selection of hot brews and sweet snacks. A great place to flick through FHM or Harpers & Queens before continuing your shopping onslaught. QOpen 07:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. £. J

See also Aunt Sandra’s Candy Factory and Co Couture in Shopping (p.59).

Shops with cafés pay for your coffee, tea and biscuit. Books, big sofas and beautiful NI travel prints from Holywood’s Yard Gallery make for tranquil escape from your sightseeing sojourn. Q Tue-Sat 11:00 - 19:00. £.

Urban Soul C-2, 23 May St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 5554, www.maystreetchurch.co.uk. Located in the basement of May Street Church, this unique spiri tual oasis is a world away from the city’s insistent noise and buzz. There’s nowhere else like it in Belfast - a café that practises Christian ideology with freedom of expression and creativity at the forefront of its ethos. QOpen Mon-Fri 10:00 - 15:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. £. JW

Yummy Sandwiches B-2, Spires Mall, Upper Queen St. entrance, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 2881, www.yum-mysandwiches.co.uk. This bijou food kiosk offers a bit more than the average city centre sandwich bar. Burgers, hot dogs, homemade soup, toasties and daily specials sit alongside salads, snacks and those all-important sandwiches. There’s a couple of stools and tables on which to perch as you eat before you hit the shops inside the stylish Spires Mall. QOpen 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. £. JW

Fish & ChipsLong’s Fish Restaurant B-2, 39 Athol St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 1848. For almost a Century, Long’s has been serving misers, minions and millionaires its classic chips-with-everything fare. The wood-panelled walls and formica booths provide an authentic chip shop backdrop for folk who like their food sans the fancy trimmings, designer vibe or faux-retro decor. Honest-to-goodness fried food from the oldest chippy in town. As they say in Belfast, you can’t beat it with a big stick. Find it off Grosvenor Rd. QOpen 11:45 - 18:30, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. £. JS

Mr. JDs New Titanic Restaurant G-2, 222 New-townards Rd, M3, tel. (+44) (0)28 9045 8383. This honest-to-goodness chippy, near East Belfast’s shipyard and Titanic mural, has embraced the maritime theme with old photos, newspaper cuttings, Titanic models and other memorabilia. Maritime souvenirs including prints, t-shirts and postcards are also available to buy with some profits going to the Nomadic Preservation Society. Food-wise, opt for the 2-for-1 pastie lunch deal or go BIG with the Titanic Special 16oz cod with chips and peas. Segafredo coffee and Mr. Smoothie ice creams round off the grub. Seating for 60, a gluten free range and five-star ratings confirm its status and populari ty amongst those in the know. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Last sit-in orders 18:30. £.

Spuds B-4, 37 Bradbury Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 1541. We simply love this counter-service chip shop for daring to offer students, suits and the slightly sozzled (it’s on the pub-strewn Golden Mile) a fantastic array of fast food. Yes they’ve got the usual chips and burgers, but how about a baked potato filled with chicken in pepper sauce, lasagne and ‘slaw or bacon, cabbage & mash to take away or eat in at their tiny metal tables. These Belfast guys and gals do it better than the big boys, so get stuck in. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. £. S

Contemporary bars21 Social C-1, 1 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 1415, www.21social.co.uk. The modernist exterior of this Cathedral Quarter fave swathes three floors of food, drink and music in super sleek surroundings. Weekends bring out the party posse and make this hotspot the life and soul of the city’s coolest night-time hub. Q Mon-Tues 12:00 - 23:00, Wed 12:00 - 24:00, Thur-Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. JK

Apar tment C-2, 2 Donegall Square West, tel. (+44) (0)28 9050 9777, www.apartmentbelfast.com. A familiar haunt for trendy young things search-ing for future bedmates through the haze of assorted cocktails and other potions. The views across the City Hall are spectacular - day or night - and the Asian and trad-modern food is superb value. The Ground Floor Apartment pavement-level space delivers a sleek menu dedicated to freshl y blended coffees and designer beers. Delish. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JKY

Café Vaudeville C-2, 25 Arthur St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 9160, www.cafévaudeville.com. A riot of ritzy glamour and rich hues dazzles beneath the stained-glass dome of this neo-classical former bank building. The up-stairs ’Bolli Bar’ and ground floor flir ting zone is favoured by the ’second chance at romance’ brigade (you get the picture). Cheesy retro tunes sit incongruously with the sumptuously ornate, chandelier-strewn wonderland, but the glammed up natives seem happy. Food is served late morning to evening. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. Closed Sun. JKW

Irene and Nans B-2, 12 Brunswick St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 9123, www.ireneandnans.com. Time the bar staff with the kitsch 1950s Bakelight and starburst clocks as you jostle for position among the baying hordes. The dining area, cocktail list, resident DJ and lounging sofas provide day-to-night diversions for an upbeat crowd clinging to their fading youth: and any half-decent passer by. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.Closed Sun. JK

Morrisons C-3, 21 Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 0030. Students, young professionals and media luvvies from the nearby BBC gravi tate towards this popular downtown bar. Inside, there’s a cool, modern vibe with comfy alcoves, window seats and high bar stools & tables breaking up the ground floor. The contemporary upstairs bar benefi ts from subtle lighting, studded aluminium panels, laid back sofas and a deep red and monochrome décor. A great place to grab some delicious lunch and indulge in a civilised drink or three... QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JK

Northern Whig C-1, 2 Bridge St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9050 9888, www.thenorthernwhig.com. Once the of-fices of an old Belfast newspaper, this 19th Century listed building was reborn in the 90s as a big, bold bar/nightclub. Avoiding the obvious newspaper theme, the Whig’s new interior is inspired by the Soviet Revolution. Three colos-sal socialist statues imported from Prague take centre stage, and the cocktail list features bolshy-faves Lenin and Archangel. The space is cavernous - rising up three floors - but it’s still packed every weekend with trendy sorts of varying wrinklage. Good food is served throughout the day. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. JK

Spaniard C-1, 3 Skipper St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 2448, www.thespaniardbar.com. Wallpapered with vintage 80s record sleeves, and with just enough room to swing a straw donkey, this little watering hole is as cosy as it is cool. After-work and pre-club tipplers have made this Cathedral Quarter haunt their home. Its relaxed retro style is as kitsch as a Benidorm ashtray and, if you closed your eyes while sipping a cervesa, you could almost believe you were in Spain. We said almost. Look for the smiling Salvador Dali down the side of The Merchant Hotel and you’re there. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JK

Traditional BarsBittles C-2, 103 Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 1088. This 19th Century structure resembles a mini version of New York’s Flatiron building. Occupying a corner site near the Albert Clock and shiny Victoria Square, Bittles is a small bar steeped in history and attracting an older crowd by day and younger boozers late on. Originally called the Shakespeare, the literary theme has continued with portraits of famous Irish writers, including Yeats, Wilde and Joyce. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 11:30 - 19:00. JK

Crown Liquor Saloon B-2, 46 Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 3187, www.crownbar.com. Owned by the Na-tional Trust and without question Belfast’s most famous bar, this is the first place tourists head for their inaugural pint of Guinness. Outside it’s a remarkable riot of mosaic tiles, and the opulence continues inside with more tiles, etched windows and an intri-cately carved ceiling. The snugs, gas lamps and long granite bar all hark back to the bar’s Victorian origins but the eclectic crowd helps this grand old dame keep her youth. Good nourishing food is served both in the bar and upstairs in the Crown Dining Rooms. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. JK


Big Mouth. Eco sculpture at Queen’s University Library.

38 Nightlife


Duke of York C-1, 7 Commercial Court, off Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 1062. Hidden down a cobbled Cathedral Quarter alley off Donegall St. this fantastic pub pays homage to Belfast’s industrial past and centuries-old newspaper trade. Art students, old hacks and media types come together to enjoy great live music and retro disco tunes in a decidedly unpretentious, super-friendly setting. Politicos among you may be interested to learn that Sinn Fein leader Gerry Adams used to be a barman here. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Thu-Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. JEK

Garrick C-2, 29 Chichester St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 1984, www.thegarrickbar.com. Dark wood ceilings strewn with big glass lanterns, booths with button down leather and copper pumps and pipes retain a traditional Victorian vibe in the downstairs bar. And the elegant aura extends to the top floor room and back bar which also features a fabulous Venetian mirror, quirky display of barometres and, somewhat disturbingly, a dilapidated doll dangling overhead. Footy fans can watch live matches on the big screens and music fans can enjoy trad sessions and the Belfast Music Club’s DJ sets on Wed and Fri-Sun nights. Good food is served seven days a week. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. JEK

Hudson Bar B-1, 10-14 Gresham St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 2322, www.hudsonbelfast.com. The sign says ’Whiskey, Ales and Disco’ and that perfectly embodies this stylishly retro venue. It may have opened in 2011, but the bar instantly exudes a feeling of warm familiarity, from the vintage chic decor to in-the-know patrons. And by that we mean music lovers, arty students and drink aficionados - check out the Titanic Whiskey and great selection of brews. Thursday’s music night is hosted by local legend Terri Hooley who discovered The Undertones - an indication of the bar’s prowess and ambitions. Another positive step towards the re-invention of this side of the city. Q Mon-Tue 11:30 - 19:00, Wed 11:30 - 20:00, Thu-Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 12:30 -00:00.

John Hewitt C-1, 51 Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 3768, www.thejohnhewitt.com. This much-loved Cathedral Quarter stalwart is as traditional as they come. Named after a local poet and socialist, the bar is privately owned by the Belfast Unemployed Resource Centre. All dark wood, real fires and board games; it’s the perfect place to relax with a pint and shoot the breeze with the customary band of scribes and boho-types. With award-winning food, and regular jazz and Irish music sessions, it’s easy to forget this fantastic melting pot only opened in 1999. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00. JEK

Kelly’s Cellars C-1, 30 Bank St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6058. Down a sidestreet off Royal Avenue lurks this 16th Century black and white bar, one of the city’s oldest and, in our opinion, most authentic. Positively no pandering to tourists, designer cocktail lists or faux-trad nonsense. Instead, it’s all about the serious business of imbibing as the congregation worships at the high altar of Arthur Guinness and co. Regular outbursts of Irish music add to its unforced charm. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. JEK

Kitchen Bar C-2, 38 Victoria Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 4901, www.thekitchenbar.com. Exposed bricks, painted girders and wooden beams retain a trad air amid a distinctly modern warehouse vibe. Visitors can enjoy a legendary Paddy’s Pizza (with hot soda bread base) and pint of real ale. Live music sessions attract a diverse blend

of raconteurs, artisans, trendy types and shoppers from neighbouring Victoria Square. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. JEK

Laverys B-4, 12 Bradbury Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9087 1106, www.laverysbelfast.com. This three-storey drinking den has long been home to a colourful clientele of old boys, bikers, students and dead-heads. Its enduring charm makes ’Lavs’ one of Belfast’s hardy old bars and an absolute must for pub crawlers and music enthusiasts. The complex mixes a trad bar at the front with cool and quirky live music and club nights in other rooms and poolhall at the top of the shop. Go on, fill yer boots. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:30 - 24:00. JEK

McHughs D-1, 29 Queens Square, tel. (+44) (0)28 9050 9999, www.mchughsbar.com. This revamped Grade A listed building dates back to 1711, making i t Belfast’s oldest bar (though others contest the claim). The beauti fully restored façade faces pedestrianised Custom House Square - venue for many open air concerts and cultural events. Inside the bar you’ll find nooks and crannies crammed with salvaged emblems of Belfast’s industrial past. The restaurant serves an imaginative traditional menu and the basement bar heaves with an older crowd tempted by its traditional music sessions, live bands and discos. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JEKY

Monico Bars C-1, 17 Lombard St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 3211. Tiled floors, vintage mirrors and a strong sporting theme infuse this traditional city centre haven. The front bar is full of Belfast characters enraptured by the horse racing - and the sports motif continues with bygone photos and prints, and large plasma screens showing the latest action (the neighbouring bookies is handy for a sneaky lunchtime bet). The back lounge has live music every weekend, and pub grub faves such as Irish stew, steak and peppered chicken go well with the daily drinks promos. Find the entrance down historic Winecellar Entry, off Lombard Street. Q Mon-Thur 11:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. Food served Mon-Sat 12:00 - 18:00 Sun 1:30 18:00. . JEK

Robinsons B-2, 38 Gt. Victoria St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 7447, www.robinsonsbar.co.uk. This colossal complex of five bars spread over three floors features Fibber Magee’s - an Irish back bar with regular folk music sessions, BT1 - a stylish basement bar with unisex toilets, Bistro Lounge and Roxy nightclub on the first floor and the main Robinsons bar at street level. The big Victorian building’s diverse decor is designed to appeal to all ages and nightlife tastes. And with the Grand Opera House right across the road, it’s very handy for a pre-theatre nosh-up. Big, as they say, is beautful. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:30 - 24:00. JEK

Titanic Pub and Kitchen C-1, 2-14 Little Donegall St, off Royal Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 7214, www.titanicpubbelfast.com. Standing proudly between Central Library and the Belfast Telegraph newspaper, this 19th century listed building once housed a furniture company that provided mattresses to RMS Titanic. Today it’s a family-owned entertainment colossus whose traditional red brick and dark wood interior pays homage to the ship’s Belfast roots. Have a gander at the photos, stories and framed newspaper cuttings dotted throughout. Live weekend music and classy pub grub (Mon-Wed 12:00 - 18:00, Thur-Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00) evoke a welcoming atmosphere. While the resident mixologist concocts cocktails and hosts


40 Nightlife 41Nightlife


Kremlin C-1, 96 Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9080 9700, www.kremlin-belfast.com. A giant Lenin statue marks what many regard as Ireland’s number one gay hot spot. As the name suggests, a Soviet-style industrial opulence exudes throughout the complex’s extravagant decor, with Tsar, Long Bar and Red Square continuing the communist-chic vibe. Theme nights encompass all man-ner of hi-jinx including fetish, foam and fancy dress. And frequent celeb performances make it the city’s answer to London’s G.A.Y. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Wed. JE

Mynt C-1, 2 Dunbar St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 4520, www.myntbelfast.com. Blfast’s origial gay venue is getting a major revamp. Until the opeing, cubbers can still enjoy late night fun and gigs at Kinetic (Fri) and Yello (Sat). JEK

Union Street C-1, 14 Union St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 6060, www.unionstreetpub.com. Situated in a 19th Century shoe factory, this is one of the city’s most stylish bars. The two storey-high interior of ex-posed brick, industrial pipes and pale green and chrome décor gives the bar a cool yet comfy vibe. It’s a popular pre-club venue beside the Kremlin nightclub. Theme nights can range from Bingo and Karaoke to quizzes and cabaret. Quelle fun. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. JK

Gay Belfastmasterclasses - you simply must try the Titanic Cocktail. Upstairs is a suite of 28 snooker and American Pool tables.QMon-Thur 11:00 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 00:00. JEKW

White’s Tavern C-1, 2 Winecellar Entry, off Lombard St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 3080, www.whitestavern.co.uk. You’ll find one of Belfast oldest bars tucked down a back alley complete with honest to goodness cobblestones. Downstairs is all dark and brooding with peat fires and trad music to warm the soul. At weekends the upstairs bar becomes the haunt of locals in the know, from boho-chic students to those who wish they still were. The relaxed melee of eclectic styles and sounds embraces a cool clientele draped across sofas and a DJ perched in his lofty balcony. Dance, don’t dance: no pressure. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. JEK

Live musicBlack Box C-1, 18 Hill St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 4400, [email protected], www.blackboxbelfast.com. The Cathedral Quarter’s latest intimate arts venue is home to music, theatre, comedy and many other eclectic nights out. Join the boho set in this delightful renovated building which consistently throws up some of the city’s most culturally diverse nights out. JEY

Empire B-4, 40 Botanic Ave, M7, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 8110, www.thebelfastempire.com. This 19th Century converted church is a two-in-one venue with a comprehensive programme of live comedy, music and clubbing. Upstairs the Victorian music hall theme provides a sumptuous backdrop for live music performances. The basement bar serves great value food and, at night, becomes a hive of activity for beer connoisseurs. During term time (Sep-June), Belfast’s longest running comedy club attracts top acts attempting to win over one of the toughest audiences on the circuit. EK

Limelight/Spring & Airbrake C-3, 15-17 Ormeau Ave, (+44) (0)28 9032 7007, www.limelightbelfast.com. On either side of Katy Daly’s bar sit two of the best music venues in town. The older Limelight is a dark and moody music venue attracting an impressive line-up of emerging and well-known acts. The club nights are a big hit with the city’s indie kids. Its neighbour has a more diverse live music policy with indie bands, rock tribute and alt-country regulars on the line-up. Always busy and always a good night out if you’re seriously into your music. JE

Sports BarsRockies D-1, Odyssey Pavilion, 2 Queen’s Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9046 7020, www.rockiessportsbar.com. From Wayne Gretzky to Wayne McCullough... local and North American sports stars’ memorabilia adorns every spare space of this shrine-like sports bar. Canadian owner, and for-mer ice hockey professional, Jim Graves has left no puck, ball or jersey unturned in his quest to represent sporting legends from his native country, the USA and NI. And his dedication has unearthed quite a few Irish emigrants who became big players across the pond... providing Rockies with a fascinat-ing Wall of Fame devoted to our forgotten heroes. Fans of the Belfast Giants and visiting teams make it heir bar of choice. A pool table and plasma screens enhance the sports theme. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

ClubsEl Divino off D-2, Mays Meadow, Laganbank Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 2000, www.eldivino-belfast.com. Four rooms across three floors make this the city’s biggest nightclub. Its Ibizan origins have influenced the design, with a laid-back ground floor lounge, the first floor’s intimate Little Disco and exclusive Green Room and the top floor’s main space completing the club line-up. They say Superclub - and who are we to argue? Find it along the River Lagan walkway, heading east from the Hilton Hotel.QOpen Thur-Sat, Mon 21:00 - 02:00.

M Club B-4, 23 Bradbury Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 3131, www.mclub.co.uk. This church of cheese, high tem-ple of tack, minster of madness (you get the picture) makes no apologies for its big, brash naughtiness. Outside, a giant block of flashing lights beckons swarms of half-dressed girls and post-pubescent boys, eager for a Saturday night of hot club capers. On Fridays, the 70s-themed disco attracts an older crowd reliving their glory days from the decade taste forgot. Stags and hens could do a lot worse. QOpen Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 01:00. Downstairs VBar open Mon-Sat from 18:00.JE

Rain C-1, 10-14 Tomb St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 7308, www.rainnightclub.co.uk. The kind of loud, vibrant and hedonistic club beat-junkies crave, theme nights encom-pass the usual rash of student nights, club anthems, house music and chart hits. The stylish red-brick space sits snugly at the edge of the Cathedral Quarter opposite the giant reflective Royal Mail building.QOpen 21:00 - 03:00 J

Find more pubs and clubs at belfast.inyourpocket.com


43What to see42 What to see


Buildings & CuriositiesAlbert Memorial Clock C-1, High St. Belfast’s most prominent timepiece was built from 1865-1870 in memory of Queen Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert, who died in 1862. The 43m-high landmark is famous as Belfast’s very own leaning tower. Like many city structures, it was built on reclaimed land on the River Farset’s somewhat squishy foundations and cur-rently leans 1.25m to the left. A two-year £multi-million restora-tion project saw craftsmen working ’round the clock’ to spruce up its sandstone, polish its two tonne bell and add gold leaf to its four faces. The area around the clock was once the stomp-ing ground for ladies of the night ’servicing’visiting sailors. J

Belfast City Hall C-2, Donegall Square, www.bel-fastcity.gov.uk/cityhall. A magnificent sight, especially when viewed from Royal Avenue, this imposing Portland stone and copper-domed building was completed in 1906 as a symbol of Belfast’s new city status. Queen Victoria stands at the front, and the grounds are dotted with many more statues and monuments, details of which can be found on a large map at the gates. Check out The Bobbin café, whose name reflects Belfast’s linen-making past, and No Mean City exhibition. And take a free 45min guided tour for a behind-the-scenes glimpse at this iconic building. Q The Bobbin café open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Free 45min tours: Mon-Fri 11:00, 14:00, 15:00; Sat 14:00 and 15:00. JKYh

Belfast Masts C-2, Donegall Place. Each of these eight 16.2m high copper structures is named after a White Star Line ship built in Belfast, among them Olympic, Britannic, Nomadic and, of course, Titanic. The masts feature large-scale banners, info panels at each base and are illuminated at night. J

CS Lewis statue M4. G-2, Holywood Rd, M3. Stood fittingly outside Holywood Arches Library, this life-size statue is called The Searcher. It depicts the Belfast-born Chronicles of Narnia author as Narnia narrator Digory Kirke stepping into a wardrobe - no doubt in search of his mystical land. Sculptor Ross Wilson unveiled the bronze statue in 1998 - the centenary of Lewis’ birth. EB

Custom House D-1, Custom House Square. The chiselled heads of Neptune, Britannia and Mercury gaze down from this stately 1850’s Italianite building whose sweeping steps have long been a platform for protests and speeches galvanising the working man. Look out for the bronze sculpture of a Speaker representing this oratorical past. Victorian novelist Anthony Trollope used to work here, and is commemorated with a Blue Plaque. The pedestrianised Square provides

If you’re on a whistle-stop day trip, join an open top bus tour for a 90min scoot round the major sights. Belfast City Hall, Botanic Gardens, Queen’s University and the Shankill and Falls Roads are all on the route, as is a brief diversion to Stormont with Belfast City Sightseeing (up to 14:00) and the Harland & Wolff shipyard, home of Titanic Belfast. Shoppers should head to Victoria Square. Then, if you’ve time to spare, head north on Metro Bus N°1, jumping off at Belfast Castle, Belfast Zoo and Cavehill Country Park for unbeatable views across the city and NI.Stay on the right track with these keys (from p.21):WB = West Belfast EB = East BelfastSB = South Belfast NB = North Belfast

Essential Belfast

20 Stops Including 22 ssLiving History TourWall MuralsTitanic QuarterParliament Buildings (Stormont)

Belfast CitySightseeing Ltd, Unit 16, Duncrue Industrial Estate, Duncrue Road, Belfast BT3 9B Tel: 02890 321 321 Fax: 02890 33 33 88

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F-2, 53-55 Crumlin Rd, M12, tel. (+44) (0)28 9074 1500, www.crumlin-roadgaol.com. The forebod-ing North Belfast edifaces of Crumlin Road Gaol and Courthouse stand face-to-face and are connected by an underground tunnel once used to spirit prisoners from the Gaol to the Courthouse for trial - and back if convicted.The Neo-Palladian Courthouse was opened in 1850 and is topped by a scales-free figure of Justice. Since its official closure in 1998, the building has been used as a makeshift theatre, film location and cinema. It is currently owned by a private developer and there are no plans for its future use. As a result, it is in an appaling state of disrepair having been targeted by arsonists, vandals and break-ins.Opened in 1845, the black basalt and red sandstone Crumlin Road Gaol (pronounced jail) was designed by Sir Charles Lanyon and inspired by the cutting-edge layout of London’s Pentonville Prison. The Gaol’s four Wings (A-D) radiate from a centre Circle and rise three storeys, with a fourth basement level. Each small prison cell was built for single occupancy, though many housed up to four cellmates during the 1970s.In the early years, inmates included women, children and petty criminals - some bound for Australia’s penal colonies. Suffragettes were also housed here before female emancipation following WW1. Throughout the Troubles, the Gaol witnessed many breakouts, bombings and rooftop protests.Inmates and internees of note (and for various reasons and sentences) have included Ian Paisley, Eamon de Valera, loyalist murderer Michael Stone and Shankill Butcher Lenny Murphy.Since its closure in 1996, the building laid derelict until recent restoration work and tours breathed new life back into ‘The Crum’. And, from 19 Nov 2012, the Gaol opens as the city’s latest permanent visitor attraction. Conducted by trained guides, each c.1hr tour begins at the front entrance, taking visitors inside via the reception and Governor’s Corridor. You then descend into the tunnel where ghosts including The Victorian Gentleman are said to still haunt.The Circle, with its ornate wrought iron railings and spiral staircase, is the next stop before continuing down a restored wing and into one of the 550 or so cells. At the end of the wing is the Condemned Man’s Cell - larger than the others as it also housed two 24hr prison officers. Seventeen men were executed at Crumlin Road Gaol from 1854-1961, and all but two remain buried in unmarked graves at the back of the complex.Your first glimpse of the original hangman’s noose is guar-anteed to leave even the hardiest of visitors slack-jawed. And the descent to the basement ‘drop cell’ - where the dead man was left to dangle until sure death - will send a shiver down the straightest of spines.A short walk outside reveals the large back yard, old hospital building - and those unmarked graves - before you step back inside to explore B Wing. Left as it was when the gaol closed in 1996, this Wing’s Padded Cell makes for particularly eerie viewing. Conference and educational research facilities are available. And a new shop and cafe complete your unique day out. Q Daily 09:30 - 17:00. Adult £7.50, 4-15 £5.50, U4 free, family (2+2) £22. Tours 10:00 - 16:30 daily. HRK

Crumlin Road Gaol and Courthouse


44 What to see 45What to see


a sparkly space for Sk8er Bois, science toys, illuminated fountains tracing the reclaimed River Farset, Belfast’s oldest drinking fountain for horses and the occasional al fresco or tented event. J

Harland & Wolff Cranes G-2, Titanic Quarter, M94, www.harland-wolff.com. Wherever you go in the city there’s no escaping Samson and Goliath, two giant, move-able yellow cranes looming over what was once the world’s biggest shipyard. These engineering heavyweights stand at 96m and 106m high, 140m wide and were built in 1969 and 1974 respectively. Despite the demise of Belfast’s shipbuilding industry, they are still in use and have been preserved as historic monuments. Unfortunately only work-ers and the chosen few can take the lift to their summit for spectacular views across the city. So, for now, resign yourself to enjoying Belfast’s most iconic landmarks from ground level. EB

Obel D-1, 62 Donegall Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 3673, www.obel.co.uk. Belfast’s big new skyscraper is 85m high, has 28 storeys above ground (and two below for car parking) and is the island of Ireland’s tallest building. The name derives from the phrase ’Obelisk set in Old Belfast’. J

Queen’s University B-4, University Rd, M7, tel. (+44) (0)28 9097 5252, www.qub.ac.uk/vcentre. Designed by Charles Lanyon and opened in 1849, this gothic masterpiece is said to be based on Oxford University’s Magdalen College. Regarded as one of the best universities in the British Isles, fa-mous alumni include President of Ireland Mary McAleese, Nobel Prize-winning poet Seamus Heaney and scientist Lord Kelvin whose statue is in nearby Botanic Gardens. Pick up the free, informative walking tour leaflet at the Queen’s Welcome Centre where you can also buy a range of Irish and QUB-branded sou-venirs. Guided tours on request. Beside the Welcome Centre is the Naughton Gallery which houses regularly-changing art exhibitions. QOpen Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Term time Mon-Fri 09:00 - 21:00. YhSB

Transport House C-1, 102 High St. Late 1950s social-ist realism meets post-war Soviet art at the NI HQ of the Transport & General Workers Union (TGWU). The striking façade features a huge mural depicting giant marching men, an airplane and a ship - each representing Belfast’s engineer-ing heyday. Some like it, others loathe it. Either way, it could do with a good clean. J

Cathedrals St. Anne’s Cathedral C-1, Lower Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 8332, www.belfastcathedral.org. Dating back to 1776, the original St. Anne’s Church was demolished in 1903

making way for a new Hiberno-Romanesque-style Cathedral of Belfast. The foundation stone was laid in 1899 and the cathedral built in five stages across two centuries. The West Front, featuring Ireland’s largest Celtic cross, was completed in 1927 and dedicated to the victims of World War I. Though dedicated to St. Anne, Mother of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Cathedral was originally named after Lady Anne Hamilton, wife of the founder of the original Parish Church. The Anglican Ca-thedral often holds inter-church services and past visitors have included Royalty and Heads of State. It is also the burial place of Unionist MP Lord Carson, regarded as the founding father of the NI state. The Cathedral was extensively refurbished in 1998 and, in 2007, a stainless steel ’Spire of Hope’ was added to the roof, rising 72m from the ground and providing Belfast’s skyline with a shiny new landmark. Q Sunday services 10:00, 11:00, 15:30. Also open Mon-Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Jh

St. Peter’s Roman Catholic Cathedral A-2, St. Peter’s Square, off Falls Rd, M10, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 7573, www.stpeterscathedralbelfast.com. This neo-Gothic twin-spired Cathedral off Falls Road was built in 1866 for the city’s increasing Catholic population. The building was designed in 1860 by Father Jeremiah McAuley, a trained Belfast architect prior to entering Orders, and completed in 1866. Its magnificent twin spires were added in 1886 and dominate West Belfast’s skyline. The tower holds a carillon of 11 bells and, following major restoration, the cathedral now boasts fine examples of high Victorian Gothic decoration. Q Sun Mass 09:00, 11:00 and 19:00. Guided Tours 1st and 3rd Sun each month, 12:15 from Cathedral Hall. hWB

Parks, Gardens & MountainsBotanic Gardens B-5, Stranmillis Rd, M8, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 4902, www.belfastcity.gov.uk/parks. This meeting place for the city’s students, families and couples first opened in 1895. Its grounds are a profusion of colourful flowerbeds, expansive lawns and magnificent trees. Take a steamy jungle walk in the Tropical Ravine or marvel at the collection of outstanding tropical flora in the iron-and-glass Victorian Palm House. The Ulster Museum and a statue of Victorian scientist Lord Kelvin are located within the grounds. SB

Belfast Castle F-1, Antrim Rd, M1, tel. (+44) (0)28 9077 6925, www.belfastcastle.co.uk. Beneath Napo-leon’s Nose on Cave Hill nestles this 19th Century Scottish Baronial-style building presented to the city in 1934 by the philanthropic Shaftesbury family. Weekends are often awash with traditional white weddings, so wish the happy couple ’good luck’ then go explore the manicured grounds with their cute Cat Garden, stunning city views and children’s adventure playground. Apres stroll, indulge in high tea in the restaurant or rummage around the quaint antique shop. The interpretive centre contains info on the surrounding flora and fauna, Castle wedding pics from yesteryear and a roofcam affording close-up views of those city sights. Tours available LKYhNB

Belfast Zoo F-1, Antrim Rd, M1, tel. (+44) (0)28 9077 6277, www.belfastzoo.co.uk. Over 1200 animals populate the 55 acre Cave Hill setting of NI’s top fee-paying visitor attraction. Among the 140 species living in its natural woodland habitat are ’Big Cats’, primates, giraffes, zebras, elephants, penguins and sea lions. The Zoo also takes part in almost 100 international breeding programmes designed to save endangered animals from extinction. A Rainforest House, Bird Park, visitor centre and Zoovenir shop - as well as some of the city’s best views - add to a memorable day out. And lots of year-round fun and events give children (and adults!) a greater understanding

Explore more of the city and save money into the bar-gain with this 1-3 day tourist discount card. The Adult/Child Pass costs £6.50/4 (one day), £10.50/6 (two days) or £14/7.75 (three days) and includes unlimited bus and rail travel on all scheduled Metro, NI Railways and Ulsterbus services within a specially designated Greater Belfast Zone. Discounts on tours, attractions, souvenirs, eating out and lots more goodies are also part of the package. To find out more visit the Belfast Welcome Centre (p.5) or buy on-line at www.translink.co.uk. And look for the Y symbol on our listings for some of the participating companies.

Belfast Visitor Pass

off H-3, Upper Newtownards Rd, M4, off H-3, Upr Newtownards Rd, M4, tel. (+44) (0)28 9052 1362, www.niassembly.gov.uk. This 164-hectare public park provides an awesome setting for one of NI’s most iconic landmarks. Climb the steps for an up-close gaze at the imposing Portland Stone structure and some great city views.Parliament Building was opened by Edward, Prince of Wales in 1932 and is home to the restored NI Assembly. The building stands at the top of the mile-long Prince of Wales Avenue behind a statue of Lord Edward Carson (Unionist MP regarded as the founding father of the NI State). It is topped by the figure Britannia, and nearby is Reconciliation, a small water sculpture depicting a couple embracing across a divide.

Free guided tours run Mon-Fri 10:00 and 15:00 (hourly in July & Aug) beginning at the main entrance and taking in the Great Hall, Assembly and Senate Chambers, Com-mittee Room and Library. And on Mon from 12:00 and Tues from 10:30, all you part-time politicos can watch MLAs in action from the public gallery. A small souvenir and coffee shop complete your Stormont experience. The park has toilet facilities and a fantastic children’s play area. YhEB

Stormont Parliament Building

of the Zoo’s inhabitants. Some gradients are steep, and much of the Zoo is outdoors, so wear appropriate footwear and clothing.QDaily 10:00 - 16:00. Last admission 14:30. Adult £8, seniors and child (4-17) £4, U4 free. LKY NB

Cave Hill Country Park F-1, Antrim Rd, M1, www.belfastcity.gov.uk. Belfast’s most striking backdrop looms dramatically above the north of the city. Its craggy skyline rises 360m to the sheer cliff face of McArt’s Fort, named after 16th Century chieftain Art O’Neill. This prominent land-mark’s instantly recognisable silhouette is known locally as Napoleon’s Nose, and the hill itself is pockmarked with those eponymous caves. Marked trails, suitable for all walking levels (we suggest you start your energetic stroll from Belfast Castle), guide you to the summit for unparalleled views stretching all the way to the Mountains of Mourne - it’s as though a map of NI has been unfolded before your eyes. NB

Divis & Black Mountain (478m & 390m) off F-3, Divis Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9049 1002, www.ntni.org.uk. These twin peaks of limestone and basalt dominate West and North West Belfast’s skyline. A BBC Transmitter masts sits atop Divis whose Irish name translates as black back. Thanks to a transfer in ownership in 2004 from the Ministry of Defence (who used it for army training and, allegedly, surveillance) to the National Trust, Belfast’s highest peaks are now open to the public. The Trust has uncovered 2000 acres rich in biodiversity and archaeological interest, as well as constructing signs, paths and the Long Barn visitor centre. Walkers should be aware that this no Sunday stroll, though, and sudden changes in the weather can make conditions very treacherous. Ensure you come prepared- wear wellies and wet-weather gear and let someone know where you’re heading. To get there take a Metro bus, walk or drive to the Upper Springfield Rd. entrance, then trek to the summit for amazing views stretching as far as Scotland on a clear day. L NB

Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park off F-3, Upper Malone Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9027 0467, www.belfastcity.gov.uk/parks. This fantastic 48-hectare oasis, on the southern outskirts of the city, is a sweeping sea of rolling lawns and swaying trees and a masterclass in floral landscaping. Its main building, 19th Century Wilmont House, was taken over by the Dixons in 1919 and bequeathed to the ’citizens of Belfast’ by Lady Dixon upon her death in 1959. LKSB

Museums & GalleriesBelfast Barge D-2, Lanyon Quay, Belfast Waterfront, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 2555, http://www.laganlegacy.com/. Belfast’s maritime history is writ large on-board MV Confiance, the city’s ‘floating museum’. Inside this specially kitted out vessel you’ll find The Galley cafe restaurant and, below deck, info panels, touch screens and interactive displays revealing the city’s proud shipbuilding timeline. Find out about The Belfast Bottom, The Rat Killer and the Harland & Wolff-built SS Canberra. Then have a go at operating a model of one of the Samson & Goliath cranes. A unique location for a meticulously presented chronicle of what they call ‘the greatest story never told’. Look out for regular live music and other events in its small performance space, too. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Adult £4, conc. £3, family and combined ticket with Titanic Boat Tour £12. JHK

Belfast Exposed C-1, 23 Donegall St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 0965, www.belfastexposed.org. NI’s only dedicated photography gallery is a favourite haunt of the city’s art stu-dents and another cool creative space in the thriving Cathedral Quarter. The gallery runs contemporary community-based and international photography exhibitions and houses over half a

million archived images and negatives from 1983 to present day. Screenings and talks take place year-round. A new second gallery is dedicated to commissioning and collaborating new work in response to the archive. QOpen Tues-Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Jh

Golden Thread Gallery C-1, Switch Room, 84-94 Great Patrick St., tel. (+44) (0)28 9033 0920, www.gtgallery.org.uk. On the fringes of the Cathedral Quarter stands this red brick building whose ground floor houses one of Belfast’s coolest art galleries. The stark concrete interior lends itself perfectly to changing exhibitions of paintings, photography and installations. You’ll usually find students from the nearby art college contemplating the contemporary local pieces and scribbling a few inspirational notes. Find the Gallery 2mins walk from the back of St. Anne’s Cathedral and right beside Beggs & Partners bathroom showroom. QOpen Tues-Sat 10:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. Jh

P.L.A.C.E. B-2, 40 Fountain St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 2524, www.placearchitecturetours.org. Stop by this small exhibition space next to the Linen Hall Library and discover the changing face of Belfast city. A joint project between the Royal Society of Ulster Architects and Belfast City Council, P.L.A.C.E. stands for Planning, Landscape, Architecture, Community and Environment. Urban and rural designs and architectural plans


46 What to see 47What to see


D-1, Odyssey Com-p l ex , 2 Q u e e n’s Quay, te l . (+4 4) (0)28 9046 7700, w w w . w 5 o n l i n e .co.uk. NI’s only sci-ence and discovery centre has over 250 interactive exhibits across four dynamic exhibition areas, and a changing programme of workshops, events and exhibitions. Its location in the Odyssey Complex affords fantastic views across the Harland & Wolff ship-yard and Titanic Belfast. Great fun for young Einsteins and a learning experience at any age. Open Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Last admission 1hr before closing. Adults £7.90, 3-16 £5.90, Conc. £6.40, U3 free. Family and season tickets available. LKYEB

W5ceiling are worth a peek. And the adjoining Newspaper Library, houses NI’s largest collection of local and Irish newspapers, some dating back to the 1700s. Chapter One café and regular events and exhibitions will feed the body and mind. Internet access payable for non-members (ID required). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun. JRKh

Linen Hall Library C-2, 17 Donegall Square North, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 1707, www.linenhall.com. Founded in 1788, Belfast’s oldest library is a focal point for the city’s cultural community who love to leaf through the books or simply enjoy those fantastic views across the City Hall. If you’re into the history of the Troubles, seek out its unrivalled Northern Ireland Political Collection of books, posters, leaflets and propaganda. A gift shop, café, tours, readings and lectures all add to the library’s effortless charm. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JKYh

Public Record Office of Northern Ireland (PRONI) off D-1, 2 Titanic Boulevard, Titanic Quarter, tel. (+44) (0)28 9053 4800, www.proni.gov.uk. Established in 1923 following the formation of Northern Ireland, PRONI is the official place of deposit for NI records. Over three million official and privately deposited archives mainly, but not exclusively, relating to NI are held on its premises. Such a comprehensive collection means that, if you want to trace your NI roots, a visit to PRONI’s new state-of-the-art premises is a must. This cathedral-like, purpose-built Titanic Quarter HQ houses a spacious Public Research Room with suite of laptops and power points, and equally capacious Public Reading Room where ordered documents can be researched and copied. Thousands of documents of value to family historians include church records, valuation books and maps, letters, diaries and

are displayed, and locals can have their say on future develop-ments. A programme of lectures and events further enhances the experience, but the best thing is its architectural walking tours. Stop by or call ahead for the latest trips and learn so much more about Belfast’s built heritage. Q Tue-Sat 11:30 - 17:30, Thur until 19:30. Check ahead. for tour times and tickets J

Ulster Folk and Transport Museum L-3, 153 Bangor Rd, Cultra, Holywood, tel. (+44) (0)28 9042 8428, www.uftm.org.uk. Stroll through this outdoor collection of lovingly-restored 18th Century buildings and let the costumed guides bring history to life. The transport section houses an impressive collection of steam trains, railway

memorabilia, planes and horse carriages. Highlights include a DeLorean sports car, made in Belfast and star of the Back to the Future films. The Museum is 11kms east of the city centre on the main A2 Belfast to Bangor Road. The nearest rail station is Cultra Halt. Q Tue-Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Adults £8.50, child/conc. £5, U5 free. Family and individual museum tickets also available.LKYEB

Ulster Museum B-5, Botanic Gardens, Stranmillis Rd, M8, tel. (+44) (0)28 9038 3000, www.nmni.com/um. This eye-catching £17m hybrid of 1960s concrete and neo-classical architecture, features a 23m high atrium, and three Zones across four levels. As you navigate the glass and steel walkways, keep an eye on the Window on Our World gallery where iconic objects from each Zone - including a 6m long Edmontosaurus dinosaur skeleton - further fuel the imagina-tion. Then spend the day exploring those History, Art and Nature Zones, where a bona fide Egyptian mummy, Spanish Armada gold and Peter the Polar Bear are among the myriad of attractions. The Gallery of Applied Art is said to house the best collection of its kind in the world outside London’s V&A. And other highlights include the impressive collection of Fine Art and costumes, and an exhibit on The Troubles. Children are positively encouraged to get up close and interac-tive with exhibits in the Discovery areas. And everyone can discover their own treasures at the gift shop and enjoy lunch in the ground floor restaurant overlooking Botanic Gardens.QTues-Sun 10:00 - 17:00. HKWYhSB

Libraries & ArchivesCentral Library and Newspaper Library C-1, Royal Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9050 9150, www.ni-libraries.net. This red sandstone and black granite building was opened in 1888 - the same year Belfast achieved city status. The grand staircase and first floor Reading Room with fine domed

War Memorial Gallery C-1, 21 Talbot St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 0392, www.niwarmemorial.org. This small exhibition space near St. Anne’s Cathedral recalls the rav-ages of WW2 - both on the battlefield and during the Belfast Blitz. Artwork features strongly and attention is drawn to NI’s wartime links with the USA. Indeed, items from the gallery’s collection on the US Army are on display to mark the 70th anniversary of the arrival of the GIs in 1942. A bronze sculpture depicts half li fesize figures of a mother guiding her child through the ruins of Belfast on the morning after the blitz of 15 April 1941. Soldiers’ artefacts are also on display alongside uniform-clad mannequins, shiny medals, propaganda posters and pieces of anti-aircraft shells. The most evocative exhibit, however, is a revolving reel naming each of the 1000 men, women and children who died during the Belfast Blitz. A WW2 war veteran is often on hand, so stop for a chat to learn more about the role Belfast played in this pivotal period of world history. QOpen Mon-Fri 10:30 - 16:30. Jh

Belfast Blitz Memorial Plaque C-1, 124 Royal Ave, cnr. Belfast Telegraph. On the corner of the Bel-fast Telegraph building, a small section of pockmarked stone provides a tangible reminder of the 1941 Belfast Blitz. Over 100 German Luftwaffe planes bombarded the unprepared city on April 15, killing 900 people and injuring a further 2,500. A lone plaque on the stone tells how the newspaper published ’without interruption’. J

Northern Ireland in WW2

The Big Fish aka Salmon of Knowledge: A 10m long, erm, fish, whose shiny blue and white ceramic scales depict moments in Belfast’s history. Find it at the Lagan Weir, near the Obel, Titanic Boat office and departure point.

Ring of Thanksgiv-ing: Meet Belfast’s ta l l es t res id en t , a 15m high steel woman stand ing on a bronze globe and holding a ring representing peace and reconciliation - a familiar theme throughout the city. The work is inspired by Dallas’s Thanks-giving Square and towers ove r th e River Lagan, a short walk from the Bel-fast Waterfront.

Waterfall of Souvenirs: A 5m high ceramic waterfall cascading down the Europa Buscentre and bypassed daily by throngs of commuters. Be one of the few to stop and contemplate its locally themed mosaic.

The Speaker: At the front of Custom House, in an area once dubbed Belfast’s Speakers’ Corner, stands this aptly-named lifesize bronze statue. The Square’s sur-rounding copper lights continue the theme with their nickname the ’Hecklers’.

Spirit of Belfast: Unveiled in Sept. 2009, this large-scale steel structure looms large in Cornmarket, where a bandstand once stood. The four interlocking rings sit at the heart of the city centre’s pedestrianised shop-ping area, and have been designed to reflect Belfast’s erstwhile shipbuilding and linen industries. All good and well, but we prefer to call it the Belfast Scribble.

RISE: Belfast’s newest - and largest - sculpture com-prises two white steel spheres, one within the other, designed to symbolise the sun rising on a new, vibrant city. Clearly visible from the M1 and Westlink, the 37.5m high and 30m wide eyecatcher is known by locals as the Balls on the Falls. Personally we prefer to see it as an homage to our recent golfing greats McDowell, McIlroy and Clarke. Fore!

Public art (and not a mural in sight)

photographs. And PRONI’s extensive website has information on how to research your family history, its searchable online resources including 19th Century Street Directories, the Ulster Covenant and Wills. The eCatalogue is updated regularly, and PRONI’s on-line guide to Church records provides details on surviving historic parish registers for NI. PRONI staff cannot undertake research for you but can help and advise with the process. Use of facilities is free and includes a small cafe. Look out, too, for the atrium’s impressive collection


49WEST BELFAST & SHANKILL48 What to see


In a part of Belfast where two cultures collide, tourism bod-ies are working together to revitalise the area and make it visitor-friendly. Lots of tourists want to see for themselves the recent political history of this divided city and, in doing so, are often surprised at just how close these two communities sit... the Unionist Shankill and Nationalist Falls side-by-side, divided only by a Peace Line. With both sides making a concerted effort to attract visitors, it’s worth taking time out from the main attractions to visit these vibrant areas. Hop off the Open Top Bus or take a Metro bus or Black Taxi and explore at your leisure.

Falls Road F-2/3. M10 Bi-lingual street signs and fluttering Irish flags are the first things visitors often notice when they walk along the Falls. The area is becoming known as the Gaeltacht Quarter, with many shops and businesses offering Irish-lan-guage service and accepting Euros. Of the road’s many histori-cal and political murals, the most photographed is on the side of the Sinn Fein offices and features IRA hunger striker Bobby Sands. For tourist info visit www.visitwestbelfast.com.

Clonard Monastery F-2, Clonard Gardens, off Falls Rd., M10, tel. (+44) (0)28 9044 5950, www.clonard.com. Buil t in 1911 in early French Gothic-style, and boast-ing a 6m-wide stained-glass rose window, this imposing church and monaster y is home to the Redemptorists. This Catholic movement was founded in Italy in 1732 and its story is depicted in floor

and ceiling mosaics. The interior also features red granite, Portland stone and marble columns. The crypt was used as a WW2 air-raid shelter and contains the bodies of over 20 priests - one of them the architect’s son. Each June Clonard Church hosts a nine-day Festival of Faith when 15,000 daily pilgrims pray at the shrine of Our Mother of Perpetual Help. It is a spectacular sight and well worth a visit if you’re in town. Outside this time, the Church is also used as an impressive backdrop for occasional music performances. Q Sun Mass 07:00, 09:00, 11:00, 12:30.

Conway Mill F-2, 5-7 Conway St, M10, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 6452, www.conwaymill.org. West Belfast evolved as country people moved to the city to work in its 32 mills. Though many have gone, this imposing 19th century linen mill remains, and today houses an art gallery with regular exhibitions from local artists’ studios. The Irish Republican History Museum has been set up by a local community group and consists of arte-facts and archive material from former prisons. The Museum is open Tues-Sat 10:00-14:00 or on request for group tours. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich off F-3, 216 Falls Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9096 4180, www.culturlann.ie. First stop for all tourists has to be this newly extended three-story land-mark where the Irish language plays a central role in culture and the arts. Housed in a former Presbyterian church and named after two 19th Century protago-nists of the Irish language revival, the centre was established in 1991 and has a restaurant, theatre, art gallery, book & gift shop and monthly céilí (traditional Irish music and dancing sessions). Culturlann provides the focal point for August’s West Belfast Festival and is also the official West Belfast Tourist Information Point. KWY

City Cemetery off F-3, Falls Rd, M10, www.belfastcity.gov.uk/citycemetery. Complete with bell and cast iron fountains, this Victorian cemetery was opened in 1869 as Belfast’s first cross-denominational burial ground. In 1916 sec-tions were set aside for the city’s Jewish community and the burial of deceased sailors and soldiers. The war connections continue with a monument to those killed in the 1941 Belfast Blitz and a Memorial Cross in honour of locals killed in action in WW2. The cemetery is the city’s largest with around 250,000 burials and, curiously, a sunken wall dividing Protestant and Catholic plots. Many of Belfast’s prominent figures from its industrial, religious and political past are buried here including Viscount Pirrie, former Lord Mayor and controller of Harland & Wolff shipyard during Titanic, Sir Edward Harland, former MP, Mayor and one of the shipyard’s founders and Daniel Joseph

1. Divis Tower2. St. Peter’s Cathedral3. International Wall4. Falls Remembrance

Garden5. Conway Mill6. Bobby Sands Mural7. Clonard Monastery

8. Royal Victoria Hospital9. Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich10. Rise Sculpture11. James Connolly Plaque

12. City Cemetery13. Bog Meadows14. Falls Park15. Milltown Cemetery

C-1, 43a Rosemary St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 1901, www.rbgbelfast.com. Down a wee lane be-side Rosemary Street Church nestles this cavern-like art space featuring work from local or locally-based photographers, painters and sculptors. Images and artwork depicting the Troubles sit alongside those re-flecting today’s exuberant Belfast - and all the pieces are for sale and searchable on the on-line archive. Call in, browse the latest exhibit and grab yourself a real talking-point souvenir.QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Jh

Oct-Nov Exhibition: The Light of Other Days/Solas Ó Ré EileTaken over the last 30 years, the photographs of Jim Maginn combine formal and documentary portraits of some of the major figures in the field of Irish traditional music. Choosing to celebrate the lives of his subjects, Maginn has captured many of the last of this generation of musicians, some now gone, who kept the music alive before the folk revival of the 1960s secured its future. A series of talks and workshops by Jim Maginn will ac-company the exhibition.

Red Barn Gallery

of artwork, including a large-sale John Hewitt poem, display of ’paper’ scrolls in porcelain and several pieces by renowned local artist Rita Duffy. Paid parking is via the main Odyssey car park with a short walk to PRONI and Translink also run a Metro Bus service to the area. Children U14 must be accompanied by a responsible adult. Photo ID required. No appointment neces-saryQOpen Mon-Wed & Fri 09:00 - 16:45, Thu 10:00 - 20:45. HRLKWh

Experience a unique journey into the past. Don’t just see the murals...hear them. Friendly and knowledgeable guides take you on an unforgettable journey into the most recent conflict in Irish history as they interpret the stories behind the world famous Belfast murals. Tel. (+44) (0)7846 687085, www.belfastmuraltours.com.

Belfast Mural Tours

Bus, Car & Walking Tours Belfast City Sightseeing Bus Tour C-1, Castle Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 1321, www.belfastcitysightsee-ing.co.uk. This open-top bus takes a 90min, 8km round-trip along some of the city’s most impressive and evocative sights and includes 21 hop-on/hop-off points. Starting at Castle Place, the tour dips into the Titanic Quarter and (until 14:00) glides past Stormont before heading West to the Shankill and Falls Roads. The return leg passes through the sedate Queen’s Quarter, before heading back to base. The commentary is as entertaining as it is enlightening, with the guides cracking Troubles-related jokes only a local could get away with. QDept. 10:00 - 16:30. £12.50/10.50, 4-12 £6.50, family (2+3) £31, U4 free. Y

Belfast Photographic Tours tel. (+44) (0)28 9070 5525, (+44) (0)7791 025778, www.belfastphototours.co.uk. Capture Belfast and NI’s finest sights and learn how to take better photos in the process. Walking, half & full day and bespoke tours available. Equipment and transport provided.

Belfast Walking Tours C-2, Belfast Welcome Centre, 47 Donegall Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 6609, www.gotobelfast.com. Take Shanks’ Pony (’shanks’ being your legs) on several specialised city tours, including Literary, Art, Music, Pub, Food, Ghost and CS Lewis. For more details visit the Belfast Welcome Centre (p.5). Y

Titanic & City Bus Tours C-2, dept. beside Victoria Square, Chichester St, tel. (+44)(0)28 9032 1912, www.titanicbustours.com. This live guide hop-on, hop-off open top bus tour journeys from the city centre to Titanic Quarter, before returning via Dee St and on to West Belfast and the Queen’s Quarter’s sites and attractions. Each circuit takes 90min and tickets last 48hrs, so jump off at any of the 17 stops for a closer inspection of some of the city’s most interesting neighbourhoods. Look out for the eye-catching black Titanic buses emblazoned with nautical portholes. Q Dept. 09:45 - 16:00 at least every 30mins. £12.50/10.50, 2+3 £31.

DeLorean Tours & Exhibition B-2, Spires Mall, Assem-bly Buildings, cnr. Howard St and College Sq (opp Jurys Hotel), tel. (+44) (0)7888 685206. As tours go, they don’t get much more head-turning than this. An authentic DeLorean sports car transports you through the city and on to the original car factory and home of creator John DeLorean. The star of the Back to the Future movie was built just outside Belfast and the story behind this iconic car is as colourful as it is cautionary. Back at its Spires Mall base, you can view an exhibition, buy DeLorean, Irish, Guinness and Titanic gifts and, for £5.95, have your photo taken in the car. Talk about a trip back in time. J


51NI HIGHLIGHTS & HIDDEN GEMS50 WEST BELFAST & SHANKILL


With acres of beautiful scenery and a sprinkling of historic attractions, here’s the best this wee nook has to offer. Small enough to explore in a few days, it’s time to hit the open road and see for yourself. TIC = Tourist Information Centre.

Download a detailed, interactive route map at the Cause-way Coast and Glens website. Or pick up a free copy at any TIC or by giving them a call on 7032 7720.

Ards Peninsula L/M-3, Ards TIC, 31 Regent St, Newtownards, Co. Down, tel. (+44) (0)28 9182 6846, www.ards-council.gov.uk. Stretching from the market town of Newtownards and separating the shores of Strangford Lough and the Irish Sea, this gently undulating landscape is a scenic mix of pretty villages, rugged seascapes and unspoilt coastline. Drive the lough-hugging Portaferry Rd from N’ards, stopping at magnifi-cent Mountstewart House and Gardens and the historic village of Greyabbey with its namesake Cistercian ruin, cute antique shops and home-cooking cafés, then take the short ferry trip from Portaferry to Strangford. Or discover the other side o f the Peninsula wi th i ts tradi t ion -a l seas ide s tops such as Donaghadee and M i l -l isle, and quirky Ballycopeland Windmil l. And, west o f the Lough, Comber town is equal l y pret ty, and home to Castle Espie Wetland Centre. Find out lots more at Ards TIC or (seasonally) Portaferry TIC.

Nor th Down Bangor TIC L-3, 34 Quay St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9127 0069, www.northdowntourism.com. Stretching along the Bel fast Lough shoreline, and spreading across 50sq miles, North Down’s outdoor highlights include sandy beaches, countr y parks, quaint villages and historic sites. Bangor is the area’s main town and Holywood its stylish smaller sibling. Both are within easy reach of Bel-fast - with Bangor 12miles away and Holywood just six miles. Home to one of Ireland’s largest and Blue Flag Award-winning marinas, Pickie Family Fun Park and an abundance of seafront hotels and B&Bs, Bangor is a haven for sailors and daytrippers in search of some seaside japes. The town’s North Down Heritage Centre features the history of Bangor (one of only four Irish places on the 13th Century Mappa Mundi map), the life of Irish songwriter Percy French and a programme of year-round events and exhibitions. The nearby village of Groomsport is also worth a detour, with its charm-ing seaside setting and Cockle Row thatched fishermen’s houses.

Since the onset of the Troubles in 1971, many Nation-alist (Catholic) and Loyalist (Protestant) communities throughout Northern Ireland have been divided by Peace Walls. These large stone and steel construc-tions were designed to protect neighbourhoods from sporadic attacks and retain a sense of peace and protection. Of the city’s walls, West Belfast’s sections are the most visited. You can cross from one side to the other via access roads at Lanark Way (F-2) and Northumberland Street (A-1). And the best place to photograph contemporary artwork - and add your dawbs to the walls - is along the Shankill side of Cupar Way, off Lanark Way. These roads close in times of heightened tension, which may well be the case during the summer marching season. Otherwise, it’s safe - nay positively encouraged - to make the trip to Bel-fast’s biggest, and most infamous, outdoor art gallery.

Peace Walls

Jaffe, a linen merchant and builder of Belfast’s first synagogue. Former Belfast Lord Mayor Tom Hartley is an expert historian on the cemetery and runs occasional tours. Find out more at An Culturlann.

Milltown Cemetery off F-3, 546 Falls Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 9061 3972. This 1872 Roman Catholic cemetery is a must-see in anyone’s modern history tour of Belfast. Its entrance features a Victorian Romanesque gateway and large Celtic cross adorned with Bibli-cal scenes. Inside, the Republic Plot has several high-profile IRA graves, including 1981 hunger striker Bobby Sands, and Mairéad Farrell, killed by the SAS in Gibraltar in 1988. A vast

expanse of green space is the unmarked burial site of over 80,000 victims of the 1918 pandemic flu.

West Belfast Taxi Associa-tion (TaxiTrax Tours) B-1, 35a King St. (behind CastleCourt), tel. (+44) (0)28 9031 5777, www.wbta.net. These London-style Black Hackney cabs arrived in West Belfast at the height of the Troubles and provided an invaluable hop-on, hop-off service when regular schedules were severely disrupted. Though the Troubles are a thing of the past, the black taxis remain and

are very much a part of the local community. Driven and guided by a native in the know, TaxiTrax offer Wall Murals, Historical, Political, Titanic and Belfast Landmarks Tours. City centre hotel pick-ups can be arranged to ensure a hassle-free adventure. Q 90min Belfast City tours. £10pp, min 3 people.

Shankill Road F-2. M11 The Shankill dates back to the Stone Age and is Belfast’s oldest settlement. Shankill Road was named in 1831 after the Gaelic Sean Cill meaning Old Church. Today it is a bustling street with shops, snack stops, the Spectrum Centre and the Shankill Memorial Garden. Take a couple of hours to explore its Peace Walls and murals resplend-ent with Union Jacks and tributes to the Royal Family. One mural of note, beside the Rex Bar, depicts Unionist MP Edward Carson leading the signing of the 1912 Ulster Covenant which opposed Irish Home Rule and was also signed by close to half a million men and women. This year marks its centenary, and you can view the document, and search it online, at PRONI (p.47).

Mural showing Edward Carson signing the Ulster Covenant

Rise sculpture aka the Balls on the Falls

Causeway Coast & Glens 11 Lodge Rd, Col-eraine, Co. Antrim, tel. (+44) (0)7032 7720, www.causewaycoastandglens.com. Regarded as one of the world’s great coastal roads - and right up there with South Africa’s Garden Route and California’s Pacific Highway - the Causeway Coastal Route is an absolute must for any visitor to Ireland - north or south. The recently signposted journey begins on the fringes of Belfast; fol-low the M5 before veering off to begin your coastal hug, passing by Carrickfergus’s magnificent Norman Castle and detouring into the hidden gem that is Islandmagee. The Route continues its dramatic journey edging the Irish Sea and taking in charming towns and villages such as Glenarm, Cushendun and the breathtaking Torr Head.A fur ther detour through the Glens of Antrim unveils emerald hills, rushing waterfalls and woodland walks. The world famous Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Bushmills Distillery and Dunluce Castle make a mighty foursome as you continue along the North Antrim Coast. Stop off for tea at Portrush or Portstewart then continue to Limavady and the beautiful Roe Valley before ending your journey in the vibrant city of Derry. Take a day or two to fully explore the sights, myths and legends that make up this unique landscape... there are some lovely places to stay en route.

Giant’s Causeway rocks

Mount Stewart, Ards Peninsula

Giant’s Causeway Visitor Centre


52 NI HIGHLIGHTS & HIDDEN GEMS 53NI HIGHLIGHTS & HIDDEN GEMS


silly with the magnificent Slieve Donard Hotel & Spa, gleaming new promenade and Royal County Down Golf Club wi thin eyesight of brassy amusement arcades and chintzy B&Bs. Don’t miss nearby Silent Valley and Spelga Dam reservoirs set amid stunning scenery - and Tollymore and Castlewellan Forest Parks - the latter home to what was, until relatively recently, the world’s largest maze (pic). Coastal towns and villages Ardglass, Dundrum, Annalong and Kilkeel combine to create a beautiful coastal journey that makes you realise quite what a wonderful country this is.

Armagh City Armagh TIC, 40 English St, tel. (+44) (0)28 3752 1800, www.visitarmagh.com. Armagh is Ireland’s oldest city and its ecclesiastical capital, with the spires of St. Patrick’s Church of Ireland and Catholic Cathe-drals dominating the skyline. Patrick built his first church on the site of the Church of Ireland Cathedral way back in 445AD and declared Armagh the home of Christianity in Ireland. The Catholic Cathedral’s site was said to be chosen prophetically when our saintly hero saved a fawn from capture and carried it to safety on the hill.Todays Armagh retains strong religious links and is also a city of historical monuments, museums and heritage sites. Striking Georgian buildings overlook the emerald green Mall and nearby winding streets reveal cute cafes and shops as well as high street names.Find out more about the city’s Palace Stables, St. Patrick’s Trian, Navan Centre, Armagh Museum, Planetarium and other Orchard County attractions by getting in touch with the Tourist Information Centre. A great daytrip option.

Fermanagh Lakelands I-4, Fermanagh TIC, Wellington Rd, Enniskillen, tel. (+44) (0)28 6632 3110, www.fermanaghlakelands.com. NI’s most tranquil county is a stunning landscape of silvery lakes, green fields and verdant forests. Bustling Enniskillen is the perfect place to drop anchor before, during or after navigating the magnificent lakelands or

Erne-Shannon waterway. Try to see the pretty town of Belleek - famous for its pottery, Marble Arch Caves - complete with glistening stalactites and cascading waterfalls, and Castle Coole - an 18th Century mansion set in a landscaped park and owned by the National Trust. We’re merely dipping our toes into Fermanagh’s lakeland setting so, to find out more about this amazing waterworld, ask for the region’s tourism brochures at Enniskillen’s TIC.

Lisburn City L-3, Lis-burn Tourist Informa-tion Centre, 15 Lis-burn Square, tel. (+44) ( 0 ) 2 8 9 2 6 6 0 0 3 , www.visitlisburn.com. Lisburn was granted city status by the Queen in 2002. Situated just 10 miles south of Belfast, it is regarded by many as NI’s fastest growing metropolis. Day trippers and overnighters can enjoy a revitalised cultural and historical edge... and some of the best shopping in NI. Bow Street Mall, gentrified Lisburn Square and, a short drive away, Sprucefield Shopping Centre form the city’s main shopping areas. Lisburn’s rebranded Historic Quarter dates back to the 17th Century and its rebuilt streetscape remains pretty much unchanged to this day. It is home to the Irish Linen Centre & Lisburn Museum where interactive exhibitions focus on the Irish linen industry and local history. There’s also a very popular on-site cafe and gift shop.The Island Arts Centre is a shiny, state-of-the-art cultural centre with eye-catching outdoor water jet and sculpture trail. Sports fans can have a flutter at Down Royal Raceourse, and Drumbo Greyhound Stadium or check out local football team Lisburn Distillery at New Grosvenor Stadium (beside the greyhound track).

water sports, horse riding and even micro-light flying on offer for adventurous types. While more sedate souls can indulge in a spot of walking, angling and golf. For the less energetic, four signposted scenic driving routes cover theNorth, South, East and Central Sperrins. Each 50-90 mile circular drive takes in this undulating landscape via market towns, manor homes and verdant wooded glens. It’s a fantastic way to discover the Sperrins at your own pace, stopping off to explore historic sites and Ice Age carved landscapes stretching all the way from the Donegal border to the edge of the River Bann. Pick up these handy maps, with lots of info on visitor attractions en route, at any Tourist Information Centre. Or get in touch with Sperrins Tourism and order your personal copy.

Mourne Country L-4, Newcastle TIC, 10-14 Central Promenade, tel. (+44) (0)28 4372 2222, www.arma-ghanddown.com. NI’s main mountain range may not be the Rockies, but what it lacks in stature it makes up for in picture-postcard beauty. The Mournes extend from the seaside town of Newcastle in the north to the quaint village of Rostrevor in the south. Man-made stone walls criss-cross green fields as Slieve Donard (NI’s highest mountain) looks down from its 852m granite peak. Designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Mournes are in line to be-come NI’s first National Park. Newcastle is the area’s main urban attraction, and the inspiration behind songwriter Percy French’s Where The Mountains of Mourne Sweep Down To The Sea (ask nicely, and a local may sing you a snippit). Long the summer destination of local holidaymakers, the town moves seamlessly from the sublime to the

Cruising on Fermanagh’s Lakelands

Armagh City’s cathedral skyline

Castlewellan Peace Maze - one of the world’s largest

Road through the Sperrins

All you need toknow about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

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Sperrins Sperrins Tourism, The Manor House, 30 High St, Moneymore, Co. Londonderry, tel. (+44)(0)28 8674 7700, www.sperrinstourism.com. One of the great, undiscovered regions of Northern Ireland has to be the Sperrin Mountains. Stunningly bleak and stretching 64 miles, the Sperrins are often overshadowed by glamorous siblings such as the Mournes and Causeway Coast. But it is exactly this aspect of unchartered territory that makes a trip through this widespread mountain range such a memorable experience. Imagine a rolling Irish wilderness and you’re close to conjuring up the Sperrins. Cycling,


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Peadar O Donnells & Gweedore Bar J-2 59-63 Waterloo St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 2318, www.peadars-gweedorebar.com. Crammed with locals, tourists and trad pub ephemera, these adjoining bars are undoubtedly Derry’s most lively down-home drink-ing and live music dens. Peadar’s is all about traditional Irish music, while The Gweedore attracts indie kids, Goths and rockers keen to shake their thang or adopt an air of sophisticated disaffection against the crashing backdrop of live and loud sounds. Upstairs the nightclub plays the latest tunes for those who fancy a bit of an unpretentious boogie. Nights out don’t get much better than this. Q Mon 11:00 - 01:00, Tue-Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:30 - 24:00. JE

Eat, drink and be Derry

Northern Ireland’s second, and Ireland’s fourth, largest city is small enough to explore on foot yet crammed with history and culture. With the opening of the Peace Bridge and re-emergence of historic Ebrington Barracks as a new public Square, the city has stretched across the River Foyle for new generations of locals and visitors to enjoy. To get the most from your stay, here is our Derry City Top Ten.

Derry - A Brief History6th Century AD: First mention of a monastery, but settlement is believed to stretch back many more centuries. The Irish name Doire, from which Derry derives, means Oak Grove. The site of the settlement was seen as a strategically important high point overlooking the River Foyle.

1609-1613: After the de-population following the Nine Years War and the Flight of the Earls, the Plantation of Ulster begins. Derry is renamed Londonderry due to the involvement of the Guilds of London in its development. With its imposing walls and new Protestant Cathedral (1633), Londonderry was intended to be a bastion of British power.

1688-1689: Siege of Derry. In defiance of Protestant Governor Lundy, later branded a traitor by Unionists, thirteen Protestant Apprentice Boys close the gates on the Catholic King James. A bitter 105 day siege ensues with great loss of life.

1968 onwards: Outbreak of The Troubles in Northern Ireland, with Derry at its centre. Civil Rights demands by the city’s Catholic majority lead to violence, with Bloody Sunday, on 30 January 1972, seeing 13 unarmed Catholic civilians shot dead by British Paratroopers, an event which remains emotive to the present day. During this time, the city sees a great exodus of the Protestant population to the East of the river.

1990 onwards: The city enjoys a renaissance and return to normality quicker than most other areas of NI.

1995: President Clinton visits Derry City.

1998: Following his central role in the Good Friday Agreement, Derry politician John Hume is co-recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize.

2010: The City of Derry is awarded the prestigious inaugural title of 2013 UK City of Culture.

Guildhall, Derry City

1. NAME THAT TOWN. Derry, Londonderry, Stroke City, the Maiden City, Legenderry: what’s in a name? Most locals use Derry, but many Protestant Unionists prefer Londonderry. The original name of Derry came from Doire, the Irish for ‘oak grove surrounded by bog’. London was added in the 17th Century when King James I’s Plantation

of Ulster reapportioned land from Irish Catholics to newly settled English Protestants. London’s powerful trades guilds invested in the settlement, hence the new name. Maiden City refers to the impregnable walls which held out during the 1688-89 Siege of Derry. And Stroke City is local radio presenter Gerry Anderson’s neutral solution to the political impasse. Legenderry is the latest label inspired by its 2013’s UK City of Culture status.

2. WALK THE WALLS. Derry is the Dubrovnik of the North and Ireland’s most complete walled city. Over 1.5kms of walls encircle the centre, providing a unique walkway and affording panoramic views of the surrounding area. These impressive 17th Century stone fortifications can be accessed by clearly signposted steps, with information plaques guiding you through the city’s historic heart and often turbulent past.


56 Derry/lonDonDerry 57DERRY/lonDonDERRY


Built in 1873 and extended in 1936, the Scottish forti fied baronial styled Apprentice Boys Memo-rial Hall & Museum is located by the city Walls. The Hall is a focal point for the annual Apprentice Boys Commemorations of the Siege of 1688-1689, the ‘Shutting of the Gates’ in December and the ‘Relief of Londonderry’ in August.

The Hall’s Museum is dedicated to the history of the Siege of Londonderry 1688-1689 and the history, heritage and commemorative role of the Apprentice Boys of Derry. It contains the finest collection of rooms for the use of the country’s three Loyal Orders. The Hall is the Head Quarters and seat of the General Committee of the Apprentice Boys Association which meets regularly in the Apprentice Boys Room.

The building also hosts very fine Orange Lodge and Royal Black Preceptory rooms. It is in the MEM where ‘Lundy’ is constructed each year, ready for ceremonial burning in December as part of the ‘Shutting of the Gates’ commemorations.

Affectionately known as The MEM, the Hall was a central meeting place for young people from all over the City in the swinging 1960s, though declined in use as the safety of the area was uncertain during the period of conflict.

In recent years the MEM has started a slow return to greater use and wider access through the work of the annual Apprentice Boys Maiden City Festival which also uses may other venues around and within the historic Walls.

The Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall remains an impor-tant place for Protestants within the Derry City Council area, and represents a meeting point in Londonderry for Apprentice Boys and friends from all over the UK, Ireland and beyond.

More info on the Apprentice Boys of Derry Association and the history of the Hall, including a virtual tour, can be found on www.apprenticeboys.co.uk. And you can also find out more about the history of the Apprentice Boys, the annual commemorations and download a map & trail around the historic walls at www.siegehe-roestrail.com. All these sites and much more can be found by starting at www.maidencityfestival.com.

Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall5. GET CULTURED. In 2013 Derry will become the UK’s first City of Culture, and things are already hotting up among the arts fraternity. The Millennium Forum (Newmarket St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 4455), Playhouse (Artillery St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 1884), Nerve Centre (Magazine St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 0562) and Verbal Arts Centre (Bishop St. Within, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 6946) are the city’s main venues.

6. GO SHOPPING. Foyleside and Richmond Shopping Centres are both are within the city walls. Niche shops can be found in and around the Diamond, also home to Austins, the world’s oldest department store.

7. CELEBRITY WORSHIP. The Undertones, Phil Coulter, Dana, Josef Locke, D:Ream and Girls Aloud’s Nadine Coyle have each contributed to Stroke City’s musical legacy.

8. GORGE YOURSELF. The Exchange (Queen’s Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 7127 3990), Quaywest (Boating Club Lane, tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 0977), Cafe Del Mondo (Craft Village, tel. (+44) (0)28 7136 6877, Fiorentini’s Ice Cream Parlour (Strand Rd.) and Custom House (Queens Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 3366) are among the city’s coolest restaurants and cafes.

9. SINK A PINT. Peadar O’Donnell’s is a fantastic drinking den crammed with curios and ephemera, as befits an authentic Irish pub. And the adjoining Gweedore Bar provides a spiritual haven for hardcore, indie types (see listing p.56). The Metro (Bank Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 7401) is a contemporary bar/nightclub. Clubbers should head to Sugar (Shipquay St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 6017) and Earth (Strand Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 7136 0556).

10. GO TO SLEEP... The 4-star City Hotel (Queen’s Quay, tel. (+44) (0)28 7136 5800) and Tower Hotel (Butcher St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 1000) are both within the city walls. The Everglades (Prehen Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 7132 1066) 4-star, is a short taxi ride from town. As is the 3-star Ramada Da Vinci’s (Culmore Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 7127 9111) and The Waterfoot (Caw Roundabout, tel. (+44) (0)28 7134 5500). The 2-star Travelodge (Strand Rd, 0870 1911 733) is slap-bang in the city centre. The Saddler’s House and Merchant’s House are beautifully appointed B&Bs. While Derry City Independent Hostel (Gt. James St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7128 0542), and Paddy’s Palace (Asylum Rd, tel. (+44) (0)28 7130 9051) provide no nonsense, good fun, cheap accommodation.

For more information on all events, tours and accommodation, call into the Derry Visitor & Convention Bureau, 44 Foyle St, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 7284, www.derryvisitor.com.

3. TAKE A TOUR. Bus, boat, taxi and walking tours leave no historical stone unturned and no curious question unanswered. Bus tours take you through the centre, Catholic Nationalist Bogside and across the River Foyle’s two road bridges to the more mixed Waterside. Walking tours of the Bogside, site of the infamous Bloody Sunday and Free Derry Corner, bring this pivotal moment in modern history to life. Taxi tours provide similarly indepth commentaries. And the Foyle Cruiser tootles along the river at a sedate pace, with onboard commentary on the city’s maritime history.

4. GET HISTORICAL. The Tower Museum (tel. (+44) (0)28 7137 2411) has a permanent exhibition on Spanish Armada ship, La Trinidad Valencera and also offers a fascinating insight into the city’s often turbulent history. And you can touch that history at newly-renovated St. Columb’s Cathedral (tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 7313). Both are within the city walls.

J-2, Londonderry, tel. (+44) (0)28 7126 7313, www.stcolumbscathedral.org. Standing proudly within the Walls of Derry, St Columb’s Church of Ireland Cathedral was completed in 1633 and is the city’s oldest building. It is dedicated to St. Columba, the Irish monk who brought Christianity to the area in the 6th Century AD.The Cathedral is widely recognised locally, nationally and internationally for its active promotion of ecumenical and bridge-building activities. As such, this landmark building is held as a religious venue acceptable to all sections of the community. Much of the history and infinite spiritual value of the area is encapsulated within its walls. And a recent £4m renovation project has this elegant place of worship looking better than ever. Inside you’ll find many interesting memorials, stained glass windows and other items relating to the history of Londonderry. Visit its Chapter House Museum to see the “Promise Chalice” - sent to Londonderry in 1613 by the Honourable the Irish Society as a symbol of their promise to build a Cathedral in the new City.In the porch is the 270lbs mortar shell fired into the City by the Jacobite forces during the siege of 1689. It contained a document outlining terms of surrender which were refused by the Citizens. The siege lasted 105 days. Q Visitors: Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Morning Service daily at 10:30. Sun services: 08:00, 11:00, 16:00 (except July & Aug). Also 10:00 Family Service (4th Sun every month). Suggested voluntary donation £2pp. Guided tours avail-able. Rates on request. J

St. Columb’s Cathedral

View from Derry’s Walls


59Shopping58 Shopping


C-1, 65-67 Royal Ave, tel. (+44 (0)28 9031 4272, www.theirishlinenandgiftcentre.com. Belleek pottery, Galway Crystal and a fine range of Irish linen and knitwear make this a great place to seek out authentic and classy Irish gifts. Titanic and Guinness-inspired mementoes are also available alongside lots more green-gilded goodies for the folks back home... or your good self. Find it opposite the main entrance to CastleCourt Shopping Centre. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Y

The Irish Linen and Gift Centre FoodAunt Sandra’s Candy Factory G-3, 60 Castlere-agh Rd, M5, tel. (+44) (0)28 9073 2868, www.auntsandras.com. This history-steeped sweet shop has been serving natives and newcomers with its sugary confections since 1953. Today the original Aunt Sandra’s nephews, David and Jim Moore, continue the tradition and demonstrate their craft as children and adults look on with wide-eyed glee. Shamrock lollies, Belfast rock and chocolate macaroons are just some of the sticky souvenirs to tempt shoppers. Willy Wonka plays on the screen and the adjacent ice cream parlour implores you to pull up a chair and enjoy yet more diet-busting delights.Q Mon-Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. £. K

Co Couture C-2, 7 Chichester St, tel. (+44)(0)7888 899647, www.cocouture.co.uk. Award-wining local chocolatier Deirdre McCanny has crafted an exceptional sensory experience in this bijou basement shop. As soon as you enter, the smell of chocolate is nothing short of orgasmic. Her luxurious cocoa creations are melt-in-the-mouth gorgeous, and beautifully packaged in brown and gold-embossed boxes. Flavoured truffles, marshmallows and chocolate bars are among the must-have morsels. And a set of tables and chairs means you can sit and enjoy some heaven-sent hot chocolate. Q Tue-Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Also at St. George’s Market. J

Sawers B-2, Fountain Centre, 7a College St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 2021, www.sawersbelfast.com. This Aladdin’s Cave of local and global epicurean treats has been part of Belfast’s food scene for over one hun-dred years. I ts mind-boggling selection runs well into the 1000s, with a multitude of marinaded olives and seafood, artisan cheeses and chocolates, and a replete charcuterie tempting all you lovers of gourmet cuisine. Grab some tasty souvenirs, enjoy locally produced eats or order one of their gorgeous bespoke hampers. Ditch the diet and indulge in this delicious feast. QOpen Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:00. J

Gifts & SouvenirsCarroll’s Irish Gifts C-1, 2-6 Castle Place, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 8899, www.carrollsirishgifts.com. Irish paraphernalia, traditional gifts and other green-gilded good-ies are available at this city centre souvenir store. Part of the Ireland-wide chain, Carroll’s stocks enough big-name products - from clothing to collectables and chocolates to CDs - to keep the folks back home happy. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 19:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:30. JY

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Belfast’s city centre’s main shopping areas are Donegall Place and Royal Avenue facing the City Hall, radial streets off Cornmarket (C-2, off Royal Ave) and, heading south, the Lisburn Road. The city centre’s shopping malls are Victoria Square off Cornmarket and CastleCourt on Royal Avenue. If you want to explore smaller city centre outlets and craft shops, check out Spires Mall, the Fountain Centre, Queen Street and Smithfield Market. The small Queen’s Arcade also houses some fine jewellery, gift and bespoke clothing shops. For eclectic antiques and curios, head down Donegall Pass.

Shopping malls and marketsCastleCourt B/C-1, Royal Ave, tel. (+44) (0)28 9023 4591. This huge reflective glass building takes up a sizeable stretch of Royal Avenue, Belfast’s main shopping drag, and brings together high street names, a food court and market-style stalls all under one handy rainproof roof. Debenhams, Gap and New Look head up the fashion faves, and other well-known

D-2, 12 East Bridge St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9043 5704, www.belfastcity.gov.uk/markets. Regarded as one of the UK’s finest food markets, St. George’s Food & Garden Market (Sat, 09:00 - 15:00) has around 250 stalls selling local and organic produce ranging from fresh fish to wild boar and smelly cheeses to Armagh apples. A market has existed on this site since 1604, and the elegant Victorian red brick and glass structure you see today is the culmination of a £4.3m renovation project.Inside, the cavernous space has a vibe about it that’s unique to the city. Locals mingle with tourists as live music plays and traders display their tantalising wares. Savour a couple of hours at this colourful smorgasbord and get your maw round some great tasting international cuisine and local grub. On Fridays, food gives way to the Variety Market (06:00-13:00) which, as the name suggests, is crammed with all manner of antiques, bric-a-brac, clothes and curios. Sift carefully and you might uncover a thing of rare beauty and value. This is where the real locals shop, and a visit gives you an insight into the shopping habits of some of the city’s most colourful characters. Totally unpretentious and worth an early morning potter before the high street stores open their doors. The Market is also open Sundays 10:00 - 16:00 as a combination of Fri and Sat markets and with an emphasis on arts and crafts. A free shuttle bus runs every 20mins between the city centre (outside Boots, Donegall Place or HMV, Castle Place) and the Market. Dept. Fri from 08:00; Sat from 09:00. JK

St. George’s Marketretailers include Laura Ashley, Exhibit and Boots. There’s a cute children’s play area for hyper kids and their weary parents, car-shaped buggies free to hire and, for adult drivers, a multi-storey car park looming large at the back. QOpen Mon-Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Thur 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. JLK

Fountain Street & Fountain Centre B-2. A good selec-tion of gift shops, gorgeous Sawers deli and a sprinkling of cafes and bars are clustered around this small pedestrianised area. Ride the escalator and get up close to a Hamburg-made 24-bell clock and, in finer weather, enjoy outdoor seating on the terrace surrounding the eponymous fountain. Look left and you’ll find SpaceCRAFT which sells and exhibits gorgeous local crafts from top notch designers. Eagle eyes will spot the specially crafted street lanterns complete with ’F’ insets. Nice touch. JK

Smithfield Market C-1, behind CastleCourt. Long the home to specialist and second hand shops, the ’new’ Smith-field Market was completed in 1986 after the old Victorian market was bombed in the ’70s. Step inside and explore wee units brimming with all manner of paraphernalia from comics to collectibles, army surplus to Irish souvenirs and cafes to camping equipment. It’s a bit dingy, but that’s all part of its charm. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JK

Spires Mall B-2, Church House, Wellington St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 2284, www.spiresbelfast.co.uk. Spires Mall occupies the ground floor of Church House, HQ of the Presbyterian Church in Ireland. Built in 1905 and refur-bished in 1992, this dark brick colossus features an ornately carved exterior and 40m-high belfry where twelve bells chime the hours and play the occasional hymn. The Mall houses Spires Café, Fairtrade shops and DeLorean Exhibition. QO-pen 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.JHK

Victoria Square C-2, www.victoriasquare.com. Bel-fast’s city centre retail experience has received a major shot of glamour with the opening of this shiny new shopping centre. The landmark building spans a substantial strip of Chichester Street, has several pedestrian access points and boasts a House of Fraser signature store and big glass dome with view-ing gallery. Over 90 more shops, an 8-screen Odeon cinema, restaurants, cafés, bars, salon and basement parking com-plete your wallet-emptying expedition. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Mon, Tue 09:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. JLKS

Fountain Centre’s quirky clock

Colourful mural at Smithfield Market

The Wicker Man C-1, 44-46 High St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 3550, www.thewickerman.co.uk. Show-casing and selling the work of over 150 Irish artists and craftspeople, this treasure trove is an absolute must for all you quality-conscious souvenir hunters. Perfumes, marble, pewter and pottery sit alongside paintings, jewellery and many other smaller items - with all price ranges covered. Check out the gorgeous Irish textiles and clothing, and feast your eyes on the small art gallery, and bodhrans (Irish drums - pronounced borons) suspended from the ceiling.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JY

JewelleryThe Steensons C-2, Bedford St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9024 8269, www.thesteensons.com. This family-owned jewel-lery shop oozes sophistication as befits its elegant bespoke and designer collections. Husband and wife team Bill and Christina Steenson work with precious gems and metals to create their much sought after contemporary pieces. And the addition of other local and European jewellers’ work has made this N. Ireland’s biggest gallery of its kind. If you like what you see, visit their workshop and visitor centre in Glenarm village on the Antrim Coast Road, en route to the Giant’s Causeway. And find their Belfast base close to the Ulster Hall. QOpen Mon-Sat 10:00 - 17:30, Thur until 19:00.


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B-2, 9b The Fountain Centre, College St, tel. (+44) (0)28 9032 9342, www.craftanddesign-collective.com. The Craft & Design Col lective has brought together Artist/Designer/Makers from across NI to create this innovative shop/gallery/exhibition area right in the city centre. Head up the Fountain Centre’s escalator and indulge in a dazzling choice of handmade pieces you’ll find nowhere else in town. From the modest to the more luxurious, and featuring everything from ceramics to stylish jewellery, fashion and interior accessories, Space CRAFT pro-vides a relaxing alternative to the high street mêlée... and gives you the opportunity to support local Artist/Designer/Makers. QOpen Mon-Sat 10:30 - 17:30. J

NOSTALGIA Fri 5 to Sat 27 Oc-toberThis exhibi tion showcases new ceramic works b y t w i n s i s -ters Claire and Karen G ibson. Claire’s work for the exhibition is i n f l u e n c e d by a r c h i t e c t u r e , wi th large coi l built forms remi-n iscent o f o ld c h i m n ey p o ts a c c e n t u a t e d with varying tex-tu res and th e use and contrast of colour. Karen’s work utilises forms that originate in the chemistry laboratory, selecting old-fashioned objects such as specimen jars, then casting, altering and adding imagery. Claire and Karen Gibson (aka Red Earth Designs www.redearthdesigns.co.uk) graduated from the University of Ulster in 1998, each with a Masters in Fine & Applied Art.

TWENTY TWELVE Fri 2 Nov to Sat 1 Dec Ar t ist/Designer/Makers were in -v i t e d to c r e a te one-off or limited edition pieces in response to the t i t l e T W E N T Y T W E L V E . T h e y were also asked to make a photo-graphic document of the pieces being made. These im-ages form part of the exhibition and wi l l be displayed a l o n g s i d e t h e pieces. Part of the Belfast Festival at Queen’s, the exhi-

bition is intended to both challenge and inform the public perception of Jewellery.

Space CRAFT be original! buy original!The Craft & Design Collective has created aninnovative focal point for the commissioning,exhibition, promotion and sale of Craft, Applied Artand Design, owned, managed and staffed byArtist/Designer/Makers themselves.

Shop Gallery

Exhibition Area

Further InformationT: +44 (0)28 9032 9342E: [email protected]: craftanddesigncollective.com

Space CRAFT9b The Fountain CentreCollege StreetBelfastBT1 6ET

Opening HoursMonday to Saturday10.30am to 5.30pm

GO UP THAT ESCALATOR!

craft & design collectiveRaising the Profile of Craft, Applied Art & Design

Supported by theCreative IndustriesInnovation Fund

CDC 6x9 ad 2010_CDC 6x9 27/11/2010 16:07 Page 1

If your idea of retail heaven is exploring some great in-dependent shops, a stroll down South Belfast’s Lisburn Road is worth a detour. Undoubtedly the most affluent retail area outside the city centre, this Queen’s Quarter stretch is the spiritual home for designer boutiques, art galleries and home accessories.Bespoke gifts, melt-in-the-mouth chocolates and relax-ing day spas are all there for the asking. And there’s also a grande assortment of cafés, bars and restaurants to ensure your shopping onslaught is enhanced by fine food, gourmet gifts and the occasional cocktail. Walk from the city centre and give yourself a few hours to fully explore the strip, then waft back to your boudoir armed with tissue-wrapped treats and be-ribboned bags a la Sex and the City. You go girl!

Shopping on the Lisburn Road

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66 Greater Belfast Map


Academy St. C-1Adelaide St. C-2/3Agincourt Ave. C/D-5Albert Sq. C/D-1Albion St. B-3Alfred St. C-2/3Amelia St. B-2Ann St. C-2Ann St. C-2, D-1Annadale Embankment C/D-5Apsley St. C-3Arthur St. C-2Ashborne Mews C-3Ashleigh Ave. A-5Balfour Ave. D-4Bank St. C-1Bankmore St. C-3Bedford St. C-2/3Berry St. C-1Blythe St. B-3 Botanic Ave. B/C-4Bradbury Pl. B-4Bridge End D-1Bridge St. C-1Bruce St. B-3 Brunswick St. B-2Callender St. C-2Camden St. B-4Carmel St. C-5Castle Lane C-2Castle Pl C-1/2Castle Pl. C-1/2Castle St. B/C-2Chapel Lane B-1Charlotte St. C-3

Chichester St. C-2Claremont St. B-4Clarence St. C-3Colenso Parade B/C-5College Gdns. B-5College Park Ave. C-5College Pk. C-4College Sq. B-2College St. B-2Cooke St. D-4Cornmarket C-2Corporation St. C-1Cromac St. C-3, D-2Cromwell Rd. C-4Cullingtree Rd. A-2Distillery St. A-3Divis St. A-1Donegall Pass C-3Donegall Pl. C-2Donegall Quay D-1Donegall Rd. A/B-4Donegall Sq. East C-2Donegall Sq. North C-2Donegall Sq. South C-2Donegall Sq. West C-2Donegall St. C-1Dublin Rd. B/C-3Dunbar Link. C-1Dunluce Ave. A-4Durham St. B-2East Bridge St. D-2Eglantine Ave. A/B-5Elgin St. D-5Elm St. C-3Elmwood Ave. B-4Erin Way C-3

Falls Rd. A-1/2Fitzroy Ave. C/D-4Fitzwilliam St. B-4Fountain St. C-2Franklin St. C-2Glengall St B-2Gloucester St. C-2Gordon St. C-1Grace St. C-2Gresham St. B-1Grosvenor Rd. A-2, B-2Gt. Victoria St. B-3Hamill St. B-2Hamilton St. C-2Hardcastle St. C-3Haymarket C-1High St. C-1Hill St. C-1Hope St. B-3Howard St. B/C-2Howard St. South C-3India St. C-4Ireton St. C-4James St. South C-2Joy St. C-2/3Jubilee Rd. A-4King St. B-1Lagan Bridge D-1Lindsay St. C-3Linenhall St. C-2/3Linfield Rd. B-3Lisburn Rd. A-5, B-4Little May St. C-2Lombard St. C-1Lower Crescent B-4Malone Ave. A-5

Malone Rd. B-5Marcus Ward St. C-3Maryville St. C-3May St. C/D-2McAuley St. D-3McClintock St. C-2/3McClure St. C-4Millfield B-1Montgomery St. C-2Mount Charles B-4Murray St. B-2North St. B/C-1Northumberland St. A-1Ormeau Ave. C-3Ormeau Bridge D-5Ormeau Embankment D-3/4/5Ormeau Rd. C-3, D-4,D-5Oxford St. D-2Peter’s Hill B-1Pottinger’s Entry C-1Queen Elizabeth Bridge D-1Queen St. B-2Queen’s Arcade C-2Queen’s Bridge D-1Queen’s Quay D-1Queen’s Sq. C/D-1River Terrace D-3/4Rosemary St. C-1Royal Ave. C-1Rugby Ave. C/D-4Rugby Rd. C-4/5Russell St. C-2Salisbury St. C-3Sandy Row B-3Servia St. A-2

Shaftesbury Ave. D-4Shaftesbury Sq. B-3Shankill Rd. A-1Station St. Flyover D-1Stewart St. D-3Stranmillis Embankment C/D-5Stranmillis Rd. B-5Sussex Pl. C-2Talbot St. C-1Tates Ave. A-5The Gasworks D-3Tomb St. D-1Ulsterville Ave. A-4University Ave. C/D-4University Rd. B-4/5University Sq. B-4University St. B/C-4Upper Arthur St. C-2Upper Crescent. B-4Upper Library St. B-1Upper Queen St. B-2 Ventry St. B-3Vernon St. C-4Victoria St C-1, D-2Waring St. C-1Wellesley Ave. A/B-5Wellington Pk. A/B-5Wellington Pl. B/C-2Wellington St. B/C-2Wellwood St. B-3 Westlink A-2/3, B-1William St. South C-2Windsor Ave. A-5Wolsley St. C-4York St. C-1

Street index for the Belfast city map on pp.64-65

Evening Performances at 8.00pm December 19th, 20th, 21st & 22nd 2012 December 26th, 27th, 28th & 29th 2012 January 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th 2013

Matinee Performances at 3.00pm December 22nd, 26th, 29th & 31st 2012 January 1st & 5th 2013

ADMISSION (seats can be reserved) Adult £8.00 (Concession £7.00) Groups of 10 + £7.00 per seat Groups of 100 + £6.00 per seat

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