Dublin In Your Pocket

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DUBLIN

Wonderful WicklowMountains and fountainsat Powerscourt Estate

Park LifeExploring the city’sfinest outdoor spaces

N°27dublin.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2012

Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY of Dublin In Your Pocket

August - September 2012dublin.inyourpocket.com

3Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

dublin.inyourpocket.com

Arriving 5

Getting Around & The Basics 6

Culture & Events 8

History 10

Where to stay 11 Pillow plumping for weary heads

Where to eat 15

Nightlife 20 There’s whiskey at the bar

What to see 24 Drink it all in

Temple Bar 38

Beyond Dublin 39 Coastal escape within city reach

Shopping 44 Vintage rules

Maps & Street Register

City map 48-49

Ireland map 50

Street Register 51

Contents

Howth Harbour ©Fáilte Ireland.

Jim Larkin outside the GPO

Arriving

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com August - September 2012dublin.inyourpocket.com

4 Foreword


I f a picture paints a thousand words t h e n t h i s i s o n e masterpiece worth soliloquising about. One of Ireland’s most magnificent estates, Powerscourt House a n d G a r d e n s i s resp l en d en t b oth inside and out. Go explore on p.42.

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Editorial Managing Editor Heidi McAlpin (048) 9047 [email protected]

Dublin EditorAdam [email protected]

Advertising Sales DirectorAlan Groves (+44) (0)7795 [email protected]

History contributorDr. Jonathan Bardon OBE

Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite

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We’ve travelled beyond the city limts for this issue to visit two of Ireland’s finest Great Estates. And the great news is that both are within driving distance of Dublin. Co. Wicklow’s Powerscourt Gardens and neighbouring Ritz-Carlton Hotel (p.42) offer scenic respite designed to whisk you away to panoramic pastures new. While Co. Monaghan’s Castle Leslie Estate (p.43) retains a bygone era of landed gentry, equine pursuits and forest walks. So hit the road and experience these two wonderful locations.Back in Dublin, and late summer promises finer weather and, here’s hoping, the perfect conditions for some lazy lolling in the city’s beautiful Parks. Find your picture-postcard picnic spot from p.32.And when it’s time to head indoors, Irish phenomenon Riverdance (p.8) continues at the iconic Gaiety Theatre, the Guinness Storehouse (p.36) and Old Jameson Distillery (p.34) serve visitors exemplary Irish sups and a tasty selection of Restaurants (p.15) and Nightlife (p.20) ensures everyone is kept well fed and watered.A superb selection of museums, galleries, shopping and tours reinforces this fair city as one of the world’s finest. Get your visit off to a memorable start by perusing What to see (from p.24).

Copyright notice Text copyright In Your Pocket Ltd. 2000-2012. Maps copyright Maps in Minutes, Failte Ireland and TASCQ. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+353)(0)1 (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of Dublin In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Next issue October - November 2012

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5Arriving

Dublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com August - September 2012dublin.inyourpocket.comDublin In Your Pocket dublin.inyourpocket.com August - September 2012dublin.inyourpocket.com

By trainRegional and national transport is getting there with a cross-country rail network and super swift city services gliding you effortlessly from coast to coast. Jump aboard our listings and read up on Ireland’s InterCity railway system, Dublin’s two main stations and the capital’s DART and Luas networks.

Iarnród Éireann Tel. (+353)(0)1 1890 77 88 99 - talk-ing timetable, www.iarnrodeireann.ie. Ireland’s national train company covers 87 InterCity stations with services divided into Standard and Superstandard Classes. Smoking is prohibited on all services and in all stations. Dublin’s two main train stations - Heuston and Connolly - are connected by a 14min Luas trip.

Connolly Station C-2, Amiens St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 703 2358. Dublin’s busiest train station is on the north side of the city beside Busáras Central Bus Terminal and Dublin’s financial area, the International Financial Services Centre (IFSC). The station is 5mins walk from the city centre. Inter-City trains go to Belfast, Sligo, Dundalk, Drogheda, Arklow, Maynooth, Longford and Rosslare Europort. The DART train runs to the affluent seaside villages of Malahide and Howth on the north side and the pretty Co. Wicklow beach towns of Bray and Greystones on the south side. The Luas Red Line terminates at Connolly Station.

Heuston Station A-2, St. John’s Rd, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 703 3299. InterCity trains run to Cork, Tralee, Limer-ick, Waterford, Ballina, Westport, Galway, Ennis, Kildare and Clonmel. The station is south of the River Liffey at the end of the Quays, 20mins walk from the city centre, 15mins walk from the Guinness Storehouse and 5mins walk from Phoenix Park. The Luas Red Line connects Connolly Station on the east side and Tallaght on the west side.

DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) www.irishrail.ie/home. The iconic green DART commuter trains carry around 80,000 passengers every day as they traverse the city and hug the coastline from Greystones in the South to Malahide or Howth in the north. Trains run from c.06:30 - 23:00 - check the on-line timetable to avoid disappointment/frustration. Trains operate every 5/10mins during peak times, and there’s an average gap of 20mins during off-peak and 20-30mins on Sun and Bank Holidays. Make like a local and buy pre-paid tickets to bag yourself a canny discount.

Whether arriving on a low-budget plane, piloting your own Learjet or driving sedately off a ferry, here’s some handy info to help smooth your journey. Doors to manual.

By planeDublin Airport Tel. (+353)(0)1 814 1111, www.dublin-airpor t.com. The countr y’s main airpor t is situated approx. 10km north of Dublin city centre near the M50 and M1 motorways. A large number of buses, coaches and taxis serve the airpor t which has two terminals - including the gleaming new T2. Remember to pay for any car parking at the automatic pay stations in the arrivals hall - or at the entrance to the short term car park - before returning to your car, as there are no cashiers at the exit. A bank, Bureau de Change and 24hr ATMs dispensing Euros, US$ and GBP£ are on the arrivals level. The Airport Information Desk, Dublin Tourism Tourist Information Office and Bus and Rail info desk are be-side the second entrance. Car hire desks (06:00 - 23:00) are in the arrivals hall. The Mezzanine Level has a variety of restaurants and cafés.

By boatDublin Ferryport (Dublin Port Company) D-2, Alexandra Rd, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 887 6000, www.dublinport.ie. Ireland’s busiest port is the second larg-est industrial estate in the country and employs 4000 people. There are up to 18 daily sailings to the UK and the continent, and Dublin-bound cruise ships also use its terminal. Buses and taxis (difficult to find during busy sailing times) provide a regular service to and from the port which is just two miles from Dublin city centre. Keep walking on the north side of the River Liffey past the O2 and you are at the Port area.

Dun Laoghaire Harbour The Ferry Terminal, Harbour Rd, Dun Laoghaire, tel. (+353)(0)1 280 8074, www.dlharbour.ie. Seven miles south of Dublin city is the Victo-rian town of Dun Laoghaire whose man-made 19th century Harbour is the largest in Western Europe. Daily Stena HSS sailings connect the town with Holyhead in Wales, and buses, taxis and the DART (20mins to Dublin City) provide transport to and from the port. There is a Dublin Tourism Information Office in the ferry terminal which is located on the seafront between the east and west piers, the former of which has two Crimean War cannons. See p.39 for more info.

The Weather

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Irish Ferries D -2, Terminal 1, Dublin Ferry-port, tel. (+353)(0)1 855 2222, www.irish -f e r r i e s . c o m . D a i l y s a i l i n g s t o H o l y h e a d , Wales (from 1hr 49mins).Isle of Man Steam Packet Company D-2, Termi-nal 1, Dublin Ferryport, tel. 1800 505 505, www.steam-packet.com. Easter - Sept. sailings to Douglas, Isle of Man (2hrs 50mins).P&O Irish Sea D-2, Terminal 3, Dublin Ferryport, tel. (+353)(0)1 876 2345, www.poirishsea.com. Daily sailings to Liverpool (7hrs 30mins).Stena D-2, Terminal 2, Dublin Ferryport, tel. (+353)(0)1 204 7777, www.stenaline.ie. Daily sailings to Holyhead, Wales from Dun Laoghaire Har-bour (1hr 59mins) and Dublin Ferryport (3hrs 15mins).

Dublin and Dun Laoghaire ferries


6 GETTING AROUND & BASICS


By busDublin Bus B-2, Head Office, 59 Upper O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 4222, www.dublinbus.ie. Dublin Bus serves Dublin city and county, and adjoining areas. Bus routes are known by the number on the front of the bus. Check the website’s timetable for local bus routes and times. Buses don’t stop automatically, so put your hand out when you see yours coming. And buy a prepaid ticket or have exact change ready. The on-board machine only accepts coins and no change is given. Prepaid tickets can be bought in advance, and in bulk, as singles, daily, weekly, monthly or annual tickets from Dublin Bus offices or ticket agents across the city. The Airlink shuttle bus runs between the Airport and the city centre, also stopping at Heuston, Connolly and Busáras Stations.

By LuasTel. (+353)(0)1 461 4910, www.Luas.ie. Luas (Irish for speed ) light rail transit system was introduced in 2004. These sleek, silver trams provide a frequent, fast and efficient passenger service across two lines and six zones. The Red Line runs from Saggart and Tallaght in the West to Connolly Station and The Point (location and original title for the O2 arena) in the East. Keep an eye on the destination at the front of the tram as some terminate at Heuston Station. The Green Line is en-tirely in the Southside and links St. Stephen’s Green with Brides Glen. Of the various fare options, visitors will most likely use Single (€1.60-2.90), Return (€3.10-5.20) or unlimited travel Flexi Tickets (1 day €6.30, 7 days €23). Tickets can be purchased at plat form machines or (slightly cheaper) a Luas Ticket Outlet. Child’s prices are significantly cheaper. There’s on-board CCTV and a fine for fare evasion. As most trams have an inspector, it’s silly to try and get away with not paying. Trams run every 9/10mins and 3/6mins at peak times (07:45 - 09:15). Check www.Luas.ie for updates. QOpen 05:30 - 00:30, Sat 06:30 - 00:30, Sun 07:00 - 23:30.

Driving in IrelandDrivers must carry their drivers licence at all times. Drive on the left. Traffic coming from the right-hand side has prece-dence on roundabouts (traffic rotaries). It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat belts. If renting a car with children you must also rent the appropriate seat or cushion for their age and weight. Children under 12 years are not permitted in front seats. Speed limits: Motorway 120km/h, national road 100km/h, towing trailers, caravans, etc 80km/h (or less where signposted).

BorderThe island’s only land border, between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland (NI), is 360kms (224m) long and stretches from Lough Foyle in the north-west to Carlingford Lough in the south-east. In common with many internal EU borders, it is very inconspicuous and open by world standards. Drive on the left hand side on both sides of the border but beware of the change in speed limits. In Ireland it’s kilometres per hour (kph) whilst in Northern Ireland it is in miles per hour (mph).

ParkingOn-street parking meters operate a Pay and Display system. Buy your tickets in advanced and display on the windscreen to avoid clamping or a fine. Retain the ticket counterfoil as a reminder of its expiry time. The average cost in the city centre is €2.90/hr, with a max of 3hrs parking in most locations. Machines only accept cash. There are many multi-storey car parks in the city centre, and most offer a discount on overnight parking. Look for the digital signs - updated every minute - telling you how many spaces are free.

Currency & BanksUnlike their NI neighbours who still use £Sterling, Ireland is in the Euro Zone. Bank opening hours are usually Mon, Tues and Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:30 - 16:00 and Thurs 10:00 - 17:00. Many shops and services now use CHIP & PIN cards. In addition to banks, money can be changed at most Post Offices, Tourist Offices and hotels.

CustomsA full list of regulations, licences and allowances are available from: Customs Information Office, New Custom House, Promenade Rd, D3, tel. (+353)( 0)1 877 6222, www.revenue.ie.

Emergency numbersThe main Emergency Services are Police (Gardaí), EMS (Emergency Medical Service) and Ambulance, Fire and Rescue, Marine and Coastal Emergencies and Mountain Rescue. Freephone 999 or 112 from a landline or mobile.

PostGPO (General Post Office) B-2, O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 705 7000, www.anpost.ie. Dublin’s main post office is the stand-out architectural and historic landmark on bustling O’Connell Street. As well as buying stamps and sending parcels you can also pay bills, top up your mobile phone credit and send or receive money, A small beautifully designed museum tells the story of the building, the postal service and the GPO’s place in 1916. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun and Public Holidays. See Museum listing p.26.

Major motorway construction over the last two decades has made road journeys between Dublin and major cities such as Cork (3hrs), Galway (2hrs 20mins) and Belfast (2hrs 15mins) quicker than ever. The small price to pay for this is a network of tolls. The starting point for most people leaving Dublin is the M50, which has an electronic barrier-free system that identifies and charges your car automatically as you drive through (payable at any petrol station within 24hrs), but other tolls can be paid in cash at manned booths. We recommend having the exact change ready for a speedy, no-fuss cash drop facility.Charges start from €1.80 per car. Check www.nra.ie for updates and toll locations.

Dublin Port Tunnel, D-2, www.dublinporttunnel.ie. This feat of modern-day engineering burrows seven storeys beneath Dublin city, making your North/South journey a lot more swift. Opened in 2007, the 4.5km Tunnel has two ’one-way’ tubes connecting Dublin Port with the M1 and the National Roads network via the M50 at Coolock in around 10mins. Tolls (€3-10 each way depending on day and time) can be paid to a cashier, at a coin machine or in advance at www.etrip.ie. Before entering remove sunglasses, turn on dipped headlights and check you’ve enough fuel for the full 5.6km journey.

Toll Roads & Dublin Port Tunnel

7GETTING AROUND & BAsIcs


C-2/3, 6-7 Hanover St. East, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 6610562, fax (+353)(0)1 661 0452, [email protected], www.itas.ie. If you are a tourist and have been a victim of crime, report the incident to the Gardaí (Police) and call ITAS who can assist with language difficulties, cancelling credit cards/organising money transfers, con-tacting travel companies in relation to re-issuing stolen travel tickets, liaising with embassies for passport/ID replacement and arranging accommodation, meals and transport in emergencies Q Open Mon-Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun & Public Holidays 12:00 - 18:00.

Irish Tourist Assistance Service

Service: 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Days of operation: Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-Sat Mon-SatDUBLIN CONNOLLY - BELFAST CENTRALDublin, Connolly Rail Stn 07:35 09:35 11:00 13:20 15:20 16:50 19:00 20:50 Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 09:45 11:50 13:15 15:35 17:27 18:57 21:15 22:57 BELFAST CENTRAL - DUBLIN CONNOLLY Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 06:50 08:00 10:35 12:35 14:10 16:10 18:10 20:10Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 09:04 10:00 12:44 14:44 16:17 18:15 20:15 22:18Days of operation: Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun Sun SunDUBLIN CONNOLLY - BELFAST CENTRALDublin, Connolly Rail Stn 10:00 13:00 16:00 18:00 19:00Belfast, (NIR) Central Stn 12:16 15:07 18:07 20:07 21:07BELFAST CENTRAL - DUBLIN CONNOLLYBelfast, (NIR) Central Stn 10:00 13:00 15:00 16:00 19:00Dublin, Connolly Rail Stn 12:13 15:13 17:15 18:15 21:05

Book at www.irishrail.ie for discounted fares (subject to availability).

Dublin-Belfast Enterprise Rail Service

H Conference facilities W WiFi

F Fitness centre E Occasional live music

K Restaurant J City centre location

D Sauna C Swimming pool

L Parking M Luas

Symbol key

1 Jan: New Year’s Day 4 June: Public Holiday2 Jan: Public Holiday 6 Aug: Public Holiday17 March: St Patrick’s Day 29 Oct: Public Holiday19 March: Public Holiday 25 Dec: Christmas Day9 April: Easter Monday 26 Dec: St Stephen’s Day7 May: Public Holiday

Ireland’s 2012 Public Holidays

Unlike most European countries, Ireland has no post-codes as such. However, Dublin does have postal districts numbered D1 - D24. Keep your eyes on street signs and use our handy map and you’ll soon be navigating like a native.Dublin 1 and 7 are the North City Centre and Dublin 2 and 8 are the South City Centre. These are the four main districts you’re likely to visit. As Dublin is quite a small city, you can still get to most places on foot so don’t be deterred; although Dublin 6 and 3 look a long way out of the city centre, they’re really only about a 10min walk away. The only exception to this rule is Phoenix Park whose official address is Dublin 8, even though it’s on the Northside. Also, Dubliners rarely refer to places as Dublin 2 or Dublin 1, instead writing D2 or D1.Another way of traversing the city with ease is to use the River Liffey as your divide. Everywhere north of the Liffey is referred to as the Northside and all the postal numbers are uneven. Cross over the River Liffey and you’ve arrived in the Southside where all postal numbers are even. Hence, simply by where you live, you are either a Northsider or a Southsider.

Finding Your Way Around

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Smoking & AlcoholThe legal age for smoking and drinking in the Republic of Ireland is 18. In March 2004, Ireland became the first country in Europe to introduce a complete ban on smoking in the workplace. Remember to specify your preference for a smoking or non-smoking room when booking accommoda-tion. It is, unsurprisingly, illegal to sell or buy drugs anywhere in the Republic of Ireland.

Tourist InformationDiscover Ireland Centre, B-2, Suffolk St, D2, www.visitdublin.com. Located in a restored former church, take a moment to admire the mightily impressive stained glass windows and equally inspiring vaulted ceiling. Tourist info abounds, and you can also book tours, accommodation and lots of other visitor goodies at the various counters, including our friends at Visit Ireland Travel. A ground floor shop sells the usual horde of souvenirs, and an upstairs sandwich bar is a great spot to galvanise yourself before joining your fellow sightseers and shoppers. QOpen Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30 (19:00 July & Aug), Sun 10:30 - 15:00. Also at Dublin Airport and 14 Upper O’Connell St.


8 Culture & events


Bord Gáis Energy Theatre C-2, Grand Canal Square, Docklands, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7999, www.bor-dgaisenergytheatre.ie. Formely the Grand Canal Theatre, Ireland’s latest cultural epicentre stages musicals, dance, opera and family shows, including many West End and Broadway productions.

RDS (Royal Dublin Society) Ballsbridge, D4, tel. (+353)(0)1 668 0866, www.rds.ie. Over the years this colossus of a venue has staged many stellar performances with U2, Paul McCartney, Pavarotti, Michael Flatley and two Eurovision Song Contests wowing the crowds. The RDS is spread across four facilities: the Concert Hall (cap. 900), Main Hall (3000-5000), Simmonscourt Pavilion (up to 7000) and RDS Stadium (over 35,000). It also regularly hosts shows, conferences and sporting events.

The O2 D-2, East Link Bridge, North Wall Quay, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 676 6170, www.theo2.ie. Taking up a corner in Dublin’s central docklands, the O2 is the long-overdue replace-ment to The Point Depot. Now with a capacity of 12,000 and what is described as “world class” acoustics, the Dublin O2 is already promising to be one of the best live music venues in Europe (as with its London equivalent).

Olympia Theatre B-2, 72 Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 3323, www.olympia.ie. Built in 1879, this famous venue was demolished and rebuilt several years later and is now one of the city’s most atmospheric entertainment meccas. On Dame Street, opposite Dublin Castle, it is cur-rently owned by promoters MCD and plays host to concerts, comedians and popular productions. Its red metal and glass façade is a well-known city landmark where variety is truly the spice of life.

Theatres & Concert venuesAbbey Theatre C-2, 26 Lower Abbey St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 7222, w w w.abb ey theatre.ie. Dating back to 1904, Ireland’s National Theatre was reopened by President Eamon De Valera at its current site over six decades later. Irish culture and plays and international works are its main staple; one of its found-ers was WB Yeats. Acclaimed Irish playwrights George Bernard Shaw, JM Synge, O’Casey, Wilde, Friel and Heaney have all been performed here. I t has two au-di toriums and a studio space, The Peacock Theatre, which is dedicated to new plays and contemporar y classic drama.

Gaiety Theatre B-2, South King St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 5622, www.gaietytheatre.ie. The Grand Old Lady opened in 1871 and is Dublin’s longest-established theatre in continuous production. An eclectic line-up, from Pavlova to Pavarotti and Julie Andrews to Jack Benny, has graced its eclectic stage. The 1971 Eurovision Song Contest transmit-ted live from its auditorium - and marked RTE’s earliest colour transmission of an indoor event.

Gate Theatre B-2, 1 Cavendish Row, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 874 4085, www.gate-theatre.ie. Although the building is over 200 years old, the theatre was only founded here in 1928. In 1991 The Gate was the world’s first theatre to showcase all Beckett’s nineteen stage plays. It has also staged four Harold Pinter festivals and premiered many of Brian Friel’s plays over the past 40 years. As this was not a custom-built theatre, delivered sets have to be cut up and reassembled inside. To bring it into the next century, over €6m is being spent on a new wing.

Riverdance at the GaietyOf all the performances to emerge from Ireland - in rock, music, theatre and film - nothing has carried the energy, the sensuality and the spectacle of Riverdance.And this summer, visitors to Dublin can experience this legendary dance and music extravaganza at the Gaiety Theatre from 26 June - 2 September.With its fusion of Irish and International music and dance, the show broke all box office records during its world première run in Dublin in 1995. It then transferred to London where the un-precedented reaction increased the original ten performances to 151. A hugely successful tour followed to New York, Belfast and Cork and, since those early days, it has packed theatres across North America, Oceania, Asia and Europe. Currently there is one Riverdance production each touring in North America (the Shannon) and through Australasia (the Moy). And every summer a third company (the Foyle) plays here in Dublin and in cities across Ireland.Riverdance was initially performed as a seven-minute inter-val act at Dublin’s 1994 Eurovision Song Contest.Its innovative and exciting blend of dance, music and song draws on Irish traditions and combines the talents of perform-ers as they propel Irish dancing and music into the present day. Up to 65 cast and crew members, with the remarkable River-dance Irish Dance Troupe, the cream of Irish musicians in the Riverdance Band and a spectacular array of international guest artists, perform to the magic of Bill Whelan’s music in this not-to-be-missed spectacular.To join the already more than 22 million people worldwide who have been thrilled by over 10,000 performances, contact the Gaiety Theatre Box Office by tel. (+353) (0)1 677 1717 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie.

9EvEnts


Events & Festivals in August & September

AugustWed 15 - Sun 19: Discover Ireland Dublin Horse Show, RDS, Merrion Rd, Dublin 4.We love our horses in Ireland, and this long-standing Dublin tradition celebrates our affinity with our equine friends. The Horse Show welcomes the best national and international show jumpers to the country and there’s a great festival atmosphere as thousands descend upon the venue for great summer entertainment. If horses aren’t your thing you can enjoy the show’s live music or indulge in a little shopping at the arts and crafts exhibitions. Blossom Hill Ladies Day on Thur 16 sees Dublin women arrive in all of their finery. Hats at the ready. Runs 08:00 - 20:30 daily. Tickets: From €33.35. Visit www.dublinhorseshow.com or tel. (+353)(0)1 456 9569 (outside Ireland), 1800 719 300 (within Ireland).

Sat 18 - Sun 26: National Heritage WeekVarious Locations.This year’s nationwide celebration of our heritage has a special focus on Built Heritage. Cultural, historical and artistic attractions nationwide, many of them not usually open to the public, will be home to a huge variety of cre-ative and educational events - many of them free. As well as guided walking tours there will be lectures, seminars, exhibitions, workshops, open houses and a whole lot of fun. Places to head to in the city include the National Museums, Dublin Castle, Merrion Square Open Day (Sat), Kilmainham Gaol, Dublinia and both Cathedrals. For a full list of what’s on where visit www.heritageweek.ie or tel. (+353)(0)56 777 0777 / 1850 200 878.

Thur 23 - Sun 26: Dublin Tall Ships Races Festival, George’s Quay and Dublin Docks.We Dubliners don’t need much of an excuse to have a party, but we think the fact that our fair city is the final host port for the Tall Ships Races is a pretty good one. Hardy seafarers will have made their way from St Malo in France across the Bay of Biscay to Lisbon, then Cadiz and Coruna, before hitting land here, and we will be out in force to greet them. As well as being able to visit the ships, there will be markets, nautical exhibitions and worshops, great water sport displays, literary trails, puppet shows, buskers and performances to enjoy, and to really put some wind in your sails, Bulmers will be hosting a series of free concerts featuring top national and international artists - make sure to check in with us for updates on the line-up. For full details go to www.dublintallships.ie or tel. (+353)(0)1 222 5243.

SeptemberSat 8 - Sun 23: Dublin ABSOLUT Fringe Festival Various Locations and prices.Ireland’s largest multi-disciplinary arts festival is now in its18th year and has steadily become one of the highlights of the city’s cultural calendar. With more than 500 events taking place across 40 locations, Dublin truly comes alive with dance, music, comedy, theatre, street performances and exhibitions renowned for both entertaining and push-ing the boundaries. The audience will be placed centre-stage for many interactive events such as a search for a time-travelling criminal using a specially designed app. Watch out too for the new show, Elevator, from theatre company thisispopbaby - sure to be a highlight. Keep posted on all the action at www.fringefest.com or tel (+353) (0)1 670 6106.

Sun 9 & Sun 23: GAA All Ireland Finals, Croke Park Stadium, St Joseph Ave, Dublin 3.The nation will turn its attention to the home of our national games and whole counties will empty as sup-porters of the teams lucky, or good enough, to make the finals, will descend on the capital to see their heroes battle it out for the country’s highest sporting honours. This is the climax of Ireland’s national sport, and a glorious festival atmosphere will permeate each and every pub as fans who haven’t managed to nab a ticket congregate round the TV screens. The Hurling Final takes place on Sun 9 while the Gaelic Football Final will be hosted two weeks later on Sun 23. Dublin are reigning football champions and if they make it to the final again you’ll need to get your seat early. For full details, go to www.gaa.ie.

Fri 21: Dublin Culture Night, Various Locations.There’s no escaping the fact - Dublin is a city of immense culture, and for one night only, the city’s attractions open their doors for this fab free event. Join the fun, festive atmosphere as Dubliners and tourists make the most of the city’s culture spots. Museums, galleries, churches, historic houses, studios and cultural centres will be open late into the evening and will feature hundreds of activities, including concerts, performances, tours and workshops to keep you entertained. For a list of venues and activities visit www.culturenight.ie.

Thur 27: Arthur’s Day, Various Locations.Starting out as an ingenious marketing ploy backed by an unforgettable ad toasting Arthur Guinness for his world-famous stout, Arthur’s Day has quite rightly be-come an annual event. Join the crowds at their favourite pubs by raising a glass to the man himself, the founder of the Black Stuff, at precisely 17:59 (1759 being the year he founded the famous brewing company). Since its inception, the Day has grown in popularity and has become a major cultural event with gigs and perfor-mances all over the city for those lucky enough to get a ticket, but even if you don’t get to see one of the many acts, you can still soak up a terrific atmosphere in pretty much any pub in the capital, many of which become surprisingly generous for the day that’s in it. To Arthur! Events are over 18s and more details can be found on www.guinness.com.

Thur 27 - Sun 14 Oct: Dublin Theatre FestivalVarious Locations and prices. Presenting the best in national and international theatre, this prestigious 18-day festival will this year celebrate Dublin life in all its forms with a special focus called Your City, Your Stories, highlighting the constantly changing city and its people, whether they live in, work in, or are simply visiting the capital. Some 29 shows will be staged in venues around the city by national and international theatre companies, with The Corn Exchange’s adapta-tion of James Joyce’s Dubliners and The Abbey’s version of Oscar Wilde’s The Picture Of Dorian Grey running alongside international classics like Hamlet, here re-constructed and reimagined by the acclaimed Wooster Group. An absolute treat for anybody who loves theatre, the extensive programme will have something for all tastes. For details visit www.dublintheatrefestival.com or tel (+353) (0)1 677 8439.


10 HISTORY


The name Dublin comes from the Gaelic dubh linn or “black pool” - where the Poddle stream met the River Liffey to form a deep pool at Dublin Castle. The city’s modern name - Baile Áth Cliath – means the “town of the ford of the hurdles”. Ireland’s four principal routeways converged at a crossing place made of hurdles of interwoven saplings straddling the low-tide Liffey.

837 AD – 917 AD: In 837, sixty Viking longships attacked churches round the Poddle and Liffey estuary, and the invaders made a permanent settlement in 841.

917 – 1014: Dublin was the Viking world’s largest city and traded from Iceland to Constantinople. The first genuine ruler of all Ireland - High King, Brian Boru - was rebelled against by Dublin Vikings and the Leinster Irish. With the aid of Vikings, Brian crushed his foes, then was himself slain, in an epic battle at Clontarf in 1014.

1014 – 1170: The Vikings adopted Christianity and founded Christ Church Cathedral. In 1169, the deposed Irish King MacMurrough sought help from south-west Wales Normans who, under their leader Richard FitzGilbert de Clare (Strongbow), seized Dublin.

1171 – 1399: In 1171 Henry II landed with a great army, and made Dublin the capital of the Normans’ Irish territory and the heart of the Norman and English colony. Christ Church was rebuilt in the Gothic style and work began on St Patrick’s Cathedral. In 1317 Scottish King Robert the Bruce and brother Edward failed to take the city, but much destruction ensued. In 1348 the city was gripped by the Black Death.

1399 – 1603: English royal control of Ireland shrank during the 14th and 15th Centuries to coastal towns and an area round Dublin known as the Pale. From 1485-1603 the city played a crucial role when Tudor monarchs undertook a reconquest. In 1603 The Earl of Tyrone submitted and, for the first time, the Crown won control of the entire island.

1603 – 1660: English monarchs decided Ireland should become Protestant. Christ Church and St Patrick’s were taken over and restored. English Civil War broke out in 1642 and many citizens joined the Gaelic Irish rebellion which had begun the year before. Eventually the forces of Parliament prevailed, and defeated royalists and the Irish besieged Dublin at Rathmines in 1649. Oliver Cromwell landed thirteen days later to begin the relentless subjugation of the country

1660 – 1691: A remarkable period of recovery began and, between 1610-1683, the population rose from 26,000 to 58,000. Instability returned when James II, chased from England, arrived in Ireland via France in 1689. He was given an enthusiastic reception in Dublin but, after defeat by William of Orange at the Boyne in 1690, returned to France.

1691 – 1798: A long peace followed William III’s victory, and Dublin became the British Empire’s second largest city. By the middle of the 18th Century, the population was close to 130,000. A magnificent new parliament house (now the Bank of Ireland) was built in 1728 and a splendid gateway and façade for Trinity College completed in 1759 – making College Green the social hub of Dublin.

1798 – 1900: Rebellion by the United Irishmen in 1798. The authorities kept the insurrection out of Dublin but the revolt convinced Westminster to close the Dublin Parliament, and the 1801 Act of Union saw Ireland ruled from London. The aristocracy slowly deserted and, while it continued

to grow, the city endured severe economic difficulties. Destitute victims of the Great Famine poured into Dublin from 1845-1850.

1900 – 1923: At the outbreak of WWI, the Irish Republican Brotherhood and the Irish Citizen Army prepared rebellion. The insurrection began on Easter Monday 1916 and was eventually put down, leaving much of the city centre around the General Post Office reduced to rubble. During the War of Independence, beginning in 1919, much guerrilla fighting took place in the streets, and in May 1921 the Irish Republican Army burned the Custom House. The 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty made Dublin the capital of the Irish Free State. Disagreement over the terms of the Treaty resulted in civil war which began when Free State troops bombarded the Four Courts and buildings in O’Connell Street. The anti-Treaty IRA called a truce in the spring of 1923.

1923 – 1965: Dublin remained an elegant but somewhat impoverished city - the capital of a state which, in stages, severed its last links with the British Empire in the 1930s and 1940s and became a republic in 1949. Ireland’s first Taoiseach (or Prime Minister) Eamon de Valera kept the state - renamed Éire in 1937 - out of WW2.

1965 – 1991: A long era of peace, with trade agreements with Britain in 1965 and the joining of the Common Market in 1973 heralding spectacular – if uneven – city growth. In 1963, four months before his assassination, President Kennedy visited Ireland. In 1979 Pope John Paul ll - the first reigning Pope to visit Ireland - celebrated mass in front of one million people at Phoenix Park. In 1985 the Irish and British governments signed the Anglo-Irish Agreement giving the Republic of Ireland a consultative role in the NI government. In 1988 Dublin celebrated its Millennium and became European Capital of Culture in 1991.

1990s-2000: From the 1990s, the Celtic Tiger economy boomed and many ex-pats – or Irish Diaspora – returned home. House prices vied with those in London, and international music success, from Eurovision to U2, further cemented Ireland’s new culture of cool. In 1990 Mary Robinson became the first female President of Ireland. The feel-good factor spread into sport; cyclist Stephen Roche won the 1987 Tour De France, Ireland beat Italy in the 1994 US World Cup Finals and runner Sonia O’Sullivan won World Championship gold in 1995 and Olympic silver in 2000.

2000s: In 2002 the Euro replaces the Punt as Ireland’s currency. In 2008 Ireland becomes the first EU state to enter recession. On 28 Nov 2010 Ireland is forced to accept an €85billion EU bailout to prop up its decimated banking system. On Fri 25 Feb 2011, the Fianna Fáil party suffers the worst General Election defeat of a sitting government since the Irish state’s 1921 foundation. Fine Gael leader Enda Kenny becomes Taoiseach in a coalition with the Labour Party. In May 2011 The Queen is the first British monarch to visit Ireland since it became a Republic. US President Obama follows with a whirlwind visit to Dublin and his ancestral home of Moneygall, Co. Offaly. In Oct 2011 Michael D. Higgins is elected the 9th President of Ireland.


11Where to stay


Hotels are experiencing a downturn in occupancy whic-h has resulted in big discounts available on-line and across a wide range of accommodation providers. Check out our website and iPhone App for lots more hotels and last minute savings via booking.com. Star ratings reflect those given by Fáilte Ireland - the Irish Tourist Board.

5 StarConrad Hilton C-3, Earlsfort Terrace, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 602 8900, [email protected], www.conrad-dublin.com. Located opposite the National Concert Hall, this classic contemporary hotel is a stone’s throw from St. Stephen’s Green and many of Dublin’s main attractions. Calming muted tones dominate the bright rooms, and the Presidential Suite is pure indulgence. Large conferencing facilities and WiFi access throughout ensure all your needs are taken care of. Relax and unwind at the hotel cocktail bar - and Alex restaurant specialising in seafood - on the ground floor. During summer, the traditional Alfie Burn’s Irish bar lays on open-air BBQs that are very popular with locals and guests. Q192 rooms. (single/double €169-240, suite €219-319). JH6FLKW hhhhh

Four Seasons Hotel D-3, Simmonscourt Rd, D4, tel. (+353)(0)1 665 4000, [email protected], www.fourseasons.com/dublin. In the leafy Embassy-strewn suburb of Ballsbridge, this six storey red-brick hotel sits majestically in the grounds of the Royal Dublin Society. The Four Seasons is a stalwart of Dublin society and, as befits its stature, plays host to numerous charity balls. The ICE bar is for sipping champagne and cocktails, while Seasons Restaurant is the stomping ground of Dublin’s power players. Indeed, you could say the salubrious nature of the neighbourhood is reflected in the clientele. Rooms and suites are equally elegant, and the Spa is a tranquil oasis in which to repose and reflect on your fabulous surroundings. Q197 rooms. (single €225-500, suite €400-2600). H6FKDCW hhhhh

Merrion Hotel C-3, Upper Merrion St, D2, tel. (+353 )(0)1 603 0600, [email protected], www.merrionhotel.com. Created from four Grade A listed Georgian Houses, one being the Duke of Wellington’s birthplace, this beautifully restored building boasts bright, antique-filled rooms and a modern wing overlooking a private garden. If staying here, invest in the rooms facing onto the Dáil (Irish Houses of Parliament). A two star Mi-chelin restaurant, trompe l’oile swiming pool and two reception rooms with fantastic sofas in which to sit and enjoy a glass of wine, makes The Merrion a particularly romantic idyll. And con-noisseurs will be pleased to learn that a French vineyard makes wine exclusively for the hotel, and the extensive art collection is privately owned by one of the three owners. Q142 rooms. (single €460, double €480, suite €960-3000). JHFLK�DCW hhhhh

Shelbourne Renaissance Hotel B-2, 27 St. Stephen’s Green, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 663 4500, [email protected], www.marriott.com. Immerse yourself in what many people consider to be the Dublin hotel. It’s certainly a city landmark of the finest order, with a tip-top location and history-laden ambience. Built in 1824, room 112 - The Constitution Room - is where the 1922 Irish Constitution was drafted. Many of the suites are named after previous guests - most notably Princess Grace, and a recent restoration has brought this grand old lady back to her original splendour. Real log fires burn contentedly in the grates as you enjoy a cocktail in No. 27 Bar and Lounge or pint of Guinness in the famous, traditional Horseshoe Bar. Afternoon tea in the Lord Mayor’s Lounge is a must if you want to emmerse yourself in a recaptured era of high society Georgian Dublin. For all its opulence, the Shelbourne is always welcoming and never aloof. Visit, stay, enjoy. Q265 rooms (single €189 - €269, double €189 - €279, suite €349 - €2500). JHLKW hhhhh

UpmarketBest Western Premier Academy Plaza Hotel C-2, Find-later Place, Off Upr O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 0666, [email protected], www.academyplazaho-tel.ie. This newly rebuilt hotel is smart, inviting and slap bang in the city centre. All rooms have distinctive red and black checked carpets, soft cream walls, and crisp linens on the super-comfort beds, ensuring a good night’s sleep is on the cards. The modern bar and two restaurants - Oscars for trad and contemporary and Abacus for elegant oriental dining - give this three star a culinary edge. Complimentary WiFi, discount guest parking, a gym and games room keep budgets in tact and boredom at bay. Golfing services can be booked for business groups or individuals who fancy getting tee’d off. The staff are very helpful and the location top notch... definitely one to check out. Breakfast €12. Q285 rooms. (single €79-€225, double €89-249, triple €109-279, quad €159-319, suite €299-349). JHFKW hhh

Croke Park Hotel C-1, Jones’s Rd, D3, tel. (+353)(0)1 871 4444, www.doylecollection.com. Facing onto Croke Park Stadium, this big, new pristine hotel is greared up for business execs, but is also the place to be on match day as you soak up the excitement and anticipation in the Sideline Bar and Bistro. And, as it’s just 10mins walk from O’Connell St, all the major at-tractions are reassuringly convenient. Self-styled Rejuvenate beds and duck down duvets soothe you into a blissful slumber and - wait for it ladies - skirt hangers ensure your power suits stay crease-free. Bathrooms have separate baths and showers, and underfloor heating to keep toes toasty warm - nice touch. With WiFi in the public areas and executive rooms, and free car parking for all guests, this is one upmarket overnight option well worth a peep. Q232 rooms (single/double €85-309, triple €95-319, suite €299-650). HFKW hhhh

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12 Where to stay


Gibson Hotel Dublin Docklands D-2, MLuas The Point, tel. (+353)(0)1 681 5000, [email protected], www.thegibsonhotel.ie. Whether you are in Dublin on business or for pleasure, this chic hotel at the Point Village in the heart of the historic Docklands region is in a perfect location and offers stylish and comfortable accommodation. As it’s located right beside the 02 con-cert venue you can enjoy a great show before strolling the very short distance to the comfort of your room or relax in one of the many bars, while those heading for a business meeting or conference in the nearby Financial Services Centre won’t have far to go to unwind. A range of eateries and bars as well as inner courtyards and balconies mean you can enjoy the feel of urban living with added comfort. Q252 rooms €99-€250. JFKW hhhh

BoutiqueFitzwilliam Hotel B-2, St. Stephens Green, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 7000, [email protected], www.fitzwilliamhotel.com. Designed by Sir Terence Conran in his famous sleek style, this smart hotel is located at the top of Grafton Street, opposite St Stephen’s Green. Its two star Michelin restaurant Thornton’s overlooks the Green, making for a luxurious dining experience. Downstairs the bar has relaxed chairs and some very comfy booths... great for those evenings when you feel like a bit of ’me-time’. The stylish bedrooms come with fresh fowers, fab views and subtle lighting. From its quiet library in the lobby to Ireland’s largest roof garden, this is one hotel where you can escape the city on your doorstep. Q139 rooms (double €180-€380, suite €240-€480). JHFLKW hhhhh

Morrison Hotel B-2, Ormond Quay, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 887 2400, [email protected], www.mor-risonhotel.ie. MMetro Jervis. Originally designed by John Rocha, and opened in 1999 to great acclaim, the Irish style guru used Feng Shui to create the rooms. It was one of the first hotels in Dublin to epitomise modern sleek styling. And now, after a major extension adding 48 rooms ans a courtyard, the hotel is, more than ever, the epitome of urban chic. For pure bedroom indulgence, dock your iPod, slip into the fluffy bathrobe and drape yourself across the hand-painted Rocha throw. For dining and drinking, the Café Bar is a great place to enjoy an afternoon coffee or evening cocktails. And the Halo restaurant - with its own entrance - is full of antiques and opens onto the Bohemian Courtyard. You feel cool just hanging out here. Q138 rooms (single €135-195, double €135-415, suite €195 -2000). JHKW hhhh

Mid-RangeCamden Court Hotel B-3, Lwr Camden St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 9666, [email protected], www.camdencourthotel.com. MLuas Harcourt St. Rest your weary limbs at this well-known city centre hotel. Only 5mins from St. Stephens Green, and 30secs from the Luas, there’s no doubting Camden Cour t’s closeness to every city centre whim (but not too close to Temple Bar if you crave some quiet). The hotel has a full leisure centre which includes a 16m pool, gym, sauna and steamroom. Residents car parking is a definite bonus for such a great location. Feast at The Iveagh restaurant, then treat yourself to a cocktail or two at C Central bar before heading ’home’ to your refurbished contemporary bed-room. Job’s a good ’un. Q246 rooms (singles from €75, doubles from €85). Breakfast incl. JHFKDCW hhh

Clarion Hotel Dublin IFSC C-2, International Financial Services Centre (IFSC), D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 433 8800, [email protected], www.clarionhotelifsc.ie. MLuas Mayor Square. Light oak furnishings and neutral tones create a calming place to stay and sleep. Especially convenient for execs frequenting the Financial Services Centre... just stroll out the door and you’re there. Seal that deal by booking the fabulously cool penthouse for that important face-to-face - it could be the best investment you’ll ever make. And the adjacent one and two bedroom Clarion Quay Apartments allow you to create a more homely city base. The rooms at the front have great views along the River Liffey while at the all new Santé Médispa all your worries are massaged away. Q180 rooms (single €135-295, double €120-295, suite €195-210, apart-ment: €135-200). JHFKDCW hhhh

Jurys Inn Christchurch B-2, Christchurch Place, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 0000, [email protected], www.jurysinns.com. Nestled between two major historic tourist attractions - Christ Church and St. Patrick’s Cathedrals - this particular Jurys Inn is extremely well placed for all the major city sights, shops and nightlife. The hotel recently underwent a full refurbishment, and the budget-conscious among you will appreciate rooms that can accommodate up to three adults, or two adults and two children U10. The adjoining multi-storey car park is handy for drivers, though charges do apply. Q182 rooms (182 Total rooms ). Rooms from €80. JLKW hhh

Generator Hostel B-2, Smithfield Square, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 901 0222, [email protected], http://generatorhostels.com/. MLuas Smithfield. This European hostelling giant has arrived in Dublin - and conveniently landed right beside the Old Jameson Distillery and the Smithfield Luas stop. Which means young budget travellers get fantastic and afford-able accommodation in a great walk-to-the-city location. Exposed brick walls, city-inspired graffiti art, Jameson whiskey bottle chandeliers and even a pole dancing area feature in the stylishly spacious, industrial-chic foyer. Rooms range from 8-bed dorms to a large VIP suite with jacuzzi - hello! And nestling in between are en-suite twins and 4-8-bed private rooms, female only dorms and 4-6-bed dorms. All have storage lockers and funky bespoke artwork, and en-suites get you top notch shower and bathroom facilities. A lively bar with nightly entertainment and events, chill-out area and restaurant re-enforce the hostel’s social mantra. And free WiFi in social areas and computers in the net lounge keep you connected with all those new-found friends. A laundry service, luggage room, 24hr access secure key card system and free walk-ing tours make this low-cost overnight option pretty hard to beat. Individual and group travellers are all welcome. Q 500+ beds. Beds from €11. HEKW

Generator Hostel


14 Where to stay


Jurys Inn Custom House C-2, Custom House Quay, D1, MLUAS Busáras, tel. (+353)(0)1 854 1500, http://dub-linhotels.jurysinns.com/jurysinn_customhouse. Whether you’re arriving by car via the Dublin Port Tunnel, off the train from Connolly Station or by bus from Busáras, this Docklands hotel is just about the handiest in town. It’s walkable from the last two, and, if you’re feeling lazy, close to a LUAS stop for seamless city centre jaunts. The sparkly new Dublin Conven-tion Centre, O2 Arena and Grand Canal Theatre are also within very easy walking distance. Inside, many rooms overlook the River Liffey, Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship and harp-like Samuel Beckett Bridge. And their contemporary decor, with cosy chairs and bed throws exude a homely air. The foyer-level continues the contemporary theme with its bar, cafe and restaurant. Payable breakfasts, wifi and nearby parking keep you in control of the cost. Q 239 rooms (rooms from €80). JHKW

BudgetCastle Hotel B-1, 2-4 Great Denmark St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 874 6949, [email protected], www.castle-hotel.ie. This Georgian house hotel exudes all the elegance of its era yet is imminently affordable. Just 2mins from O’Connell St and opposite the Garden of Remembrance, the location is top notch and history-steeped. Within walking distance you’ll also find Dublin’s main shopping district, Temple Bar, Croke Park, and cultural heavyweights the Abbey and Gate theatres, Municipal Art Gallery, Dublin Writers Museum and James Joyce Cultural Centre. All bedrooms are individually decorated and maintain those original Georgian features including crystal chandeliers, plasterwork, magnificent antique mirrors and beautiful marble fireplaces. Large family rooms can accom-modate up to two adults and three children. And the hotel’s family-friendly facilities extend to special menus for children, while you can enjoy the local produce at the hotel bar and res-taurant where there’s traditional Irish music every weekend. Q130 rooms (single €59, double €84). Incl. breakfast. Free WiFi. Parking chargeable. JHLKW hhh

Maldron Hotel Smithfield B-2, Smithfield Plaza, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 485 0900, [email protected], www.maldronhotels.com. MLuas Smithfield. Clean lines and contemporary design define this bright and contemporary purpose-built hotel located behind The Old Jameson Distillery. Some rooms, including seven junior suites, have private balconies, offering panoramic views of the city and all rooms have power showers, coffee maker and free WiFi... perfect for the exec on the move. It’s a 5min walk to major shopping areas and tourist attractions. With the Luas just moments away access to the O2, Grand Canal Theatre and IFSC. Q92 rooms (room only from €69). JHLKW hhh

HostelsDublin Hostelling International (An Óige) C-1, 61 Mountjoy St, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 830 1766, [email protected], www.anoige.ie. Reminders of this building’s previous incarnation await at every turn. Once a convent and school, if you want to call home you do it - appropriately - from the confessional booth. And breakfast is served in the former chapel. An Óige is Irish for ’youth’, but all ages can avail of this centrally-located hostel which is the city’s only member of Hostelling International. Facilities include en-suite private rooms, dorms, an outside garden with seating and a children’s play area. The games room and book exchange feed the grey matter, and dinner and lunch can be served on a request basis for group bookings. Complimentary breakfast available. Q297 rooms (private per room: single €28-36, twin/double €48-50.50, triple - €66-75, 4-bed €84-97.50, dorms per person: 6-bed €16.50-21.50, 8-bed €14-20, 10-bed €13-19. JLKW

AirportPremier Inn Airside Retail Park, Swords, Co. Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 895 7777, www.premierinn.com. Clean lines set the tone for this great value hotel chain. Rooms have the expected array of extras including WiFi (chargeable), modem point, satellite TV and hairdryers. King size beds with top-notch pillows and duvets, coupled with the hotel chain’s Good Night Guarantee, mean you won’t need to worry about nearby aircraft disturbing your slumber. Parking is free for guests, and a free airport shuttle bus will ensure you arrive on time for your flight. Q Rooms from €70. Breakfast: Full Irish €11.95. Continental €7.75. HLKW

Radisson BLU Hotel Dublin Airport Dublin Airport, Co. Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 844 6000, [email protected], www.radissonblu.ie/hotel-dublinairport. Just at the Airport roundabout, you can’t get any closer to the terminals without boarding a plane. Nearby complimentary spa facilities, on-site business center with 27 meeting rooms, trad Irish pub, gourmet restaurant and express check-out keep you refreshed, refuelled and ready for your Dublin adventure. And when it’s time to depart, the free 24hr shuttle bus will whisk you to your terminal of choice... keep an eye on lobby TV screens for latest flight schedules. Q229 rooms (standard from €89, business class from €129, jr suite from €149, executive suites €250). HFLKDCW hhhh

Fancy overnighting in an Irish gate lodge, castle or lighthouse? These and many more unique and history-steeped properties are among the Irish Landmark Trust’s distinct portfolio of sixteen holiday lets.Now in its 20th year, the Trust takes abandoned and crumbling buildings from across the island of Ireland - many of national significance - and returns them to their former glory for everyone to enjoy. These meticulously renovated properties range from Drum Gatelodge on Northern Ireland’s stunning north Antrim Coast to Galley Head Lightkeeper’s House overlooking Co. Cork’s brooding coastline. Merrion Mews provides quirky city centre accommo-dation right at the heart of this gentrified Dublin green. And No. 25 Eustace Street (pic) in the city’s vibrant Temple Bar offers a tranquil Georgian haven a world away from the melee. Authentically decorated in period detail, these retreats offer beautiful escape in enchanting settings. All proper-ties sleep from two to ten people, so you can opt for a romantic weekend bolthole to a fun-filled get together with family and friends. And by staying at one of these properties, not only are you having a fantastic and memorable holiday in a magical setting, but you’re also helping preserve more incredible buildings for future visitors to enjoy.Find out more about the work of the Irish Landmark Trust - including buildings currently under renovation - and book your dream property by visiting www.irishlandmark.com or tel. (+353)(0)1 670 4733.

Irish Landmark Trust

Turn to p.42 and p.43 for features on the Ritz Carlton Powerscourt

and Castle Leslie

15where to eat


€ A really nice sandwich and coffee should be no more than €7-10€€ A cheap but tasty main course should be around €11-17€€€ Standard prices in most restaurants are mains €18-27€€€€ A pricey but good restaurant will have mains at €28-35€€€€€ An expensive restaurant will be flying to the skies with €35 and over.

Restaurant Price Key

AsianCafé Mao B-2, 2-3 Chatham Row, D2, MLuas St Ste-phen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 4899, www.cafemao.com. Bright and cheery, this is one of the most popular Asian Fusion venues in Dublin. The white walls - adorned with photos of Chairman Mao in an Andy Warhol vein - and primary coloured seats give it a real feel-good factor. As it is constantly busy, and you can’t book a table in advance, try to get there before the crowds. And, with a new coeliac menu, Mao has yet again increased its popularity. For those of you on a diet, the menu kindly notes what dishes are low in fat so no need to fret while munching on a tasty morsel. The Five Spice Chicken is one of the favourites. Q Mon - Tue 12:00 - 21:30, Wed - Sat 12:00 - 21:30, Sun 13:30 - 21:00. €€€. J

Saba B-2, 26-28 Clarendon St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 2000, www.sabadublin.com. Meaning “Happy Meeting Place” in Thai, Saba is an award-winning restaurant (Best Service Award, Cocktail Bar of the Year, Most Stylish Restaurant) that’s always packed with a

fun clientele. Long benches and enormous picture windows open on a summer’s evening, lending an air of downtown NYC. Stand-out dishes for your humble editor include Black Pepper Squid and Yellow Butternut Squash Curry. So popular is Saba that they now have a take-away and food store in Rathmines (see www.sabatogo.com). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. €€€. JS

Siam Thai B-2, South Andrew St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 3363, www.siamthai.ie. This contemporary Asian chain is so popular that they’ve sprung up all over the city. The owners have aired away from the clichéd Thai theme and opted for a stylish, streamlined and beautifully-lit interior. Subtle spotlit Asian artefacts provide the main clue to its cuisine’s origins. The staff are mostly Thai and very courte-ous, and the food is consistently top notch. No monosodium glutamate is used in any of their recipes, and starch and flour are kept to a minimum too, so you don’t have to worry about an expanding waistline during dinner. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:30. €€€. JK

Wagamama B-2, South King St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 2152, www.wagamama.ie. Visitors from Britain will instantly recognise this renowned noodle franchise. Designed in the style of a Japanese ramen bar, the unintimidating menu is very easy to read, with detailed descriptions of each dish printed on placemats that are then marked with your order. Its long benches mean the atmosphere is lively and fun - great for groups, if not romantic dinners a deux - but be warned... they tend to bring each dish when it’s ready rather than in any par-ticular order. A reasonably priced kids menu is also available. Q Mon - Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Thur - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. JKS

take-out menu available

wagamama.iewagamama ireland

lunchdeal

€9.95* includes

complimentarydrink

• delicious noodles• rice dishes• freshly squeezed juices• wine• sake• japanese beers• kids menu

12pm - 3pm | mon-fri

south king st | cork | blanchardstown | belfast | dundrum

south king st tel: 01 4782152

blanchardstown tel: 01 8219449 cork tel: 021 4278874

dundrum tel: 01 2157188

16 where to eat


Yamamori Noodles B-2, 71-72 South Great George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 5001, www.yamamori-noodles.ie. This renowned restaurant with its bold back and red exterior features an extensive menu of fabulous, fresh Japanese food. Small and large groups gravitate to its long benches and tables while very efficient and beautifully dressed staff serve up those exotic eats. The vegetarian menu is just as fulfilling, with plenty of tofu alternatives. Extremely popular with locals we recommend booking in advance. A real gem... this is sushi and fun all rolled into one (I thank you). If you can’t get a seat here, the (slightly) smaller Yamamori Café is directly across the street, serving a shorter but no less delicious choice of bites - the sweet potato chips are outstanding. Q Sun - Thur 12:00 - 10:30, Fri - Sat 12;00 - 23;30. Sushi €, Dinner €€. YJ

Burgers & PizzasElephant & Castle B-2, 18 Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 3121, www.elephantandcastle.ie. Ever since this informal restaurant opened its doors way back in 1989, queues of diners have descended every night. They come from miles around to savour the spicy chicken wings - a Dublin legend. The burger menu is as big as the Spire and the come hither desserts are just too tempting to refuse. Their brunch is great, too, so if you’re in the area, call by and savour its scrummy delights. Q Mon - Fri 18:00 - 23:30, Sat - Sun 10:30 - 23:30. €€. J

Hard Rock Café B-2, 12 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 7777, www.hardrock.com. The Hard Rock phenomenon arrived in the city in 2004, and this spacious diner-style cafe - with room for 350 rock rubberneck-ers - pays homage to Ireland’s, and the world’s, rich musical heritage. Bono’s shades and hand-written lyrics take centre stage in the U2 section, while a shirt worn by Elvis shares wall space with Macca’s boots, Madonna’s jacket and, of all things, a rug owned by Jimi Hendrix. In between ogling the rock and pop paraphernalia and watching music videos on the plasma screens, get stuck into the all-American menu’s smokehouse, burger, hot sandwich and salad selections. Then head to the souvenir shop and bag a ubiquitous HRC Dublin T-shirt to show the folks back home. Look for the big neon guitar shining down on Temple Bar. Q 12:00 - late €€€. J

TGI Friday’s B-2, St Stephen’s Green, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 1233, www.fri-days.ie. What began in New York in 1965 has now become a global brand - and its Dublin restaurant a landmark on the Green. The dazzling array of burgers, salads, fajitas, pasta, seafood - and over 100 cocktails - relentlessly satisfy new and returning fans. The Jack Daniel’s grill features a feast of fodder laced with the famous whiskey glaze. And little ones feeling a bit peckish can avail of the organic baby food which is free when you dine. Also at Blanchardstown Shopping Centre, tel: 822 5990; Blackrock, tel:288 5155; Dundrum Town Centre tel: 298 7299. Q 12:00 - 23:00 €€€. J

ContemporaryCrackbird B-2, 60 Dame Street, D2. One of the best pop-up-restaurants-turned-permanent fixtures, this place is the home of addictive chicken - hence the name. If you love fried chicken and all the sides that go with it, this is for you. It’s so popular there is no phone number to book with, or a website, but appropriately enough you can tweet them, and it always seems to be bursting with atmosphere. If chicken doesn’t get your wings flapping (sorry) try one of the sister restaurants - Skinflint on Crane Lane, Jo’Burger in Rathmines or the newly-opened one on Castle Market Street, or the very

red-blooded Bear on South William Street. But for us, this one is right at the top of the pecking order (sorry again). Q 12:00 - 00:00. €€. K

The Farm C2, 3 Dawson Street, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8654, www.thefarmrestaurant.ie. This is just what the name sug-gests - good wholesome food. Products are locally sourced and the majority are organic or free-range. As a result, menus are subject to seasonal changes. This is home-style cooking in a very funky location. Treat yourself to the Cottage Pie or the organic burgers, followed by some fantastic traditional apple tart. Most of the wines are also organic. This is guilt-free dining out. Q Sun - Thur 11:00 - 23:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 00:00. €€€. J

Green 19 B-3, 19 Camden Street, D2, MLuas Har-court St, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 9626, www.green19.ie. This very trendy little eaterie is like a li ttle bit of New York in Dublin, but without the high prices. I t’s a li ttle cool and a li ttle funky, but don’t worry about dressing up or dressing down as it’s also extremely laid-back and welcoming - dining out has never been such good value. The chefs aim to provide good, wholesome meals using seasonal produce, sourced in Ireland where possible. There is a mean cocktail list and the wine selection is pretty great, and affordable. Q Mon - Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. € - €€. JK

L Mulligan Grocer A-2, 18 Stoneybatter, D7, MLuas Museum Stop, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 9889, www.lmulli-gangrocer.com. True to its claim, L Mulligan Grocer is indeed a real eating and drinking emporium. Situated just out of the city centre but easily accessible by Luas, this is a real gem of an eatery, a great place to enjoy fresh, locally-sourced produce from a seasonal menu that changes weekly. The food is great and the atmosphere homely. It’s also an ideal spot for connoisseurs of beer and whiskey. There’s more than 100 imported beers and ales available, while the range of homegrown craft beers is not to be sneezed at either. Perhaps best of all is the range of whiskeys (and, as they point out, whiskies) from Ireland and around the world, a speciality of the establishment. Q Mon-Fri 16:00 - 23:30, Sat 12:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. €€. JK

Odessa B-2, 14 Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 7634, www.odessa.ie. Since it opened in 1994, Odessa has managed to stay ahead in the happening stakes. Re-nowned for its brunch, this contemporary space is the spiritual home for trendy types listening to funky music and keeping a subtle eye on their cool contemporaries. For those of you feeling under the weather, a pitcher of Bloody Mary will soothe the soul, and their Smoked Chicken Quesadillas and Odessa Burger will always deliver. The upstairs seating is all restaurant, whereas downstairs has the air of a relaxed drinking club. Now with a members club above the restaurant, this is definitely one for the haves and wannahaves. Have we just invented a word? Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 00:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. €€€. J

Pearl Brasserie C-3, 20 Merrion St Upr, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 661 3572, www.pearl-brasserie.com. Beautifully presented seafood and the use of traditional meats such as rabbit, pigeon and vension set this inven-tive menu apart from the norm. The warm-hued interior has well-spaced tables and wonderfully romantic alcoves perfect for intimate occasions. The hidden table at the back also makes an ideal venue for private dinner parties. An oyster bar, peat burning fire, fish tanks and modern art add to the special ambience. And it’s always nice to know

17where to eat


children are welcome in such a classy restaurant. Find it beside the Merrion Hotel. Q Lunch Mon - Fri 12:00 - 14:30, Dinner Mon - Sat 18:00 - 23:30. €€€€. J

The Chef’s Counter C-2, 3rd Floor, The Pig’s Ear, 4 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 3865, www.thepigsear.ie. One of the city’s most popular restaurants has extended their dining offer with this new intimate epicurean experience. Lovers of good food can indulge in a 12-course tasting menu prepared by the chef in this informal yet stylish upstairs space. As ever, it’s all about fresh, seasonal produce - this time inspired by modern world cuisine. Share a table of eight or take one of the six seats at the chef’s counter itself. Booking is essential, so call at least 24hrs in advance. Q Mon-Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 22:00. €€€€. J

Winding Stair B-2, 40 Lower Ormond Quay, D1, MLuas Middle Abbey St, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 7320, www.winding-stair.com. This Dublin landmark became famous in the 70s when writers, musicians and artists would meet here for food and wine. I t has since been renovated and is now a chic restaurant complete with the type of chairs you used to find in school. With a bookshop downstairs, and a restaurant upstairs with magnificent views over the Liffey, it really is in a world of its own. This is good food - with the emphasis on organic and locally sourced ingredients - in a great location, and you can even buy a book downstairs before 17:00 and bring it upstairs to peruse while enjoying your meal. Find it at one end of the Ha’penny Bridge. Q Lunch Sun - Thur 12:00 - 17:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 15:30. Dinner 17:30 - 22:30. €€€. J

EuropeanBagots Hutton B-2, 28 South William Street, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 534 3956, [email protected]. Bagots Hutton was established in Dublin in 1829 and though it sadly closed in the 1980s, it has now reopened as a fine example of the fusion between classical and modern tastes. With 30 years of experience in the service industry, Giovanni Viscardi and Brian Deery have created a lovely restaurant and wine bar that focuses on good food and wines in an atmospheric setting. The food is very much dominated by European-influenced an-tipasti dishes - bruschetta, Parma ham, charcuterie, smoked salmon, salads and caprese - perfectly matching the wines on offer and creating that special social aura associated with sharing good food and good wine in good company. Q Mon-Thur 11:00 - 23:30, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 01:30, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. €€. JKW

Gallagher’s Boxty House B-2, 20-21 Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 2762, www.boxtyhouse.ie. This traditional Irish restaurant in the heart of Temple Bar brims with antiques and curios and is a perfect place to sample Irish cuisine. As well as breakfast, stews, Dublin’s famous coddle and great winter feel good/comfort food, you can sample the eponymous Boxty - a traditional Irish potato pancake with different fillings. Ideally located, it’s a favourite with tourists who wish to try the local food and there’s live trad music in the evenings. Q Mon - Thur, Sun 11:00 - 22:30, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. JE

L’Gueuleton B-2, 1 Fade St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 675 3708, www.lgueuleton.com. Serving provincial French food, this bistro-style restaurant with its leather drapes, large bar, big mirrors and picture windows feels very European. And its chilled-out atmosphere has won

it Best Casual Dining 2009. The chefs cook up a storm behind the bar while the staff try to keep up - and the crowd loves it. The food is top quality and very filling, which is as you’d expect from hearty fare - such as venison casserole or Toulouse sausages - and a name that translates as ’blowout’. You can’t book, so get there early to secure a table. Q Mon-Sat 12:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00. €€€. JB

Pig’s Ear C-2, 4 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 3865, www.thepigsear.ie. It’s rare that diners will catch a glimpse of their favourite celeb chef working up a sweat at the helm of a Dublin restaurant. So it’s reassuring to note that head chef Stephen McAlister, (RTÉ’s The Res-taurant and The Afternoon Show) is a permanent fixture at this classy Nassau Street eaterie. McAlister’s dishes are best described as a modern take on traditional Irish cuisine. And since i t’s been awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand, all you hungry tourists will be guaranteed top notch Irish ingredients. For lunch-time munchers check out the cafe menu with light bite treats. Evening diners can enjoy a whole host of traditional platters such as bacon and cabbage, shepherds pie and (as the name suggests) deep fried crispy pig’s ears - a delicacy we’re assured. Look for the bright pink door, then ascend the staircase to the two spacious and contemporary rooms overlooking the leafy grounds of Trinity College. Q Mon - Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 22:00. €€€. J

Unicorn C-3, 12b Merrion Court, Merrion Row, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 676 2182, www.unicornrestaurant.com. Famed for its piano bar, Unicorn is one of Dublin’s most popular eateries yet they can usually find a table for you even if you haven’t booked. The antipasto is delicious and the menu includes signature dishes using Italian and

18 where to eat


Irish ingredients. Whether you’re looking for a fun night out, good quality food and a quiet chat, or a bite to eat in the piano bar, this place can accommodate you. There’s even a resident table magician on Wed and Thur evenings. The restaurant’s popularity extends to their food emporium, and café (Mon-Sat 08:00 - 20:00). Q Mon-Sat 12:30-16:30, Mon-Thur 18:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-23:30. Closed Sun. €€€€. JES

Fish & ChipsBeshoff Restaurant B-2, 6 O’Connell St, D1, MLuas Jervis St, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 4400, www.beshoffres-taurant.com. Set in a wonderful old building with black and white tiled floors, this busy restaurant is full of charm and serves very tasty fish and chips. The original Mr Beshoff arrived from his native Russia in 1912 and established what has become a bit of a Dublin institution. Good qual-ity fish and chips are served on a plate (no less) in the upmarket self-service restaurant that also stocks wine or beer. For hunger pangs on the go, take away is also avail-able. But we suggest you stay and soak up the tradition. Q Sun - Weds: 09:00 - 21:00, Thurs - Sat: 09:00 - 22:00. €. JS

Leo Burdock B-2, 2 Werburgh St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 0306, www.leoburdock.com. This has been a local institution since 1913. Just opposite Christ Church Cathe-dral, this famous fish and chip shop is always busy. Fresh fish, tasty batter and good portions make this a classic so popular they’ve opened sit-down restaurants in other loca-tions. Many famous faces have popped by for a portion and become immortalised in Burdock’s Hall of Fame. And if the grub’s good enough for Tom Cruise, who are we to argue? Q 12:00 - 00:00. €. JS

IndianJaipur B-2, 41-46 South Great George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0999, www.jaipur.ie. Hailed by critics and locals, this is a tantalisingly delicious and conveniently-located modern Indian restaurant. Using local ingredients such as Wicklow lamb, chefs practice the philosophy of Ayurveda - good health - with their innovative and extensive dishes. As well as boasting a fresh take on spices, the menu has plenty of vegetarian options - as expected of the Indian subcontinent. Q Mon - Sun 17:00 - 23:00. €€€. J

Jewel In The Crown B-2, 5 South Wlliam St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0681, www.jewelinthecrown.ie. From the outside it might be easy enough to pass this restaurant by, but once you’ve been you’ll be sure to return. Early bird menus are great value and you’re only concern will be ensur-ing you don’t eat too much before your mains arrive. Food is tasty and there’s a great choice of hot and spicy fare. Q Mon - Sat Lunch: 12:00 - 14:30, Dinner 15:00 - 24:00 €€. J

ItalianDunne & Crescenzi C-2, 14 & 16 South Frederick St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 3815, www.dunneandcres-cenzi.com. Established by an Italian husband and Irish wife team who moved here from Rome in 1995, this authentic Italian bistro is great for lunch or a low-key romantic evening. It’s also ideal for those days and evenings when you want nice wholesome food that’s not too heavy or rich. Several loca-tions across the city all serve the same food and fantastic range of Italian wines, and the chain is part of the Slow Food Revolution. Fans can also take home some fantastico foodie eats and treats. Q N° 16: Mon - Sat 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. N° 14: Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Tue - Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€. J

SeafoodLes Frères Jacques B-2, 74 Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4555, www.lesfreresjacques.com. Escape the bustle of Dame Street at this charming - and award-winning - restaurant Français. French cuisine, wines and waiters combine to create a warm and intimate vibe that’s perfect for a romantic meal or especially good value lunch. Seafood, steaks and delicious desserts are served in an unpretentious setting of muted tones, wooden tables and chairs and crisp white linens. Wine buffs will especially enjoy the 50% discount on full bottles every Monday and Tuesday. Early bird menus run 18:00 - 19:00, perfect timing if you’re heading out or to a show later. And right next door to the Olympia Theatre you couldn’t be more spoiled if you tried. Q Mon-Fri: 12:30 - 14:30, 18:30 - 22:30, Sat:18:00 -22:30. €€€€. J

Lobster Pot D-3, 9 Ballsbridge Terrace, Ballsbridge, D4, tel. (+353)(0)1 668 0025, www.thelobsterpot.ie. Warm and inviting with a romantic elegance and enduring passion for fresh, local produce - this Ballsbridge restaurant is a real city stand-out. Opened in 1980 - with the original key members of staff still here - The Lobster Pot offers a bountiful menu of classic meat and seafood dishes, among them Lobster Thermidor, Steak Tartar and Salmon Mornay. The fresh fish is exquisitely prepared, the game in season and the meat beautifully tender. And with a manager who’s also the sommelier, wine buffs will be particularly enamoured of the selection. Just around the corner from many of leafy D4’s hotels and embassies, this Dublin gem is well worth the trip. Q Mon - Sat 18:00 - 22:30. €€€€.

19where to eat


Lord Edward Restaurant & Tavern B-2, 23 Christ-church Place, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 454 2420, www.lordedward.ie. Dublin’s oldest seafood restaurant dates back to 1890 and overlooks Christ Church Cathedral. It’s a history-steeped, ye olde three-in-one pub, lounge and res-taurant named after United Irishman Lord Edward Fitzerald. All manner of marine morsels are available in an equally replete selecion of cooking options - from scallops to sole, prawns to seafood platter. So extensive is the menu, in fact, that it’s positively oceanic. With Guinness on tap, your all-round eating indulgence is complete. Q Lunch: Mon - Fri 12:30 - 14:30, Diner: Mon - Sat 18:00 - 22:45. €€€€. J

Spanish & Latin AmericaAcapulco B-2, 7 Sth Great Georges St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 1085, www.acapulco.ie. Sizzling with all the colour and exuberance of Latin America, this funky laid-back restaurant serves spicy fajitas, burritos, enchiladas and other authentic Mexican treats. Burgers, steaks and salads ensure all tastes are catered for... and the herbivores among you will love that practically every dish has a vegetarian option. For a finale you’ll find in few (if any) other places, check out the deep fried ice cream on the dessert menu. Margaritas and tequilas guarantee a lively night to remember - just keep an eye on those pitchers. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 22:30, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. €€. JS

Port House B-2, 64a South William St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0298, www.porthouse.ie. Dungeon-like and lit only by candles, make sure you remove your shades (hello, Bono) before entering this underground fairytale setting. Wine and tapas are consumed against a backdrop of brick walls, dripping candles and wine bottles... setting the scene for a gloriously atmospheric night. Order a couple of tapas plates to start with, then decide on your favourites. No reservations are accepted, and it is always busy, so arrive just ahead of your preferred eating hour. Q Sun - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 00:30. €€. J

VegetarianCornucopia Wholefood Restaurant B-2, 19 Wicklow St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7583, www.cornucopia.ie. What was once a health food shop with a little café at the back has expanded over the years to become a fully fledged restaurant. It’s so popular, it has expanded into the Georgian house next door and doubled its capacity. All the delicious vegetarian and vegan soups, salads, desserts and globally-inspired mains are freshly prepared on the premises every day. And yeast, dairy, gluten and wheat free diets are also catered for, making this one Horn of Plenty worth getting your teeth around. Breakfasts are definitely worth the trip alone, and will keep you replete as you explore the city. Find it just off Grafton Street. Q Mon - Tue 08:30 - 21:00, Wed - Sat 08:30 - 22:15, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. JS

Cafés & BrasseriesAvoca Café B-2, 11-13 Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 4215, www.avoca.ie. Walking into Avoca is like step-ping into a glittering treasure trove, with to-die-for clothing, accessories and gifts tempting the eye at every turn. And the top floor café continues the theme with its gloriously indulgent eats that are also available to take away from the basement. This renowned Irish brand has ten branches in Ireland, one in America... and three very popular cookbooks. Its city centre flagship location also has a rooftop garden - unusual in Dublin - and their broccoli and feta cheese salad and carrot salad are both so divine that you really will just want to keep on eating. De-licious. Q Mon - Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00 €€€. JS

Epicurean Food Hall B-2, Junction Middle Abbey St and Lower Liffey St, D1, MLuas Jervis St. Established over nine years ago, this light and bright international Food Hall is the only one of its kind in Ireland. Fifteen dedicated outlets conjure up an unrivalled choice of scrumptuous cuisine from across the globe - and at very reasonable prices. Indulge in Chinese, Indian, Turkish, I talian and Mexican food, or go traditional with Fish & Chips and Homemade Irish Pies & Stews. Delicious coffees and teas complete the gourmet experience which can be enjoyed ’to go’ or at the communal seating for over 300 people. And, to complete your all-round experience, Irish dancers and musicians entertain the eaters every Tuesday and Thursday from 17:00 - 19:00. Ample on-street, Arnotts and Jervis Street parking - and on the Luas line - make this an easy to reach, affordable and delicious city centre dining experience. Find it just two minutes walk from O’Connell Street and the Ha’penny Bridge. The Middle Abbey Street entrance is directly opposite Arnotts, with the main shop-ping streets of Henry Street and Mary Street close by. Q Mon - Wed 09:45 - 19:00, Thur 09:45 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 19:00. €€. JS

Queen of Tarts B-2, 4 Cork Hill, Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 7499, www.queenoftarts.ie. Let them eat cake! And who could resist in such a quaint setting? This tiny tea-room just opposite Dublin castle is jam-packed with wonderful home-made goodies. From the simplicity of the potato and onion pies to the scrumptuous decadence of the raspberry tarts, these savoury and sweet eats just couldn’t be better. And if you just can’t wait to sink your teeth into their Rustic Apple Crumble, try out the larger premises just around the corner on Cow’s Lane. Q Mon - Fri 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JUS


20 Nightlife


BarsAgainst The Grain B-3, 11 Wexford St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 470 5100, www.winefoodbeer.com. Against The Grain by name, against the grain by nature. This cosy gastro-pub is ideal if you’re looking for a night out with a difference. With easy-listening tunes on the radio this is a great place to catch up with friends. Choose a pint from their selection of over 100 beers, but forget about asking for your ’usual’. For the connoiseur there’s the beer of the month to experiment with. Tasty bites are on offer with locally-sourced produce creating homely fare. When you’re done with all of that step back to your youth and grab a board game to while away an hour or two. Q Mon - Tue 15:00 - 23:00, Wed - Fri 18:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. Food Served 12:00 - 21:00 Daily JKW

Dakota B-2, 9 South William St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 672 7696, www.dakotabar.ie. This place is classy - tasteful leather furniture, very, very good-looking clientele, and cool music. It’s a pity that some of the prices are needlessly steep, but it’s definitely a cool place. Only a few short years old at this stage, Dakota has promptly established itself as a reputable, fashionable bar. Even though it covers a lot of ground, it can get crowded on weekends, so it’s advisable to get there before 20:00 if you want a seat or, better yet, one of those nice booths. Q Mon - Wed 12:00 - 23:30, Thur - Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Food Served: Mon - Fri: 12:00 - 21:00, Sat - Sun: 12:00 - 20:00 JK

Dawson Lounge C-2, 25 Dawson St, D2, MLuas St Ste-phen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 0311. Dublin’s full of ’super-pubs’, places so big you might get lost going to the loo. But if you’re looking for something different this is the spot. Hailed as the smallest bar in the city (and perhaps country), the Dawson Lounge has a refreshingly compact capacity of roughly 24. Naturally, it fills up quickly, which means a virtual guarantee of a warm, convivial atmosphere. And if that’s not enough to warm the cockles of your heart you can grab a warm bowl of soup or a quick sandwich. How quaint. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 01:00 - 00:30, Sun - 13:00 - 21:00 (or 23:00 depending on crowd) J

Garage Bar B-2, Essex St, Temple Bar, D2. If you like the simple life it doesn’t get better than this. There’s nothing fancy about this bar but that’s the great thing about it. It’s all about good beer, good tunes and good people to share it all with. Decorated with saw dust and the spools from electric cables; minimalist is one way to describe the décor. An important note is that the toilets are uni-sex and so close to the bar that you can hear people ordering while you wash your hands. Expect rock tunes on the speakers, casually-dressed locals and a good time all round. Q Mon - Tue 17:00 - 00:00, Wed - Fri :17:00 - 02:30, Sat - Sun 17:00 - 02:30 J

Globe B-2, 11 South George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 1220, www.globe.ie. Housed in the same building as RiRa nightclub, the Globe just about straddles the line between cool and too cool. A big favourite in Dublin, especially among musicians and music fans, it boasts good tunes and a cosy atmosphere. Sitting at the bar is nice, but if you’re really lucky, you might land one of the big tables beside its even bigger windows. It’s really vibrant on weekends with funky clientele, but it’s also a good spot for a quiet drink earlier in the week. On weeknights entry to RiRá is free, but weekend nights are run by independent promoters who apply a cover charge. Q Mon - Fri 17:00 02:30, Sat 16:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 01:00 JE

International B/C-2, 23 Wicklow St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 9250, www.international-bar.com. This enduring venue is best known for its comedy nights, held upstairs and in ’The Comedy Cellar’. Tickets are usually around the €10 mark which, for the show you get, is great value. There’s a great mix of established and rising comics, and well-known faces have taken to the stage as surprise guests. Comedy shows run seven-nights a week, but (depending on the night or day) there’s also theatre and live music. Q Mon - Thur 10:00 - 23:30, Fr - Sat 10:00 0 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:30. JEKW

Market Bar B-2, Fade St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 613 9094, www.marketbar.ie. This is a super trendy, but not super pretentious spot with a difference. The building was once a loading bay and it’s maintained a very minimalist approach to décor. There’s no music, but you would hardly notice with the fantastic atmosphere. The bar was one of the first designed with the smoking ban in mind and there’s a large heated smoking area at the impressive archway-entrance. Despite the vastness of the venue it fills up quickly, and its restaurant section is always buzzing with people stocking up on tasty tapas dishes, so for food we recommend booking in advance. Q Mon - Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Food Served Mon - Thurs 12:00 - 21:30, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 15:00 - 21:00 JKW

Porterhouse Temple Bar B-2, 16-18 Parliament St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 8847, www.porterhouse-brewco.com. This is the best of three branches of The Porterhouse in Dublin. Temple Bar can be a bit touristy and full-on for some tastes, but we like this microbrewery and restaurant. It serves a little taste of local cuisine (insofar as you can call Irish food cuisine) and a very impressive variety of beers - the Porterhouse Red is especially inviting. It tow-ers over Parliament Street with its three floors and always has a crowd - a nice mix of locals, city workers and tourists. Sometimes they have decent live music, and it’s got its share of cosy little corners to combat the sprawling size. Q Mon - Thur 11:30 - 00:30, Fri - Sat 11:30 - 02:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. Food Served: Mon - Sun: 12:00 - 21:30 JEK

The Black Sheep B-2, 61 Capel Street, D1, MLuas Jervis Street, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 0013, www.wine-foodbeer.com. The sister-pub of Against The Grain, this is one crafty place, with a range of specialist homegrown and international craft beers and ales on offer in a setting that looks like a cross between an old-fashioned alehouse and someone’s living room. There’s 23 craft beers on tap, plenty more in bottles, and if you feel overwhelmed by the choice, you can opt for a taster beer bat consisting of three different drinks of your choice, so you can try each before deciding on your favourite. The food is good and hearty, there’s retro board games to play and the atmosphere is great, making this one of the coolest pubs in Dublin at the moment. Q Mon-Thur 12:00 - 23:30, Fri-Sat 12:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. J

ClubsClub Nassau C-2, 1-2 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4388, www.clubnassau.com. Don’t even think of re-questing the latest chart-music here. Club Nassau is Dublin’s only dedicated 80s club... so much so, it has even revived the classic ’slow-set’. So get the shoulder pads out and prepare to step back in time at this disco wonderland. The club has been recently renovated and a second floor added for you to chill out and rest your weary feet. There is a mixed crowed, from those recapturing their early days to others just digging the retro vibe. Q Fri, Sat 23:00 - 02:30 Cover Charge €10, Fri night 2 for 1 concessions available online. J

21Nightlife


RíRá B-2, Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 1220, www.rira.ie. One of the best clubs in Dublin, RíRá usually boasts a mix of hip hop, funk and whatever makes your hips move. Its name (pronounced ’ree-raw’) is derived from the Irish expression rírá agus ruaille buaile, which (very roughly) translates to ’messy fun’. Anyway, it’s got some nice nooks and crannies, a smallish dancefloor, some cosy seats and even a foosball table in its basement. The ground floor is mellower and quieter, with laid-back tunes and a retro film on an overhead projector. Q Mon - Sat 23:00 - 02:30 Admission varies from free to €10.

Sugar Club C-3, 8 Lower Leeson St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 678 7188, www.the-sugarclub.com. If clubs were animals The Sugar Club would be a chameleon. This very slick theatre-style venue hosts events from music to comedy to classic film-themed nights to cabaret and even the odd table quiz. From 23:00 the venue opens as a nightclub with the sounds of funk, soul, hip-hop, electro and more playing on different nights. With such variety we strongly recommended checking online in advance to see what will be the night’s entertainment. Live events run 20:00 - 23:00. Ticket prices vary. Q Live events: 20:00 - 23:00. Club 23:00 - 03:00 Live shows and club entry vary. J

Indie music venuesWhelans B-3, 25 Wexford St, off Camden St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 0766, www.whelanslive.com. Recently refurbished, but still not too fancy, Whelans is an understated pub and fantastic music venue. Its wooden interiors and laid-back vibe are appropriate given its strong reputation as a music venue. It’s a good place for a quiet afternoon pint, or a night out as the gig section opens the doors to join the pub on weekends. This makes for a fun (if sometimes jam-packed) in-die music club. Many local musicians played this venue on their way up and some still drink there. The punters vary in age and style, but the most common thread is a love for music and late drinks. One tip for newcomers - don’t try to talk to that man with the hat at the bar who isn’t moving (many have) - he’s made of stone. Q Mon - Fri 14:20 - 02:30, Sat 17:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 01:30 Cover Charge €10 after 22.30 Fri & Sat. JE

Late barsBruxelles B/C-2, Harry St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 5362. Next to the statue of Phil Lynnot, this bar is unofficially split into three sections. Upstairs is a normal Dublin pub and downstairs is divided by music - rock to the left, indie-rock to the right. In a nice location just off Grafton Street, the pub inevitably attracts a varying clientelle from city workers to ageing bikers, regular dubs, indie kids and tourists. I t’s a busy place, but keep an eye out for the snug little corner upstairs in the right, secluded from the (occasionally) maddening crowd. On those rare occasions when the weather’s nice, the outdoor seats are perfect for al fresco pints. A friendly, warm bar with great music too. JE

Hogans B-2, 35 George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 5904. Nestled on the corner of Fade Street (home of the Hills-style reality show of the same name), this is a fun, lively and loud spot to meet friends. With a mixed crowed it’s generally laid-back and cool, without being too trendy. At weekends it’s very popular and when the ground-floor bar fills, the crowd spills over into the base-ment for some funky tunes. This is a place for good fun and good pints, and, with a late licence at the weekend it’s definitely one of the better pubs in Dublin. QOpen 13:00 - 23:30, Thu, Sun 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:30. J

Messrs Maguire B-2, 1/2 Burgh Quay, D2, MLuas Middle Abbey St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 5777, www.messrsmaguire.ie. This late pub comprises roughly four floors (the jury’s still out on whether part of the stairway, close to the entrance, counts as a floor). It’s a nice place- with a lively atmosphere or, if you’re there at off-peak times, a mellow vibe. The view from the upper floors is fantastic, especially if you’re lucky enough to get a window seat on one of the higher storeys. They tend to have a big screen for major sporting occasions, so it’s not a bad place on match days. They’ve got great unique beers on tap too, as well as some basic pub food. Very mainstream, and maybe a little loud for some tastes, but it is popular. QOpen 10:30 - 00:30, Wed 10:30 - 01:30, Thu 10:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 02:30. Food Served: Mon - Sun: 10:30 - 21:30 JK

Number 3 Fade Street B-2, Off Sth Great Georges St, D2. Tis a rare thing when a Dublin bar opens with no proper title: Other names being banded about include The Bar with No Name and Number 3. Even the entrance is low-key- a simple doorway with an occasional sign. The interior is like a classy speakeasy- domestic couches, tables and chairs, hardwood floors and lovely Georgian architecture create a fancy house party vibe. The music is a nice mix of soul and accessible alternative and the crowd are uber-cool 20 and 30-somethings. Be warned - it gets pretty packed on week-ends. QOpen 13:00 - 23:30, Thu, Sun 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:30. Brunch served Sat & Sun. JK

Twisted Pepper B-2, 54 Middle Abbey St, D1, MLuas Jervis St, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 4038, www.bodytonic.com/thetwistedpepper/. Neighbour to the intimate, yet super trendy Academy, Twisted Pepper is the perfect spot for people who like their music in a laid back venue. The bar often has emerging Irish acts lined up for your entertainment

22 Nightlife


and is full of very cool people. And just when we thought the place couldn’t get any cooler they opened a café on Sat and Sun. The café opens 12:00 - 17:00 and there’s a small col-lection of books for your entertainment and cool jazz on the radio. Q Mon - Wed 16:00 - 00:00, Thur - Fri 16:00 - 02:30, Sat - Sun 12:00 02:30. JEW

Workman’s Club B-2, 10 Wellington Quay, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 6692, www.theworkmansclub.com. With its back turned nonchalantly to Temple Bar, the Work-man’s Club, situated on the quays beside the Clarence Hotel, is the thinking person’s indie spot. It hosts live gigs from the loud and lively to the quietly acoustic, comedy shows, tast-ings and indie DJ sets, spread out over several floors. The ever-changing layout is a mystery, with new rooms appearing out of nowhere every few months, but the average age of the crowd seems to rise with every set of stairs you climb. It gets crowded on weekends and seats are at a premium, especially on the gloriously riotous first floor, but despite be-ing one of the city’s most alluring venues, its best feature is that you don’t have to be too cool for school to feel at home. Q 17:00 - 02:30. J

Traditional BarsBlarney Inn C-2, 1-2 Nassau St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4388, www.blarneyinn.com. I f Dublin’s nightlife hasn’t been up to expectations - ie, not enough céilís for your liking - this is the perfect spot. Set in one of the city’s oldest buildings (dating back to 1837) the bar’s trad appeal flows seamlessly from its exposed brick walls, Irish street signs and local pics, drinks and ephemera to the traditional music and Irish dancers... you couldn’t pack more Irishness into one spot. Shows are on Fri and Sat nights and a special pre-show dinner menu is also available (see Where to Eat). Book in advance to secure your spot and, even better, bag a bedroom in the adjoining Kildare Street budget hotel (see Where to Stay). Q Mon - Thur 10:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. Food Served: Weekdays 10:00 - 22:00, Weekends until 23:00. JEK

Davy Byrnes C-2, 21 Duke St, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 5217, www.davybyrnes.com. Opened in 1889 and just off Grafton St, this pub has been going strong ever since. It has a strong association with James Joyce who used to be a regular here and mentioned it in his seminal tomes Dubliners and Ulysses. Every Bloomsday (16 June) tourists and locals flock here to sample the gorgonzola sandwich and glass of burgundy. Look up to catch a glimpse of the magnificent stained glass-domed ceiling. The fixtures are pre-WW1 and the food top notch. It gets particularly full on Fri, sunny evenings and rugby weekends. Arrive early and grab a seat outside to enjoy the sights of Dubliners passing by as you eat a tasty lunch or dinner and sink a cold drink. Q Mon - Thur 11:00 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 00:30, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Food Served: Mon - Thurs 12:00 - 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. JK

Frank Ryan’s 5 Queen Street, Smithfield, D7, MLuas Smithfield, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 5204, www.frankry-ans.com. Straddling the postcodes of D1 and D7, as well as Smithfield and the city centre, this great little bar also somehow manages to sit comfortably as a traditional pub that attracts a relatively young (think 30-ish upwards) and laid-back crowd. The great music that usually cranks up after 10pm helps, as does one of the best pints of Guinness in Dublin. The dark corners lend an air of the old-school tavern, as do the miscellaneous memorabilia hanging off the walls and ceiling, but the ambience remains bright and youthful. Friendly, atmospheric, cosy, welcoming, traditional and fun: Ryans is all of these things. But most of all it is a genuine, down to earth, real Irish pub in the best possible sense of the words. JEW

Long Hall B-2, 51 George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 1590. The red carpet is decidedly less opulent, we imagine, from when it first opened, but the Long Hall is a favourite for a diverse crowd. Students, ageing Dubliners and professionals all flock here for its traditional atmo-sphere and good pints of Guinness. Some customers think it’s a little too old school (we wouldn’t mind if it was air-conditioned, for example), but others believe that it’s endearingly old-fashioned. It can be a little stuffy, but the atmosphere is undeniable when it’s busy: a very Irish pub. Q Mon - Wed 16:00 - 23:30, Thur 13:00 - 23:30, Fri - - Sat 13:00 - 00:30, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. J

O’Donoghue’s B-2, 15 Merrion Row, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 660 7194, www.odonoghues.ie. This pub is famous for its music tradition. It was here that the city’s sweethearts - The Dubliners got their start, and since then it has played host to many more

Dragon B-2, South Great George’s St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 1590. This place has only become a gay bar in the last few years - becoming the sister bar to the nearby George - and is a big draw in the local scene. Loud, boisterous and fabulous fun, The Dragon is an unpretentious and lively place for singles, couples or groups. It’s also probably the most drag queen-friendly bar in Central Dublin. Expect anything... except a quiet drink! Q Mon - Sat 17:00 - 02:30, Sun 17:00 - 23:00 J

George B-2, 89 South Great Georges St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 2983, www.thegeorge.ie. As a gay bar it’s practically an institution, and indeed, a big draw in the local scene with a lot more niche than, say, The Front Lounge. As a place for young guys to meet, we’ve heard a lot of endorsements, and on a Friday or Saturday night you can hear the crowd and music from across the street. Its Sunday night bingo, hosted by TV personality Shirley Temple Bar, are almost legendary. If you’re lucky, cross-dressing performance artist Veda will be perform-ing that night too. But the must-see is Veda’s drag show on Wednesday nights which comprise of funny, compel-ling and inventive lip-synching interpretations of all your favourite hits. You go girl. Q Mon - Tue 12:30 - 23:30, Wed - Sat 12:30 - 02:30, Sun 12:30 - 01:30 Free Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri, Wed €4 after 23:00 (€2 for students or lgbt association cardholders, Sat €10 after 23:00, Sun €8 after 23:00. YE

PantiBar B-2, 7-8 Capel St, D1, MLuas Four Courts, tel. (+353)(0)1 874 0710, www.pantibar.com. Once upon a time this was Gubu, but that was be-fore well-known Dublin drag queen Miss Panti took it over and renovated it. The makeover extended beyond a lick of paint, and a stage now takes pride of place at the end of the bar. PantiBar has firmly established itself in the local gay scene - competing strongly with The George, Dragon and The Front Lounge. Not surprisingly, it plays host to a number of special nights, including drag performances, karaoke, make and do and movie nights. The Panti show on Sat is a blast. A word of warning - though deservedly popular, PantiBar might be a bit full-on for certain tastes. Q Open from 17:00. J

Gay Bars

23Nightlife


famous Irish faces. It continues to host many spontane-ous trad sessions and everyone is welcome to join in the singing. It’s a low-key pub but the atmosphere is truly what makes it. On Thur and Fri mingle with the well-heeled as they unwind after their hectic weeks, but be warned, arrive early if you want to find a seat. It’s also a hotspot for sports fans, particularly during the Six Nation’s rugby Tournament. O’Donoghue’s has everything you would expect from a traditional Irish pub - the craic and the ceoil (the fun and music). Q Mon - Thur 10:30 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:30 - 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. JE

Stag’s Head B-2, 1 Dame Court, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 3687, www.louisfitzgerald.com/stagshead. Slightly hidden from its neighbouring Dame Street, The Stag’s Head, is a Dublin pub in the best sense. Attracting a varied clientele from the young to the old, the locals and the tourists, and the mainstream to the offbeat. Spanning a ground floor, first floor and basement, it is reassuringly unpretentious. One reason for the varied crowd is the fact that it sits only a few yards from mainstream pubs (like Ma-digans and 4 Dame Lane) and slightly offbeat ones (like the Globe), but most punters, we imagine, are attracted to its simplicity. There’s live Irish music Thurs, Fri and Sat nights. Q Mon - Thur 10:30 - 23:30, Fri - Sat 10:30 - 00:30, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. Barfood Served Mon - Sat 12:00 - 18:00. JEKW

Fitzwilliam Card Club C-3, Clifton Hall, Lower Fitzwilliam St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 611 4677, www.fitzwilliamcardclub.com. It’s all gone Oceans Eleven at this large open-plan casino situated near salubrious Merrion Square. You may not bump into Pitt or Clooney, but you will find yourself in convivial and relaxed surroundings as you up the ante at one of several gaming tables. Novices and regulars can join in the nightly poker games. Check out their website to see what suits you best, and phone the poker desk in advance if you’re looking for a particular game. Poker Festivals, Leagues and competitions are also held in this large Georgian room overlooked by a distinctive staircase and secluded Balcony Room - itself avail-able for private parties. In Ireland, by law, you have to be a member to enter this casino which is designated a private members club. So don’t forget to bring valid photo ID to register and receive your free €10 bet. Although a casino and card club, you can also sit and enjoy a coffee and lunch without playing any of the games. All poker tournaments are available for online booking via the Club website at www.fitzwilliamcard-club.com. Q 24hrs Free Membership.

Chips with everything

Wine BarsBagots Hutton B-2, 28 South William Street, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 534 3956, [email protected]. Dublin lost a very fine establishment in the 1980s when this, one of Ireland’s oldest wine bars which first opened in 1829, closed. So the city licked its lips and welcomed the news that duo Giovanni Viscardi and Brian Deery were to reopen the revered establishment, and their venture does not disappoint. With more than thirty Old World wines available by the glass or bottle they live up to the reputation of the 300-year-old wine cellar. And the restored original walls and archways introduce a tasteful new look successfully fusing classical and modern styles to create a lovely, authentic bar that is both intimate and atmospheric. The food is very good too, the European-influenced antipasti dishes - bruschetta, Parma ham, charcuterie, salads and caprese - perfectly complementing the wines and creating that special social aura associated with sharing good food and good wine in good company. Q Mon-Thur 11:00 - 23:30, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 01:30, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. €€. JKW

La Ruelle Joshua Lane, off Dawson Street, D2, MLuas St Stephen’s Green, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 9544, www.laruelle.ie. Whisking a date or group of friends down an alleyway could be a risky business, but not at this modern yet cosy wine bar down Joshua Lane on Dawson Street. Its perfecly secluded away from the outside world - something reflected in the interior, where the table spacing puts you at ease before you dive into the superb wine list. With over 80 wines, ports, sherries and champagnes from around the world included, choosing may take some time, so it’s just as well the excellent range of cheeses and cured meats - not to mention the smoked Irish salmon - will keep the hungry gour-mand inside you happy. Q Thur - Sat 12:00 - 00:00. JK

24 What to see


From giant needles to ancient manuscripts, there’s a landmark and cultural hub at every turn. Museums and tours bring the city’s story to li fe, statues provide handy meeting points and parks create quiet escape from the throngs. With our comprehensive guide unfurled at the appropriate page, you’ll not set a foot wrong. And keep an eye on Finding Your Way Around (p.7) to help you navigate your passage.

Cathedrals Christ Church Cathedral B-2, Christchurch Place, Lord Edward St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 8099, www.cccdub.ie. Of Dublin’s two city centre cathedrals - both Church of Ireland - Christ Church is the oldest, with an early manuscript dating it back to 1030. Founded on the former site of a Viking church, construction began under the orders of the wonderfully-named Viking King Sitric Silkenbeard. Along with St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ Church served as the seat for the city’s five Bishops and subsequent Archbishops, the second of which - Laurence O’Toole - be-came Dublin’s patron saint. O’Toole and Norman conqueror Strongbow remodeled the cathedral in 1172.From the 12th Century Norman Conquest until Irish Inde-pendence in 1922, Christ Church reflected its English rulers’ fluctuation between the Catholic and Protestant faiths. In one pivotal period, King James restored Catholicism and attended Mass in 1689. A year later the protestant King William gave thanks for his Battle of the Boyne victory and presented Christ Church with a set of gold communion platesDuring the 16th and 17th Centuries, the cathedral was used as a market, meeting place and even a pub. Virtually rebuilt in the 1870s, today it stands as a monument to the history and heritage of Ireland, and continues as a working church with daily services, and renowned bell ringing during Sun service 10:00 & 14:30 and Fri practice 19:00 - 21:00. Its many treasures and curiosities include Strongbow’s tomb, the large medieval crypt with its mummified cat and rat, and Dublin’s own leaning wall. There is also a cafe in the 12th Century crypt. The cathedral is linked by a stone bridge to the former Synod House which now houses the Dublinia & The Viking World museum. Q Mon-Sat: April, May, Sept, Oct. 09:30 - 18:00, June-Aug 09:30 - 19:00, Nov - March 09:30 - 17:00 (last entry 45mins before closing). Sun: June-Aug 12:30 - 14.:30, 16:30 - 18:00, Sept-May 12:30 - 14:30. Adults €6, Conc. €4/3, U16 €2. Family, Group and Dublinia discounts available. J

Saint Patrick’s Cathedral B-2/3, Saint Patrick’s Close, off Patrick St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 4817, www.stpatrickscathedral.ie. Over 800 years old, Ire-land’s largest church and the island’s National Cathedral was founded beside a sacred well where Saint Patrick is said to have baptised pagans and converted them to Christianity around 450A.D. A small wooden church was built to commemorate this visit and a cathedral building erected between 1200 and 1270 - a feat begun by the first Anglo-Norman bishop, John Comyn.Through years of erosion and persecution, the Church of Ireland building fell into disrepair but was restored by the Guinness family between 1860 and 1900. Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels, was Dean from 1713-1745 and is buried near the entrance. A selection of Swift artefacts can be found in the Cathedral including his epitaph, death mask, writings and a parchment awarding him the Freedom of the City of Dublin.One of the Cathedral’s most significant events was in 1742 when a combined choir with neighbouring Christ Church Cathedral gave the first public performance of Handel’s

Messiah. This strong singing tradition continues today with two sung services daily (except Sat) during school term - the only Cathedral to do so in Britain and Ireland. It’s a not-to-be missed experience in a truly inspirational setting.Saint Patrick’s, perhaps more than any other building in Ireland, embodies the history and heritage of Irish people of all backgrounds from the earliest times to the present day. Which is why each year over 300,000 visitors and pilgrims visit the cathedral and its Living Stones exhibition which celebrates its place in the life of the city, its history, and role in the future.Services: Mon-Fri: 09.00: Sung Matins (school term only), 11.05: Holy Eucharist (Wed and Thur), 17.30: Choral Even-song, Sat: 11.05: Holy Eucharist, Sun: 08.30: Holy Eucharist, 11.15: Sung Eucharist/Matins, 15.15: Choral Evensong. Q Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00 (until 17:00 Nov-Feb), Sun 09:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 14:30, also March-Oct 16:30 - 18:00. Adults €5.50, Students/Seniors €4.50, Family (2+2) €15. Group rates also available. J

Historic BuildingsDublin Castle B-2, off Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 645 8813, www.dublincastle.ie. Wrapped up in this me-dieval stone fortification is the story of Dublin and its English colonial rule. As castles go, it’s not exactly an in-your-face affair, but step inside to see magnificent rooms, elegant courtyards and a stylishly landscaped garden. The castle was once the site of a 930s Danish Viking Fortress, then a 12th Century Norman Fort. The newer, stronger Dublin Castle was created by King John and completed in 1230 as a city defence, Royal Treasury and administration of justice. The courtyard featured defensive walls and four round towers, only one of which - the Record Tower - survives. The castle acted as the English, then British, seat of Government until 1922 when it was ceremonially handed over to the newly-formed Provisional Government and its leader Michael Col-lins. Coats of arms of royal chief representatives still adorn the Chapel Royal’s carved oak galleries and stained glass windows - harking back to a time when Anglo-Irish pomp and extravagance continued undiminished, even through the Great Famine. Much of the medieval castle burnt down in the Great Fire of 1684, and the rebuilt structure attained a Georgian style. Many rooms you see today, including the magnificent State Apartments, hark back to this period. To-day’s Castle hosts state visits, conferences and Presidential inaugurations. Complete your tour at the gift shop and Vaults Bistro. Q Mon - Sat: 10.00 - 16.45, Sun and Bank Holidays: 12.00 - 16.45. €4.50/3.50, U13 €2, U7 free. JK

Dublin Castle’s tranquil garden

26 What to see


Dublin City Hall B-2, Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 222 2204, www.dublincity.ie/dublincityhall. Perched at the top of Parliament St, this grand Georgian building, designed by renowned architect Thomas Cooley, was originally the Royal Exchange and became the centre of municipal government in 1852. City Hall has one of the best views in Dublin and its atmospheric vaults house multimedia self-guided exhibition - The Story of the Capital. Study medieval manuscripts, archive newsreel footage and precious artefacts, then spend time in the small café and shop to round off your visit. Free guided tours are by prior arrangement, and audio guides and leaflets are available in French, German, Spanish, Italian, English and Irish. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:15. Last admission 1hr before closing. Exhibition: Adult €4, conc. €2, child €1.50, 2+4 €10. JK

Kilmainham Gaol Inchicore Rd, Kilmainham, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 453 5984, www.heritageireland.com. Ireland’s most famous prison was built in 1792 and is one of Europe’s larg-est unoccupied gaols. Now a museum, the jail - with its imposing Victorian wing and bleak, confined cells - is synonymous with the Irish fight for Independence. Its prison yard was where the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising were executed by a British Army firing squad, and its last prisoner was Éamon de Valera, first President of the Free State the Republic of Ireland. After De Valera’s release in 1924 Kilmainham Gaol was shut down, then restored in the ’60s. Commemorative plaques, original graffiti and prisoner art combine to create a unique and absorbing perspective on Irish social and political history. Several movies have been filmed here, including Michael Collins, In The Name of the Father and, perhaps less conspicuously, The Italian Job. One hour tours run every 30mins and include an audio visual presentation. QApril-Sept. daily 09:30 - 18:00. Oct-March: Mon-Sat 09:30 - 17:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:00 (last admission 1hr before closing). Adult €6, Senior Citizen/Group €4, Child/Student €2, Family €14. Bus 79, 79A, 78A & 51B from Aston Quay, D2.

G e n e r a l Post Off ice B-2, O’Connell St reet , D1 , M L U A S M i d d l e A b -bey St., www.anpost.ie. Lo-cated hal fway along O’Connell Street, beside

the Spire, this iconic Georgian building opened in Jan 1818 and is the HQ for Ireland’s postal service. Perched at the top are three statues: Mercury, Fidelity and Hibernia (Latin for the island of Ireland).Less than 100 years after its opening, the GPO was to play an important role during the Easter Rising of 1916 when it became the headquarters for the leaders of the uprising. The building was extensively damaged during the fighting but the facade was largely unscathed and the GPO was rebuilt and reopened as a post office in 1929. Inside, a bronze sculpture of the legendary Irish warrior Cuchulainn is dedicated to those who died in the Easter Rising (also see History p.10).The building continues to operate as a post office and also houses an interesting museum whose Letters, Lives & Liberty exhibition tells the fascinating and historic story of Ireland’s postal service. An original copy of the Proclamation of Independence is also on display. QMuseum: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Museum €2. J

The History of the GPO

27What to see


Leinster House C-2, 2 Kildare St, D2, MLuas St Ste-phen’s Green, tel. (+353) (0)1 618 3271, www.oireach-tas.ie. The seat of Irish National Parliament, incorporating Dáil Éireann (The House of Representatives) and Seanad Éireann (The Senate) was designed by German architect, Richard Cassell, and is believed to have inspired the design of the US White House. It was originally known as ’Kildare House’ after the Earl of Kildare, who commissioned it to be built from 1745 to 1747, and was claimed for parliamentary use in 1924 following the creation of the Irish Free State. It in-spired surrounding streets of wonderful Georgian architecture that make up Georgian Dublin, and the first balloon ascent in Ireland took off from Leinster Lawn in 1783. Free tours are provided by the Oireachtas (Irish Parliament, pronounced Ear-Ock-Tiss) ushers. Irish citizens can be sponsored by a TD or Senator, and everyone can join a walk-in tour. Special public events also take place across the year including Sept’s Culture Night and Oct’s Open House Dublin. For all tour days and times contact the Events Desk at [email protected] J

Landmarks & MonumentsHa’penny Bridge B-2, Bachelors Walk, Wellington Quay, MLuas Jervis. No trip to Dublin is complete without the obligatory photo opportunity against the backdrop of this famous walkway. Built as the Wellington Bridge in 1816 by William Walsh, it was the first between Capel Street and O’Connell Bridges, and the Liffey’s only pedestrian crossing until the Millennium Bridge opened in 2000. For 100 years, pedestrians were charged a halfpenny toll to cross its 43m, hence the enduring nickname. Its familiar arched silhouette also suggests the coin-related moniker. The bridge was closed in 2001 for major repair and reopened 2003 with its original paint colour restored. Today it is one of the oldest

cast-iron bridges in the world, and its location at the gateway to Temple Bar virtually guarantees at least one traverse for any camera-happy traveller. J

Molly Malone statue C-2, Graf ton St, D2. The city’s most famous lady is immortalised in the epony-mous song telling the story of a humble fishmonger who wheeled her wheelbarrow through the streets broad and narrow (and so forth). Whether or not her trade directly involved the delivery of seafood is up for debate... but locals refer to her as the Tart with the Cart. You be the judge.J

James Joyce admires The Spire

28 What to see


C-2, College Green, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 896 1000, www.tcd.ie. Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth, Trinity College is the oldest university in Ireland and undoubtedly its most renowned. Former alumni include writers Oliver Goldsmith, Bram Stoker, Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett, as well as past Presidents of Ireland Mary Robinson and Mary McAleese. Spreading across 47acres, its cobbled quads attract over 500,000 visitors a year. The College’s main architectural features are the 19th Century Campanile leading into Parliament Square, the multi-denominational Chapel with its 19th Century painted window and the Old Library’s awe-inspiring Long Room and iconic Book of Kells. Tours available.

Book Of Kells Written around the year 800 AD by Columban monks, this highly decorative vellum copy of the four gospels in a Latin text is regarded as the finest surviving example of Irish Celtic art. Richly illustrated with many-hued letters and pictorials incorporating animals, humans and Biblical scenes, this exquisite manuscript reveals a seemingly inexhaustible wealth of supremely detailed ornamentation upon each close inspection. The Book’s name comes from the Abbey of Kells in Kells, Co. Meath where it was reputed to have been (at least partly) written, though its exact origins remain unclear to this day. The Book remained there until the 1650s when it was moved to Dublin for safekeep-ing and presented to Trinity’s Library in 1661. Over the centuries it has endured damage, part-theft and various attempts at rebinding - good and bad. Originally a single volume, for conservation reasons it has been rebound into four volumes, two of which are normally on display showing examples of script and illustration. Visits are self guided, with displays telling the history of the Book of Kells and other historic manuscripts, and reservations are not taken. Q Mon-Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Sun 09:30 - 16:30 (May-Sept), 12:00 - 16:30 (Oct-April). Adult €9, conc. €8, 2+4 €18, U12 Free. Group and family rates available.

Long Room Around 200,000 antiquarian tomes adorn the double-storey open shelves in this stunning 65m long space. Built between 1712-63, and featuring a stunning 12.6m high timber barrel vaulted ceiling, the room also contains rows of marble busts - including one of writer and Dean Jonathan Swift - and Ireland’s oldest harp, the c.15th Century Brian Boru. Named after the high king of Ireland who died in 1014, the harp is a symbol of Ireland. Also on display is one of only a few remaining copies of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic. Changing exhibitions add to the Long Room’s creative charm and visitor appeal. Q The Book of Kells admission also covers The Long Room. J

Trinity College DublinSpire of Dublin B/C-2, O’Connell St, D1, www.spire-ofdublin.com. MLuas Abbey St. Piercing Dublin’s skyline is this unmissable silver shard of stainless steel standing proudly on a bronze base symbolising Ireland’s past. Ris-ing 120m, the hollow structure is almost twice as high as Liberty Hall, Dublin’s original seven storey ’skyscraper’. Its 3m-wide base tapers to a 15cm point, the last 12m of which provide an illuminated beacon for the city’s night sky. Completed on 21 Jan 2003, the construction is designed to safely sway up to 1.5m in high winds, and 12,000 tiny holes allow light to pass through, enhancing its daylight impact. Officially called the Monument of Light, early name suggestions included The Sword of Light, Dublin Gleams and Brian Boru. However, as befits an enduring trend to rechristen local landmarks, Dubliners have dubbed it the Stiletto in the Ghetto, the Nail in the Pale and several other names we daren’t print. Situated outside the GPO, the Spire replaces Nelson’s Pillar which was destroyed by an IRA explosion in 1966.J

Museums & GalleriesChester Beatty Library B-2, Dublin Castle, off Dame St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 407 0750, www.cbl.ie. This award-winning library and art museum is housed in the 18th Century Clock Tower Building and adjoining modern purpose-built gallery. It contains the personal collection of Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, a wealthy American miner who, on his death in 1968, bequeathed his unique collection to the Irish public - on condition that it bear his name. Its rare treasures of ancient and religious manuscripts and art represent the world’s great cultures from Asia and the Middle East to North Africa and Europe. Beautifully illustrated Korans, rich Egyptian papyrus and colourful Chinese dragon robes are among the many fascinating items on display. The Silk Road Café reflects the global theme with food from exotic destinations such as Af-ghanistan, Morocco and Palestine, and the gift shop sells Fair Trade products. Sir Alfred was made Ireland’s first honorary citizen in 1957 and would doubtless approve of his legacy’s final resting place. Tours are themed, so plan in advance. QMay-Sept: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Oct-April Tues-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Year-round: Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Free. JK

Dublinia B-2, St Michael’s Hill, Christchurch, Lord Edward St, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 4611, www.dub-linia.ie. Located at the historic crossroads of Dublin, this top visior attraction tells the story of the city with three exciting exhibitions. Viking Dublin and Medieval Dublin re-create the city through life-size reconstructions including a Viking house and a medieval fair, while Death and Disease of medieval times are also investigated. Finally unearth the city’s past at the interactive History Hunters exhibition, visit an excavation site and see medieval bugs under the microscope in the Lab. See Dublin from a new perspective and come away knowing more about its citizens throughout the ages. QOpen daily 09:30 - 17:00. Adults €7.50, conc. €6.50, Children €5, 2+2 €23. Combination tickets with Christ Church Cathedral available. JK

Dublin Writers Museum D-4, 18 Parnell Square, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 872 2077, www.writersmuseum.com. This restored Georgian mansion provides a suit-ably salubrous setting in which to celebrate 300 years of Ireland’s outstanding literary legacy. As befits a nation synonymous with award-winning scribes, the museum provides an ornate backdrop for prose, poetry, plays and personal possessions from the likes of Wilde, Beckett, Joyce and Yeats. All genres are represented from the

magni ficent horror of Bram Stoker’s Dracula to the imaginative allegory that is Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels. A section is also devoted to children’s li terature, and portraits and sculptures bring each writer into focus. It is the only city museum to offer a multi-lingual digital audio guide. A coffee shop, crafts and bookshop continue to capture the creative mood and keep your cultural juices flowing. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. (last admission 45mins before closing). Adults €7.50, conc. €6.30, Child €4.70, Family (2+3) €18. Combined tickets available with the James Joyce Museum and The Shaw Birthplace. JK

29What to see


30 What to see


National Museum of IrelandArchaeology C-3, Kildare St, D2. This late 19th Century building has an 18m high entrance with classi-cal columns of Irish marble, and a hall that opens onto a great central court. Around this are exhibition rooms and a gallery where over 2million objects unearth Irish history from the prehistoric to late medieval periods. Highlights include Iron Age bog bodies, Ancient Egypt and Viking ar-tefacts and one of Western Europe’s largest collections of prehistoric goldwork. Seek out the Tara Brooch (c.700AD) and Ardagh Chalice (c.800-900AD), two of Ireland’s most ornate and significant national treasures. J

Decorative Arts & History A-2, Collins Barracks, Benburb St, D7. MLuas Museum. Get a true feeling of history at this former barracks which housed troops for over three centuries. When handed over to the Free State Army in 1922, they were renamed Collins Barracks after Michael Collins, the Army’s first commander-in-chief. The uniform he was wearing when shot is on display, alongside exhibitions on Irish military and civilians in wartime, and a major documentation of the Easter Rising and Irish Civil War. On the decorative arts side, the museum also show-cases some of Ireland’s finest designs - including clothing, jewellery, furniture, glassware, ceramics, glassware and silver. Artefacts of international origin are also on display, most notably The Fonthill Vase, a Chinese porcelain vase presented in 1338 by the Chinese Emperor to Pope Bene-dict XII. Find the museum on the red Luas line or avail of the free car parking on site. JLK

Natural History C-2/3, Merrion Square, D2. Opened in 1857, two years before Darwin’s The Origin of the Spe-cies was first published, this purpose-built museum is the oldest in Ireland. Famous for its Victorian cabinet style, the museum has over 2m specimens of which approximately 10,000 animals are on display. These not only cover animals native to Ireland but also the rest of the world

including species that are extinct, rare or endangered. The insect collection is the most extensive and accounts for approximately half of all specimens. It is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. J

All Museums tel. (+353)(0)1 677 7444, www.museum.ie. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Free.

Asgard at the Na-tional Museum, Collins BarracksAs an island nation, sh ips have a lways played an important part in our history, and now one of the most iconic items in recent Irish history, the Asgard, forms the central piece of a great new exhibition at the National Museum of Ireland at Collins Barracks. From the ship’s construction in 1905 by Norwegian naval architect Colin Archer, to its pivotal role in the infamous 1914 Howth gun running and her later use as Ireland’s first national sail-training vessel, the yacht has had a colourful history, and its story can now be enjoyed in a fitting setting. From 2007 to 2011 a major conservation programme was undertaken to conserve the ship and save as much original material as possible while also retaining the structural integrity of the vessel. Now, it’s ready to be seen in all its glory, its story intertwined with those from other exhibitions on show - ’The Easter Rising: Understanding 1916’ and ’Soldiers and Chiefs: Irish Soldiers at Home and Abroad Since 1500’. Open to the public from Aug 9, this perma-nent exhibition is free. For more info tel: (+353)(0)1 677 7444 or go to www.museum.ie/en/exhibition/asgard.aspx

Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum Off B-1, Finglas Rd, Glasnevin, D11, tel. (+353)(0)1 882 6550, www.glasnevintrust.ie. Ireland’s National Cemetery opened in 1832 and is the final resting place for many modern Irish heroes, including statesmen Michael Collins, Daniel O’Connell and Eamon DeValera, and writers Jonathan Swift and Brendan Behan. At 124 acres, it is the largest cemetery in Ireland and also has the country’s tallest round tower which marks O’Connell’s tomb. The high walls and watch-towers were built to keep out bodysnatchers operating in the 18th and early 19th century. Walking tours (90mins) are a great way to explore this fascinating space which is still in use today. The modern three-storey Glasnevin Museum was built as part of the preparations for the 100th anniversary of the 1916 Easter Rising and houses details of the famous people buried at Ireland’s necropolis. Follow the digital timeline that charts the history and draws connections between the cemetery’s most interesting inhabitants. Then descend to the basement’s City of the Dead and discover how different religions commemorate and celebrate their deceased. The museum also has a Café, shop and genealogical research facility. QMuseum: Mon-Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Daily tours: March-Oct 11:30, 13:00 (July & Aug), 14:30, Oct-March 14:30. Museum or Tour €6/5. Combined ticket €10/9, 2+2 €25. MP3 Self Guided Tour €10. General entry free. Bus Routes 40a and 40d from Parnell St and 140 from O’Connell St. KL

Hugh Lane Gallery B-2, Charlemont House, Parnell Sq Nth, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 222 5550, www.hughlane.ie. Founded in 1908, and regarded as the world’s first known public gallery of modern art, this important collection is housed in a striking 18th Century house and named after its art connois-seur founder. The collection encompasses over 2000 pieces from artists such as Manet, Monet, Degas and Renoir, and Irish artists including Jack B. Yeats and John Lavery. Uniquely, a reconstruction with original contents of Francis Bacon’s Reece Mews Studio is also on display. Visitors can lose themselves, figuratively speaking, in the Bookshop and Café. QTue-Thur 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Free to the permanent collection. JK

James Joyce Centre B-1, 35 North Great Georges St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 8547, www.jamesjoyce.ie. Built in 1784 for the Earl of Kenmare, the original plasterwork of this fine Georgian townhouse was restored using photographs taken by Joyce’s friend, Constantine Curran. Prof. Denis J. Maginni ran a Dance Academy from the house and was immortalised by Joyce as a character in Ulysses. The Centre was founded by Senator David Norris and members of the Monaghan fam-ily, descendents of Joyce’s sister May. There is an exhibition and archive, and visitors are welcome to peruse the library’s reference material and translations of Joyce’s works. Themed Walking Tours (€10/8) every Sat. QMon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Last admission 16:30. Adults €5, Students/Seniors €4. Tours and group rates available. J

31What to see


Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship & Famine Museum C-2, Custom House Quay, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 473 0111, www.jeaniejohnston.ie. See how Irish emigrants lived, and perished, aboard this replica 19th Century Famine Ship. The original sailed from Tralee, Co. Cork to North America from 1847-1855, taking locals on a perilous 3000 mile journey from the suffering of the Great Famine to the promise of the New World. Tours recall this pivotal chapter in Ireland’s history which saw millions leave these shores, most never to return. QTours daily. Adult €8.50, conc. €7.50, 2+2 €20. J

National Gallery of Ireland C-2, Merrion Square West & Clare St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 661 5133, www.nationalgallery.ie. Paintings, sculptures and ob-jets d’art are housed in this 19th Century building whose façade replicates that of the National History Museum and new Millennium Wing creates a striking contempo-rary edge. The Gallery houses the national collection of Irish ar t and work by European Masters including Gainsborough, Goya and Picasso. At the benefactor’s stipulation to preserve the masterpieces, the Turner collection goes on display every January. Jack B. Yeats, the great 20th Century Irish ar tist and brother of poet Wiliam B. Yeats, heads up the indigenous collection, and changing exhibitions keep culture lovers coming back for more. QMon-Sat 09:30 - 17:30, Thur 09:30 - 20:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:30. Free. Donations welcome. JK


The 1914 Howth gun-running vessel conserved

32 What to see


National Wax Museum - PLUS B-2, Foster Place, off College Green, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353) (0)1 671 8373, www.waxmuseumplus.ie. Housed in the historic landmark Armoury Building, your visit begins with a trip through Irish history with figures from Ireland’s literary world, Irish legends and political figures. Sports and showbiz fans can have their photos taken with local heroes U2, Phil Lynott and George Best, among many other VIPs. The atmospheric vaults are the ideal location for The Chamber of Horrors - not for the fainthearted. Kids can experience the mystery of Gulliver’s Travels, The Magical Tunnel of four worlds and puppet shows. Get interactive in the Science and Discovery Zone that celebrates Irish inventions and inventors. And, if you dream of having your own waxwork one day, make a start in the Wax Factor video studio where you can make videos to upload on-line. Q 10:00 - 19:00. Adults €12, Over 3yrs €8, Students €10, Seniors €9, Family (2+2) €35. JK

B/C-2, Discover Ireland Centre, Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 605 7702. These much-lauded, award-winning tours allow you to explore every picturesque corner of Ireland in an extremely enjoyable, informative and stress-free way. All tours depart from central Dublin each morning, leaving you back in time for dinner, relax-ation and maybe a Guinness or two. Choose from one to 10 day tours covering everywhere from the world-famous Giant’s Causeway and Belfast city in the north, the Cliffs of Moher and Aran Islands in the west and the Ring of Kerry in the south. Many other options are available, so call in and chat to Paddy and the team at their Dublin Tourist Office desk, or give them a call to book your next magnificent journey. Q Mon-Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 10:30 - 15:00.

Visit Ireland Travel

Parks & GardensDublin Zoo A-1, Phoenix Park, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 474 8900, www.dublinzoo.ie. Only 3km from the City Centre in the vast Phoenix Park, the zoo’s 30 acres take you on a voyage of discovery from the fringes of the Arctic to the Plains of Africa via Indian Rainforest. Today’s zoo has transformed from a menagerie that mirrored its Victorian heritage of animals displayed as curiosities, to a place where the joy of learning about wildlife and conservation is at the heart of everything. It is recognised as one of the most modern in Europe - and is increasingly an integral part of European Zoo breeding programmes. Crucially, though, it’s a great day out for all the family. Lions and tigers, gorillas, chimpanzees and orangutans, rare monkeys, rhinos, hippos, giraffes and

National Botanic Gardens

33What to see


many more exotic and endangered species can all be seen. And there’s also beautiful baby Asian elephant, Asha - the first of her species born on Irish soil. As well as the multitude of animals, children will love the pets corner, city farm and the safari train ride around the African Plains. Gift shops, a Café and several picnic areas ensure sustenance, souvenirs and snack stops are available at every turn. QOpen daily 09:30 - 18:00. Last admittance strictly 1hr before closing. Adult €15.50, conc. €12.50, U16 €11, U3 Free. Family rates available.

Garden of Remembrance D-4, Parnell Square, D1. Just off O’Connell Street is this small and peaceful park where a sculpture of Irish legend the Children of Lir - turned into swans by a jealous stepmother - overlooks a crucifix-shaped mosaic pond. Opened in 1966 on the 50th anniversary of the Easter Rising, the park is dedicated to those who died in the pursuit of Irish freedom. As the name suggests, this is a tranquil place where you can reflect on life and take a welcome break from the noise and bustle of the city.

Merrion Square C-2/3, D2. In a city renowned for its Georgian architecture, this has to be the era’s showpiece square - and certainly the city’s largest. It is framed on three sides by beautiful Georgian houses, and on the fourth by the Natural History Museum, National Art Gallery and the garden of Leinster House, the Irish Parliament. Once inside, look for the statue of Oscar Wilde who lived at No. 1 Merrion Square. Other famous residents included WB Yeats, who resided at No. 82, and 19th Century MP and champion of Catholic Emancipation Daniel O’Connell. Around its perimeter you’ll see those famous multi-hued Georgian doors, many of which bear plaques commemorating well-known residents. On Sun from 10:00 - 18:30, the park railings become an art gallery with all paintings available for sale. If you have an eye

for upcoming talent, you could well come away with your very own treasure. All artists are listed alphabetically on www.merrionsquareart.com.

National Botanic Gardens off B-1, Botanic Rd, Glasnevin, D9, tel. (+353)(0)1 804 0300, www.botan-icgardens.ie. Almost 20 hectares of beautifuly landscaped gardens create a colourful kaleidoscope of indigenous and international plants at this, Ireland’s horticultural hub. Founded in 1795, the Gardens are 3.5km north-west of Dublin and make a great daytrip, particularly if teamed with a trip to neighbouring Glasnevin Cemetery. Whether a floral aficionado or not, just walking around the grounds brings tranquillity to the soul. Glasshouses, statues and garden features, along with thousands of beautiful plants, reveal a different vista at every turn. Tours are available - with times posted in the Visitors Centre which also has a display, restaurant and head of a Giant Irish Deer. QMon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Group tours €2, free Sun 12:00 and 14:30. Car Park €2. LK

Phoenix Park A-2, Parkgate St, D7, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0095, www.phoenixpark.ie. Just north of the River Liffey from Heuston Station is Europe’s largest enclosed urban park and twice the size of New York’s Central Park. Its sprawling 712 hectares are dotted with ornamental gardens, monuments, a cricket pitch, football pitches, polo club and nature trails. Dublin Zoo is here, and the animal quota is further enhanced with grazing livestock, and a herd of wild Fallow deer. The large white Papal Cross marks the spot where over one million people came to see Pope John Paul II celebrate mass in 1979. At 62m high, the Welling-ton Monument in the south-east of the park is Europe’s largest obelisk. Formerly in the Guinness family, the 78 acre Farmleigh estate is home to the beautifully restored Farmleigh House, tel. (+353)(0)1 815 5900, where visiting VIPs overnight, important government meetings are

Garden of Remembrance

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Old Jameson DistilleryB-2, Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7, tel. (+353)(0)1 807 2355, book online at www.tours.jamesonwhis-key.com. MLUASSmithfield.

Walk across the see-through floor - beneath which lie original stone foundations - and enter the evocative world of John Jameson, a Scottish migrant who began making whiskey here in 1780. When a blight destroyed French vineyards in 1858, drinkers turned to whiskey and Jameson reaped the financial rewards.

Towards the end of the 19th Century, the distillery was producing 10% of Ireland’s incredible 90% domination of the international whiskey market. The onset of US Prohibition and Irish Independence, however, ended Jameson’s stronghold in the American and Bri tish Empire markets.

In 1966 Ireland’s four remaining distilleries, including Jameson’s, united to form Irish Distillers (itself bought over by Pernod Ricard in 1988). Less than a decade later, Jameson opened a modern distillery in Midleton, Co. Cork and retained Dublin’s site for vatting. Today Jameson remains a local legend and is the world’s bestselling Irish whiskey.

As with all Irish whiskeys, Jameson is triple distilled, giving it a distinctly smooth flavour. Blends of varying ages of maturation are produced by the company whose bottles bear the Jameson family motto “Sine Metu” or “Without Fear”. At this atmosphere-steeped visitor centre, tour guides take small groups of visitors through the interactive whiskey-making process.

Discover how the finely-honed skills of malting, ferment-ing, distilling and maturation transform water, barley and yeast into this famous drink - minus the Angel’s Share... Enormous copper stills, original shoes worn by the distillers, and Smithy, the distillery’s famous mouse-munching cat, are all part of this eclectic tour experi-ence. At the end, everyone receives a complimentary Jameson - straight or mixed to your preference - and volunteers get the chance to earn a coveted whiskey tasting certificate.

The Mezzanine level 3rd Still Restaurant - named after the whiskey’s famous triple maturation process - over-looks the bijou yet effortlessly glamorous entrance with

its exposed brick, glistening chandelier and Jameson family portraits. Enjoy a sumptuous lunch, dessert or dinner- some brandishing that Jameson flavour - or try an authentic Irish coffee or sophisticated whiskey cocktail at JJ’s Bar.

And for a truly unique souvenir, treat yourself or a super special mate to a personalised bottle of Jameson Dis-tillery Reserve (12 Year Old) which can only be bought at the exclusive Jameson gift shop.

The distillery is right beside the Smithfield red Luas Line stop making it very easy to reach. QMon-Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last tour 17:15. Adult €13, Conc. €9.60, Children €7.70 Family (2+3) €29. Book online for 10% discount.

Irish Nights at the Old Jameson DistilleryThe popular Irish Shindig Nights return to the Old Jameson Distillery from April-October. A celebration of all things Irish, the Nights include a tour of the distillery, exceptional live entertainment and a four course meal made using fresh Irish ingredients... and all, of course, accompanied by the finest Irish whiskey.The Irish Shindig Nights begin with a guided tour of the Distillery followed by fresh local cuisine with notable whis-key elements. How about Jameson infused Irish Smoked Salmon for starters and marinated Wexford strawberries on fluffy Pavlova with Jameson Chantilly cream for dessert? And your choice of mains is between Irish chicken fillet stuffed with sage and Irish white pudding stuffing or flash seared fillet of Kilmore Quay cod with lemon caper butter.After dinner, celebrated musicians the Jameson Players perform their mix of traditional and contemporary Irish music, while the Claddagh Dancers bring an exhilarating energy to the performance. Be warned audience participa-tion is encouraged!The Shindig nights take place every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening, from 19:00 - 23:00. Price, including tour, Jameson drink, four course meal and live entertainment, is €60 per person. Book online on www.tours.jameson-whiskey.com for a 20% discount!

35What to see


held and the public can enjoy tours, events and occasional food markets. Across the road from the US Ambassador’s Residence is perhaps the park’s most significant building Áras an Uachtaráin, tel. (+353)(0)1 617 1000, official resi-dence of the President of Ireland. Free guided tours are held every Sat on a first come, first served basis and tickets are available at the Park’s Visitor Centre. QVisitor Centre open daily 09:30 - 17:30. Follow sign from the Phoenix Monument.

St. Stephen’s Green B/C-3, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 475 7816, www.heritageireland.ie. MLuas St. Stephen’s Green. At the top of Grafton Street is undoubtedly one of Dub-lin’s top attractions and arguably Ireland’s most prominent Victorian park. Once the domain of the city’s well-to-do, this 22acre park was opened to the public and re-designed in the late 19th Century, with help from the Guinness family. Enter the Grafton Street end through the Fusilier’s Arch or “Traitors Gate” which commemorates the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who died during the Second Boer War. Other memorials of note include a Wolfe Tone statue and Famine sculpture (known by some as ’Tonehenge’ on account of their stark stone design), James Joyce bust, and the Yeats Garden with Henry Moore sculpture. Children love feeding the ducks in the large lake which is crossed by Dublin’s ’other’ O’Connell Bridge.

War Memorial Gardens South Circular Rd, Island-bridge, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 0236, www.heritageire-land.ie. The names of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in WWl are recorded in eight volumes housed in the granite Bookrooms of these graceful 20 acre gardens. Situated near Phoenix Park’s landmark obelisk, the Gardens were designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens (who also designed London’s Cenotaph) and laid out by an equal contingent of ex-British Army and Irish National Army servicemen. The Sunken Rose Garden, Irish granite War Stone, Cross of Sacrifice, and lily ponds and fountains fed from the nearby Liffey lend gravitas to the elegant surroundings. After decades of war, abandonment and erosion the Gardens were brought back to their former glory and - for the first time in their history - “officially” opened on 1 July 2006 - the 90th anniversary of the Battle of the Somme. The dedication was presided over by former Irish President Mary McAleese and attended by diginitaries from both sides of the border, representing both communities. Guided Tours and viewings of the Bookrooms can be arranged in advance. Q Mon - Fri 08:00, Sat & Sun 10:00. Closed according to daylight hours. Free. L

Sports StadiumsAviva Stadium F-1, Lansdowne Rd, Ballsbridge, D4, MCharlemont, tel. (+353)(0)1 238 2300, www.aviv-astadium.ie. Dublin’s latest sporting colossus replaced Lansdowne Road - the original home of Irish international rugby and football. The undulating arena holds 50,000 spectators and, with Ireland’s reputation for rainy weather, it’s good to know the tiered seating is covered with that curved roof. The stadium also hosts music concerts, and you can get a sense of what it feels like to be a player with a behind the scenes tour. Q Tours: Daily 10:00 - 16:00. Adult €10, conc. €7, child €5, U5 free.

Croke Park C-1, New Cusack Stand, Croke Park, St. Joseph’s Ave, D3, tel. (+353)(0)1 819 2323, www.crokepark.ie/gaa-museum. Home to Gaelic Football, Hurl-ing, Camogie and Handball, Croke Park is one of the world’s most spectacular stadiums and the country’s largest, with a capacity of 82,300. Headquarters of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA), the venue is steeped in history and holds a pivotal place in Irish nationalism. The first Special Olympics to be held outside the USA were staged at ’Croker’, as locals

call it. Muhammad Ali fought here, and U2, Robbie Williams and Take That have performed in front of thousands. Croke has conference facilities, a GAA Museum showcasing the his-tory of the sport and stadium, and regular daily stadium tours (except match days). And its new 2hr Etiha Skyline Tour takes you 17 storeys up and 0.6km along five viewing platforms for unrivalled Croker and city vistas. The stadium is a 20min north-east walk from O’Connell Street.QSept-May: Mon-Sat 09:30 - 17:00, Sun 11:30 - 17:00, June-Aug: Mon-Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Museum & Stadium Tour: €12, U12 €8, conc. €9, (2+2) €32, U5 free. Skyline Tour 25/15. Museum only, match day and group rates also available.K

ToursCity Sightseeing Tours B-2, Desk 1, Dublin Tourism Centre, Suffolk St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 605 7705, www.irishcitytours.com. These hop-on hop-off 90min tours have local guides providing entertaining commentary on their two routes. The 24hr ticket and 25 stops ensures you see most sights without having to stretch your legs. Q09:15 - 18:00 (summer), 09:30 - 16:30 (winter) every 8-15mins from 14 Upr. O’Connell St. Adult €18/16, 2 x U14 free. with each paying adult.

Liffey River Cruises B-2, The Boardwalk, Bachelors Walk, D1, MLUAS Middle Abbey St., tel. (+353)(0)1 473 0000, www.liffeyrivercruises.com. These 45min tours cruise daily along the River Liffey from March-Nov. Custom-built and wheelchair accessible The Spirit of Docklands boat departs from Bachelors Walk and takes a guided journey through the history of Dublin from the invasion of the Vikings over 1000 years ago to the development of the city’s thriving docklands area. QTours daily. Adults €14, Conc. €12, U18 €10, 4-15 €8, U4 free. J

Viking Splash Tours C-3, dep. Stephen’s Green North, tel. (+353)(0)1 707 6000, www.vikingsplash.com. Chitty Chitty Bang Bang has nothing on this beast which has been roaming Dublin’s streets and seas for around a decade. Sporting a Viking Helmet in homage to the city’s Scandinavian origins, and roaring at passers by like a pillager possessed, tourists take in land-based sights such as St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral, Trinity College, Leinster House and Merrion Square before dipping into the water at the renovated Docklands. The tours take place in reconditioned amphibious WWII vehicles called “Dukws” which also took part in the D-Day landings at Normandy. Each tour lasts around 75mins (55mins on land and 20mins in Grand Canal Harbour). Tours dep. Stephen’s Green North, near Grafton St.. Look for the Viking Splash Tours bus stop just behind the taxi rank and water fountain. Q Tours daily. Adult €20, Student/Senior €18, 3-12 €10, 2+3 €60. Children U3 can travel but must alight during water section of the tour.

Dublin 1916 Rebel Walking Tour B-2, dept. Sinn Fein Bookshop, 58 Parnell Sq (near Parnell Monu-ment, top of O’Connell St), tel. (+353)(0)1 814 8542, www.sinnfeinbookshop.com. Follow in the footsteps of Michael Collins, James Connolly and Pádraig Pearse as Irish republicans recount Ireland’s fight for freedom in these 90min historic walking tours. Learn the story behind the 1916 Easter Rising when the Irish Citizen Army and the Irish Volunteers came together as the Irish Republican Army (IRA) to take on the might of the British Empire. The tour takes in the events leading up to - and following - the Rising, and visits places where Ireland’s history unfolded and, in the words of Yeats, “a terrible beauty was born”. QMon-Fri: 11:30, Sat. by appointment. €10.

36 What to see


My Goodness, it’s Guinnessthe more raven-ous among you, the Brewery Bar ser ves a great range of global cuisine and tradi-tional Irish dishes, many of which are infused with the u n m i s t a k a b l e Guinness taste. The pièce de ré-sistance of any Storehouse visit has to be a trip to the seventh floor GR AVITY Bar, where a compli-mentary pint of creamy Guinness

can be savoured against a stunning 360° backdrop of its home city.

Back at the ground floor, the flagship Guinness Store sells a vast array of branded merchandise and memora-bilia, and is always bustling with enthusiastic visitors keen to bag a few eye-catching collectibles.

The Guinness Storehouse is a 15min walk from the city centre. From Dame St. (outside Trinity College), follow the road, passing Christ Church on the right, leading to Thomas St. At Crane St. turn left, and at the end of the road turn right onto Market St. Alternatively catch a bus or the Luas red line to St. James stop. Drivers can use the free car park, but make sure you arrive in good time as spaces fill up very quickly. Some metered spaces are also available outside. Q Daily 09:30 - 17:00 (July & Aug 19:00). Adult €14.40, 18+ with Student ID €10.60, Senior Citizen €10.50, U-18 with student ID €8.50, 6-12 €4.80, 2+4 €32.50. 10% adult discount online.

Guinness Storehouse A-2, St. James’s Gate, D8, tel. (+353)(0)1 408 4800, www.guinness-store-house.com. A gargantuan ’glass’ of Guinness greets guests as they enter this cathedral to the world’s most famous brew. Rising through the Storehouse Atrium’s seven storeys, from the ground floor to the GRAVITY Bar, this hollow steel-beamed structure would - if it were made of glass - hold 14.3m pints of the black stuff. Now that’s some night out.

The Guinness Storehouse dates back to 1904 when it was instrumental in the fermenting process. It was later converted into this magnificent visitor experience and opened to the public in 2000. Located at the heart of the sprawling Guinness complex, the building brims with the enticing aroma of the brewing stout.

The fully-rounded visitor experience begins with an in-troduction to the four magic ingredients; water, barley, hops and yeast. Next a virtual master brewer explains the alchemy that transforms them into the creamy pint. With good timing, you could be one of 100 visitors chosen each week to Start the Brew with the touch of a computer button. Here, too, you can Taste the Brew under the professional guidance of the Tasting Team. Histories of the transportation process and the art of coopering (barrel-making) are also revealed. And a large projector illustrates the international reach of this iconic drink.

Just as famous as the drink itself has been Guinness’s ground-breaking advertising campaigns. The second floor is dedicated to this creative genius, with posters, TV ads and branded memorabilia bringing decades of award-winning campaigns together in one unique art collection.

The third floor’s interactive Choice Zone concentrates on the effects of drink and reminds us all to enjoy without excess. On the next level is a history of the building as told through copies of photos and documents from the extensive Guinness Archive.

Hone your pint pouring skills - no easy feat for any Guin-ness virgin - at the fifth floor’s Source Bar where you can also sample various Guinness incarnations - from the original Extra Stout to the brewhouse series. And for


Book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com and get 10% off adult tickets.

Guinness Storehouse®, St James’s Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800

Visit the magical home of GUINNESS in Dublin.

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Let gravity work its magic and pull you towards Ireland’s No. 1 International visitor attraction. Craft your own pint, enjoy the Gravity Bar’s spectacular views of Dublin and let 250 years of

Guinness heritage slowly settle into your heart and soul.


38 temple bar


This cultural, entertainment and imbibement hub attracts swathes of city newcomers. Lying south of the Liffey, between Westmoreland and Fishamble Streets, its cobbled thoroughfares reveal boutique hotels, speciality shops, boho ca fés and those al l - impor tant pubs. Meeting House and Temple Bar Squares provide further congregational opportunities for lost or weary souls, and the former’s canopies make for eye-catching cover. The area’s share of restaurants, galleries, theatres, shops and an arthouse cinema reaffirm Dublin’s cultured vibe. Mingle with fellow foodies at the Temple Bar Food Market (Sat 10:00 - 16:30). Then get with the beautiful people at the Designer Mart at Cow’s Lane in Old City Temple Bar (Sat 10:00 - 17:00). And complete your super market sweep at the reassuringly erudite Temple Bar Book Market (Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00). Some nice second-hand CD shops and a fair few funky clothes emporiums add to the eclectic retail experience (see Crow Street feature overleaf).Temple Bar is as much about the fun and laid-back daytime vibe as it is the well-established nightli fe scene. Explore its cultural side and discover more to this party hub than meets your average guidebook.

Button Factory Curved St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 9202, www.buttonfactory.ie. Recently redone and all the better for it, The Button Factory boasts a nicer layout, décor and, most importantly, sound system. As well as an intimate music venue, it also holds great indie-style club nights. As you might imagine, it’s a pretty young crowd- mostly students.

Irish Film Institute (IFI) 6 Eustace St, tel. (+353)(0)1 679 3477, www.irishfilm.ie. Just off Dame St. is this cinema with an extremely ’popular with the in-crowd bar’, restaurant and bookshop. This old Quaker Meeting House was transformed in the ’90s to become a cinema and film archive centre for Ireland. Independent and foreign language films are usually exclusively screened at this sleek venue. Festivals and special seasons showcas-ing international cinema, make the IFI a great place to see diverse and intelligent films and mingle with fellow movie buffs.

New Theatre 43 East Essex St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 3361, www.thenewtheatre.com. This intimate theatre is found by entering Connolly Books in Temple Bar. Acclaimed Irish actor Ronan Wilmot is the theatre’s Joint Artistic Director.Perfect for smaller performances, its location in the heart of Temple Bar and opposite the Clarence Hotel ensures a steady stream of clued-up culture lovers.

Project Arts Centre 39 East Essex St, tel. (+353)(0)1 881 9613, www.projectartscentre.ie. Dance, music, theatre and the ar ts call this contemporar y creative space home. Liam Neeson and Gabriel Byrne perfected their acting skills here. And the theatre has also showcased the writings of acclaimed Irish film directors Jim Sheridan and Neil Jordan.

Ark, A Cultural Centre for Children 11a Eustace St, tel. (+353)(0)1 670 7788, www.ark.ie. This innovative creative space is Europe’s first custom-built arts centre for children by children. This Temple Bar gem combines galleries, workshops, an outdoor amphitheatre and indoor theatre designed to entertain and enlighten young people aged 3-14. Check out i ts imaginative programme and give the kids a holiday to remember too.

Temple Bar Food Market

Map courtesy TASCQ, www.visit-templebar.com


39beyond dUbLIn


GlendaloughSt. Kevin’s Bus Ser vice C-2, tel. ( + 3 5 3 ) ( 0 ) 1 2 8 1 8119, w w w.glen-daloughbus.com. For over eigh t decades this 100% Irish, fam-il y-run business has been spiriting visitors the 30miles from Dub-lin to the Co. Wicklow v i l la ge of Glendal-ough.Named after, and in-spired by, Gl endal-ough’s St. Kevin, the 80min modern coach tour follows a picture postcard route to the 6th Century site where the Saint established a Christian settlement.Stunning scenery unfolds as you head south along the coast to Bray, then inland and upward through the Great and Little Sugar Loaf mountains. Yet more mountains, lakes and heather-clad plains dip in and out of view as you wend your way to Roundwood - said to be Ireland’s highest village - and past Annamoe Valley and the village of Laragh where fantastic views of Glendalough and its 33m Round Tower are revealed.Once at Glendalough, take time to explore the seven churches of St. Kevin - where a Monastic settlement was founded - and the shores of the village’s two en-chanting lakes. Q Year round daily: 11:30 & 18:00. March-Sept: Mon-Fri 11:30 & 18:00, Sat, Sun & Public Holidays: 11:30 & 19:00.

Buses dept. Dublin Bus Terminus, Dawson St. (opp. Mansion House). Tickets can be purchased on-board the bus. Adult/U14 €20/12 return, €13/7 single.

Dun Laoghaire and DalkeyTucked beneath the Dublin Mountains on the southern fringes of Dublin Bay lies Dun Laoghaire, a popular seaside town seven miles from Dublin city centre on the DART line. The resort became the city dwellers’ getaway when the railway arrived in 1834. Its name comes from Dun - Irish for fort - and King Laoghaire (pronounced Leary) said to be the 5th century son of St. Patrick’s captor, Niall of the Nine Hostages. Built in the early 19th century of nearby Dalkey granite, the harbour’s East and West Piers jut out like giant pincers nipping the Irish sea. Take a stroll along the East Pier and treat yourself to ice-cream from Teddy’s - a bit of a local institution.Dun Laoghaire’s sailing status is further represented by the Ferry Terminal complex (Stena sailings to Holyhead), 700-berth Marina (Ireland’s largest), several yacht clubs and the National Maritime Museum. Evidence of Dun Laoghaire’s Victorian origins also includes elegant seafront terraces, the People’s Park and a beautifully restored cast iron fountain. The 19th Century County Hall clock tower is another local landmark, as is the modern Pavilion Centre with its shops, restaurants, bars and Pavilion Theatre. Famous Irish writers James Joyce and Samuel Beckett have strong associations with the area. Beckett was born in nearby Foxrock and Joyce set the opening chapter of Ulysses in Sandycove’s Martello Tower - now the small James Joyce Museum.

40 BEYOND DUBLIN


are wide-sweeping and include Ireland’s Eye, an uninhabited island with ruins of a 19th Martello Tower and 8th century church. Esteemed residents - past and present - of this exclusive piece of Irish real estate include U2’s Larry Mullen, Thin Lizzy frontman Phil Lynott and Eurovision legend Johnny Logan. Highlights of a trip to Howth include the East and West Piers, Baily Lighthouse, 14th Cen-tury St. Mary’s Church, Martello Tower Radio Museum and 15th Century Howth Castle. The village has several fine bars and restaurants, among them Tophouse Krugers, Big Blue, Caffe Caira, Ella, The Cock Tavern, Okra Green Asian Cuisine and Beshoffs, and its fish-ing heritage ensures locally-caught seafood is often on the menu. To find out more, visit www.fingaldublin.ie or www.howthismagic.com.

Further along the coastline, the heritage town of Dalkey is a chic seaside destination that’s home to Bono, The Edge, film director Neil Jordan, author Maeve Binchy and singer Van Morrison. Don’t miss 15th Century Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre with its living history performances. The cobbled-street town is also a haven for boutique shopping, cafés and restaurants. If visiting at the weekend indulge your taste-buds at the CoCo Farmers Markets, held at Dalkey (Fri), Marlay Park (Sat) and the People’s Park (Sun). And nearby Dundrum has Ireland’s largest shopping centre. DART, Luas and Bus routes all serve the area. To find out more log onto www.visitdublin.com/dlr.

Malahide’s Coast and CastleMany Dublin visitors make this final stop on the Northern DART line their out-of-city base. And its relaxing coastal location, proximity to Howth (see below) and access to the city make it easy to understand why.The Grand Hotel is something of a Malahide landmark. Built in the 19th Century, the Grand gained popularity with the arrival of the railway... then the tourists. Home to musicians Adam Clayton (U2) and Ronan Keating (Boyzone) and actor Brendan Gleeson, Malahide’s village-like atmosphere and seaside location ensure its status as one of Ireland’s most affluent addresses. A stroll around town shows off cute boutiques, tasty delis, trad bars and some fine dining options. And wannabe P. Diddys can gaze longingly at the yachts bobbing in the 350-berth Marina. But it’s a much more historic VIP who gave Malahide its must-see status. Richard Talbot, a knight of Henry ll, accompanied the king to Ireland in 1174 and was given the “lands and harbour of Malahide” (sure beats a souvenir shillelagh). On this land was built Malahide Castle which his family called ’home’ for an unprecedented 791 years - save for an eleven year hiatus courtesy of Oliver Cromwell.In 1975, due to crippling inheritance taxes, descendent Rose Talbot sold the Castle and its magnificent Demesne to the Irish State. Today the Castle is undergoing a major €10m renovation and is due to open in late summer 2012 with Avoca shop and restaurant as its anchor tennant. When it does, highlights will, once again, include the Great Hall and Oak Room. Meanwhile, visitors can continue to enjoy its 250 acres of parkland including children’s playground. For more info on Malahide and the Castle log onto www.visitdublin.ie.

HowthWhere the coastline juts out at Howth Head, 13km north of the city, you’ll find this quaint, prosperous fishing town. At the end of one of two Northern DART lines, Howth (rhymes with both) is easily accessible from the city (c.30mins) and extremely worthy of a daytrip. Views from Howth Head

Rathfarnham, D14, tel. (+353)(0)1 493 9461, www.heritageireland.ie/en/Dublin/Rathfarnham-Castle/. The toys are back in town! Classically associ-ated with architecture and a fine collection of family portraits, this magnificent building, c.8km south of Dublin city centre, now houses the Berkeley Costume and Toy Collection. Made up of 18th and 19th Century toys, dolls and costumes, the collection tells a social history of its own and breathes life into the Castle’s grand interiors.This splendorous 18th Century building dates back to the Elizabethan period and was built to protect Dublin from attack from Wicklow clans. Immerse yourself in its rich history and, if the toys aren’t enough to keep the little ones occupied, head for the playground in the Castle grounds, then refuel at the Stuart and Chambers Tearooms. Find it about 3.5miles south of Dublin city. Q Tue-Sun 10:00 - 17:15 (Summer), Wed-Sun 10:30 - 17:00 (Winter/Spring). Free. LK

Rathfarnham Castle

41BEYOND DUBLIN


Big Blue 30 Church St, Howth, tel. (+353)(0)1 832 1007, http://bigbluehowth.com/. This Spanish Tapas Bar and Restaurant serves up the real deal, with an authentic collection of delicious Iberian treats, including Andalucia Chicken Wings, Patatas Bravas and Chorizo a la Cidra, cooked to order. Turf fires and a bird’s eye view of Howth harbour and Irelands Eye make this a special spot. Live Spanish music and twice monthly Paella Nights get the party going - add a jug of sangria and you’re away - olé! QWed-Sun 13:00 - 22:00, €€-€€€.

Cock Tavern 18 Church St, Howth, Co Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 839 5876. Once a favourite watering hole of Thin Lizzy’s Phil Lynott, this traditional pub sits on a small hill in the heart of Howth village. The music connection continues with past patrons including The Pogues’ Shane MacGowan, and Slash from Guns N’ Roses who came in homage to the Thin Lizzy frontman. Snuggle up beside the open fire, enjoy a soothing Irish Coffee and spark up a conversation with the locals. Recently refurbished and under new management, the Tavern prides itself on providing the cheapest pint in Dublin. A fine beer garden, games room and plenty of big screens for major sporting events makes it a welcoming spot and a far cry from the pomp of certain city bars. Definitely worth dropping in for a pint... but don’t forget the last DART back to Connolly Station is at 23:55. Q Mon-Thur 10:00 - 23:30, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. E

Deer Park Hotel, Golf & Spa Howth Castle, Howth, Co Dublin, tel. (+353)(0)1 832 2624, www.deerpark-hotel.ie. Nine miles north of the city centre in the lovely little fishing village of Howth lies this long-established golf and spa resort. Set in the historic estate of Howth Castle, which has been in the hands of the same family since Norman times, the hotel’s grounds boast, as HG Wells put it, “the finest views west of Naples”. It’s a golfer’s paradise, but the stunning views over Dublin Bay and Ireland’s Eye may distract you from your swing. And for those who don’t want to play a round there’s also a spa, swimming pool, tennis courts and fine restaurant, not to mention the excellent Kitchen In The Castle cookery school. Courtesy buses can bring you into the village, and there are great packages available for golf, spa or cookery weekends. Q Rooms €75-180 (single rooms €45-120). Family rooms also available. HFLKDCW

Eat, sleep & drink

42 BEYOND DUBLIN


Powerscourt House & Gardens and the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Co. Wicklow

Prepare to be wowed at this stunning five star hotel and spa set in the luscious sur-roundings of Co. Wick-low’s Powerscourt Estate. Whether vis-i ting as a couple or family, there are plenty of packages to suit all ages and ensure your stay is extra special. Of which more later...

Part of the renowned Ritz group, this grand Palladian-style hotel opened in October 2007 and overlooks Sugar Loaf Mountain. And its pastoral location means you can stroll to the equally sumptuous 18th century Powerscourt House & Gardens with its Avoca shop and cafe, magnificent lake and picturesque walks. Further exploration reveals Japanese, Italian and Walled Gardens, the quirky Pepperpot Tower and a Pets’ Cemtery, the largest of its kind in Ireland. All in all this lush expanse reinforces Wicklow’s envious status as the Garden of Ireland.

B eyon d th e Es ta te , scenic mountain drives to quaint and historic villages such as Glen-dalough , Avoca and neighbouring Enniskerry add to the area’s charm. And a short drive to Pow-erscourt Waterfall - Ire-land’s highest - will have you reeling at the con-centration of must-see sights amid this stunning lndscape.

Back at the hotel, the 4th floor lobby rewards your return with yet more of those enviable vistas. Over half of the hotel’s rooms are suites - one is Ireland’s largest - and all the antique-style furniture is bespoke. Rainforest showers, marble baths and electronically controlled lights, curtains and air-con come as standard and the 20m swimming pool is illuminated with Swarovski crystal lights.

Sensuous ESPA spa treatments range from The Warm-ing Peat Ritual to Salt and Oil Scrub, and the Thermal Suite includes a Sauna, Vi tali ty Pool and Amethyst Crystal Steam Room. And there’s more... one of the three dining areas is celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay’s Irish debut, and comes complete with fantastic chef’s table from which to watch the professionals at work. The cosy and nformal McGill’s Irish Pub serves up traditional food and the obligatory pint of Guinness. Guests can also land their chopper on the hotel’s he-lipad, then sink putts in the two course Powerscourt Golf Club.

Children’s Programmes ensure junior guests enjoy an overnight to remember, too. What little boy or girl could resist the Happy Camper (from €40pp) - their very own tent pitched in your room with a secret picnic and torch for midnight munchies? Daughters will delight in The Little Princess package (from €40pp) complete with regal dress and spa nail varnish - both available to take home. And in-room film fun is served up with A Night at the Movies (from €20pp) when their fave flick can be viewed on beanbags as they enjoy popcorn, snacks and soft drinks.

A Games Room, Ritz-Kids Check-In, Children’s Menu and babysitting services keep mums and dads as happy as their offspring. Free bicycle hire helps all the family explore the grounds. And all ages will relish a visit to Tara’s Palace - a sumptuous history-steeped Doll’s House displayed at Powerscourt House and surrounded by an equally fascinating collection of childhood memorabilia. The perfect way to round off your family-friendly stay at one of Ireland’s best hotels and Wicklow’s garden gem. Find it signposted off the M11 south of County Dublin.

Powerscourt House & Gardens Powerscourt Es-tate, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow, tel. (+353) (0)1 204 6000, www.powerscourt.ie.QOpen year-round daily 09:30 - 17:30. Garden entrance fees: Adult €8.50, conc. €7.50, U16 €5, U5 Free, Family (2+3) €25. Waterfall open May-Aug 09:30 - 19:00, March, April, Sept & Oct 10:30 - 17:30, Nov-Feb 10:30 - 16:00. Waterfall entrance fees: Adult €5.50, conc. €5, U16 €3.50, U2 Free, Family (2+3) €16.

Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow, tel. (+353) (0)1 274 8888, www.ritzcarlton.com/Powerscout. Intrigue You Pack-age from €320 per night (until December 31, 2012). Incl. overnight in deluxe room and daily Irish breakfast buffet for two people. Pay for two nights, stay for three (min. three night stay). See website for all the latest rates, deals and packagesQ200 rooms. HFLEKDCW hhhhh

43BEYOND DUBLIN


Castle Leslie

Glaslough, Co.Monaghan, tel. +353 (0)47 88100, www.castleleslie.com. Irish castles have long held a romantic allure for holidaymakers - both as a daytrip destination and luxury hotel option. Standing proud among this elite group of historic houses is Castle Leslie, the Co. Monaghan seat of the Leslie family... and one-time wedding venue of Paul McCartney and former wife Heather Mills. But it’s not just the celebrity status that attracts visitors from home and abroad, because this castle and estate provides an unforgettable verdant escape.

Dominating the small village of Glaslough, the estate’s accommodation encompasses the Lodge, Mews, and Castle with a cluster of quaint Cottages in the village itself. From your arrival through the stone pillars and along the gravel path, you feel as though you’ve entered another world. Which isn’t surprising considering the 1000 acre estate boasts its own church, three lakes and equestrian facilities (yes, even horses can have holidays).

The Leslies have lived here since the 1660s, making it one of Ireland’s oldest castle estates still owned by the founding family. Over the centuries a panoply of guests, from the Churchills to Mick Jagger, have enjoyed their hospitality. And the colourful patriarch of the family, nonagenarian Sir Jack Leslie, can still be seen enjoying his home and conversing with guests.

Today’s castle was built in the 19th century in Scottish Baronial style, and each of its twenty history-steeped bedrooms is individually named and designed. Once favoured by Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman, The Print Room features a solid stone tub and megalithic shower. The Nursery is resplendent wih a hand-painted alphabet frieze and ensuite hidden in a large dolls house. And the top-of-the-house Eagle’s Nest affords sweeping balcony views of the estate. The communal castle space is no less evocative with a library, conservatory and dining area

among the rooms exuding that grand historic vibe. At the entrance and overlooking the Equestrian Centre, the equally atmospheric Lodge has been sympatheti-cally renovated to provide contemporary accommoda-tion with distinct period details. The Victorian Spa is the perfect spot to unwind with Steam Boxes, extensive treatments menu and a hot tub overlooking the stables. And the Lodge’s award-winning Snaffles Restaurant and traditional Conor’s Bar provide the perfect gourmet and informal backdrops to your dining and imbibing experience.

A short drive down a narrow track, past horses idly graz-ing in emerald fields, sits the Old Stable Mews - another meticulous renovation project and the only place on the estate where children can stay. A fully-equipped kitchen and plenty of en-suite and bathroom space, along with playpark and picnic benches, ensure a spacious and fun-filled family stay. The walking routes also keep everyone active and in sync with the great outdoors.

Just beyond the castle gates, the Village Cottages provide yet more overnight options. Ideal for large groups or families, the four and five bedroom limestone cottages were built in 2006 and sit serenely around a pristine green.

Castle Leslie’s unique history, authentic feel and unforced charm makes it one of Ireland’s most coveted overnights. And at just 80 minutes’ drive from Belfast, and even less from Dublin, this fabulous family home is sitting pretty for that perfect pastoral retreat.Q Check out their website for Late 2012 Offers including Overnight Escape with dinner and wine (from €115pps), Romantic Getaway with dinner, bubbly and spa treatments (from €209pps), two night Girls Getaway in 5-bed Cottage with dinner, fridge filled with food, drink and treats, spa treatments and chick flick (from €209pps) and Five Night Family Break in Cottage with kids’ activities, stocked fridge, family movies, equestrian fun, spa treatments for the parents and family dinner at Conor’s Bar (total price €1050). HLKDW


44 Shopping


Chic boutiques, designer department stores, vintage finds and sprawling malls, Dublin has the lot. The main pedestrian shopping strip is Grafton Street, and Temple Bar has some cute one-off shops worth exploring, too. Here’s a quick guide to the main malls and souvenir must-sees.

Department StoresArnotts B-2, 12 Henry St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 805 0400, www.arnotts.ie. MLuas Jervis St. Ireland’s oldest depart-ment store dates back to 1843 and is ranked by size alongside Harrods and Selfridges in the top five stores in Ireland and Britain. This retail giant has everything from fashion to furniture, linen to lingerie and even an in-house interior design consultant. Get yourself an Irish county GAA jersey or fine local crystal as a truly unique souvenir. Five cafés and sandwich bars should stave off hunger pangs and ensure you don’t leave empty-handed. Turn left at the GPO onto Princess St. for paid parking with lifts to the store. Q09:00 - 19:00, Tue 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.JLK

Brown Thomas C-2, 88-95 Grafton St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 605 6666, www.brownthomas.com. MLuas St. Ste-phen’s Green. Rub designer shoulders with Dublin’s beautiful people at this glistening fashion and beauty flagship store. Opened by haberdashers and general drapers Hugh Brown and James Thomas on Grafton Street in 1849, Brown Thomas is undoubtedly Dublin’s - and Ireland’s -most famous store, with additional dazzling branches in Galway, Limerick and Cork. Enter the paradise and immerse yourself in sophisticated threads, sensual lingerie and a kaleidoscope of must-have cosmetics. There’s even a BTkids section for the junior fashionista in your life... hide that piggy bank. And trendsetting teens can slink across the road to the younger BT2, leaving their parents to shop... or wail into their wallets. Q09:00 - 20:00, Thur & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J

Clery & Co. B-2, 18-27 Lower O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 6000, www.clerys.ie. MLuas Abbey St. One of the world’s first purpose-built department stores, this retail mecca has occupied the same space since 1853. Being on Dublin’s main street, Clerys has witnessed and experienced its fair share of history - most significantly when it was destroyed during the 1916 Easter Rising - and is now a listed building, both for this and architecture reasons. In 2004, a €22m revamp saw the department store emerge butterfly-like as a bright, shiny shopping marvel. It still retains its historical grandeur and offers a great selection of fashions, furnishings and fabulous gifts. And, if you’re relocating to the city, check out its ingenious Apartment Fit-Out Package designed to take the strain out of your moving experience. Q09:00 - 19:00, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

Shopping Centres & MallsDundrum Town Centre Sandyford Rd, Dundrum, D16, tel. (+353)(0)1 299 1700, www.dundrum.ie. MLuas Balally. This sprawling retail and entertainment complex boasts a multiplex cinema, restaurants, bars, nightclub, medical centre, hairdressers, theatre and over 160 shops in its purpose-built Town Square, Gallery and Five Levels of fashion, food and fun. And, although you wouldn’t know it, certain parts of the centre are still being built which, once completed, will make Dundrum Europe’s largest shopping centre. The fabulous Harvey Nichols Boutique - with its Ground Floor café and signature Top Floor restaurant and bar - and House of Fraser - including Café Mimo - are Dundrum’s main department stores. Elsewhere, many more fashion faves enhance the stylish ensemble. And an

abundance of food and drink ranges from the Bagel Factory to Yo! Sushi and virtually every flavour in between. Park-ing isn’t free but you can get 3hrs for €2 - the same price as 1hr. QMon-Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Sun 10:00 - 19:00, FLK

Georges Street Arcade B-2, Sth. Gt. Georges St, D2, www.georgesstreetarcade.ie. Dublin’s first purpose-buil t Victorian Shopping Centre dates back to 1881. Following a devastating city fire in 1892 which de-stroyed most of the building, the arcade was restored by local tradesmen and craftspeople and, to this day, retains many of its original features. Take time to walk through and soak up the ambience enjoyed by previous generations of city shoppers. The variety of shops, restaurants and stalls - from fortune teller to fashion, fine art to flowers and souvenirs to accessories - is so eye-catching you can spend an enjoyable afternoon browsing and buying treats for yourself... and the folks back home. And, afterwards, there are plenty of great value foodie options - from freshly roasted coffees to gourmet global cuisine - to satisfy those post-shopping pangs. An authentic and unique retail find right in the heart of Dublin. Q09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JK

Jervis Shopping Centre B-2, 125 Upper Abbey St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 878 1323, www.jervis.ie. MLuas Jervis. This is the largest shopping centre in the city centre and is very centrally located just off O’Connell Street. The Red line Luas stops outside and escalators whisk you off to its three floors - the first two are shops, and the third restaurants. Open since 1996, all outlets overlook a Central Rotunda from which light floods across all the floors. Retail-wise Debenhams and M&S are the big boys, but there are lots more shopping options and many high street stalwarts. To get there find the Spire then turn down Henry Street and you can’t miss it. The large car park is accessed via Jervis St. Q 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 21:00, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:30. JLK

Moore Street Mall B-2, Parnell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 3416, www.moorestmall.com. Aiming to be Ireland’s first multicultural shopping centre, over 30 independent outlets and a cosmopolitan Food Court focus on food, crafts, accessories, household goods and fashion from Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, Eastern Europe and even Ireland. Beauty products and hair salons keep you looking good, and the International Food Market (Wed, 11:00 - 19:00) continues the global gourmet theme. This centre has a lot to offer and demonstrates some of the newer influences and ethnicity in Ireland today. Find it beside Jury’s Inn Hotel. Q 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, & Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre B-2, 59 South William St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 7000, www.powerscourtcentre.com. Just off Grafton St. is a sophis-ticated shopping centre brimming with stylish boutiques and chi chi Cafés. The Georgian mansion which houses this unique retail experience was built in 1774 with gran-ite from Co. Wicklow’s Powerscourt Estate. The former residence of MEP Lord Powerscourt (Richard Wingfield), tours (Fri & Sat, 15:00) explain its history, 18th Century life for the privileged and how the centre works around the house, rather than the other way around. Tickets can be bought from the Information Desk. Opened as a Shopping Centre in 1981, Powerscourt elegantly fuses independent shops and galleries with upmarket high street names. The courtyard atmosphere has long been a favourite with the city’s elite, so why not join them for an afternoon of pure designer indulgence? Q 10:00-18:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. JW

45Shopping


Cathach Books C-2, 10 Duke St, off Grafton St, tel. (+353)(0)1 671 8676, www.rarebooks.ie. In the land of saints, scholars and scribes, this antiquarian bookshop stands head and shoulders above the rest. Shelves positively heave with the works of 20th Century li terary greats such as Wilde, Beckett, Joyce, and Yeats... and the shop even stocks first editions of the latter two. Specialist tomes on 17th Century Irish History and topog-raphy highlight the shop’s extensive collection. Check out the online searchable database to source your books of choice. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, ask any of the Cunningham family who run the shop and will be more than happy to assist. I f you want to bring home a history-steeped souvenir with reams of gravitas, there really is no better place to visit. QMon-Sat 9:30 - 17:45.

Celtic Whiskey Shop & Wines on the Green C-2, 27-28 Dawson St, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 675 9744, www.celticwhiskeyshop.com. MLuas St. Stephen’s Green. At the top of Dawson St, almost opposite The Mansion House, this quaint shop stocks the city’s most varied collection of whiskeys, bourbons and wines. Window displays of aged barrels and rare bottles of spirits lure passers-by and, once inside, the advice and knowledge of the staff is unsurpassed. Purchases, including hampers and gift boxes, can be gift-wrapped and shipped directly to your house. They also hold Tastings and Masterclasses with visiting experts from featured distilleries explaining the distilling process and how different barrels can change the taste and body of the whiskeys. Connoisseurs can join their Whiskey Club on-line and receive advance informa-tion about these evenings. QMon-Sat 10:30 - 20:00, Sun 12:30 - 18:00.

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre B-2, St. Ste-phen’s Green West, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 478 0888, www.stephensgreen.com. MLuas St. Stephen’s Green. Right at the top of Grafton St , in the shadow of St. Stephen’s Green’s Arch, stands this striking iron and glass shopping mecca. Always abuzz with locals and visitors, this retail hub’s impressive interior boasts elegant balustrades, a giant centrepiece clock and gleaming glass roof and dome. Over 100 shops inhabit its three levels, from the large Dunnes at the back to many smaller independent units dotted throughout and offering a myriad of gift good-ies. Interrupt your shopping and enjoy dessert, coffee and a spot of people watching at Foodlife on the first floor. The Luas Green Line terminates here, so whisking your booty back to base couldn’t be simpler. The Centre celebrated its 21th birthday in 2009. Q09:00-19:00, Thu 09:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. JLK

Bookshops with CafesFootprints Bookshop C-2, 3 Joyce’s Walk, 43 Talbot St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 836 3764, www.scriptureunion.ie. This inter-denominational Christian Bookshop sells a large range of Bibles, Christian Life books, Praise and Worship and Contemporary Christian music. They also sell cards, gifts and children’s books continuing the shop’s pro-motion of Scripture Union in Ireland. Within a few minutes’ walk of Connolly Train Station, BusÁras and the O’Connell Street Spire, this centrally located haven is also next door to Double T Café - ideal for yet more spiritual reflection. Q Mon-Sat 10:00 - 17:00. J

Sinn Féin Bookshop & Coffee Shop B-2, 58 Parnell Sq, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 814 8542, www.sinnfeinbook-shop.com. This specialist bookshop stocks a wide range of gifts, books, music, movies, clothing, flags and badges relating to Ireland’s struggle for freedom. Coffee, tea, soft drinks and a selection of hot and cold snacks are available in between browsing and chatting with the knowledgeable staff about Ireland’s history and tourist attractions. The Rebel Walking Tours also leave from the shop Mon-Fri at 11:30 and Sat on request. Find it at the junction of the north end of O’Connell St. and Parnell St, near the Parnell statue (himself a prominent Irish nationalist politician) and opposite the Rotunda Hospital.

Irish gifts and souvenirsCarrolls Irish Gift Shop B-2, 57 Upper O’Connell St, D1, tel. (+353)(0)1 873 5709, www.carrollsirishgifts.com. MLuas Abbey St. Opened since 1982, Carrolls is an integral part of your Irish retail experience. Whether you’re looking for an Irish flag t-shirt, Kiss me I’m Irish baseball cap or Irish sports top, this is the store for you. The locals shop here, too, for patriotic gear coming up to St. Patrick’s Day or major sporting events. A great range of Irish-themed CDs and DVDs make handy souvenirs for the folks back home. And The Football Association of Ireland (FAI) Store on Westmoreland Street ensures you leave brandishing the requisite array of current national/retro football kits. QMon-Wed 09:00 - 20:00, Thur-Sat until 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also at 98/99 Talbot St, 33 Lower O’Connell St, 44 Henry St, 22/23 Suffolk St, 17 Suffolk St, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre. J

A brand new, free In Your Pocket iPho-ne app is now ava i l ab l e i n

iTunes. Developed in association with Meta-4Labs, the app features more than 40 In Your Pocket cities and combines all the best features of In Your Pocket guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and independent information - with the functionality of the iPhone. You can search all venues in a city by location, and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest to you, as well as browse the app’s entire content offline. We even supply high-resolution static stre-et and transport maps (exactly the same as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge roaming charges. Other features include fully integrated Google Maps, within-app dialling and web browsing, em-bedded In Your Pocket video guides, a currency exchange calculator and local weather informati-on. And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are updated regularly by local researchers and native English speaking writers. Visit the App Store on your iPhone or PC/Mac now and search for ’IYP Guides’ by name.

In Your Pocket Apps



46 Vintage Shopping


Dublin is a modern city but it is very much steeped in the past, and this is reflected in many of the independent vintage shops that help keep us locals looking so good.Sometimes the best treasures are well-hidden and this is true of these boutiques, particularly around the Temple Bar area, where great clothes and accessories from the 1920s to the 1980s can be found on the narrow streets and alleyways. The popularity of period dramas from Boardwalk Empire to W.E. (although let’s face it, the only thing going for the latter was the costumes) has made the past the future again, and the current generation of such shops show class, style and an intoxicating coolness you can’t help but breathe in. Fine vintage!

Eager Beaver B-2, 17 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)1 677 3342. This place has been an established part of Temple Bar’s Crown Alley for so long the locals don’t even snigger at the name anymore. Its two floors stock a huge array of ladies and gents clothing with the emphasis on quality and style at realistic prices - everything from blouses and skirts to cords, combats and corsets, and a great line in shirts, trousers, dresses and suits from days gone by. The eclectic mix of old and new means that as well as modern t-shirts and jeans for those who don’t have one foot in the past, there’s also a fine line in accessories, hats, braces, bow ties and sunglasses. The shop also offers discounts to local and overseas students. Definitely not to be sniggered at... Q Mon-Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J

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47Vintage Shopping


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FanciSchmancy Vintage B-2, 4 Upper Fownes St, Temple Bar, D2. Once you find this boutique you’ll be delighted at your discovery. A hidden gem in the Temple Bar area, it stocks a great range of accessories, belts, bags and shoes to go along with the vintage dresses, blouses and knitwear. A discount rail sometimes makes an appearance for sharp-eyed browsers, but the prices are all pretty good, meaning you don’t have to break into the Central Bank across the road to look fabulous in flawless style. We can’t say much about the “schmancy” side of things, but whether you’re a drag queen or a prom queen, even a short visit to this vintage boutique will probably see you leave with something altogether fancy. Q Mon-Wed 12:30 - 18:00, Thur-Fri 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:30 - 18:00. J

Siopaella B-2, 25 Temple Lane South, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(0)86 840 7825, www.siopaella.com. The Irish translation for “Ella’s shop” and pronounced Shop Ella, this innovative new swap boutique and consignment store features pre-loved designer clothing and accessories from brands ranging from Karen Millen and Topshop to Gucci and Marc Jacobs. The designer clothes come from all over the world, but there’s also one-off samples and collections from emerging Irish designers to catch the eye. The inventory changes daily so there’s lovely surprises to be had every time you visit. Only the most stylish and best quality clothes are accepted, so whether you love the thrill of the hunt for a unique Chanel or Chloe piece, or are on a mission for some must-have Rock & Republic jeans, come here for your swapping and shopping. Recycling your style means you are doing something good for the environment, your wardrobe, and your wallet! Q Temple Lane South open Tue-Sat 11:30 - 18:30 (later Thu). Crow Street open Tue-Sat 10:30 - 18:30 (later Thu). J

Golly Gosh Boutique B-2, 2 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, D2. It would be difficult fo find this cute little vintage shop - through a narrow doorway and up some creaky stairs - were it not for the eye-catching signs outside. Specialising in vintage clothing from the 1920s all the way up to the ’90s, the discerning vintage shopper will find hand-picked bespoke and handmade items from right around the world. A new floor showcases upcycled vintage goods, and you can also buy jewellery and accessories made by Irish craft workers and designers. A second shop - Tahiti - has recently opened in the uber-trendy George’s Arcade, so you can double your chances of finding something great to wear. Q Mon-Wed 11:15 - 18:30, Thur 11:15 - 19:00, Fri-Sat 11:15 - 18:30, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. J

Shotsy Vintage B-2, Temple Lane South, Temple Bar, D2, tel. (+353)(1) 679 9652, www.shotsyvin-tage.ie. The hand-picked, top-quali ty ladies and gents clothing from the 1950s through to the 1980s here mean you can find something unique while enjoying the craftsmanship of the past. The shop’s name stems from Lauren Bacall’s character Schatze Page in ’How to Marry a Millionaire’ - by renting a penthouse and socialising in upmarket establishments to create an impression of affluence. Just like Schatze, in a time when we are all feel-ing the pinch, Shotsy offers the chance to look a million dollars on a shoestring. Q Mon-Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Thur 11:00 - 20:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.


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Whilst every care has been taken to ensure accuracy in the compilation of this map,

Fáilte Ireland cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

Because of the small scale of this map, not all holiday centres can be shown. The information on this map is

correct at the time of going to press.

© January 2006 Fáilte Ireland

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207

192

266

250

160

202

130

92

54

65

156

129

80

209

78

116

43

147

97

169

208

274

204

131

247

218

84

238

235

138

98

127

192

253

184

94

243

176

41

222

231

53

136

73

192

123

91

101

138

135

98

88

148

123

219

150

94

153

165

104

151

141

107

120

65

51

170

57

86

137

157

123

70

98

62

85

152

30

50

69

164

171

84

213

120

158

94

131

15

144

80

118

150

96

53

129

138

146

203

51

12

136

95

133

182

191 39

Emyvale

Kilrea

Howth

Cleggan

An Spidéal (Spiddal)

Portumna

Kinsale

Courtown

Gorey

Portaferry

Bangor

Downpatrick

Ballyclare

Newcastle

Aughnacloy

Magherafelt

DromoreIrvinestown

Newtownstewart

Lifford

Ballybofey

Rossnowlagh

Stranorlar

Buncrana

Ballyliffen

MovilleCarndonagh

Greencastle

MalinCuldaff

Portsalon

RathmullenMilford

Dunfanaghy

Gortahork

An Bun Beag (Bunbeg)

Ailt an Chorráin (Burtonport)

Gaoth Dobhair(Gweedore)

An Clochán Liath(Dungloe)

Carnlough

Ballymoney

BallycastlePortrush

Limavady

Dungiven

Ardara

Glenties

Gleann Cholm Cille(Glencolumbkille)

Malinmore

Killybegs

Kilcar

BelleekBundoran

Mullaghmore

Grange

Strandhill

Drumcliff Manorhamilton

DromahairDerrylin

SwanlinbarBallyconnell

Inishcrone

Crossmolina

Killala

Ballycastle

Bangor Erris

Béal an Mhuirthead(Belmullet)

KeelCashel

Mulrany

Newport

Foxford

Swinford

Ballymote

Collooney

Castlebaldwin

Tubbercurry

CharlestownBoyle

Drumshanbo Ballinamore

Belturbet

Cootehill

Clones

Carrickmacross

Iniskeen

Kingscourt

Shercock

Kilkeel

Virginia

Kells Slane

Newgrange

AthboyBalbriggan

SkerriesRush

SwordsMalahide

Greystones

Avoca

Rathdrum

AshfordGlendalough

Clane

Trim

Kinnegad

Granard

Edgeworthstown

StrokestownCastlerea

Ballyhaunis

Knock

ClaremorrisLouisburgh

Roonah Quay

LeenáunRenvyle

Letterfrack

Clifden Sraith Salach(Recess)

Roundstone

Ballyconneely

Cárna (Carna)

Oughterard

Headford

CongClonbur

Ballinrobe

An Cheathrú Rua (Carraroe)Ros an Mhil (Rossaveal)

Salthill

Oranmore

Athenry

Kilreekill

Mount Bellew

Lanesborough

Ballymahon

Moate

KilcormacBanagher

Clonmacnoise

TerryglassGort

MountshannonDromineerScarriff

Tulla

Killaloe Templemore

Holycross

Urlingford

Durrow

Abbeyleix

Stradbally

Droichead Nua (Newbridge)

Ballyvaughan

Lisdoonvarna

EnnistymonLahinch

Miltown Malbay

Kilkee

Kilbaha

Killimer

FoynesTarbertBallybunion

Ballyheige

Castleisland

Abbeyfeale

RathkealeAdare

Kilmallock

Rath Luirc (Charleville)

Camp

Castlegregory

An Daingean(Dingle)

Killorglin

Glenbeigh

Cahirciveen

Waterville

Sneem

Glengarriff

Castletown Bere

Schull

Baltimore

RosscarberyClonakilty

Courtmacsherry

Dunmanway

Inchigeelagh

Macroom Blarney

Bandon

BallycottonCrosshavenCarrigaline

Ardmore

Millstreet

Kanturk

Buttevant

Fermoy

Watergrasshill

Cahir

Lismore Dunmore East

Kilmore Quay

WellingtonBridge

Fethard

Ballyhack

Passage East

Ferns

Bunclody

GraiguenamanaghCallan

Castlecomer

Thomastown

Bagenalstown

Tullow

Castleblayney

Banbridge

Newtownards

Rosslare

Goleen

Doolin

Cashel

BlessingtonEnniskerry

Tallaght

Baltinglass

Portstewart

CushendunCushendall

Whitehead

Ballynahinch

Donaghadee

Hillsborough

Warrenpoint

Carlingford

Tandragee

Keady

Dunleer

Kilbeggan

Castlepollard

Cappoquin

Inverin

N5

51Street regiSter


Abbey St B-2Adelaide Rd B/C-3 Amiens St C-2Appian Way C-3Arbour Hill A-2Ardee St B-3Arran Quay B-2Aston Quay B-2Aughrim St A-1Aungier St B-2/3 Bachelors Walk B-2Ballsbridge D-3Ballybough Rd C-1Bath Ave D-3Bath St D-3Benburb St A-2Blackhall Place B-2Blackhorse Ave A-1Bolton St B-2Bow St B-2Bride St B-3 Bridge St B-2Bridgefoot St B-2Brunswick St B-2Burgh Quay C-2Burlington Rd C-3Busaras C-2Cabra Rd A-1Camden St B-3Canal Rd B-3Capel St B-2Clanbrassil St B-3College St C-2Connolly Station C-2Constitution Hill B-2Conyngham Rd A-2Cork St A/B-3 Croke Park C-1Custom House Quay C-2Dawson St C-2Dolphin’s Barn Rd A-3Dominick St B-2Donore Ave A/B-3 Dorset St B-2Dowth Ave B-1Drury St B-2Dufferin Ave B-3Duke St C-2Earlsfort Terrace C-3East Rd D-2East Wall Rd C/D-1 East Wall Rd D-2Eccles St B-1Eden Quay C-2Elgin Rd C/D-3Ellis Quay B-2Fairview C-1Fairview Pk C/D-1Fenian St C-2Georges Quay C-2Grafton St B/C-2

Grand Canal Quay C-2Grand Canal St C-2/3 Grand Parade C-3Grangegorman Upper B-1/2 Haddington Rd C-3Halliday Rd A-2Hanover Quay C/D-2 Hanover St East C-2Harcourt St B-3Hatch St Lower C-3Hatch St Upper B-3Henry St B-2Herbert Park C/D-3 Herbert Rd D-3Heuston Station A-2Heytesbury St B-3High St B-2Chancery St B-2Charlemont Place B/C-3Church Rd C/D-1Church Rd C/D-2Infirmary Rd A-2Inns Quay B-2Irish Financial Services Centre C-2 Kevin St B-3Kildare St C-2/3Kilmainham A-2Lansdowne Rd D-3Leeson Park C-3Leeson St Upper C-3Lord Edward St B-2Lower Baggot St C-3Lower Drumcondra Rd B-1Lower Gardiner St C-2Lower Leeson St C-3Macken St C-2Mangan Rd B-3Manor St A-2 Marlborough St C-2Marrowbone Lane A-2/3 Mary St B-2Marys Lane B-2Meath St B-2Merchants Quay B-2Merrion Rd D-3Merrion Row C-3Merrion Square C-2/3 Mespil Rd C-3Molesworth St C-2Moore St B-2Mountjoy Square C-1Mountjoy St B-1/2Nassau St C-2New St B-3North Circular Rd B/C-1North Frederick St B-1/2 North King St B-2North Wall Quay C/D-2 Northumberland Rd C-3O’Connell St B-2

Old Cabra Rd A-1Old Kilmainham A-2Ormond Quay Lower B-2Ormond Quay Upper B-2Oxmantown Rd A-1/2Parkgate St A-2Parnell Rd A/B-3 Parnell Square B-2Parnell St B-2Patrick St B-2Pearse St C-2Pearse Station C-2Pembroke Rd C/D-3 Pembroke St C-3Phibsborough Rd B-1Phoenix Park A-1/2Pimlico B-2/3 Poplar Row C-1Portland Row C-1Prussia St A-1Queen St B-2Rainsford St A/B-2 Ranelagh C-3Rathdown B-1Rathmines Rd B-3Richmond Rd C-1Richmond St B-3Ringsend Rd C/D-2 Rutland Ave D-2Sandymount Ave D-3Sandymount Rd D-3Sean MacDermott St C-2 Serpentine Ave D-3Seville Place C-2Shelbourne Park D-2/3 Shelbourne Rd D-3Sherriff St C/D-2 Sir John Rogerson Quay C/D-2 Smithfield B-2South Anne St B/C-2South Circular Rd A/B-3 South Great Georges St B-2

South King St B-2South Lotts Rd D-2/3 South William St B-2St. James’s St A-2St. John’s Rd A-2St. Marys Rd South C-3St. Stephen’s Green B/C-3 Stephen St B-2Stephens Lane A-2Suffolk St B/C-2Suir Rd D-2Summerhill C-1Sundrive Rd D-2Sussex Rd C-3Synge St B-3Talbot St C-2Temple Bar B-2Temple St B-1The Coombe B-3Thomas St A/B-2 Tolka Quay D-2Toll Bridge D-2Townsend St C-2Trinity College C-2Tritonville Rd D-3Upper Baggot St C-3Upper Gardiner St B/C-1Upper Merrion St C-2/3 Upper Mount St C-3Ushers Quay B-2Victoria Quay A-2Walting St A-2Wellington Quay B-2Wellington Rd C-3Werburgh St B-2Westland Row C-2Wicklow St B-2Wilton Terrace C-3Windsor Rd C-1Wolfe Tone Quay A-2York Rd D-2York St B-3

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