Behind the Scenes

A fashionistas guide into the magazine industry.

01. The Intern- Diary of Look Magazine- Work Experience Guide - Intern’s Checklist- Interviews with the Intern’s

02. Fashion Roles- Katie Grand Article- Editor’s desk- Staff interviews- A day in the life of a stylist

03. Online- The future of online- Interview with an Online Editor- Interview with a Production Editor

04. Beauty - Interviews - Beauty Behind The Scenes

05.Photography- Studio- Location

06. Fashion Shows- Set up- Backstage- A dressers diary

07. Useful Resources- Website links

BEHINDTHE

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CONTENTS

Letter from the editor.

Welcome to the first edition of Behind The Scenes, a fashionistas guide into the magazine industry.

One of my all time favorite things has been magazines, reading them, looking at the different photography and trends, and one day hopefully working for

one. To me they are a total escape from reality.

The fashion magazine industry is a competitive business and a fast paced environment. Many people are aware of this but not many experience it.

Behind the scenes will encapsulate the real highs and lows of a life working at a fashion magazine from; how to become a stylist, editors advice on landing

an internship, behind the scenes photography, fashion shows and much more.

The book will strive to provide useful facts and guidance, laying out paths to success and an invaluable road map for young people wanting to go into the

fast-paced magazine industry.

Danielle AllenEditor-in-Chief & Creative Director

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BEHINDTHE

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“You can probably do anyt hing if you want to enough, but you have to start at the bottom”

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“You can probably do anyt hing if you want to enough, but you have to start at the bottom”

Words by Alexandra Shulman, Editor-in-chief of British Vogue

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THE INTERN

For my first day I wore maroon harem

trousers with a grey detai led vest

tucked in, leopard print pumps and

carrying my brown Luella bag. The

f irst day was a 10am start , gett ing the

tube from Finchley road to Southwark,

i t was only a few minutes walk unti l

I was outside the Bluefin building.

I t was a very tal l glass modern

building, holding other fashion

magazines inside such as, InStyle and

Cosmopolitan. I waited in reception

with the other interns to be cal led

through, we al l had our photos taken

and was given a temporary pass. We

were then asked to go up to the 5th

f loor where we were greeted by Rachel

Story, the Junior Freelance Fashion

Assistant . She talked us through what

we wil l be doing for the next four

weeks at Look. Our main job was to

make sure the fashion cupboard is

eff iciently managed. This included

returning sample to the press off ices

and ensuring the cupboard is kept

as t idy as possible. Throughout the

internship we were told that we would

also get the opportunity to assist on

photo shoots. Most of the mornings

mainly involved sorting out returns,

bagging them up and gett ing them

organized to be posted that afternoon.

Regularly the phone would go off

and it would be a PR company or

press off ice asking to have their i tems

returned to them. On lunch breaks we

went up to the 11th f loor which had

a fantastic view overlooking London

City Centre. In the afternoon myself

and the other interns would carry

on with the jobs from the mornings

and usually get asked by a styl ist or

fashion assistant to help them out

with different tasks. On my first day

one of the styl ist asked me to sort out

a collection which was being worn

at a photo shoot the next day. The

collections were different types of

Diary Look Magazine Internship By Danielle Allen

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coats. My job was to write brief descriptions for each outfi t and st i l ls and take note

of the prices of each i tem this was done for when the credits are put together for

the f inal magazine. I then put the outfi ts neatly into suitcases for the shoot the next

morning. The st i l ls were put into bags according to the type of coat and were sent

to a studio cal led PSC for st i l l photography for the magazine. Later the same day I

was asked by the styl ist to assist her on her photo shoot at Snap studios.

THE INTERN

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Photo Shoot: I was meeting Kate, the

Stylist at the Snap studios at 9 .00am.

The shoot was for high street catwalks

and would be displayed 4 weeks on the

Tuesday. Walking into the studio i t was

bright and modern with white walls and

spot l ights. I could not help but com-

ment on the dining table, i t was vibrant

orange with spot l ights underneath i t .

The make-up and hair styl ist were set-

t ing up and gett ing ready for the mod-

els . Taisia was the brunette model for

the shoot, she had her hair styled up in

a detai led bun on the top of her head.

Beth, the blonde model had her hair

styled down and curly al l brushed to

one side. The styl ists always try and get

a blonde and a brunette for the shoots

so they stand out against each other.

After we were introduced to everyone

we began unpacking the suitcases and

organizing al l the styles into their cor-

rect place on the rai l , and then steam-

ing the clothes which were creased from

travell ing. We then took a small break

and had breakfast , the table was f i l led

with fresh fruit , croissants, yogurt ,

toast , cereals , everything was paid for

by the magazine. After breakfast the

models were ready to be dressed for

their f irst outfi t . The poses for each

shot was the same throughout, they

would take a few steps forward posing

into the camera l ike they were on a cat-

walk. Taisia who has worked with Look

on many occasions made it look very

easy, she was very professional and you

could tel l the photographer l iked work-

ing with her. We got through over half

the outfi t changes by lunch t ime. The

whole atmosphere was very laid back

and comfortable. After lunch the rest of

the outfi t changes were completed and

it was t ime to pack up al l the outfi ts ,

making sure nothing was left behind.

THE INTERN

Photo shoots

THE FASHION CUPBOARD

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THE FASHION CUPBOARD

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Work Experience Guide

Fashion TeamAssociate Editor: Jill WanlessFashion Editor: Hannah HughesStyle Editor: Zoe AirdShopping Editor: Jodie NellistFashion News Editor: Lucy WoodFashion Stylist:Kate AndrewsPetro StofbergFiona DownieFashion Assistants: Kira Drury Gemma Gow Hannah Eichler

OFFICE: Blue Fin Building110 Southwark StreetLondonSE1 0SU

Hours: 10am on your first day.Usual hours 9.30am – 5.30pm, lunch between 1 & 2. We operate a smart/casual dress code policy. We have a canteen in the building which provide hot/cold breakfasts and lunches/beverages or outlets around the building include:Pret a Manger, Crussh, M&S Simply Food, Sushi, Leon, Starbucks.Help yourself to free tea/coffee/water making facilities in the kitchen.

IF YOU HAVE ANY INTERVIEWS, DOCTOR/DENTIST APPOINTMENTS SCHEDULED FOR WHEN YOU ARE WITH US, IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU

LET US KNOW BEFORE YOU START WITH US.

Work Experience Guide

Duties:You will experience the running of a busy fashion department on a national weekly magazine.As an intern one of your jobs is to ensure that the fashion cupboard is efficiently managed. This means returning samples to press offices and ensuring that the cupboard is as tidy as possible so that nothing gets lost.You will also be asked to get prices, call-in samples, organise look books, do some fashion/shoot research and on occasion, the opportunity to assist on shoots.

Returns:All the samples have to be returned to the relevant press office. Details can be found on Fashion Monitor. If you are not sure where to send anything please ask one of the fashion teamPlease be aware that the monitor books can be outdated therefore, if numbers no longer work please check with the team.

Returns are placed in a pile at the front of the cupboard until collected at approx 4pm

When returning samples make sure that every item returned is either crossed off an existing docket (and dated) OR make a new docket with the PR company name, date and a description of the sample.

Make a van list every day of all the bags that are taken by the courier. Photo copy it and give one to him and keep one for our files.

All dockets must be filed alphabetically and Van lists must be filed in theappropriate folder. If the folder gets full please ask for more.

Make sure every returns bag is clearly labelledThe returns will be checked each day by one of the junior assistants before they are sent.DO NOT LET THEM GO WITHOUT BEING CHECKED

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Below is an example of a letter or email you will recieve after confirming your placement at an internship. These are the Work Experience Guides, giving you all the information you need to know for your internship. The content will include, contact details, hours and breaks, duties and names and roles

of the staff you will be working with.

Back issues of magazines that you’re interning with. These will help you prepare for your interview.

Pack a pair of flat comfy shoes for traveling to and from work and any midday errands.

You will need your phone handy to pick up emails and for editors and other staff to contact you.

Tube map for guidance to locations for errands and photo shoots.

The Intern’s ChecklistALWAYS BE PREPARED!

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Keep your camera handy to take pictures of your experience at the magazine.(Just make sure you have permission first)

A dictaphone is useful for interviews. Editors and stylists are happy to answer any questions interns ask for your benefit and knowledge.

The underground is the fastest way to get around Central London. Having an oyster saves you money and time every day.

A Little red phone and address book is a must have whilst interning. Picking up contacts and email address’s is crucial in the fashion industry.

The Intern’s ChecklistALWAYS BE PREPARED!

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Dream . . .

Believe . . .

Create . . . Succeed . . .

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ELLE MAGAZINE INTERNALICE MARY BARNES, 22

First Class Honors graduate, Alice Mary Barnes studied Fashion Communication at Northumbria University.

How long did you work for the magazine?I worked for the magazine for 3 months

Were you paid for the internship?Yes

How did you apply for the internship?I met the woman who was my boss at London Fashion Week in 2009, asked if she had an intern/as-sistant at ELLE and asked if I could possibily apply for it. I sent her my CV and was offered the position before I finished university.

What was a typical day at work like?Every day was different – typically though, being the Bookings Intern, I was helping to organise all logistical elements for photoshoots; booking photog-raphers, models, hair and make up teams, catering, flights, hotels. Very hard work and you have to be super organised but I thoroughly enjoyed it!

What was the most interesting part of working for the magazine?Working with a variety of different agents, photographers, stylists and models.

What was the most difficult part of working for the magazine?The most difficult part for me were the sometimes long hours where you didn’t get paid extra.

Advice you would give someone wanting to get work experience at a magazine?Sometimes it’s not what you know, it’s who you know. Send your CV out everywhere, but more often than not it pays off knowing somebody in the indus-try already who may have a contact or connection you can use.

ELLE

It pays off knowing somebody in the industry already who may have a contact or connection you can use.

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VOGUE

‘The best advice I can give is to be confident and remember people’s

names!’

BRITISH VOGUE INTERNPIPPA RICHARDSON, 22

Currently studying Fashion Communication and Promotion at Nottingham Trent University

How long did you work for the magazine? 3 Weeks full time.

Did you get paid?No. I did get £5 a day for food and a maximum contribution of £25 for travel a week

How did you apply for the internship?Email and then I was offered an interview.

What was a typical day at work like?It differed, but predominantly research projects for future stories, a daily beauty bulletin (doing a round up of all the interesting/relevant infor-mation from the day from blogs, newspapers, websites etc) scanning all the papers, supple-ments and magazines. The daily running’s of the department, answering the phone, taking messages, sending emails on behalf of the girls.

What was the most interesting part of working for the magazine?Just simply observing the office environment. I got to sit in on a couple of meetings too, which was really interesting.

What was the most difficult part of working for the magazine?Well 3 weeks isn’t very long and really it takes a while to settle in and feel confident about your jobs and responsibilities. Also, picking up on where the other intern left off was quite diffi-cult. She hadn’t been very organised and I was then picking up on her correspondence with clients etc.

Advice you would give someone wanting to get work experience at a magazine?The main work experience I had done prior to this was PR and I applied predominantly for me to see how things worked on this side. It was a very different experience and I would recom-mend that people try and do this too. It gives you a bigger picture of the wider industry you are entering.

BRITISH VOGUE

CLOSER MAGAZINE INTERNSCARLETT WESTON, 21

Currently studying Fashion Communication at Northumbria University.

How long did you work for the magazine?2 Weeks

Did you get paid?£50 a week Expenses

How did you apply for the internship?I saw the listing on-line, and sent an email with a CV and cover letter over to Daniella Bellanca the Beauty Editor. She emailed back and said I just needed to say when I wanted to work out of the dates she listed and it would be first come first serve.

What was a typical day at work like?Get in at 9, check the post room, open the par-cels and sign in clothing and accessories into the fashion closet, sort out PR returns, tidy the fash-ion closet, run errands, keep checking for new post, deliver clothing items to studio round the corner, deliver beauty items upstairs for shoot-ing, man the phones, research clothing on the internet, request PR samples, request high res. Images from PR companies, do anything that was asked of me!lots of organising!

What was the most interesting part of working for the magazine?When I got to go on a photoshoot with the picture director Emma. We had a car pick us up and went to a studio about half an hour away. The shoot was for Kate from the Apprentice and I helped with the directing and enjoyed see-ing what went on, whilst asking the stylist and Emma the picture director, questions about ther roles.

What was the most difficult part of working for the magazine?Sometimes it became quite tedious in the fash-ion closet and a bit lonely. It was hard in the second week when two more interns started and they didn’t have as much drive and interest as me. I had to get a bit bossy!

Advice you would give someone wanting to get work experience at a magazine?Write a polite cover letter to a few people within the magazine, particularly in the jobs you are interested in. Follow up your application with a polite phone call to check they received it. Don’t be put off by boring, hard work- it’s not all fun, a lot of the jobs can become very samey and you just have to do it. Speaking to people in the magazine , they all started at the bottom in order to get to the top. Whilst you are there ask as many questions as you can and don’t be afraid to ask to do more!

‘When I got to go on a photo shoot I helped with the directing and enjoyed

seeing what went on, whilst asking the stylist and picture director, questions

about ther roles.’

CLOSER

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New York City

When it comes to fashion, New York is the place to be, a city that never sleeps. Situated in the central of Times Square just off Fashion Avenue contains some of the most famous magazines in the world, at the popular publishing company, Conde Nast. Here you will find some of the most influential people in fashion today from Anna Wintour to Katie Grand. Magazines such as, Teen Vogue, GQ, Elle, Tatler. It is the royal palace of fashion!

Teen Vogue

ing in samples from designers and PR companies. Packing the stunning designer clothes neatly into the trunks for a day of shooting there also becomes the opportunity for the intern to assist on a photo shoot.With an encouraging boss the intern gets the respon-sibility to assist her, chosen from all the other interns.

Rushed off their feet with time flying by, lunch break was skipped As it gets to 4pm she finally has a 30 minute break in the office canteen to rest her feet.

As the day draws to an end the intern and her co-work-ers flag a cab and head off for drinks at the meatpacking industry, to reward themselves after a hard days work.

THE INTERN

Behind the Scenes met with an Intern at Teen Vogue.

In the Upper West side of Manhattan it was a 7.00am early wake up call for the Intern, looking out over her balcony, begins another busy 12hour day. Picking out a navy jumpsuit and a pair of comfy heals making sure she looks on trend yet comfy for the day ahead.

Grabbing a slice of toast on foot she heads towards the subway. A short journey from 72nd street to Times Square at 9am she arrives outside the Conde Nast building. Riding the elevator up to the office where some of the worlds most talented publishers and innovative editors have been she arrives at floor 9 walking along the long modern built corridor and through the glass double doors she reaches the Teen Vogue office.

Sifting through racks of Mark Jacobs, Chloe and Phillip Lim, she rolls out the clothes racks into the hallways with one side holding working racks outside the Editors office and the other side holding clothes from past photo shoots, ready to be returned. The intern’s office is the fashion closet where there is a fashion assistant and anything from 5 to 10 interns per day.As the days vary, it usually consists of picking up samples and returning and check-

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THE INTERN

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Photo by Sophie Preston (Intern)

BEHINDTHE

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Katie Grand

Katie Grand is arguably one of the most influential people in fashion today. An Editor, Stylist extraordinaire and consultant for fashion houses, there is nothing the remarkable fashionista has

not achieved and cannot achieve in her lifetime.

Here, we look into her past and discover that she was just an ordinary girl who climbed the ladder to enormous success. Making people believe that anyone can achieve their dreams with hard work

and dedication.

ARTICLE

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“It’s clear that a new breed of magazines has arrived,” Editors wrote.

During her time at POP, Grand’s styling career exploded, advertisers were constantly battling for promotion in the magazine, and regularly asked her for contribution on their collections. Grand’s was becoming the household name, within the magazine industry. Everybody wanted her input, and she began incessant work with luxury brands; Louis Vuitton, Cavalli, Dior Homme, to name a few. As you might have expected, she is as much in demand from celebrities and their agents as the designers themselves. Dressing the likes of Agyness Deyn, Kate Moss and Madonna.

Katie styled the Spice Girls in their mid nineties glory days!

Grand edited Pop magazine for eight years before Conde Nast. Managing Director, Nicholas Coleridge approached Grand and made her an offer she could not refuse. Conde Nast is one of the biggest publishers in the world, publishing magazines such as, Vogue, GQ, Tatler and Elle. Her role would be editor-in-chief and co-founder of a new magazine. Together they collaborated and came up with the name of the new bespoke, style magazine, ‘LOVE’. Love was born, the new, edgy, experimen-tal magazine. With Katie Grand’s consider-able power and mysterious demeanor, the launch of the new Conde Nast publication, Love brings exciting diversity and future revelation.

Grand was just an ordinary nerdy teen from Birmingham, with a gap toothed smile and untamed hair. The 13 year old girl was given ‘Face Magazine’ and ‘Vogue’ when she was ill in bed one day. From that day on, she decided she wanted to go into the world of Fashion Magazines. After completing sixth form she began a foundation course at Birmingham’s Bournville College of Art where she was named Student of the Year after achieving a brilliant 96% in her results. In her late teens, she wrote to the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue at the time, Liz Tilberis, asking how she could become an editor one day. She advised her to attend Saint Martins College of Art and Design. Fortunately for Grand she successfully secured a place at Saint Martins. However like most girls her age, she went to college not knowing what she wanted to do; trying design, journalism, marketing and finally landing on print. Whilst at the college she began part time work with the newly launched magazine, Dazed and Confused. Grand helped with directing and styling the fashion shoots. After finishing college she carried on styling for Dazed, for most of the 90’s. In 1999, Katie was made Fashion Direc-tor of style bible, The Face and eventually in 2000, given her own magazine to set up. The inspirational fashion and art magazine POP, where she was appointed editor-in-chief. She made the magazine so powerful it instantly attracted fashion insiders and celebrities from everywhere.

“Her enthusiasm and joy for the fashion business and the role she plays in it shines forth like a beacon, one of the most in-demand stylists in the

country.”Evening Standard

ARTICLE

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Champagne, a gift to the editor from a designer.

Ali’s computer has a constant numerous amount of inspiration stories

Ediotrs direct phone.Coffee is a must on a morning for the Editor.

MEET MY DESK Editor-In-Chief of Look magazine, Ali Hall shows Behind The Scenes her office.

A pin up of over a years worth of back issues of Look. These are put up in the office to refer back to for future magazines. Looking at Layouts and front covers.

Other things you will find in the editors office

- Reference books - Post it notes. They help com-municate with the other staff for alterations or jot notes to editors about interesting newspaper articles found. - A diary that the Editor’s PA keeps track of. Each day packed with staff meetings, showroom appointments and other events.

MEET MY DESK Editor-In-Chief of Look magazine, Ali Hall shows Behind The Scenes her office.

Helen Francis, 33

Magazine: Look Magazine

Education: CAM Diploma in Media, Advertising & Marketing. A Level’s in English & Sociology

Office Manager

How did you end up working for the magazine?

I’d just finished an evening course in Media, Marketing & Advertising and had signed up to a recruitment agency which specialised in the field of media.It was literally a case of being in the right place at the right time…and me constantly chasing them to see if any positions had arisen. I had already ac-cepted a job elsewhere but didn’t want it! I joined 5 months prior to launch.

What is a typical day at work like?

Busy!I run the Editor’s diary, arrange appointments, tv & radio appearances & manage an office of 40 staff who always have tons of queries. I read approx 30 cv’s per day & arrange work experience candidates. Deal with freelance accounts, deal with reader queries, monitor & update our face-book page, compile features for the mag…the list is endless!

What is the most interesting part of your job?

Meeting new people, be it in the office, at PR events etc. Dealing with reader feedback and seeing how the mag evolves as a result of that. Getting involved in the organising of the Look Show. Compiling travel features and dis-count pages. Attending film screenings.

Most difficult part of your job?

Trying to juggle so many different jobs at once and trying to keep everyone happy & organised…but I’m pretty fab at it!

FASHION ROLES

An office manager has a wide range of responsibilities to carry out. These include, supervising other office staff, recruitment of new staff and interns and ensuring security and confidentiality of data in the office. Office managers also usually take on the role of PA (Personal Assistant) to the Editor-in-Chief.

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Advice you would give someone wanting to go into your role at a magazine?

- Email as many contacts as possible, but don’t keep pestering!

- If people want you they will get in touch

- Have a can do attitude

- Only join agencies who recruit for media positions

- Have complete faith in yourself

................ AND always have a smile on your face (even if you’re having the day from hell!)

LOOK MAGAZINE

FASHION ROLES

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Fashion News Editor

A typical day for a Fashion News Editor is varied;

• Writing stories about new collections hitting the rails• Developing relationships with photographers, stylists and

local designers. • Creating themes for stories to then be shot by a photographer• Giving their verdict on celebrities latest red carpet gowns• Interviewing some of the most influential people in fashion• Seeing all of the new lines before everyone else.• Attending retail events • Lunching with PR’s • Discounted clothes• Opportunities to travel

Hardest parts of the role

• Fast-pace and trying to juggle so many tasks at once. • Having to turn away PR’s, photographers and models• It becomes very under pressure being the decision maker for

a lot of things to do with the magazine.

There is plenty of jobs for a Fashion News Assistant to be getting on with on a typical day at work

Most days would always involve emailing PR’s and searching for products on the web, researching fashion trends and writing about the seasons trends. Other tasks include finding clothes matches for celebrtiy looks and and getting high resolution images and prices of garments to put in the magazine.

An intersting part of their role is of course the clothes. Fashion news assistants get to have a sneak peek at the collections before they hit stores. Another high light is seeing the final layout of pages the assitant had created in the magazine.

A difficult part for most people in the magazine industry is working on tight deadlines and time management. Alot of issues staff come acorss is not managing to reply ot all of their emails they recieve as there is never enough time in a day.

FASHION ROLES

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Fashion News Assistant

FASHION ROLES

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Fashion Assistant


I worked as a style assistant for the London paper and was recommended for the position by the fashion editor there. I started as junior fashion assistant and was promoted to fashion assistant shortly after.


HECTIC! Very varied, no day is the same. I can be working on call ins and shoots one day to celebrity matches and catwalk copies the next.


Styling shoots and meeting all the PR’s that we work with.

What is the most difficult part of your job?

Have to strike a balance between creativity and organization, both are very important. Always need to remain calm, however busy and learning to prioratise is one of the most useful skills I have learnt.

Advice you would give someone wanting to go into your role?

Work experience. Try and get an internship which goes for 3 to 6 months, you will learn more and be give more responsibilities.

Hannah Eichler, 22


Education: Degree in Writing Fashion A levels in English, Business studies and Textiles

FASHION ROLES

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Freelance Fashion Assistant

After work experience at a fashion magazine, if you are lucky you may be asked back and offered a job. Most people working at a magazine start as a freelance fashion assistant, also known as a temporary member of

staff. Their roles are very similar to the Fashion Assistants.

• Organisingappointments• Call-insfromPR’s• Writingupcredits• Assistingonphotoshoots• Gettinghi-resimages• Writingforthewebsiteandmagazine• Stylingfeatureshoots• Makingappointmentsfortheeditors• Workingwiththeinterns• Organizingthefashioncloset

‘The most interesting part of my job as a freelance is, being out on lcation for feature shoots and assisting main fashion shoots.’

Rachel Story, Look Magazine Fashion Assistant

FASHION ROLES

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Fashion styling is everygirlsdream job.To reach this role inparticular, youhave tohavealotofexperienceunderyourbelt.Allworkexperienceisusuallyunpaidsoit iswisetohaveaweekend jobor try staywith a friendwho lives locally to the internship.Mostmagazineswantatleast6monthsexperiencebeforetheyconsideryouforafulltimejob,sogetapplying!

Stylists are constantly busy if its not calling in clothes it’s booking photographers,studios, hair and make-up artists, meeting models or shooting. Stylists also get theopportunity to travel abroad for photo shoots, which is definitely one of their highlights.

THE FASHION STYLIST

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Twoyearsworthofworkexperience.ThenlandedmyfirstjobatHappyimageasafashionassistant.IheardaboutastylistjobopeningatInStylesoIap-pliedandgotthejob!


Nosuchthingasatypicalday,thatiswhyitissuchagreatjob.


Shootingandstyling.Itssupercreativeandfun.Itsalsoexcitinggoingonpressappointmentsasit’sabitlikeshopping.

Petro Stofberg, 25


Education : Undergrduate degree in English and History of Art & Masters in Fashion Journalism

What is the most difficult part of your job?

Beingcontantlybusy,workingonaweeklyisrelent-less,alwayshavingtocomeupwithnewideasallthetime.Sometimesyoufeellessinspiredthanothers.

Advice you would give someone wanting to go into your role?

Goforonline!Printmediaisashrinkingbusinessandjobsarebecominghardertoland.Onlineisthefutureandprettyeasyatthemomenttogetwork.

FASHION ROLES

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A DAY IN THE LIFE

OF A STYLIST

......................................Freelance Fashion Stylist, Hollie Race introduces Behind The Scenes to her

style of work and walks us through the time and effort put into each outfit and how they are pieced together to form a trend.

FASHION ROLES

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Photography by Danielle AllenStyling by Hollie Race

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This look we used was the vintage red skater dress, which was chosen for its summery bold block colour. The groovy raspberry red instigates an immediate energy. With the A -line cut hem and no collar, this dress is an direct hit for that ultimate 70’s street rocker chick. I took inspiration from the S/S Paul and Joe collection by adding the staple acces-sory, Obi Belt. The outfit is finished with a leopard print scarf and clog shoe boots.

This Chloe inspired look is lead by the nude leather and chiffon shirt. The chiffon is cut to fall beautifully just below the waste, with the leather cuffs to finish the sleeves. This roman-tic design has been styled together with leather pants and a splash of colour has been added in the turquoise and burgundy rings. Together these items create a dark and romantic style.

Nude is executed through and through Spring/Summer seasons’ trends, mak-ing it essential to own at least one item. This little vintage number was found and I immediately loved it. It is simple with a hint of seduction, shadowing the usual high wasted number. It has been paired with the ultimate Kate Moss collection, creating a daring concept with the use of the cut out mesh detail. The outfit has been finished with the Obi belt, and the white jacket to create a Glamorous finish.

FASHION ROLES

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Finally, the ultimate staple wardrobe piece, The Black leather Dress. This fitted bodycon dress with suede panelling is the perfect traffic stopper. Accessorised with the Iconic Alexander McQueen ring and a silk skull scarf, this outfit highlights pure summer seduction. Boys and bitches…beware.

Leopard print is a continuous addition to current fashion trends, so how could we go through this shoot without it? Getting the right print however is essential, the smaller the print the more delicate and sophisticated. This beautiful all in one is finished with a classic white blazer. This outfit is simple, but creates a really feminine and sexy, underwear as outterwear look from day right through to night.

FASHION ROLES

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Photography by Danielle AllenStyling by Hollie Race

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BEHINDTHE

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ONLINE

People in the magazine industry believe online will have an effect on jobs in print media in the future, however this will mean more jobs available for people online. The outcome of this could be small or could be large but this is only the beginning of the constant, growing digital era. A lot of resource and effort goes into the publishing of magazines, most companies have a small online team, which in time will grow as the online industry grows, this will make more money and begin carrying more and more responsibilities.

Producing magazines is expensive, and a lot of the cost comes from paper, postage and circulation, in order to save expenses a lot of magazines have turned to online. At the moment people are using both online and print media magazines however, online is slowly becoming more popular due to the advancement of technology and how it’s cheaper to run an online magazine. This is due to no distribution costs. In an effort to “go green” and “save the world,” the changes must take place, creating eco friendly awareness as the use of paper decreases.

As online becomes more popular this should not be a threat to job seekers as there is still copious amounts of jobs that are available in the industry, if not more. The good thing about jobs for online media is that they are plentiful. Editing, producing, online research and content creation are growing areas in the media world because so many magazine companies are eager to capture readers online. Interestingly it is a relatively new field so a lot of experimentation is going on and more and more jobs are becoming available to help with the fast growing online industry.

The future of Online media

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The iPad apps are vastly increas-ing in popularity within the magazine industry. The great thing about these new digital tablets is they are easy to travel with and the accessible Internet encourages people to use online over print. All fashion magazines are slowly going to adapt to this idea and create their own online magazine and iPpad apps, to keep up with the fast paced fashion industry. Fashion magazines already up and runnning include, Vogue, Esquire, GQ, Dazed and Interview. This shows that this is just the beginning of the digital era.

Inevitably, the availability of online versions of magazines will effect the print media industry, and possibly eventu-ally replace print which will in turn have an effect on the size of the print media industry, however it will not completely eliminate it. Even though online magazines do have some advantages, they still don’t quite provide all the benefits of print that would allow people to completely divorce people from purchasing print magazines.

‘The future lies with the internet, and those newspapers that survive will be those that produce truly original content’.

Stephen Brook, Guardian

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What education and training is involved to become a web editor?I didn’t take a very traditional route to get here, I did English at university, and before that I did an art foundation course specializing in fashion, so my intentions was to go into fashion journalism. Then after a few jobs on papers and generally in the press, I got a job at Asos and that’s where I got all of my web experience from before this job, so I sup-pose it shows you don’t have to take the traditional route necessarily. I think people value experience much, more than they do education.

So if you think if someone at Uni was unfortunate and got a low grade but had lots of experience they would still be in with a chance at their dream job?Absolutely, yes its all about the experience and I went to Asos and I got there because of my fashion writing skills, when I joined the company it was literally just me doing all the writing for the whole website, and it grew and grew from there and the whole time I was there I made an effort, and its one thing u must do, absorb as much information as you can, even if its not directly related to what your working on.

I was fashion writing but I still took note of other things, like the tech stuff, how other people who worked on the website made things happen. I think if you apply that get experience, soak up as much as you can talk to as many people as you can out-side your direct report. It shows, from doing that I got promoted to be editorial manager and built up an editorial team that didn’t exist at the time, so absolutely it think yes education is crucial because it shows your cpapable but experience shows for so much.

Online Editor

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Behind The Scenes meets with Online Editor of Look Magazine, Kate Stephens. She tells us about her views on online and print media and her role in the industry.

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What differences was there between working for Asos and Look?Well fundamentally one is a retailer and one is a publisher, so your objectives are slightly different, with Asos its about selling clothes with Look its more entertainment, its media to be consumed, we then add ways of making money, we layer things on top, we make money by selling clothes, the reader doesn’t come to the site thinking this is a retailer. So that kind of changes how you work and how you approach planning and what features your going to do. With Asos it was all very considered and a lot of decisions were made as a business it was like we know these are our best selling dresses we need to do a feature about these dresses pacifically, where as at look its a lot more about using our opinions and that being an authority.

Do you think online is becoming more popular than magazines?Well I think at the moment people are using both, I think the distinction between ‘I’m going to find out about fashion online, or I’m going to read it in a magazine, the boundaries are blurred, and people to both as a matter of course, I don’t think we have reached the tipping point yet where magazines are going to start dying and websites completely take over but it is evening out it will take over I’m abso-lutely sure. I don’t think they will completely dye out magazines are a ritual, you’ll find that they are a special experience.

Online is the future? What are your views?There will always be space for magazines, I work on-line and I would always stil buy magazines, because of the experience of it. I do think that the magazine market is massive and possibly saturated it depends who u ask, but a lot of magazines are going online as well. Vogue have just launched their I pad app. So you can actually buy Vogue as the full magazine as an app. So they’re functioning together, so if I had no access to a newsagent I would download the app, and have the full magazine on there I think the I pad makes a big difference with things like that its easier and they look gorgeous, the pictures look amazing. But not everyone has them yet but we’re getting there.

Do you think there are more jobs going for online magazines?Its growing now, I think historically much more

resource always goes into the magazine, and then there is a small online team and you’ll find online teams will start growing because the websites are growing. And starting to make more and more money and carrying more weight.

What inspired you to become a website editor?It was quite random. I always wanted to be an edi-tor, and that’s what I started out to be, that’s why I did English and fashion, and started working on local papers. I got to Asos and that’s when I really properly dis-covered the web. I just loved the fast pace of it and how flexible it was and the potential and possibili-ties with online I found very exciting. As soon as I made that step I knew that would be it then.

What are your top priorities when deciding what should go on the website?It’s a mixture, its quite technical we monitor all the activity on the website, one of the key things is what is doing well, who do people like, what’s generating the traffic to the website. It could be a celebrity say take, Cheryl Cole we put her on the website because we know she generates traffic. We know people want to see her outfits and get the looks. We spin different stories off on that. So we’re monitoring what’s doing well we do a lot of research on what drives traffic across the fashion sector for example hair styles, we know that its re-ally sought after online so we target content around there which is why were filming hair styling videos now. The magazine what’s going in the magazine, we try and link up and we’ll be doing a lot more of that as well. So what u see in the magazine get more of it or shop it or get n extra bonus if you go online. Also what’s going on and what we think and what we like and what we think our readers will like too.

What is your working environment like?Mental in a good way, its busy there is never time to get bored, its fantastic there’s always things to do. It is hard work, but there are the perks, we all love fashion in this office and that’s why we have come in to do it. Its fun and its combining your passion with what you love, and I would say that’s true for absolutely everyone here.

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Production Editor


I worked in IPC already and fancied moving on. Heard about the (top-secret!) new launch and, knowing there was a multi-million investment in it and so it wouldn’t close too quickly (and was therefore fairly risk-free), applied for the job. And got it.


It depends on what the day throws up as the issue progresses but, generally, it’s pretty busy – lots of chasing people to get copy done/read proofs etc. Towards the end of the week, a lot of time is spent signing off the final pages from the repro house so they can be sent to the printer.


Managing a large editorial team to ensure the magazine comes out on time every week.

Most difficult part of your job?

Managing a large editorial team to ensure the magazine comes out on time every week!

Advice you would give someone wanting to go into your role at a magazine?

Start as a sub editor and work your way up. As a sub, you need to have excellent attention to detail, a second-to-none grasp of English and be organised and efficient in your way of working.

Toby Evans, 36

Magazine: Look

Education - MA level

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AboveisanexampleofaworkingprogresslayoutforLookmagazine.TheimageshavealreadybeeneditedinPhotoshopandonthenextstepofeditinginInDesign.Theimagesandtextwillbelaidoutinthedesiredpositionsandanyotherdesigns

suchasbordersandunderlining.

A production editor is an integral role in the magazine as he/she designs the layouts ofthemagazine.ToproducethelayouttheapplicationsusedaremainlyInDesignandPhotoshop.Theskillsrequiredinthisareaareverysignificant.Photoshopisusedfor

photoeditingandInDesignisusedtodesignthelayoutsandspreads.

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HOW TO BECOME A BEAUTY WRITER

To become a beauty writer make sure you know what you’retalking about. Knowledge weather its in hair or beauty iscrucial. Improve your understanding of beauty by working parttime in a department store in summer holidays or inbetweenuniversity studies.Doing thiswill improveyourunderstandingofbeautyasyouwillgettoknowallthedifferenttechniquesandtrends.Starting a blog is very beneficial if you’re wanting togo into writing try and regularly write articles for yourblog so when you have interviews for jobs in the area,potential publishers can see where your skills are in writing.

Build your CV. Include your written pieces that show yourexpertise in the beauty industry. Print out tear sheets ofyour online writing, as well as any other writing you want tofeature, so that your resume is ready when opportunitiesarise. Practice writing cover letters for when a job comes up.

Submit your CV and attach articles and reviews to beautymagazines or fashion magazines with beauty editors andassistants. Once you have experience and articles to supportyourCVfindasmany jobopportunities aspossible andget yourCVand cover letter sent out to them,whether its email or letter.

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Beauty Writer & Assistant

Katie Selby, 28


Education – Fashion Degree – LCF Catwalk & Editorial Image

How did you end up working for the magazine?After a year and a half of internships at dif-ferent publishing houses I got my first job at Eve magazine as a Beauty Assistant. I then freelanced at Grazia magazine before com-ing to Look as a Beauty Writer.

What is a typical day at work like?Busy! The deadlines at a weekly magazine are never ending. A typical day involves everything and anything from organizing beauty shoots to researching for beauty products, writing articles to coming up with story ideas.

What is the most interesting part of your job?Getting to meet and work with the many different people, photographers, models etc.

What is the most difficult part of your job?Keeping up with the fast pace of the maga-zine. You need to be super organized on a weekly magazine.

Advice you would give someone wanting to into your role?Get as much magazine work experience as you can.

Behind The Scenes meets with a Beauty Writer and Assistant from the well known fashion magazines Look and InStyle. They tell us about their roles, highs and lows and typical

days, working in the beauty departments.

Katie Service, 23

Magazine - InStyle Magazine

Education – Communications Degree

How did you end up working for the magazine?I interned with the magazine in 2009 and was asked to come back to help out as a beauty assistant.

What is a typical day at work like?Assisting the Beauty Editor and writer, compiling the test factor pages, speaking to PR’s and going to events.

What is the most interesting part of your job?Discovering new products and trends. The fast paced days keep it busy and interesting.

What is the most difficult part of your job?The tight deadlines!

Advice you would give someone wanting to go into your role?Build up a strong network of PR’s – its invaluable.

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Behind The Scenes

& Beauty . . . .

BehindTheScenesmeetswithBeautyAssistantandMake-upartist,JemmaJewitt.

Jemmatakesusthroughastepbystepguidetomake-up,usingtheverypopular,MACmake-up.Sheintroducesfourdifferenttrends,including,howtoapplyanddifferent

techniquessheuses.

Raw-Fined

Step 1: Make sure the skin is well primed using a good moisturiser, Comfort Crème is perfect for this very cooling on the skin, you then want to prime the face using a face primer this will create a per-fect second flawless skin for this base visage works a treat! I then added a little strobe cream to give a iridescent glow to the face.

Step 2: Now we wanted to work the skin, however we wanted to make it look as if there wasn’t any product on there so using a no.187 brush I buffed a Studio Sculpt and Careblend Oil combination into the skin this gave a very dewy glow.

Step 3: I then contoured using darker shades of studio sculpt foundation, then to highlight I used a little of Sun Rush Lustre Drop and buffed that around the “C” of the eyes.

Step 4: For the eyes I simply used one coat of Brownette Plush lash for a very natural lash look. I didn’t use eyeshadow as this is more about the skin.

Step 5: On the lips I used Soothing Beige Lip conditioner this helps to hydrate the lips, perfect for summer! It’s a little darker than skin tone so it was perfect! I then added a little clear gloss.

BEAUTY

Simple yet beautiful skin, this trend is all about using different textures, highlighting, eyebrows and nude

lips. A very day time look.

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Ice Dream

Step 3: I buffed beautiful iris all over the eye right up to the eyebrows and underneath the eye.

Step 4: I added so sweet so easy to the cheeks to give a candy pink blush, I then added, St Germain to the lips for a full ice dream look!

Step 1: Make sure the skin is well primed using a good moisturiser, Comfort Crème is perfect for this very cooling on the skin, you then want to prime the face using a face primer this will create a perfect sec-ond flawless skin for this base visage works a treat! I then added a little strobe cream to give a iridescent glow to the face.

A very pretty and girly trend, embracing pastel colours. This trend is all about soft, chalky shades

that are becoming the new neutrals.

Step 2: Now we wanted to work the skin, however we wanted to make it look as if there wasn’t any product on there so using a #187 brush I buffed a Studio Sculpt and Careblend Oil combination into the skin this gave a very dewy glow.

BEAUTY

Pop Classic

Step 1: Make sure the skin is well primed using a good moisturiser, Comfort Crème is perfect for this very cooling on the skin, you then want to prime the face using a face primer this will create a perfect second flawless skin for this base visage works a treat! I then added a little strobe cream to give a iridescent glow to the face.


Step 3: For this look its all about shapes, so I added a bright or-ange lip using morange and neo orange pigment to the lips.

Step 4: I used a small amount of black liner for a very simple yet striking look

This trend is all about the lip and liner, classic shapes like cat eye, or rounded smoky eyes

with a twist.

BEAUTY

Terra Copper

Step 1: Make sure the skin is well primed using a good moisturiser, Comfort Crème is perfect for this very cooling on the skin, you then want to prime the face using a face primer this will create a perfect second flawless skin for this base visage works a treat! I then added a little strobe cream to give a iridescent glow to the face.

Step3:IthenbuffedGivemeSunpressedpowderoverthetopofGolddepositIthenusedwood-winkedeyeshadowcontouredbyespressoeyeshadowforagoldeneye.Added48lashesforamoredramatic look.

Step4:Onthelipswejustusedlotsofcleargloss.

All about the bronze, gold and coppers. Sculpted cheeks in honey and buff tones, lips lacquered in caramels and highlight-

ed complexions.


Raw Fined

Raw FinedPhotography and Styling by Danielle AllenMake-up and hair by Jemma jewitt

Ice Dream

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POP CLASSIC72

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Studio Photography

Studio photography is alot more straight forward than location becasue you can get exactly what you want. Soft light, hard light, coloured back drops. Everything is in your control. However if you are an amateur, setting up the studio takes can be difficult. There is alot of technical equipment to set up in the studio; lighting, backgrounds, camera lenses etc. If this equipment is not set up correctly your pictures could result in a disaster lookingflat and boring.

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Photography by Danielle Allen

Studio Photography SNAP Studios, London

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All models used for fashion magazines, meet with the stylist before the shoot for a casting. Depending on what the shoot is for sometimes two or more models will be used. These models are more than likely to have a distinction between them such as, a brunette and a blonde. The clothes will be divided onto a rail in order of the photoshoot.

A studio shoots usually begin at 9am and finishes at around 4pm.

9.00am - Arrive at the studio, unpack outfits

10.00 - Have breakfast with models, photogra pher, stylist and assistants.

10.30 - Organise outfits to each model and make sure they are in order of the shoot.

11.00 - Begin shooting, inbetween shoots dressing the models in the next outfits, hanging the last outfit back up

12..30 - Stop for lunch

01.30 - Carry on shooting

03.30 - Pack up all the outfits neatly, make sure everything that came to the shoot is going back.

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Above are some of the final shots from the photoshoot, which went into the magazine.

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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1. Fashion reflector

1. Photogrpaher Takes the pictures2. Models Three proffesional models were needed for the shoot3. Stylist Stylist is on the shoot to make sure the outfits are worn correctly by the models4. Assistant The assistant will dress the models, and help with props on the shoot. e.g fanning the models to give a wind effect.5. Reflector Used to reflect light towards the models6. Tripod Used as a platform for supporting the weight and maintaining the stability of the camera.7. Fan Used to creat a wind effect for the photoshoot. 8. Stand A prop for the models to give them height.

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Preparing for a fashion show is a crucial time for Editors and Stylists at a magazine. Behind the Scenes visits a magazine’s

Spring/Summer 2011 fashion show for London Fashion Week.


Set up of a Fashion Show

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FASHION SHOWS

Behind The Scenes goes backstage at the Look Fashion Show at London Fashion week. We got the opportunity to experience the work that goes on behind the scenes to create the show,

from organising gift bags, dressing models backstage and hair and make-up

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Backstage hair & make-up Spotted, backstage at the Look Fashion Show S/S 2011. Models are having their hair styledby Toni & Guy and Make-up by Benefit. The brands are both very popular for Londonfashion week events. Last minute touch ups of the hair and make-up are carried out beforegoingonstage.Theartistswillstaybehindforoutfitchangesincaseanymoretouch-upsareneeded.

The Dressers at Fashion Shows are usually interns or fashion assistants who work for the magazine. Assisting back stage is always an unpaid job for interns. However it is very valuable for your CV. The

fashion shows need people with willingness and organization skills to deal with the fast-paced events.

The Dressers Diary . . . .

FASHION SHOWS

Dresser at the Look Fashion Show in London.

Dresser diary by Danielle Allen.

9:30 – The venue for the show was The Saatchi Gallery, I signed in at the gate and headed up a few stairs into the build-ing. The security guard points me in the direction of the backstage area. Here we go. The backstage area was surpris-ingly large. On one side were rails of dresses, wrapped in clear bags the other side was clear for the models to line up for the show and to see their final outfit before going onto the stage. At the end of the room was a table full of drinks and snack food. We all sat around for a while, then one of the fashion assistants said we could come and get breakfast from the first floor. Someone had obviously paid a very large bill at Pret A Manger . There was fruit, croissants, fresh juice and yoghurts.

10:00 – We are asked to allocate the out-fits next to each models name. Once they were all found we took the outfits out the plastic bags and organized them neatly. The fashion director allocated us all to a rail, assigning us to two models to dress each. We were all given a list of rules. ‘Do not pull the zip straight up, hold it gen-tly and lift it inch by inch. Wear gloves if handling a light coloured dress. Put tis-sue paper over the models faces to ensure that no make up gets on the dresses’.

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11:00 – By 11 the models began arriving for hair and make-up for the first run through which started at 1:00pm, some of the models needed fittings for a few outfits so they immediately came back-stage. Most models went straight up to the second floor for hair and make-up.

12.00 - The models polaroids had been glued onto big cardboard sheets so we could memorise their faces. ‘Don’t let your model out of your sight’, I was told. All the models look absolutely identical. Fair skin, plump lips, dark blonde hair, big eyes, tall and skinny. I strike up a conversation with one of my models, Daphne, but she is quiet and sullen. She tells me that she is tired after just having flown in from Austria but is doing as many shows as possible to raise her profile.

1:00 It was lunch time, and Pret A Manger was on the menu again, which I was very pleased about, gorgeous salads, wraps and sandwiches were up for grabs

2:00 The fashion director shouts out ‘RUN THROUGH NOW!’ She stood with a clip-board at the front of the line calling out each of the models names and sends them in time down the runway. ‘Natalia, Alexandra, Irina, Maria etc.’

3.00 – After the run through we had a small break for half an hour just before the final show.

3:30 - With all the models nearly dressed and show time looming, the whole room suddenly seemed to descend into chaos. Stylist was running around with pieces of jewelry whilst the hair and makeup team did last minute touch ups. The fashion director was shouting into her head set and the atmosphere became intense. This was it.

4.00 – The models are all lined up ready to go on stage, the fashion director is at the front telling the models when to walk. Scrambling to help my models out of one look and into another the show finally comes to an end. Everyone is happy and satisfied with the outcome which then leads on to the after party for cocktails.

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Useful Resources

Website - http://www.fashionmonitor.com

Website - http://www.fashion.arts.ac.uk

http://www.drapersjobs.com

http://www.fsrl.co.uk/

http://www.fashionunited.co.uk/

The most up to date contacts, news and events available in the fashion and beauty industry.Contains the most wanted vacancies in the fash-ion and beauty industry.. Including, PR, Marketing, Media and Creative Resources.

Contains creative opportunities for under and re-cent graduates. Jobs include; full time, part time, temporary jobs, freelance and internships.

A great site to start your search for the perfect fashion job. Whether you are just starting your career or an experienced fashion professional.

Four Seasons handle fashion and retail jobs at all levels, from Graduate entry level to Director and have placed candidates into a wide range of dis-ciplines including Design, Retail, Buying, Visual Merchandising, Technical, Production, Merchan-dising and Retail Management

Fashion United contains many Fashion Jobs and opportunities, such as, desingers, merchandis-ers, sales managers, store managers, buyers, import merchandisers and internships.

Below are a number of different websites which contain up to date job vacancies in the fashion industry. The different websites include job opportunities in all areas of the industry from styling to News Assistant to Internships.

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http://www.workinfashion.com

http://www.prospects.ac.uk/index.htm

http://www.careermagazine.co.uk

A professional and social newtwork for the fashion industry. Search fashion jobs in all areas of the industry from design to retail, graduate jobs to management positions.

The Official Graduate Careers Website - the best way to find graduate jobs, postgraduate courses, work experience and careers advice.

Career Magazine is devoted to those who want to improve their professional life by finding a new job. Search UK jobs and post CVs., and let recruiters find you.

http://www.ed2010.com/

Ed2010 is based in America, helping you find your magazine dream job. Focusing on permantent jobs and internships in fashion capitals, NYC and LA.

http://dailyfashionjobs.com/

Based in America, containig lists of up to date job oppertunities for under and recent graduates.

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Behind the Scenes

Documents

Transcript of Behind the Scenes