~BCab-LessonTwo
Transcript of ~BCab-LessonTwo
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Copyright 2012 by Shawkl Designs, All Rights Reserved
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Objectives for Lesson Two: Learn how to use surface
beading techniques to secure the base rose of beads
surrounding a cabochon and complete the first row and
reduction row of peyote stitch to encase each cabochon.
GENERAL:
Now that the cabochons are secured by glue to a piece of felt,
they will be encased with beads. Essentially, a wall of beadswill be created to surround the cabochon and the top of that
wall will curve inward. This will successfully trap the
cabochon since the wall of beads will be sewn to the felt at
the bottom and curve up the side and over the top of the
cabochon. In the next lesson a beaded fringe added to the
cabochon.
SURFACE BEADING:The most important rule of beading on a surface is to ensure
that every bead is secure. For encasing cabochons we will use
a back-stitch motion to allow the beading needle to pass
through each bead more than once.
How we place the needle is critical. It should be at a vertical
position, immediately in front of the bead when you needle
down (left photo). Be careful that you do notslant the needle (right
photo), as this will cause
the beads to jump up
and not lie flat against
the felt.
Bead Encrusted Cabochons/Buttons
LESSON TWO
Please READ THE ENTIRE LESSON Before Beginning.
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The beads should line up straight as they are stitched around
the cabochon base. They should be snug against the side of
the cabochon, and against each other. The cabochon is glued
to the felt, probably just in the center. So, be careful that you
do not stitch the beads under the edge of the cabochon.
Keep the felt pressed against the back of the cabochon for the
area you are working to bead.
The base row of beads will be the Size #11 Delica seed beads.
This style of bead is very uniform in size and shape, and
makes a wonderful base for different styles of surface beading
and loom work. Use a color that matches your cabochon.
(If you have the kit, start with the black cabochon...and blackSize #11 Delicas.)
It is really hard to photograph tiny beads, so Im going to
include loads of charts too. The beading process photographs
in this lesson will have different colors for the felt, beads, and
thread than you would normally use on the cabochon...to
help you distinguish the different parts. YOUR cabochons will
not use these colors of lime and hot pink.
It is important that one continuous thread is used to create
the beading. This might take some practice to become
accustomed to working with long threads; but practice will
soon make you comfortable with the process.
When your thread knots up (and it will)...place your needle
into the loop and pull up until the knot is released. For
more severe problems, unthread the needle...work the knot
loose...and rethread the needle. If you cut the thread, you
start over. So practice patience and work that knot out!
BEADING THE BASE ROW: Start by cutting about 2 yards of
beading thread; thread you needle; and create a knot at the
long end. Bring your needle up next to the cabochon...snug
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against the side. Take a couple of tiny stitches to ensure that
the thread is secure.
Make sure that you end the stitches with the needle coming
up from the back to the front of the felt...snug next to thecabochon.
Load two beads (place two Delica Size #11
seed beads on the needle). Slide these two
beads down the thread until they rest
upon the felt. Scoot them as far down
the thread as possible and place your
needle directly in front of the beads
(remember not to slant the needle).
Needle down through the felt. Needle
back up in the back of the two beads, and bring the thread
back through the beads.
Repeat the stitch one more time,
ending with the needle exiting the
two beads. This will secure the
beads to the felt surface.
The remaining beads on this row
will be stitched as sets of TWO
beads. This is not a random decision. Using two beads
instead of one, three, four etc. will easily allow us to
determine that we are using an EVEN NUMBER/AMOUNT of
beads for our base row. If we used a different sequence to
stitch, we would have to count the beads as we neared the
end of the row.
There are beading books that teach stitching a set of THREE
beads at a time. However, this is for basic surface
beading...and not for creating the base row for Even-Weave
Peyote Stitch In-The-Round as we are doing.
RIGHT WAY
WRONG WAY
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Lesson Two, Exercise 1
1. Read the Entire Section on Surface Beading.
2. Read the Quick Step Guide on pages 6-7.
3. Using the Quick Step Guide as reference, stitch the basebead row (Size #11 Delicas for each of the three
cabochons/buttons). Remember to (1) do not cut your
thread and (2) use beads in a color that matches the
individual cabochon.
4. Post a photo of your completed base rose cabochons in
your Photo Album on the Yahoo Class Site. (Separately or
all three at once is okay.)
5. If you are unsure of any step, go back and read the
Section on Surface Beading again...and ask question on
the forum.
Before we begin the next row; lets look again at creating the
base row. Because people learn differently, Im including a
photo step-by-step shortcut section for the base row. It is
important that you understand creating the base row...and do
that correctly before you start building up on top of this row.
So, take the time to read the detailed section and to look at
the charts again. Then, when you grasp the information, you
should be able to use the Quick Step Guide as a reference.
Only AFTER you have read the Quick Step Guide on pages 6-
7 should you then complete the first exercise.
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Quick Step Guide to Surface Beading
the Base Bead Row on a Cabochon
Step 1: Glue the cabochon
(or shankless button) to a
scrap of felt with E-6000 (or
equivalent) glue. Let dry.
Step 2: Cut about 2 yards
of beading thread, and
thread into a beading
needle. Knot the end. Needle
up beside the cabochon,snug against the side. Take a couple of tiny stitches to
secure the thread into the felt. End with thread out at the
front of the cabochon.
Step 3: Load two size #11
Delica seed beads. Slide
these beads down towards
the cabochon. Keep them
snug against the side, and at
the end of the thread. Needle
down directly in front of
these. Needle up behind them
and bring the thread through
the two beads.
Step 4: Needle down in front
of the two beads again, bring
the thread up behind them; bring the needle through the
two beads once more. Keep these and ALL base beads snug
against the side of the cabochon and snug against each
other.
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Step 5: Load two more beads. Slide them to the end of the
thread, against the
previous beads.
Step 6: Needle down in
front of these two beads.
Needle up between the
two beads loaded in the
last step. Needle through
the three beads.
There are now four beads
secured to the felt, and to
each other.
Step 7: Repeat Step 6 until you have beaded around the
cabochon and have space for only two more beads. This
base must have an EVEN number of beads. So, if you have
too much room for just the last two beads...pull the thread
tighter, it is okay to space them slightly as well.
Step 8: Load the last
two beads and pass
the needle through
the next 4-5 beads
(these were the very
first beads stitched to
the felt).
This completes the
surface beaded base
row of stitching.
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SURROUNDING THE CABOCHON:
Now that you have a good solid row of an even number of
beads (called the foundation ring); you can begin to build
your wall of beads to surround your cabochon. The height ofthe wall will be determined by the height of the cabochon
side...the amount of smaller size
beads to cap the wall will depend
on your individual taste and the
image (or lack thereof) on the
cabochon face.
In this drawing, the side of this cabochon would be tall
enough for two rows of beads before we would start to
reduce the bead size. It is also possible to mix the beads in
a row so you have a slight reduction. We will be doing both of
these techniques in the class.
For now, just understand that the side of the cabochon will
determine the number of rows, and when you decide to
reduce the bead size.
Note on this drawing, also that the smaller bead of the
reduction row is actually leaning over the edge of the
cabochon. This action is what encapsulates the cabochon
and traps it to the felt. Even if the E-6000 glue ever decided
to release...the cabochon would be held in place by the row of
reduction beads (smaller size beads).
The next portion of the lesson will teach you how to bead
these next rows. But, not all of the rows will be needed for
each of the cabochons...since the height of their walls are
different. So, Ive made a little chart to show you how many
rows we will be doing for the cabochons/buttons in the
kit...the black cameo, the white(blue) cameo, and the lilac
shank button.
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After the class...or if you are using any other style of
cabochon or button for the class, other than the kit
provided...you will need to determine when to start reducing
and how many rows by looking carefully at the height of the
side of the cabochon/button (Remember that the side does
not consider the dome of the top...if that is confusing...go
back to Lesson 1 and read that area again.)
Several things are apparent just by looking at this chart:
1) Each of the cabochon/buttons will have a Foundation Row
of Size 11 beads...which you have just completed.
2) The White/Blue Cameo Cabochon and the Lilac Glass
Button will use Size 15 beads for all of the bead
rounds...after the Foundation Row.
3) The Black Cameo will use Size 11 Beads for the first bead
round Part A then change to Size 15 beads for Part B.
4) The Black Cameo is the only cabochon/button to have a
Round 2, and will only have Part A of this second bead
round.
We will start with the Black Cameo because it has more rows.
Cabochons Beading Sequence & Delica Bead Size (Kit)
Beading Rows
and Bead Size
Black Cameo White/Blue
Cameo
Lilac Glass
Button
Foundation Size 11 Size 11 Size 11
Round 1A Size 11 Size 15 Size 15
Round 1B Size 15 Size 15 Size 15
Round 2A Size 15 N/A N/A
Round 2B N/A N/A N/A
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Before we begin the next row of beading, stop and look at
your thread. If you cut the amount instructed; you should
have plenty to complete the remainder of this section.
However, if you did not...you will have problems. So, if you
think that you might not have enough thread...heres what
you do. Actually, anytime you dont think you have enough
thread to continue a round...or if you wish to change the
color of beading thread in use...follow these instructions:
Changing Thread:Take your needle down between the beads
and to the back of the felt. Turn the cabochon over and
anchor the thread to the back securely. Make sure that you
are stitching WITHIN the stitched area and not outside ofit...or you work will be cut when the felt is trimmed later on.
Then, cut a new length of thread, thread the needle, made a
knot. Anchor the knot into the back of the felt piece, near
where you want to start beading again...by taking a couple of
tiny stitches. Bring your needle back to the front of the felt,
between the beads...to exit in exactly the spot you would have
been, if the thread was not too short to continue.
Even Weave Peyote Stitch, In-the-Round:
In-the-Round simply means that is goes around something
and not in a straight line. If you were using the Peyote Stitch
in a straight line, it would be FLAT Peyote Stitch.
Rounds of Peyote Stitch are worked in two parts. We shall
call them Round 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B, etc. Both parts
together make a solid round.
As before, well talk about what we are going to do...then Ill
give you a Quick Step Guide with actual photos of the
process. Read all sections and the guide before starting on
your Exercise #2. Look at the chart to determine the SIZE of
bead to use for each subsequent row.
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Peyote Stitch, Round 1A: Load a bead on your thread. This
bead needs to sit directly on top of the very first bead in the
foundation ring (after your thread has
exited).
So, skip that first bead and
needle into and out of the
next foundation row bead (i.e. Foundation Row Bead #2).
Load the next bead on your thread. This bead needs to sit
directly on top of the third bead in the foundation ring. So, we
skip this third bead
and needle into and
out of the next
foundation row bead
(i.e. Bead #4 on the
foundation row).
Continue in this manner...stacking the odd numbered beads
by skipping over them and needle through the even
numbered beads. This will start to create a zipper like
appearance with every other bead being joined by second
row bead on top. As you work around the cabochon the beads
will lay flat against the felt. Therefore, every 5-8 beads, pull
the thread taut and nudge the beads up with your finger, so
that they sit on top of the foundation row beads.
The more beads that are place in the Peyote Round 1A, the
more you should see the row changing. The foundation beads
will start to snuggle
closer into the felt.And the row will
appear to no longer
be flat. This can
be confusing to the
eye...but it is normal.
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During this beading step, the most common error is putting
the needle into the wrong bead. Usually, trying to needle into
the bead next to the one you just came out of...instead of
skipping one. Watch out for that! Take your time to avoid this
mistake. BUT...if/when it occurs(and it does to me at least
once EVERY time I bead Peyote Stitch!)...unthread the needle,
pull the thread back out of the beads that are incorrect
re-thread the needle...and correct the mistake.
Continue beading the Peyote Stitch Round 1A until you get
back to the starting of this row. When you place your last
bead of this round on your needle; skip that base bead (as
you have been doing) needle into and out of the next bead (asyou have been doing) and
then needle into and out of
the very first bead you placed
in the Peyote Stitch Round
1A row. This is called
stepping up.
It is necessary to step up in preparation for each new round
in Peyote Stitch. As you create more cabochon surrounds,you will do this automatically.
Lesson Two, Exercise 2
1. Read the Section on Beading Peyote Stitch Round 1A; and
the Quick Step Guide on pages 12-13.
2. Bead the black cabochon with Size #11 Delica beads
(matching the color to the foundation row).
3. Post a photo of your Round 1A row to the website.
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Step 1: Load one bead on your thread. This bead will sit on
top of the first bead
in the foundation
row (immediately
after the spot where
you thread is
coming out).
Step 2: Needle into
and out of the second bead. This will cause the bead thatwas on your thread to sit on top of the first bead. It might
actually lay next to it on the felt, and that is okay for now.
Step 3: Load one bead on your thread. This bead will sit on
top of the next odd numbered bead.
Step 4: Needle into and
out of the next evennumbered bead. This will
cause the bead that was
last on your thread to sit
on top of the last odd
bead.
This will cause a zipper style look to occur. This indicates
that you are doing the stitch correctly...skipping every odd
bead and needling through every even bead.
Step 5: Repeat Steps 3-4 until you complete the round.
Step 6: Bring your needle into and out of the very first bead
in this roundstepping up to begin the next row.
Quick Step Guide to Beading
Peyote In-the-Round, Row 1-A
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Peyote Stitch, Round 1-B:The Round 1A beads were
anchored to the Foundation Row Beads. The Round 1A beads
will be anchored to the Round 1A Beads.
This round will becreated in a similar
manner to the Round 1A;
but it is much easier
because the first beads
stitched (Odd Numbered
Beads) are easily
distinguishable.
Load a bead on your thread, it will sit on top of the #2
Foundation Bead; so needle through the next Round 1A bead
to have it line up.
Load a bead on your thread, it will sit on top of the next
Foundation Bead; so needle through the next Round 1A bead
to have it line up. Repeat to the end of the row, and then Step
Up your thread by needling through the first bead. Pull the
thread to tighten the row.
Peyote Stitch, Round 2-A:This will be the last Round for
the Black Cameo. And, if you prefer...you can leave it off
because the beads are already curving to encase the cameo.
I liked this extra row, so I included it.
Load a bead on your thread, it will sit on top of the next Row
1 bead, skip that bead and needle through the next bead.
Repeat until the end of the row. This will create the zipper
effect you had with working Row 1A.
Changing Colors: You can change bead colors at any row in
Peyote. You can change at every row if you like. Your color
choice is a matter of preference. Beads can match the
cabochon color, or not. That is also a design choice.
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Step 1: Load one bead on
your thread. This bead will
sit on top of the second bead
in the foundation row.
Needle through the next
bead on Row 1-A and pull
the thread taut. This
anchors the bead between
the first and third Row 1-A
Step 2: Load one bead on
your thread. This bead
will sit on top of the next
even numbered bead in
the foundation row.
Step 4: Needle into and
out of the next bead in
Row 1-A.
Step 5: Repeat Steps 3-4
until you complete the
round.
Step 6: Bring your needle
into and out of the very first bead in this roundstepping
up to begin the next row.
Quick Step Guide to Beading
Peyote In-the-Round, Rows 1-B and 2-A
You can continue to add more rows of Peyote Stitch by
repeating Row 1A and 1B, or just Row 1A until you have
encased as much of the Cabochon as you like.
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Ending Bead Rows: If the beads are not sitting snug against
the top of the cabochon, then needle through each of the last
row of bead again, and pull the thread snug.
Lastly, work your thread back down the rows of beads byneedling diagonally through one bead on each of the previous
rows until you reach the felt.
Take your needle to the back of the felt, inside the stitching
line. Take a couple of tiny stitches to anchor the thread and
then slide your needle under the felt and back out about 1/2
inch away. Clip your thread and carefully trim your felt. Keep
your scissor blade straight and do not angle under the beads.
You will have about 1/16th of an inch of felt showing around
the cabochon after trimming...this is fine. When you attach
the row of Fringe in the next Lesson...this little smidge of felt
will not show any longer.
Since the size of the beads change from the Size 11
foundation row to a Size 15 last row...the cabochon is now
encased by beads.
The color of beads, the size of beads, and the number of rows
you choose for your Peyote work is a matter of choice. There
is no right or wrong color. The number of rows should be
sufficient to encapsulate the
cabochon; but can go beyond the basic
need to become a real artistic
statement.
Smooth surface cabochon stonescould be beading to the extent that the
majority of the stone is covered with
beading. Some jewelry pieces
especially use this technique of MORE
is better.
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Look closely at these enlarged photos of some dragonfly
beaded Czech glass buttons. They are all the same size and
style. Obviously, the color and beaded fringe style is different.
But, note the Peyote Rounds...they differ too.
The bottom button has the
lease amount of rows, and
the top button has the
largest number of rows.
Also, note that the fringe is
different for all three of the
designs.
Lesson #3 will instruct you
on the application of beaded
fringe to your cabochons.
Remember to post your photos as you complete the Exercises
in Lesson Two. And of course, post any questions to the
website as well.
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Lesson Two, Exercise 3
1. Read the Section on Beading Peyote Stitch Round 1-B & 2-
A; and the Quick Step Guide on page 15.
2. Bead the black cabochon with the appropriate size beads
for Round 1-B & Optional row 2-A.
3. End off your thread on the back of the cabochon and clip
your thread.
4. Trim your felt piece.
5. Post a photo of your Rounds 1-B and Optional Row 2-A on
the black cabochon to the website.
Beading a Two-Sided Jewelry Cabochon:
If you want to bead a cabochon/button for use in a two-sided
jewelry piece.you would not stitch the foundation row to
felt. Instead you would start with a string of beads the exact
size of the cabochon size as the foundation row. Then you
follow the same Peyote steps to decrease one side as you hold
the cabochon steady. It will rock and scoot because it is not
attached to anything. Repeat the same Peyote steps for the
second side with the cabochon held in place by your fingers.This will hold the cabochon in place.
Then a wire loop or jump ring of wire can be placed in the top
bead to create a pendant. Or, you can add other beaded
elements to finish the design.