BBC GoodFood India

120
E T OUT E T W Y Hong Kong on your plate Eat like a Balinese I n d  i a Pro vs Punter Phobidden Fruit Thai food on trial MASTERCLASS Chef Thanabalan’ s step-by-step Hainanese chicken rice p 110 SEPTEMBER 2013  `  10 0 eat in e t out eat away  8  0    +  T  R  I  P  L  E  -  T  E  S  T  E  D  R  E  C  I  P  E  S  Acha l A g g a r w al’s home-style Japanese menu Ultimate veggie stir-fries upd ted Favourite Asian recipes S e a r e d  se same t of u wi th noodle sal ad p  3  8  KIMCHI  MISO SOUP  BÁNH MÌ  PORK BUNS  BAKSO R 

Transcript of BBC GoodFood India

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    T OUT E T W Y

    Hong Kongon your plate

    Eat like aBalinese

    India

    PhobiddenFruit

    Thai foodon trial

    MASTERCLASS

    Chef Thanabalansstep-by-stepHainanesechicken ricep 110

    SEPTEMBER 20

    `1eat ine t outeat aw

    80

    +TRIPLE

    -

    TESTED

    RECIPES

    Achal Aggarwalshome-style

    Japanese menu

    Ultimateveggiestir-fries

    Favourite Asian recipes

    Searedsesametofuwithnoodlesaladp38

    KIMCHIMISO SOUPBNH MPORK BUNSBAKSO

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    Chief Executive Officer Tarun Rai

    Editor Sona Bahadur

    Assistant Editor Amrita Gupta

    Features Editor Vidya Balachander

    Senior Features Writer Priyanka Hosangadi

    Junior Copy Editor Khorshed Deboo

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    4BBC GoodFood SEPTEMBER 2

    Contents

    eat in eat outInspiring, seasonal recipes that

    wor every time

    Restaurants on trial and caf

    with character

    30 7 ME LS FOR 700weeks worth of sumptuous

    meals

    37 LUNCHBOX

    ight and healthy salad

    recipes

    38 READY IN 30Meals ready in a jiffy

    44 ODERN VEGGIE

    Snappy veggie stir-fries

    50 WEEKEND

    Classic Vietnamese faves

    58 WEEKEND

    Chinese meals in a cinch

    66 ENTERTAINING

    Cook up a Japanese feast

    78 RESTAURANT SPY

    Thai restaurants on trial

    88 PRO VS PUNTER

    Phobidden Fruit, Bengalu

    90 OFF THE EATEN

    TRACK

    Punes Thai House

    ALL YOUR FAVOURITEMAGAZINES ARE JUSTA CLICK AWAY!

    Now, subscribing to BBCGood Food India (and allyour other favourites like

    Femina, GoodHomes, LonelyPlanet, Filmfare and others)

    just requires a click of themouse! Log on to mags.timesgroup.com.Simply fill your cart withyour favourite magazinesand pay right from yourdesk. Plus get greatdiscounts and really excitingift offers! Log on now!

    49

    PROvs PUNTERFeel like the average diner

    doesnt always agree with

    professional reviews?

    Become our punter in the

    Pro vs Puntersection andreview a restaurant

    along with a seasoned pro.

    To apply, write to us at

    [email protected].

    MAKEOURCOVERRECIPE

    eared sesame tofuwith noodle saladServes 230 m nutesEASY

    firm tofu 400g (try Mori-Nu

    available at gourmet stores)

    sesame seeds1 tbspred chilli 1, deseeded and choppedsoy sauce2 tbsp (try Kikkomanavailable at gourmet stores)

    caster sugar2 tbsp (try Tate & Lyleavailable at gourmet stores)

    rice wine vinegar2 tbsp (try

    Clearspring available at gourmet

    stores)

    noodles 200gsesame oil 1 tbsp (try Lee Kum Kee

    available at gourmet stores)

    spr ng on ons 4, finely chopped

    Wrap the tofu in heavy layers of

    kitchen paper, then press gently to

    emove as much excess water

    as possible. Repeat a couple of

    times. Slice the tofu halfway,

    orizontally into 2 at pieces.

    Sprinkle with the sesame seeds.

    Mix the chilli with soy sauce,

    sugar, vinegar and 1 tbsp of water.

    Cook the noodles in salted boiling

    water until al dente and drain.

    Heat a frying pan with the

    sesame oil until very hot. Sear the

    tofu for about 2 minutes on each

    side or until golden and crisp.Put the noodles on two plates,

    op with the tofu and pour the

    dressing over both. Finish with

    chopped spring onions.

    PER SERVING 427 kcals,

    protein 20.5g, carbs 52.5g, fat

    16.5g, sat fat 2.5g, fibre 2.2g,

    salt 4.16g

    84

    MAGZTERCOPY

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    BBC GoodFooSEPTEMBER 2013

    6

    September 2013

    eat awayFoodie holiday ideas and

    recipes from around the world

    94 EAT LIKE A LOCAL:

    BALI

    A menu of dishes from the

    Indonesian province

    99 BUDGET AND

    BLOWOUT: MADRID

    Save and splurge in theSpanish capital

    100 CITY ON THE PLATE:

    HONG KONG

    An insiders guide to the New

    York of the East

    105 BATTLE OVER

    LAKSA

    Karen Anand on Singapores

    laksa wars

    109 COOK LIKE A PRO

    Cast iron hot plate

    110 MASTERCLASS

    Step-by-step Hainanese

    chicken rice

    114 DO IT YOURSELFMake your own Asian

    dipping sauces

    115 WINE GUIDE

    Pair wines with Oriental food

    118 SHOWSTOPPER

    Master the perfect steamed

    pork buns

    masterclass

    THE BBC GOOD FOOD LEGACYBBC Good Food is the UKs largest selling food magazine with

    a readership of over 1.1 million.

    bbcgoodfood.com is the UKs most popular recipe siteattracting 3.7 million unique users per month.

    The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over70,000 downloads till date.

    first bite

    16 ON TEST Thai red curry pastes

    17 BARGAIN HUNTER

    Best-value foodie events,

    meals and deals

    18 NEED TO KNOW

    Bamboo shoot

    20 FOOD ISSUE

    BBC Good Foodinvestigates

    rice

    24 THE HEALTHY

    INGREDIENT

    Sweet potato

    26 NIGHT OUT

    Ambrosial lychee cocktails

    28 WHATS ON

    The months best food TV

    25 SUBSCRIBE toGood Food India

    JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH

    Out & about

    Bengaluru

    6 OVER TO YOU

    Reader recipes, comments

    and letters

    11 FIRST BITE

    Kimchi is the pickle du jour

    13 NEWS, TRENDS AND

    SHOPPING

    New restaurants, trends we

    like and more

    Minced soy pork with rice nood

    101

    New Delhi

    Mumbai

    Sin

    Chennai

    Madrid

    Jammu

    China

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    6BBC GoodFood SEPTEMBER 2

    Over to youFor top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you,our readers, to keep us in the know

    We love hearing from you. Email us your feedback,

    your favourite recipes and your comments at

    [email protected]. Lets be in touch!

    Write to us!

    Good Food reader Rajesh Dhar shares h

    favourite eateries in Jammu

    BREAKFASTLocated in Gandhi Naga

    Pahalwan Di Hatti(+91 191 243 3120) is a

    nondescript joint thatis a local favourite. Try the chanabhaturaand wash it down with

    a glass of lassi. The Raj Kachori

    is a popular snack here. Make

    sure to carry home some kalari

    dense locally produced cheesemade from cows milk fried in itsown fat and eaten with salt or masala.Meal for two`350.

    LUNCH Head to Ganapati Food Junction (+91 191

    243 2569) in Gandhi Nagar for a wholesome thali. Ask for

    the Bhaderwahi Rajma, accompanied by fresh, seasonal

    vegetables and homemade pickles. Meal for two `600.

    DINNER Fortune Inn Riviera(+0191 256 1415) at

    Gulab Singh Marg is renowned for its Zafrani Subz Shorba

    prepared using saffron sourced from the adjacent valley.

    Sample the hearty Gucchi Biryani for `275 and Nadroo

    Yakhni (lotus stem cooked in a yoghurt gravy) for`250.

    Try the Dhooni Khatti Sabzi, an authentic dish of the Dogrcommunity priced at`250. Meal for two`1,050.

    FOOD NATIONJammu

    HOW YOU PIMPED IT

    I used most of the original bnh m

    ingredients but left out the tofu and

    cucumber. I preferred to steam the fish

    lightly before preparing the patties. I also

    chose to shallow-fry the patties. For the

    dipping sauce, I added finely chopped gre

    chillies and red chilli powder for extra spice, and less sugar.

    Amrita Mukherjeeis a Mumbai-based corporate

    communications professional who is always keen to

    experiment with healthy substitutes in her cooking.

    Errata:In the August issue of BBC Good Food India, in Fatima D

    Silva Gracias home-style Goan Christian menu, the dish Ambto

    was misspelled as Ambotik. In the same feature, the Caldo Verd

    recipe also incorrectly listed Goan sausage as an ingredient, in-

    stead of chourico, or Portuguese sausage. In addition, the recip

    for Kingfish Balchao mentioned kismooras a substitute for

    galmo, however, the correct replacement is dry prawn powder.

    The errors are regretted.

    Bnh mi ch cServes 640 minutes + refrigerating

    EASY

    rawas,snapperorany white fish600g,

    de-skinned, deboned and cut into chunks

    garlic cloves2, chopped

    fish sauce1 tbsp (try Ayam available at

    gourmet stores)

    sugar1/2 tsp

    salt1/3 tspblack pepper1/2 tsp, freshly ground

    spring onion bulbs3, thinly sliced

    oil 400ml + 1 tsp extra for greasing

    baguettes6 small (available at speciality

    bakeries)

    mayonnaise3 tbsp

    iceberglettuce1, leaves separated

    cucumber1, sliced

    tofu120g, sliced into 2cm chunks

    (optional)

    coriandera handful

    redchilli1, sliced

    soy sauce1 1/2 tbsp (try Kikkoman

    available at gourmet stores)

    CLASSIC DIPPING SAUCE

    fish sauce 3 tbsp (try Ayam available at

    gourmet stores)

    lime juice 100ml

    rice wine vinegar 1 tsp (try Blue Dragon

    available at gourmet stores)

    sugar 1/2 cup

    garlic cloves 2, finely chopped

    red chilli 1, finely chopped

    To make the dipping sauce, combine

    the fish sauce, lime juice, rice wine

    vinegar and sugar in a small bowl.

    Stir until the sugar has completely

    dissolved. Add the garlic and chilli and

    keep aside.

    Mince the fish and garlic in a foodprocessor or chop very finely with a

    cleaver. Add the fish sauce, sugar, salt,

    pepper and spring onions and mix.

    Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

    Using lightly oiled fingers, form the

    fish mixture into 12 patties. Heat the oil

    in a deep frying pan and deep-fry the

    patties for 4-5 minutes or until they are

    golden and cooked through. Drain well

    on paper napkins.

    Preheat the oven to 180C. Heat the

    baguettes for 1 minute, then cut into

    half, lengthways, and remove some of

    the soft centre. Spread the mayonnaise

    and top with lettuce leaves, cucumber,

    tofu (if using), fish patties, coriander

    and chilli. Drizzle with soy sauce and

    serve with the dipping sauce.

    PER SERVING 737.5 kcals, protein

    36.83g, carbs 75.72g, fat 31.38g, sat fat

    2.33g, fibre 1.51g, salt 1.2g

    GOODFOODSTAR

    RECIPE

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    BBC GoodFooSEPTEMBER 2013

    READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH

    Which Asian

    ish do youlove to make

    at home?

    55.5% 18.5%Fried rice Tha urr Hot and sour soupINSIDERS

    POLL

    Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook

    at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow

    us on Twi er a wi er.com goodfoodmagin.

    The winner of the letter of the month for this

    issue winsaspecialfestivehamper worth 5,000fromFoodhall.Thehamper isfilled with tempting

    goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virginolive oil, pennerigate, basilcrackers, chocolatefondue, Lemnos jalapeo cream cheeseand Jamie Oliverschilli salt .To write n tothemagazine, email usat [email protected] and

    nclude your

    address and

    elephonenumber.

    DrEr,

    I rtBBCGFooooly byd w gfeff u cpi fr ngce

    tr.Iio z i Iculy lru

    su. Iff nviwI

    sng lng.Tgzn hgr

    vrysu.

    Nvrhv Ipe irc r

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    errmly yng.I lv vr

    l gznn hkr

    cnryjrn. T, !

    M M, Kk

    LETTEROF THE

    MONTH

    The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gifthamper worth 2,000 rom Dalm a Cont nental Pvt Ltd (DCPL),a leading company of premium wellness foods. The hamper

    contains an array of products from DCPLs Leonardo

    brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive pomace oil, whole

    wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium pickle in olive oil,

    pimento stuffed olives, black sliced olives and two recipe

    booklets.

    Good oodreaderAarthi Satheesh

    shares her favourite

    rec pe.

    Apple loaf cakeMakes 10 slices 1 hour 10 minutes +

    cooling EASY

    flour180g + extra or dust ngbutter100g, melted

    1, beaten

    ugar200gvanilla essence1 tsp

    yoghurt80mlbaking soda 1/2 tspc nnamon powder 1 tsp

    baking powder1/2 tspapples1 1/2 cups, peeled and gratedPreheat the oven to 170C. Grease a

    loaf tin and dust well with flour.

    Place the melted butter in a bowl. Add

    the egg, sugar and vanilla essence and

    mix well. Add the yoghurt and stir. Now

    sift in the flour, baking soda, cinnamon

    powder and baking powder and mix

    until combined. Add in grated apple

    and fold to mix.

    Pour the mixture into the tin and

    bake for 50 minutes. A toothpick

    nserted should come out clean.

    Let the cake cool in the tin for

    30 minutes. Invert onto a plate, slice

    and serve.

    Suushi

    over to yoreaders writ

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    8BBC GoodFood SEPTEMBER 2

    In t is issueACHAL AGGARWALAchal Aggarwal is a Master Chef specialising in Japanese

    cuisine at T.Ks Oriental Grill in the Hyatt Regency, Delhi. He

    holds a degree in hotel management from the Institute of

    Hotel Management, Catering Technology and Applied Nutrition

    in Meerut, and earned his stripes working at The Trident in

    Gurgaon and Wasabi by Morimoto in Delhi. Aggarwal was the

    executive sous chef at Megu in the Leela Palace, Delhi, and

    won accolades for his picture-perfect plates. He shows you

    how to rustle up a simple, home-style Japanese meal for family

    and friends in Entertaining on p 66.

    HARRY CHENGrry Cheng is a Singapore-based entrepreneur and freelanced writer. He is the force behind business ventures suchLa Ditta Been There Done That and Cool Japan Festivalof which promote Japanese culture. Cheng is also theprietor of Maidoindia and Sushi and More in Mumbai, anderestaurant Umaide in central Tokyo. He takes you on a tourof the Balinese foodscape in Eat Like a Local on p 94.

    THANABALANChef Thanabalan, a visiting chef at JW Marriott Mumbai,

    oined the Singapore Marriott Hotel as sous chef in 2009.

    He brings with him over 21 years of experience and was

    instrumental in devising the menu for the pre-opening of

    he St Regis Hotel and Intercontinental Hotel in Singapore.

    Thanabalan guides you step-by-step how to make Hainanes

    chicken rice with green chilli sauce, in Masterclass on p 110.

    NEETI MEHRANeeti Mehra is a Mumbai-based writ

    and photographer. She considers

    writing her first love and gastronom

    a close second. Besides BBCGood

    Food India, her work has been featur

    inLonely Planet, Grazia, The Asian

    Age, HindustanTimesand TheHindu

    among other publications. When she

    isnt eating or writing, Mehra dabble

    in designing quirky stationery. In this

    issue, she offers shoestring as well

    as posh eating options in Madrid in

    Budget and Blowout on p 99.

    NANDITA IYERNandita Iyer is a Bengaluru-based

    food writer and columnist. A qualified

    doctor, she has a passion for cooking

    with fresh, seasonal ingredients. yers

    interestin preserving the traditional

    flavours of her Tamil Brahmin heritage

    is evident in her blog, Saffron Trail

    (saffrontrail.blogspot.in). Recently, shes

    begun growing most of the produce

    her family eats in their organic terrace

    garden. She explores why rice is at the

    centre of a nutritional debate in Good

    Food Investigates on p 20.

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    first bite

    WevealwayslovedthiscrunchyKoreanrelishwithapassion.Nowitsofficiallybeinghailedasthesexiestpickleof2013!

    firstbitenews,trends,shopping

    PICKLEDPUCKERKimchiistoKoreanswhatsauerkrautistoGermans.Madewithpickledvegetables, andattimes,seafood,itisastaplesidein

    everyKoreanme al.Itis traditionallyseasoned,brinedand fermentedforafewdays.Asmidgenofkimchiaddsaburstofcolourtosoups,impartsa fierybite todumplings

    andricepaper rolls,andmakesforarobustfillinginasavourypancake.Itcan veryhappilybeeatenonits own,straightfromthebowl.We lovehowdelightfulkimchiisyoucanusevirtually

    anyvegetabletomakeit.Turnthepagetomaste rdifferentve rsionsofkimchi.

    Kimchi hour

    RecipesGUNG-THE PALACE,NEWDELHIPhotographsJOY MANAVATH

    Radishkimchi

    Mixedcabbagekimchi

    Waterkimchi

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    traditionlJaptradiinalJapJ n e lnesemeala n se lmeockwi fromtclockwisefr toc p:: Shogayakho ki(recipe(recirecipercnnp9991);N i n oimono (recipeon(recipeon ppp91))));; MissoMisooupup peon(recipeon p877 ;;; seawe ,cs w ee , ced,crroted,crrot,ced,carrotnde amesaladndedamames ldd; stick ricei c r icstickyricericek r

    imsumeateriesandfine-diningrestaurantsfindequalfavourinyper-modernHongKong,emergingasone ofthegourmetcapitalsoftheworld

    WordsKARENANAND

    CityontheplateHong KongEATDRINKSTAYSHOP

    omostofus, HongKong

    isabustlingbusiness

    metropoliswevisitto

    shopandtoeat.Few

    peoplecaretoscratchthesurface

    ofthisportcity,whichhasachieved

    economicsuccessontheworldstage

    despitebeingoccupiedbyasuccession

    ofcountries.HongKongmaymean

    fragrantharbourbutyouwouldbe

    hard-pressedtofindanyromanticism

    here,exceptforlittleglimpseson

    occasionsliketheChineselantern

    festival,whichmarksthelastdayofthe

    lunarNewYear.Usuallycelebratedin

    earlyFebruary,thisisatrulydelightful

    time,whenrestaurantsandroadsarelit

    upwithlanternsofallshapesandsizes.

    Theword ongalsoreferstothe

    citysmajortradinghouses,which

    prosperedfromtheirtradewithChina.

    Fromthelate19thCenturyrightup

    totheSecondWorldWar,HongKong

    livedintheshadowofShanghai,which

    wasemergingasAsiasfinancialcapital.

    Buttheopendoorinternationaltrade

    policyofDengXiaoping,whotook

    controlofChinaafterMaoZedongs

    deathin1976,revivedHongKongs

    roleasthegatewaytothemainland

    anditboomed.Theboomwasalso

    motivatedbythedrivetorakeinas

    muchprofitaspossiblebeforethe

    citywasreturnedtoChinain1997,

    markingtheendof156yearsofBritish

    colonialrule.

    Theonlyvisibledifferenceafter

    thehandover,apartfromever-taller

    skyscrapersandtheconstantly

    narrowinggapbetweenKowloonand

    HongKongIsland,isthatMandarin

    isnowspokenbyalargernumber

    ofpeople(Cantoneseisthedefault

    tongueofHongKong).Thereisalso

    aclearriftbetweenlocalsandthose

    fromthemainland,whoareconsidered

    abitrougharoundtheedges.Butits

    evidentthatevenchanginghandsfrom

    onecountrytoanotherhasnotcome

    inthewayofHongKongsstaggering

    success.

    EATBranchesofdimsumeatery DinTai

    Fung(dintaifung.com.hk)havesprung

    upallovertheworldnow,butitbegan

    inTaiwanmainlyservingxiaolongbao,

    orsmall,steamedbunswithahot soup

    andporkstuffing.Te NewYor Times

    hasnamedtherestaurantoneofthetop

    10gourmetrestaurantsintheworld.

    Iwouldntgoquitethatfar.However,

    boththeHongKongbranches,atTsim

    ShaTsuiandCausewayBay,were

    recentlyawardedoneMichelinstar.

    WhatIloveaboutthisrestaurantisthe

    Left,fromtop:

    Steameddim

    sumisaclassic

    favouritein

    HongKong;

    Cantonese

    wantonnoodles

    makefora

    heartymeal;

    Marinated

    meatforsale

    atalocalshop.

    Facingpage:

    Avendorsells

    skeweredmeat

    Phot ographcourt esyHONGKONGTOURI SMB

    OARD

    Phot ographcourt esyHONGKONGTOURI SMB

    OARD

    Phot ograp

    ANEESHBHASI N

    ananesec ic enr cewit greenci isauceServes41hour30minutes+

    poachingandresting

    ALITTLEEFFORT

    THECHICKEN

    w 5rgarliccloves50g,crushed

    ginge 5 0g u h drshallots50g,quartered

    wholeturmeric25g,crushed

    galangal 25g

    lemongrass 35g

    pandanleaf1

    chicken2wholewithskinon,800g

    each

    THERICE

    oil2tbsp

    chickenfat50-100g,takenfromthe

    wholechicken

    garliccloves50g,crushed

    ginge 50g,crushedr

    shallots50g,quartered

    lemongrass 40g

    galangal 25g

    kaffirlimeleaves25g

    chives25g

    butter75grpandanleaf1

    Thairice2kg

    THEGREENCHILLISAUCE

    garliccloves10g

    gng 10grshallots10g,quartered

    greenchillies30glarge,chopped

    sesameoil 35ml(tryBlueDragon

    availableatgourmetstores)

    lemonjuice1tbsp

    sugarapinch

    CHEF THANABALANSMasterclassChefThanabalan,SousChef,SingaporeMarriottHotel,showsyouhow tomaketheountrysfamednationaldishHainanesechickenrice

    ecipeCHEFTHANABALANPhotographsRITAMBANERJEEE

    EXCLUSIVE

    STEP-BY-S

    TEP

    RECIPE

    Get to know usOur five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for.Heres what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India:

    First BiteOur opening section is the per ect appetiser or the pages that ollow.First Bite brings you the months freshest food buzz new launches,

    events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and

    ore. We spotlight local produce in season in Need To Know. And our

    Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important food issues to

    bring you insights that really matter to you. P 11

    Eat InThe largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recip

    with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe i

    triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. Weveot everything covered from easy everyday dinners and show-off menu

    or the weekend to modern veggie dishes and kid-friendly recipes burstin

    with flavours. P 29

    firstbitenews,trends,shopping

    MixedcabbagekimchiMakes2kg 30minutes+ marinating

    andfermenting EASY

    Cuttherootof1kgcabbage halfway

    andthensplit theleaveswith your

    hands.Thecabbage canbediced orleft

    asitis.Cut700gcarrotsandradish

    intobatonsand quarter 300gonions .

    Separateeachlayerof theonion.

    Sprinkle 1cupcoarsesaltbetweenthe

    vegetables.Placethemixed vegetables

    inalarge containerandpour enough

    watertocover themfully.Tastethe

    watertomakes ureitis reallysalty,

    otherwiseaddmore salt.Leavethe

    cabbageimmersedint hesaltedwater

    for6hours.Rinsetwice,thenletitdrain

    for2hours.

    Meanwhile,preparethek imchifilling

    bymixing 1/4cupchillisauce, 50g

    shrimpsauceoranchovies, 2tbsp

    sugar, 2tbspchoppedginger, 8tbsp

    choppedgarlicclovesand2pured

    pears together.

    Oncethecabbage iswelldrained,

    mixitwiththekimchifillingand

    sprinkle 4tbspsesameseedsoverit.

    Thekimchican beeatenunfermented,

    immediately,orafter2-3 days.Useit in

    stewsorpancakes.

    RadishkimchiMakes2kg 30minutes+ marinatingandfermenting EASY

    Peelandcut 2kgradishintothin

    strips,approximately0.2-0.5cm wide.

    Mixtheradish with1cupcoarsesalt

    andplacein acontainer.Pourenough

    watertocover itfully.Soak theradish

    inthesalted waterfor30 minutes,

    rinseanddrain well.

    Meanwhile,preparethek imchifilling

    bymixing 1/4cupchillisauce, 50g

    shrimpsauceoranchovies, 2tbsp

    sugar, 2tbspchoppedginger, 8tbsp

    choppedgarlicclovesand2pured

    pears together.

    Oncetheradishiswelldrained,mixit

    withthekimchi fillingandsprink le

    4tbspsesameseedsoverit.Cover

    andrefrigerate,allowingit toferment

    for2-3days.

    SHELF PRESERVATIONGetatasteof Koreasmostlovedfoodexport withtheseperkypickles thatspellinstantwow!

    LeekkimchiMakes2kg 30minutes+ marinating

    andfermenting EASY

    Peelandcut 2kgleeksintothinstr ips,

    approximately0.2-0.5cmwide.M ixthe

    leekswith 1cupcoarsesaltandplace

    inacontainer. Pourenoughwater into

    thecontainerto coverthe leeksfully.Let

    themsoakin thesaltedwater for

    30minutes.Rinse anddrainwell.

    Meanwhile,preparethekimchi filling

    bymixing 1/4cupchillisauce, 50g

    shrimpsauce, 2tbspsugar, 2tbsp

    choppedginger, 8tbspchoppedgarlic

    cloves and2puredpearstogether.

    Oncetheleeks arewelldrained,mix

    themwiththe kimchifillingand sprinkle

    4tbspsesameseeds.Coverand

    refrigerate,allowingit tofermentfor 2-3

    days.

    WaterkimchiMakes 2kg30 minutes +

    marinating and fermentingEASY

    Cuttherootof1kgcabbage halfway

    andthensplit theleaveswith your

    hands.Thecabbage canbediced or

    leftasitis.Sprinkle1cupcoarsesalt

    betweentheleaves.Place thecabbage

    inalarge containerandpour enough

    watertocover itfully.Tastethe waterto

    makesureit isreallysalty,otherwise add

    moresalt.Leave thecabbageimmersed

    inthesaltedwaterfor6hours.Rinse

    twice,thendrainfor2hours.

    Meanwhile,preparethekimchi

    fillingbymixing 50gshrimpsauce

    oranchovies, 2tbspsugar, 2tbsp

    choppedginger, 8tbspchoppedgarlic

    cloves and2puredpearstogether.

    Oncethecabbage iswelldrained, mix

    itwiththekimchifillingandsprinkle

    4tbspsesameseedsoverit.The

    kimchicanbe eatenunfermented,

    immediately,orafter2-3 days.Useitin

    stewsorpancakes.Leekkimchi

    Makethekimchiahead.It stays

    goodtoeatformonthsintherefrigerator.If youprefer

    amildertaste, consumewithin5-6days.Foramore

    intenseflavour,use thekimchiaftera couple

    ofweeks.

    eatawayhongkong

    simpledescriptionofeachdishonthe

    menu,inthreelanguagesincluding

    English,accompaniedbyphotographs.

    Languagecanbequiteachallengein

    localrestaurantsinHongKong,so

    thiscomeshandy.DimTaiFungis

    alsoextremelyhygienic,andyoullfind

    peoplewearingsurgicalmasksmaking

    dimsuminasterile,glass-fronted

    kitchenwhenyouenter.Thedishes

    totryhereincludeth xiao long ao

    stuffedwithsteamedcrabroeandpork,

    stringbeanswithmincedpork,spicy

    vegetableandporkwontons,sauted

    Chinesekaleandthespicedbamboo

    shootandshrimpnoodles.Thevariety

    offriedriceandnoodlesisstunning.

    Theyalsohaveiconstoclearlyindicate

    spicydishes,variousproteingroups

    andvegetarianoptions(althoughthere

    areonlyafewof these).Amealfortwo

    wouldcostapproximately300HK$.

    Bepreparedtoqueueupifyouhave

    notbookedatable.

    TimHoWan(timhowan.com)

    mightlooklikeoneofthemany

    nondescriptdimsumshopsthatdot

    HongKong,butthebustlingcrowd

    outsidegivesitaway.Itisregardedas

    theworldscheapestrestauranttobe

    awardedaMichelinstar.Asinmost

    otherestablishmentshere,youpickthe

    dimsumofyourchoicebylookingat

    thephotosonthemenu.Amusttry

    isthe charsiubau rbarbecuedpork

    buns.Slightlycrustyandtoppedwith

    finepowderedsugarthatmeldswith

    thesweetandsaltymeatinside,this

    charsiub istrulysublime.Amealfor

    twocostsapproximately200HK$.

    Lucys(+85228139055) is

    locatedinthemiddleoflivelyStanley

    Market,atouristhaveninHongKong

    Island.Oncequiteahideaway,itis

    noweveryexpatsMeccaforcaf-style

    comfortfood.Thisbrightlypainted

    Mediterranean-styleeaterywasstarted

    byanEnglishwomancalledLucyin

    themid-90s.Whilealltheirdishesare

    good,thedessertsareoutstanding.In

    particular,thepecanpuddingwith

    toffeecreamsauce(muchlikethe

    famousEnglishstickytoffeepudding),

    isdivine.Thefoodisnotcheapbutthe

    experienceiscertainlyworthit.Two

    masastercassche skills

    Hainanesechickenricewithgreenchillisauce

    eatineatina entertanng

    Eat OutThis section stands out for its uniquely positioned restaurant reviews

    and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach

    to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food Indi

    eader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. In O

    The Eaten Track, we revisit a classic cafe or restaurant and walk you throu

    its heritage P 77

    Eat AwayOur seasoned travel journalists and food experts arm you with insider

    information and recipes from the worlds most exciting food destinations.

    Eat Like A Local brings easy, authentic menus from around the world

    w e Bu get an B owout s ows you ow to get your wa et s wort w en

    travelling. And City on the Plate features the insiders food guide to an Ind

    or nternat ona c ty P 93

    Masterclassearn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lesso

    directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurant-

    perfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through

    illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen

    adgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is

    perfect for wine lovers. P 109

    oesyour averagedineragree withwhatthe restaurantprofessionalsthink? Goo Foo readereethikaSingh andfood writerSumana MukherjeereviewPhobidden Fruitin Bengaluruandcomeawaywith surprisinglys imilarreactions

    vs

    P HBI DD ENF IThequirkilyn amedPhobiddenFruit isa

    charmingdining establishmentthatspecialises

    inVietnamesecuisine. Thecosy,split-level eatery

    servesstarters suchasVietnamese Chicken

    Wings,MekongMomos andanarray ofspring

    rollswrappedin ricepaper.The menufeatures

    inventivepandanand jasmineicedteas, along

    withclassicdelicac iesthatinclude thewholesome

    Pho,BanhMiwithachoiceofmeatorpickled

    vegetables,Saigonnoodles, JungleFishCurr y

    andChe,a sweetconcoctionof coconutmilk,

    mungbeansand jelly.Therestaurant alsooffers

    experimentaldessertssuc hasLemongrass Ice

    CreamandMung BeanPudding.

    hobiddenFruit,965,12thMain,HAL2nd

    Stage,Indiranagar,Bengaluru -560071.

    Tel:+918041255175.Dailynoon3.30pm,

    7pm11pm.Averagespnd w 500P u hy b u n n g No?R gu aw o d Yes?Veggieopti ons?Areasonableselection

    THEP

    SumanaMukherj is

    afoodwriter, restaurant

    criticand columnist.She

    isbestknownforher

    in-depthreportage of

    criticalfood issues.

    T HE E V I

    Largelypleasantand

    non-intrusive,if not

    particularlyinterested.

    Ourserver answers

    ourquestions politely,

    butdoesnotofferany

    suggestionsor enquire

    whenwedidnotfinish

    ourdishes.Ourordersare

    deliveredpromptlyand

    pipinghot noteworthy

    becausethekitc henis

    locatedatthe lowerlevel

    anditisacoldnight.But

    thewaiterwho transports

    platedfoodfrom the

    kitchenmakeseno ugh

    ofarackettobring

    conversationsto ahalt.

    I P S NCasual,laidback,welcoming this

    placeisjust rightfor Bengalurus

    easygoingeating-outcu lture.

    Laidbackcans lipintolazy though:

    weaskforatablefortwoinan

    emptyrestaurant(they donttake

    reservations,so wearriveat

    8.30pmfor dinner),aretold sure

    andthenleft staringintospace, till

    Iaskifweshouldtakethespiral

    staircasetothe upperlevel,only to

    betoldagain, sure.Thelight ing

    maybetoomutedforsomebut

    thesemi-alfresco spacemakes

    themostof Bengalurussuperb

    weather,strategicallyplaced

    pottedplantsensure adegreeof

    privacyandt helow-volumemusic

    encouragesconversation.

    Thisquainteatery iseasyto

    missonthebustling12thMainin

    Indiranagar.Tuckedawayin what

    oncewasa garage,itdoesnt

    boastanauthentic Vietnamese

    ambience.Thedcor ismodest

    andtheseating comfortable.A

    touchofgr eeneryandcandlelight

    (atnight)lendacharmingand

    relaxedfeel.After two-and-a-

    halfyearsof busyexistence,the

    interiorscoulddowithacoatof

    paintandpolish.

    Serviceisabitlackluster

    andthewait between

    coursesislongerthan

    necessary.Thewaiters

    bearacasual attitude

    and(sincewe areseated

    closetothe billingsection)

    wearesubjected tothe

    constantbanter between

    themanagerand herstaff.

    HE E TA AN

    P

    ReethikaSingh isa

    homebakerwithafine

    artsandjour nalism

    degree.Afterastintasa

    graphicdesigner shenow

    runsher ownbusiness

    calledCupcakeree.Her

    otherinterests include

    art,readingand travel.

    PhotographsKUNALCHANDRA

    HE F D

    Itrangesfromgoodtoverygood.Mynever-failpicksaretheVietSpareRibs,

    sweet,stickypork ribsthatbeg theuseof fingers,andSummer Rolls,coldrice-

    paperrollsstuffed withgreensand chickenorpr awn,andserved withasauce

    sodeliciousit makesmewishdou ble-dippingwaskosher.In warmerweather,I

    liketheGreen PapayaSaladorthe steamedCanThoClams.

    Withthewindblowingcoldanddampthough,onemaincourseisano-

    brainer:theBeef Pho,agiantbowl ofbrothwith flatricenoodles andthin

    slicesofbeef (veg,seafoodandc hickenoptionsare alsoavailable).It contains

    warmingnotesof cinnamonandstar anise,butI findmysoup tobeslightly

    under-seasoned,notwithstandingthe accompanyinghoisinand sriracha

    sauces.WealsotrytheJungleFishCurrywheredoesonehavebasaifnot

    ataVietnameserestaurant? anddiscover athin,flavoursome currythats

    aworldawayfrom thecoconutmilk- heavycurriesassociated withtheregion.

    Bothdisplayatemperate useofspices thatsrarein mid-marketrestaurants.

    Withdessertsrarely afocusarea inSoutheastAsian cuisines,restaurants

    showcasingthispart oftheworld seldomscorewith sweetdishes.Weorder

    thePeanutIsland andtheMung BeanPudding.Slathered withcoconutcream

    andwiththe consistencyofglutinous mash,theydefinitely takesomegetting

    usedto.I findmyselfwishing Idorderedthe LemongrassIcedTeainstead.

    HEVERDI

    heonevirtue

    hobiddenFruithas

    masteredovertwo-and-a-

    halfyearsis consistency.

    hatsprobablythe

    ecretofits success

    inthenotor iously

    emandingBengaluru

    restaurantmarket.Its a

    no-fussset-up thatplays

    toitsstrengthsbutit

    helpsifyouknowwhat

    youwant:dont expect

    muchassistancefrom

    thewaitstaff.

    ukherjeesmealfortwo

    includingtwostarters, twomain

    coursesandtwo dessertsis

    1,440includingtaxes.

    D:7.5/10ATMOSPHERE:7.5/1

    ERVIE:7/1

    TOTAL:22/30

    GOAGAIN?

    Absolutely.Itsvaluefor money

    andsomeofthedishescantbe

    eaten.

    Themenuhas severalinterestingchoices withafair numberofvegetarian

    options.Thestarters aredelicious.The crunchandfr eshnessofthe vegetables

    intheSummer Rollsisperfectly complementedbythetangy, hotdipping

    sauce.TheViet SpareRibssmothered inathick, sweetglazeare completely

    moreish.Tenderand succulent,theyare, however,morefatthan meat.

    Sidesofsteamed rice,somesalad andpotatofritters accompanythemains.

    TheVietRed ChickenCurryis delicatelyseasonedandver yflavourful.The

    JungleFishCurry, withitscomplex blendofspices andfieryundertones, is

    equallypleasingto thepalate.Thedesserts,though, aredisappointing.The PeanutIsland,anov erly

    sweetcombinationof bananaandpeanut,is somewhatone-dimensionaland

    lackstexturalcontr ast.TheMung BeanPudding,garnished withsliversof

    strawberry,lycheeandfi nelydicedgreenapple, isbarelysweetened.Both

    dessertshavea gummy,glutinousconsistency

    thatIdonotparticularlycarefor.Todrink,opt

    foraJasmineIcedTeaithasarefreshing

    floralqualitythat livesupto itsname.

    Sngh m w includingtwostarters,two maincourses,

    twobeveragesandtwo desserts

    i 6 0 u nD:7/10

    ATMOSPHERE:6/1ERVICE: /1

    TOTAL:18/30

    GOAGAIN?

    Forthefoodperhaps,butnotin

    ahurry.

    hiscosyrestaurant

    issuitablefor acasual

    mealoutwithfamilyora

    meet-upwithfriends. The

    foodisfresh, uniqueand

    tastyandthe portions

    readequate.Space

    constraintsleavelittle

    roomforpr ivacy.Thebsenceofvalet parking

    isadownerandthe

    interiorscoulddowitha

    littlesprucing up.

    Wanttoreviewa restaurant? ForachancetobecomeGoodFoodsnextpunter,emaila200-wordreviewofanyrestaurantyouvevisited,withtheheadingProvsPunter,tobbcgoodfood@wwm.co.inwithyourcontactdetails.Youcouldbetheluckyone!

    Therestaurant'ssignaturephowithseafood JungleFishCurry

    eatatouute utarestataaua trrra tntr veewsse e s

    VietSpareareRir Rp ar e i iiibiibssRiibssr

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    Tofusteak(silkentofuwithsoywasabi butterandshiitakemushroom)

    soy ws bi butterierves630minutesEASY

    This tofu s eak is theperectveggiealternative.The silken tofuo ers aextura contrastto e firmbiteofimushroomsandthe hitofwasabisoybuterperksup he dish.

    unsalted bu ter41/2t bsp(tryPresident availa leat gourmets tores)silken t fu 360g,cu into steaksoysau 1 tbsp

    was bi paste3 tspshiitake ushrooms3,rehydrated in warmwaterand sliced

    n aheatedpan,melt1 1/2tbspofbutter andcook the tofufor5 minutesoneachside onlow heat untilgoldenrown.Handle it delicat lya ssilkentofutendst obreak easily.

    In another saucepanadd oy sauce,the remainingbutter,1 1/ spof wasabipasteandshiitakeand stirt ill thebutterdissolvesandshiitakeis cooked.Do notoil,ast hesaucewill turnsaty.Placethe sauted tofu on adeepplateandpour sauceover.Arrangemushroomson opoftofu, garnishwithremainingwasabi pasteand servehot.PERSERVING122.5kcals,protein6.4g,carbs6.8g, fat10.25g, satfat5.25g, fibre0.85g, salt3.2g

    REALLYREALLYEASY

    Ifunsaltedbutterisnot available,use9 tbspsoy sauce,6 tbspmirin and

    3 tbspregularbutterfor thesauce

    How to get the bestfrom Good Food India

    THE GOOD FOOD INDIA

    PROMISEWe hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restauran

    reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them

    fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well a

    doing it sustainably. Heres what you can expect from

    and every issue:

    TRIPLE TESTED RECIPESAll our recipes are testedat least three times. For great results, we recommend

    you use standard level measuring spoons, and dont m

    imperial and metric measures.

    EASY RECIPESMost of Good Foods recipes are quic

    and simple to follow and can be made using easily

    available ingredients.

    THE ODD CHALLENGEWeekends are perfect forelaborate meals and entertaining. Weve included a

    smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a

    good challenge.

    GOOD VALUELook out for our recipes that aim to mathe most of your budget 7 meals for 700. We also full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste,

    but if thats not possible we aim to suggest ways of us

    up leftovers.

    SEASONAL EATINGWe love using seasonal ingrediein our recipes because they give the food a distinct

    flavour and add seasonal freshness.

    HEALTHY EATINGWe reckon the 80% sensible, 20%indulgent way of eating is best which is why we suppo

    our recipes with nutritional info. Well also tell you how

    give popular recipes a healthy makeover.

    PROVENANCE MATTERSWhere possible, we usehumanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs

    sustainably sourced fish and unrefined sugar.

    INTERNATIONAL SAVVYSometimes, recipes callfor ingredients that arent available locally and cant be

    brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. It

    your choice whether or not you use them.

    CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATSHole-in-the-waeateries and fine dining restaurants theres room for

    both in Good Foods Eat Out pages.

    LOCAL KNOWLEDGEThe Eat Away section armsyou with insider info and recipes from the worlds mos

    exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground fo

    journalists.

    BIG ISSUESPreaching doesnt come naturally, so wewont tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we kee

    you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food wo

    in our Good Food Investigates feature. We weigh in on

    the nutritional debate about rice on p 20.

    Why you can cook ourrec pes w con ence

    y yAll the recipes in Good Food are tested

    thoroughly, so theyll work the firsttime for you at home. Most of our

    recipes are developed in the Good

    Food test kitchen by our cookery

    team or come from food writers and

    chefs. We aim to make our recipes

    as practical as possible, keeping

    ingredient lists to a minimum and

    avoiding lengthy preparations.

    How we triple testour recipes1 he first time is by the recipe writerho tests the recipe in a domestickitchen.2Next, a member of the cookeryteam makes the recpe n theGood Food India kitchen.3The recipe is then tested at ourphoto shoot. Some recpes aretested a fourth time at home by

    ndividual members of the Good Food

    editorial team were all keen cooks

    and often cant resist trying out a

    recipe we particularly love, as soon as

    weve discovered it.

    Testing our recipes three times ormore may seem over-cautious, butmistakes can be costly, so we think itmakes sense to ensure you get theright result every time.

    FORSKILLEDCOOKS

    REALLYREALLYQUICK

    REALLYREALLYEASY

    Show-off recipes when youancy a challenge.These

    recipes require a little effort.

    Recipes that can be madeunder 20 minutes. Perfector hectic weekdays.

    Those recipes marked withthis stamp are the simplest

    and require very little effort.

    What our symbolsmeanEASY Recipes everyone can make,

    even beginners. These dishes areusually quick, often on the table within

    20 minutes.

    MODERATELY EASY These require

    a bit more skill for example making

    and rolling out pastry.

    A LITTLE EFFORT

    Recipes aimed at experienced cooks

    who cook for pleasure and like a

    challenge.

    CAN BE FROZEN nless otherwise

    stated, freeze for up to three months.

    Defrost thoroughly and heat until

    piping hot.

    VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes.JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.Over to youHave a family recipe to

    share or hink you could

    add o our recipes? Email

    us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.

    co.inand let us know. Were

    always on the look out forew places and food stories

    and would love o hear abou

    great places to eat in your

    ometown.

    LOOK OUT FORTHESE HIGHLIGHTS

    For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 117

    10BBC GoodFood SEPTEMBER 2

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    first bite

    Weve always loved this crunchy Korean relish with a passion. Noits officially being hailed as the sexiest pickle of 20

    first b

    news, trends, shoppin

    PICKLED PUCKERKimchi is to Koreans whatsauerkraut is to Germans. Made

    with pickled vegetables, and at

    times, seafood, it is a staple side

    every Korean meal. It is tradition

    seasoned, brined and fermented

    for a few days. A smidgen of kim

    adds a burst of colour to soups,

    imparts a fiery bite to dumplings

    and rice paper rolls, and makes

    for a robust filling in a savoury

    pancake. It can very happily be

    eaten on its own, straight fromthe bowl. We love how delightful

    kimchi is you can use virtually

    any vegetable to make it. Turn th

    page to master different version

    of kimchi.

    Kimchi hour

    Recipes GUNG - THE PALACE, NEW DELHI Photographs JOY MANAVA

    Radish kimchi

    Mixed cabbage

    kimchi

    Water kimchi

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    first bitenews, trends, shopping

    Mixed cabbage kimchiMakes 2kg30 minutes + marinating

    and fermentingEASY

    Cut the root of 1kg cabbagehalfway

    and then split the leaves with your

    hands. The cabbage can be diced or left

    as it is. Cut 700g carrots and radish

    into batons and quarter 300g onions.

    Separate each layer of the onion.

    Sprinkle 1 cupcoarse saltbetween the

    vegetables. Place the mixed vegetables

    in a large container and pour enough

    water to cover them fully. Taste the

    water to make sure it is really salty,

    otherwise add more salt. Leave the

    cabbage immersed in the salted water

    for 6 hours. Rinse twice, then let it drain

    for 2 hours.

    Meanwhile, prepare the kimchi filling

    by mixing 1/4 cup chilli sauce, 50g

    shrimp sauce or anchovies, 2 tbsp

    sugar, 2 tbsp chopped ginger, 8 tbsp

    chopped garlic clovesand 2 pured

    pearstogether.

    Once the cabbage is well drained,

    mix it with the kimchi filling and

    sprinkle 4 tbsp sesame seedsover it.

    The kimchi can be eaten unfermented,

    immediately, or after 2-3 days. Use it in

    stews or pancakes.

    Radish kimchiMakes 2kg30 minutes + marinating

    and fermentingEASY

    Peel and cut 2kg radishinto thin

    strips, approximately 0.2-0.5cm wide.

    Mix the radish with 1 cup coarse salt

    and place in a container. Pour enough

    water to cover it fully. Soak the radish

    in the salted water for 30 minutes,

    rinse and drain well.

    Meanwhile, prepare the kimchi filling

    by mixing 1/4 cup chilli sauce, 50g

    shrimp sauce or anchovies, 2 tbsp

    sugar, 2 tbsp chopped ginger, 8 tbsp

    chopped garlic clovesand 2 pured

    pears together.

    Once the radish is well drained, mix it

    with the kimchi filling and sprinkle

    4 tbsp sesame seedsover it. Cover

    and refrigerate, allowing it to ferment

    for 2-3 days.

    SHELF PRESERVATIONGet a taste of Koreas most loved food export with these perky pickles that spell instant wow!

    Leek kimchiMakes 2kg30 minutes + marinatin

    and fermentingEASY

    Peel and cut 2kg leeksinto thin str

    approximately 0.2-0.5cm wide. Mix th

    leeks with 1 cup coarse saltand plac

    in a container. Pour enough water into

    the container to cover the leeks fully.

    them soak in the salted water for

    30 minutes. Rinse and drain well.

    Meanwhile, prepare the kimchi fillin

    by mixing 1/4 cup chilli sauce, 50g

    shrimp sauce, 2 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp

    chopped ginger, 8 tbsp chopped gar

    clovesand 2 pured pearstogether.

    Once the leeks are well drained, mi

    them with the kimchi filling and sprin

    4 tbsp sesame seeds. Cover and

    refrigerate, allowing it to ferment for

    days.

    Water kimchiMakes 2kg 30 minutes +

    marinating and fermenting EAS

    Cut the root of 1kg cabbagehalfwaand then split the leaves with your

    hands. The cabbage can be diced or

    left as it is. Sprinkle 1 cupcoarse salt

    between the leaves. Place the cabbag

    in a large container and pour enough

    water to cover it fully. Taste the water

    make sure it is really salty, otherwise

    more salt. Leave the cabbage immers

    in the salted water for 6 hours. Rinse

    twice, then drain for 2 hours.

    Meanwhile, prepare the kimchi

    filling by mixing 50g shrimp sauce

    or anchovies, 2 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp

    chopped ginger, 8 tbsp chopped gar

    clovesand 2 pured pearstogether.

    Once the cabbage is well drained, m

    it with the kimchi filling and sprinkle

    4 tbsp sesame seedsover it. The

    kimchi can be eaten unfermented,

    immediately, or after 2-3 days. Use it i

    stews or pancakes.Leek kimchi

    Make the

    kimchi ahead. It stays

    good to eat for months in

    the refrigerator. If you prefer

    a milder taste, consume

    within 5-6 days. For a more

    intense flavour, use the

    kimchi after a couple

    of weeks.

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    Bulghar wheat saladwithroasted beet spinachandpine nuts Serves 2 35 minutesEASYHeat the oven to 200C. Put 250g quartered, boiled beetroot`50/500g) in an ovenproof dish lined with foil and add 1 chopped garlic clove(`20 250g), 2 thyme sprigs( 5/bunch), 2 tbsp Colavita Balsamic Vinegar 65 125ml) and 1 tbsp oil. Season, then scrunch up the foil to makea parcel. Cook for 20 minutes, and then cool. Meanwhile add boiling water to 75g Tipiak Bulgar Wheat(`370/500g) and cover with cling-film. Coohen toss with100g spinach (`20/250g). Add the beetroot, keeping the cooking juices, and scatter with1 tbsp toasted pine nuts(`420/70g). Whhe juices with1 tbsp lemon juice(`3/lemon) and 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar and drizzle over the salad.

    THE CASE FOR

    Whats a bit of a pong weighed

    against a whole lot of character?

    Im willing to forgive dried fish

    its (okay, considerable) stinkfor all the crackly, crunchy fun

    it adds to my plate. Theresnothinglike ik nilis (crisp-dried

    anchovies) to

    jazz upnasiemak, the

    Malaysian

    rice dish.

    Closer home,

    salty dried bombil

    ch tni s a s mple, homelypleasure. Sure, the flavour is bold

    and can be a tad over the top,

    but who said you need a heaped

    serving of it? A little sprinkling of

    dried fish goes a long way be it

    over stir-fries, Asian-style salads,

    or even on its own. Id say this is

    a taste well worth acquiring.

    - AMRITA GUPTA

    THE JURYS OUTDried fish

    How to use up

    SUPERMARKET SWEEPPop into Foodhall for a quick weeknight meal

    THE CASE AGAINST

    There are those who have the

    olfactory might to overlook the

    stench of drying bombland

    sing paeans to the slender fish.

    I am notone of them. To medried fish is one taste I will

    probably neveracquire. Eating

    it is like

    road-rolling

    your palate

    there is no

    option but tosurrender to its

    overpowering avour.

    Fresh fish has a subtlety of

    aroma and taste thats lacking

    in its dry form add dried fish

    to a dish and what you get is a

    brash sucker punch of fishiness.

    You could liken it to a classroom

    bully, forcing every other flavour

    on a plate to submit to its will.

    Thanks, but Ill pass.

    - VIDYA BALACHANDER

    Sticky salmon with greensHeat the oven to 200C. Place

    4 skinless salmon filletson a

    baking tray. Mix together 2 tbspoyster sauce, 3 tbsp teriyaki sauceand 1 tbsp honey, then brushover the fish.Roast for 8-10 minutes then set aside. Heat 1 tbspoilin a wok, then f1 tbsp grated ginger, 1 sliced garlic cloveand1 sliced red chilli. Stir350g blanched broccoli, then add 250g each of chopped bok choy

    and snow peas and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the rest of the sauce, h

    through and serve with the fish.

    Teriyaki prawn and noodle broth our1l vegetable stock nto a pand simmer. Stir in 1 tsp grated ginger, 2 tbsp teriyaki sauceand1/2 tsp five-spice powder. Add 85g noodlesand cook for 3-4 minut

    Tip in 00g mixed stir-fried vegetablesand 85g slicedmushrooms, cook for a couple of minutes, then add 100gshredded cooked chickenand simmer. Season, and sprink1 tsp sesame seeds.Stir-fried teriyaki steak with cabbageSlice sirloinsteak nto th n str ps. Heat2 tbspoilin a wok. Add the

    steak and 1 sliced onion. Fry until brown. Add 2 tbsp

    teriyaki sauceand a splash of water. Tip onto a plate. Th

    add1/2 shredded cabbageand stir-fry. Season with 1 tby u . Add the steak back to the pan and toss toget

    Try Kikkoman available at gourmet stores 110or 250ml.

    PB ARD LTERIYAKISAUCE

    + =

    TOTALCOST`206

    PhotographPITTA/123RF

    + +

    need to knownews, trends, shoppin

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    14BBC GoodFood SEPTEMBER 2

    need to know

    news, trends, shopping

    DEBONAIRS PIZZA,MUMBASouth Africas largest pizza chain makes

    its foray into the city, aiming to create a

    buzz around its signature Double Stack and

    Triple Decker pizzas two or three crusty

    bases sandwiched with cream cheese and

    an assortment of fillings. The eatery holds

    promise for vegetarians but the flavours are

    a tad Indianised, with makhanisauce, kheem

    and paneer making an appearance on the

    menu. The Super Pizza with four different n

    inch square pizzas is a good choice for a gro

    Shubham Co-Op Housing Society,

    Juhu-Versova Link Road, Mumbai.

    Tel: + 91 22 6943 1111

    PING PONG,MUMBAIAfter much dilly-dallying, Londons favourite

    dim sum eatery finally makes its debut in

    Mumbai, giving the neighborhoods corporate

    crowd an excuse to meet over extended

    lunches and free Wi-Fi. Dim sum clearly

    dominates the menu there are baskets of

    steamed har gau, spinach and mushroom

    dumplings and honey barbecued pork buns.

    Other eats include honey-roasted chicken puffs

    and Vietnamese rice paper rolls along with

    an assortment of teas, cocktails, and desserts

    such as Chinese ginger cake.

    First International Financial Centre, BKC,

    Mumbai. Tel: + 91 22 6741 3333

    ELMAS BRASSERIE,NEW DELHIElmas Brasserie is a new venture by the folks

    behind Elmas Bakery, Cakes and Tea Room in

    Hauz Khas Village. It has all the elements of a

    charming caf a chalkboard menu, wooden

    flooring, pastel walls and vintage crockery. Its

    perfect for a lazy afternoon with friends over

    several cups of tea and wedges of flaky mille-

    feuille. The menu strikes a balance between

    light bites and comfort food. Some of the

    heartier dishes include roasted chicken stuffed

    with cheese, lamb chops and grilled prawns.

    73, Meharchand Market, Lodhi Road,

    New Delhi. Tel: + 91 11 4905 0881

    TABLE HOPPING Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants on the block

    CHIC

    CHARMIN

    G

    CHEERY

    RAISE ATOAST! SPICEROUTE

    With a profusion of gourmet start-ups sprouting in cyberspace, an

    electronic liquor store seemed like a logical next step for entrepreneurs

    Dhruv Khandelwal and Amit Goel. Their venture, Letsbuydrink.com, lets

    you order alcohol online and have it delivered to your doorstep (theres

    a minimum spend of`1,000, anddelivery is within two hours if youorder before 9 pm . The offeringsare expansive theres bourbonwhiskey, single malts, wines fromacross the globe, cognac, pre-mixdrinks and vermouth. You can alsoorder organic coffee sourced fromtheindianbean.com. While this isinarguably a sweet deal, we wish

    the website also had dessert

    wines and bar accessories up for

    grabs. The service is currently in

    Delhi and across Maharashtra,

    and will soon be in Bengaluru.

    Call +91 9015555000

    or follow them on Twitter:

    @LetsBuyDrink

    letsbuydrink.com The Online Club ASA Spices at Foodhall

    Julian Amerys penchant for collecting spices, herbs and dried flowers

    on his trips across India, Africa and Europe, led him to establish ASA

    (pronounced asha) in 2010 in Copenhagen. ASAs spice stations

    in Foodhall outlets offer fair-trade organic spices such as Sichuan

    peppercorns, pink pepper from the Camargue, and blue cornflowers

    from Scandinavia. ASA also offers custom-made spice blends such as

    Egyptian dukkahand Syrian zataar(` 200 to` 4,800 per kg).

    ASA Spices are ground-on-order and available at Foodhall outlets

    in Mumbai, Bengaluru and Delhi. Visit asatrading.dk for details.

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    BBC GoodFoodSEPTEMBER 2013

    Whats new insupermarkets this month?

    FRESH ONTHE SHELVES

    HOME CHEF SPRING ROLL

    SAUCE285 or 300mlSpring rolls are the perfect party snack

    but wed hesitate to pair them with this

    sauce. It is almost one-dimensional in

    taste, with an overriding sweetness that

    obscures all other avours. Flecked with

    strands of grated carrot, the sauce also

    has an unpleasant, gummy consistency

    because of the xanthan gum added to thicken it. Give

    his one a miss and serve those rolls with sweet chilli or

    sriracha sauce instead.

    CLEARSPRING JAPANESE ARAME

    935 or 50g

    The Japanese have always known about the nutritive

    properties of edible seaweed.

    Now, you too can easily

    reap the benefits of iodine-

    and mineral-rich arame, a

    type of kelp. Available in its

    dehydrated form arame isgreenish-black in colour and

    has no discernible flavour.

    Once you soak it in water

    though, the wispy strands of

    seaweed swell to almost doubleheir size. They possess a mild

    ocean flavour that isnt too overwhelming even if youre

    trying seaweed for the first time. Sprinkle them over a

    bowl of miso soup or add them to a salad but sparingly,

    as the steep price is definitely a factor to consider.

    NONGSHIM SHRIMP FLAVOREDCRACKERS 9 for 7 g

    Few snacks can match

    he addictive lure of

    shrimp crackers. When you

    open this packet, a strong,reassuring shrimp aromawafts out. But the crackersare disappointingly under-seasoned and have only thefaintest trace of prawn flavour.The plus point is they areperfectly crisp and not greasydespite being deep-fried.

    Trends we l keK TTL LOVThinking of hosting a tea party at home? Get brewingwith these natty beauties

    1.Blue conical teapot 2,800, ava lable at Good Earth; 2.Primula cast ironteapot 4 298 available at zansaarcom; 3. Taj kettle 3 500 available atmypitara.com; 4. Ceramic teapot 930, avalable at Fab nd a;5.Cast iron teapot 2,800, ava lable at Good Earth; 6.Blue cone teapot

    1,550, ava lable at aypore.com

    1

    3 4

    65

    need to know

    news, trends, shoppin

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    16BBC GoodFood SEPTEMBER 2

    nee to nowpantry basics

    A good curry paste is the foundation of a Thai curry. We test seven leading brands of red curry pastein the market to find the one that comes closest to the freshly pounded homemade versionWords KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs SHREYA GUPTA

    ON TESTRed Thai curry paste

    REAL THAI` 49/50g

    We imagine that hungry-for-curry

    Thai nationals must be going

    through packets of these pastes in a

    month. Packing a mean punch with

    generous heaps of dried red chillies

    and garlic, the Real Thai paste is

    surprisingly affordable and the

    closest you can get to a homemade

    one. Had they added shrimp paste

    to the mix and a more assertive

    note of lemongrass and galangal,

    the curry would have fared even

    better. Do not skimp on any of thetrimmings like sweet basil, kaffir

    lime leaves and red chillies; they

    elevate the curry to a delicious high.

    NAMJAI` 47/50gThe first thing that strikes us

    about this Bangkok import is the

    aroma when we sizzle the paste

    in hot oil. The addition of shrimp

    paste increases the pungency

    and the lemongrass asserts itself

    after a quick sear in the pan. This

    brand is also one of two the other

    being Desiam to recommend frying

    the meat and veggies before pouring in the coconut milk. This

    small detail results in a curry that is pleasantly spicy, has all

    the key flavourings they even manage the bitter note without

    being overpowering and doesnt fail to impress.

    PANTAI` 110/114gPantais paste imparts heat and

    pungency but none of the other

    stellar avour combinations we

    expect from a Thai curry. With

    not even a trace of lemongrass

    or galangal, we are compelled

    to rescue our curry with extra

    lashings of fish sauce, sugar, lime

    leaves and basil. Mercifully, this

    results in a luscious curry that is

    devoured with bowlfuls of rice.

    The bright orange-red paste in its

    raw form throws us off. With no

    cooking instructions on the packe

    we have to figure our way throug

    the portionin

    Much like

    the others,

    this product

    eliminates

    the shrimp

    paste,

    possibly in

    an attempt

    to pander touninitiated

    aste buds.

    BLUE DRAGON` 149/220g

    UK-based Blue Dragon comes surprisingly

    close to its Thai counterparts in terms

    of achieving a balance of flavour. The

    chillies and the acidic elements are

    more pronounced and the curry even

    possesses a mildly bitter aftertaste, which

    is normally achieved with the addition

    of pea aubergines. With an extra dose

    of palm sugar, the fieriness can easilybe toned down. The curry is suitable for vegetarians and the

    elimination of fish sauce doesnt drastically alter its taste. It is

    lighter in colour than the other curries.

    CHINGS` 140/200g

    Theres no doubt that Chings Secret

    has put a lot of thought into the detailed

    instructions and impressive packaging. But

    had they spent more time on the actual

    paste, our curry could have been a lot

    more appetising. Instead were

    left with a slightly bitter curry

    with an overwhelming chilli

    ite. The raw paste resembles

    Schezwan sauce with a heavy

    coating of oil. This is also the

    only brand to recommend

    adding the curry paste after

    he coconut milk.

    DESIAM` 165/70g

    Given their claims of being spicy, we expect

    this curry to be hot enough to have us

    yearning for a soothing coconut dessert.

    Instead, it has us reaching out for sugar

    o counteract its puckering acidity. The

    shrimp paste, though

    barely identifiable, does

    add some complexity to

    he avour. Had it not

    been so overly pungent,

    we would use the paste

    to avour other Thai

    avourites such as fish

    cakes and barbecued meat.

    BLUE ELEPHANT`210/70g

    This paste is redolent with spices but has a

    eriness that instantly hits the throat. When

    fried, the fragrant curry paste releases its

    bold lemongrass and chilli notes immediately

    The resulting curry is full-bodied, sour and

    reminds us faintly of

    massaman curry from

    southern Thailand. Eve

    though the packaging

    doesnt advertise its

    use, the curry has an

    overpowering avour o

    turmeric that everyone

    may not appreciate.

    OVES

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    BBC GoodFood

    need to know

    news, trends, shoppin

    SEPTEMBER 2013

    Mexican food fans, rejoice.

    Rodeo, one of the citys firs

    Mexican restaurants, has

    introduced value-for-mone

    weekday lunches. The lunc

    combo includes a soup, a

    salad and a choice of six

    dishes as part of the main

    course. A bowl of chicken o

    mushroom soup is served w

    corn tort a c ps an p coe ga o while the salads are

    dressed with salsa, sour cre

    or a apeo mayonna se.

    Some of the mains on offer

    include mushroom crpes,

    grilled marinated chicken w

    Serrano mayonnaise, pan-

    grilled jumbo prawns stuffed with olives, and platters of nachos drenched

    cheese. Tel: +91 11 2371 3780; Monday to Friday, noon 3.30 pm.

    ood Foo tracks down this months top foodie meals and dealsWords KHORSHED DEBOO

    158-A-HEAD DINNERPARTY FOR 4!

    99 WEEKDAY MEXICAN

    LUNCH BUFFET AT RODEO,NEW DELHI

    All prices

    PER HEAD

    excluding taxes

    and travel

    Total`629

    ( er head)

    Lemon, broccoli andsesame roast chicken (p 62) ` 288

    Aubergine and black bean stir-fry (p 46) 179Anmi su (p 75) 162

    If youve been longing to visit Mumbais famed Ziya at The Oberoi, we

    suggest you make the most of this brunch deal. Helmed by ChefVineetBhatia, the restaurant that serves contemporary Indian fare offers a

    sumptuous brunch spread on Sundays. The dining experience allows you to

    feast on kebabs, prawn curry, lamb chops, mushroom khichdi and r n anddesserts such as kheerice cream and coconut and rice sundialong withunlimited rounds of sparkling wine or beer. The sweeping view of the ocean

    is a bonus.Tel: +91 22 6632 6210; Sundays, 12.30 pm 3 pm.

    The seventh edition of Citibank

    Restaurant Week India will

    have over 70 participating

    restaurants across Bengaluru,

    Delhi and Mumbai. The event

    gives culinary enthusiasts

    the chance to enjoy a three-

    course prix fixe meal (with

    a choice of vegetarian or

    non-vegetarian) at a fraction

    o t e regu ar a carte rates.

    art c pat ng restaurants nc u eengalurus Caperberry and

    Szechwan Court (pictured);

    Delhis Rara Avis, Sakura

    and Varq; and Mumbais

    Vetro, Hakkasan and Ellipsis. The menu is priced at 750 per personfor lunch or dinner in Bengaluru,` 1,000 for lunch and 1,200 fordinner in Delhi and Mumbai. From 23 September to 2 October. Visit

    restaurantweekindia.o to make reservations.

    E TAURANT WEEK INDIA

    BENGALURU, DELHIAND MUMBAI

    2,000 UNLIMITED BOOZESUNDAY BRUNCH AT ZIYA,MUMBAI

    BARGAINHUNTER

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    need to know

    Bamboo shootsCrunchy, flavourful and endlessly versatile, bamboo shoots are an integralingredient across Southeast Asia and north-east IndiaWords HOIHNU HAUZEL Photograph SONA BAHADUR

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    BBC GoodFoodSEPTEMBER 2013

    spotlighbamboo shoot

    Ever wondered if the secret

    to creating a flavourful Thai

    curry can be pinned down

    to one special ingredient?

    Well, apart from the curry paste, of

    course. It was a revelation to discover in

    Thailand that the Thais are particularly

    partial to fresh bamboo shoot. The

    Thai curries I relished invariably had

    bamboo shoot added to the dish, along

    with white pumpkin and pea aubergine,

    which the Thais refer to as ma khua

    proh. Traditionally, fresh bamboo shoot

    is boiled in water before it is used in

    Thai dishes.

    Veena Arora, Chef de Cuisine

    at The Imperial Hotels famous

    restaurant, Silk Route, in New Delhi,

    uses bamboo shoot in all her Thai

    curries. It makes all the difference to

    use bamboo shoot, especially in curries

    and stir-fried dishes, says the Thai

    chef of Indian origin. At home, Arora

    often rustles up a Thai soup called dom

    jud nomai sot, made of thinly sliced

    bamboo shoot and pork ribs mixed

    with salt, garlic and pepper.

    The ingredient is vital to Vietnamese

    cuisine too. Fresh, tender shoots are

    used to prepare several Vietnamese

    broths, including sp bn mang g a

    noodle soup with chicken and bamboo

    shoots, usually eaten for breakfast.

    Indeed, the flavour of the soup depends

    upon the quality of bamboo shoot,

    which is cut lengthwise and added

    with other ingredients like shallots,

    mushrooms, sliced ginger and rice

    vermicelli. Ideally, young shoots should

    be used to impart a distinct taste.

    Bamboo shoots are also an integral

    component of Chinese stir-fries.

    Baba Ling, owner of long-established

    Chinese restaurants Nanking in Delhi

    and Lings Pavilion in Mumbai, says

    that bamboo shoot is an essential

    ingredient in the Chinese kitchen, and

    is prized for its firm, crunchy texture.

    Apart from tossing it into his stir-fries,

    he uses it in stews and also adds it

    to pork curry along with soya sauce.

    Theres nothing like pork curry with

    bamboo shoot, he says.

    The plant grows extensively not just

    in Southeast Asia and India but also in

    Africa and the Far East. It is referred

    to by different local names in each of

    these places. The edible shoots of the

    bamboo plant are plucked when they

    are just about two weeks old: tender yet

    firm. The shoots are surrounded by a

    protective, shell-like outer casing that

    has to be peeled layer by layer until the

    tender core is exposed. The best way to

    treat peeled bamboo shoots is to slice

    them thinly and then wash thoroughly.

    Some people soak the shoots in water

    overnight to dilute their pungency or

    bitterness. Most importantly, this also

    purges the toxins believed to be present

    in the bamboo shoot. After this, it can

    simply be fried like any other vegetable.

    In India, it is during the monsoon

    that tender bamboo shoots sprout from

    the root and are ready to be eaten,

    although they are never consumed raw.Predictably, this is also when every

    household across north-east India

    feasts on bamboo shoot dishes, making

    full use of this seasonal bounty. Family

    members gather in their courtyards and

    peel the outer layers off the bamboo,

    bonding over the communal exercise.

    In the seven sister states, where

    bamboo shoots are abundant, it is

    widely relished as a delicacy. The Nagas

    love it in their pork. The Mizos use it

    in bai, a traditional dish that is a mix of

    vegetables or meat cooked with soda, or

    even in chutney. The Assamese use it in

    fish curry to impart a tangy flavour.

    Of course, bamboo shoot is widely

    available in its canned form, though the

    people of the north-east prefer using

    their own methods to preserve the

    perishable shoots for use throughout

    the year: they are commonly smoked,

    dried or fermented.

    But fermented bamboo shoot

    is an acquired taste. The process of

    fermentation is tedious shoots are cut

    into small pieces, wrapped in plantain

    leaves and stored inside a wicker or

    cane basket in a cool, dry place. Over

    the course of about a week, the shoots

    gradually turn moist, to the point of

    becoming watery. This water is squeezed

    out from the bamboo shoot before it is

    cooked. Fermented bamboo shoots lend

    a special depth of flavour to pork-based

    dishes. In Manipur, it is also used in fi

    curry and in chutneys such as ironba,

    which contains fermented fish laced

    with the fiery raja chilli.

    Increasingly, bamboo shoots are

    commonly pickled with salt and othe

    condiments. Bamboo shoot pickle is

    made with mustard oil, garlic, ginger

    and lots of chillies. Some households

    even use the native bhut jolokia(one

    of the hottest chilli peppers in the

    world). Bamboo shoot pickle is relish

    in pockets of south India, too. In a

    small hill station called Sakleshpur

    in Karnataka, it is made with garlic,

    mustard seeds and curry leaves.

    Centuries ago, when hunter-

    gatherers first discovered bamboo

    shoot was edible, they may not have

    been preoccupied with its health

    benefits. But today we know thatthis crunchy delicacy is loaded with

    nutrients. High in fibre, it is said to

    regulate cholesterol, aid in weight los

    and balance blood pressure. In fact,

    a study on the effects of fibre presen

    in bamboo shoots, published in the

    scientific journal Nutritionin 2009,

    found that women who consumed it

    regularly lowered their LDL or bad

    cholesterol. Being naturally low in su

    and calories a cup of cooked bamb

    shoot contains only 14 calories it is

    also ideal for weight watchers.

    Fresh,tendershoots areused to

    prepareVietnamesebroths

    indeed,the avourdepends

    upon thequality ofbambooshoot

    Shredded chicken,curry leaf and bambooshoot stir-fryServes 420 minutesEASY

    Recipe AMIT PAMNANI

    Heat 1 tbsp oilin a wok. Add

    10-12 curry leaves, 2 red chillies,

    slit lengthwise and 3 chopped garlic

    cloves. Saut for 30 seconds and

    add 1 sliced red pepper. Saut for a

    minute, add 400g cooked, shredde

    chicken, 200g sliced bamboo

    shoots and 1 tbsp soya sauce.

    Season well and toss to mix evenly.

    Turn off the gas. Garnish with

    chopped spring onions, chopped

    coriander and a drizzle ofsesame

    oil. Serve hot.

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    No cereal is more beloved to Indians than rice, yet it remains at the centre ofa stormy nutritional debate. BBC Good Foodgets to the grain of the matter

    Words NANDITA IYERRICE

    investigates

    Its hard to think of a cereal that is

    more intrinsic to Indian culture

    than rice. It journeys with us for

    a whole lifetime. It is the first

    solid food a baby is traditionally fed

    during the annaprashan ceremony (a

    Hindu ritual that marks the infants

    first intake of food), and it is sprinkled

    over a deceased persons mouth during

    the antim sanskar,or last rites. A vast

    majority of the Indian population eats

    rice as its staple grain, similar to Asian

    countries such as China and Japan,where it is almost always the main part

    of a meal.

    In recent years, Indias rice

    production has boomed. According

    to a Bloomberg report published in

    June 2013, Indias rice output this year

    is expected to be around 110 million

    tonnes, cementing its place as the

    worlds second largest grower of the

    grain after China. Out of this, 10.5

    million tonnes is likely to be exported,

    making the country the worlds largest

    exporter of rice. And yet, rice is one

    of the most controversial cereals of

    our time. Opinions about the grain

    are sharply polarised while some

    nutritionists advocate it over wheat

    because it is gluten-free, a far larger

    number recommend avoiding it

    altogether because it is considered to be

    full of empty calories that fuel obesity

    and increase the risk of type-2 diabetes.

    So what is the truth about rice? Are

    some varieties better than others?

    How much of it should you include in

    your diet?

    HISTORY AND TYPES OF

    RICE

    The historical origin of rice cultivation

    remains a controversial subject. In

    his book, Sturtevants Notes on Edible

    Plants, American botanist Edward

    Lewis Sturtevant traces the origin ofrice to roughly 130 million years ago,

    when it existed in the form of wild

    grass. It was first cultivated as a grain

    around 10,000 years ago, somewhere

    in Asia. There is evidence that rice

    was grown during the Indus Valley

    Civilisation in the Third Millennium

    BC. But the first domesticated variety

    is believed to have been cultivated in

    the Yangtze River Valley in China, more

    than 8,000 years ago.

    Rice is broadly categorised into

    two major subspecies Indica and

    Japonica. The popular rice varieties we

    consume belong to one of these two

    types. According to the International

    Rice Research Institute, a research

    organisation based in the Philippines,

    Indica is an umbrella term that includes

    several different varieties of rice that

    grow well in warm temperatures.

    These varieties are distinguished by

    medium to long grains of rice, which

    retain their form after being cooked

    and dont clump together. Aromatic

    basmati and jasmine are two of the

    best-known Indica rice varieties.

    Japonica rice varieties have short to

    medium opaque grains and tend to b

    sticky and moist when cooked, due t

    the lack of a component of starch ca

    amylose, which keeps grains whole.

    They are also prized for being highly

    nutritious and low in starch. This kinof rice forms the backbone of Japane

    cooking. Glutinous or sticky rice, wh

    is widely used in Southeast Asian

    countries such as Laos, Vietnam and

    Thailand, and arborio are two kinds

    Japonica grains.

    The size of a rice grain is precise

    defined: while short grain rice has

    almost the same width and length,

    medium grain rice is twice as long a

    is wide and the length of long grain r

    is thrice its width.

    THE ANATOMY OF A GRA

    OF RICETo get to the bottom of the debate

    on the nutritive properties of rice,

    its important to start with a single

    grain. The outermost layer of the ric

    grain is known as the huskor hull.

    It is inedible and therefore removed

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    during milling. The second layer called

    branis highly nutritious and contains

    fibre, proteins and minerals. It can be

    light brown, black or red in colour,

    which gives unpolished grains their

    characteristic colour. This kind of rice

    is considered nutritionally superior to

    polished white rice. Once the husk is

    e m nate , m ng t e gra n urt er

    removes t e ran ayer to revea

    theendosperm, which contains

    carbohydrates, proteins and important

    amino acids. A rice grain stripped

    down to its endosperm is what we

    know as white rice. The degree of

    processing determines the colour of

    the grain.

    WHITE RICE VS BROWNRICEThe process that converts brown rice

    nto w te r ce estroys 67 per cent o

    t e v tam n B3 content, 80 per cent

    o v tam n B1, 90 per cent o v tam n

    B6, 50 per cent of the manganese

    and phosphorus content and 60 per

    cent of iron, along with dietary fibre

    and essential fatty acids. So it is no

    surprise that brown rice is much more

    nutritious than white rice. It has more

    fibre, iron, potassium, phosphorus,

    zinc and minerals such as copper and

    .

    owever, t e ran conta ns

    essential oils, which makes it more

    prone to spo age t an w te r ce,

    which has had the bran removed.

    Also, the antioxidant compounds

    called phytates present in the bran can

    hinder the absorption of important

    nutrients such as iron. This is a minor

    drawback of brown rice, but not

    significant enough to take away from

    ts ot er ene ts. oo ng re uces t e

    phytate content of brown rice to some

    extent, says Sheela Krishnaswamy,

    a Bengaluru-based nutrition and

    wellness consultant. If brown rice

    was really problematic for health, it

    would not have been widely used many

    decades ago. Also, since brown rice has

    more nutrition than white rice, some

    kind of a balance is struck.

    here does that leave white rice?

    In ts e ence, t s not comp etey

    evo o nutr ents. It s an mportant

    source of carbohydrates (amounting

    to 77.5 per cent) and high quality

    protein (about 4g per cup). However,

    protein from white rice is incomplete

    because it does not contain adequate

    quantities of an essential amino acid

    called lysine. Eating foods rich in lysine

    helps the body procure this missing

    essential amino acid. Some of these

    foods are beans, lentils, soya products,

    nuts an a ry pro ucts. T s a so

    exp a ns w y com nat ons e a an

    rice or yoghurt and rice are considered

    nutritionally complete.

    In India, we also have another

    variety of rice called parboiled rice,

    also known as converted rice. Here,

    rice that is still in the husk is partially

    boiled and dried. Nutrients from the

    husk and bran are allowed to seep

    into the endosperm, so the milling

    process does not strip the rice entirely

    of its nutrients. Par oile rice is use

    almost daily in south India, and also for

    ma ng t e atter or s or osas.

    e Amer can D a etes Assoc at on

    lists it as a low glycaemic index food, or

    one that takes longer to digest, thereby

    preventing a sudden spike in blood

    sugar levels.

    WEIGHTYM TTERS

    ne of the most debaspects of rice is its association

    wt weg t ga n. A o t o weg t

    oss c n cs an se -sty e experts onot permit the consumption of rice

    because they believe its difficult to

    quantify rice intake, often leading to

    excess intake, says Krishnaswamy.

    The truth is that it is often tougher t

    practise portion control with rice. In

    rice-eating communities, three or fou

    dishes are typically paired with the

    rain, making it difficult to keep trac

    of the quantity being consumed.

    However, Krishnaswamy says

    t s not true t at r ce as a g er

    calorie burden than other grains. It

    is a myth that a person on a weight

    oss reg me s ou avo r ce, or

    that rice causes weight gain, says

    Krishnaswamy. According to an

    article published in the Journal of

    the American Dietetic Association in

    October 2009, Americans who eat

    rice obtain a smaller portion of their

    NUTRITIONAL COMPARISONBETWEEN WHITE RICE ANDBROWN RICE

    Per cup White rice Brown rice

    Calories 242 kcals 218 kcals

    Protein 4.4g 4.5g

    Carbohydrate 53.2g 45.8g

    Fat 0.4g 1.6g

    Fibre 0.6g 3.5g

    Magnesium 24mg 86mg

    Folate 108mcg 8mcg

    Zinc 0.8mg 1.2mg

    ourtesy livestrong.com

    The process that converts brown ricento white rice destroys 67 per cent of the

    vitamin B3 content, 80 per cent of vitaminB1, 90 per cent o vitamin B6, 50 per centof the manganese and phosphorus contentan 60 per cent o iron, a ong wit ietary

    re an essentia atty aci s

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    BBC GoodFoodSEPTEMBER 2013

    need to know

    food issu

    The satiety factor of white rice is low dueto negligible bre content, which meansthat unless it is combined with otherhigh-bre foods and protein, you will feelhungry soon after eating a predominantlywhite rice-based meal

    daily calories from fat and have a lower

    rate of saturated fat consumption than

    those who do not eat rice. The study

    also found that people who eat rice

    consume more fibre, vegetables, iron

    and potassium than their counterparts

    who shun it.

    But it is important to add to its

    nutritional heft by choosing the right

    pairings. The satiety factor of white rice

    is low due to negligible fibre content,

    which means that unless it is combined

    with other high-fibre foods and protein,

    you will feel hungry soon after eating

    a predominantly white rice-based

    meal. In countries such as Japan and

    South Korea, rice is typically paired

    with protein-rich foods such as fish

    and meat, which is why obesity rates

    in these predominantly rice-eating

    societies are very low, when compared

    to a country like the United States.

    THE DIABETES LINKIts difficult to establish a direct link

    between eating rice and the risk of

    developing type-2 diabetes. However,

    it is a well-known fact that Indians are

    genetically prone to developing insulin

    resistance, a condition that lowers the

    bodys sensitivity to insulin and causes

    metabolic problems that can eventually

    snowball into diabetes. White rice has

    a high glycaemic index, which means

    it swamps the bloodstream with a large

    amount of sugar in a relatively short

    span of time. Brown rice takes longer to

    metabolise, giving the body more time

    to break down the blood sugar.

    According to a study published

    in 2010 in theArchives of Internal

    Medicine, a peer-reviewed medical

    journal, Higher intake of white rice

    (five or more servings per week)

    is associated with a higher risk of

    type-2 diabetes. In contrast, a high

    intake of brown rice (two or more

    servings per week) is associated with

    a lower risk of type-2 diabetes. It was

    thereby estimated that replacing anuncooked measure of 50g of white rice

    a day with the same amount of brown

    rice lowered the risk of type-2 diabe

    by 16 per cent.

    However, people in north-east Ind

    Japan and China have been eating wh

    rice for generations without any majo

    diabetes scares. This co