Bath Bomb Press

Owners Manual

PLEASE NOTE !!

Making Bath Bombs with a Press is completely

different than making them by hand. The easiest way to

master the EZ Way Bath Bomb Press, is to forget

everything you know about making Bath Bombs.

Why?….Making BBs with a Press is going to compact

much harder than anything you can use by hand. Oils,

water, the feel of the mix, everything thing is different.

Use the suggested recipe first.

Allow yourself time to get familiar with the Press and

how the Bath Bomb mixture feels. Then and only then,

should you proceed with your favorite recipe.

Included is your How-To DVD…

Your DVD should play in any standard DVD player

(standalone or computer)

For other How-To Videos, Go to….....

https://soapequipment.net/knowledge-base/how-to-video-gallery/

Table of Contents

Important Notice & Index Page 2

EZ Way Press Parts Diagrams Page 3

Setting up the Press Page 4

Setting up Depth of Stroke Page 5

Connecting your Air Supply Page 6

Tablet, Cylinder, Cuber, MiniBall & MaxiBall Setup Page 7

Sculpted and Designer Bath Bombs Page 8

Using D-Ringer & Plunger Page 9

Starting Recipe Pages 10

Troubleshooting Page 11-13

Mixing, Production and Other Good Tips Page 13-14

Mixing Large Batches Page 15

Citric Acid Information Page 16

EZ Way Soap Stamper Instructions Pages 17-18

Examples of Bath Bombs Pages 19

How-To Videos & Tech Support Contact Page 20

3

Safety Hood

Setting Up Your Bath Bomb Press

Hood Rail

Back Board

Air Tubing

Control Valve

Base

Black Fence

Knob

Tube Mold Knob Tube Mold Block Tube Mold Guide

Black Fence

Safety Button

Guide Angle

1/4x1/4 elbow

1/8x1/4 elbow

Air Cylinder Depth Adjust Rods

Guide Angles Black Fence

Angle Knob

Mold Foot

Depth Stop

Tube Mold

Block

Tube Mold

Guide

Tube Mold

Knob

Air Cylinder Mount

Please familiarize yourself with the part names, to make it easier to

navigate the instructions.

It will also help, should you need to call for Tech Support.

Air Hose

Coupling is just

behind Back

Board

Stamper Arm

4

Setting up and adjusting the EZ Way Press

No matter what mold you are using, first attach the

Mold Foot. This has a threaded hole which will screw

onto the threaded stud on the Depth Stop.

For any Mold that has an irregular shape, (not

round) you will use one of the foam washers pro-

vided. This allows you to tighten the Mold Foot

without, over-tightening and stripping the threads.

Remove the Hood by pushing inward with both hands

and pulling upward and out. The Hood is held in place

by its own spring tension. To reinstall, just reverse the

process, sliding it into the hood rails.

To move the Mold Foot up or down, first check again

that your Air Line is disconnected. By pulling on the

Control Lever, you can release air from the Air Cylin-

der, allowing you to pull up or down on the Depth Stop.

This allows you to place it where you want it.

The following steps are for setting up all

molds except MaxiBall and MiniBall Molds.

This adjustment of your Mold, Mold Foot and Fences

will take the most time and is the most important step,

other than the depth adjustment. If this is a frequent

setup, then you might consider marking the Mold and

Mold Foot with registration marks to make the setup

faster.

Remember, if the Mold is not aligned properly,

you can chip or permanently damage the mold.

Slide the Mold back, towards the Black Fence, cen-

tered on the Mold Foot. Adjust the Mold Foot so it is

aligned with the Mold Bottom. Bring it down, into the

Mold Bottom, holding it in place.

Slide the Black Fence against the back notch in your

Mold Bottom. Lightly tighten the Black Fence Knobs.

Now slide the Guide Angles into the notches on each

side of the Mold.

The Air Pressure is pre-set at 50 PSI. Never exceed 100 PSI (0.69 MPA )

DISCONNET THE AIR WHEN SETTING UP A MOLD

You will notice that the bottom part of your Mold has

Two notches. These will rest against the back of the

Black Fence and both Guide Angles. Your Mold Bot-

tom, will slide in and out, between the two Guide An-

gles and against the Black Fence.

5

Check your set up one more time.

Check for proper Mold Foot depth.

Check for alignment of the Mold Foot with the Mold Bottom.

Check that the Guide Fence and Black Fence are properly aligned with the Mold Bottom.

Replace the Hood and you are ready to go.

For all molds except MaxiBall and MiniBall Molds you

will adjust depth with the Depth Adjust Rods.

MaxiBall and Miniball Molds, the Mold Foot stops when

the Depth Stop, hits the top of the Mold Tube.

Bring the Mold Foot down into the mold and set your

depth. This is a critical adjustment! Make sure you are

not too deep. If you are too deep, the Mold Foot can get

stuck in the Mold and possibly damage it.

Setting the Thickness and Density of Your Bath Bomb: By setting the depth of your Mold Foot, you determine the thickness of the

Bath Bomb. Most of our molds allow about 1/4” (64mm) of adjustment.

The easiest setting for Density (weight & compaction) is to fill the mold

level with the top, then press. However, some molds require filling half way,

pressing lightly with the fingers, then filling the rest of the way.

You will want to experiment with your first couple of batches, with depth

setting and filling technique, to get the perfect Bath Bomb.

Write down what did and did not work. You can always wet your batch with

witch hazel a few times, to keep working so you don’t waste much material.

Remember, room humidity & material moisture level must be controlled.

Adjusting Depth of Stroke

De-Molding Sculpted or Two Part Molds

Sculpted Molds or Two Part Molds have a Mold

Bottom and a Mold Foot. They are released by

turning upside down and rapping lightly to drop

the finished Bath Bomb out onto the table. Pages

4 & 5 display the set up.

With your press is a rubber Tamp Pad that you

will use when de-molding. It will give you a firm

surface to rap your Mold Bottom on and prevent

chipping, or cracking.

Once you have determined proper depth for the Mold

Foot, you may adjust the Nuts on the Depth Adjust

Rods.

Loosen the Nuts. Run the Bottom Nut down to the sur-

face of the Air Cylinder Mount. Then, run the Top Nut

down, until it is against the Bottom Nut. Do the same for

the other Rod. Check your depth again. Now tighten

both sets of Nuts. This will lock them in place.

6

I bet you’re wondering when we’re going to tell you how to make it go

up and down. Of course…….if you are not wondering, then you failed

our patience test and have already pushed the Red button and

pulled the Control lever, at the same time…..oops……Now you know.

The Air Hose will connect to the Quick Connect

fitting on the back of your Safety valve.

To connect, snap the Air Hose Coupling on to the

Quick Connect fitting by pulling back on the

knurled ring of the Air Hose Coupling and pushing

on to Quick Connect fitting at the same time.

If you have difficulty with this, go to the DVD and

look for the video covering this.

Connecting the Air Line

Tip:

You will find two holes on each side of the white Back Board, next to the

Safety Button and Control Valve. These are to fasten the Press down.

We highly recommend doing this, as it will have a tendency to move

around, once a little dust begins to form under it.

NEVER EXCEED 100 PSI (0.69 MPA) Preset at 50 PSI

To move the Mold Foot up or down,

you will first check again that your Air

Line is disconnected.

By pulling on the Control Lever, you

can release air from the Air Cylinder,

allowing you to pull up or down on the

Depth Stop.

This allows you to place it where you

want it. This also allows you to check

that your Foot is entering and exiting

the Mold smoothly. Very Important!

DISCONNECT AIR WHEN MAKING ADJUSTMENTS

Please watch the video on maintaining your Air Compressor, Air Tank ,

Air Lines and Air Regulator.

7

MaxiBalls, Tablet, Cylinder, & MiniBall Set Up

MaxiBalls & MiniBalls

First screw on the Mold Foot.

Be very careful to thread it on straight. It

does not need to be super tight. You do

not want to strip the threads!

There is no depth adjustment required for

a Round Ball. The Depth Stop will stop the

Mold Foot at the full stroke.

If you wish to leave a Saturn Ring, then

you can adjust the length of stroke by fol-

lowing the instructions on Page 5. Or, you

can just fill more. Try filling a little more

first.

You will place your Tube Mold Guide as

shown on top of the Tube Mold Blocks

and securing it with the Tube Mold Knobs.

Bring the Mold Foot down into the Tube

Mold by pulling on the Control Lever at the

same time.

You may want to loosen the Tube Mold

Knobs slightly to make a minor adjustment

to the Guide but it should not need much.

These are set during the machining proc-

ess.

Drop your Mold Bottom into the Mold Tube

and check for smooth action & clearance.

Replace the Hood and you’re ready to go.

Tablet, and Cylinder Molds Setup of the Press, Tube Mold Guide and Blocks are the same as above.

Use the Foam Washer, see page 4 for molds that are not round.

Except for the Tablet Foot, setup for these molds are all the same.

These molds all have a Mold Bottom that slips inside and is pushed up by

the Mold Release Plunger (see next page) when de-molded.

In filling any of these Molds, you may adjust the height of the Bath Bomb to

just about any height, from 1” to 2” (25mm to 50mm). Like the Sculpted

Bath Bombs, you will need to experiment with the depth of

stroke and the fill level to get your desired result.

De-molding for these molds is the same. Place the

Mold Tube over the Mold Release Plunger and push down

on the Mold Tube. Take the Bath Bomb off the Mold Bottom.

In many cases you can just turn your mold upside down

and let the Bath bomb fall into your hand, try this first since it

is faster. Plunger Base

8

Using the D-Ringer and Plunger

The Plunger is a white plastic post at-

tached to a small plastic base. It is used to

push the Mold Bottom up far enough so you

can take hold of the Mold Bottom.

If you intend to D-Ring; remove the ring

left after pressing the sphere or ball then

use the Plunger. This will allow you to grasp

the mold bottom.

We like to call the ring, the Saturn Ring.

Most people like to leave this and some

make it quite wide.

The picture to the left shows that the

D-Ringer compared to the Mold Bottom, it

is a little larger and deeper.

The picture to the right shows how D-

ringing is accomplished.

9

MicroBalls, Cherry Bombs, Multiple Spheres, Cuber

Note: All molds below use a rubber washer, between the Foot and Depth

Stop, to keep tension and alignment, and to prevent over-tightening.

The setup for Cherry Bombs & Micros are the

same and the setup is very similar to the setup

on page 4.

Place the rubber washer on the Threaded

Stud, then screw on the top piece, called

the Foot.

Place the mold bottom directly under the

foot.

Bring the foot down into the mold bottom,

to make perfect alignment.

Remember you can pull the Control Lever

to release air, allowing you to move the

Foot up and down. (See page 7)

Adjust the Guide Fences and Black Fence

until you have perfect alignment.

Move your Mold Foot up and down, to

make sure movement of the Mold Foot, in

and out of the mold, is free and smooth.

Move your mold back and forth, making

sure of an easy slide with no pinching and

yet remaining aligned with the Mold Foot.

To de-mold, place the Mold Bottom over

the Mold Release Plunger and press down.

You may find that you can simply, turn the

mold over and let the balls fall into your

hand.

Use the MiniBall tips and instructions for

filling and compaction.

Don’t forget to watch your DVD for

additional instruction coverage. MicroBall

Plunger Base

10

Suggested Starting Recipe

Ingredients:

1 cup (US) or 250 ml Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)

1/2 cup (US) or 118 ml Citric Acid (Add last—see below)

2 tablespoons (30ml) Almond Oil (Can be mixed with Coconut oil, Sun-

flower, Jojoba, Cocoa Butter, etc.) All light oils affect release from Mold.

1 to 2 teaspoons (5ml to 9ml) Essential Oil or Fragrance Oil....One tea-

spoon is usually enough.

Color: Dry pigments seem to work best but watch how much you are add-

ing. Oil soluble colorants also work.

Witch Hazel; used separately and as needed for moistening material.

The main thing is having just the right amount of moisture, and this may

need to be adjusted as required based on your oils, humidity and the dry-

ness of your powders .

Mixing:

Mix all dry ingredients together, except for the

Citric Acid.

Then mix all of the liquid ingredients.

Once the liquid is mixed, slowly add to your

dry ingredients while stirring.

If your colorants are oil soluble mix it with your

oils. If colorants are dry, mix in with your dry

ingredients.

Finally, add your Citric Acid and mix Very,

Very well.

Use a spritzer (fine spray bottle) with Witch Hazel to mist your batch as

needed.

See picture below how the

mixture should compress.

Mixing Methods:

A 7-8 cup, Food Processer

works great for one or two

batches and keeps the dust

down.

By hand; a wire whisk is okay

but will take longer and does

not mix as thoroughly.

You can also use a two beater

hand mixer.

For large batches a Pot Whip-

per in a bucket works great.

See Page 13

Let sit a couple minutes, then

blend again. The material

should clump in your hand and should stay clumped together when

dropped back in the bowl. Adjust moisture as needed.

11

Troubleshooting:

The top four support issues in order of importance.

1. Use of Additives

2. Setup of Press and Mold

3. Uncontrolled Moisture or Humidity

4. Changing more than one thing at a time.

Use of Additives:

The tightest, fine-textured, hardest, fizziest, most shippable Bath Bombs,

are just plain ole’…..citric aid, baking soda, scent, some oil & witch hazel.

Any dry ingredient other that Baking Soda and Citric Acid can ruin Bath

Bomb production and Bath Bomb (BB) quality.

Think about it; adding things like salt, cornstarch, Epsom salt or clay, is

useless in the average tub full of water. 40 gallons of water and a teaspoon

or two of what? The recommendation for Epsom Salts in the average tub of

water is 2-3 cups, 2 1/2 being standard. There are 16 tablespoons in a cup.

So ideally you need at least, 32 tablespoons of Epsom salts to really do

your customer any good.

What your customer may figure out; Here’s an example of “iffy” mar-

keting. How many people buy a Hershey chocolate bar thinking they are

getting 100% milk chocolate?.....I bet millions. They actually do get

some 100% chocolate but the most of it, is…..other stuff. Do you want

to be found wanting when your customer adds up how much they really

are getting from “therapeutic ingredients” in your product?

Here are some of the benefits they can get; true aromatherapy (Eos),

moisturizing for the skin, a pleasing and refreshing aroma, fun & relaxa-

tion because it is more than just a bathtub full of water.

Some Additives are like trying to mix oil and water, just doesn’t work.

Some powders simply do not bond well.

If after using the starting recipe you decide to try adding other powders

and have challenges, try reducing the amount used.

The following have been found to detract from bonding and may cause

cracking, splitting of round BBs, draw excess moisture and degrade

faster on the shelf. They will not compact as well and will not ship as

well. Epsom Salt, Cornstarch, Salt, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Here are some solutions:

Put the powder in the center of the BB. If the ball or shape is large

enough, add half the material, make a depression, then add a small

amount of powder, fill rest of the way and press.

Put the material on top in a dimple and cover with frosting, cocoa butter,

etc. See pages 8 and 15 for examples.

Setup of Press and Mold:

Mold jumping up when raising the Foot.

Sculpted Molds, Shaped Molds, like Froggy, Heart, Star, etc. These

molds are tapered and when the depth stop is not set to the correct

depth the bottom edge of the Foot, jambs into the sides of the mold cav-

ity like a cork in a bottle.

12

Troubleshooting cont.:

Setup of Press and Mold cont.:

If the Guide Angles or Black Fence are not properly aligned the Foot

can come down into the mold, scraping along one side, forcing it one

way or the other. This causes stress on everything and will shorten the

life of your mold and overtime the seals on your Air Cylinder.

Here is how to solve all setup issues; “Read your instructions”. Another

source of help is our “How-To Video” web pages. See Page 20 for link.

Uncontrolled Moisture or Humidity:

Take this into consideration on your wait time after mixing. It will effect the

amount of moisture you actually need.

Fresh materials are very important with all dry ingredients. Make sure you

have a reliable supplier. Keep everything sealed super tight.

Storing your ingredients is very important. See Page 16 for tips on storing

materials.

We suggest not making BBs when it is raining or with open windows on a

humid day. If you are in an area that is very humid or it rains frequently,

set up a room with a de-humidifier.

Test, note results, test, note results for everything, especially liquid. One

squirt from your bottle may be too many. I know all this sounds anal but

once you have it down pat, the rest is a no brainer.

Changing more than one thing at a time:

“Things were going along just fine but !!”…..Something went wrong

and now you can’t make a good BB to save your life. Or, now they are

cracking and you “haven’t got a clue”. There is a clue; it is…...Look for

what changed.

Did you change suppliers, ingredients, methods? Get in the habit of

checking the temperature and humidity. Make notes. Maybe your air tank

has not been drained and the pressure is off. Your answer is in the

change, whether it is method, condition of the equipment or environment.

Change One Thing at a Time!! This is a time honored axiom for any-

one who is in the business of fixing problems. No matter if it is com-

puters, autos, or Bath Bombs…...follow this rule in troubleshooting.

Miscellaneous Troubleshooting:

MaxiBalls Splitting in Half:

Can be caused by too wet a mixture or too dry a mixture. Take notes

as you work to find the ideal amount of moisture to add.

Try waiting about 4 seconds before raising the foot. This gives time for

the materials to bind together, like gluing two things together.

You might also try filling about half full, pressing down in the center

with your hand to pre-pack, then fill the rest of the way.

Try raising the foot more slowly. As the Mold Foot rises it creates suc-

tion on the Mold Bottom. The air must balance. We added grooves

and holes to compensate for air flow but sometimes this is not enough.

MaxiBalls or MiniBalls Soft on Top:

Probably from just not getting enough material in the mold.

Try pumping the Mold Foot up and down a couple of times. Some-

times this will jar the mixture enough to make it tighten it up.

13

Troubleshooting cont.:

Bath Bomb is not Releasing from the Mold and or, is breaking up:

Are you using oil? If not, this can cause all kinds of issues. If you are

using oil, is the type of oil heavy enough to lubricate the Mold?

Problems with Cracking:

Some people swear by Kaolin Clay and use it to prevent cracking. If

you use the Starting Recipe you will not need it.

Drying too fast can cause cracking.

Check on how your Bath Bombs are drying on the inside, to determine

if you are compacting it enough or need to loosen it up. This requires

breaking some open at different times and noting the condition.

If you experience cracking, you may find that they are too tightly com-

pressed or you have bad Citric Acid or Baking Soda.

The Air Cylinder Shaft is moving slowly, either up or down:

First check that there is no buildup of powders in the control lever,

preventing it from moving all the way back and forth. Check that the pressure is okay at the source, the valves are turned on

and pressure is correct at the Air Regulator. Have you been draining the water in your air tank? Go to our website page “How To Videos” www.soapequipment.com/

howto/howtovideos.htm on how to take care of your air compressor. Keep your work space clean:

This causes all sorts of problems. Gets into the controls. Prevents the

mold from seating into the Guide Fences. Build up of material causes undo wear on molds, plastic surfaces,

metal part s and will greatly affects your production efficiency.

Mixing Tips:

Blend all very, very well, as instructed. Use a Cuisinart, a food processor,

or a hand or electric mixer, to mix your bath bomb mixture.

Remember the Clump Test on Page 10. Find that perfect mixture!

If you are using a hand or electric mixer, you might want to try spritzing

your oils in with a spray bottle. It will help keep the dust down.

Let the mix set a few minutes then mix again. This seems to help bonding

and release. You can have one batch setting while working on the other.

Your oil is important for release so be careful if cutting it. Oils like coconut

and light oils may need the addition of a little Jojoba, Cocoa Butter, Al-

mond or a thicker oil to lubricate the release.

If you need to “re-press” the material for whatever reason and return the

mixture to its “fine” condition, try using a hand pastry cutter. Just chop it

all back up, add a little witch hazel and re-press.

Production Tips:

Once proficient at making BBs with your press, you can start making multi-

ple batches, including baking soda, all liquids, less the Citric Acid. These

can be stored for several hours, ready to use when needed.

Citric Acid is added last, just prior to making the BBs.

14

Production Tips, cont.:

The mix can be stored in a 5 gallon bucket with a piece of plastic cut

round and tucked down on top of the mixture.

Be sure when using this procedure to weigh everything. Do not trust vol-

ume measurements. This will take some trial and error.

tart with a few batches, testing time and workability of the mixture, then

work up, taking notes at every change.

Example of a 4 x Suggested Recipe Batch : This is how to use the large

batch method. Eventually you can do half a days production this way. The

following is an example of a simple formula.

1160 grams baking soda

60 grams olive oil

8 grams of FO or EO (Note: some EO/FOs are more watery so compensate.)

12 grams witch hazel

580 grams citric acid

Food color was not used here. If liquid, allow for that amount.

Note: Remember humidity will affect the liquid content.

Other Good Tips and Ideas:

Drying Bath Bombs:

For drying, you can lay the Bath Bombs on foam, soft paper, towels, old

blankets, etc. That egg crate foam for bedding works great.

For drying lots of Bath Bombs, use our Vented Drying Trays for real space

saving and faster drying. You can place foam or padding right in the tray.

You can use a de-humidifier in a small room. Just remember to watch

drying too fast. Take notes of the humidity.

Get a humidistat to tell you what the rooms conditions are. Take notes.

Decoration:

Some like to leave the Saturn Ring on the Miniball and MaxiBalls by add-

ing a little extra material. This does save time De-ringing.

When you want that embedded look on top with salt, flower petals, etc.,

put the material in the mold bottom, fill about half way, press down with a

couple fingers, then fill the rest of the way. When you de-mold, turn up-

side-down into your hand.

You can sprinkle salt on top, dribble chocolate over them. There are nu-

merous things you can do to decorate a Bath Bomb.

Packaging:

One idea is to use shrink-wrap bags. Just drop in your Bath bomb and

seal the opening. If you prefer you can heat shrink it tightly.

PVC shrink wrap will help seal out moisture that will cause your product to

break down, before it’s time. Another idea is to wrap in cello paper and tie

with a pretty ribbon or wrap in colored tissue paper and tie.

Our Shrink Wrap, Wand Systems can be used to package your Bath

Bombs.

15

Mixing Large Batches:

One way to make large batches is to use our Pot

Whipper and a Bucket (5 or 6 gallon).

Here’s How:

1. Cut a slot in the lid about 1/2” (13mm) wide,

starting from the edge of the lid (including the

overhang edge of the lid) to the middle. A sharp razor blade knife

(box knife) will work. A Saber saw, band saw, etc. will also work.

2. To make removing the lid easier you can slit the overhang edge of

the lid every 2” (50mm) or so.

3. Now put your first ingredients (Baking Soda, etc.) into the bucket.

4. Stick your Pot Whipper in the bucket, slide the lid on and lightly

snap the lid down.

5. Mix your dry ingredients on a slow speed, working the corners and

bottom of the bucket.

6. Start dribbling in your liquids while running the drill on low speed.

7. After all your liquids are in, run up the speed, mixing thoroughly.

Note: You can hold the mixture in the bucket for quite a while in this

state. This will allow you to pre-make several hours worth of work

ahead of time. You add the Citric Acid later.

8. Now pop off your lid and add the Citric Acid.

9. Put the lid back on and mix again.

10. With larger batches you should use a spray nozzle that dispenses a

heavy spray. See Picture at right.

Try to determine just how many squirts it will take to moisten your

batch. You may know from making smaller batches.

It might take a little longer the first few batches, but

try counting then mixing. For example; put in 10

squirts, mix, then take the lid off and check it. Keep

repeating this until you have found just the right com-

bination.

Better yet, figure out how many grams you need per

large batch.

After several batches you will have it perfect.

Find the pictured equipment on our Tools & Accessories page.

Soapequipment.com/accessories/

16

Citric Acid & Baking Soda Information

Citric Acid & Baking Soda:

Use only fine ground, food grade Citric Acid.

Coarse grain Citric Acid will not always bind properly.

Do not use technical grade. It is generally too coarse.

Inferior Citric Acid is the number two cause of failed Bath Bombs. Moisture

is number one. Citric Acid is most affected by moisture.

All Baking Soda is not created equally. Commercial grades are usually

drier and bind better.

Here are some sources:

Essential Depot, FL, www.essentialdepot.com, 866-840-2495

Camden Grey, FL, www.camdengrey.com, 305-500-9630

Adeline Chemicals, CA, www.adelinechemicals.com, 408-982-6869

Unilever, www.unilever.com

BASF, www.basf.com

Unilever and BASF are both worldwide.

Whomever you buy from…..Test the materials before buying a lot of it.

It is imperative that your dry ingredients are kept dry:

If you purchase your powders in large quantities such as 50 lb bags, plan

on using it as soon as possible after opening.

If you will be transferring the dry materials to other containers:

Your plastic containers should be filled all the way up except the one you

will work with first. Cut a round piece of drop-cloth plastic to fit inside and

press down on the material.

We suggest 2 or 3 gallon (7.5L - 11L) plastic pails. A 2 gallon (7.5L) plastic

pail will hold about 14 pounds (6.4kg) of Citric Acid.

5 gallon buckets work okay if using quickly. Cut a round piece of drop-

cloth plastic to fit inside and press down on the material.

A source for plastic pails is Uline, www.uline.com

Dehumidified room: This could be your storage and your drying room.

Using a Desiccant:

The use of a desiccant will aid in keeping your ingredients dry and can

save you a lot of frustration trying to figure out what went wrong.

A source of desiccant packs is: www.uline.com

For even more control, you can find online companies that sell desiccant

packs with indicators when they are used up.

Store desiccant in air tight containers until you use them.

You can reuse desiccant packs.

Place them on a metal cookie sheet, then put them in the oven with the

temperature at about 250°F (121°C) for about two hours.

A dehydrator works great too.

Small quantities can be placed in tight snap lid containers, heavy Zip-Loc

bags, etc.

Mark your ingredients with the date and use as soon as possible.

17

EZ Way Soap Stamper Setup

Now do the same with your stamp but screw it

on to the threaded stud on the bottom of the

Stamp Spacer. Careful not to over tighten.

Place one of your Foam Washers on the Stamp

Spacer and screw on to the threaded stud on

the bottom of the Depth Stop. Careful not to

over tighten.

Slide a bar of your soap against the Black

Fence. Now move the fence in and out until you

have the stamp where you want it. Tighten the

Fence Knobs.

Adjust your Hold Down (black curved plastic

piece). You can adjust up or down and side-

ways.

You can readjust after you get started. Make

sure the stamp releases from the soap. The bar

may jump up after raising the foot. That is okay.

You can slow down a little on the uptake to

compensate.

Now adjust one of the Guide Angles, whichever

is most comfortable, for the best stamp position.

The thin plastic piece that is about, 8”x 8” (20cm

x 20cm) will slide under the two Black Fence

Knob Washers, and under the Black Fence. It

will butt up against the plastic back of the EZ

Way Press.

This covers the Air Release Grooves in the

Base and prevents marking your bar.

Do not tighten the Black Fence Knobs until you

finish adjusting for your stamp block.

18

When to stamp

Cut your bars evenly, with as flat a surface as possible.

An uneven surface will not stamp well. It can also transfer uneven

pressure on up to your plunger assembly and slide mechanism.

Generally the soap should < breathe > for a day or two after cutting

before stamping it, although you may find, some recipes can be

stamped within hours.

You want your soap to be soft enough that it takes the impression

well, but dry enough that the stamp releases easily.

Much depends on your recipe, climate, humidity, etc. Stamping your

soap within the first week after cutting is usually best.

You can vary your recipe and the liquid used in your formula for

more control but it is best to watch your timing. With a little practice,

you will soon find the optimum time for stamping bars.

Do not stamp cured soap.

If you discount water, use salt or additives and oils that make an ex-

ceptionally hard bar right out of the mold, you must stamp right

away.

Practice at first on a scrap piece of soap. Note how much pressure

is needed, how much drying time there was, etc. Take notes the first

few batches and fine-tune your procedure.

Usually the stamp depth is based on the depth of the engraving,

stopping at the plastic background. You can adjust your depth by

using the Depth Adjust Rods if you want a little more control on

depth. To be successful with this, your bars must be precisely cut to

a constant thickness.

Tip: Try using a damp sponge or blotter and just bump your stamp with

this. This can shorten your wait time on stamping, but it will also de-

crease your speed and efficiency. You probably will not need to do this

but if you run into a difficult or sticky batch of soap, it may make the dif-

ference between a poor impression and great impression.

Tip: Another thing you can try for release is food grade silicone spray,

light cooking oil, etc.

You can increase or decrease

the pressure for your stamp by

adjusting the air pressure on

your regulator.

Be sure if you do change the

pressure, to change it back

when finished.

Completed Setup

19

Some of our stock, Sculpted

Bath Bomb Molds

Cherry Bombs

Micro Balls

Examples of custom molds

that we have made.

The Maxi Cone

Visit us at

SoapEquipment.com

For more new and

unique designs in

Bath Bombs.

The

Mini

Cone

20

Essential Oil Safety Guidelines:

Essential Oils are very powerful substances that should be treated with respect.

Most are for external use only. A rule of thumb is; a drop of essential oil is

equal to one ounce of plant material. Good ventilation is very important!

Fragrance Oil Information: Not all fragrance oils (FO’s) are created equal. What may work well from one

supplier might dramatically differ from another supplier’s oil. FO’s are mostly a

mix of synthetics, that may try to mimic a scent in nature or have an entirely,

individualized scent. Good ventilation is very important!

Willow Way …. for All of your Soap Making

and Body Care, Manufacturing needs.

Visit us at www.soapequipment.com

Let us custom design your system today!

We have extensive experience in all aspects

of CP, M&P, Liquid and HP Soap, Toiletries, Lotions, Creams, Packaging and Marketing

We can help you improve your efficiency and sales.

Thank you for purchasing our EZ Way Bath Bomb Press

Copyright © 1996 Willow Way, LLC. All rights reserved Worldwide

Before calling support….. Try our How-To Videos

https://soapequipment.net/knowledge-base/how-to-video-gallery/

For Technical Support….

Please email first if possible and spell out in detail

the difficulty. Pictures always help.

tech@soapequipment.com. (870) 429-8230