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Ballathie, Sunday Express
1
64 SUNDAY EXPRESS February 15, 2015 TRAVEL whizz by. After covering 300 miles and spending a night in Kamloops, we were up at first light and back on the rails. Traversing the Thompson River into First Nations territory, it wasn’t long before a small church appeared on the horizon. The picturesque, unassuming wooden building has a claim to fame beyond its starring role in thousands of tourist snaps: it was recreated, plank for plank, on the set of Clint Eastwood’s Western, Unforgiven. The locations that we passed through had names every bit as inspiring as the views they provided: from Lake Louise with its beautiful log station which starred in the movie Doctor Zhivago, to Kicking Horse Canyon and its sweeping bridge and modern highway through the mountains. At the Jaws of Death Gorge, with the river flanked by sheer cliff face, we watched bald eagles gracefully soaring overhead and elk, mountain goats and big-horned sheep contently grazing, ignoring us as we trundled through their habitat. As fabulous as watching the world go by with a G&T in one hand may be, I was glad I had been able to explore the great outdoors thoroughly before I boarded. I love nothing more than the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere so the Rimrock Resort in Banff suited me to a tee. It’s close to the town’s hot springs and its angular design means the majority of the rooms offer an uninterrupted mountain panorama. Banff is actually located within an expansive national park and the sheer scale of the landscape, with its glaciers, peaks, alpine meadows and rivers teeming with salmon makes it an outdoor enthusiast’s dream destination. It being summer, the chilly draw of snowboarding and skiing was off the agenda so I spent the day wandering through the forest before riding the gondola (Canadian for cable car) up 2,292ft to take in the views from the more-fragrant-than-you- might-anticipate Sulphur Mountain. The trails at the top provided an enjoyable afternoon strolling in the sun, while the horizon of soaring peaks spread the Rockies out like elder statesmen. It was a very different vista to the one that awaited me at the end of my two days on the rails. Arriving in Vancouver, the late evening sun glinted off the sea and the city’s abundance of glass skyscrapers. Restaurants buzzed in the warm summer evening and as I sipped chilled white wine it wasn’t too hard to reconcile myself to the fact I hadn’t spotted a bear. After all, it gives me the excuse to go back and try again. l GETTING THERE Virgin Holidays (0844 557 3859/ virginholidays.co.uk) offers a 10-night Rocky Mountaineer First Passage to the West tour from Banff to Vancouver from £3,049pp (two sharing), room only. Price includes Red Leaf Service on train, three nights in Calgary, three in Banff, one in Kamloops, three in Vancouver, flight from Heathrow to Calgary and return from Vancouver. Breakfast and lunch on the train are also included. For June departures. Alberta tourism: travelalberta.co.uk Banff Lake Louise tourism: banfflakelouise.com. British Columbia tourism: FROM PREVIOUS PAGE RIDING HIGH: The Sulphur Mountain gondola takes visitors up 2,292ft, and there are great views from the Rimrock Resort in Banff, right SUNDAY EXPRESS February 15, 2015 65 TRAVEL BRIAN SWANSON heads to Stanley in Perthshire to sample the delights of the Ballathie Country House Hotel and discovers a menu to rival the finest anywhere in Scotland PERFECTION: From the setting and the rooms, to the service, below Fine dining without the fuss but with all the substance W ELCOME to the homely grandeur of Ballathie Country House Hotel, considered by many – and me – to be home to Perthshire’s finest dining experience. We have been invited to the 125-year-old hotel, near the village of Stanley, just north of Perth on the A9, to sample the award-winning menu, which turns out to be one of our better decisions. The signs, from the start, are good. Quietly, and without fuss, boxes are being ticked. These include the quick-thinking waiter who while taking our pre-dinner gin and tonic order takes the trouble to let us know that there are actually 18 different brands, mostly Scottish, available to choose from and would we care to pick a favourite? Hand-crafted Speyside Caorunn Gin with a slice of red apple since you ask... Also, the young waitress displays a remarkably comprehensive knowledge of the night’s menu and at no stage in the evening addresses my wife and I as “guys”. The unstuffy dining room – with understated style in a restful palette of cream and yellow, crisp linen and fresh-cut flowers on each table – is definitely what my late dad would have described as “swanky”. All of the above would be irrelevant if the food was not up to scratch, but to be honest, if that evening’s dinner – created by head chef Scott Scorer and his brigade of kitchen magicians and combining the bold and traditional – had been served in a Portakabin, it would still have impressed us. We murmur appreciatively as our waitress brings an impressive variety of warm rolls – you’d be surprised how many allegedly superior restaurants serve them almost ice cold. And would we like a slice of lemon or lime or a sprig of fresh mint with our table water? Another pleasant surprise. Eileen chooses Ballathie Waldorf salad, with goat’s cheese mousse, candied walnuts and radish cress – and very impressive it looks and tastes. Food’s for sharing right? My steak tartare served with corned beef, fried quail’s egg, truffled toast and wasabi cream is one of the most delicate and beautifully presented dishes I have seen for a long time. It is, of course, delicious. A gently cooling sorbet – not one of those that threaten to freeze the brain – leads us to the main course, with my hefty roast loin of venison with smoked venison croquettes, savoy cabbage and black pudding bon bons turning out to be a terrific – and locally sourced – choice. Eileen is equally delighted with her choice of guinea fowl confit, fondant potato and artichoke puree. We share a wonderfully light homemade chocolate and chestnut truffle torte brandy snap tuille with vanilla ice-cream, which is the perfect end to a memorable meal. Service throughout is charming and attentive, but never overbearing – and it’s worth noting that on a midweek, mid-month, with a gale howling outside, the dining room hums with the buzz of contented diners who had clearly made an effort to be here. No driving home in the dark for us, however. We have booked into a luxury bedroom overlooking the River Tay. Think period furniture, including four- poster bed, a huge antique wardrobe, and a rolltop bath and you get the picture. ● FACT FILE: Until the end of April, Ballathie is offering a special spring break rate from as little as £99 per person per night, sharing in a twin or double room, inclusive of four-course dinner, bed and full Scottish breakfast. Until March 27, the hotel is also serving its renowned three-course spring lunches from £16.95 per person from Monday to Friday. To book call 01250 883268 or email enquiry@ ballathiehousehotel.com traveloffer Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer Selected departures May to September 2015 Price includes • Explore some of the most spectacular alpine scenery in the world on a stunning two day journey through the majestic Rockies on the incredible Rocky Mountaineer train between Banff and Vancouver • Return flights from London Gatwick, with connections from Manchester available • Excellent hand-picked superior three-star hotel accommodation • Two breakfasts and two lunches included on Rocky Mountaineer • Travel on the Icefields Parkway, one of the most scenic highways in the world and walk on the 300-metre thick Athabasca glacier • Stay and tour Vancouver, vibrant, sophisticated and overlooking the Pacific Ocean • Escorted by an experienced tour manager * Extend your nine-day holiday with a seven-night full board Alaska luxury cruise through the ‘Inside Passage’ with Holland America Line, visiting the awe-inspiring World Heritage Site of Glacier Bay National Park. Enjoy optional glacier helicopter flights, bear and whale-watching, fishing, kayaking, hiking and even dog-sledding, amongst the huge selection of shore excursions on our Alaska Cruise. 15 days from £2,959pp 9 DAYS FROM ONLY £2,149 PP Fully bonded and protected Call 0871 988 8374 to request a brochure To read more about this offer visit www.expsriviera.co.uk Calls cost 10p p/min from a BT landline. Mobile and other providers’ costs may vary. Prices based on per person sharing a twin room, single rooms available at a supplement, optional insurance extra. Holiday organised by and is subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road. Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP. Offered subject to availability. Additional entrance costs may apply. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. ABTA No. V4744 3430 01983 721111 italiangetaways.co.uk FREE tours to Venice & Verona FLY FROM Manchester, Southampton, Birmingham, Bristol, Stansted, Gatwick only for new bookings made 14-20 February Prices are per person based on 2 sharing. Only £200 deposit BARGAIN PRICES Hotel Alpino, Malcesine £599 Hotel San Marco, Malcesine £599 Hotel Centrale*, Riva Del Garda £699 Hotel Primo*, Riva Del Garda £699 Hotel La Perla*, Riva Del Garda £799 ALL with B/B and FREE tours to Venice & Verona *FREE Half Board at some hotels NO HIDDEN EXTRAS! Price you see is the price you pay! LAKE GARDA £ 599 7nights from Hougue du Pommier ★★★ ★★★ La Trelade Hotel Lovely Country ★★★ House Hotels St Pierre Park Hotel ★★★★ Great food. Great service. B/B included. Fast Ferry from Weymouth/Poole or Traditional Ferry from Portsmouth INCL. TAKING YOUR CAR! LUXURY VALUE ALSO AVAILABLE (SAME COST) PAY IN FULL WHEN BOOKING and get FREE CAR HIRE FLY from GATWICK, BRISTOL, EAST MIDLANDS, STANSTED Add £30 - Manchester, Southampton Add £60 - B’ham, Exeter, London City BOOKING HOTLINE: 01983 72 1111 islandgetaways.co.uk All prices per person based on 2 sharing. Booking fee £12 per person. ATOL/TOPP £2.50 per person. only for new bookings made 14-20 February FLY AWAY from only £ 149 Incl. B/B 2nts 3nts 4nts 7nts NOW-31Mar £149 £179 £209 £299 1Apr-30Apr £199 £229 £259 £349 1May-31Oct £249 £299 £349 £499 Incl. B/B 2nts 3nts 4nts 7nts NOW-31Mar £199 £249 £299 £349 1Apr-31May £249 £299 £349 £449 1Jun-31Oct £289 £349 £409 £589 Guernsey (Saturday on Ferry = £30pp extra each way) Delicious evening meals only £20pppn sc*/gas sc*
description
Ballathie House in the Sunday Express
Transcript of Ballathie, Sunday Express
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64 SUNDAY EXPRESS February 15, 2015 TRAVEL
whizz by. After covering 300 miles and spending a night in Kamloops, we were up at first light and back on the rails. Traversing the Thompson River into First Nations territory, it wasnt long before a small church appeared on the horizon.
The picturesque, unassuming wooden building has a claim to fame beyond its starring role in thousands of tourist snaps: it was recreated, plank for plank, on the set of Clint Eastwoods Western, Unforgiven.
The locations that we passed through had names every bit as inspiring as the views they provided: from Lake Louise with its beautiful log station which starred in the movie Doctor Zhivago, to Kicking Horse Canyon and its sweeping bridge and modern highway through the mountains.
At the Jaws of Death Gorge, with the river flanked by sheer cliff face, we watched bald eagles gracefully soaring overhead and elk, mountain goats and big-horned sheep contently grazing, ignoring us as we trundled through their habitat.
As fabulous as watching the world go by with a G&T in one hand may be, I was glad I had been able to explore the great outdoors thoroughly before I boarded.
I love nothing more than the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere so the Rimrock Resort in Banff suited me to a tee. Its close to the towns hot springs and its angular design means the majority of the rooms offer an uninterrupted mountain panorama.
Banff is actually located within an expansive national park and the sheer scale of the landscape, with its glaciers, peaks, alpine meadows and rivers teeming with
salmon makes it an outdoor enthusiasts dream destination.
It being summer, the chilly draw of snowboarding and skiing was off the agenda so I spent the day wandering through the forest before riding the gondola (Canadian for cable car) up 2,292ft to take in the views from the more-fragrant-than-you-might-anticipate Sulphur Mountain.
The trails at the top provided an enjoyable afternoon strolling in the sun, while the horizon of soaring peaks spread the Rockies out like elder statesmen. It was a very different vista to the one that awaited me at the end of my two days on the rails. Arriving in Vancouver, the late evening sun glinted off the sea and the citys abundance of glass skyscrapers.
Restaurants buzzed in the warm summer evening and as I sipped chilled white wine it wasnt too hard to reconcile myself to the fact I hadnt spotted a bear. After all, it gives me the excuse to go back and try again.
l gETTing ThERE Virgin Holidays (0844 557 3859/ virginholidays.co.uk) offers a 10-night Rocky Mountaineer First Passage to the West tour from Banff to Vancouver from 3,049pp (two sharing), room only. Price includes Red Leaf Service on train, three nights in Calgary, three in Banff, one in Kamloops, three in Vancouver, flight from Heathrow to Calgary and return from Vancouver. Breakfast and lunch on the train are also included. For June departures.Alberta tourism: travelalberta.co.uk Banff Lake Louise tourism: banfflakelouise.com. British Columbia tourism:
FROM PREVIOUS PAGE
Riding high: The Sulphur Mountain gondola takes visitors up 2,292ft, and there are great views from the Rimrock Resort in Banff, right
SUNDAY EXPRESS February 15, 2015 65TRAVEL
BRIAN SWANSON heads to Stanley in Perthshire to sample the delights of the Ballathie Country House Hotel and discovers a menu to rival the fi nest anywhere in Scotland
PERFECTION: From the setting and the rooms,
to the service, below
Fine dining without the fuss but with all the substance
WELCOME to the homely grandeur of Ballathie Country House Hotel, considered by many and me to be home to Perthshires fi nest dining experience. We have been invited to the 125-year-old hotel,
near the village of Stanley, just north of Perth on the A9, to sample the award-winning menu, which turns out to be one of our better decisions.
The signs, from the start, are good. Quietly, and without fuss, boxes are being ticked.
These include the quick-thinking waiter who while taking our pre-dinner gin and tonic order takes the trouble to let us know that there are actually 18 different brands, mostly Scottish, available to choose from and would we care to pick a favourite? Hand-crafted Speyside Caorunn Gin with a slice of red apple since you ask...
Also, the young waitress displays a remarkably comprehensive knowledge of the nights menu and at no stage in the evening addresses my wife and I as guys.
The unstuffy dining room with understated style in a restful palette of cream and yellow, crisp linen and fresh-cut fl owers on each table is defi nitely what my late dad would have described as swanky.
All of the above would be irrelevant if the food was not up to scratch, but to be honest, if that evenings dinner created by head chef Scott Scorer and his brigade of kitchen magicians and combining the bold and traditional had been served in a Portakabin, it would still have impressed us.
We murmur appreciatively as our waitress brings an impressive variety of warm rolls youd be surprised how many allegedly superior restaurants serve them almost ice cold. And would we like a slice of lemon or lime or a sprig of fresh mint with our table water? Another pleasant surprise.
Eileen chooses Ballathie Waldorf salad, with goats cheese mousse, candied walnuts and radish cress and very impressive it looks and tastes. Foods for sharing right?
My steak tartare served with corned beef, fried quails egg, truffl ed toast and wasabi cream is one of the most delicate and beautifully presented dishes I have seen for a long time. It is, of course, delicious.
A gently cooling sorbet not one of those that threaten to freeze the brain leads us to the main
course, with my hefty roast loin of venison with smoked venison croquettes, savoy
cabbage and black pudding bon bons turning
out to be a terrifi c and locally sourced choice. Eileen is equally delighted
with her choice of guinea fowl confi t, fondant potato and artichoke
puree. We share a wonderfully light homemade chocolate and chestnut truffl e
torte brandy snap tuille with vanilla ice-cream, which is the perfect end to a memorable meal.
Service throughout is charming and attentive, but never overbearing and its worth noting that on a midweek, mid-month, with a gale howling outside, the dining room hums with the buzz of contented diners who had clearly made an effort to be here.
No driving home in the dark for us, however. We have booked into a luxury bedroom overlooking the River Tay. Think period furniture, including four-poster bed, a huge antique wardrobe, and a rolltop bath and you get the picture.
FACT FILE: Until the end of April, Ballathie is offering a special spring break rate from as little as 99 per person per night, sharing in a twin or double room, inclusive of four-course dinner, bed and full Scottish breakfast.
Until March 27, the hotel is also serving its renowned three-course spring lunches from 16.95 per person from Monday to Friday.
To book call 01250 883268 or email [email protected]
PERFECTION: From the setting and the rooms,
taking our pre-dinner gin and tonic order takes the trouble to let us know that there are actually 18 different
available to choose from and
The unstuffy dining room with understated style in a restful palette of cream and yellow, crisp linen and fresh-cut fl owers on each table is defi nitely what my late dad would have described as
course, with my hefty roast loin of venison with smoked venison croquettes, savoy
cabbage and black pudding bon bons turning
out to be a terrifi c and locally sourced choice. Eileen is equally delighted
with her choice of guinea fowl confi t, fondant potato and artichoke
puree. We share a wonderfully light homemade chocolate and chestnut truffl e
traveloffer
Canadas RockyMountaineerSelected departures May to September 2015Price includes Explore some of the most spectacular alpine scenery in the world on a stunningtwo day journey through the majestic Rockies on the incredible Rocky Mountaineertrain between Banff and Vancouver
Return flights from London Gatwick, with connections from Manchester available Excellent hand-picked superior three-star hotel accommodation Two breakfasts and two lunches included on Rocky Mountaineer Travel on the Icefields Parkway, one of the most scenic highways in the worldand walk on the 300-metre thick Athabasca glacier
Stay and tour Vancouver, vibrant, sophisticated and overlooking the Pacific Ocean Escorted by an experienced tour manager
* Extend your nine-day holiday with a seven-night full board Alaska luxury cruisethrough the Inside Passage with Holland America Line, visiting the awe-inspiringWorld Heritage Site of Glacier Bay National Park. Enjoy optional glacier helicopterflights, bear and whale-watching, fishing, kayaking, hiking and even dog-sledding,amongst the huge selection of shore excursions on our Alaska Cruise.15 days from 2,959pp
9 daysfrom only2,149
PP
Fullybonded
and protected
Call 0871 988 8374 to requesta brochureTo read more about this offer visit www.expsriviera.co.ukCalls cost 10p p/min from a BT landline. Mobile and other providers costs may vary. Prices based on per person sharing a twinroom, single rooms available at a supplement, optional insurance extra. Holiday organised by and is subject to the bookingconditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road. Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP. Offered subject to availability.Additional entrance costs may apply. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. ABTA No.V4744
3430
01983 721111italiangetaways.co.uk
FREE tours to Venice & Verona
FLYFROM Manchester,Southampton, Birmingham,Bristol, Stansted, Gatwick
only for newbookingsmade 14-20 February
Prices are per person based on 2 sharing.
Only200deposit BARGAIN PRICESHotel Alpino,Malcesine 599Hotel San Marco,Malcesine 599Hotel Centrale*, Riva Del Garda 699Hotel Primo*, Riva Del Garda 699Hotel La Perla*, Riva Del Garda 799ALLwithB/B and FREEtours toVenice&Verona*FREEHalf Boardat somehotels
NOHIDDENEXTRAS!Price you see is the price you pay!
LAKEGARDA5997nightsfrom
Hougue du Pommier La Trelade Hotel
Lovely Country House Hotels
St Pierre Park Hotel
Great food. Great service. B/B included.
Fast Ferry from Weymouth/Pooleor Traditional Ferry from PortsmouthINCL. TAKING YOUR CAR!
LUXURY VALUE
ALSO AVAILABLE (SAME COST)
PAY IN FULL WHEN BOOKINGand get FREE CAR HIRE
FLY from GATWICK, BRISTOL,EAST MIDLANDS, STANSTEDAdd 30 - Manchester, SouthamptonAdd 60 - Bham, Exeter, London City
BOOKING HOTLINE:
01983721111islandgetaways.co.uk
All prices per person based on 2 sharing.Booking fee 12 per person.ATOL/TOPP 2.50 per person.
only for new bookings made 14-20 February
FLYAWAYfromonly 149
Incl. B/B 2nts 3nts 4nts 7ntsNOW-31Mar 149 1792092991Apr-30Apr 199 2292593491May-31Oct 249 299349499
Incl. B/B 2nts 3nts 4nts 7ntsNOW-31Mar 199249 299 3491Apr-31May 249299 349 4491Jun-31Oct 289349 409 589
Guernsey
(Saturday on Ferry=30pp extra eachway)
Delicious evening meals only 20pppn
sc*/gas sc*
