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    Somalias woes

    Hope is four-legged and woolly

    Salvation for the worlds most utterly failed state depends more on private

    enterprise than international aid

    Oct 15th 2011 | BERBERA AND BOSSASO | from the print edition

    WHERE there are beasts, there is life, goes a saying in Somalia. Half of its people depend on

    livestock for their survival. This year they will export record numbers of animals. That

    seems improbable given that a famine is raging in south Somalia, which has seen over a

    million animals die of hunger and thirst. But the grazing in other parts of Somalia, especially

    the north, has been excellent and demand for livestock from abroad has never been higher.

    After banning Somali sheep and goats for many years, for allegedly being diseased, Jeddah

    in Saudi Arabia has once again declared them welcome.

    For the first time since the collapse of Somalia as a unitary state in 1991, Saudi and

    Lebanese traders have ventured into the local livestock markets. Goats are mainly exported

    to Mecca for the annual hajpilgrimage. The UNs Food and Agriculture Organisationestimates that $250m-worth of animals will leave the port of Berbera and its more

    ramshackle rival, Bossaso, in the seven weeks before the hajin early November.

    In this section

    Hope is four-legged and woolly Mo money A Swedish October surprise An extraordinary exchange rate Uncomfortably polarised

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    Africa Ethiopia African Union Mogadishu SomaliaIn the livestock market in Hargeisa, capital of the semi-autonomous region of Somaliland,

    sweaty goatherds press in on Adan Ahmed Deria, a trader. Hundreds of camels are being

    loaded onto lorries. Mr Deria nods to show that the price is fixed. God willing, he says, I

    will buy 800,000 goats and sheep this year. That is $52m of business, in cash, in a country

    where the economy has apparently collapsed.

    Trade is set to grow further. Saudi Arabia wants to double its livestock imports from

    Somalia by 2013. The herders face fierce competition from Georgia, China and Paraguay,

    buthalalbutchers value the quality of Somali animals, which are raised by nomadic Muslims.

    Somalis have hardly begun to tap the value of their animals. With about $50m in

    international help they could invest in watering stations, encourage communities to cure

    animal skins, make soap from bone marrow and fashion buttons from camel bone. They

    might also usefully improve transport by, say, building bridges over rivers prone to flooding,

    which would cut out rapacious middlemen.

    Though the region suffers from rampant piracy, it mainly affects international shipping

    rather than locals. Last month pirates captured a livestock ship in the waters off Bossaso;

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    they were killed within hours by irate traders and herders. Meanwhile, hijacked foreign

    freighters litter the coastline undisturbed.

    As parts of the economy grow, Somalis increasingly look to the diaspora for loans. Its

    members are prominent in gold and metal markets across Africa. Many excel at moving

    goods and money around. The once thriving fishing industry would be helped by investmentin refrigerators, as would frankincense cultivation, which employs 10% of the workers in

    Puntland, a breakaway region in the north.

    None of this is to deny that the situation in south Somaliathe countrys breadbasketis

    anything other than dire. UN figures yet to be published suggest that 80,000 people may

    already have died as a result of the famine. More are certain to follow them to the grave.

    According to Somali aid workers from the hungriest areas, the situation is bad but

    improving. Forecasts for the coming rains are promising. Showers have already arrived in

    some places. Recovery will be a struggle, but apocalypse looks less likely now.

    An American celebrity campaign, entitled F--- famine, emphasises that famines are man-made. That is unhelpfully vague but not necessarily wrong. In Somalia famine results from

    the strictures imposed by the al-Qaeda-linked Shabab militia, which controls large parts of

    the south. A drought has strained the entire region. But Kenya and Ethiopia have dealt with

    it much better than the ignorant and petty Shabab. They have been kicked out of

    Mogadishu, Somalias ruined seaside capital, by African Union (AU) troops paid by America

    and the European Union.

    The Shabab are not yet defeated, but they have lost a lot of ground and support. The story

    of a 23-year-old farmer, Ahmed Mohammed, is typical. He fled his village of Bulamerer on

    the Shabelle river along with his heavily pregnant wife and one of their children. They left

    two other children behind in the village with Mr Mohammeds mother and his teenage

    brothers and sisters. The familys goats died of hunger. He fears his children might suffer

    the same fate. Still, he says he will not return home until the Shabab have gone.

    The fighters take a third of the harvest as taxation, ban singing, whip the men to prayers,

    force the women to cover their faces, and violently break up any gathering of four or more

    people. The village school is run by the Shabab, but only those loyal to their cause are

    allowed to attend. Echoing the suggestion that the famine is at least in part man-made, Mr

    Mohammed claims he and others were denied access to river water for their crops.

    Now on the defensive, the Shabab have taken actions as desperate as they are deadly. On

    October 4th they arranged a suicide bombing in Mogadishu which killed over 100 people.

    Most were students queuing up for scholarships to Turkey. The bomber, a teenager,

    recorded an interview before the attack in which he said of the victims, They never think

    about the hereafter and about harassed Muslims.

    The target of the bombing was educationhope itselfbut also the Transitional Federal

    Government. It is supported by the AU troops in the capital. The prime minister, Abdiweli

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    Mohamed Ali, wants to finish off the Shabab and has said this is the time to intervene and

    that the cowards should not be allowed to regroup. An offensive led by the AU and

    transitional government troops this week hammered Shabab positions on the edge of

    Mogadishu. Publicly, donor countries say the government is the best bet to run the country.

    Privately, they lambast it. Sheikh Sharif Ahmed, the lacklustre president, has extended his

    mandate by delaying elections to next year, to nobodys satisfaction. Venal and inept, his

    government surely needs to be replaced. But with what?

    The International Crisis Group, a research and lobby group, argues that a European style

    centralised state, based on Mogadishu, is almost certain to fail. Somali elders talk of free-

    spirited nomads vomiting up orders made far away. Devolving power to towns and clans

    the linchpin of Somali societywould be better. But that too is risky. South Somalia has

    several separatist groups and Puntland has at least three separatist insurgencies which

    result in almost daily assassinations of officials and an indefinite delay in potentially

    lucrative oil exploration. Somaliland in the far north is different again. Despite a dependency

    on qat, a mild stimulant imported from Ethiopia, which accounts for a third of imports, or$160m a year, it has a maturing government and four successful elections behind it. Many

    Western diplomats now think it deserves full independence. Ethiopia might agree. It needs a

    stable Somaliland to pipe gas from a newly found field in the east to the coast.

    The non-Shabab parts of Somalia have every chance of seeing strong economic growth. The

    diaspora remits $1 billion or so a year. That could finance badly needed investments. Yet

    often the money comes with strings attached. Some benefactors engage in what is known

    as PlayStation politics in which they attempt, as in video games, to control affairs in their

    homeland remotely. Or pillage it: Where there is money, there is funny, says Abdiwahid

    Hersi, the director of Puntland fisheries.

    Take the spiny lobster. Puntland used to catch 2,000 tonnes of these each year. But

    predatory fishing practices have destroyed stocks. Last year, the catch was only 167

    tonnes. Next year, the spiny lobster may be gone forever. With it goes another chance for a

    better life in coastal communities tempted by piracy.

    Further economic growth in northern Somalia is dependant on law enforcementan unlikely

    prospect. A group of mercenaries is suspected of having landed a shipment of arms and

    equipment at Bossaso this month. Could they be paid to clear out pirate dens and save the

    spiny lobster? Somalis laugh at the thought.

    But with north Somalia recovering somewhat, while the south is mired in famine, one

    conclusion is inescapable. The Somalia of the past is gone. The southern breadbasket has

    fallen too far behind. Even though it may slowly be freed from extremist control, Mogadishu

    will only ever be the capital in name. The countrys economic centre of gravity has shifted to

    the Arab-facing north. Bossaso has grown from 50,000 to 1m people since 1991. Hargeisa

    has expanded even faster. The best hope for the south is that some of the dynamism

    spreads.

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    from the print edition | Middle East and Africa