AheAd Curve - Amazon S3 · Italian cut, while ex-Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati...

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Having witnessed what British designers were sending down the catwalks of London Collections: Men, JACK PHILLIPS travelled to Milan’s equivalent of Men’s Fashion Week to see what we can expect from the forthcoming Spring/Summer 2014 collections. Here’s what you’ll be wearing 12 months from now… AHEAD CURVE of the T his year’s Men's Fashion Week in Milan stayed true to its idiosyncrasies, as sunshine and loose tailoring was sent sashaying down its catwalks. Nestling between fashion weeks in London and Paris, Milan plays host to designers drawn, not only to the opulent parties, but also to the ‘Made in Italy’ byline. Over four days these brands showcase their Spring/Summer collections, which are set to hit department stores and boutiques early next year. BLAZERS AND SUITS Amongst the bright colours and floral patina blazers of the Italian brands, were collections offering traditional fine tailoring and subtle detailing. Jackets, whether single or double- breasted, figured prominently in all shows. With the South Asian markets keen to snap up the European big hitters, shows were well-attended. Zegna employed its younger, freer, edgier style to the traditional Italian cut, while ex-Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati demonstrated his skill, coupling personal flair and a demure palette with hard tailoring for the heritage Ermenegildo Zegna range. With a tribal motif, Missoni used materials in dusty tans and sun-soaked terracottas in its shirts, jackets and shorts. The outerwear made of rubber-coated yarn was a particular highlight and a collaboration with Scottish coat makers Thomas Hancock & Co gave fruit to a series of garments perfect for the British climate. Tom Ford takes its inspiration from the big city jet-setter, layering lightweight polo neck jumpers under bright coloured blazers and slim-fit tailored trousers. Although Ford chose hot pinks as its colour of preference, signature blacks and blues will dominate in the ready-to-wear range next spring. SHIRTS AND OUTERWEAR Gucci’s tech-inspired collection made use of modern fabrics employing trendy sports luxe techniques to create a range of shirts and trousers for the digital age. Bottega Veneta

Transcript of AheAd Curve - Amazon S3 · Italian cut, while ex-Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati...

Page 1: AheAd Curve - Amazon S3 · Italian cut, while ex-Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati demonstrated his skill, coupling personal flair and a demure palette with hard tailoring

Having witnessed what British designers were sending down the catwalks of London Collections: Men,

Jack PhilliPs travelled to Milan’s equivalent of Men’s Fashion Week to see what we can expect from

the forthcoming Spring/Summer 2014 collections. Here’s what you’ll be wearing 12 months from now…

AheAd Curve

of the

This year’s Men's Fashion Week in Milan stayed true to its idiosyncrasies, as sunshine and loose tailoring was sent sashaying down its catwalks. Nestling between

fashion weeks in London and Paris, Milan plays host to designers drawn, not only to the opulent parties, but also to the ‘Made in Italy’ byline. Over four days these brands showcase their Spring/Summer collections, which are set to hit department stores and boutiques early next year.

BlAzers And suitsAmongst the bright colours and floral patina blazers of the Italian brands, were collections offering traditional fine tailoring and subtle detailing. Jackets, whether single or double-breasted, figured prominently in all shows.

With the South Asian markets keen to snap up the European big hitters, shows were well-attended. Zegna employed its younger, freer, edgier style to the traditional Italian cut, while ex-Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati demonstrated his skill, coupling personal flair and a demure palette with hard tailoring for the heritage Ermenegildo Zegna range.

With a tribal motif, Missoni used materials in dusty tans and sun-soaked terracottas in its shirts, jackets and shorts. The outerwear made of rubber-coated yarn was a particular highlight and a collaboration with Scottish coat makers Thomas Hancock & Co gave fruit to a series of garments perfect for the British climate.

Tom Ford takes its inspiration from the big city jet-setter, layering lightweight polo neck jumpers under bright coloured blazers and slim-fit tailored trousers. Although Ford chose hot pinks as its colour of preference, signature blacks and blues will dominate in the ready-to-wear range next spring.

shirts And outerweArGucci’s tech-inspired collection made use of modern fabrics employing trendy sports luxe techniques to create a range of shirts and trousers for the digital age. Bottega Veneta

Page 2: AheAd Curve - Amazon S3 · Italian cut, while ex-Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati demonstrated his skill, coupling personal flair and a demure palette with hard tailoring

Trends | sTYLe

september 2013 THE CITY 37

and Calvin Klein chose the bomber jacket as ‘the go to’ staple for spring outerwear, with Klein opting for brighter colours in a range of blues and navies. Think ryan Gosling in Drive minus the flames!

Tie-less shirts were a big thing within most collections with lightweight polos and sport-inspired T-shirts also making an appearance in assemblages by Versace and Jil sander.

Footweardesigner shoemakers Tod’s displayed bright suede loafers amid a collection of lightweight travel luggage and spring jackets. etro paired its cowboy-themed collection with cowboy boots... no doubt most buyers will stick with an espadrille by Missoni or a loafer from Prada.

It can be hard to pull away from the classic Birkenstock or the ever-on-trend Havaiana flip-flop, but as an alternative, Dolce & Gabbana stayed true to the ‘Mandal’ with a discrete selection of open-toed summer footwear. expect to bare an ankle in a brogue paired with a short slim-fit trouser.

Luggage Luggage is a big part of the holiday summer season and the likes of etro, Armani and Missoni all had aeroplane-friendly leather and suede goods on show. The stand-out was a dark suede holdall from Tod’s which created a bag perfect for both the gym and a weekend away.

swimwear-wise, the short-short still seems to be the cut of the moment. expect to see crafted swimming shorts that look good both on the beach and in the bar when paired with a silk shirt and double-breasted blazer. dolce & Gabbana and London-based Turkish brand Serdar Uzuntas showcased a refined range within their respective collections.

What was overwhelmingly apparent at Milan is that next season is set to be a colourful one. Whether you go for signature couture singles with dense floral patterns or for the simpler pieces with subtle detailing, you can be certain that your favourite brands will be opting for bright optimism over dreary pessimistic greys.

Pictured, clockwise from top left: Autumn/Winter 13 looks

from Canali, etro, Valentino, Armani, Missoni, Jil sander,

Homme Mode and Tom Ford