F:FAIR.DOC

Sponsored Solo Circumnavigation of the UK in a Sadler 25

May Wednesday 1st Gosport to Yarmouth I.O.W After bad weather in the South I managed to cast off from my Portsmouth mooring at 1420, my first stop was Yarmouth I.O.W, tying up at 1805.

Jalina ready to depart her mooring at Gosport

Departing Portsmouth entrance

I was very surprised to find so few boats in the harbour. I always enjoy visiting this harbour all the staff are so very helpful and the facilities are first class. There are a variety of Inns to choose from to eat out, the surrounding countryside offering walks with superb views.

May Thursday 2nd Yarmouth to WeymouthMy next passage was to Weymouth, I cast off at 0425 to catch the first of the ebb through the Needles. As I cleared the Needles I could see Old Harry Rocks near Studland Bay in the distance, Old Harry normally bright white stood out a vivid pink in the early rising sun. The wind was light F2 with full main and No2 Genoa we made good progress.

I had started to settle into a routine, the navigation and fair log, my cooking, preparations for the next passage, safety was uppermost in my mind. I had prepared a long safety strop so I can be clipped on while sat at the chart table, with a second short strop that is clipped onto the jackstay when I go forward.I tied up in Weymouth by 1145, which gave me time to do a little sightseeing and to sort out all those items needed for the next passage, which was to be Dartmouth.

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May Friday 3rd Weymouth to Dartmouth I cast off from the Cove at 0445, rounded Portland Bill by 0630 and was in Dartmouth by 1520. The passage went well with F3 winds to start with, by 1100 it dropped to F1 for the remainder of the passage. A minor alteration of the course was made to avoid a cable layer. The facilities at Darthaven Marina are first class; mind you, you have to cross several rail tracks to reach the showers!

May Saturday 4th Dartmouth to PlymouthThe weather forecast for the next day, my leg to Plymouth was NE 2 to 3 increasing 4, a soldier’s wind. I left Dartmouth at 0515, again chasing the tide west. The morning was grey and overcast, with lobsterpots in abundance. With full main and No 1 Genoa we kept up a good pace with not a soul about and at peace with the gulls. By 1140 I was rounding Plymouth Mewstone and was tied up in Queen Anne Battery Marina by 1240. I was now feeling much more confident that I had established well-organised routines, both navigationally and domestically.

May Sunday 5th Plymouth to Helford RiverThe following day I slipped at 0600; I’m still finding it strange to be chasing the west-going tide, but it’s the only thing you can do; otherwise you lose the window. The weather forecast was NNW F2-3. My plan was to sail to the Helford River; not having been there before, I was really looking forward to the day. The wind was as forecast and, as requested, I picked up a green visitors buoy at 1440. Having sorted out Jalina I prepared something to eat and sat in the cockpit in the sun for the remainder of the evening while preparing my passage plan for sailing to Newlyn the next day. So to bed at 2030 – you see I had to chase this west going tide!

May Monday 6th Helford River to PenzanceIt was now the 6th May, and the morning started overcast with the waters still and, as I rolled up my sleeping bag, I could hear the odd fishing boat leaving the river. Once ready I slipped my mooring with some excitement, as earlier I had noticed a training ship anchored outside the river. With twin masts I suspected that it was one of the new STA vessels; it turned out to be Prince William. Not everyone meets Prince William at 0630 in the morning! This days passage was to round the Mannacles and the Lizard. The first of these was cleared by 0730 I then set a course to clear the latter by over two miles; This course also set me into the strongest tidal stream the wind by now was up the chuff; foresail boomed out and running at 4.5 knots. The Lizard was shrouded in early mist; she could just be seen as we cleared it at 0915.

On arriving at Newlyn I discovered there is no space at all for visiting yachts. I called the Harbour-master on VHF; no reply, the Harbour-master from Penzance two miles to the east answered and invited me to tie up in the inner harbour there. I accepted his invitation by 1320 I had been guided to a mooring on the inner wall and my lines taken, I was well pleased with the days sail.

May Thursday 9th Penzance to PadstowFor my next leg I planned to go direct to Padstow and if possible get into the inner harbour, rather than anchor outside. So it was to be an early start; yes this time I intended to overtake the tide! This passage was going to be more demanding, clearing the Longships and Bisons early in order to make Padstow on time.

Jalina and I cleared the loch at Penzance at 0500; still dark but with some twilight coming in the east. We cleared the breakwater and hoisted all sails; turned her head we were off; no shelter now until Padtow. The weather forecast was NNW F2-3 we sailed on clearing various cardinal marks. The morning was very misty at times you

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could not see the coastline. We, Jalina and I, reached the Runnel Stone an hour early; good! I was ahead of the eddy.

At this point it was my original intention to go through the Kettle, a passage between the coast and Longships LH, but because of the heavy mist coming and going I decided to go round the Longships to the West, an early decision had to be made otherwise the tide would take me down into the Longships with all the inherent dangers. Soon I could just see the Longships through the heavy mist – “be careful, I thought, or the eddy will draw you in, so I beat out to the west to give it a good offing.

I cleared the point by 0900, the Bisons by 1020, Pendeen Point by 1130 now I had a full flood tide to take me up to Padstow; I arrived outside the inner harbour at 1800 with 0.3m to spare under the keel.

Jalina in Padstow Harbour

For two nights I rested up in Padstow, taking the opportunity to visit the Town and enjoy the quiet of this beautiful harbour.

May Saturday 11th Padstow to Milford Haven (Nayland Marina)My next passage planned was to Milford Haven. Slipping my lines at 0430, this was the earliest I could leave due to the depth of water in the River Camel.I had prepared a good quantity of sandwiches and flasks of hot drinks. Two foresails had been prepared with the No2 Genoa hanked on and the No2 Jib lashed down on the fore deck ready for use. It was still dark out in the River Camel I hoisted full main and motored out into the open sea, I hoisted the No2 Genoa the wind was NNW F1/2 with the forecast saying the wind would back to NW F4. I knew this passage would be a bit of a flog, a beat all the way. I entered Milford Haven at 2100 at total of over 16 hours and covered a total of 93 miles, arriving at Neyland Yacht Marina at 0030 with a falling tide and my depth alarm ringing out. We did get in all right; it appears they are at present dredging the entrance.

Neyland is a first class Marina, the staff could not be more helpful, it has all the facilities you require, for Jalina – Sadler 25 the cost was £12.90 per night

May Wednesday 15th Nayland Marina to Dale Bay (Milford Haven)My next passage was to be to Fishguard where I would anchor; from Nayland I sailed to Dale Bay for the night, this Bay is situated west of the entrance to Milford Haven, I would anchor here for the night, then sail to Fishguard the following day.

May Thursday 16th Dale Bay to FishguardI left the Bay at 0715 I was looking forward to this passage to pass the islands of Skokholm and others nearby; these are all bird sanctuaries and SSSI designated. As

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I approached the channel markers I had to give hold back to allow a tanker to pass through the narrow channel. I then slipped into the edge of the channel and cleared the entrance at 0830. The weather forecast SE F4 with sunny spells. What a day! Clearing South Bishop with it’s bright white lighthouse was fantastic with all the other small islands in the background.

I arrived at Fishguard at 1500, did a little arithmetic to check the depth of water I required dropped anchor, made supper – a chicken casserole made earlier and heated up, sorted my chart-work for the next day and went to bed at 2000.

May Friday 17th Fishguard to PwllheliThe Welsh coast is very exposed with only one all-weather port available at all states of the tide, that is Pwllheli. So Pwllheli it was to be, my reasoning for this was, there seem to be a persistent pattern of lows coming through from the SW leaving many of the Welsh harbours exposed.

I was woken next morning at 0330 by an electric storm raging around me – the devil had come to visit! “What had I done to deserve this?” I asked? But, I was not going to be beaten; up came the anchor at 0600 while I was being hit by hailstones – the devil was still here! By 0800 the storm started to slip to the South West, the wind dropped the engine was started again. By 1300 I was in an easterly F5, three reefs in the main, a reef in the Jig and thick fog – the devil had sent his sister!

We arrived at the entrance to Pwllheli at 1720, another reason for leaving Fishguard an approaching gale had been forecast which could well last several days.I have now established a rapport with the Coastguard with my safety traffic, they are eager to help and respond to your calls with good humour.

Technical noteAs a technical note – I have fitted a roving safety strop that allows me to be clipped on while, for example sitting at the chart table. It also has a second Gibb hook to clip onto the jack-stay. At first it took some getting used to, but at least I know that I’m clipped on 100% of the time.

All the electrics are working fine; the new Simrad TP30 autopilot is the greatest asset with the GPS repeater a close second. The four-hourly CG weather and navigation warnings are excellent, I would not be without my Navtex weather reports. So far I feel the Devil has pushed me about a bit, but I’m sure the weather must get better.

May Sunday 19th Pwllheli to HolyheadTwo nights in Pwllheli had given me a good rest, with sandwiches prepared for the days passage. Before slipping I always check the Navtex and call the Coastguard to get the latest on the weather, this I did SWW F4/5 it all looked good.I slipped, clearing the entrance I headed for the fairway buoy, I had already given my passage plan to the Coastguard. I had been less than one hour into my passage when I received a call from the Coastguard informing me a forecast of gale force winds was imminent. I was back into Pwllheli Harbour by 0700, by mid morning galle force winds were hitting the Welsh coast.May Sunday 26th Pwllheli to HolyheadAfter being storm-bound in Pwllheli for ten days, during which time I had made many friends at the local Sailing club, there was a window in the weather for me to go to Holyhead. I set out on the 26th May via Bardsey Sound, a notorious patch of water with tide-rips, overfalls.

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The passage through the Sound went to plan; for once it was bright sunshine I was escorted by six or more Dolphins; it was great to have some company. I even put up the cruising chute and at one point was doing 10.5kts over the ground, 5.7kts through the water.

Jalina in full flight off the Welsh coast with cruising chute

Looking across to the east, the Welsh Mountains looked magnificent, shining in the sunlight, topped with whiskers of cloud; the green fields in contrast to the dark rocks. As the day went on the wind increased to F4 as I closed on Holyhead breakwater the light was fading, it was quit difficult to pick out the entrance until I got quite close in, then picked out the navigation light on the breakwater on clearing this I entered the small-craft channel.The town’s lights did not help but eventually I found a Holyhead SC mooring at 2300. As I signed off with the Coastguard they warned me that the lifeboat station would be sending up maroons for a practice and they did, bang! What a welcome!

I had noted the weather all that day and a front was coming in – Force 7-8. So, I was pinned down again and stayed in Holyhead for two days. While there, I took the opportunity to meet the men and women in the CG operations room to thank them for the support. While there they kindly supplied me with a 5-day weather forecast. I also met the coxswain of the lifeboat.

May Thursday 30th Holyhead to Peel I.O.MMy next planned passage was to the Isle of Mann, I decided there was a three-day window for good weather. So I set out for Peel situated on the west side of the I.O.M., it would shorten the distance to Northern Ireland. Because of the run of bad weather I felt that to go for Portpatrick could result in me being pinned-in in a south-westerly.I departed Holyhead at 0620 and radioed my passage plan to the Coastguard. I was getting itchy feet and was keen to get underway again. As I cleared the breakwater the swell was big it took some time to get into deeper water and for the wind to gather strength to drive us on. It was Force 3 at first, but by 0900 it had increased to a SW F5-6. With three reefs in the main and the working jib, this was going to be a fast passage. During the day I had to contend with squalls, a thunderstorm, calm conditions and F5-6, by 1700 I had cleared the Calf of Mann and an hour later, rounded the breakwater then picked up one of the three free moorings in the harbour.

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May Friday 31st Peel to Strangford Lough - Portaferry (Northern Ireland)My plan for the next day was to go from Peel to Strangford Lough in Northern Ireland. The entrance to this Lough is not for the faint-hearted. Timing has to be correct, so it was important I should arrive there on time. Force 2 was predicted for the passage so I departed Peel at 0600. It all went well, clearing S Lough Fairway at 1210, I was tied up in Portaferry by 1330. Because of the strong tides through Portaferry, great care is needed when approaching the pontoons.

June Saturday 1st Portaferry to BangorCare had to be taken in the planning for this passage, both for my departure from Portaferry and going through the Donaghadee Sound. I slipped my lines at 0445, I managed to take a moon sight with my Sextant at 0513.42 (2654.5). we cleared the south Cardinal to the entrance at 0600, and tied up in Bangor at 1215The passage to Bangor, via Donaghadee Sound; the overfalls in this made the Swinge to the Channel Islands seem quite tame. I found the people of Bangor extremely friendly and very helpful.

June Sunday 2nd Bangor to Red Bay north of Glenarm MarinaThe next stop was to be Red Bay to anchor north of Glenarm a small new marina. This was a good setting out point for the Mull of Kintyre and Scotland. I was now feeling more confident but very cautious, navigation was becoming more of a habit and was more accurate. Jalina was performing well in the heavy seas, her fine prow giving her good pointing in these seas. We slipped form Bongor at 0430 and headed due north to cross Belfast Lough, clearing Balleygalley Head by 0800. By 0900 we cleared Garron Point the headland east of Red Bay, seeing the white tops in the bay I decided to put two reefs in the main and change down to working Jib. By the time I arrived in the Bay the wind had risen to force 5/6 with a very uncomfortable swell, so I decided to turn back to Glenarm Bay and try the new Marina there.

The Harbour Master there was really helpful assisting me on my arrival. By 1200 we were tied up in this spacious Marina.

June Monday 3rd Glenarm to Ghia (Scotland)I was still chasing the tide and carefully watching the weather leaving Glenarm at 0450 the next morning, reporting to the Clyde Coastguard giving my passage plan to the small island of Gigha to pick up a mooring or anchor in Ardminish Bay for the night. It was a fantastic passage in bright sunlight all day, with light winds.

Jalina rounding the Mull of Kintyre

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I rounded the Mull of Kintyre via the Minch Passage, from where I could see the White tops of the overfalls to port. I arrived in Ardminish Bay at 1330, well pleased to be in Scotland. Ardminish Bay is breath taking with some of the finest scenery I have ever seen. The water was so clear that I could see every detail on the sea bed.

June Tuesday 4th Ghia to Craoba Marina Loch ShunaMy next passage was to Craobh Haven (pronounced ‘Groove’) via the entrance to the infamous Corryvreckan, down the Sound of Jura I left Gigha at 0630. I was really enjoying the passage planning and wonderful scenery in Scotland. I still say it cannot be beaten.The sun shone all day with a gentle breeze of F1 and the wind coming from the east, it was a perfect day, with the high mountains so dominating, I was now meeting a few other cruising yachts. Having cleared the entrance to the Gulf of Crryvreckan and the Sound of Luing I spotted Loch Shuna.Craoba Marina is dotted with colourfully painted cottages and sitting in some of the most picturesque scenery I have ever seen.

June Wednesday 5th Craoba Marina to Oban (Kerrera)From Craobh Haven I was planning to sail to Oban via the Luing Sound between the Island of the same name and Scarba. I was told that the week before two Swedish yachts and one German had hit rocks there; well, what a challenge. All I had to do was keep to the rhum line. The tide rushes through the sound at 10kts but, apart from some pirouettes, we arrived in Oban at 1500. I stayed at the small marina on the island of Kerrera, opposite Oban.

By now I needed a rest with the expected bad weather arriving the next day giving me the opportunity to rest, I took the next three days off, visiting Oban, carrying out checks on various items on board, stocking up with water, fuel, vitals as Oban would be the last port to purchase major items. I decided to check the weight of gas left in the cylinder, on removing the regulator all the threads had ‘welded’ themselves to the cylinder and were stripped. So, it was another trip across to Oban to purchase a new regulator and change the gas cylinder.

Jalina had performed well; she is a well-found sea boat I feel safe with her, with her 48% ballast ratio, three-point reefing of the mainsail and No 2 jib that can be slab-reefed, she can be balanced well in all conditions. For 95% of her passage making I have only used the No 2. For the technically minded I have fitted a Simrad RD68 DSC radio, a NASA SSB receiver (this latter was as a backup in case the NASA Navtex went down). My tiller pilot is a Simrad TP30 which has done really well handling up to Force 6 on the beat. What I have found very useful has been the portable VHF, a Simrad HT50; it has performed particularly well going into a marina single-handed. I can talk to the marina staff as I steered Jalina within the marina.

For my mobile phone I carry a portable battery system with two cigar lighter sockets, this also acts as a general battery backup. I use it for the searchlight and for charging the portable VHF. For charging the two main batteries I have a Rutland 503 and a 20W solar panel. Together with the normal use of the engine in and out of harbour they are kept well charged.

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June Saturday 8th Oban to TobemorayLet me turn to the remainder of my passage to date. Leaving Kerrera I went to Tobermory through the Sound of Mull. This is a beautiful part of Scotland, I would love to stay longer, but could only spare two days. The moorings there are swinging; a total of 23 not 8 as stated in the pilot. even then, you need to be prepared to put the hook down! I have heard they charge you for putting the hook down!!!The cottages on the sea front remind me of Craoba Marina with there colourful painted fronts. The Harbourmaster here was very helpful bringing me a copy of the weather synoptic charts.

June Monday 10th Tobemoray to Armadale (Isle of Sky)I had been warned about rounding the Point of Ardnamurchan, so out came the Admiralty Tidal Atlas (I think they are the best). I slipped my mooring at 1015 cleared the inner passage off Ardnamurchan Lighthouse at 1230 on a flat sea in Force 3 arriving at Armadale on Skye at 1720.

Jalina rounding Ardnamurchan to earn her bunch of heather

It had been a really good sail under full main and No 2 jib. The mountains looked beautiful there was so much to see and with no one in sight; this is a magnificent cruising ground although I was beginning to develop a feeling of isolation.

Armadale is a small bay exposed to any easterlies the forecast was for south-westerlies. As I picked up the mooring I could hear the faint sound of bagpipes, reminding me that I was really in Scotland. The piper was playing for tourists disembarking from the ferry from Mallaig, across the Sound of Sleet.

June Tuesday 11th Armadale to Kyleakin / MallaigDuring the night the wind went round to the east and increased to Force 4. I had to get out of there and quick as I had a rock-face just 30m astern.

My intention that day was to sail down to Kyleakin via the Kyle Rhea, a narrow gap between Skye and the Scottish mainland. With 10kt tides I approached with some reservation as there are no bolt-holes to dive into. When the wind increased to Force 5 I decided to abandon the passage and beat into Mallaig. Mallaig is situated to the opposite side of the Sound of Sleet to Armadale Bay. It was a wise decision as the wind continued to increase in strength; the forecast had been Force 3.

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Mallaig Harbour with Isles of Rhum and Eigg in the background

The Harbourmaster in Malliag was really great and could not have been more helpful, guiding me onto a swinging mooring for the night. During my stay he also provided me with a 5 day weather forecast.

After a shower at the Seaman’s Mission for £1 I spent two nights in Mallaig as yet another front passed through.

June Thursday 13th Mallaig to Kyleakin I slipped my lines at 1230 and was soon at the entrance to the Kyle Rhea taking only 20 minutes to pass through. I tied up on the public pontoon at Kyleakin on Skye and it was free! That night I was visited by two otters who ate a crab on the pontoon – they have terrible table manners! I had to clear up the mess.

Jalina coming through the Kyle Rhea

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I had been watching the weather again and was not happy with what was developing. I had about two days to get to Lochinver, the second but one stop before rounding Cape Wrath. I had to reach a safe haven as I felt Kyleakin was exposed. Force 6 was forecast for the next day, but I had to go. It would be south-westerly and on the port quarter, the next port would be Loch Shieldaig a small Loch off Loch Gairloch.

June Friday 14th Kyleakin I.O. Skye to Loch Gairloch (Loch Shieldaig)I left Kyleakin with some sadness as it brought back many happy memories of the past camping and walking in the Cullins. I slipped at 0700, near low water, care had to be taken to clear the shoal waters as I passed under the new Skye bridge.

Sky bridge

The wind was rising so a slab was put in the main – ‘do it when you think of it’ I said to myself! By the way, it is light at 0300 here until 2300. The passage went well until I closed on Loch Gairloch, as I changed course to enter the loch the wind increased to Force 7. ‘Come on’ I said, ’this is what you do best’ as I beat with 3 reefs in the main and a slab in the No2 jib. She went like a train as water streamed down her decks and over the apray-hood. It took about an hour to reach shelter in the corner of Shieldaig Bay, where I anchored. Here the wind was about Force 2.

Shieldaig Bay

Two main anchors are carried aboard Jalina; one a 25lb CQR with 60ft chain, the other an 18lb Danforth, also with 60ft chain, and four 50m rode warps. There is also a 12lb Bruce kedge which is always for use in the aft locker, and bent on! I will tell you more later about how I anchor from the stern. Well, it was a good anchorage and she held well after I had driven her in under power. After a look at the weather, I was far from being a happy man.

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I was in something of a bind. I called the Coastguard but the reception was very poor on VHF and my mobile phone would not pick up a signal so I fell back on the SSB to get a weather forecast. I had only the following day to reach a safe haven and the front may come through early, I know I should be safe here in Shieldaig but the incoming front looks deep and could last for days.

June Saturday 15th Loch Gairloch to Loch InverI was up next morning at 0330 preparing to leave. I had a good breakfast, washed, shaved, prepared a sandwich, prepared charts and a passage plan for the Coastguard, all was ready a reef in the main – just in case, I took the 0535 shipping forecast. I also wanted the Stornoway CG forecast at 0610, but would I get a signal? I called them early but the signal was poor so I decided to set sail and call them at sea. As I cleared the loch visibility was poor in thick mist and rain. I felt that I must be crazy, but this was better than being pinned down by the approaching bad weather. I called the Coastguard again this time the reception was good. They gave me a full run-down on the weather forecast; Force 5, poor visibility, sea-state slight to moderate, locally rough then I gave my passage plan.

Setting sun Loch Inver

The coast was invisible as I sailed on. At 1010 the Coastguard transmitted the approaching bad weather warning, by which time I was sailing in bright sunshine in a Force 3, but with a falling barometer. I was within 3 hours of a 100% safe haven and 30 miles from Cape Wrath. Care had to be taken in entering Lochinver as there is a dog-leg in the passage between rocks, I was tied up on the visitors pontoon by 1520. Within 12 hours all the sea areas to the west, from SE Iceland to Biscay, had been given a gale warning of up to Force 10 and within 24 hours we had to double up our lines to cleats on the opposite side of the pontoon. With a fetch of only 200ft, spray from the windward side of the pontoon was clearing the top of our cockpits and sprayhoods.

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Jalina with double warps Loch Inver

I was thankful to be in a safe haven. This is a hostile part of the country with its rocky coastline at the same time it is magnificent. What does help are the people, such as the harbour masters, who are often the Lifeboat Coxswains of the local lifeboat, and the fishermen who offer help and advise.

Well, today is Monday and it looks as though I’m pinned down until Thursday.

Just one more thing which made me smile. I met one of the lifeboat crew today. He is a Frenchman from Brittany who lives in Lochinver and owns the local pub.

June Friday 21st Loch Inver to KinlochbervieThe CG on 20th JUNE gave a weather forecast of S 3-4 backing SE 4-5 locally 6 with the following 24 hours the same, I decided to go for KINLOCHBERVIE 22 miles to the north this being my last port before rounding Cape Wrath.21st June it was overcast the wind was NE I slipped my lines at 0420 care had to be taken on clearing the outer Loch as a number of covered rocks had no buoys to mark them, clear of these I hoisted full main and No2 jib.The wind was now on the stb quarter F4, the coastline was grey and shrouded in mist.The 5 day delay in Loch Inver has caused me to miss the neap tides to get in and out of Stromness on the Orkney’s, yes! I know it can all be done in spring tides, but it’s the difference in some parts to 4 knots and 12, so from Kinlochbervie I may well go to Scrabster and not straight to Stromness.By 0915 I entered the entrance of Loch Inchard a little further to port is Kinlochbervie a large fishing port built with EU money, here I tied up against the HM range patrol boat called Nimrod, Jamie the HM assisted me with my lines, being early he suggested a full breakfast at the Fishermans Mission would be good for my soul !

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Fishing boats in Loch Inver

After the good breakfast and hopefully an improved soul I called at Jamie’s office for any advice he could offer on rounding Cape Wrath, “there is no firing tomorrow” he stated, charts were spread out on his desk and fingers were pointed to rocks on and around the Cape, “you can keep close in but avoid that rock, you can even go on the inside” no Jamie I have pushed my luck so far, ”I will go to the north side of that one” I said, “ then be careful the tide does not sweep you onto it” he said.

If only it was all as easy as eating that big breakfast, the remainder of the day was spent preparing Jalina for her next passage, charts sorted, tidal atlas made up, sandwiches prepared, clearing lines worked out, a check round all the rigging and safety lines, CG weather report was WSW 5-6 occasional rain and showers, vis moderate to good locally poor, this looked good what I need is a good blow, Stromness was looking a possibility, so to bed by 20.00 alarm set for 03.00 for a 04.00 start.

June Saturday 22nd Kinlochbervie to Scrabster

Departing Kinlochbervie a beam reach

I slipped at 04.00 cleared Kinlochbervie and entered Lochincard and into the open North Atlantic and its long swell, the weather was overcast grey and cold the wind was SW and picking up, all looked good for the passage, could we make Stromness in time we were now doing nearly 5 knots.As we closed on Cape Wrath the sea state was moderate SW 4-5, with clearing bearings ready we tucked in quite close, I could now see the swell breaking over the outer rocks, a quick check with the compass confirmed them to be so, I passed well clear to the north of the rocks.

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Rounding Cape Wrath

As I cleared the Cape I signed off with Stornoway CG and signed on with Aberdeen, I suddenly felt a little lonely, “where is everybody I shouted” no reply, with my nearest shelter some miles away I was joined by a large school of Dolphins, they were quite big, I started slapping the water, not difficult with such a low freeboard, this seemed to wind them up, with most of them leaping out of the water, and others squeaking.

The wind was backing to SE 4-5 and a speed of 4.5 knots, during the passage the CG put out a forecast of poor visibility and heavy rain so I decided to go for Scrabster as the Bay there would provide shelter as I closed on the Harbour, Stromness would be exposed to the Southerly’s.Visibility soon went down to about quarter of a mile, as I closed in on Scrabster Bay the heavens opened up with really heavy rain visibility got even worse, I was asked to hold back from entering the port by the HM as a Russian coaster was about to depart, the P&O ferry St Ola had just come in.

As I came into the second Basin the HM was there with his assistant to direct me and take my lines to moor against the harbour wall next to the fishing boats, a very kind gesture considering just how hard it was raining, he also directed me to where I could get a hot shower, it was now 16.00, the day had gone well Jalina had given her best, we were both very wet!The next day I visited the Lifeboat “Queen Mother” and her crew, the weather looked good for a crossing to the Orkney’s and Stromness, as I walked back to Jalina the HM pulled up in his pickup “jump in” he said “I’ll show you the charts and have a word”, in his office he went through the passage I planned along the west coast of Hoy and into Hoy Sound to Stromness, I thanked him for his help and support, “call the Captain of the St Ola for a report to Hoy Sound”, “Yes” I said and thanked him.

After preparing to leave Scrabster I did call the St Ola on Ship to Ship Ch 12, “the conditions there are fair” he said. So at 11.00 I slipped my lines cleared the harbour and hoisted the main with one reef and No2 jib, it was a bright sunny day with a number of yachts milling about in the bay, the wind was SW 5-6 with occasional showers with a moderate sea state.

We were now two days from the top of the spring tides, the passage tidal vector prepared and clearing bearings prepared for the crossing, allowing for the strong ebb off Dunnet Head was 027deg my rhum line being 000 deg, it was the 23rd June my plan was to stay in Stromness for a few days then to make my way down Scapa

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Flow and through the Pentland Firth, but more detail would be put together once I have gained local knowledge from the HM in Stromness.

June Sunday 23rd Scrabster to Stromness (Orkney’s)As I left Scrabster there was quite a big swell running, as I cleared Dunnet Head the swell eased, I decided to go, two reefs in the main and full jib, I could sail with full main but I had to keep Jalina’s speed down to 4.5 knots, the wind eased to 3-4, by 13.30 we were abeam of Tor Ness the most Southern part of Hoy.

‘Old Man of Hoy’ in the centre

We were now 20 minutes ahead I eased the main 3.8 knots, the sea state eased Rora Head we were now close to Hoy Sound, we were on time the cloud covering the Hoy and the sea birds was magnificent, with the afternoon sun shining onto the red stone it was all worth the concern.

Cloud covering Hoy

The Old Man of Hoy standing with the red background of the rock. We arrived to the entrance of Hoy Sound on time, the crab pots said so, the first of the flood had started 3.5 miles to go to the entrance to Stromness, we were now being swept down, 10 minutes to the entrance, within 30 minutes it would be very difficult to get in, by 17.30 we were tied up against the East Pier amongst the fishing boats.

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Jalina tied up in Stromness

When mooring against these harbour walls I use a “chum” or “angel” weight slid down the fore or aft main outer mooring lines, this tightens the line and keeps you up against the wall, this also reduces the fore and aft motion.A running line with a block on the mast as used when drying out will do the same.

The next day or two gave me the opportunity to service the Yanmar GM10, the filter and oil changed including the gearbox oil, I do this every 100 hours although the book says every 200 hours, the tension of the alternator belt was checked, sea water filter and oil level are checked each day. I never like using Jalina’s engine except for entering and leaving harbour but there are occasions we have to catch a tide particularly if safety comes into the equation so the engine is only used at fairly low revs, to date the fuel consumption is over 4 hours to the gallon.I also decided to flush out my fresh water tank and refill using liquid Milton to sterilise the contents.The day after arriving at Stromness I met a fellow sailor called Len Wilson the owner of an Orkney Yole a canoe stern with a twin masted spritsail rig with a very quick turn of speed. Len was giving lessons to young adults at the Marine Academy opposite to where I was tied up, he told me he had built the Yole “Graemsay” himself, he then invited me to go out for a sail with him in the bay, it was quite exciting for all the distance I had sailed and places visited this was quite different and took me back to my dinghy sailing, I would love to build a craft like this.Back to reality, my plan was to slip on the 27 th but the forecast was a gale 8 all along the NE coast of the UK, so my plan to sail for the Pentland Firth was postponed , but the forecast to sail to Long Hope a good staging point to leave for the Pentland was good and I would be in sheltered waters.With my plans, I set of to visit the HM John Banks to ask his thoughts and advice, again fingers were pointed at charts advise given by him and absorbed by myself, I thanked him for his advise.

June Friday 28th Stromness to Longhope (Hoy)On the 28th June at 10.00 I slipped my lines from Stromness and headed South down Scapa Flow just of Spring tide by 12.30 after a spirited sail my lines were taken by eager helpers I was soon secured to the new quay wall in Long Hope, it was clear they do not get many visitors, “we were expecting you one said” yes I thought John Banks bush telegraph.

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The new harbour Longhope Hoy and Jalina

Within an hour of sorting my lines and organising Jalina I was introduced to Angus, clad in divers gear, he’s the assistant Coxswain of the Long Hope lifeboat I was driven to Aith Hope a small Loch further south, to visit the old lifeboat and station which is now a museum was opened in May by Princess Ann.Angus then took me to the new RNLI Lifeboat Station close to Jalina, with it’s large observation window overlooking the bay of Long Hope, a little later I was introduced to Jack the Lifeboats mechanic a German married to a Scottish girl, I found out later he had been watching me sail into the bay and was pleased to see I was wearing a lifejacket and my roving safety harness.Terry Joyce a retired rigger and keen sailor came and chatted to me at the quay he invited me to meet his friends at the local water hole where Terry invited me to visit his home to enjoy an evening meal with himself and his wife Ethel. I was given such a warm welcome with many stories passed around the table, I was made to feel very much at home.

Ethel told me Keith one of her sons is the Coxswain of the Long Hope Lifeboat but was at present away with a crew collecting a Lifeboat from Eyemouth on the east coast and would not be back for several days. Ethel then informed that she lost her first husband in the Long Hope Lifeboat tragedy in 1969 when all of the men perished.

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Bronze Memorial to the lost Lifeboatmen

Ethel later took me down to the cemetery to show me their graves and life size bronze memorial of a Lifeboatman, I felt very subdued that day, just how this tragedy affected this small community does not bear thinking of, it still effects me deeply when I think of it, especially having been part of this warm and welcoming community.After our meal Ethel took me to look over the Pentland Firth as I was not happy with the forecast SE 6-7 with fog patches. The next 24 hours being NW backing SE 3-4 then backing S 4-5 vis good, we went first to the highest point we were looking at the back of the swell there were big white tops, hell, I thought what would it be like in a gale! we then went to Catterick LH a point I would round when leaving Long Hope and heading west to Aith Hope, that was no better, Ethel said “you have gone quite Roger” I returned to Jalina to prepare for a possible departure the next day.With all preparations made I went to bed, I did not sleep too well, it was this Pentland Firth bit! Looking out of the hatch the next morning it was thick fog and raining heavily, so I decided it was off “reprieved” I thought. It did not take long before I had several smiling faces looking over the quay to me, “ bottled out then “ said one, “engine trouble” said another. Terry said “we didn’t think you would take the risk, we have organised the day for you a trip around Hoy and a meal with us this evening” he said. After this day with my new friends I knew from the forecast NW backing SE 3-4 backing S 4-5 with good vis I would have to take the window of weather, I would leave the next morning, it was sad to say our farewells, I had been shown such friendship and made so welcome in this small community.

June Sunday 30th Longhope(Hoy) to Wick.The next morning the weather was true to it’s forecast, I have decided to introduce you to “Duck” he has kept me dry through some quite heavy seas, he is 2” Duck tape which I use to seal up the main hatch and lockers, I also tape up the bottom

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washboard, this would mean if the cockpit was awash the saloon should keep dry, the other washboards would be fitted if necessary and tied in.

My passage plan was to round Catterick hd LH and head west close to the shore taking the last of the west going tide to Aith Hope, a small Loch facing the Pentland Firth, then sail due south at slack water then SE between the Islands Swona and Strona and then catch the new east going flood to take me down to Duncansby Hd.

We cleared Catterick Hd and headed west, we encountered some overfalls some were quite violent, what would the Firth be like I thought! I had full main and working jib, the wind at first as expected was off the shore I knew by midday it would be SE 4-5 yes! on the nose when I clear Duncansby Hd, we were now at Aith Hope a check with my watch and of we went due south too late to turn back now. As I looked back to Aith Hope far in the distance on the hill I could see a lone figure leaning on a white car, could it be Terry or Ethel, later it turned out Terry was watching me with bino’s making sure I was safe. The tide had turned I could see the sea boiling ahead, I checked my harness, I had visions of white water rafting, was this to be a tea party or a rough brawl, by now I had spray covering the bottom half of the main with the odd lump in the cockpit, Jalina was being pushed where she did not want to go, a tanker took my attention for a few moments, a slight change in heading and all was well. With my waterproofs well wet and water streaming down the deck my friend “Duck” was doing a good job, Duncansby Hd was soon cleared with my next course set for Wick the wind had now set in the SE and the top end of 5 it was a beat down the coast it now started to rain heavily, I did not mind, the water running down the decks Jalina was now doing what she does best, beating, in a heavy sea, and we were now in the north sea clear of the Pentland Firth, she had kept me safe and did not bang once in the seas. By 1600 we were tied up in Wick fishing harbour, we were now on the way home, I’m sure weather conditions could not be worse from now on!!!The following day on departing Wick I looked back at Hoy in the distance with some sadness, yes! I had made good friends there.

July Monday 1st Wick to WhitehillsI left Wick harbour the next day on the 1st July still rather damp from the previous day, what I needed was a dry sunny day to dry both me and “Jalina” out.The sky was overcast on leaving Wick, the weather forecast was SSE F4-5 loc6 winds, I decided to cross the Moray Firth to a small fishing harbour called Whitehills a passage of approximately 50 miles, I called Aberdeen CG with my passage plan, within two hours of slipping my lines at Wick the wind had gone round to the SSW, the passage would now be a fetch I did in fact set a course a little east of my Rhum line just in case the wind went round to the SSE. The passage went well and without event arriving at Whitehills at 1700.

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Whitehills Marina

Whitehills harbour marina is small and fine for the average size yacht, for bigger ones the hammer heads are used, there is a high harbour wall giving very good protection in all weathers, but the entrance is exposed to the NW to NE winds, access is all states of the tide with all the usual services available.

As the forecast for the next day was to be hot and sunny I was not going to miss the opportunity to dry out “Jalina”, and me! All the sail bags were spread out along the pontoon, hatches open, washing done and dried! That day I enjoyed the sun for the first time in weeks I felt dry, at last was this a break in the bad wet weather!

While drying out at Whitehills I took the opportunity to top up the fuel tank, stock up with vitualls, wash my waterproofs with fresh water, and give Jalina a good clean. The decision to stay two nights ment I could get rested and have a good lie in.

July Wednesday 3rd Whitehills to PeterheadMy next passage would be to Peterhead a busy port with a fairly new marina, feeling much rested and armed with a good weather forecast W3 – 4 veering NWN 4 – 5 vis moderate to good sea state slight to moderate – “my goodness things are looking up I thought”, I slipped my lines at 0415 cleared the entrance, I felt free again!

The passage went well, as I approached the Port of Peterhead I cleared with the Port Control for permission to enter by 1140 I was tied up in this very protected marina. It is quite noticeable how shallow the waters are in the north sea and they are shorter and steeper – “lets not get complacent” I thought, the east coast has a habit of springing sand banks when you don’t expect them.

I decided to stay in Peterhead only one night as the weather forecast the next day was N3-4 backing NW2-3 and I had the afternoon to prepare, the day had been warm and sunny I was feeling great. I enjoy cooking on board from casseroles to fish; I found it important to eat plenty of carbohydrates to keep up the energy level plus salads and vegetables.

July Thursday 4th Peterhead to Stonehaven.From Peterhead I decided my next passage would be to Stonehaven rather then Aberdeen, I had heard this small fishing harbour had been dredged but only close to the harbour walls as this had been done by a JCB!I slipped my lines at Peterhead at 0830, the tide today would start to ebb at 0500 to take me down to Stonehaven but as it was neaps I decided to have a sleep in having gone to bed at 2100. I logged in with Aberdeen CG to give them my passage plan.

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As I cleared the entrance the sea was calm with a SW3 wind not quite the forecast ‘Jalina’ had full main and No2 Genoa, we were soon pacing at over 5 knots, the sea starting to build the wind was building now to F5 – not the forecast! I decided to change the foresail down to No1 Jib and put a reef in the main.Although a beat all the way it was a good day in full sunshine, on entering the harbour I was immediately taken by the beauty of the landscape “this is heaven” I thought and decided to stay two nights, tying up on the wall at 1930.

A storm gathering over Stonehaven

The day before I left Stonehaven in planning my next passage I considered to go either to Montrose or Arbroath both poised access problems in timing and restrictions in exit so I decided to go to bed early 2000 and leave Stonehaven very early for Eyemouth this small fishing harbour has access 24h. This passage would be over 60 miles, the weather forecast was NNW2-3 veering SSW3-4 vis good.At this point it was a change of chart folios, charts prepared, passage plan prepared, sandwiches and flask prepared, I had also bought some fresh fruit and as a treat – cherry cake! The entrance to Eyemouth is strewn with rocks so I prepared clearing lines to help just in case I was entering in building seas!

July Saturday 6th Stonehaven to Eyemouth.I rose at midnight, by 0050 I had cleared the harbour entrance and the rocky headland, then setting a course of 183 even though it was just after midnight. The sky was light with the northern halo showing quite bright, the wind was light with the sea birds complaining as I disturbed there sleep. I was joined by a school of dolphins I could see them by the effervescence darting back and forth along side me and under ‘Jalina’ - I was not alone. I was pleased to feel the early morning sun warming through my waterproofs, by 0900 I could see the Isle of May to Stbd the sky was bright red, by 1000 I spotted St Abbs Head, the wind was now picking up we were now doing over 5knots. The approach into Eyemouth harbour has to be done with care 174 deg in transit with the leading light or two orange posts as the sides to the approach have rocks with little tolerance. As I entered the harbour I was greeted by a lifeboat crewmember who assisted me with my lines to tie up against the harbour wall, it was 1400. To my surprise it was the open day for the RNLI.I was made very welcome by the HM at Eyemouth there was a definite change in the weather so I stayed two nights enjoying a rare meal out and a sleep in,the following day was taken up in preparation for the passage to Blythe a distance of 60 miles I was hoping to call at the Farne Islands and if possible anchor off, the weather forecast from the CG was SE5 backing SSW4-5 sea state slight to moderate – “well it could be worse I thought”, the isobars on the synoptic chart showed a higher wind force, I decided to use my friend “Duck” for this passage, so the hatch was closed and taped up, all preparation complete early to bed after setting the alarm for 0400.

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July Monday 8th Eyemouth to Blythe.The following morning was overcast, a holding line onto the access steps to the wall then all lines released my “Angel” put away, with a little mist hanging in the harbour I slipped out at 0440, it was now slack water the flood would take me down to wards Blythe.Several local fishing boats were making there way through the narrow entrance; I could see to my Std the North Cardinal guarding the rocks to the east and north of the entrance, clear of this we headed east then south setting a course east of the Farne Islands – I still felt the wind would get up and if in the SE I would not be able to stay at anchor there. By 0630 visibility had improved I could see the LH to Berwick-On-Tweed breakwater to the SW, by 0800 I could see Holy Island. The wind had been slowly increasing and the sea was whipping up quite rough; by 1000 the wind was rising to the top end of F5 a second reef was put into the main and a slab in the No2 Jib the F5 had come early.I decided to bear away to clear the Farne Islands two miles to the east for deeper water. 1030 and the wind was rising with a steeper sea it was now F6 and rising, I now had quit heavy green water running along the deck it was coming over the spray hood, but “Jalina” was beating up well to wind.The wind was now well above F6 as I put in the third reef two mid sail battens shot out with the shear force of the whipping sail, under way again with even more water coming over the hood there was now a problem of the heavy water damaging the wind generator, so the hood had to be dropped and lashed down the cockpit drains were just coping and I was very wet, but she was cutting up well to wind and making good our course and “Duck” was doing a good job!By 1400 the wind eased to F5, by 1600 to F4 all the reefs shaken out I put the Autopilot on and made a hot drink, down below was snuff dry “Duck” had again been a good crew! In wet conditions like today I use kitchen towel across the chart to soak up water from my waterproof’s sleeves. By 1530 I could see the wind generators to entrance to Blythe. When approaching Blythe harbour care has to be taken to clear the rocks “The Pigs” “The Sow” and “Seaton rocks to east, I was tied up by 1730 and given a very warm welcome by the RNYC, the club has some very good facilities being situated in an old wooden lighthouse ship.

July Wednesday 10th Blythe to Hartlipool.The passage down to Hartlepool was a short leg of 36 miles in a SW3-4 under full main and No2 Genoa, the weather was certainly improving, access to Hartlepool Marina is through a lock HW+ - 5 via a dredged channel 0.8 below CD.

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Departing Blythe Harbour

I was looking forward to the next passage to Whitby as years ago I use to go there to buy freshly smocked kippers. I must tell you a story of an incident that happened to a friend I met while at Blythe, this friend has a Van De Stat designed ketch called “Kes” approx 30 feet long, if you can imagine the scenario a large open area of water to the front of the visitors pontoon with a high wooden landing stage 30 feet high, as he stepped off her he tripped and caught the throttle (he still had the main up) “Kes” set off at a good pace in a circle she was now on her third lap around the marina her mast healing over as she went, a man on the landing stage seeing this problem waited for her to come past and pumped on the top of the main and like a chute was promptly delivered to the deck and took over the helm !!!! And that’s the truth. July Thursday 11th Hartlepool to Whitby.While in Hartlepool my friend Mike skipper of “Kes” asked if we could sail in company to Whitby the next day; the forecast was SW 2-3 loc4 we slipped at 0745 through the lock, (-4 HW Dover) the day started overcast the wind SW2-3 sea state slight, I had full main and No2 Genoa the passage was a lazy pace with Autohelm on, the kettle was soon on. For the first time I stripped off my waterproofs and put on a tee shirt and sun block!By 1230 we were abeam of Runswick Bay, the entrance to Whitby was soon in sight care has to be taken as it shoals to the sides of the entrance. Once inside the channel is narrow tying up on the town quay to the Stb to wait for the bridge to open, with all the people looking over the quay I was feeling the intrusion of people, for nearly three months I had only occasionally met the odd person. We were soon tied up on the long pontoon,

The rising sun over Whitby

I spent several days in Whitby my Mum visiting me for two days, I had been suffering with aching limbs and feeling sore I found in the past this is due to dehydration the weather had got warmer I had not been compensating for the heavy perspiration, within two days I had corrected this by drinking 2-3 litres of water a day.

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Captain Cooks HM Bark ‘Endeavour’ at Whitby

I had enjoyed my break in Whitby it brought back childhood memories I was to leave the next day with my next passage and port being Bridlington a drying harbour.I worked out I would have enough water if I slip at 0700 charts prepared, and I had bought several litres of orange juice and bottled water.

July Tuesday 16th Whitby to Bridlington.I had cleared the North Cardinal by 0745 and set a course for Bridlington, the wind was light F2 by 1100 we were off Filey Brigg arriving off Bridlington at 1550 three hours too early as it is a drying harbour so I dropped anchor in the bay to wait for the flood, it was very hot with full sun I made myself a nice salad with a tin of salmon enjoyed some fruit and orange juice, I also took the opportunity to prepare my passage for the next day to Spurn Point at the moth of the Humber.

I had considered going into Grimsby but it presented exit problems Spurn Point offers no shelter from NW to SE and I would have to anchor. I also prepared a plan for the VTS Humber whom I would have to contact as I approach the Humber and give them my intentions. If the weather conditions were good I also planned to sail direct to Lowestoft approx 160 miles, this was considered because the only shelter was either the Humber or Lowestoft, the density of shipping in this area had also to be considered and I was feeling well rested.By 1900 I was rafted up in Bridlington harbour, here it dries out at low water but you sink completely into the mud so you have to take the precaution of shutting off all sea cocks not forgetting the engine water intake. As a precaution I carry four spare gallons of diesel plus four empty one gallon containers, the forecast for the next day was variable 1-3 vis good so I decided to fill two extra cans just in case.

July Wednesday 17th Bridlington to Spurn Point (Humber).The next morning I cleared the entrance at 0800 visibility was poor a flat sea and not a breath of wind, I’m sure the mist would burn off by midday, by 1000 it was thick fog and still no wind. Within 4-5 hours I would close on the Humber and all the traffic, I

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decided to give it until 1200 if it was still poor visibility I would anchor off Spurn Point for the night and not risk crossing the Humber.By 1200 things were no better, I decided to change course and close the shore for the Humber entrance, 1330 the fog cleared a little but not enough, it could easily drop again as the day cooled, the wind had picked up to F3.

Approaching Spurn Point

I called Humber CG and informed them of a change in passage plan, I then called VTS Humber Ch16-67 and informed them of my approach, they said they had monitored my approach and contact with CG, they put your boat name on the monitor, I gave them my plan for my approach on arrival and anchoring in Spurn Point.

AlI seemed fine on my approach I had checked the chart for sand banks, visibility was improving, on reaching the north entrance buoys I changed course due west for my approach to Spurn Point, I was called by VTS and asked “do you like building sandcastles” they said the last strong swell had deposited several new sandbanks, and advised me to bear a little south, they called me a little later and said I was clear.By 1745 I was anchored I called VTS to thank them for there help, I also took the opportunity to ask them for the best exit plan south to leave the Humber the next day, this provided, I then plotted my exit and passage plan for the next day to Lowestoft.

The last night at anchor had been an uncomfortable one, the morning brought good visibility and a forecast ENE 3-4 – I must have been a good boy! This passage was to be my longest 110 miles and a little eventful.

July Thursday 18th Spurn Point to Lowestoft via Wells.My anchor had held well in the heavy swell, it had been an uncomfortable night I had not slept very well, the swell had been made worse by the coming and going of the high speed pilot launches stationed on Spurn Point.

I cleared with VTS Humber with my passage plan to clear the Humber and it’s heavy shipping traffic, I informed the CG with of my passage plan to Lowestoft inc ETA a distance of 110miles. The weather forecast was ENE 3-4 with good visibility and not a cloud in sight.

My main concern for this passage was the concentration of shipping between Great Yarmouth and the Humber the shallows and sandbanks approaching G Yarmouth and Lowestoft, these are particularly dangerous with strong tides and overfalls, so I decided to time my arrival to navigate these at first daylight and neap tides.

Anchor lifted and stowed by 0600 with full main and No2 Jib; I set a course due south for Bull Sand Fort 210deg, then Haile Red can 193deg this cleared I made for Haile

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Sand red can 097deg, once there I signed off with VTS Humber 0830 thanked them for their support I pressed on setting a course for the Wash 128deg for Ross Spit red can.

With a moderate swell, the wind on the beam ‘Jalina’ was pushing on well a fair tide and 5knots, it was time to put on the Autopilot my faithful Simrad and then put the kettle on. While at Whitby my Mum visited me and brought me a big home made fruit cake so a good sized slice with a lump of cheese went down well.

It was my original plan to call at Wells next-the-sea but I had lost several days due to poor weather, I decided to anchor off Wells for several hours to catch the next flood and avoid being off Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft too early.

It was now 1230 having cleared North Docking a course was set for East Docking so to clear the Docking Shoal once clear I set a new course for Holkham Bay off Wells, sailing this dog leg would also keep me out of the shipping areas, plus if visibility was bad at night I could claw my way in the shallows off Cromer.

At this point I should mention my navigation is primly by EP, DR, Vectors, clearing lines and transits with GPS as a check, in this way I feel I am in control and not Uncle Sam!

I arrived at Wells at 1600 set my anchor in the Bay, the sun was shinning the sea state slight to moderate, my plan was to have a good meal and pack sandwiches for the night passage to Lowestoft. My meal complete I had a shave and a full wash down in the cockpit, next to try and rest for a while.

The CG was informed of my next stage of the passage, with full main and anchor stowed, next the No2 Jib hoisted (the No2 can be slab reefed) with the Autopilot on I set a course for Cromer. I then dressed for the night, a second layer was put on plus waterproofs, it was now 2000 the sun was going down in the west I could feel the first chill for the night.

I could see quite a lot of shipping plying their course too and from the Wash. Early in the night I had the company of a bright moon and the northern loom of light which was getting less bright as I sailed south.

Sun rising off Cromer

The shoal waters of the Norfolk coast is a mariners constant concern, two miles offshore and I was sailing in six meters, charts for these waters are often out of date when they are printed. Having cleared the coast of Cromer the first light was showing from the east, I was met by a group of small Whales I knew they were not Dolphins, I

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could just see their silhouette against the east light, it was shortly after sighting them one pushed against Jalina pushing her head by 40deg, right or wrong I decided I didn’t want to be some toy for some whales out on the town so I started up the engine, not for speed but in the hope the noise would put them off, they soon disappeared.

My next hazard I was approaching were the shoal waters north of Lowestoft, I was on time it was now 0500 with good light, the stream, set, rate, and drift was constantly changing Jalina’s course. I had also prepared a number of clearing lines for Lowestoft including the south cardinal near the entrance, I soon encountered some big overfalls and very strong currents.I decided to go through Barley Picle Channel, clear Corton east cardinal, round south Holm cardinal into Stanford channel, engine on and sails stowed I called Lowestoft port Control on Ch 14 I was given clearance to enter the Port. The wind being in the ENE there was quite a big swell serge as I entered the Port this is mainly due to the shallow water. All went well, under these circumstances the Port control asked other vessels not to leave so to give me the room to allow for the heavy swell. On entering the entrance to the marina is to your port, I was met by the berthing manager of the RNYC it was now 0830am dog tired, it had been one hell of a passage, I took in my ensign and crashed out in my bunk.I had booked into the RNYC for two nights mainly to catch up with lost sleep, there is plenty of sod out there without adding to it, and I was looking forward to a shower sorting my food and doing some on board cooking. I woke at 1200 sorted myself plus all the usual tasks on Jalina then went shopping for vitals for my evening lunch I make a chicken casserole, yogurt and strawberries then to bed by 2000hrs. My nights sleep was disturbed by the maroons going up mustering the Lifeboat crew at 0300; they went out to some divers who had got into difficulty, it turned out all was well with all the men, it was a case of engine trouble.It is on occasions like this you are reminded of the risks at sea, and with all the planning, pilots, charts, and all the care we can still get a good slap in the face, but then if all the risks were taken away life would become a bore.

I was now getting excited with the passage planning I felt it was becoming more demanding, the next passages down to Felixstowe and then the Thames Estuary both excite me and cause me to ask if I am becoming complacent.

The following day I spent some time sight seeing around Lowestoft, the weather was kind it was full sun, but I was not comfortable with all the crowds of people, it was all too noisy. I decided I would have lunch at the sailing club then spend the afternoon resting and making preparations for my departure to Felixtowe and Shotley Marina the next day.

July Sunday 21st Lowestoft to Felixstowe (Shotley Marina)My passage plan for the next day Sun 21st was prepared this included plotting the proposed course on two charts, checking for obstacles including shoal water, wrecks, overfalls. Marking position lines onto charts to check my position, total distance and ETA. Information such as tide times for primary and secondary ports, and marking up the tidal atlases.If shoal waters could be a problem then I calculate the depths for my ETA, but a quick way of doing this also is to check the depth at an accurate position before you close on the shoal area, I do this when closing on the entrance to harbours. Cardinal markers are accurate points to make a check, this can be prepared before hand, by

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either marking position lines and writing down their bearings, or its lat and long and using the GPS.

The weather forecast for the passage was NE-NW2-4 NW4-5 loc6 vis mod to good sea s slight to mod, this all looked good, I decided to dept the next day at 0400 for a favourable tide into the entrance at Felixtowe.

I had considered calling at either the river Ore or Woodbridge Haven, but I was short of time, I could dep from Shotley at any state of the tide, and in my case the last hour of the ebb from the river Orwell to get the new flood across the Thames Estuary.

Clearing Lowestoft harbour went well, the wind was W3-4 with full sail a course was set 211deg with a beam reach we soon were making 5knots, clearing E Barnard Cardinal, the morning grey and overcast visibility was one mile.By 0600 Southwold was abeam, I wanted to see the entrance as I do intend to come back soon, I then set a course 185 to clear Dunwick Bank and Sizewell Bank.

By 0700 the Sizewell power station and it’s large white dome could be seen through the mist. We were now doing 6knots over the ground, by 0800 we had cleared Orford Ness LH and set a course of 220deg to clear Whiting Bank and Cutter Bank. With the wind being Westerly I keep up towards the east side of the shoal areas so I can bear away should it shoal further due to moving sand banks, I had to bear away already once today when my depth alarm went off.Once clear of Cutter I called Harwich TVS Harbour Control, passed them my passage plan to enter the harbour, then proceeded to enter via the small ship channel once I had crossed the main channel. By 1030 we had entered the main harbour, I could see quite clearly the entrance to Shotley in the R Stour it’s dredged channel clearly marked by posts. There is a waiting pontoon to your port side, but in my case the Loch had been opened ready for myself and others to enter, by noon we were tied up in the Marina I then signed off with Yarmouth CG.

I was quite pleased with the days planning there is always room for improvement but I knew the next passage would be the acid test, but first a rest, then food, I made myself a fish salad had a shower, then enjoyed a pint sat overlooking this busy picturesque Harbour.

For the next day I enjoyed the walks along the R Orwell it was quiet and peaceful the weather was getting better by the day, subject to the weather forecast I planned to sail to Ramesgate on the 23rd July the next day. The forecast was WSW4 backing SW5-7 then veering NW4-5 vis good sea s slight to mod in open shoal waters, well, the SW5-7 I would expect it to be quite rough. The weather forecast should be fine giving me a reach SW5-7, veering NW4-5 later in the afternoon, to take me down round North Foreland to Ramsgate. If the wind should stay in the SW5-7 then I would close in on the North Foreland and sail under it’s lee, if it should go south then I’ll get a good beating as I did off the Farne islands!

July Tuesday 23rd Felixstowe to Ramsgate.The evening before leaving I spent in preparation and checking everything down to the last detail, I was not too happy with this F5-7 so just in case I sealed the hatch with my friend ‘Duck’, I rose at 0330 made all the final preparations, slipped my lines at 0430, it was overcast and the makings of a grey start, I called the loch master before slipping, the

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light to the loch was green to enter, we were soon clear. On leaving the outer loch, care had to be taken as it was the last hour to low water so to stay in the channel because of the cross stream in the river. Once clear of the channel mainsail hoisted a quick check on my navigation motoring light was on we headed for the small boat channel, I had already cleared with VTS Harbour Control and given my passage plan to the Yarmouth CG. I was beginning to feel the only place for me was at sea, the wind and sea water, the peace, when I start feeling like this I usually get kicked in the head!!!0530 we had cleared Landguard N Cardinal SW of the entrance, I then set a course SSE through the MEDUSA Channel, the tide was now on the make. The little swell running at present in the Medusa with it’s minimum depth of 2m did not cause any concern, we were now being pushed by the new flood.0600 we were clear of Stone Banks red buoy, the wind was picking up it was now F3, 0615 we cleared the Medusa G buoy, clear of the channel we changed course for Sunk Head Tower N Cardinal. 8 miles then we turn SSW for Black Deep and Fisherman’s Gat.0700 cleared the shoals of Gunfleet Sand, the wind was now W F4, the swell was increasing, the wind was on the stb quarter, 6 knots over the ground, the sky had cleared, it was bright and sunny.

0740 we cleared Sunk Head Tower N Cardinal then set a course down Black Deep for Fisherman’s Gat, we now had to harden up as we came round, it was going to be a fetch. I wanted to keep as high as I can in the channel in case of a wind shift. By 0830 wind had increased to W F7 the seas were now running down the deck and over the spray hood, 0900 I decided to drop the spray hood as too much sea water was hitting the wind generator.

A rising wind three reefs in the main crossing the Thames Estuary

At this point I was distracted by a coaster heading towards me from the stern, I called him on Ch12 he confirmed he would change course to leave me on my Stb. I was falling down off the wind in the channel, I was getting a cross set with the tide, 1000 I had enough depth to weather and turned to port into Fisherman’s Gat, care taken not to cut the corner, we bore away to a SSE course. 1115 cleared the Gat cutting across the shallow to the lee of the weather, ‘Jalina’ was being punished but all was well, I set a course of 150deg this allowed for the tide setting me south, we were early, 1230 cleared E Margate buoy. It would take another hour to reach North Foreland, we would be two hours early for slack water(1530).

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I decided to close up towards the cliffs of N Foreland to beat up in the shallow water, the wind had now backed to the SW F6-7 it had not eased much I settled in for a good thrash up to Ramsgate. 1400 I was abeam of Broadstairs LH 4knots over the ground – not too bad I thought! By 1600 I reached the entrance to Ramsgate. After contacting VTS Harbour Control I was asked to wait for an incoming ferry, here again there is a strict small ships channel to the south of the entrance, to the SW of this is very shallow as could be seen by the breaking water. By 1630 we were tied up in this very sheltered harbour, the passage had gone well. I could have hoisted the No2 Genoa but then I would have arrived at North Foreland at the height of the foul. Jalina had performed well with some quite big sharp seas she had not banged once, but I must admit she was very wet with a lot of green sea down the deck. Well! we are now in the English Channel.

Ramsgate Harbour

When I entered Ramsgate harbour I was feeling a little sad that I was now in the English Channel, now only a short distance from my home port.I spent two days in Ramsgate, the weather was perfect, dry warm and sunny, I took the opportunity to explore this Royal harbour and it’s town. The bars and cafés have a very continental air, with their open frontages, the people in summer clothes relaxing at tables in the open, I could not believe this was a part of England.

With the weather now being so sunny and warm I decided salads were in and casseroles out, while in the town I replenished my stores with fresh fruit, salads, and ham enough in all to last three days. I had heard Dover was poor for shopping, and Eastbourne was good where there are a number of large stores on the Marina site.

July Friday 26th Ramsgate to Dover.I have really enjoyed the past two days in Ramsgate, the summer air, the relaxing, a chance to catch up with my notes, and time to prepare my short passage to Dover and the longer one to Eastbourne.

It was some years ago that I last left the port of Dover, I left on a delivery job to the Hamble. The weather forecast for this short leg of 25 miles was WNW 2-3 to SW 4-5 good visibility, so all being well it would be a reach – things are looking up!This passage would take me via the Goodwin Sands, a notorious graveyard for many sea-going vessels. My general plan would be to navigate the Goodwin through the Gull Stream channel via South Brake red can then onto Deal Bank red can.

The evening prior to my departure I made up the tidal Atlas, worked out several clearing bearings to avoid Cross Ledge shallows and Drake shallows. Although my planned route had adequate depth of water, with cross-tidal streams it is easy to

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stray off the plotted rhum line, and put yourself on one of the shallows with the consequences of a falling tide.

The morning of departure was a little misty, this would soon burn off with the early warmth of the sun, 0715 I cleared my exit plan with Ramsgate Port Control, and passed my passage plan to Dover CG. My exit was via the small ships channel to the south of the harbour entrance. I continued along this channel to No4 red can buoy, then I set a course for South Brake red can buoy.

The wind was a gentle SW F2-3 the forecast was correct, with full main and No2 Genoa we were making six knots over the ground. By 0845 I was abeam of Deal Bank red can, and by 0930 I was preparing to enter Dover harbour whom I called on ch 74 with sail stowed and prepared we were given permission to enter the harbour through the eastern entrance. I was instructed to enter the outer harbour as far as the north cardinal marker, on reaching this I was given permission to proceed to the tidal inner harbour adjacent to Granville Dock.

I had decided to leave early the following morning so 24hr access or exit suited my plans, care has to be taken when approaching the tidal harbour near low water, so it is wise to contact the harbour master. While tied up in this harbour that evening, a German visitor entered at great speed only to end up with a very red face.Dover harbour is a good and safe harbour to enter with plenty of room to sort yourself out once within the outer harbour.

July Saturday 27th Dover to Eastbourne.The passage to Eastbourne the next day looked fairly straightforward, to Dungeness should be fine; but then on, there are several obstacles inshore, unless you step out to sea, I decided I would set a course from Dungeness to Bexhill Reef red can, then a course north of Royal Sovereign Shoals to the harbour entrance.

The forecast for the next day was SW4 locally 5 backing SSE2-3 with fog patches, so all looked good, I’m sure the fog patches will burn off quite early before I reach Dungeness. I gave my passage plan to Dover CG, and cleared with Dover port control, I slipped my lines by 0515 and cleared the entrance by 0520. I waited until I had cleared the entrance before hoisting full main and No2 Genoa, the wind was very light SWF2-3 it was on the nose, if the forecast was to be correct it should go round into the south with some east in it.

By 0620 the tide was setting West at least I could lee-bow it and get some help, I could stay on this course as far as the shipping lane then change tack. 0710 put on breakfast, porridge oats and sultana’s made up like concrete, orange juice, this could be a long day of tacking. As I closed on Folkstone there were a several yachts all motor sailing. The wind was now coming round a little to the south it was now a steady beat to Dungeness.

By 1000 I was abeam of Dungeness, the heavy mist had cleared the wind was SSWF2-3 it was now a fetch to Eastbourne. The sun was out in full, with a gentle breeze and a flat sea, the only hazards further out to sea were the crab pot markers – dozens of them.

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I arrived at Sovereign harbour Eastbourne at 1700, there are shallows to the north of the entrance, with two green cans guarding these shallows as you enter. To enter the marina you have to go through a lock, the facilities are very good but all a little clinical for me and noisy.

July Monday 29th Eastbourne to Brighton.I decided to depart for Brighton Marina the next day, I slipped through the lock at 0500, notified Dover CG of my passage plan. I have found the Coast Guard very friendly they often want to chat about my passage, ‘Jalina’ and how far I have sailed, they have even offered to call home.0550 cleared Beachy Head LH, at this point I noticed the old earlier LH they had moved high up on the cliff top. 0800 cleared Newhaven harbour entrance, I had closed in on this entrance to have a look for future pilotage.

By 0930 I prepared Jalina as we closed on Brighton harbour, main and foresail stowed, lines and fenders prepared. I am told there is now a deeper dredged channel to the port side of the entrance, knowing friends have gone aground at the entrance in the past, I entered with great care eventually tying up on the visitor’s pontoon.I would site down this my last evening of my circumnavigation and plan the final stage of my passage.

I’m feeling rather sad ‘Jalina’ and I have been together for over three months, I have been well cared for by this good lady, we have both coped quite well with all that has been thrown at us. My plan tomorrow our last day is through the Looe Channel off Selsey Bill to clear south of the Mixon between Boulder and Street buoys.

July Tuesday 30th Brighton to Portsmouth.The forecast for my final passage to Portsmouth was WNW 2-3. I wanted to be clear and west of the Looe Channel before the flood tide, so an early start was essential.I rose at 0330 with my passage plan prepared, charts sorted the night before. My passage plan passed to the Solent CG, I slipped at 0410 it was peaceful being the only sole on the move, I could hear the noisy traffic from the shore as I cleared the harbour entrance.

It was quite dark with all the navigation lights on the buoys winking their goodbyes once again and for the last time on this adventure. I looked back at the harbour lights and called out my goodbyes as I had done so to all the other harbours.As I cleared the breakwater and set a course for the Looe Channel, the air was damp but warm. It was about 0530 I noticed the navigation lights of a sailing barge coming out of the morning mist, it brought back thoughts of ‘The Flying Dutchmen’ I later found out her name was Silvia, she was on her way to join the tall ships at Portsmouth.

I first spotted the Mixen guarding the Southern most part off Selsey rocks, we were on time, clearing Boulder and Street buoys to the upper Owers just as the tide was turning against me. I then tacked towards Chichester entrance where the tide would be least, making 3.7 knots over the ground. The wind had turned NW F3-4 by 1400 we had closed on Spit sand Fort on rounding this it was a fetch to Portsmouth entrance, the tide was now pushing me in through the entrance. On rounding the Campers Dolphin I could see my welcoming party Cyril and Mary, my wife Liz and other club members. It was great to see friends again.

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I arrived back to Gosport with some sadness, I had circumnavigated the UK via Cape Wrath and the Orkney’s traversed the Pentland Firth in my Sadler 25 single-handed in winds up to F7, fog in the highlands, a thunderstorm in Wales. Been in and out of Lochs without navigation lights to guide me, it had been a great trip. I will do it again but next time I will go west of Ireland, and fit a heater, preferably a Taylors Paraffin, to dry out cloths and the cabin – it has been a wet year!

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