Abstracts contents 2011.pdf - Costume Society of America

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C(|NTENT\ Thursday, June 9 Richard Martin Exhibition Award Presentation 10:00-11:00 a.m. Thursday, June 9 Juried Oral Presentations 1l:05-12:15 p.m. Thursday, June 9 Juried Oral Presentations 1:15-2:45 p.m. t { #@ drd#@##*- "High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture" Kevin Jonesand Christina Johnson, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Museum & Galleries .................. 6 "SimpliciQr, Good Grooming, and Good Taste:" The Style of Emily Wilkens Rebecca Jumper Matheson, Fashion Instituteof Technology .............................. 7 Charles Kleibacker: Designer, Educator and Curator 192l-2010 Anne Bissonette, University of Alberta ...................... 8 From Broadway to Fifth Avenue: The Achievements and Innovations of American Designer Kiviette Dilia Lopez-Gydosh, University of Delaware .............. 9 PANEL - Everyone's Doing It Percpectives on Social Media and Fashion Johanna Bjork, Editor-in-Chief, Goodlifer.com and Style Blogger, ConcreteFlower.se Rachel Harris,SocialMedia Manager, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Museum SarahScaturro, Textile Conservator, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum MonicaSklar, Founder and Editor, Wornthrough.com ............. ........................... l0 $ s $ 1,f {pq Thursday, June 9 Juried Oral Presentations 1:45*2:55 p.m. Thursday, June 9 Juried Oral Presentations 3:00-4:10 p.m. Thursday, June 9 Juried Oral Presentations 4:40-5:50 p.m. American ldols: Fashions d l'AmEricaine in Pre-Revolutionary France KimberlyChrisman-Campbell, Independent Scholar ......... ............ l1 Fontanges, Frelange, and Frippery: A Conversation Between [ace and Coiffure Elizabeth Davis, Cornell University . ......................... 12 Monstrous Beauty: Women, Wealth and Chopines in Late Sixteenth-Century Venice Elizabeth Semmelhack, The BataShoe Museum ........................... 13 The Gossamen An Enduring Raincoat of the Late Nineteenth Century Arlesa Shephard, Texas A&M University-Kingsville ......... .............. 14 Integrating History and Design: Patent, Process, and Invention Jean Parsons, Iowa State University ......................... 15 Advice for Women on Working Apparel from 1890-1900: A Content Analysis of Ladies' Home Journal and Harper's Bazaar KateCarroll, North Carolina State University .... ............................ 16 Ert6 and Walska Louise Coffey-Webb, WoodburyUniversity .... ......... 17 Leigh Bowery: One Object, One Year Sonnet Stanfill, Victoriaand Albert Museum ........... 18 Historically-Inspired Dress as a Pensonal Style Choice DinaSmithand Jos6 Blanco, University of Georgia ...................... 19 COSTUME SOCIETY OF AMERICA 2011 ABSTRACTS

Transcript of Abstracts contents 2011.pdf - Costume Society of America

C(|NTENT\

Thursday, June 9Richard Martin Exhibition

Award Presentation10:00-11:00 a.m.

Thursday, June 9Juried Oral Presentations

1l :05-12:15 p.m.

Thursday, June 9Juried Oral Presentations

1:15-2:45 p.m.

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"High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture"Kevin Jones and Christina Johnson,Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising Museum & Galleries .................. 6

"SimpliciQr, Good Grooming, and Good Taste:" The Style of Emily WilkensRebecca Jumper Matheson, Fashion Institute of Technology .............................. 7

Charles Kleibacker: Designer, Educator and Curator 192l-2010Anne Bissonette, University of Alberta ......................8

From Broadway to Fifth Avenue: The Achievements and Innovations ofAmerican Designer KivietteDilia Lopez-Gydosh, University of Delaware ..............9

PANEL - Everyone's Doing It Percpectives on Social Media and FashionJohanna Bjork, Editor-in-Chief, Goodlifer.com and Style Blogger, ConcreteFlower.seRachel Harris, Social Media Manager, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising MuseumSarah Scaturro, Textile Conservator, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design MuseumMonica Sklar, Founder and Editor, Wornthrough.com ............. ........................... l0

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Thursday, June 9Juried Oral Presentations

1:45*2:55 p.m.

Thursday, June 9Juried Oral Presentations

3:00-4:10 p.m.

Thursday, June 9Juried Oral Presentations

4:40-5:50 p.m.

American ldols: Fashions d l'AmEricaine in Pre-Revolutionary FranceKimberly Chrisman-Campbell, Independent Scholar......... ............ l1

Fontanges, Frelange, and Frippery: A Conversation Between [ace and CoiffureEl izabeth Davis, Cornel l Universi ty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Monstrous Beauty: Women, Wealth and Chopines in Late Sixteenth-Century VeniceElizabeth Semmelhack, The Bata Shoe Museum ........................... 13

The Gossamen An Enduring Raincoat of the Late Nineteenth CenturyArlesa Shephard, Texas A&M University-Kingsvil le......... .............. 14

Integrating History and Design: Patent, Process, and InventionJean Parsons, Iowa State University ......................... 15

Advice for Women on Working Apparel from 1890-1900: A Content Analysisof Ladies' Home Journal and Harper's BazaarKate Carroll, North Carolina State University.... ............................ 16

Ert6 and WalskaLouise Coffey-Webb, Woodbury University.... .........17

Leigh Bowery: One Object, One YearSonnet Stanfi l l , Victoria and Albert Museum ........... 18

Historically-Inspired Dress as a Pensonal Style ChoiceDina Smith and Jos6 Blanco, University of Georgia ...................... 19

COSTUME SOCIETY OF AMERICA 2011 ABSTRACTS

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Friday, June l0Stella Blum Student

Research Grant Presentation8:30-9:00 a.m.

Friday, June l0Juried Oral Presentations

9:00-10:10 a.m.

Friday, June l0Juried Research Exhibits

10:15-11:30 a.m.

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"Patriotic Chic:" The American War Production Boardand Clothing Design RestrictionsLaura Bellew Hannon, University of California, Riverside...... ..........6

Alatzas: Handwoven Fabrics During the Early Industrial Period in GreeceLinda Welters, Universi ty of Rhode Is land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

"DSrnamic Designs:" Handwoven Textiles of Mary Crovatt HambidgeSusan Nei l l , At lanta History Center. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Of "Peasant Design and Workmanship:" Contextualizing Eastern EuropeanCostumes and Textiles from the Christian Brinton CollectionLaura Camerlengo, Philadelphia Museum of Art........ ....................22

Deborah Franklin: Bringing a Historic Figure to Life Onstage -Historical Accuracy in a Theatrical ProductionJennielynn Streed, Temple University.... .................... 23

Unveiling the Woman's Face: Impacts of Western Culture on Korean'Women's Dress During 1870-1910Seunghye Cho, Framingham State University.... .......24

"Hobble Skirt Tripped Her!:" The Portrayal of the Hobble Skirt, 1910-1913Carmen Keist , Iowa State Universi ty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Macedonian Village Dress, Going, Going, GoneNaeda B. Robinson, Independent Scholar and Author ..................26

The Kente Rap: A Reinterpretation of Traditional Ghanaian TextilesThrough Different Techniques and MediaPhyll is Miller, Mississippi State University.... ............27

Rebozos of Mexico: Style DemonstrationsElaine Veyna Bannatyne, Independent Researcher and Collector ............................................28

Women and Cancer, a Visual PresentationJil l Carey and Eliza Fitzgerald, Lasell Co11ege.................... ..............29

Suit and TiePamela Sebor-Cable, Framingham State Universi ty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Designing and Adapting Period Costumes for Community TheatreBrianna Plummer, Framingham State University.................. ..........31

Defining the ShirtwaistKaren Depauq Connecticut Historical Society .............................32

Dressing Detroit: Detroit Area Dressmakerc from 1880-1920 asRepresented at the Collections of the Henry Ford MuseumErica White, The Henry Ford Museum ......................33

A Versatile Mannequin DesignGwen Spicer, Spicer Art Conservation, LLC ..............34

COSTUME SOCIETY OF AMERICA zOII ABSTRACTS

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Friday, June l0Juried Research Exhibits

10:15-11:30 a.m.(continued)

Friday, June l0Juried Oral Presentations

ll:40-I2:50 p.m.

Friday, June l0Scholars' Roundtable

ll:40-12:50 p.m.

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The Robbins Family of East Lexington, Massachusetts andTheir Clothing, 1775-1840Jennifer M. Swope, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Inside-Out and Online: The Use of Digital Media to ShareMultiple Perspectives of Historic CostumeArden Kirk land, Vassar Col lege.. . . . . . . .

Skirting the Issue: Examining the Social Implications of an Early Hobble DressChloe Boxer. Vassar Collese ...............37

Canton to Washington: Dress in Toy Len Goon's Transition fromChinese Peasant to Political IconJackie Field, Author and Independent Scholar .......38

Dressing the Jibaro: Clothing of the Puerto Rican Peasant through Time and SpaceRaul Vasquez Lopez and Jose Blanco, University of Georgia.... ..........................39

Hidden Revolution: Native Attributes in the Images of theVirgin of the Rosary in Eighteenth-Century PeruKelly Mohs Gage, St. Catherine University.... ..........40

Innovations in Fashion and Dress ScholarshipMarilyn Delong, Professor of Apparel Studies, University of MinnesotaAnne Bissonette, Curator of Clothing and Textiles Collection, University of AlbertaHoward Vincent Kurtz, Associate Professor of Theater Design, George Mason University

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Saturday, June llMillia Davenport Publication

Award Presentation9:15-10:15 a.m.

Saturday, June llJuried Oral Presentations

11:00-12:10 p.m.

Saturday, June llJuried Oral Presentations

l1:00-12:30 p.m.

Dior: A New Look, a New EnterpriseAlexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum.... .............6

"A Matter of Extreme Awkwardness and Perplexity:" The Mutual Interplay of DanceFashions and Fashionable Dances in the Nineteenth CenturyKarin Boehleke, Shippensburg Universi ty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 l

"The New Costumes of Odd Sizes:" PlusSize Women's Fashions of the 1920sCarmen Keist and Sara Marcketti, Iowa State University ................. ...................42

Shapely Bodies: The Material Culture of Women's Health 1880-f 920Kathleen Daly, Boston University.... ......................... 43

Panel - The Graveyard of Fashion: Towards an Archaeology of the WardrobeAlison Matthews David, School of Fashion, Ryerson UniversityHilary Davidson, Museum of LondonCaroline Evans, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design ......................44

COSTUIVI E SOCIETY OF AN] IRICA 2O1O ABSTRACTS

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Saturday, June llJuried OraI Presentations

1:30-3:00 p.m.

Saturday, June llVirtual Exhibition Tour &Juried Oral Presentations

3:00-4:10 p.m.

Saturday, June llJuried Oral Presentations

3:00-4:10 p.m.

Saturday, June 1lJuried Oral Presentations

4:20-4:50 p.m.

"Everyone Can Go to Harlem - and Everyone Does:" Fashion Magazinesand Harlem Nighttife 1920-f 937Susan Hannel, University of Rhode Island............ ..........................45

Five Little Dresses: Revealing the Dionne QuintupletsTina Bates, Canadian Museum of Civil ization..........-......... .............46

Revolution or Evolution?: Ernmanuelle Khanh's Readv-to-WearCreations in 1960s ParisAlexis Romano, Independent Scholar .......................47

Soul Train Fashion ParadeEmily Ripley, Queens College, Parsons School of Design...... .........48

Virtual Exhibition Tour - An Invitation to the Ball: Marjorie Post'sFancy Dress Costumes of the 1920sHoward Kurtz, Hil lwood Estate, Museum & Gardens.... .................49

Pakaian Adat Fashionable Change in Balinese Formal DressCarol Bowdoin Gil, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandisingand Petterson Museum of Intercultural Art ........... ........................50

A Biography of the Cloud CollarRachel Silberstein, University of Oxford...... ..............51

Panel - (Re)Defining FashionAbby Lillethun, Montclair State UniversityLinda Welters, University of Rhode IslandJoanne Eicher, Professor Emerita, University of Minnesota .........52

Reconstructing History While Dressing Lady Charlotte, the Countess of DunmoreJanea Whitacre and Brenda Rousseau, Colonial Will iamsburg Foundation.............................53

COSTUME SOCIETY OF AMERICA 2011 ABSTRACTS

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Wednesday, June 81:30-4:30 p.m.

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PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT SESSIONS

Professionally Speaking: A Career in Costume and FashionHoward Vincent Kurtz, George Mason UniversityAriele Elia, The Fashion Institute of Technology ...........................54

Conservation 9l l: Choosing and Working with a Freelance ConservatorJeff Moore, Chief Conservator, The Preservation Society of Newport CountyAlexandra Allardt, ArtCare ResourcesRebecca Kelly, Freelance Textile ConservatorJessica Urick, Texti le Conservator, The Preservation Society of Newport County ................54

Teaching Costume and Dress HistorySara B. Marcketti, Iowa State UniversitySheryl Farnan Leipzig, MCC-Penn Val ley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Thursday, June 93:00-4:10 p.m.

Thursday, June 94:40-6:10 p.m.

Saturday, June lll :30-3:30 p.m.

Preparing a Book ProspectusJane Farrell-Beck, Iowa State UniversityJudith Keeling, Texas Tech University PressRob Schorman, Miami Universi ty, Ohio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Presenters 'Addresses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Symposium Planning Commit tee.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

Symposium 2012 Ad......... Inside back cover

C0STUT\4E S0CIETY 0F AMERICA 2011 ABSIRACIS