Costume Society of AmericaSouthwest Regional

NewsletterFall 2019 csasw7@gmail.com

Region includes: Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, New Mexico, Colorado, Arizona, Utah

Fiesta Mexicana Kyoto, featuring Mariachis Nippon, September 7, 2019. Photograph by Vicki L. Berger

President's Message

Dear CSA SW Region Members and Friends,

Fall greetings to all! Even here in Arizona, where we had temperatures of 117 degrees this past summer, we are enjoying cooler days and nights. I hope your summer was refreshing and filled with exciting adventures. At the National Symposium in Seattle, we met as a group for an official business meeting. One of our agenda items was the following recommendation:

“Elections for 2019-2021—Edie Sanford sent a recommendation about this summer’s regional election. When we were preparing for the national symposium in San Antonio, TX, officers and board agreed to work another two years and spend the time saved on elections on symposium preparations. Edie suggests this same strategy for 2019. A straw poll of attendees indicated support for Edie’s suggestion. Vicki and Heidi agreed to continue their positions of President and Treasurer. Vicki will poll other officers and board members fortheir commitment.” [Minutes of SW Region Annual Business Meeting in Seattle, WA, May 19, 2019]

As a result of the support expressed by the Seattle attendees, I spent the summer contacting our regional leadership to ask if each person would continue in his/her role for another two years while we concentrate on the 2021 Symposium in Salt Lake City. Everyone said yes and I want to publicly thank each and every leader of our region for doing so. We will resume our regular elections in the summer of 2021 after we host thesymposium in Salt Lake City.

Please save this newsletter with the following roster of our regional leadership volunteers:

CSA SW Region Leadership 2019—2021 President—Vicki L. Berger Vice President—Annette Becker Treasurer—Heidi Cochran Secretary—Marian Ann Montgomery Immediate Past President and Website Manager—Lalon Alexander

� Past President and Newsletter Editor—Edie Sanford� Membership Chair—Christiana Lazarine� Stephanie Bailey—Board Member� Barbara C. Cox—Board Member� Martha Grimm—Board Member� Michaele Haynes—Board Member� Arizona Representative—Vacant� New Mexico Representative—Vacant� Texas Representatives—Edie Sanford, North Central TX; South and WestTX, Vacant� Colorado Representative—Anne Toewe� Kansas Representative—Vacant� Oklahoma Representative—Vacant� Utah Representative—Lara Beene

CSA Southwest Region 2021 Symposium Planning Committee� Co-Chairs—Heidi Cochran and Vicki Berger� Marketplace—Lalon Alexander� Silent Auction—Edie Sanford� Abstracts Administrator—Michaele Haynes� Abstracts Editor—Annette Becker� On-site Registration—Theresa Alexander� Mentor/Mentee Event Coordinator—Sally Queen� Angels Project—Martha Grimm� Design Showcase—Susan Yanofsky (in Ireland at this time)� Professional Development Workshops—volunteers needed� Pre and Post Symposium Tours—volunteers needed� Publicity—volunteers needed� Evaluation—volunteers needed� Sponsor Recruitment—volunteers needed

As you can see, some members have two volunteer commitments, and still,volunteer opportunities abound. Please contact me at v.berger@cox.net(https://shoutout.wix.com/so/18MxulAfY/c?

w=xLU8a5aAkkPUmtR6uf2wAdS6_Gl_yAjFq_vpw-omv8g.eyJ1IjoibWFpbHRvOnYuYmVyZ2VyQGNveC5uZXQiLCJyIjoiNTRiODQ1MmQtYjE0MS00MTI4LTczNmMtZDk0MjhiODVlOTdjIiwibSI6Im1haWxfbHAiLCJjIjoiODM3Yjc0NWUtZDgyNC00MDE1LWEwZGEtNzlmOWUxYmFkZmZiIn0)to select aspecific task and become part of our fantastic leadership team. Also, please visitthe CSA website and bring your membership profile up-to-date as this is oursource for your contact information.

During the CSA 2018-2019 Fiscal Year, Edie Sanford published four regionalnewsletters and we enjoyed three mini-meetings:

� August 11, 2018 in Breckenridge, CO, hosted by Sally Queen with 37participants� December 1, 2018 in Lubbock, TX, hosted by Marian Ann Montgomerywith 13 participants� April 27, 2019 in Dallas, TX, hosted by Edie Sanford and Annette Beckerwith 15 participants

Many thanks to Edie, Sally, Marian Ann, and Annette for hosting! If you areinterested in hosting a get-together, please let me know. A small reimbursementisavailable for expenses.

Konku Indigo Dye Studio, near Lake Biwa. Indigo-dyed yarns drying in thecourtyard, September 6, 2019. Photograph by Vicki L. Berger.

I recently participated in the International Council of Museums (ICOM) Triennial Conference in Kyoto, Japan, September 1-7, 2019. Fifty-eight ICOM Costume Committee members, 15 Japanese guests, and 11 accompanying persons attended. Personal highlights were presentations, exhibitions, behind-the-scenes visits, a field trip to Lake Biwa, a Noh performance, and a surprise Fiesta Mexicana Kyoto. Enjoy the images!

Best wishes,Vicki L. Berger, Ph.D.CSA SW President2211 N. 7 th AvenuePhoenix, AZ 85007v.berger@cox.net

National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto, “Dress Code: Are You PlayingFashion?” Camouflage kimono, September 1, 2019.

Chiso Gallery, Kyoto, “A Garden Through the Window”. Red kimono,September 5, 2019. Photographs by Vicki L. Berger.

Call for Student and Emerging ProfessionalMembership Applicants

Students and emerging professionals located in the CSA SW Region andinterested in clothing, costume, history, art, anthropology, apparel design,

fashion merchandising, museum studies, and related fields are urged toapply.

Definitions of the two categories are:

· Emerging Professional - new professionals for up to three years aftergraduation· Student - Full time students

Send packets to: Dr. Vicki L. Berger, President, CSA Southwest Region, 2211N. 7th Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85007. OR v.berger@cox.net

(602) 256-9457Due date for receipt of packet: Friday, November 22, 2019

Please include:

1. A completed CSA membership application foundon costumesocietyamerica.com 2. For students, a photocopy of valid student ID card for fall semester 2019. For emerging professionals, proof of graduation within the three year limit.3. A 300 word essay explaining how membership in CSA would enhance your student experience or your emerging career.4. For students, a letter of recommendation from mentoring faculty member. For emerging professionals, a letter of recommendation from someone who knows the applicant in a professional capacity. These letters

may be included in the packet or mailed directly to Dr. Berger at the address above.

Gallery Talk with Annette Becker

Coinciding with the Dior exhibit at the Dallas Museum of Art were variousworkshops, lectures, and gallery talks. All giving more insight and fun into Diorand the world of fashion. One gallery talk was given by CSA member AnnetteBecker. Annette presented "Dior: Inside out", discussing the influence of body,silhouette, textiles, and accessories on the designs by Christian Dior. His NewLook proposed a unique version of femininity in the postwar era.

The Dior exhibit at the Dallas Museum of Art is extended through October 27,2019.

A Century of StyleHistoric Clothing and Classic Literature

L. Tom Perry Special Collections Reading RoomHarold B. Lee Library, Level 1, BYU

A Century of Style, Historic Clothing and Classic Literature pairs historic clothingpieces with classical literature books. Many of the books are first editions and

quite rare. The exhibit covers most of the nineteenth century through the 1920’sand will be up until the end of October.

Brigham Young UniversityProvo, UT

Cotton and Thrift: Feed Sacks and the HouseholdFabric of Rural America

https://shoutout.wix.com/so/18MxulAfY?cid=837b745e-d824-4015-a0da-79f9e1badffb#/main 12/12/19, 8:38 AMPage 13 of 28

June 25 - Dec. 15, 2019The Museum of Texas Tech University

Feed sacks were everywhere in the homes of rural Americans in the middle of the twentieth century. Pulled from almost 6000 examples of cotton sacks in the Museum’s collection, a major exhibit of this material opens June 25, 2019 at the Museum of Texas Tech University and runs through December 15, 2019.

The exhibit will feature garments and quilts made from printed cotton sack fabric as well as whole sacks, numerous examples of the prints put on sacks after 1937, and an example of embroidered sacks sent from Belgium as a thank you for American assistance during World War I. During hard times in the 20th century, this source of “free” fabric was essential to the survival of rural families for whom feed sacks were a prime source of fabric for clothing, curtains and, quilts. The core of the collection was assembled by quilt historian, Pat L. Nickols, and acquired by the Museum in 2015. Included in the exhibition will be examples from the more than 3,000 printed cotton feed sack swatches that the Museum holds, illustrating the wide variety of prints available to the consumer.

The exhibit is timed to coincide with the release of the highly anticipated book of the same title featuring over 500 color images and written by Clothing and Textiles Curator, Marian Ann J. Montgomery, Ph.D. Published by Texas Tech University Press, the catalog focuses on the history of the cotton sack, its evolution from white to printed fabric, the promotional booklets distributed to promote the use of cotton sacks, and the extraordinary examples in the Museum’s collection.

The Museum of Texas Tech University is located at 3301 4th Street, Lubbock, TX 79409 and is open free to the public Tuesday-Saturday 10-5 and Sunday 1-5. For furtherinformation please contact Curator of Clothing and Textiles, Dr. Marian Ann J. Montgomery at (806) 834-5146 or marian.ann.montgomery@ttu.edu.

The Fabric of Opera: Winspear WorldPremieres

September 13 - November 06NorthPark Center

Level One between Neiman Marcus and Dillard's

Featuring costumes from Dallas Opera World Premieres: Moby-Dick,Everest, Great Scott and Becoming Santa Claus

Curated by The Dallas Opera set and costume designer TommyBourgeois, the exhibition explores the meticulously researched outfits ofthe nineteenth-century seafarers, modern-day mountaineers,contemporary opera stars, and the imaginary denizens of the North Pole

— including some zany elves. This exhibition also contains revealingcommentary about the creative process from these world-renownedcomposers and librettists.

NorthPark CenterDallas, TX

Walking in Beauty: Designs by Orlando DugiJuly 2 – December 14, 2019

Avenir Museum Large GalleryColorado State University

Santa Fe based fashion designer Orlando Dugi combines beading and feather work fromhis Diné (Navajo) heritage with sophisticated modern silhouettes to create uniquemoments of fantasy. This exhibition presents examples of his women’s evening wearand handbags in an exploration of the evolution of this unique designer.

Walking in Beauty: An Evening with Orlando DugiThursday, November 7, 2019; 7pmThe Linda L. Carlson Classroom at the Avenir Museum

Designer Orlando Dugi will speak in this free public lecture about his work and career inconjunction with the exhibition Walking in Beauty: Designs by Orlando Dugi on viewin the Avenir Museum’s Large Gallery July 2-December 14, 2019. Dugi’s visit to CSU ispart of the university’s celebration of Native American Heritage Month.

Gallery Talks with Orlando Dugi

Saturday, November 9, 2019; 11am, 1pm, 3pmAvenir Museum Large Gallery

See the exhibition Walking in Beauty: Designs by Orlando Dugi during the Avenir’s regular 11am

– 6pm Saturday hours, and meet the designer himself during informal gallery talks and Q&A at 11am, 1 pm,

and 3 pm.

All of the above are at the following location:Avenir Museum of Design & Merchandising

Colorado State University216 E. Lake Street

Fort Collins, CO 80523www.avenir.colostate.edu

(970) 491-1983Free and Open to the Public Tuesday thru Saturday 11am – 6pm

TCU Costume Collection Relocates

The Texas Christian University's, Fort Worth, TX, historic costume collection wasmoved into its innovative home in the brand new Fine Arts Building on the TCUcampus. The new location includes a dedicated climate control system, highdensity storage and the technology to lay a delicate item out on the table in thecollection room and view it from the classroom next door. The new space alsoincludes a decontamination room for future acquisitions and a display area so thecollection can have more exposure to the TCU student body.

Icon, American StyleMillicent Rogers MuseumThrough April 30, 2020

This exhibit focuses on Millicent Rogers' role as a fashion muse, icon, anddesigner. It features images from popular style magazines, never before seenphotographs and letters from the museum's archives. Also featured is a large

selection of jewelry designed my Millicent herself.

The Millicent Rogers Museum1504 Millicent Rogers Road

Taos, NM 87571

Dior: From Paris to the WorldExtended through October 27, 2019

Dallas Museum of Art

Since his debut collection, art gallerist turned legendary couturier Christian Diorhas generated an epic movement in fashion history. With lavish embroidery,luxurious fabrics, and elegant silhouettes, his designs were a revolutionarycelebration of modern femininity when they emerged in Paris after World War II. Today, Dior’s global influence is as enduring and iconic as ever. Dior: From Paristo the World surveys more than 70 years of the House of Dior’s legacy, featuring adynamic selection of over 100 haute couture dresses, as well as accessories,

photographs, original sketches, runway videos, and other archival material. This exhibition profiles both Dior himself and subsequent artistic directors, including Yves Saint Laurent (1958–1960), Marc Bohan (1961–1989), Gianfranco Ferré(1989–1996), John Galliano (1997–2011), Raf Simons (2012–2015), and Maria Grazia Chiuri (2016–present), all of whom have carried Dior’s vision into the 21st century.

Timed tickets are required. Adult tickets are $20 Tuesday–Thursday, and $25 Friday–Sunday, with discounts for seniors, students, and military. DMA Members can reserve their free tickets online. Children 11 and under are free.

Dallas Museum of Art, 1717 North Harwood, Dallas, Texas 75201

Membership Report

Current Southwest region membership as of August 30, 2019: 73 members total which includes 46 standard members, 7 student members, 2 Supporting members, 2 Emerging Professional members, 5 digital members, and 11 institutional members.

Our regional membership has decreased 8.75% since August 2018. Nationalmembership has decreased 3.55% since last August. Northeast and Westernregions experienced the most growth in the past year.

Submitted by CSA Southwest Membership Chair Christiana Lazarine

Treasury Notes

7/1/2019 $3,505.78 Beginning balance8/9/2019 $ (31.93) Reimbursement for Breckenridge10/1/2019 $3,473.85 Current balance

Submitted by CSA Southwest Treasurer Heidi Cochran

2020 Symposium and Annual MeetingJune 3 through 7, 2020

New York City

Hosted by the Mid-Atlantic Region Co-chairs: Ariele Elia and Tanya Williams Wetenhall

Additional information:http://costumesocietyamerica.com/national-symposia/proceedings/

Photo of the DayGrandma's Cousins

Grandparent's Family Photo Album

Editor's Corner

The ongoing themes in this newsletter: Volunteer! Get involved! We needvolunteers for the symposium in 2021, but we also need people to get involvedwith the region. We will not elect a new board until 2021, however, you can stillbe involved by being a state rep. Or contact your state rep and host a gathering,big or small. More activity creates more interest in the society and increasesmembership. As you can see from our membership report, our membership hasdecreased in the past year. What ideas do we have to increase activity, increasenetworking, and increase membership?

I look forward to hearing from everyone about activities, exhibitions, workshops,or social gatherings around the region!

Hope to see you at a local or national gathering soon!!

National website: www.costumesocietyamerica.com

Edie Sanford-TuazonNewsletter "Editor"Regional Past PresidentNorth Texas State Repcsasw7@gmail.com (