A windlass wine press. Taken from a sixteenth-cen- tury ...

15
A windlass wine press. Taken from a sixteenth-cen- tury woodcut. ; Steps in winemaking. Taken from an Egyptian tomb painting. Punishment for drunkenness: the stocks. Taken from Spiegel Menchliiher Behalinis by Berger published in 1489 in Augberg. Cooperage. Taken from Libra della Agricultura published in 1511 in Venice. -Drinking champagne. Taken from Opus Ruralium Comma- I dorum by Piero Crescentio published in Venice in 1493. • ,;.." , , •••v ).-•••• .4Arj . :7)...11: VT-esl e"...7 "se I (...; u• • P te, !•••-: ?7, 1,-,•-,. ••,7•P'''' c•-•"''. ---.. e•-•“ ,,. c.- _. -, -- - raj ,-;•.. 1 1, 1 ''..,_1/ N) 1 l 1. 'n•

Transcript of A windlass wine press. Taken from a sixteenth-cen- tury ...

Page 1: A windlass wine press. Taken from a sixteenth-cen- tury ...

A windlass wine press. Taken from a sixteenth-cen-tury woodcut.

;

Steps in winemaking. Taken from an Egyptian tomb painting.

Punishment for drunkenness: the stocks. Taken from Spiegel Menchliiher Behalinis by Berger published in 1489 in Augberg.

Cooperage. Taken from Libra della Agricultura published in 1511 in Venice.

-Drinking champagne. Taken from Opus Ruralium Comma- I dorum by Piero Crescentio published in Venice in 1493.

• ,;.." , , •••v ).-•••• .4Arj.:7)...11:

VT-esle"...7 "se I (...; u• • Pte,

!•••-:

?7, 1,-,•-,. ••,7•P'''' c•-•"''. ---.. e•-•“,,. c.- _. -, -- - raj ,-;•..

1 1, 1 ''..,_1/ N) 1 l ■ 1.

'n•

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Caleb and Joshua bringing in the wine grapes. Taken from Biblia Germaniru Decinquarta published in Strasbourg in 1518.

Breaking the soil to plant grape vines. Taken from Oyu: Rumhum Cornmodorum by Piero Crescentio pub-lished in 1493 in Venice.

Pruning vines. Taken from Opus Ruralium Commodorum by Piero Crescentio pub-lished in 1493 in Venice.

Harvesting the grapes. Taken from Opus Ruruliunr Cornme-durum by Piero Crescentio published in 1493 in Venice.

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Eastern U.S.

A Geographic Appreciation

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California

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HISTORICAL MOVEMENT OF THE GRAPEVINE

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MAJOR DIFFUSION ROUTES OF VITICULTURE

IN SOUTHWEST ASIA AND EUROPE

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Later Expansion

Diffusion of Viticulture Worldwide

Major Diffusion Routes of Viticulture in Southwest Asia and Europe

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HISTORICAL MOVEMENT OF THE GRAPEVINE- - CALIFORNIA

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AND EARLY VITICULTURE IN CALIFORNIA

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PURISIMA (17E1 7) LUIS OBISPO (1772) MIGUEL (1797) ANTONIO (1771) SOLEDAD (1791) CARLOS (17,0)

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Missions and Early Viticulture in California

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DIE WYNBOER Mei 1966 21

A Wine-lover's Notes

By Hastings Beck

From Wild Vine to Wine M OST of us have accepted confidently the theory

that the cultivated vine from which the blessing of wine was spread throughout the

civilised world originated in or around Iran and was in fact the forebear of those vines which yielded to Omar Khayyam "the old familiar juice". It is also accepted that in some very remote age it was carried from Persia to Greece and in historic times made its way thence along the shores of the Mediterranean and through Europe.

That it is possible to look back further than these events right into prehistory and to trace the development of the wild vine and its influence upon, and gradual adaption to, the social life of man, had not occurred to me until I found myself immersed in a remar':.able book coming from what you might think to be an unlikely source.

FROM Britain comes a notable contribution to the wine world and to the entertainment of all wine

lovers. It is a work illuminated by a knowledge and inspired with a spirit you would think more likely to emerge from one of those countries in which men have for centuries lived with the vine and studied its ways, not only in their individual lives but in the several institutions of Europe which constantly seek to enlarge man's knowledge on the subject.

One, Edward Hyams, has for many years been growing the vine in the South of England and study-ing its history and prehistory. He must be a man of much ability and inexhaustible energy. His know-ledge is encyclopaedic, stretching from the first ar-chaeological traces of the wild vine to today, em-bracing all those parts of the earth's surface on which the kindly provider of our wines is to be found and collating all this against the background of the history of men.

This, the latest summing up of human knowledge of the history of the vine in its relationship with mankind, was published last year under the compre-hensive title "Dionysus", which I prefer to spell, as Seltman does in "Wine in the Ancient World", "Dio-nysos" and I have been told that some permit "Dionysis". It seems that that this most ancient god experienced, as Shakespeare did, difficulty in spelling his own name.

We, in South Africa, are well accustomed to writers who, after visiting us for a few months, write authoritatively upon whatever subject they choose in relation to South Africa. Such contributions even if factually correct are necessarily very superficial. If Edward Hyams has ever seen our vineyards it must certainly have been on some such short visit. Prob-ably he has not seen them at all. Yet I cannot find one slip in his detailed history of the birth and spread of those vineyards, and to that, to most of us, familiar story he even adds some facts which I

did not know before. This I mention to show that his research must be as sound as it is extensive.

To start with prehistory, the wild vine existed long before mankind. It existed before the earth underwent those upheavals which divided the conti-nents and the oceans. So the primitive forebears of the wild vines known today were separated and from the original genus developed in different places dif-ferent species in their Eurasian, Asian or American spheres. Of these, one only, the vitis vinifera, though not born great, was destined to achieve greatness or, more correctly, to have greatness thrust upon it, for it was man who raised it to the place of honour which it now occupies in the civilised world.

The other varieties of wild grape remained unde-veloped performing little if any service to mankind over many millenia until the last century when American wild vines came to the rescue of the vine-yards during the phylloxera scourge.

It seems that the discovery of the wild vine graft being resistant to phylloxera may not have been just the result of a hit and miss experiment. Edward Hyams has rooted out and I think revealed for the first time the fact that when Cortez was conquering Mexico he imported vine cuttings from Spain and instructed that they should be grafted onto wild vine stock. This was not, of course, as a safeguard against phylloxera, which was then unknown, but to speed up the production of wine.

The Spanish missionaries from Mexico who took the vine to California a century or so later must have known of this practice and possibly even have intro-duced it into some vineyards.

ANOTHER interesting point in the prehistory of the wild vine is that it was able to spread only

in the Northern hemisphere. Tropical heat has burn-ed any wandering down into the Southern hemi-sphere. This seems to give the knock-out blow to Leipoldt's recollection, in his "300 years of Cape Wines", that he had tasted wine made from a wild grape in the Knysna forest. When that first ap- peared I got into touch with a couple of our leading experts who viewed it with very great doubt but, perhaps out of affection for Leipoldt, which I shared, did not entirely rule out the possibility.

In these notes, thus far I feel that I have been fulfilling the functions of a wine steward who pours very little out of the bottle into your glass so that you may judge whether it is what you wish, If you equate the style of writing with the bouquet, the presentation with the colour and the contents of the book with the body and character of a wine, you will be satisfied that, in terms of wine, "Dionysus" has a most attractive bouquet, a distinguished colour and that it is a full wine of great character. In fact it is so great a wine that next month I hope to carry on the wine steward's duty and pour more into your glass. •

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NOVEMBER, 1984

The story of the vine he vine is an important plant in his- tory and culture. It is of great economic

and social significance. It is native to the ter-ritory of the European Community. There are indications the genus Vitis was in ex-istence in the Pliocene epoch (from ten to one million years before Christ.)

Antonio Niederbacher writes in "Wine in the European Community," published by the Office for Official Publications of the European Communities that the Mediter-ranean area has been inextricably bound up with the vine and wine. The following is taken from his article:

Mythology, painting, sculpture, poetry, dress, eating habits, trade, medicine, even religion, in short, the whole fabric of life of the Mediterranean people, bear the im-memorial imprint of the vine and wine.

Wine and the vine have not only per-meated the culture of these countries, they have throughout history helped determine the type of society to be found in them. „ The vine is a plant of settlement. It forces man to give up his nomadic wanderings and to establish himself on the land. To plant a vine is to choose a place in which to live for many decades, building homesteads, villages and machinery. Planting vines

forces man to take on a more binding com-mitment than that imposed by earlier types of agriculture involving only the grazing of animals and growing seasonal cereals.

The spread of cultivation of the vine meant wine became a part of the general diet. It was an energy-giving food that sup-plemented the modest diets of the time. It offered a sense of well-being and happiness, and for the better off, new pleasures at the table.

Wine and bread became staples of agri-culture, irreplaceable in the diet of the mass of people, and a symbol of hospitality. It is with good reason wine was sanctified by Christianity in the mystery of the Eucharist. But above all, wine more than any other drink, offers by reason of its different levels of quality and its varying characteristics such a range of choice and price that it is drunk by rich and poor alike at all times.

Today we drink wine because we enjoy it, because it is nourishing and because it quenches the thirst. But, we also drink 'the idea of the bottle of wine.' There is a romance about the wine itself, the glass con-taining it and the label describing the con-tents. ,Wine complements the meal, it enriches the table, adds color and fantasy.

Wine makes the meal a festive occasion. The choice of wine is personalized, emotionally involving those who sit down to drink it. Wine has a language and ritual all its own.

None of this can be said of other drinks, the primary purpose of which is to quench the thirst, as an alternative to water. They differ from wine by remaining on the mar-gins of gastronomy in which wine occupies a center place.

The immense importance of both vine and wine in the different facets of the social life of the Mediterranean people is match-ed by the great importance of viticulture in economic and political life.

The vine accompanied the spread of Mediterrean civilization from the Middle East to Greece and Rome and eventually ac-companied the expansion of Roman rule to the Italian Peninsula, France, Germany and Spain. A large portion of the agricultural population supports itself with the vine.

For more than 200 years the importance of viticulture has been such as to require meticulous regulation of the production and marketing of wine, with very strict rules against fraud. Measures have been taken to limit cultivation in periods of excess supply. Marketing regulations also have been im-posed. There is nothing new under the sun. Wine has always been an inexhaustible and irreplaceable source of tax revenue.

Wherever vines were grown, merchants in wine were to be found. As early as 1,500 B.C., Phoenician boats were crossing the Mediterranean with wine produced in Greece, Italy and Spain. Trade in wine was connected with a number of wars. Roman wine merchants were among those who sup-ported Cato's campaign for the destruction of Carthage, then the seat of a flourishing wine trade.

From the beginning, and for thousands of years, trade in wine was dominated by city-based merchants, not those who grew the vines and made the wine. Not until the 17th century is there the first evidence of commercialism by producers. We must move to the 19th century to find the new type of operator appearing. These were producers joint undertakings or wine cooperatives.

Today, of the 270 million hectoliters of wine produced in the countries with free economies, 100 million are produced and marketed by wine cooperatives. (A hecto-liter equals 100 liters or 26.4 gallons. A liter equals 1.057 quarts.)

When the Roman Empire fell, viticul-ture, like the rest of agriculture, decayed rapidly. The fall of Rome and the barbarian invasions marked the vine's lowest ebb. A valuable role was played by monastic orders, in particular the Benedictines and Cistercians, who in the seclusion of their monasteries preserved agricultural skills in-

WINES & VINES

eluding vines and wine. With the beginning of the Renaissance

the vine and wine began to flourish again. The discovery of America opened the gates of the entire world to the vine. The scourge of phylloxera, which almost put an end to cultivation of vines in Europe at the end of the last century, was defeated by means of a contribution (resistant rootstock) from the new world.

The Office International de la Vigne et du Vin (OIV), the official body to which belong almost all winegrowing countries, calculates the area devoted to vines in the world has stabilized the last few years at around 10,100,000 hectares spread over 50 different countries (one hectare equals 2.47 acres).

Europe predominates with 17 countries accounting for 7,204,000 hectares. Asia has 1,459,000, America, 934,000. World pro-duction of wine has been more than 300 million hectoliters for the last decade. Europe which has 71% of the total area under vines, accounts for roughly 80 % of total wine production. In 1981, Europe pro-duced 237 million hectoliters of wine.

The last 35 years has seen a spectacular worldwide expansion of viticulture and wine production. It is notable that through this period of great expansion, acreage has gone down in the countries that have been growing grapes the longest, such as France, Italy and Spain, while there have been big increases in eastern Europe (particularly the

USSR) and the Americas (particularly Argentina and the U.S.).

In the last few decades, there has been a twofold trend in consumption of wine. It is going up in countries where viticulture is expanding, but which have not been tradi-tional consumers. It is declining in those countries which are large producers and

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consumers. ever tne past uecaue consump-tion has dropped in Italy, France, Portugal, Spain and Argentina. The U.S., Canada, the United Kingdom, Austria, Germany and Belgium continue to increase in per capita.

Consumption is increasing in wine-, producing countries where the economy is growing and in countries where licensed beverages are high. Consumption of beer is more than 800 million hectoliters compared with 300 million for wine.

Wine is produced in five of the member states 'in the European Economic Com-munity (EEC). The relatively small area in-volved is responsible for half the wine pro-duction in the world. This explains why the European Community puts so much effort into regulating the market in regard to both quantity and quality.

The EEC's vineyards account for 27% of the total area of vines in the world and pro-vides 38% of world production of grapes and 48% of wine. A total of 2,550,000 hec-tares of wine grapes is distributed between 2,090,000 holdings.

Wine is included in the EEC's Common Agricultural Policy. To control wine surpluses, the Community adopted distilla-tion as the instrument for regulating the wine market. The inevitable consequence of this 1970 decision is that when wine surpluses occurred problems arise on the alcohol market. Also, making wine out of surplus table grapes helps the fruit market

at the expense of the wine market.

This is one of the problems not yet resolv-ed, and one which is becoming more and more acute because the saturation point on the alcohol market is not far off.

A second problem equally vexing, maybe even more so, is the burden of taxes levied upon wine in certain EEC countries, which clearly tend to put a brake on consumption.

A third major problem which has assail-ed the common wine market in an extreme-ly acute form is currency fluctuation. One of the cornerstones of the EEC's Common Agricultural Policy is guaranteeing a single price for each product. A price that has an equal true value although expressed in dif-ferent national currencies. In 1970, when the common wine market was established, wine prices in France and Italy were near-ly the same. Consequently there was no financial advantage in selling Italian wine on the French market. The cost of trans-portation could hardly be surmounted.

The suspension of convertibility of the dollar into gold (August 1971) gave rise to a system of floating exchange rates which saw a progressive devaluation of weaker currencies such as the Italian lira, and a revaluation of stronger currencies such as the German mark. Italian wine began to enter the French market (and the U.S.) because it was cheaper. The 1982 reform of the common organization of the market in wine was intended as an important step towards resolving the problem by broaden-ing the scope of the price guarantee for wine.

The EEC has managed to absorb Greece, and is now preparing itself for dealing with Spain and Portugal. The problem is an in-triguing and worrying one. The Iberian Peninsula cannot remain outside a united E urone.

Wherever vines were grown, merchants in wine were to be found

Spain is the third largest wine producer in the world and has one of the greatest acreages under vines. Portugal is the seventh largest producer.

Here are some of the facts and figures: • 47 million inhabitants, 10 million in

Portugal, 37 million in Spain compared to 270 million in the EEC.

• 2 million hectares of vines, 350,000 in Portugal and 1,650,000 in Spain (60% qualifying as producing wine with a registered designation of origin as against 2,700,000 hectares in the EEC.)

• Average wine production of 40-50 million hectoliters, 8-10 million in Portugal

and 30-40 million in Spain compared to 140-150 million in the EEC. The produc-tion of liqueur wines, including the cele-brated sherry, port, malaga and madeira amounts to three million hectoliters per year. Quality wines amount to 6-7 million hectoliters compared to 30 million in the EEC.

• Export of 7 million hectoliters of wine as against 25 million from the EEC countries.

• Table wines, which constitute the major part of the Iberian production, total 35-40 million hectoliters against 110 million in the EEC. Half of these are white wines, but reds predominate in consumption.

• A vineyard structure which is highly fragmented and mainly under extensive forms of cultivation. Much the same applies to the winemaking structures (industrial and cooperative), which are very similar to those in Italy. (Spain has 850 cooperatives with 200,000 members accounting for half of total production.)

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• ..:ever,f7""" ..• • • •

Circa 1890, the Greystone Cellars of The Christian Brothers in St. Helena, built by William B. Bourn II, was reputed to be the largest stone winery in the world.

It began in San Diego with Father Serra

Winegrowing in California

FILLED with love of God and zeal for the honor and glory of "both Majesties"— God and Carlos III, King of Spain— Governor Portola and Father Junipero Serra took up the 18th Century challenge to explore, Christianize and lay claim to the unknown Alta California.

As the first step, three ships, the San Carlos, San Antonio and San Jose, plus two land parties, left Mexico early in 1769 to meet at San Diego. The San Carlos and San Antonio reached San Diego in desperate condition with many of their sailors dead or very sick with scurvy. The San Jose was lost at sea.

The land parties reached San Diego on May 15 and July 1. Mission San Diego was founded by Father Junipero Serra on July 16, 1769, the first of the chain of 21 mis-sions that would stretch to Sonoma, 600 miles north.

The land parties, one under Governor Portola and Father Junipero Serra, the other under Rivera and Father Crespi, had a total of 50 soldiers, 72 Indian archers, an engineer, several interpreters, cooks, muleteers, laborers and 700 large animals such as cattle, mules, horses and donkeys.

The three ships, under Commandant Vila, each with one or two missionaries, carried such things as "large and small can-non, chests of powder; jars of oil and of brandy, casks of wine, sacks of beans and of meal, stores of smoked meat, dates and hardtack; bells and liturgical equipment for future churches, agricultural implements for the future farms; seeds, cuttings of flowers and fruit trees; chickens and a dozen pigs."

When the land parties reached Alta California "they found vines growing wild

BROTHER TIMOTHY

and there was grass again." Serra wrote "our animals have never fed so well — there is soil and water everywhere. Even the mountains can be cultivated."

Brother Timothy, perhaps the best-known wine cleric since Dom Perignon.

As each mission was planned to be relatively self-sufficient, annual plantings of wheat and other foodstuffs were made and perennial plants like grapes, olives and figs were set out. Cattle and other livestock were also established at each mission.

Wine for the Eucharist was essential. So, a serious effort was made at each mission to grow wine grapes and make a pure altar wine. Wine for the dinner table and even some brandy also was made. Records in-dicate that one of the largest producers, Mis sion San Gabriel, developed an annual pro-duction of "400 to 600 barrels of wine and about 200 barrels of brandy."

Having founded nine missions in 15 years, Junipero Serra died in peace at Mission Carmel and was buried with full religious, military and naval honors. The Indians "weeping and bearing field flowers" lamented the loss of "their holy father, their

blessed father, the best man on earth." Mexico declared its independence from

Spain in 1821 and on January 6, 1831 began the "secularization" of the mission lands. The days of mission expansion, glory and power had suddenly faded. Yet, many of the vines, trees, flowers and field crops lived on to influence future developments.

In 1831 a dynamic Frenchman named Jean Louis Vignes (certainly an appropriate surname) arrived in Los Angeles and pur-chased 104 acres on which to plant wine grapes. The land included the area of downtown Los Angeles where the Union Station now stands. Vignes imported wine grape cuttings from Europe, all of better varieties than the Mission grape which had been widely grown at the missions.

It is said that "in 1833 Los Angeles had six wine growers owning nearly 100 acres of vineyards and approximately 100,000 vines." Vignes was the best known and most successful of these. His wines and brandies were of excellent quality. His pride in his products motivated , him to send some of his wines for an ocean trip to Boston and back to improve their quality before sending them to market.

William Wolfskill, perhaps more ag-gressive than Vignes, planted 32,000 vines in Los Angeles between 1838 and 1846. About the same time he planted other vine-yards as far north as Napa Valley and the Putah Creek area of Solano and Yolo counties.

He sold grapes in San Francisco for $25 per hundred pounds. His winery in Los Angeles had a cellar capacity of 60,000 to 100,000 gallons, and his wines were said to compare "favorably with the best French and Madeira wines."

When gold was discovered in 1848, and thousands of thirsty miners flooded northern California in 1849, it was no longer necessary to send wine to distant markets. The market had come to California. Vine-yards were rapidly and extensively planted and winemaking became well established as a commercial business.

A man with great vision, drive and op-timism, Agoston Haraszthy, arrived on the scene in 1849, and soon became well known and influential. He imported European grape cuttings in 1851 when living in San Diego.

On June 10, 1861 he departed San Fran-cisco on board the steamer "Golden Age" in his effort to accelerate the arrival of the golden age of California wine by touring Europe, studying grape growing and wine-making practices and returning to Califor-nia with cuttings of the best wine grape varieties to upgrade the California industry.

Reporting to the California legislature on his six-month European study tour, he said: "California can produce as noble and generous a wine as any in Europe . . . I have purchased in different parts of Europe 100,000 vines, embracing about 1,400 varieties." Haraszthy is deserving of the ti-tle "Father of the modern California wine

52 WINES & VINES

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industry." In 1870 it was estimated that viticultural in-vestments in California amounted to more than $30,000,000 in gold.

George Husmann, former professor of horticulture at the University of Missouri, said: "A visit to this shore, in the summer of 1881, convinced me that this was the true home of the grape, and that California, with her sunny and dry summers, and her mild winters, was destined to be the vine land of the world; that promised land where everyone 'could sit under his own vine and fig tree'."

Such men as Leland Stanford and Charles A. Wetmore soon contributed their energy and talents to the cause of wine. Wetmore, in 1884, said: "On this coast the vine came in with the first attempts in civilization; our history will know nothing older than the vineyard."

During the 1870s, '80s and '90s, many vineyards in California (and also Europe) were devastated by the root louse, phyllox-era vastatrix, which fed on roots and caus-ed decline and death of the vine.

In the 1880s, the Santa Ana Valley vineyards were infected with "Anaheim disease," later called "Pierce's disease." Great economic hardship was experienced during this sad period. Grafting or budding onto resistant rootstocks is now done to avoid phylloxera damage. Even though its cause is known, Pierce's disease remains without a practical preventive or cure.

JUST ONE GOLD MEDAL WAS AWARDED AT OHIO JUDGING

Only one wine entered in the 1982 Ohio Wine Producers Association judging — Chelois from Meier's Wine Cellars — re-ceived a gold medal. Meier's also tied, with Heineman Winery, for two awards as it received a bronze medal for Haut Sauterne.

Heineman earned a bronze for Dry Catawba and a silver for Pink Catawba.

Steuk Wine Co. had the most medals, three, receiving bronzes for extra dry champagne, 1980 Seyval Blanc and Ohio Burgundy.

Eighty-six wines were entered in the competition by 20 wineries. The judging was held in conjunction with the Grape-Wine Short Course at Columbus Feb. 15-17. A total of 23 awards were made.

Two notable scientific researchers of the last quarter of the 19th century who left their imprints on the grape and wine world were Eugene W. Hilgard and Frederick T. Bioletti, professors at the University of California at Berkeley.

In spite of phylloxera, Pierce's disease and economic losses, winemakers were en-couraged when "35 gold, silver and bronze medals awarded to California wines at the Paris Exposition of 1889 attest to the im-proved quality." Eleven years later, 29 California wineries gave a repeat perfor-mance as they won 36 medals and four honorable mentions at the Paris Exposition of 1900.

Rudolph Jordan Jr., a previous owner of our Mont La Salle property, said in his book "Quality in Dry Wines," 1911, "California offers possibilities by her soil and climate that will give her a world-wide reputation

for the quality of her dry wines." Dwarfing most previous troubles, pro-

hibition became the law of the land from the end of 1919 to December 1933. Sales of altar wines and medicinal wines were heavi-ly regulated but permitted to some wineries. The Christian Brothers were among the favored wine producers allowed to remain in business throughout prohibition. However, we prayed for Repeal and were happy when it came.

With the great Depression of the '30s weighing upon the economy, the grape and wine industry recovered slowly from pro-hibition. The shortage or absence of old, ex-perienced winemakers meant that all of us beginners had to have an open mind to learn from the publications of the University of California and listen carefully to such authorities as W.V. Cruess, M.A. Joslyn, L.G. Saywell, M.A. Amerine, H. Olmo, V.L. Singleton and Harold Berg, all pro-fessors at the University and dedicated to the progress and perfection of California wine. These men and others like them have set the sound scientific foundations for our present day wine technology.

Maynard A. Amerine believes that "California has made more progress in im-proving wine quality since the repeal of pro-hibition than any other viticultural region in a comparable period—in fact, no wineries in the world today are better equipped overall than those of California. This has led to enhanced pride in quality which is now an accepted part of the California wine industry."

The high quality of Napa Valley grapes and wines has caused new wineries to sprout like mushrooms. Great wines and interna-tional acclaim have crowned the Napa Valley with glory. Attracted by the excite-ment, many wineries of foreign background are now in business in the Napa Valley. We are delighted and flattered that our grapes and wines have given them reason to join us in the production of fine Napa Valley wines.

From nothing in 1779, California grape plantings have grown to 683,992 acres; the 1980 grape crop broke all previous records as it reached 5,124,000 tons valued at $1,338,681,000.; annual wine production reached 439,036,000 gallons. The grand total investment in vineyards, more than 400 wineries, brandy distilleries, brandy warehouses, plus wine and brandy inven-tories makes this a multi-billion dollar agricultural industry. Grapes are regularly the most valuable fruit crop of the No. 1 agricultural state, California.

I agree with Maynard A. Amerine when he says "the future will surely be better than the past. The best as far as wine quality is concerned is yet to be."

Saint Paul wrote to my patron, Saint Timothy, and advised him to "take a little wine for thy stomach's sake and thy fre-quent infirmities." Even though this was ad-dressed to an earlier Timothy, I live by that prescription every day.

(On the occasion of The Christian Brothers Centennial year of winemaking, Brother Timothy chronicled this history of California winemaking. From the discovery by Spanish explorers of grapevines growing wild to the contemporary wine explosion, California's senior winemaker has summarized industry highlights in this original piece: "The Wine Industry, greater than the Gold Rush').

JUNE, 1982

Page 10: A windlass wine press. Taken from a sixteenth-cen- tury ...

George Yount, the legendary explorer and frontiersman,

planted the first vineyard in the Napa Valley on his ranch near

what is today the town of

Yountville.

William and Simpson

Thompson plant several newly imported wine

grape vars-ities—the first other than the Mission in the

Napa Valley—on

their Suscol land grant south of

Napa City.

William Wolfskill, a trapper from Tennessee who settled in the Napa Valley,

made 2880 gal-lons of wine this vintage. Grapes from his vine-yards were the first northern

California grapes

to be sold on the San Francisco

market.

150 Years of Napa Valley Grape Growing

N ,

Yount's annual production of

wine is approx- imately 200

gallons.

1846 18526,_. 1844 1838 Queen Victoria was crowned

"The New York Herald" became

the first U.S. newspaper to

employ European

correspondents.

China and the U.S. signed their

first treaty of peace, amity,

and commerce.

The Smithsonian Institution was

founded.

Elias Howe pat- ented his sewing

machine.

A suspension

bridge at Niagara Falls was

completed.

Harriet Beecher Stowe's "Uncle Tom's Cabin"

appeared.

Wells Fargo and Co. was founded.

F'et"`;',;',,,ttjp;,,...4:4, ■ ''';:-Vt,; ,..,. ' 4 ...• •-i, .4. • '.e..-,:- .. %,••••••:'s ...-'•', " . ' ..‘• `••••Z ̀''■ : ■•• •%. *". .1-.1 v.t.....; ot , ''.. et* -...• 4t iii±j 1 '''',11t. ! :0 ,■44 : kUlieilit

Dr. George Crane's Napa wines, made

from vitus yin-ifera cuttings

acquired from Agoston Harasz-

thy, are well received in

Europe.

A telegraph line from St. Helena to Calistoga was

completed.

The first Napa wine transported

outside the county's borders was shipped in this year. The

shipment consis- ted of 6 casks

and 600 bottles of Napa Valley

wine.

The first stone wine cellar in

Napa County was built by vintner John Patchett. Sam Brannan,

California's first millionaire, foun-ded the city of

Calistoga.

Charles Krug crushed grapes

with a press, the first used in

Napa County. The following year, Charles Krug winery is

founded.

The Glass Works, California's first glass manufac- • turing plant,

made the first wine bottle in

the state on June 16. The San Fran-

cisco plant employed 20

glassblowers and 45 other full time

workers.

Grape culture in California

employed more labor than any

other branch of farming. In this vintage, Napa Valley's 139

wineries pro-

duced 297,000 gallons of wine

and 4,000 gallons of brandy.

' A 1857 . '

1859 ..

1860

—1863

1865.. • . .•870 < `,-.. Louis Pasteur

proved that fer- mentation is

caused by living organisms.

Work on the Suez Canal began.

Abraham Lincoln is elected President.

South Carolina secedes from the Union in

protest.

Lincoln issued the Emancipa-

tion Proclamation. Lincoln deliv-

ered his "Gettysberg

Address" at the dedication of the

Gettysberg Cemetery.

Lincoln was assassinated.

Russia sold Alaska to the U.S. for $7.2

million.

Heinrich Schli- emann began to

excavate the ruins of the

ancient city of Troy, in western

Turkey.

John D. Rock- efeller founded

Standard Oil Company.

The Civil War ended.

Czar Alexander 11 began the eman- cipation of serfs

in Russia.

- •

Dr. Livingstone explored the

Congo. Charles Dickens'

"A Tale of Two Cities" was published.

I 0

Page 11: A windlass wine press. Taken from a sixteenth-cen- tury ...

Helicopters were used for the first time in the Napa Valley to apply sulphur to the

vineyards.

Twenty five wineries were in the Napa Valley. Of these, only twelve made

enough wine to sell outside the

Napa Valley.

A case of Napa Valley wine sold

for approx-imately $2.50.

The cost of ship-ping a case of wine overland from San Fran-

cisco to Chicago was $4.80.

By an act of the state legislature, the University of

California, Berkeley, under the auspices of Professor E.W. Hilgard, began research and instruction in

viticulture and enology.

"11111

4 ' NSA?

The Napa Valley, with an annual production of 5 million gallons

I from 14,031 acres of wine

grapes, and 140 wine cellars), accounted for

more than 25% of the state's wine

production.

The Great Earthquake hits California. In the

Napa Valley. more than

100,000 gallons of wine were lost from splintered

tanks.

The Volstead Act was passed, and the production, sale, or trans-

porting of alcoholic bever- ages in the U.S. was prohibited

by law. More than 700 Califor-nia wineries, 120 of them in the Napa Valley.

were affected.

Prohibition was repealed nation-ally. 380 wineries remained in Cal-

ifornia. In the Napa Valley, grape prices between 1919 and 1933 had declined from

$50/ton to $19.75/ ton.

The Napa Valley wine industry

was revitalized. More than 6 mil-

lion gallons of table wine was produced by 47

bonded wine-ries. Grape

prices per ton

reached approx-imately $100/ton.

1875 1 18801, 1888 I 1906 1920 1933. 1945.,' Captain Matthew Webb became the first person to swim across

the English Channel (21

hours, 45 min.).

Mark Twain pub- lished "The

Adventures of Tom Sawyer."

Canned fruits and meats first appeared in

stores.

New York streets were first lighted

by and electricity.

Dostoevsky pub- lished "The

Brothers Karamozov".

George Eastman perfected his "Kodak" box

camera.

London's "The Financial Times"

was first published.

President The- odore Roosevelt visited the Canal Zone (Panama), the first time a U.S. president

ventured outside the country while

in office.

The first French Grand Prix car race was held.

The 19th Amend- ment, granting

women the right to vote, took

effect.

Russian Civil War ended.

First airmail flight from New

York to San Francisco.

The first U.S. air- craft carrier was

launched.

Popular movies of the year were

"King Kong", "Cavalcade"

(Academy Award), and

"Queen Christina".

End of World War 11.

George Orwell published "Ani-

mal Farm"; Herman Hesse published "The

Glass Bead Game".

Rogers and Hammerstein's

"Carousel" opened in New York.

Martin Luther King emerged as

leader of cam- paign for

desegregation.

Hit songs of the year included "Hound Dog",

"Don't Be Cruel", "I Could Have Danced All

Night", and "Blue Suede Shoes".

John F. Kennedy elected

President.

The U.S. launched the first weather

satellite.

Harper Lee pub- lished "To Kill A Mockingbird".

In the Napa Val- ley, winemaking

became the principal indus-

try and wine grapes the top

valued agri- cultural crop.

Average grape price was $184/ ton,

Major anti-war protests were

held in the U.S. over the Vietnam

conflict.

The U.S. lands the first people on the moon.

Napa Valley wines stepped into the interna-tional spotlight when a few of them scored

very well in a highly publicized blind tasting in

Paris, which included both California and French wines.

The first female cadets were

admitted to the U.S. Military Academy at West Point.

The first tele-vised debate

between incum-bent President

and a presiden-tial candidate

was held (Ford vs. Carter).

The first Napa Valley Wine Auc-

tion was held and $140,000 was

raised for two local health

facilities.

Napa Valley became the first region in Califor-

nia to become an approved

viticultural area.

Minutes after Ronald Reagan was sworn In as President, Iran

freed 52 Ameri-cans who had

been held hos- tage In that country for 444 days.

rNiOn fsl acreag

Pe !sY 1'1

proxfrpk* ierhttlAabiva

' 40 UV4

& f, v NtKetr5- A? 5 ki

lqbe, •

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A eft 4,3! TABLE 1

WORLD VINEYARD ACREAGE BY COUNTRY 2006 - 2009 AND % CHANGE 2009/2006

ACRES (000) (1)

% OF TOTAL ACREAGE % CHANGE COUNTRY (2) 2006 2007 2008 2009 2009 (3) 2006/2009 (3)

WORLD TOTAL 18,178,969 18,174,171 18,194,466 17,926,094 100.0% SPAIN 2.805,151 2,861,055 2,865,200 2,724,700 15.2% (2.9%) FRANCE 2,066,561 2,129,724 2,096,285 1,966,510 11.0% (4.8%) ITALY 1,850,300 1,771,055 1,741,331 1,712,607 9.6% (7.4%) CHINA 1,042,769 1,091,357 1.122,100 1,200,000 6.7% 15.1% TURKEY 1,269,674 1.197.471 1,192,972 1,200,000 6.7% (5.5%) UNITED STATES 937,179 936,509 937,399 943,750 5,3% 0.7% IRAN 778,365 778,365 778,365 778,365 4.3% 0.0% ARGENTINA 551.117 558,067 559.802 560,000 3.1% 1.6% PORTUGAL 549,867 550,045 550,292 536,270 3.0% (2.5%) CHILE 444,780 449,722 449.722 449,722 2.5% 1.1% ROMANIA 470,216 463,631 479,468 441,153 2.5% (6.2%) AUSTRALIA 390,600 430,487 427,718 402,639 2.2% 3.1% EGYPT 363,904 369,066 380,425 385,000 2.1% 5.8% MOLDOVA 346,896 341,655 337,227 337,000 1.9% (2.9%) SOUTH AFRICA 278,524 284,165 321,230 325,000 1.8% 16.7% BULGARIA 318,406 297.363 266,138 265,000 1.5% (16,8%) UZBEKISTAN 250,006 245.123 252,536 250.000 1.4% (00%) GERMANY 245,054 246,364 246,359 247.704 1.4% 1.1% BRAZIL 217,000 193,413 196,133 200,000 1.1% (7 8%) HUNGARY 186.892 185,967 185,967 195,000 1.1% 4.3% GREECE 201,871 197,680 197,680 192,000 1.1% (4.9%) ALGERIA 185,787 189.659 185,325 185,000 1.0% (0.4%) UKRAINE 187,302 175,935 175,194 174,700 1.0% (8. 7% ) SERBIA 153,575 155,673 163,086 163,300 0.9% 6.3% INDIA 163,086 160,615 159,132 160.000 0.9% (1.9%) AFGHANISTAN 123,550 123,550 123,550 123,550 0.7% 0.0% GEORGIA 108,971 101,805 114,407 116,000 0.6% 6.5% MOROCCO 140,600 141,835 116,807 114,000 0.6% (18.9%) AUSTRIA 108,598 109.223 112,732 112.951 0.6% 4.0% RUSSIA 109,465 109,960 107,736 107,000 0.6% (2.3%) CROATIA 76.023 80,194 83,374 84,000 0.5% 10.5% SYRIA 81.840 82.433 82,433 82,433 0.5% 0.7% TAJIKISTAN 79,813 81,049 78,934 79,000 0.4% (1.0%) NEW ZEALAND 56,020 62.754 72,600 76,928 0.4% 37.3% TUNISIA 71,659 61,775 71,659 71,600 0.4% (0.1%) TURKMENISTAN 69,188 69,188 69,188 69,188 0.4% 0.0% MEXICO 72,460 72,321 64,137 64,000 0.4% (11.7%) MACEDONIA 61,775 52,662 53,561 53,600 0.3% (13.2%) JAPAN 46.702 45,961 45,961 45,961 0.3% (1.6%) SOUTH KOREA 47,562 46,561 45,071 45,000 0.3% (5.4%) PAKISTAN 34,265 37,863 41,817 41,800 0.2% 22.0% CZECH REPUBLIC 38,347 42,027 40,282 40,282 0.2% 5.0% SLOVENIA 40,594 39,749 39,749 39,749 0.2% (2.1%) SWITZERLAND 36,781 36.687 36,744 36.744 0.2% (0.1%) ARMENIA 34,836 34.834 35.558 35.600 0.2% 2.2% LEBANON 31,950 32,617 32.617 32,617 0.2% 2.1% YEMEN 30,996 30,690 32.563 32,600 0.2% 5.2% PERU 28,436 30.163 30,163 30,000 0.2% 5.5% SAUDI ARABIA 27,927 28,849 28,849 28,849 0.2% 3.3% MONTENEGRO 24,710 24,710 24,710 24,710 0.1% 0 0% SLOVAKIA 29,111 28,434 23,845 23,845 0.1% (18 1%) CANADA 25,540 23,744 23,440 23,440 0.1% (8.2%) KAZAKHSTAN 21,498 20,756 22,733 22,700 0.1% 5 6% AZERBAIJAN 18,523 16,106 21,883 22,000 0.1% 18.8%

Copyr:ghi Trade Data Anc Analyses (TDAI

PAGE 29

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TABLE 1 WORLD VINEYARD ACREAGE BY COUNTRY

2006 - 2009 AND % CHANGE 2009/2006 ACRES (000) (1)

% OF TOTAL ACREAGE % CHANGE

COUNTRY (2) 2006 2007 2008 2009 2009 (3) 200612009 (3)

WORLD TOTAL 18,178,969 18,174,171 18,194,466 17,926,094 100.0% (1.4%)

URUGUAY 21,191 21,379 21,011 21,200 0.1% 0.0% ALBANIA 17,087 18,525 21.004 21,000 0.1% 22.9% CYPRUS 22,365 20,247 20,823 21,000 0.1% (6.1%) IRAQ 19,768 19,768 19,768 19,768 0.1% 0.0% LIBYA 19,768 19,768 19,768 19,768 0.1% 0.0% PALESTINE 17,737 18,953 19,521 19,500 0.1% 9.9% KYRGYZSTAN 16,267 16,363 15,567 15,500 0.1% (4.7%) ISRAEL 14,579 13,591 14,826 14,826 0.1% 1.7% BOSNIA 13,096 12,602 13,591 13,591 0.1% 3.8% BOLIVIA 12,212 12,424 12,424 12,424 0.1% 1.7% NAMIBIA 11,120 11,120 11,120 11,120 0.1% 0.0% JORDAN 9,009 7,633 7,685 7,685 0.0% (14.7%) THAILAND 6,919 6,919 6,919 6,919 0.0% 0.0% TANZANIA 6,425 6,425 6,425 6,425 0.0% 0.0% MADAGASCAR 5,683 6,178 6,178 6,178 0.0% 8.7% COLOMBIA 5,305 5,876 5,916 5,916 0.0% 11.5% GUATEMALA 4,942 4,942 4,942 4,942 0.0% 0.0% VIET NAM 4,942 4.942 4,942 4,942 0.0% 0.0% ETHIOPIA 4,448 4,448 4,448 4.448 0.0% 0.0% LUXEMBOURG 3,425 3,425 3,459 3,459 0.0% 1.0% VENEZUELA 2,271 2.654 2,654 2,654 0.0% 16.9% MALTA 2,471 1,977 1,977 1,977 0.0% (20.0%) UNITED KINGDOM 1,853 1,730 1,730 1,700 0.0% (8.3%) PARAGUAY 1,174 1,236 1,236 1,236 0.0% 5.3% ZIMBABWE 865 890 890 890 0.0% 2.9% PHILIPPINES 618 618 618 618 0.0% 0.0% ECUADOR 198 210 210 210 0.0% 6.2% BAHRAIN 124 124 124 124 0.0% 0.4% BELGIUM 148 161 124 124 0.0% (16.4%) NETHERLANDS 99 124 124 124 0.0% 25.5% HONDURAS 74 86 86 86 0.0% 16.0% UNITED ARAB EMR 69 74 74 74 0.0% 7.0% REUNION 49 49 49 49 0.0% (0.8%) KUWAIT 25 25 25 25 0.0% 1.2% QATAR 25 25 25 25 0.0% 1.2%

'WORLD TOTAL 18,178,969 18,174,171 18,194,466 17,926,094 100.0% (1.4%)1

(1) Based on UN Food & Agriculture Organization data for 2006-2008 and Eurostat dafa. MA estimates and reports from individual countries for 2009.

(2) Ranked by vineyards acreage 2009 (3) 0.0% indicates less than .1%.

Copynghl Trade Oata And Analysis (TDA)

PAGE 30

1 14

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(die. Pr•Avi,tim TABLE 3

WORLD WINE PRODUCTION BY COUNTRY 2006 - 2009 AND % CHANGE 200912006

(LITERS 000)

% OF TOTAL LITERS % CHANGE COUNTRY (1) 2006 2007 2008 2009 2009 2006/2009

'WORLD TOTAL 28,729,000 27,128,800 27,173,900 26,759,900 100.00% (6.85%)1

FRANCE 5,302.500 4,654,700 4,280,600 4,700,000 17.56% (11.36%) ITALY 5,460,000 4,918,100 5,047,000 4,650,000 17.38% (14,84%) SPAIN 4,367,900 4,207,000 4,190,900 3,800,000 14.20% (13.00%) UNITED STATES (2) 2,438,300 2,510,800 2,431,500 2,777,200 10.38% 13.90% ARGENTINA 1,539,600 1,504,600 1,470,000 1,210,000 4.52% (21.41%) AUSTRALIA 1,325,000 955,000 1,237,000 1,171,000 4.38% (1162%) CHILE 844,800 828,000 869,000 987.000 3.69% 16.83% GERMANY 899,500 1.036,300 999,100 928,000 3.47% 3.17% SOUTH AFRICA 939,800 851,600 763,300 780,700 2,92% (16 93%) PORTUGAL 754,200 604,900 562,000 600,000 2.24% (20.45%) RUSSIA 628,000 600,000 600,000 600,000 2.24% (4.46%) ROMANIA 501,400 528,900 678,600 560,000 2.09% 11.69% CHINA 392,000 424,900 458,100 460,000 1.72% 17.35% MOLDOVA 291,800 374,400 397,900 397,600 1.49% 36.26% GREECE 351,100 387,300 360,000 350,000 1.31% (0.31%) HUNGARY 327,100 322,200 340,000 340,000 1.27% 3.94% BRAZIL 237,200 240,000 240,000 240.000 0.90% 1.18% AUSTRIA 225,600 262,800 299,400 234,600 0.88% 3.99% UKRAINE 216,000 210,000 210,000 210,000 0.78% (2.78%) NEW ZEALAND 133.200 147,600 205,200 205,200 0.77% 54.05% BULGARIA 175,700 179,600 160,600 200,000 0.75% 13.83% CROATIA 120,000 120,000 120,000 120,000 0.45% 0.00% SWITZERLAND 110,800 103.900 107,500 110,000 0.41% (0,72%) MEXICO 105,000 100,000 100,000 100,000 0.37% (4.76%) URUGUAY 92,300 100,000 100,000 100,000 0.37% 8.34% GEORGIA 95,000 90.000 90,000 90.000 0 34% (5,26%) JAPAN 92,000 90,000 90,000 90,000 0.34% (2.17%) MACEDONIA 90.000 90,000 90,000 90,000 0.34% 0.00% SLOVENIA 83,200 85,700 75,200 83,000 0.31% (0.24%) ALGERIA 80,000 80,000 80,000 80,000 0.30% 0.00% CZECH REPUBLIC 43,400 82,100 77,300 60,000 0.22% 38.25% PERU 60,000 60,000 60,000 60,000 0.22% 0.00% CANADA 50,000 50,000 50,000 50,000 0.19% 0.00% SLOVAKIA 32,500 35,500 43,100 36,500 0.14% 12.31% MOROCCO 41,900 35,000 35,000 35,000 0.13% (16 47% , TUNISIA 34,000 30,000 30,000 30,000 0.11% (11.76'/c; UZBEKISTAN 23,100 25,000 25,000 25,000 0.09% 8.23% KAZAKHSTAN 19,600 20,000 20,000 20,000 0 07% 2.04% TURKMENISTAN 24,000 20,000 20,000 20,000 0.07% (16.67% ALBANIA 17,000 17,000 17,000 17,000 0.06% 0.00% LEBANON 15,000 15,000 15,000 15,000 0.06% 0.00% TURKEY 25,300 14,000 14,000 14,000 0.05% (44.66%; CYPRUS 21,800 14,900 14,700 13,000 0.05% (40.37%; LUXEMBOURG 12,400 14,200 13.000 13,000 0.05% 4.84% BELARUS 12,500 12,500 12,500 12,500 0.05% 0.00% MADAGASCAR 9,000 9,000 9,000 9,000 0.03% 0.00% BOLIVIA 7,000 7,000 7,000 7,000 0.03% 0.00% LITHUANIA 7,200 7,000 7,000 7,000 0.03% (2.78%)

Copyright. Trade Data And Analysis (TDA) PAGE 33

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TABLE 3 WORLD WINE PRODUCTION BY COUNTRY

2006 - 2009 AND % CHANGE 2009/2006 (LITERS 000)

% OF TOTAL LITERS % CHANGE COUNTRY (1) 2006 2007 2008 2009 2009 2006/2009

ISRAEL 6,500 6,500 6,500 6,500 0.02% 0.00% LATVIA 6,000 6,20C 6.700 6,100 0.02% 1.67% PARAGUAY 6,000 6,000 6,000 6,000 0.02% 0.00% TAJIKISTAN 6,200 6,000 6,000 6,000 0.02% (3.23%) ARMENIA 5,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 0.02% 0.00% AZERBAIJAN 5,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 0.02% 0.00% BOSNIA 5,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 0.02% 0.00% MALTA 6,500 4,800 3,200 4,000 0.01% (38.46%) EGYPT 2,600 2,600 2,600 2,600 0.01% 0.00% UNITED KINGDOM 2,500 2,000 2,200 2,200 0.01% (12,00%) KYRGYZSTAN 1,800 2,000 2,000 2,000 0.01% 11.11% ESTONIA 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 0.00% 0.00% BELGIUM 200 200 200 200 0.00% 0.00%

WORLD TOTAL 28 729,000 27,128,800 27,173,900 26,759,900 100.00% (6.85%)1

(1) Ranked by quantity in 2009 (2) Includes domestic wine production. Does not include processing of imported

bulk wine. See appendix 5.

Copyright: Trade Data And Analysis (TDA) PAGE 34