A lecture/seminar to discuss the changes in the 1960s

Decade of Change1960s

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Material Culture Analysis

Art, Philosophy and Aesthetics

Principles in Aesthetics - The ideal i.e. Beauty, Taste, Truth, Morality, Judgement, Pleasure and Un-pleasure

David Jules Prown’s Method outlined in ‘Mind and Matter. An Introduction to Material Culture and Methodology (1982)

3 Stages - Description, Deduction and Speculation

Recap

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Areas to be covered: The Decade of Change 1960s

Aim: To understand why design matters from the changes within the 60s

Learning Outcomes:

By the end of this lecture, you will be able to identify key movements and the effect it had on design.

How people reacted to the changes of the 1960s decade.

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Decade of Change 1960s

Task

Why do you think the 60’s is relevant to

your subject specialism?

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What Happened?

How?

Why?

When? Who?

Fashion

Interior

Textiles

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Many people look back on the 60's and purely see drugs, war, and social descent, but it was a period that represented so much more. The 60's was a time of the peace movement, social rebellion and the quest for freedom of expression. The 60's had it's own style that still often appears in todays fashions. 

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Early 1960’s

http://cdn.straightfromthea.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/alg_freedom-mlk.jpg

http://www.theguardian.com/film/gallery/2009/jan/23/nixon-on-film

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Lyndon_B._Johnson_-_Official_White_House_Portrait.jpg

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/444871269415481310/

https://artsenglish.wikispaces.com/Vimee+Motown

It symbolized a new day: its energetic product reflected the striving toward progress and optimism of a long-oppressed people and the nation as a whole.

‘The Sound of Young America’. RS

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https://cherrieswriter.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p25.jpg

In 1962 the Cuban Missile Crisis was a part of the Cold War.Cuba and Russia are communist countries.Therefore Russia decided to set up nuclear bomb aimed at America.

http://www.aptv.org/ulphoto/wpt_1347484968.jpg

Nikita Khrushchev Che Guevara Kennedy

In February 1965, the Vietcong attacked American air bases and killed American soldiers. President Johnson declared war against North Vietnam.

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Legacy of the 60’s has been important for the development of society and culture in Britain

Rediscovery of poverty

It was marked by pop music, rockers, flower power, the Vietnam war and the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament

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Key features of the new era

• Critique of the ‘Establishment’.

• The beginnings of the working class rise to careers in the theatre and BBC, publication and the Design Industry.

• Encouragement of more people into University , Teaching and other sorts of training.

• Period of economic growth and leadership in manufacture.

http://img.dooyoo.co.uk/GB_EN/orig/0/1/6/3/4/163411.jpg

http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/july/20/newsid_3728000/3728225.stm

1957: Britons 'have never had it so good'The British Prime Minister, Harold Macmillan, has made an optimistic speech telling fellow Conservatives that "most of our people have never had it so good".

Macmillan painted a picture of Britain's economy while urging wage restraint and warning inflation was the country's most important problem of the post-war era.

He reminded his audience not to forget "rationing, shortages, inflation, and one crisis after another in our international trade" under a Labour government.

Increased production in major industries such as steel, coal and motor cars had led to a rise in wages, export earnings and investment

Harold Macmillan bought down the rate of income tax by almost a shilling in the pound in the budget of 1959.

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From Teddy Boys to the Rockers

http://www.the59clubla.com/?author=1&paged=10

http://imgarcade.com/1/the-rockers-1960s/

http://www.stthomasu.ca/~pmccorm/modsandrockers3.html

During the 1960s the look evolved and many Teddy boys turned in to rockers or more insultingly, "greasers". As the effect of post-World War II rationing lessened there was increased affluence; young people could buy motorbikes and were heavily influenced by the influx of music and film from America.

MODS VS ROCKERS

http://www.viceland.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/mods-vs-rockers.jpg

http://www.3quarksdaily.com www.pinterest.com

It became a British youth subculture movement. It was focused on fashion and music. This where young people dressed in "modern" ways that were not common at the time. As mod teens and young adults began using their disposable income to buy stylish clothes, the first youth-targeted boutique clothing stores opened in London in the Carnaby Street and King's Road districts.

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The fashion war of the 60’s was between the Mods (neat dress/Italian scooters) and Rockers (leather gear/roaring bikers) in Britain.

They fought each other on the beaches at Hastings on August Bank Holiday 1964

The Mod revolution enabled working class youths with disposable incomes (working in a bank or a shop) to wear sharp Italian suits with narrow lapels and to take their street identity into the working environment.

The film Quadrophenia was made in 1979 and is filmed around the weekend in August 1964 in Hastings and celebrates some of the style and music of the period. RS

Vespas were a Italian brand and had their largest global market in the 60’s. The appeal of the Vespa to the style-conscious mods was the fuel efficiency and the weather protection. Their counterparts, the rockers rode classic British motorcycles and needed to wear leathers against the elements.

Mods would modify their Vespas, adding lights, mascots, accessories, various racks and crash bars. A new lifestyle evolved in the UK, with thousands attending scooter rallies.

RShttp://www.lauramacij.com/2014/09/1960s-fever.html

Lambretta was a line of motor scooters originally manufactured in Milan, Italy, by Innocenti.

Lambretta was an iconic vehicle of the 1960s when they became the adopted vehicle of choice for the UK youth-culture known as Mods.

It was the golden age for style gurus. Rapidly rising through fame through the medium of boutique or salon.

John Stephan outside The MOD MALE shop catering for suit and scooter clientele in July 1964.

Two of the biggest names in Swinging London fashion…

Vidal Sassoon gives Mary Quant a cut.

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Harold Wilson presenting the Show Business of the Year awards to the Beatles in 1964. Writers, artists,

and performers all became involved in the rising Western culture of protest. Folk singers took the lead, among them.

Dylan’s The Times They Are a-Changin’ became an anthem of protest.

After 13 years in opposition, the LabourParty gained power in the 1964 British General Election, promoting the image of being in touch with modern times.

Backed by their manager Brian Epstein, The Beetles invaded the states in 1946. RS

‘There really was a vacuum in those days. There was simply nothing for young people. The older generation were dying to revert to pre-war ways, but… we wanted to go forward, to do something new. The art schools were the great forcing house of talent not just clothes but music….design, food, lifestyle, politics and everything’. Mary Quant in Gardiner J (1999) from the bomb to the beatles: the changing face of post-war Britain 1945 -1965, London, Collins and Brown p134

Carnaby Street and the Kings Road.

Swinging Sixties

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBq7icqGxB4

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http://www.google.co.uk/search?rlz=1T4ADRA_enGB488GB488&q=Mary%20Quant%201960s

http://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=&rlz=1T4ADRA_enGB488GB488&q=paco%20rabanne%201960s

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A boutique called Granny Takes a Trip had opened its doors in December 1965. Behind the boutique were graphic designer Nigel Weymouth  and his girlfriend Sheila Cohen.

Her collection constituted a large part of early stock at Granny's - mostly second hand Victoriana and oriental garments. Garments had to be either colourful or unusual or both.

The name of the boutique was giving away its policy - 'Granny' symbolized the influence of the past, and 'Trip' , a colourful world of the rapidly growing hippie movement and its drug of choice - LSD

Probably the most iconic garment made by Granny Takes a Trip - William Morris chrysantenum print jacket as worn by John Lennon

George Harrison wearing William Morris Golden Lily pattern jacket from GTAT, 1967

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Granny Takes a Trip jacket from 1967. It is made of William Morris 'bachelor's button' pattern, which was first produced by Morris & Co. in 1892.

http://dandyinaspic.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/granny-takes-trip.html

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http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/article6467688.ece/ALTERNATES/w460/bridget+riley

http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Arts/Arts_/Pictures/2009/8/18/1250584019928/Blaze-Study-1962-by-Bridg-005.jpg

Foale and Tuffin used Op Art influences along with Mary Quant.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yeUXPaeu0f0/TmO0PeioDXI/AAAAAAAAAhA/MisGhG7Sx2w/s1600/1.jpg RS

http://www.lauramacij.com/2014/09/1960s-fever.html

Edie SedgwickKnown as Andy Warhol’ssuperstar

Julie Newmaractress

• Big earings• Pale lipstick• Heavy eye makeup RS

1960s Furniture Design.

Furniture design in the 1960s developed from new techniques including injection moulded plastic, polycarbonates, fibre glass, water filled plastics. It was bright, colourful, space saving (as in the Robin Day chairs above) or statement making like Eero Aarnios’s Ball Chair (above right). It was also playful and child like. Levels of chairs and seating were much lower and closer to the ground. The interior space was for fun and pleasure.Domestic microwave ovens were cutting edge technology in the swinging sixties.

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Biba was established by Barbara Hulanicki in 1964 as small catalogue business for young girls in Kensington.She then established a shop and later moved into the old Derry and Tom’s department store in High Street, Kensington – where the original Art Deco features of the building were incorporated into her graphics and shop fitting as well as part of the package design. An iconic 60s fashion retail outlet this lasted until the 1970s.

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Task 2

http://www.american-buddha.com/a-acid21.jpg

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Flower power and the hippie movement at large in the United States reached in 1967, with a march on the Pentagon. More than 100,000 people gathered in Washington D.C. for that peaceful Vietnam War protest

Celia BirtwellZandra Rhodes

Celia Birtwell and Zandra Rhodes were both significant designers of the late 1960s. They used textile screen printing techniques to create their fabrics. Zandra Rhodes then allowed the fabric print to dictate the shape of the final garment.Celia Birtwell formed a partnership with Fashion Designer Ossie Clark who reintroduced the bias cut of the1930s with soft crepe fabrics with contemporary motifs. Both designers used the flowing unstructured styles of the hippies to inform their collections.

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http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02321/the-beatles_2321270b.jpg

http://www.pophistorydig.com

http://a.abcnews.go.com

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