DRIVING at a DISTANCE JUNE 2016

Lisa Bonker, PhD, CCFTwww.inthezoneagility.cominthezoneagility@gmail.com

PLEASE BRING LOTS OF GOOD TREATS AND TOYS AND AN OPEN MIND

There are different teams at different levels attending the seminar. Please be aware that we will try to spend the same amount of time with each team. That being said, I will work the skills I believe each team needs the most. So not everyone will be running the same sequences. For example, I will have a sequence setup and some teams will be pushed for bonus handling and others may be working a turn. It will all depend on the levels and goals of each team. Also, if you are having start line issues, or sniffing issue, we can work the ‘issue but please realize that is part of your time and you may get to run the sequence once.

ELEMENTS OF TRAINING DISTANCEThere are many elements to training and handling distance. CUESThe first step is to have a clear, consistent cueing system! The farther away from your dog you are, the clearer you have to be with your handling. So before you start training for distance, you should think about cues! Don’t worry we are going to go over these in great detail at the seminar

A: Handler needs to recognize where and when the dog must be given a cue. (Location and timing of cue) 80% of the time, I cue my dog the obstacle before a change of direction needs to happen. A change of direction can be a turn, come in, go out or even a go if needed. There are

times when I cue and want an instant change of direction (Switch on the ground or some outs).

B: Handler needs to understand what cue(s) should be given. (verbal, body, what motion). A cue consists of up to 3 different properties; verbal commands, body language and motion. Saying the right words, giving the right body language (shoulders, arm, feet, head, eyes) and movement (acceleration/deceleration, stride length) all in a clear, crisp, consistent, calm, confident way while maintaining criteria, running with conviction and staying connected with your dog---all work together to provide a proper cue. If you can cue properly, your dog will be confident and go faster and u can have more distance !! Don’t worry if this seems like a foreign language We will talk about during the seminar !Lets talk about cues. It is a good idea to get a training notebook and write down your cues.

Body Language: What do you do with your body to tell your dog where to go? I use my arm (hand) to draw the path I want my dog to go! I use my arm and hand to ‘point’ to where I want my dog to go. Arm out-stay out! Arm in Come in! That is my mantra If my arm is out (on my side or in front of me) , my dogs know to keep moving on the path they are on. If I drop my arm (arm in) then I want my dog to move their path closer to mine. As soon as my dog is on the closer path, I bring it back up (forward, out) to direct my dog to the next obstacle. The only time I drop my arm and pump is when my dog is on the dogwalk, otherwise, my arm is always up directly my dog where to go.

Pay attention to where you are looking. I look where I want my dog to go—not at my dog! If I look where I want my dog to go, my body usually falls in line too !

Of course you need to pay attention to your shoulders, hips, and feet also. You want everything about you to be directing your dog to go in the correct direction and obstacle.

Use your body to draw the path you want your dog to run on. My arm is drawing the path and my head/eyes are looking at where I want my dog to go. I don’t look at my dog when we are running. I look at where I want my dog to go. I will look at the mouth of the tunnel, the jump, the hoop etc. Run with Intent!! Don’t flap your arms up and down. Keep your arm firm and crisp. Let

me reiterate how important it is to watch where you want to go and not look at your dog. If you are looking at your dog, most likely your shoulders are opening up and giving your dog conflicting cues. If you are ‘hard eyeing” “staring” at your dog, it can be not only intimidating to the dog, it also can appear that you are not confident where you want them to go. They will be slower and less confident. Your body usually follows your eyeballs. So if your eyeballs are looking where you want your dog to go, most of the time the rest of your body follows. I am not saying to never look at your dog, I am saying you have good peripheral vision and can use that to ‘know’ where your dog is. Dogs have even better peripheral vision so that can see you too even if they are far away from you. You have to trust your dog!! Make sure you are standing straight and not bending over. Also try to keep your arm low .or at least not higher than your shoulders. I think in terms of bowling… I bowl my dog to obstacles. This helps me keep my arm crisp, lower and I follow through. I want my arm/finger (and my whole body) to be drawing the path I want my dog to run on. Motion: What motion do you have to do or change to direct your dog? When I want my dogs to continue moving forward, then I will keep moving forward. I want my dogs to know that when I am accelerating or maintain a speed and long stride they should keep moving forward. When I decelerate or shorten my stride a turn in coming up. With my motion, I will move towards my dog applying pressure when I want to push them out. Conversely, when I want my dogs to come close to me, I decrease pressure and drop my arm. Arm out –go out (or stay out) –Arm in COME IN !! How many times have you seen (or done yourself..we all do it) someone running up to a

line (chances, gamblers, jackpot, etc) and stop and their dog stops! That was because the handler stopped moving and there was a change in motion. So thinking in terms of distance, I try to keep a constant pace (either running, walking etc) when I want my dog to stay on the path they are on. When I need a change of direction, I will change my motion.

Verbal Cues: What words do you use to tell your dogs where to go? Each verbal cue should mean one thing and one thing only! In the diagrams below there are descriptions of my verbal cues. Scratch out my words and replace them with what words you use! Directional commands come before obstacle names. You can say GO TUNNEL…. Don’t say Tunnel GO.

HERE: 180s Take the next obstacle and turn toward me. Cue occurs prior to obstacle of the turn. Arm is tight close to body but still draw path I expect my dog to collect prior to the jump or hoop.GO- Continue moving forward on the path you are onCOME or (IN) : Take the next obstacle and turn toward me.. Cue occurs prior to obstacle of the turn I do not expect my dog to collect but to turn towards me but move forward.SWITCH Turn away from me TightlyFLIP Take the next obstacle and curve away from me. This is like ‘Switch Out’

For this exercise, I am concentrating on the commands for 2-3, 3-4The command for 2-3 should occur prior to the dog executing 2. GO Handle from both the left and right

Dog on Left HERE 2-3Dog on Right SWITCH 2-3

Dog on Left: 2-3 COME 3-4 Here (tight turn)

Dog on Right, 2-3 FLIP, 3-4 Here

Dog on Left- 2-3 Come, 3-4 Flip if I get command out before 3

Dog on Right OUT

You want all of your cues- verbal, body and motion to be consistent all telling your dog the same place you want them to go!!

GROUNDWORKThere is soooo much you can do to train

agility and distance without agility equipment. I do a lot of shadow handling. I teach my dogs to follow my body language as I walk around and do Switches/Here and various crosses. I use food to do this. I also play ‘space games’ where I walk in and out of my dog’s space-like we are dancing. I walk into the dog and the dog backs up. I then back up and the dog moves forward into my space. I also pivot and use my legs to move my dogs around me. Here is a video of shadow handling/spacegames:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTF4kzGe-IA

So in my videos, I have food in both hands and am feeding my dogs when they turn away from me ( I am saying switch.. you may not hear it, but I verbally say  SWITCH every time I am turning my dog away from me.  This is my foundation for switch).I also feed my dog for turning with me. I want my dog to walk with me and turn with my accordingly. 

I also do a lot of groundwork with my toys. I play with purpose. My dogs learn so much about my body language and verbal cues by the way I throw my toy. I work skills like go, come, out, turns etc with toys without equipment.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vfQILFXQ0w&feature=youtu.behttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8_1dcoJHac&feature=youtu.behttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKiBnl4zP34&feature=youtu.behttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vQKc9sv1mA&feature=youtu.be

STARTLINE & LEARNING TO DRIVE TO TARGET (TOY)IT is very important that you ONLY use a verbal command to release your dog. I do not want to release my dog on motion—any motion—my arm, my body, me moving. There are times when I have fallen; there are times when I swing my arms; there are times when I lead out and

don’t like where I lead out to so I move—so my dog needs to stay until I verbally release dog. You need to be very cognizant that you do not verbally release and move simultaneously….as this will teach your dog to release on motion ! Verbal release ONLY !!

I have a very different startline training philosophy than many. When I am training startlines, I reward the release…not the stay. I do not reward the stays; I do not say STAY. I train it and trust it. The end. I believe the two different perspectives puts the dog in a different mindset. My dogs are eagerly waiting for my release so that I have a powerful quick release. They are excited. When continually rewarding the stay and saying “stay”, many dogs are ‘thinking’ about staying and can be slow at the start and a little anxious because they are worried about staying and not thinking about the release. Make sense??

I also do not care if my dog sits, stands or downs-as long as they stay until released.

So how do I train it? I start out being in motion. When I stop, inevitably my dog will sit or down. I say “OK” and give them a treat for getting up! I start out by doing a few quick releases..as soon as the dog’s but hits the ground, I say OK and give a treat. Then I start adding in duration of the sit so they have to sit longer in order to get released and rewarded.

Remember—NO MOTION.. only verbal command. If your dog already has a startline or stay (or something close to it )…they may not get up on your verbal release only because they don’t understand it is only a verbal release and they want to get up on your motion !

When I am leading out, I look at my dog’s eyeballs before I release. I have just walked away and turned my back on my dog. So I want to reestablish the connection by looking at their eyeballs.

If you want to say “SIT’ or “DOWN’ go ahead.. and if you feel the need to say “STAY” go ahead but only ONCE !!

Startline Routine

1. Dog sits, downs or stands

2. Lead out or at least stand up

3. Re-establish eye contact with your dog

4. Verbally Release your dog – You do NOT move

5. Dog starts moving

6. THEN you can move !!!

Make sure you move to different locations- ahead of your dog, behind your dog, to the side of your dog

-Add motion-Add duration-Add toy

Here are some videos. They are long…. But important. Some information is redundant..some is not. So if you have time..watch them all

I chopped off my head when filming so you cant see my eyeballs. Sorry.

VIDEO 1: Teaching Startline with Dynamic: https://youtu.be/VqisTFCGYaADy does not have a startline so this is a good video to watch to show how I train startlines !

VIDEO 2: Tandem This video is a continuation of startline work with added movement. https://youtu.be/aHTbWIQ27Dw

VIDEO 3: Syn. Syn is going deaf..so I have to release her with motion. It is a learning experience for both of us. In this video, I show how to start using toys to train startlines. https://youtu.be/eITyVfHQr7A

VIDEO 4: JP. This video shows JP startline training using a Lotus Ball. https://youtu.be/ahyae17QevI

VIDEO 5: Startline Routine with Rev and Tandem https://youtu.be/M5FxFmYX0xw

VIDEO 6: Startline with Toy outside with JP, Rev and Tandem https://youtu.be/nyct2F4rxmw

So startlines and stopped contacts are similarly trained ! Dog should stay on contact until verbally released. So we will go through the same routine with contacts as we do with contacts.

When training contacts, I use a toy as a target to get my dog to look and drive forward. I will place a target out after my mat, bench or board and my dog must stay until released. I sometimes throw the toy also and expect my dog to stay on contact until released. I make sure that I can do these things on the ground first with no equipment before asking my dogs to do this on equipment.

I also will put a target (toy) out if I am having a hard time getting my dog to move ahead of me.

Target, Lure and Rewards video explanation: https://youtu.be/s_qNfqpxj8A

LEADOUTS

Do not always lead out to the same location. You need to strategically decide where to lead out depending on the course.

When there is a line on the course (chances, gamblers, fast, jackpot) do not lead out close to the line. Give yourself room to move!

When there is a turn at the beginning of the course, I try to lead out to the turn location with my feet pointing towards where the dog is going nextSometimes rear-crossing can give you a better handling position. So think outside the box !When I lead out, I try to have my feet pointed where I want the dog to go.

Practice One jump/hoop exercises to teach lead out positions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yjp2OdDEB0

INDEPENDENT CONTACTSIn order to have good distance, you need

to have independent contacts! This means that you do not have to be right next to the contact in order for your dog to correctly perform the contact (either running or stopped). You also need to be able to send your dog off a contact from any location.RACETRACK AGILITY TRAINING

Now you are ready to start training distance with agility equipment! In order to get distance and speed, I set up race tracks. I set big loops and lines to get my dog driving away from me. Within my racetrack I have other skills to work on too. But I try to start out with doing something fast and fun via a big loop or line and then I will work turns and other skills. I use tunnels a lot when training distance to get my dogs driving to a tunnel first, then exchanging it for hoops, jumps or other equipment. Even with my Elite dogs, I usually do a big loop first, then do some turning exercises and if I have a dog left, then will do a big loop again.

CONNECTION WITH YOUR DOG

Before you start officially agility training, warmup your dog. Warm-ups include shadow handling and connection games. You want to make sure you and your dog are mentally connected and ready to go! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vfQILFXQ0w&feature=youtu.be

REWARDS: LOCATION/RELEASE WORDMake sure you have great rewards and a

reward that you can THROW or place down as a target. If your dog does not like toys, try using a lotus ball. Clean run sells them. It is a basically a ball where you put treats in. I like this particular ball because you can still throw it at a distance. I train distance by rewarding my dog at the time and place they did something brilliant. So when I am working distance, I reward at a distance. I try to throw my toy in the direction my dog was going. If you have a hard time throwing, you can target train by placing your reward at the location you want your dog to.

It is very important to have a release word to mean ‘you were brilliant, exercise is over and toy is coming’. I say “YES” when my

dog was brilliant and I throw my toy. My dogs know when they hear YES a toy is coming. Having a release word to the toy trains the dog to keep working until they hear the release word. This way, you do not get a dog constantly looking at your for a toy or treat. https://youtu.be/3ix0vu240J0

TRAIN SHORT SEQUENCES & REWARD OFTENI train in short fun sequences. I want to

be able to reward and reward often so I generally work 5-10 obstacles even with my elite dogs. I set things up to work a specific skill and reward the heck out of successful (and sometimes good tries) sequences. I want my dog to understand the skill I am working so I want to reward A LOT. Error on the side of rewarding TOO much than not enough..Even with your advanced dogs !!!

PUT OBSTACLE CLOSER TOGETHER When training distance, I put the obstacles closer together. I love hoops as I can place them very close together and do not have to worry about jumping. I place the obstacles close together to teach my dogs commitment and drive towards obstacles and I can reward quickly.

CONSCIOUS EFFORT TO TRAIN DISTANCEThe next step is to make a conscious

effort to train distance…even just one foot at a time! You should start small -only being a foot or so away from you dog and continuing to further challenge yourself to move farther away from you dog! You can do it

The key is to train it and then TRUST IT !!!!!! The more confidence you have in your dog, the more confident your dog will be, the faster he will be and the farther away you can be!

TRAINING DISTANCEWhen training distance, you can start off

by back chaining and rewarding at the location you want your dog to go. Back chaining is when we will break the exercise down backwards ..so we will start with 3 and reward 3, then perform 2-3 and reward 3. Then 1-3, reward 3. Get it?? Lots or rewarding !!

Remember to either throw a toy or put a target out! I do not want you rewarding your dog from your hand… because you are rewarding your dog for coming to you... Also remember to say your release word when you throw the toy or to get the target.DRAW YOUR PATH-ARM OUT STAY OUT ARM IN COME IN !!!

For simplicity, I am going to divide distance into 3 categories: Lateral, Sends (forward, out), and Lead-outs. There are many variations and combinations of distance handling.

Lateral Distance is being able to be- laterally - farther away from the side of you dog. The below diagram is an example. So for this sequence, you will reward after 3 and move laterally away from your dog. Do not start as far as I have in the diagram. Remember to do distance in baby steps. Move a foot or few feet at a time.

When you are behind your dog, it is easier for him to see you if you laterally farther away. Example: If you are in 1 position, your dog cannot see you. If you are in the 2 position, dog can possibly see you. If you are in the 3 position, it s much easier for the dog to see you !

SENDSForward Send-the ability to send your dog ahead of you

SEND OUT-the ability to be able to send your dog OUT AWAY from you

VARIOUS LEADOUTS

Here is one example. There are many lead out variations.

WALK YOUR DOG’S PATH !!! Walk your dog’s path at trials ..especially distance classes. You want to see what the dog will see!

BIG LOOP LESSONThis is one of my favorite setups. Here is a video of the below exercise (or close to it)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDaxOSmPcWE&feature=youtu.be

I start out with a big fast loop. One of the ways I get my distance is to do ‘racetracks’. I set big loops that get my dogs going fast !!! Handle this many ways: Leadout to your ‘normal’ position.Move farther away laterallyMove farther aheadDon’t leadout so farDon’t leadout at allStart on left side !!!

NEXT- We need to work turning off a tunnel. What is your cue from 2-3?What is your cue from 4-5?How much distance can you get?Make sure you walk dogs path so you can see that if you do not turn before 3 and run straight, your dog will see the off course hoop !!Don’t forget to work both sides.

Things I am looking for?

Are your cues consistent?Are you keeping your arm out when your want your dog to keep driving?Do you bring your arm in to get turn but then get it back out again to continue to draw path?Are you driving to the end of the sequence keeping your arm out?Where are your eyeballs???How much distance can you get?Is your dog driving to the end?

SOME TEACHING DISTANCE VIDEOS:Here I am teaching Digger (my mom’s dog) to GO to a Target: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDaxOSmPcWE&feature=youtu.be This video is line jumps (no bars) backchaining: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y12VQT4xl0Y&feature=youtu.be

More Target training with Digger teaching GO and Switch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udNl4gdSpCE&feature=youtu.be

DISTANCE OFF OF CONTACTSRegardless of your contact behavior, you

need to be able to send your dog at a distance off the contact. You need to be able to send ahead off the contact, as well as being able to turn off the contact.

In the diagram below, work distance off the afame. While I have included a whole sequence, when you are training distance off the contact, practice 1-3 and reward after 3. Run it once how you would normally run it. Next time, don’t go so close to the hoop .. reward after 3. Keep moving yourself farther and farther away from hoop 3 and reward after 3. Actually, at first, you may move hoop closer than it is on the diagram.

GET LATERAL DISTANCE RIGHT AWAY !When you are directly behind your dog, it is difficult for him to see you. The farther you can get laterally, the easier it is for your dog to see you. For example, in the illustration below dog can see you if you are next to him (1). But can dog see if you are in the 2 position? Probably not. Can dog see you in the 3 position? Maybe..Can dogs see you in the 4 position? YUP !! Go do this yourself. Go stand at the end of the walk and have people or even put cones in my positions and see what you can see. So it is really important to get lateral distance right away so that your dog can see you better and drive out away from you. The same principle applies to jump lines, hoop lines, tunnels etc. When you are behind your dog, he can see you better if you are farther laterally away then close to them.

DISTANCE IN ALL CLASSES NOT ONLY CHANCES /OR OTHER DISTANCE TEST CLASSES Please try to PUSH your distance in other classes besides the distance class. If you only use distance once every 6 classes, then that class will be more difficult. If you start to use your distance in other classes, it will feel more comfortable and the distances classes will become easier!! So please try to layer

something… stay behind on a contact and push ahead, use lateral leadout etc. in other classes !! This will help you tremendously in the distance classes

BONKER C’s CONNECT with your dog - connect and

warmup with your dog anytime you ask them to do something (tricks, weave between legs, shadow handling, space games, etc)

CUES – Types of Cues- Verbal, Body Language and Motion

CUES- Timing of Cues-cue prior to obstacle where change of direction is occurring

CODE your cues so that each command means ONLY one thing

CONSISTENT – be consistent with your cues, training and releases

CONSISTENT – Arm out means stay out, arm in come in. Keep your arm out unless you want your dog to come in… don’t DROP it even when your dog is in the tunnel !!

CRITERIA - Maintain Criteria – startlines, contacts

CRISP – be crisp with your body language, no flapping

CALM/CRAZY If you have a high drive dog, you need to be calm. If you have a motivationally challenged dog, you may have to be more crazy, cheerleading, woohoooing.

CONFIDENT - walk to the line with confidence, train it, trust it and run confidently

CRUSH the course – don’t think about sequences that are ‘hard’ but have the attitude you are going to crush the sequence/course

CLEAR - be clear with your cues, when I do this, I want this. If I ask you what is your contact performance I want a clear definition

CHERISH every run. You never know when it may be your last

CELEBRATE Moments of Brilliance ! Train in quick fun sessions and reward OFTEN

CHALLENGE yourself. Move out of your comfort zone. Lead out farther, more laterally, don’t lead out at all, push the distance, etc

CREATIVE—Be Creative..think outside the box

CHEERFUL – Don’t forget the power of Praise. You can praise your dog even in the agility ring

COMMUNICATE when exercise is over toy is coming. I have release word that means exercise is over and Toy is coming. This way my dogs will continue to work until they hear

‘YES”. I also reward at the time and location my dog does something brilliant. If I am working distance, I reward at a distance. If I am working tight stuff, I reward close to me.

COMPILE - a training journal. Keep track of your successes as well as things you need to work on. Take pics of the courses ( if you can), write down sequences etc. Also write down your verbal cues so you know exactly what each one means !!!

CONTROL - Make sure you have off leash control of your dog before you enter the agility ring

CHEERIOS - when I get a new pup or new dog I always carry cheerios in my pocket so that I can reward any interactions with me. Make sure you reward all of your dogs and not just the new one

COGNIZANT – be aware of what your dog is doing at all times when you are in the agility ring working. Once the exercise is over and you reward, don’t turn away from your dog. Stay connected and ready for the next exercise. This is especially important for sniffy dogs

CONSCIOUS- be aware of your dogs movement so that you will notice any changes. You do not have to know muscles and bones of the dog, but be aware of what they look like. If you see any changes….go to the Chiropractor

CHIROPRACTOR- Take your dog to the chiropractor for maintenance and if you see something “off’

CONCISE - Train in quick concise FUN sessions. Skill Train…work on skills and only run full courses occasionally

CORRECTING - Do not correct or repeat obstacles when you miss or mess up. Start the exercise over. If you bring your dog back and correct the missed obstacle, your dog will slow down and not be confident.

CRAYON - pretend your finger is a crayon (laser pointer) and DRAW YOUR DOGS PATH !!! Don’t run with your arms at your side.

CONDITION your dog. Regardless of what canine sport you participate in, every dog will benefit from a conditioning program. Exercises to increase balance, body awareness, core strengthening as well as mental stimulation are beneficial.

POSITIVE & FUN DOG TRAINING11

with Lisa BonkerNADAC ClinicianFITPAWS Master Trainer

Email: inthezoneagility@gmail.comWebsite: www.inthezoneagility.comFacebook: Lisa Schmit-Bonker https://www.facebook.com/schmitbonker?fref=nfBonker Seminar Group on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/bonkerseminar/(if you are on facebook, send me a PM and I will add you to this group. It is good way for me to keep in contact with you I will post videos, have discussions, you can ask questions etc>Training Video Website: http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/training.htmlPassword: rubbercontactsConditioning Public Page: http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/conditioning.htmlConditioning Private Video Page: http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/fitpass.htmlPassword is fitboneBonker Seminar Group for those that have attended a Lisa Bonker Seminar.http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bonkerseminar/To subscribe: Subscribe: bonkerseminar-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

ONLINE AGILITY & CONDITIONING TRAINING ON DEMAND ONLINE CLASSES – The following classes are available ON DEMAND !!You can audit and receive all the notes and video links! If you would like to work the class, you can video tape the  lessons and I will provide feedback !!CLASSES:*Jumping Class – my favorite jumping exercises*Foundation for Contacts Class-learn the foundations for 2020 with emphasis on back feet! *Barrelers- learn how to perform an efficient barrel in various sequences

*GO GO GO-learn how to your dog to move forward and ahead of you*GO GO part 2 – continue to push for more forward distance*Fitbones 1: learn how to properly use fitbones doing various conditioning exercises*Fitbones 2: progress to other conditioning exercises*Conditioning for Barrels: learn various exercises to help condition for barrels*More classes to come http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/ONDEMAND.html

BONKER ONLINE DOG TRAINING GROUPhttp://www.inthezoneagility.com/OnlineTraining.html password rubbercontactsBonker Online Dog Training Group consists on a yahoo group, agility video website and conditioning video website. In the bonker seminar yahoo group, we have training discussions, courses/sequences are posted as well as my seminar notes. I also post other dog training related information.  The websites literally has hundreds of training videos. For the past few years, I have been videotaping most of my training sessions. You can see how I train, reward and troubleshoot as I train my dogs throughout their career. I have over 200 training videos to watch from topics ranging from puppy, foundation training, serpentines, conditioning, tricks, motivation, start lines, contacts, directionals, barrels, conditioning and more. Videos from my seminar lectures are also available so you can listen to my training philosophy.  For $150 you will have lifetime access to both the agility and conditioning websites.CONDITIONING VIDEO SITEhttp://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/conditioning.html password: fitboneCanine Conditioning is very important for all dogs. From puppy to senior, from couch potato to the canine athlete, there are fun exercises to help improve your dogs overall well-being. These exercises improve body awareness, balance, flexibility, mobility, and muscular strength. If you have a canine athlete that competes in agility, conformation, obedience,

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flyball, herding, etc, a fitness plan can improve performance and help prevent injury. Besides the incredible physical benefits, doing these exercises will provide mental stimulation, strengthen the bond with your dog, increase dog’s confidence and create more focus. Plus it is really fun to do!!The conditioning page has instructional videos, videos showing different exercises to perform on equipment as well as progression exercises with multiple pieces of equipment. I have specific pages for each piece of equipment such as fitbones, peanuts, donuts, slanted board, wobble board, cavalettis, pods and more! For $100, you will have access to all the conditioning videos. For more information contact Lisa at inthezoneagility@gmail.com

ONLINE PRIVATE LESSONS /VIDEO COACHINGhttp://www.inthezoneagility.com/VideoCoach.htmlDo you need help formulating a training plan? Do you have a hard time creating sequences to work on? Do you want feedback on your handling? Would you like a personalized evaluation of your training sessions or trial runs? Are you having a particular training issue that you need help with? I will send you a detailed lesson plan developed specifically for you, your dog and your training space. You will run and videotape your training sessions. Send me a video of your sessions. I will provide detailed feedback and you can resubmit your videos if needed. I will provide feedback including areas you did well and areas that can be improved upon. Fee is $30 a lesson, or a package of 5 lessons for $125. If you sign up for the 5 package plan, you will have access to my private agility website that contains many videos.TRIAL RUN REVIEWI will review your trial runs and provide a detailed evaluation of your runs. $20 a run or 6 runs for $100.CONDITIONING PLANDo you need help developing a fitness plan for you dog? Would you like feedback on your conditioning sessions to make sure you are performing the exercises correctly? Do you need help developing progression exercises? I will make a specific plan for your dog and review

your videos for $50 a lesson, or a package of 5 lessons for $200. If you sign up for the 5 lesson package, you will have access to the bonker online dog training group website that has TONS of videos of many conditioning exercises. http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/conditioning.htmlA lesson will include at least 3 different exercises. I will provide a video of the exercises so you can see how to perform the exercises correctly. You will send me videos of the exercises. I will critique your videos in great detail to make sure you are doing the exercises correctly. You will have the opportunity to resubmit videos.

Lisa Bonker, PhD has been active in agility for over 20 years.  She is a NADAC certified Clinician, FITPAWS Master Trainer and Certified Canine Fitness Trainer. She gives seminars across the continent.  Lisa hosts over 15 NADAC Trials yearly as In The Zone Agility and In The Zone Agility of Illinois.   Lisa has won the NADAC Championships six years in a row with three different dogs.  In 2015, Tandem won the Highest number of Bonus Points Trophy in Starter Stakes. Her dogs have earned nine NADAC Platinum Speed Star Awards In 2013,Synergy was Reserve Champion in the 16” class and Tandem was Reserve Champion in Starters Stakes (class at champs that required high level distance skills).  Her dogs are consistently in the NADAC Top 10 with Jet being the Highest Scoring Skilled Dog in 2007 and Moxie the Highest Scoring Skilled Dog in 2008.  Tandem, Synergy, Moxie and Expedite have also earned nine NADAC Platinum Speed Star Awards.  Lisa and her dogs have earned over 60 NATCHs.  Eight of her dogs have qualifying bonus runs. To view a complete list of accomplishments, videos of runs and photos please visit http://inthezoneagility.com. To view some bonus’ runs http://inthezoneagility.homestead.com/BONUS-RUNS.htmlOver the past few years, Lisa has become very interested in canine conditioning. She has taken numerous seminars and online classes. She is a FITPAWS Master Trainer, a Certified Canine Fitness Trainer Program through the University of TN and has taken Debbie Gross’ Canine Fitness Instuctor Courses.

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