36 1/2"

Floor Plan96"

144 "

626

Parts List on Next PageThe following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your shed.Extensive diagrams and complete explanations are offered to make it simple (and fun)for those who have little or no experience with a project of this nature. Should you haveany questions (or suggestions), please don't hesitate to call our toll free customer ser-vice line 1-800-606-8911 or (905) 840-9469 in the Toronto area.

Please read the instructions thoroughly and check the con-tents of this package against the parts list prior to assembly.

Ver. 2.11626rev. 12/10/15

Optional Tools: � Square / Level (for floor construction)

� 1/8” Drill Bit

Shingles Required:6 bundles asphalt or7 bundles cedar shingles.

Required Tools:❑ Screwgun or❑ Variable Speed Electric Drill❑ Screwdriver Bit (Robertson #2)❑ Hammer❑ Handsaw❑ Tape Measure❑ Step Ladder

Note: Assistance may be required to posi-tion and secure some of the components.

8 x 12 Garden ShedAssembly Instructions

GuaranteeThe contents of this package are guaranteed to be complete and fit for assembly.Check the contents of the package against the parts list. If a part is missing ordamaged, please don't call the store, call our toll free customer serviceline 1-800-606-8911 or (905) 840-9469 in the Toronto area and we will assistyou in getting a replacement part.

rev. 12/10/2015

Section 7 - Raising the Roof Page 18❑ 4 - 4’ Roof Panels- 48" x 77 3/4"❑ 4 - 9" Roof Panels - 9" x 77 3/4"

Section 8 - Mounting the Soffits and Fascia 20❑ 4 - Gable Soffits - 1 x 5 1/2" x 53"❑ 4 - Gable Fascia - 1 x 2 1/8" x 58 1/4"❑ 2 - Eave Soffits - 1 x 5 1/4” x 96" ❑ 2 - Eave Soffits - 1 x 5 1/4" x 60 5/8"❑ 2 - Eave Fascia - 1 x 2 3/8" x 96"❑ 2 - Eave Fascia - 1 x 2 3/8" x 62 1/4"

Section 9 - Mounting the Corners and Casing 22❑ 4 - Gable Corner Trim (cut 22.5°) - 1 x 2 3/8" x 77"❑ 4 - Front/Back Corner Trim - 1 x 3 x 75 3/4"❑ 2 - Vertical Door Stop- 1" x 1" x 71 1/4"❑ 1 - Horiz. Door Jamb - 1" x 3" x 36 1/2"❑ 1 - Horiz. Door Casing - 3/4" x 2 5/8" x 41 1/2"

Section 10 - Installing the Window and Door 23❑ 2 - Vertical Door Casing - 1" x 2 3/8" x 72"❑ 1 - Trim Strip - 1” x 2 3/8" x 75 3/4" ❑ 2 - Window Assemblies❑ 1 - Door Assembly

Section 11 - Installing the Flower Boxes & Shutters 25❑ 2 - Flower box Front - 1 x 6 x 35 3/4" (w/ V-groove)❑ 2 - Flower box Back - 1 x 6 x 35 3/4"❑ 4 - Flower box Sides - 1 x 6 x 6 1/2"❑ 2 - Flower box Bottom - 1/2" x 5 1/8" x 31 7/8"

(plywood)❑ 4 - Shutter Assemblies

Miscellaneous Hardware❑ bag 3" Nails, 1 1/4" Screws, 3" Screws, 3 Hinges,

1 Hasp❑ 1 - Door Handle❑ bag 1 3/4" Siding Nails, 1" Roofing Nails

Section A - General Instructions Page 1

Section 1 - Floor 3

Section 2 - Truss Assembly 5❑ 14 - Rafters - 2 x 4 x 51 3/4"❑ 12 - Gussets❑ 7 - Collar Ties - 2 x 4 x 20"

Section 3 - Front Wall Assembly 6❑ 4 - Plates - 2 x 4 x 68 1/2"❑ 8 - Studs - 2 x 4 x 72"❑ 4 - Window Spacers - 2 x 4 x 22 1/2"❑ 1 - Door Header - 2 x 4 x 36 1/2"❑ 2 - Siding - 1 x 8 x 54" (Cut)❑ 12 - Siding - 1 x 8 x 54" ❑ 20 - Siding - 1 x 8 x 15 1/4"

Section 4 - Back Wall Assembly 11❑ 2 - Plates - 2 x 4 x 86 1/4"❑ 2 - Plates - 2 x 4 x 50 3/4"❑ 12 - Studs - 2 x 4 x 72"❑ 2 - Siding - 1 x 8 x 72" (Cut)❑ 22 - Siding - 1 x 8 x 72"

Section 5 - Gable Wall Assemblies 14❑ 2 - Nailing Joists - 2 x 4 x 81 5/8"❑ 4 - Plates - 2 x 4 x 96"❑ 14 - Studs - 2 x 4 x 72"❑ 2 - Siding - 1 x 8 x 96" (Cut)❑ 22 - Siding - 1 x 8 x 96"❑ 32 - Assorted Siding Pieces

Section 6 - Erecting the Walls 16

Parts Checklist and Table of ContentsNote: Lumber is graded from one side only. Check eachpart for the most attractive face and use it facing out.

A) General Instructions and Helpful HintsPlease read the instructions BEFORE beginning assembly

The framing dimensions for stud placement given in these instructions are "on center" measure-ments. The distances shown are measured from the end of the plate to the middle of the stud.Studs are 1 1/2" wide, so the edges of the stud are 3/4" on each side of center. When laying outthe plates it is often convenient to mark the stud center first, and then make a mark 3/4" away onone or both sides of the center mark. Indicate the center mark with an "X" so as not to confuse itwith an edge mark.

24"

48"

Marking the Plates

3 / 4 "

Assembly Instruction Organization

Page 1

The assembly instructions are organized into ten sections. It is strongly recommended that youassemble your shed in the order presented. Our experience shows that assemblers meet with themost success when all the parts in the kit are identified and sorted according to the section wherethey will be needed prior to assembly. Please refer to the parts checklist on the front cover.

When marking plates for the walls, both the top and bottom plates can be marked at the sametime by laying them side by side. Use a square to transfer the marks from one plate to the other.

When screwing or nailing be careful not to set the fastener too closeto the edge, or the end, of a piece of wood. Corners and casingsshould have 3" between a fastener and the end of the piece to pre-vent splitting. As an added precaution, a pilot hole may be drilled forscrews using an 1/8” drill bit.When nailing the cedar channel siding smooth side out to the 2x4framing, place the nails so that they penetrate the thicker part of theboard, set in at least 3/4" from the overlap and underlap.

Screwing and Nailing

rev. 12/10/2015

overlap

underlap

groove

3/4"

3/4"

A Word about Pool CabanasIf you intend to use your shed as a facility to house gas-fired pool heating equipment, be sure toconsult with your local gas service person on the placement of your equipment before erecting theshed. This will ensure that all clearances are adhered to, and that you are able to position the rooftrusses so that they don't interfere with the stack on your gas heater.

A Note on Lumber Dimensions and Wood PropertiesThroughout the instructions, reference is made to various lumber dimensions. Please rememberthat planing at the sawmill has reduced the size of dimensioned lumber such as 2x3, 2x4, 2x6,1x8, 1x6 etc. These materials are 1/4" to 1/2" thinner and narrower than stated (ie 2x3 is actually1 1/2" x 2 1/2", 1x6 is 3/4" x 5 1/2"). In cases where a depth or width is given for material that wehave machined (trim, door casing, etc.), the measurements are usually as stated. All of the partsin your kit have gone through a quality control process in our plant, but keep in mind that wood isa natural material and is prone to swelling and shrinkage. Therefore, the size of some of the partsmay vary slightly from the dimensions given. This may result in some minor joint variations, butshould not be cause for concern. When you are sorting the parts in your kit, you may wish to setaside the straighter studs for use as door studs and corner studs. When assembling parts, consid-er which face or edge of the piece looks best and keep that side exposed.

Treat the exposed parts of your shed with a minimum of two coats of a transparent natural orcoloured opaque finish. A quality brand name finish is available at the retailer where you pur-chased your shed.

Recommended Finish

This treatment is required in order to validate your manufacturer’s warranty.

Page 2

AB

To square a frame, measure the diagonals (from corner to corner each way), checking that the twomeasurements are the same. If they are not, push or pull the corners accordingly so that the twomeasurements become the same.

Squaring a Frame

Measurement Ashould equal

Measurement B

rev. 12/10/2015

Required Tools: ❑ Hammer❑ Tape Measure

Optional Tools:■ Square / Level

Note: Assistance may be required to posi-tion and secure some of the components.2

06

8 x 12 FloorAssembly Instructions

The following pages contain explicit instructions on how to assemble your shed.Extensive diagrams and complete explanations are offered to make it simple (and fun)for those who have little or no experience with a project of this nature. Should you haveany questions (or suggestions), please don't hesitate to call our toll free customer ser-vice line 1-800-606-8911 or (905) 840-9469 in the Toronto area.

Please read the instructions thoroughly and check the con-tents of this package against the parts list prior to assembly.

Parts Checklist:❑ 4 - Plates - 2 x 4 x 72"❑ 12 - Joists - 2 x 4 x 93"❑ 3 - Floor Sheathing Panel 4'x8'❑ 3 - Pressure Treated Runners

- 8’ long❑ 3 - Pressure Treated Runners

- 4’ long (or 2 ft lengths)❑ bag 3" Nails❑ bag 1 3/4" Nails

Top View8'

12'

Ver. 5.01206rev. 12/10/2015

1) Lay out the joists and plates out on their edgesas shown above. flush here

flush here

2 - 3" nails

3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 for second section.

16"

32"

48"

64"

72"

Floor Frame(TWO to be built)

6 joists

plate

plate

Site Preparation - video available @ www.egsheds.com1) The site you choose for your shed should be well drained and free from puddling.

2) The site must be properly leveled. It is recommended that any sod be removed prior toleveling and black plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric covered with gravel be put downbefore assembly of the floor. This will help keep moisture away from the floor and discouragethe growth of grass under the shed.

Floor Assembly - video available at www.egsheds.com

2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails foreach end of the stud. Ensure that the top of the stud staysflush with the plate.

rev 12/10/2015

Measurement Ashould equalmeasurement B

B A

4) Flip over one of the floor sections and align it with the other. Push the two sections togetherensuring that they are flush with each other. Using 3" nails, attach the sections together bynailing through the two inside joists at 8" intervals.

3"Nails

5) Once the floor framing is complete, square the floor by measuring the diagonals (fromcorner to corner each way), checking that the two measurements are the same. If they arenot, push or pull the corners accordingly so that the two measurements become the same.

rev. 12/10/2015

rev. 12/10/2015

1'x 2'patio

stones

12'

runners

7) Flip completed frame over and position it on the patio stones or footings. We recommend thatthe patio stones or footings be leveled as much as possible to avoid excessive shimming. Addcedar shims or blocks between the patio stones and the runners to level the frame. Re-check allsides after raising any one side. Guard against possible sag in the middle of the floor.

6) On the bottom of the floor, place the runners on their face, 6" from the edge of the floor. Attachusing two - 3" galvanized nails per joist.

6"

6"

8) Position one of the 4' x 8' floor panels ensuring that the edge of the panel stays flush with theoutside edge of the outer joist and the front and back plates. The inner panel edge should becentered on the fourth joist. The edges of the panel will assist you in keeping the floor square.Secure the sheet with two - 1 3/4" nails at each outside corner and one nail at each insidecorner.

flush here

Floor panelcentered onfourth joist

Panel Alignment Detail

12/10/2015

9) Position the second floor panel flush with the first. Secure the panel using one - 1 3/4"nail in each corner.

10) Position the third floor panel flush with the second. Secure the panel using one - 1 3/4"nail in each corner. Finish the floor by nailing both panels about every 8" to the all joistsand plates.

rev. 12/10/2015

You're now ready to begin the construction of your shed.

1'x 2'patio

stones

12'

2 x 6runners

1) The site you choose for your shed should be well drained and free from puddling.

Site Preparation

3) Flip completed frame over and position it on the patio stones or footings. Add cedar shims orblocks between the patio stones and the 2 x 6 runners to level the frame.

2) The site must be properly leveled. It is recommended that any sod be removed prior to levelingand black plastic sheeting or landscaping fabric covered with gravel be put down before assemblyof the floor. This will help keep moisture away from the floor and discourage the growth of grassunder the shed.

3) If a concrete pad is being used, be sure that the plates are level and square. You may need toshim the plates prior to bolting or nailing them to the pad.

If it is not posible to level the site, or you wish to raise your shed in areas of poor drainage, 2x6pressure treated runners supported by concrete patio stones or poured concrete footings may beused.

Optional Strategies for Difficult Sites

2) On the bottom of the floor, place the 2x6 runners on their face, 6" from the edge of the floor.Attach using two - 3" galvanized nails per joist.

1) Set down patio stones or pour footings positioned as shown in the diagram below. Werecommend that the patio stones or footings be leveled as much as possible to avoid excessiveshimming.

6"

6"

rev. 12/10/2015

2) Truss Assembly - video available @ www.egsheds.com

96"

page 5

optional floor

rev. 12/10/2015

If you purchased the optionalfloor, use it as a guide to helpyou assemble the trusses.

rafters

Collar Tie

joined and flush here

Collar Tie

nail in place using 1 3/4" nails

optional floor

2) Position a gusset as shown below. Using approximately 30 - 1 3/4" siding nails, secure the gusset to the rafterand collar tie. On 5 of the 7 trusses to be assembled, flip the trusses over and nail a second gusset on the otherside. Note that the two trusses to be used with the gable walls have a gusset on one side only.

1) Lay out two of the rafters on the assembly surface as shown. Ensure that the top ends are flush and the distancebetween the outside ends of the rafters is 96". Place the collar tie at the top of the rafter assembly, flush between therafters. Nail in place using two - 1 3/4" nails as shown below.

nails gusset

3) Front Wall Assembly - video available @ www.egsheds.com1) The front wall assembly is built in two sections. Lay out one of the 68 1/2" plates and four of the72" studs on edge and construct the first section as shown below.

19"

68 1/2"

3) Lay out the other 68 1/2" plate and four of the 72" studs on edge and construct the secondsection as shown below.

4) Nail the studs twice to the plate using 3" nails. Ensure that the studs stay flush with the plate atthe top and bottom.

flush here

68 1/2" page 6

57"33"

12 1/2"36 1/2"

50 1/2"

flush here

flush here

2 - 3" nails

72"

rev. 12/10/2015

2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the topof the stud stays flush with the plate.

5) Viewing the frame from the bottom, align the second wall section with the first. Push the twosections together ensuring that they are flush and level with each other.

page 7

6) Position the door header (2 x 4 x 36 1/2") as shown. Using twelve 3" nails, nail the headertight to the upper plate, ensuring that the header stays flush with the studs and upper plate.

door header

3" nails

7) Position the four window spacers (2 x 4 x 22 1/2") as shown in the detail above. Using 3" nails,nail each spacer twice through each stud, ensuring that the spacer stays flush.

6 1/2"

34 1/2"

Window Spacer Positioning Detail

3"nails

3"nails

window spacer

Temporarily nail a piece of scrappackaging across the floor plate jointto help hold the front wall together.

rev. 12/10/2015

54 "

54 " 54 "

15 1/2" 15 1/2"

8) Position the two 54" starter pieces (see detail below) so that they overhang the bottomplate by 3/4". The siding overhangs the end studs (dotted line) by approximately 2 1/2" andremains flush with inside of door and window openings. Fasten the first two pieces to theframe using 1 3/4" nails. Apply the next four courses, working up to the bottom of the windows.Measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate as each course isbeing applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. Cheat on spacing asrequired to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the top plate. Once you reachthe bottom of the window, begin applying the smaller 15 1/4" pieces (5 courses) and finishwith 2 courses of 54" siding. Trim the last course to overhang the top plate by 3/4". The topof the window frame may need to be cut out of the 2nd last course.

Siding overhangs outside plate 3/4"

4 courses53 5/8"

5 courses15 1/2"

2 courses53 5/8"

tongue has beentrimmed off

lower lip

starter courseof siding

Siding overhangs end stud (dotted line) by approximately 2 1/2"

15 1/2" 15 1/2"

page 8

startercourse

rev. 12/10/2015

trim to overhang top plate by 3/4"

page 9rev. 05/03/99

This page is left intentionally blank.

Pages 9, 10 and 11 are not required for the assembly of this model.

page 12

5 1/2"

21 1/2"

37 1/2"

53 1/2"

69 1/2"

15 1/4"

31 1/4"

47 1/4"

4) Back Wall Assembly1) Lay out the two back wall sections as shown below.

3) Push the two sections together ensuring that they are flush with each other. Using twelve 3"nails, attach the sections together by nailing through the two inside studs.

3"Nails

rev. 12/10/2015

86 1/4"

50 3/4"

2) Attach each stud to the plates using two - 3" nails for each end of the stud. Ensure that the topof the stud stays flush with the plate.

4) Once framing is complete, square the wall as shown in the general instructions on page 2.

5) There are 24 - 72" pieces of 1 x 8 channel siding required for this wall. Position the two 72"starter pieces (see detail in front wall assembly section - page 9) so that they overhang thebottom plate by 3/4" and the end studs by 2 1/2". The joint between the two 72" pieces ofsiding will fall on the stud located at the 69.5" mark of the plate. Fasten the first piece to theframe using 1 3/4" nails. Measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upperplate as each course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame.Cheat on spacing as required to ensure that each subsequent course is aligned with the topplate. Trim the last course so that it overhangs the top of the top plate by 3/4".

page 13rev. 12/10/2015

Siding overhangs end stud by approximately 2 1/2"Siding

overhangsbottom plate

3/4"

trim to overhang top plate by 3/4"

5) Gable Wall Framing (left and right sides)

1) Using 3" nails, nail the studs to the plates on 16" centers as shown below.

2) Square wall the as described in page 2 of the general instructions.

3) On a level assembly surface, position one of the pre-fab trusses with the gussets on one sideonly, gusset side up, to the top of the wall. Position one of the nailing joists between the rafters asshown. Using 3" nails, fasten the rafters to the joist and then the truss to the wall by toe-nailingthrough the side of the truss bottom into the top of the plate.

page 14

72"

rev. 12/10/2015

nailing joist

16"

32"

48"

64"

80"

96"

side view

truss flushwith outside

of wall

gusset

apply sidingto this side

of wall frame

4) Turn the gable wall over and then re-check squareness.

5)There are 12 - 96" pieces of 1 x 8 channel siding required for each gable wall. Position the 96"starter piece (see detail in front wall assembly section - page 9) so that it overhangs the bottomplate by 3/4" and is flush with the end studs. Fasten the first piece to the frame using 1 3/4"nails. Fasten the rest of the siding pieces. They should be flush with the outside edges of theend studs. Again, measure the distance between the siding and the top of the upper plate aseach course is being applied to ensure that the siding remains parallel with the frame. The lastpiece should be trimmed flush with the top plate.

6) Fasten the random length pieces of siding vertically to cover the joist and the truss. Trim thepieces flush with the top of the truss.

page 15

flush with frame flush with frame

rev. 12/10/2015

6) Erecting the Walls

floor

nail through bottomplate every 16" with

3" nails

Be sure to adequately support thegable wall before proceeding

fasten inside cornerwith 3" nails

page 16

Re-check the floor before erecting the walls. It is very important thatthe floor is flat and level to insure proper installation of the roof.

1) Starting with the gable wall that is most convenient, lift the wall into position as shown below.Center the wall on the floor so that both ends are flush with the floor (if there is any overhang,make it equal on both ends). Use scrap packaging to brace the wall diagonally from the floor to the edge of the wall.

2) With one person outside pushing the bottom of thewall tight against the edge of the floor, fasten the wall by nailing the bottom plate to the floor at 16" intervals.

overhang, if any,should be equalon both sides ofthe floor

scrap packagingmaterial

3) Slide the back wall into place ensuring that the corner is tight with the gable wall.

4) Adjust the wall sections so that the top plates are flush with each other (this may require you totemporarily shim one of the walls). With one person pushing the corner tight, fasten the cornertogether from the outside by nailing seven - 1 3/4" nails through the panel overhang into the gablecorner stud. Reinforce the corner from the inside by using 3" nails at the top, middle and bottom.

gable walltop plate

wall top plate

flush here

rev. 12/10/2015

page 17

5) Lift the second gable wall into position as shown below. Ensure thatthe inside corner is tight with the back wall.

6) Fasten the corners togetheras detailed in step 4.

7) Slide the front wall into place between the two gable walls.

8) Fasten both front wall corners as detailed in step 4.

9) To ensure proper installation of the roof panels, square the shed by measuring diagonallyacross the top corners of the walls, and pushing or pulling the corners until the measurements areequal. (This technique is illustrated under the title "Squaring a Frame" in the General Instructions, page 1) .

1 3/4" nails

1 3/4" nails

10) After the top of the shed is square, nail theremaining two corners to the floor. With one personpushing the bottom of the wall tight against the edgeof the floor, nail the bottom plate of the front, back andgable walls to the floor at 16" intervals. Do not nail thefront plate where it crosses the door opening.

rev. 12/10/2015

7) Raising the Roof - video available @ www.egsheds.com1) Working left to right, position the five trusses on the front and back plates as shown. Align thetrusses on the front wall plate using the measurements shown below. Tack each truss in place byputting one - 1 3/4" nail through the 3/4" siding overhang into the truss end. Fasten the trusses tothe plates by nailing them once from the top and once from the bottom through the plate with 3"nails. Do not fasten the third truss yet.

2) Position one of the 9" roof panels as shown below. Ensure that the top edge is aligned with thecenter line of the rafter peaks and overhangs the gable wall by 5 1/4". Check that the truss spacingis the same at the gable peak as it is on the walls. Nail the panel to the trusses with three - 1 3/4"nails per truss.

measure truss position from end of frontwall plate to center of truss

trusses positioneddirectly over back

wall studs

back wallstuds

front wallplate

21 1/2"45 1/2"

3) When installing the 4' roof panels it is essential that a constant overhang of 5 1/4"be maintained on the gable ends to ensure that the soffit and fascia fit properly. This may require swinging the inside edge of the 4' panels up or down until the proper overhang is achieved (this will pull the roof square).While doing this, ensure that the joint with the 9" panel at the gable truss stays tight. When the overhang is correct, nail the panel to the gable truss with six - 1 3/4" nails. Next, push or pull the sheet to achieve a tight joint with the rest of the 9" panel and attach to each truss with six nails.

24" 24" 24" 24"

69 1/2"93 1/2"

117 1/2"

5 1/4" overhang measured from outside of siding

trusscenter

line

top edgeof sheet

48" x 77 5/8" roof panel

9" x 77 5/8" roof panel

see detail on next page

do not fasten third truss yet

page 18rev. 02/02/00

page 19

4) Install the second 9" roof panel on the other side of the roof. Take care to align it flush withand tight to the first 9" peice.

sheets covering 1/2of the truss (3/4")

push truss underroof panels

7) Finish the roof byrepeating steps 2through 5 on the rightside of the shed.

6) Position the third truss by sliding it under the roof panels so they just cover half of the truss.Nail the truss into place as detailed in step 1. Nail the roof panels to the truss using nine - 1 3/4" nails per side.

5) Install the second 4' roof panel flush with and tight to the 9" piece. Try to maintain a constantoverhang of 5 1/4". (This might take a little effort but it helps square the shed).

rev. 01/28/00

8) Mounting the Soffits and Fascia

1) Start six - 1 1/4" screws in pairs (top, middle and bottom) along the underside of the gablesoffit (1 x 6 x 52 3/4" with beveled end).

2) Hold up the gable soffit and align it under the roof overhang so that the toe of the bevel con-tacts the inside peak of the roof.

3) Hold the gable soffit firmly against the roof panels and screw it into place.

4) Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the other three gable soffits.

1 1/4" #8Screws

beveled edge

5) Each of the front and back eave soffits come in 2 pieces (1" x 5 1/8" x 96" and 1" x 5 1/8" x60 1/8"), beveled on the long edge. Start eight - 1 1/4" screws in pairs along the underside of thelonger eave soffit and six - 1 1/4" screws in the shorter.

6) Hold up the shorter eave soffit with the beveled edge facing out and with the toe pointingdown. Align the end so that it is flush with the gable soffit. Hold it firmly against the roof panel andscrew it into place. Fasten the longer eave soffit flush with the gable soffit on the other end.

7) Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the eave soffits on the other wall.

beveled edge

Eave Soffits

Gable Soffits

Note that the soffitsare designed to beslightly larger thanthe roof overhang.

gable soffit

page 20rev. 12/10/2015

8) Position the gable fascia with the bottom end aligned with the edge of the eave soffit and thetop edge flush with the top of the roof panels.

9) Nail the fascia to the gable soffit with four - 1 3/4" inch nails.

Gable Fascia

Align with edgeof eave soffit.

10) Repeat steps 8 and 9 for the other three gable fascia.

11) The eave fascia, like the eave soffit, also comes in two pieces. Position the eave fascia sothat the fascia joint does not line up with the soffit joint (alternate the short and long pieces).Adjust the eave fascia so that it is flush with the gable fascia face and even with the bottom asshown below.

12) Nail the eave fascia to the eave soffit with four - 1 3/4" nails for the shorter piece andsix - 1 3/4" nails for the longer piece.

13) Repeat steps 11 and 12 for the eave fasciaon the other side and then shingle the roof.

Eave Fascia

Follow the directionson the shingle pack-age for application

technique.

overlap the gable fasciaand align bottom edges page 21rev. 01/28/00

Corner Pieces

Corner piecetight against

soffit

9) Mounting the Corners and Casing

2) Fasten the front and back wall corner trim (ends cut square) using five 1 - 3/4" nails each.Ensure that the corner pieces are tight against the eave soffit and are flush with the outside edgeof the gable corner trim.

page 22

3) Center the horizontal door casing (1 x 3 x 45") over the door opening. Adjust the bottomedge of the casing so that it is evenly spaced with the opening.

4) Fasten with three - 1 3/4" nails.

Horizontal Door Casing

flush with thedoor opening

rev. 01/28/00

1) Using five - 1 3/4" nails each, fasten the gable corner trim (ends cut on an angle) positionedas shown below. Ensure that the gable corner trim is tight against the gable soffit and flush withthe front or back wall.

gablecorner

trim

overlapfront/backcorner trim

10) Installing the Window and Door

1) Place the window in the window opening. Adjust the window in the opening so that the cas-ing is parallel to the siding grooves.

2) Nail the window into place with 1 3/4" nails, one in each corner.

Window(s)

2) Position the first vertical door casing (1 x 3 x 72") against the door frame.

5) Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the other vertical casing.

door casing

Vertical Door Casing

flush withdoor

opening

3) Align the edge flush with the door opening and tight against horizontal casing.

4) Fasten with five - 1 3/4" nails.

tightagainst

horizontalcasing

page 23rev. 05/02/99

1) Remove the front wall bottom plate where it crosses the door opening by cutting it flush withthe door frame studs.

1) With one person inside the shed to help support the door, position it in the opening. Shim thedoor between the inner door bracing and the floor to leave a 3/16" gap between the top of thedoor and the opening. Adjust the door from side to side to distribute the gap is evenly on bothsides of the door.

page 24rev. 03/30/99

2) Using the screws supplied with the hinges, fasten the the top hinge; first to the frame and thento the door as shown below.

Hanging the Door

The gap between the top of the door and the door opening may notbe even if the floor is not completely level. This can be corrected by

shimming the corner of the floor where the gap is the greatest.

3) Fasten the the bottom hinge next, followed by the middle hinge.

5) Attach door handle and hasp as shown above. Be sure to install the hasp with the hinged sec-tion on the wall rather than the door. Please refer to the hardware packages for mounting instruc-tions.

4) Fasten the other vertical door casing following steps 4 through 6 on the previous page. Adjustthe spacing so that the gap (3/16") between the door and casing is uniform along the length of thedoor.

6) Cover the middle seam on the back wall with the 75" x 3/4” x 2 3/8" cedar trim strip.

11) Installing the Flower Boxes and ShuttersFlower Box Assembly

rev. 01/28/00 page 25

1) Insert the side pieces into the short dadoes (slots) on the flower box back as shown below. The1/2" dadoes on the side pieces face toward the middle of the box and line up with the 1/2" dado onthe flower box back.

2) Screw the back to each side piece with two - 2 1/2" screws.

2 1/2” screws

dado

shortdado

2) Insert the 1/2" plywood bottom into the dado on the back and side pieces as shown in below.

3) Position the front piece, v-groove side out, onto the side pieces so that they fit into the shortdadoes. Fasten the front piece to the side pieces with four - 2 1/2" screws in the same manner asthe back piece.

plywoodbottom

1) Position the shutter beside the window frame so that the shutter bottom sits on the flower boxand is 1 1/2" from the window casing. Fasten the bottom with a 1 1/4" screw under the crosspiece.

2) Adjust the shutter so that it is an equal distance from the window at both the top and bottom.Fasten the top using a 1 1/4" screw under the cross piece.

Shutters

Flower Box Installation

1) Position the flower box tight against the bottom of the window frame and center it under thewindow.

2) Use the 2 1/2" screws to attach the box to the studs on either side of the window.

screwhere

screwhere

rev. 01/28/00 page 26

Congratulations! That completes the assembly of your shed. Remember to finish itwith a quality stain to validate the warranty as detailed in the first section of the instruc-

tions. When properly finished your shed will give you many years of trouble free ser-vice. If you have any comments or suggestions, please call us on our toll free line.

Using four nails per shingle, nail as shown in drawing. Drive nails straight so that the nail head is flush with,but not cutting intoshingle surface.

Follow illustrations to apply Shingles to your Building.

After completing shingling your building, remove any overhanging, excess shingles by cutting them off with a utility knife.

INSTALLING ASPHALT SHINGLES (REQUIRED)- video available @ www.egsheds.com

1"(2.5 cm)

NAILS

Sealing Strip1"

(2.5 cm)1/2"

(1.3 cm)

First row of Shingles are installed backwardsto make a seal barrier-flush to bottom of Drip Edge

It is okay if last Shingle overlaps it will be cut

off later

Line up notch ontop of Shingle with

edge of Roof to staggerthe Shingles

Line up notch onside of Shingle with

edge of Roof to staggerthe Shingles

Roof

Shingle

Roof Panel

Nail That Missed Stud

Trim NailsNot in Studs

See requirements in the limited conditional warranty on the last page of this manual.

After assembly is finished, check the entire building inside andout for any protruding nails. Pound any protruding nails intothe wood or cut them off flush.

Keep GrassTrimmed

See Warranty Requirements

Keep SprinklersAway From Building

To cover the Peak of your building, cut stripShingles into individual pieces by dividingat cutout as shown. Bend each piece overthe Peak and nail 5-7/8” (14.9cm) abovethe butt edge and 1”(2.5cm) in from eachside, exposing each piece 5-1/8” (13cm) tothe weather.

REQUIRED MAINTENANCE

NAIL INSPECTION

Cut any ShinglesOverhanging Sides

Cut single Shingleinto three pieces

5-1/8"(13cm)

5-7/8"(14.9cm)

INSTALLING SHINGLES (CONTINUED)

Limited ConditionalWarranty

WARRANTYWe warrant the following:

1. Every product is warranted from defects in workmanship and manufacturing for two years.2. All hardware and metal components are warranted for two years.3. Trim and Chalet (T 1-11 siding) are warranted for two years.4. Waferboard siding and sheathing is warranted for two years.5. Cedar and Canexel siding are warranted for 5 years.

We will repair, replace or pay for the affected part. In no event shall we pay the cost of labor or installation or any other costs relatedthereto. All warranties are from date of purchase. If a cash refund is paid on an affected part, it will be prorated from the date ofpurchase. Note that due to the organic nature of wood, knots, small cracks and minor movement are not considered defects.

CONDITIONSThe warranty is effective only when:

1. The unit has been erected in accordance with the assembly instructions.2. The unit has been properly shingled and painted or stained and reasonably and regularly maintained thereafter.3. The failure occurs when the unit is owned by the original purchaser.4. We have received the warranty registration card within thirty (30) days of purchase and notification of the failure in writing

within the warranty period specified above.5. We have had reasonable opportunity during the sixty (60) days following receipt of notification to inspect and verify the

failure prior to commencement of any repair work.

REQUIREMENTSTo validate your warranty, it is necessary to properly maintain your building; shingle the roof and paint or solid-colored stain the sidingusing 100% acrylic latex exterior product with a minimum of two (2) coats within thirty (30) days of assembly; caulk above all doors andall horizontal and vertical trim boards; paint and seal all exposed edges, sides and faces of siding to include all exterior walls andall sides and all edges of doors.

Other RequirementsKeep vegetation trimmed away from building. Water from sprinklers must be kept off unit. In no event will we be responsible for anyindirect, incidental, consequential or special damages nor for failure(s) that are caused by events, acts or omissions beyond our controlincluding, but not limited to, misuse or improper assembly, improper maintenance (which eventually leads to rot or decay) and acts ofGod. We will not be held responsible for any labor costs incurred to construct your unit.

CLAIM PROCEDURETo make a claim under this warranty, call (800) 606-8911. Please have ready the information below when you call or include theinformation when writing:

1. The model and size of the product.2. A list of the part(s) for which the claim is made.3. Proof of purchase of the item, as shown on the original invoice.

IMPORTANT: This is your warranty certificate.Please complete and mail your warranty card to properly validate your warranty.

Please detach and return the card (or fax) to the address below (with copy of dated retail receipt) to validate your warranty.

Warranty Registration Card

Name: Model:Address: Date Purchased:City: Retail Outlet:Province/State: Store Location:

We would appreciate a moment of your time to answer the following questions:

Did you find the instructions clear? Yes NoIf not please explain

Did you encounter any difficulties with assembly? Yes NoIf so please explain

Kenex Manufacturing Ltd27 Regan Rd, Brampton, ON

L7A 1B2Tel. 1-800-606-8911 (Locally 905-840-9469)

Fax 905-840-6904email: info@egsheds.com