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In the highlands of northern Spain, the tiny province of Rioja is transformingits safe, predictable wines into something much more exciting. Kate Ennis

visits the bodegas and restaurants to find out how the wine and cuisine areevolving to meet changing tastes without abandoning tradition

Photography by Carl Pendle

BASQUE INGLORY

OLD WINE IN NEW BOTTLES:FRANK GEHRY’SCUTTING EDGECITY OF WINE ATTHE MARQUES DERISCAL BODEGA INQUIET ELCIEGO

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In the packed narrow interior of Bar Soriano, the far end of the bar isfuriously steaming as garlicky oil is generously poured over the latestbatch of mushrooms placed on the grill. Briskly flipped and browned,

three mushrooms are deftly skewered together with a cocktail stickand speared into a chunk of white bread to catch the oil that oozesout. Each ‘champi’ – as this tapa is known – is then quickly slid alongthe bar on small plates to be distributed to eager customers along withsmall shots of cerveza. If the men behind the bar look well practisedat this ritual, it’s because they’ve only served this one dish here for 34years. There’s plenty of competition from numerous tapas bars thatline the lively Calle Laurel in La Rioja’s capital town of Logroño, yetSoriano is the busiest by far – evident in the number of used napkinscustomarily discarded on its floor.

Once Soriano had found its winning formula, it stuck to it withunfailing dedication. The same thing could once be said of this region’swines 30 years ago, when Soriano was still just a fledgling business.Rioja built up a wide and loyal following by producing formulaic blendsfrom regional grapes that all had the requisite soft fruit and sweetvanilla character from ageing in American oak. The taste of classicRioja went hand in hand with the image of Spain’s rural rusticity, butnow this notion of one-dimensional wines and fusty, cobwebbedcellars is quickly gathering dust.

Rapid progress across all Spanish wineries – in terms of improved

technology and techniques – has raised quality levels dramatically overthe past decade. The classic style is still made for traditionalists, butsome winemakers are also creating a modern style to appeal to newdrinkers brought up on concentrated, fruit-forward New World wines.By using only native Tempranillo grapes, single varietals give that fruit-driven flavour with more concentration and alcohol, aged in Frenchrather than American oak to give more subtle and complex woodcharacter instead of the overpowering vanilla and coconut. Singleestate wines from old vines and higher altitude vineyards are alsoproducing quality like never before.

Today, Rioja defies definition. Forward thinking yet still respectful oftradition, fiercely regional yet international, the stark contrasts seem tostrike at every turn; yet everything still seems to work together, which iswhat makes the region so dynamic. The buzz of excitement isparticularly palpable now the trend for wine tourism is growing andleading people to a discovery of the region’s other assets. There is noNapa-style winery-hopping between brief unguided tastings here,though; Riojans want to encourage a more considered, in-depthsampling of wine culture, so bodegas offer accommodation,restaurants, cultural events and tours to tempt travellers and give aninsight into a fundamental aspect of the Spanish way of life.

Rioja’s culinary scene, influenced by Spain’s most respected chefs,certainly deserves to be discovered. As a bastion for traditional regional

RIGHT: SANTIAGOCALATRAVA’S ICONICDESIGN FOR THE BODEGASYSIOS WHERE JUST ONE WINE, A RESERVA, ISPRODUCED

The taste of classic Rioja went hand in hand with the image of Spain’s rural rusticity, but now thisnotion of one-dimensional wines and fusty, cobwebbed cellars is quickly gathering dust

HEN AND EGGS FROMBECKLANDS FARM, MICHELROUX, MILLSTONE CHEESE AT

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cooking using local ingredients, but also experimenting with cutting-edge cuisine, La Rioja has long been the secret of smart Basqueurbanites seeking a gastronomic weekend break and increasing flightsto Bilbao have opened up Rioja as an ideal long-weekend destinationfor global gastronomes. From Bilbao, an hour’s drive south brings youto Haro in the north-west of the region.

La Rioja is Spain’s smallest province, yet the wine of the same nameis made in a narrow area that hugs the River Ebro, extending 120kilometres across the north of the region from Haro towards provincialcapital Logroño and further east to the plains beyond. Bound by therugged Cantabrian mountains to the north and the Sierra de laDemanda to the south, Atlantic, continental and Mediterraneanclimates influence this valley, creating ideal grape-growing conditions.Unique microclimates each produce wines with their owncharacteristics: Rioja Alta, in the highlands of La Rioja and largely southof the Ebro, revered for its fine blends; the cooler Rioja Alavesa in theBasque region north of the river, known for its fruity young Tempranillos,and Rioja Baja, the biggest, hottest and lowest altitude area, with robustand peppery Garnacha wines in the plains east of Logroño.

A good place for a base is in or around Haro, Laguardia or Logroño,giving easy access to the attractions of Alta and Alavesa. The newMuseum of Wine Culture (00 34 941 322340; dinastiavivanco.com) inthe shadow of Briones, an old and picturesque hilltop town, is theworld’s largest resource dedicated to the culture of winemaking. It’s thebrainchild of the Vivanco family, owner of Riojan winemaking companyDinastía Vivanco, which spent half a century amassing a collection ofart and artefacts to show how wine has been celebrated around theworld throughout history. We particularly enjoyed the video from insidea fermentation tank, and the interactive aroma pods designed to testyour senses. The E6 entry price includes one wine tasting sample. Theplace appears as popular with locals as visitors; in the café area acrowd had gathered around a table where, in a timeless scene ofvillage life, old men were playing a heated card game. We enjoyed agood lunch in the stylish restaurant, looking out on vineyards whilesampling innovative seasonal dishes by head chef Maribel Frades.

Maribel trained at El Bulli, and it seems most ambitious Spanishchefs have undergone apprenticeships there with Ferran Adrià, or atJuan-Mari Arzak’s venerated eaterie in San Sebastián. But 45 minutes

La Rioja has long been

the secret of smart Basque

urbanites seeking a gastronomic

weekend break and increasing

flights to Bilbao have opened up

Rioja as an ideal long-weekend

destination for global gastronomes

TRAVEL INFORMATION

GETTING THERERyanair (0870 1569569; ryanair.com) flies direct from London Stansted and Dublin to Vitoria Gasteiz from £27 return including taxes. EasyJet (0905 8210905; easyjet.com) flies direct from London Stansted to Bilbao, return fares from £41.

GETTING AROUNDAll the major car hire companies can be found at Bilbao’s airportincluding Avis (avis.co.uk) and Europcar (europcar.co.uk).

RESOURCESRutadelvinoderiojaalavesa.com is a guide to touring thewineries in the Basque region of Alava.LaRioja.com is the official tourism site of La Rioja province and has itineraries, an online events diary and a guide to the sights of the region.Laguardia Tourist Office, Palacio Samaniego, Plaza de SanJuan (00 34 945 600845; laguardia-alava.com) is in the centre of Laguardia, with helpful literature and maps.

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WHILE THE RIOJAREGION FORGESINTO THE FUTURE,TRADITIONALSIGHTS ANDCUSTOMS STILLTHRIVE; BELOW:BODEGAS YSIOSWITH THECANTABRIANMOUNTAINSBEHIND

The cooler Basque region north of the river is known for its fruity young Tempranillos, while Rioja Baja, the biggest, hottest and lowest altitude area, has robust and peppery Garnacha wines

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south from Haro you can sample the talents of a Riojan chef whotrained with both these culinary heavyweights. Francis Paniego isblazing a trail for a new generation of Spanish cuisine at Echaurren, therestaurant where he was awarded the region’s first Michelin star.Echaurren, located in Rioja’s ski resort of Ezcaray, is actually twocontrasting restaurants under one roof. To the right, Paniego’s motherMarisa Sanchez runs the classic Echaurren restaurant servingtraditional Riojan dishes like such as patitas de cordero (lamb’s feet ina tomato sauce), piquillo peppers and croquetas. On the other side oftheir shared kitchen is El Portal, where Francis transforms localingredients and dishes into inventive, modern cuisine. His helado dejamón ibérico, Iberian ham ice-cream, draws Heston Blumenthalcomparisons. Francis has a laboratory where he experiments and he’sfond of gadgets too, like his laser thermometer, key to his signature dishof merluza confitada – hake cooked in smoking oil at an optimumtemperature of 45ºC to get a wonderful texture and flavour.

Eating here sums up what food in Rioja is about – the best qualitylocal ingredients and loyalty to regional traditions. Perhaps the mostclassic, and simple, dish you’ll come across throughout the region ispatatas a la Riojana – local morcilla or chorizo sautéed in olive oil withonion and garlic before potatoes and water are added and simmeredto a stew-like consistency. Delicious vegetables grown in the southernRioja Baja – green beans, asparagus, artichokes and thick stalks ofwhite asparagus – are ubiquitous, but meat is the big deal here and nopart goes to waste. Pig meat, in particular, is used with greatinventiveness, including snout, ears and trotter. Other local staplesinclude chuletas de cerdero (lamb cutlets grilled over smouldering vineroots), a perfect match for a glass of Rioja.

Back north and east over the Ebro, the region of Rioja Alavesa is thehome of some of the most cutting-edge winery designs, and theboldest to date has just opened in the quiet town of Elciego. The long-anticipated City of Wine at the Marques de Riscal bodega is a $77million project designed by Frank Gehry that includes a luxury hotel,wine spa, visitor centre and second Francis Paniego restaurant. Gehrywas persuaded to do the build when the winery gave him a bottle from1926, his birth year. His design, using his distinctive calling card ofbillowing titanium sheets in silver, gold and pink, is symbolic of theregion’s soaring confidence. It is not the first iconic winery design forRioja, however. Nearby is Bodegas Ysios, an undulating winery instantlyrecognisable as the work of Santiago Calatrava, which produces justone wine, a silky rich Reserva.

You get the best view of Ysios from Rioja Alavesa’s regional capitalLaguardia, a very walkable medieval walled town. Children run aroundwhile grandparents sit and watch the world go by. One lively group ofnonagenarians sitting on a bench with their walking sticks, flexed their(non-existent) muscles at us, saying that a lifetime of drinking Rioja haskept them looking young. There are many wineries between here andSan Vicente de la Sonsierra, along the road that shadows the

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel AC Logroño, C/Madre de Dios 21, 26004 Logroño (00 34 941 272350; ac.hotelsearch.com). Rooms in this 5-starhotel are a sleek and contemporary mix of wood and white.Doubles from £54 per night.Castillo El Collado, Paseo El Collado 1, 01300 Laguardia (00 34 945 621200; hotelcollado.com). On the walls of Laguardiatown, this castle has been restored in a rustic style. Each room is unique and the suite at the top, ‘Amor y Locura’ (love andmadness), has its bath by windows that look out towards theCantabrian mountains. Doubles from £74 per night.Hospedería Señorío de Casalarreina, Plaza Santo Domingode Guzmán 6, 26230 Casalarreina (00 34 941 324730;hotelesconencanto.org). Located next to a Dominican monastery,whose beautiful façade can be seen from many of the hotel’swindows. Its 15 rooms, each with giant whirlpool baths, are full of character with beamed ceilings and big stone walls. Doublesfrom £90 per night.Hotel Los Agustinos, San Agustín 2, 26200 Haro (00 34 941311308; hotellosagustinos.com). This 4-star hotel was formerly a14th-century convent, and has a fantastic courtyard and cloisters.Doubles from £90 per night.Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Calle Torrea 1, 01340 Elciego, Rioja Alavesa (00 34 945 606595; starwood.com). The muchanticipated Starwood hotel that forms part of Gehry’s City of Wine has now officially opened its doors, so guests can try outamenities including the Cauderlie wine spa. Hotel Villa de Ábalos, Plaza Fermin Gurzindo 2, 26339 Ábalos,Rioja Alta (00 34 941 334302; hotelvilladeabalos.com). Locatedin the tiny village of Ábalos, this family-run villa also organisestasting courses, winery visits and vineyard tours on bikes.Doubles from £53 per night.Antigua Bodega Don Cosme Palacio, Ctra Elciego s/n,Laguardia, 01300, Rioja Alavesa (00 34 945 621195;habarcelo.es). An old winery converted into guestaccommodation with 12 rooms, a good restaurant, and winecourses one weekend a month. Doubles from £49 per night.

FAR RIGHT:VICTORINOEGURENUGARTE OFBODEGASHEREDADUGARTE,LOOKING TO THE FUTUREBUTRESPECTINGTHE PAST

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LEFT, LESLIEWATERS. AWARDWINNING HONEY ATSHERBOURNFARMERS MARKET.DORSET DOWNMUSHROOMS. ONEOF DENHAYS MANYROSETTES. RIGHTSHERBOURNECATHEDRAL. FRARIGHT VIEW OVERGOLDEN CAP.BLACKBOARD ATWASHINGPOOLFARM SHOP,APPLES FROM

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Cantabrian mountains. Be sure to fit in an almuerzo at one of them. Notcontent with long lunches and digestion-defying dinners, Riojans alsoset aside time for food mid-morning, fortifying themselves with Idiazabelcheese, chorizo and, of course, a glass of Rioja. Ending the day nearSonsierra, we ate at Casa Toni – another family-run affair offering modernand traditional cuisine. Like many top restaurants, the only thing lackingis the décor – we eat staring at a hideous mural, listening to muzak.

Logroño, with its minimalist 5-star hotel, is a good urban base fromwhich to explore the area to the south. The Juan Alcorta winery nearbyis all sleek lines and sliding doors. This is one of the world’s biggestwineries, with tanks and barrels stretching as far as the eye can see.Yet wine and architecture aside, the best reason for visiting Rioja’sbodegas is the overwhelming hospitality you receive, which wasparticularly evident at our final stop, Bodegas Corral in Navarette, tenkilometres from Logroño. Owner Javier Martinez Blanco greeted us likean old friend and we went for a last Riojan lunch at the wonderful Ventade Moncavillo restaurant to try his excellent new single estate winemade from just ten hectares of aged vines. Post lunch, we take a walkalong the path cutting through Corral’s vineyards, which is part of thePilgrim Route that leads to Santiago. It brings it home that vineyards likethese were here when the first pilgrims made their journeys of faiththrough the region. Rioja may be moving excitedly forward into thefuture, but you also feel the ancient, timeless legacy of winemakingwherever you go. In Rioja, you have the best of both worlds.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Echaurren Hotel and Restaurant, C/ Héroes del Alcázar 2,26280 Ezcaray (00 34 941 354047; echaurren.com). Twoexcellent restaurants under one roof run by mother and son teamMarisa Sanchez and Francis Paniego. The tasting menu costs£47 per person.La Venta de Moncalvillo, Medrano 6, 26373 Daroca de Rioja(00 34 941 444832; ventamoncalvillo.com). Family-run affair welloff the beaten track, but worth seeking out for dishes cookedwith the finest local ingredients.Bar Soriano, Travesía del Laurel 2, Logroño (00 34 941228807). The best bar on Logroño’s tapas street, which hasserved just one dish for 34 years – a stack of mushroomssautéed in a garlicky oil. Around 80 pence for a ‘champi’.Casa Toni, Zumalacárregui 27, 26338 San Vicente de laSonsierra (00 34 941 334001). A family business for 40 years,this is run by three brothers and a sister. Head chef Jesús Sáezfavours both the traditional and avant-garde. Try the red wine ice-cream. Around £37 per person for four-course meal with wine.Dinastía Vivanco Restaurant, Carretera Nacional 232, 26330Briones (00 34 941 322340; dinastiavivanco.com).Contemporary cuisine in the restaurant of the wine museum.Dine with a view of the vineyards and Briones beyond. It offersfour tasting menus ranging from £16 to £39 per person.

WHERE TO SAMPLE THE WINESBodegas Bilbaínas, Estación, 3. 26200 Haro, Rioja Alta (00 34 941 310147; bodegasbilbainas.com). Visits by appointment.Bodegas Corral, Carretera de Logrofio KM10, 26370 Navarette (00 34 941 440193; donjacobo.es).Bodegas Luis Cañas, Ctra Samaniego No 10, 01307 Villabuena,Rioja Alava (00 34 945 623373; luiscanas.com).Bodegas Heredad Ugarte, Ctra A-24, 01300 Paganas Laguardia,Rioja Alava (00 34 945 282844;heredadugarte.com).Bodegas Ysios, Camino de La Hoya, 01300 Laguardia, Rioja Alava(00 34 945 600640; bodegasysios.com).