22415 MS Footwear Omsl 4mm

Mailing address: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam, The NetherlandsPhone: +31 10 201 34 34 Fax: +31 10 411 40 81E-mail: [email protected] Internet: http://www.cbi.nl

Office and showroom: WTC-Beursbuilding, 5th floor37 Beursplein, Rotterdam, The Netherlands

CENTRE FOR THE PROMOTION OF IMPORTS FROM DEVELOPING COUNTRIES

FOOTWEAR

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EU MARKET SURVEY 2002

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II VOLUME II


FOOTWEAR

Compiled for CBI by:

Drs. Jan P. Servaas

August 2002

DISCLAIMERThe information provided in this market survey is believed to be accurate at the time of writing. It is, however, passedon to the reader without any responsibility on the part of CBI or the authors and it does not release the reader from theobligation to comply with all applicable legislation.

Neither CBI nor the authors of this publication make any warranty, expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy ofthe information presented, and will not be liable for injury or claims pertaining to the use of this publication or theinformation contained therein.

No obligation is assumed for updating or amending this publication for any reason, be it new or contrary informationor changes in legislation, regulations or jurisdiction.

Updated version of CBI’s Market survey “Footwear” published in September 2001.

Photo courtesy:

Jop Rijksbaron

CONTENTS

REPORT SUMMARY 6

1 PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS 81.1 Product groups 81.2 Products 81.3 Customs/statistical product classification 10

2 INTRODUCTION TO THE EU MARKET 11

3 CONSUMPTION OF FOOTWEAR 133.1 Market size 133.2 Market segmentation 163.3 Consumption patterns and trends 18

4 PRODUCTION 214.1 Footwear production in the EU 214.2 EU Outward Processing Trade 24

5 IMPORTS 265.1 Total imports 265.2 Imports by product group 335.3 The role of developing countries 38

6 EXPORTS 426.1 EU exports of footwear 42

7 TRADE STRUCTURE 457.1 EU trade channels 45

7.1.1 Manufacturers 457.1.2 Agents 467.1.3 Importers/wholesalers 467.1.4 Retailers 46

7.2 Distribution channels for developing countries 53

8 PRICES AND MARGINS 548.1 Margins 548.2 Prices 558.3 Sources of price information 55

9 OPPORTUNITIES FOR DEVELOPING COUNTRY EXPORTERS 56

APPENDICES1 Detailed classification of footwear, by Harmonised System Code 582 Detailed import and export statistics of footwear by product type and area of origin into the EU, 1998-2000 613 Specification of imports of footwear by product type into major EU countries 1998-2000 644 Trade associations 695 Trade fair organisers 716 Trade press 737 Business Support Organisations 758 Other useful addresses 769 List of developing countries 7810 List of major buyers of footwear in The Netherlands 7911 List of major buyers of footwear in the EU 8712 Useful internet sites 89

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REPORT SUMMARY

IntroductionThis survey profiles the market for footwear in theEuropean Union (EU) and is an updated and extendedversion of the former CBI survey Footwear, publishedin July 1996. The emphasis of the survey lies on thoseproducts, which are of importance to developingcountry suppliers. The major national markets withinthe EU for those products are highlighted. The surveyincludes contact details of importers, trade associations,and other relevant organisations. Furthermore, statisticalmarket information on consumption, production andtrade, and information on trade structure and prices andmargins is provided. As an exporter, you need this information to formulateyour own market and product strategies. In order toassist you with this, CBI has also developed a matchingEU Strategic Marketing Guide for Footwear. It offers apractical handbook for exporters engaged, or wishing toengage, in exporting footwear to the EU. It aims tofacilitate exporters in formulating their own market andproduct strategies through the provision of practicalinformation and a methodology of analysis and ready-to-fill-in frameworks. As mentioned above, statistical market information onconsumption, production and trade, and information ontrade structure and prices and margins, which isrequired for the ready-to-fill-in frameworks, can befound in this EU Market Survey.

Market research This EU Market Survey and the EU StrategicMarketing Guide serve as a basis for further marketresearch: after you have read this survey and filled inthe frameworks in the strategic marketing guide it isimportant to further research your target markets, saleschannels and potential customers. Market research depends on secondary data (data thathave been compiled and published earlier) and primarydata (information that you collect yourself). An example of secondary data is this EU MarketSurvey. Primary data are needed when secondary datafall short of your needs, for example when researchingyour specific type of consumer about the acceptance ofyour specific product. Sources of information areamong others (statistical) databanks, newspapers andmagazines, market reports, (annual) reports frombranch associations, but also shops in target countries,products or catalogues from your competitors, andconversations with suppliers, specialists, colleagues andeven competitors. After you received/collected yourinformation you should analyse it. In order to judge theattractiveness of the market, sales channel or customer,you should use/develop a classification or score system.For more detailed information on market research,reference is made to CBI’s Export Planner (2000).

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Together with other CBI publications, like “Products”and the “Environmental Quick Scan Leather”, a fairlycomplete overview is given to manufacturers/exporters in developing countries, who wish to sell tothe EU market. Seasonal fashion information onclothing and colours, which may be an indication forfootwear fashion, can be obtained from CBI’s FashionForecasts. Some of these sources of information arealso available on the CBI web site.

SurveyThe survey “Footwear” includes outdoor footwear,sports and leisure footwear and indoor footwear formen, women and children. Consumption of footwear in the EU grew by 3.3 percent in the period 1998-2001 to € 53.2 billion (US$ 47.9 bn). Based on preliminary figures, a furthergrowth is expected for the next five years. The footwearmarket has tended to be characterised by cheap,mass-produced items, but in recent years there has beensome movement away from such products towardshigher quality, more individual footwear.Germany is still the most important country in footwearconsumption in the EU, despite a smaller growth thanthe EU average. Germany is followed by Italy, UK,France, and Spain and at a distance by The Netherlands.The five first mentioned leading countries account for81 percent of EU footwear consumption.In many EU countries, the demand for formal (dress shoes) footwear is declining in favour of casualand leisure/sportswear, which implies higher increasingsales in terms of volume rather than in terms of value. Footwear production in the EU decreased from 1,081 million pairs in 1997 to 910 million in 2000. It sank for the first time below the one billion pair levelin 1999 and continued its fall with 5 percent in 2000 asit relocated to other, and especially former Eastern bloc,countries. Italy remained the EU’s leading footwearproducer with almost 43 percent of total EU production,followed by Spain (22%), Portugal (12%) and France(11%). Around 280,000 employees worked in the EUfootwear industry in 2000, while this number was still325,000 in 1995. The footwear industry is relativelylabour-intensive, added to which increasing costs andcompetition from cheap imports have pressedmanufacturers to specialise in niches (luxury, safety ororthopaedic footwear) or to shift production to abroadvia the outward processing route. The footwearmanufacturing industry in two countries, Italy and The Netherlands showed (limited) positive developments,but at the other end of the scale, significant reductionshad been recorded by many other EU producers. For example, UK footwear production plummetednearly 46 percent, followed by Belgium 25%, France13%, Germany 9% and Spain 4%.

EU imports of footwear amounted to € 19.4 billion(US$ 17.9 bn) in 2000. Germany remained the leadingimporter, with an import share of 22 percent in terms ofvalue, followed by UK (17%), France (15%), Italy(13%) and The Netherlands (8%). Belgium rankedsixth, followed by Austria. EU imports of footwear decreased by 4.4 percent in theperiod 1999-2000. Developments in import of footwearvary strongly per country. EU countries can be divided,by developments in value of imports during this period,into very strongly decreased imports (falling more than10%) in Portugal, Finland, Germany and Belgium andbooming imports (rising more than 10%) in Spain.Between these extremes, imports in Italy, France,The Netherlands, Denmark and Ireland grew, whileimports in the other EU countries fell. EU imports from developing countries increased interms of volume (+ 19%) but against lower prices (-6%). Developing countries gain from the lower intra-EU imports, just like other countries from outsidethe EU like Romania and Taiwan. Italy remained the leading supplier to the EU market inthe category outdoor footwear with uppers of leatherwith 141 million pairs in 2000 above Portugal, Vietnam,Spain and China. China remained the EU’s leadingsupplier in the product groups plastic/or rubberfootwear for sports and outdoor. Sports footwear withuppers of textiles came mainly from China, Belgiumand Vietnam, indoor footwear with uppers of textilesfrom China and Spain; outdoor footwear with uppers oftextiles from Vietnam and China.

China remained the leading exporter of footwear to theEU, however, the difference with number two Vietnambecame very small in terms of value. EU imports fromChina rose from US$ 1,261 million in 1998 to US$ 1,661 million in 2000, while imports fromVietnam rose from US$ 967 million in 1998 to US$ 1,509 million in 2000.The growth in imports from developing countries in2000 can be ascribed to the following categories:• Asian low price suppliers, like China and Vietnam.

Other countries from the Far East with sharplyincreased exports to the EU were Cambodia, Macaoand Malaysia.

• CEECs, like Bosnia & Herzegovina, Moldova andSlovenia.

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The EU member states exported US$ 16.5 billion (€ 17.9 bn) in 2000, representing a fall in value ofalmost 10 percent in the period 1998-2000. In terms ofvolume, EU exports decreased from 967 million pairsin 1998 to 936 million in 2000. The fall in EU exportswas the result of lower exports to countries outside theEU: in value (- 12%) and in volume (- 7%). The leading EU exporter is Italy with 43 percent oftotal EU exports, at a distance followed by Spain,Belgium, Portugal, Germany, France and The Netherlands. The main destinations outside the EUwere the USA (13 percent of total exports and 35 percent of extra-EU exports in 2000, followed bySwitzerland, Japan and Russia).

Specialised retailers (footwear multiples andindependent footwear retailers) accounted for 65 percent of total retail sales in 2001. The marketshare of non-specialised distributors became limited.Other important developments are increasingconcentration and growing internationalisation or cross-border activities, of which the main (besidesmany others) examples are Garant Schuh AG inGermany and sports formula like Intersport and Sport2000. Generally spoken, domestic manufacturers andwholesalers/importers distribute footwear directly to theretail trade. With regard to imports from outsideEurope, wholesalers/importers, large multiples andbuying cooperatives mainly act as contractors.

The keen competition on the footwear market willsteadily increase and this leads to further possibilitiesfor exporters from low-cost countries.A start for exporters, which involves limited risks, is totry to acquire fixed orders for products specified by theclient, because the latter has the best knowledge of hismarket. Exporters in the footwear sector are confrontedwith many aspects like sizing, packaging,environmental aspects. These result in a lot of legal andtechnical requirements, added to which are aspects ofdesign and fashionability leading to qualityrequirements, market developments etc. The role of wholesalers/importers will stabilise, whilethe role of footwear multiples and, to a lesser degree,buying groups or franchise formula will increase in thecoming years. The buying policies of super- andhypermarkets vary from direct imports by theinternational operating chains to buying fromwholesalers/importers.

1.1 Product groupsFootwear is categorised in several ways in officialstatistics, according to:• end use: waterproof footwear, safety footwear, sports

footwear, indoor footwear and other footwear(outdoor footwear if not classified before);

• raw materials used for the uppers and the soles.Uppers can be of leather, synthetic leather, plastic,rubber or textile (canvas). Outer soles may be ofleather, plastic, rubber, wood, cork and othermaterials;

• end user: for children, for women and/or for men; • footwear height: varying from not covering the

ankle, covering the ankle but under the calf, andother covering the ankle (calf-, mid-calf-, knee- andthigh-length);

• in some cases a distinction is made for aspects likethe height of the heels including soles (more than 3 cm) or the presence of a vamp of straps or piecescut out.

Other definitions can be made by the method ofattaching the upper to the sole or other productiontechniques. Defining types of footwear by their end use or wearingcircumstances gives the following breakdown (besidesthe breakdown into women’s, men’s and children’sfootwear) into four major segments:• Outdoor footwear; this segment which is also

indicated as town or street wear, is made up of awide variety of products such as shoes (pumps,moccasins, loafers, Oxford shoes etc.), boots (ankle-, calf-, knee- or thigh-high), clogs, some typesof sandals etc. Using the link to clothing behaviour, a breakdowncan be made in formal (dress shoes), casual andleisure/sports footwear. However, sandals can beclassified as casual as well as leisure/sport footwear,while some models even can be classified as formalwear.

• Sports and leisure footwear; this segment coverssports wear with on the one side, trainers or runners,made for jogging and other sports activities, butwhich are also worn for every day use, and on theother side more specific technical products forfootball, cycling athletics, skiing etc. This segmentalso includes footwear with a leisure character, liketextile uppers especially for summer wear such assneakers, rope-soled sandals, plimsolls etc.

• Indoor footwear; this segment includes slippers(carpet, bedroom and house slippers) and mules.Carpet slippers are indicated as “Pantoffel” inGermany and in The Netherlands and as“charentaise” in France.

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• Work, hunting and safety footwear. Safetyfootwear offers protection adapted to the type ofwork involved and often covers shoes and boots witha built-in steel toecap designed to prevent crushingdamage to the toes. Distribution and end-use iscompletely different from the other segments offootwear. For that reason this segment is notconsidered in this survey and we refer to the CBIsurvey and guide “Personal Protective Equipment”.

Besides the distinction based on wearing circumstances,a breakdown can be made by: materials used for uppers(leather, rubber/plastic, canvas/textile etc.) and outersoles (leather, rubber, plastic, synthetic leather, woodetc.). The criterion for footwear for adults or forchildren in statistics is the size of the inner sole: aninner sole of less than 24 cm is considered to bechildren’s wear in this survey.

1.2 ProductsIn this paragraph a (not exhaustive) overview is givenof the enormous varieties in types of footwear. Most ofthese types are not used in statistics and for that reasonnot discussed further in this survey.

Types of footwearFootwear is the generic term for foot coverings.Footwear with the opening below the ankle is a shoe,those with the top of the foot exposed are pumps, andthose with the opening above the ankle are classified asboots. In addition, those items which do not fullyenclose the foot are sandals when used outdoors andslippers when used indoors. A classification can bemade in shoes, sandals and slippers, boots and sportshoes or sneakers.Shoes - outer covering for the foot which does notreach higher than the ankle, basically made up of thesole (under the foot), the vamp (front part), the quarter(back part) and the shank (portion under the instep).Shoes may be of the slip-on variety (pumps ormoccasins) or closed with laces (oxford-type), bucklesor Velcro ®.• Pumps; this kind of slip-ons has a large opening for

the foot (rounded or V-shaped) so the top of the foot

1 PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS

is exposed. It usually has a medium to high heel,sometimes covered with the same material as theupper, sometimes with open toe and/or open heel insling back style. Names of pumps are for instance:high heel (5 cm or more), mid/low heels, ankle strap,sling backs, one-strap shoe, open toe, cross strap, flatshoes, T-strap shoes, back and side open, one-pointshoes, ballet pumps etc. A British name for a pumpis court shoe.

• Moccasins and loafers; characteristics of themoccasin are that upper and sole are in one pieceand the shoe is closed by stitching in the vamp (not at the back as is usual); in this form mainly usedas indoor wear. For outdoors, the outer sole and heelare attached to the bottom and can be identified bythe absence of an inner sole. The loafer is essentiallya two-piece moccasin but has a hard sole and a strapor saddle, made of leather, over the instep. Names ofloafers are: tassel-top loafers, chain loafers, andpenny loafer. The loafer is an example of a dressytype of shoe, while the moccasin (Indian moccasin,leather deck shoes etc.) can be classified as a sport orleisure type.

• Oxford shoes is the generic name for lace-up shoes,like Brogue shoes a closed front tie shoe, the uppercomprising several parts each punched and serrated(gimped) along the margins, together with a punchedand gimped wing cap. A brogue effect is oftenachieved in other styles of shoe by punching andgimping. Brogues are the formal name for wing tipshoes.

Sandals - open type of shoes (backless, with or withouta heel); held on foot by means of straps, like: chappalor chuplee (originating in India), ankle-strap, T-strap,gladiator and platform sandal or with a band over theinstep that holds the shoe on the foot, like: slides, clogs(made with thick sole of wood or cork), mules withheel open or the so-called Hepburn sandal with toe andheel open.

Slippers - include several types of carpet, bedroom orhouse slippers, mules (UK), evening slippers etc.Slippers are not intended to be worn outdoors.Examples of slippers are the low-heel boudoir slipper,the hostess slipper, Grecian slippers etc.

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Boots - the generic term for footwear with the openingabove the ankle and indicating several lengths (ankle-high and calf-high or reaching the knee or the thigh).Can be classified as utility (hunting, climbing etc.)boots and fashion boots, the latter is not intended to bewaterproof. Ankle boots are: jodhpur boot, desert boot (or chukkaboot or floats), side gore boot (or Chelsea boot),mukluk, demi-boot, george boot etc. The generic namefor calf-length boots is high-low boots, specific typesare cowboy boot, Courrèges boots etc. Types of knee-length boots are Wellington, (turnover) top bootsetc. Boots that reach the thigh are called stocking or fitboots.

Sports footwear - nearly all sport activities requirespecific footwear. The link with leisure started alreadyin the 1920s when tennis became popular and adultsadopted sneakers and plimsolls, before that time onlyworn by children. In the 1950s the basketball bootovertook the sneaker in particular for men’s footwear,of which the most famous brand was Converse’s All Stars. Training shoes (trainers) and runners aresome of the many other names. The name of sneakers was replaced by gym shoes ortennis shoes of white canvas and is now used for arange of low and high sports shoes.The leading brands (Nike, Reebok, Adidas, Puma andFila) use some of the following types of sports shoes intheir assortment: running (with or without reflectingdetails), cross training, conditioning (aerobics andfitness), workout, outdoor or hiking, leisure, walkingand fitness. Most of these sports items are now worn innon-working circumstances by consumers of every age.

Usage of sports shoes for sports like soccer, athletics(spikes), baseball, skiing, surfing etc. is limited to theirspecific activities.

1.3 Customs/statistical productclassification

Products can be specified by the HarmonisedCommodity Description and Coding System (HS).These numbers are used for both Customs andstatistical purposes in EU member countries. The number clearly identifies a specific product, so it ispossible to see which types of footwear are concernedand which materials are used. Referring to the codenumber can therefore facilitate communication andeliminate misunderstanding about the type of footwear. Chapter 64 –“Footwear, leggings, similar articles andparts thereof”- is the relevant section of the HS code.The key product group headings are:

HS code Product group64.01 Waterproof footwear64.02 Footwear with outer soles and uppers of

rubber or artificial plastic material64.03 Footwear with leather uppers64.04 Footwear with textile uppers, soles of

rubber and plastic64.05 Footwear with synthetic leather uppers,

slippers and other indoor shoes with textileand other uppers

64.06 Parts of footwear

Appendix I of this survey gives full information on theHS codes relevant for all different types of footwear.Please note that the product groups falling under the HScodes presented in section 1.3 are not completely in linewith the product groups mentioned in section 1.1 andsection 1.2. Moreover, different statistical sources usedifferent product groups or specifications. This places limitations on in-depth interpretation oftrade figures and of the possible relationships betweenimport figures and production and consumption data.

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The European Union (EU) is the current name for theformer European Community. Since 1 January 1995 theEU has consisted of 15 member states. Negotiations arein progress with a number of candidate member states,many of which already have extensive trade and co-operation agreements with the EU. In 2000, the size of the EU population totalled 376.5 million, of which two thirds in the age category15-64 years.

The most important aspect of the process of unification(of the former EC countries), which affects trade, is theharmonisation of rules in the EU countries. As theunification allows free movement of capital, goods,services and people, the internal borders have beenremoved. Goods produced or imported in one memberstate can be moved around between the other memberstates without restrictions. A precondition for this freemovement is uniformity in the rules and regulationsconcerning locally produced or imported products.Although the European Union is already a fact, all theregulations have not yet been harmonised. Work is inprogress on uniform regulations in the fields ofenvironmental pollution, health, safety, quality andeducation.

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On 1 January 1999, the euro (€) became the legalcurrency within eleven EU member states: Austria,Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Ireland,Luxembourg, The Netherlands, Spain, and Portugal.Greece became the 12th member in June 2000. Their national currencies are now subdivisions of theeuro and continued to circulate as legal tender until mid2002. Circulation of euro coins and banknotes startedon 1 January 2002 and these will gradually replacenational currency notes and coins, which must bewithdrawn by 1 July 2002.

The most recent Eurostat trade statistics quoted in thissurvey are from the year 2000. On 1 January 1999,statistical and contractual values in ECU wereconverted into euro (€) on a 1:1 exchange rate. The euro/US$ exchange rate stood ultimo June 2002 at US$ 0.9820 for one euro. The US dollar is the basic currency unit used to indicatevalue in this market survey, while most recent years arealso expressed in euros.

2 INTRODUCTION TO THE EU MARKET

Table 2.1 Overview population and age groups in the EU at 1 January 2000

Total 0-14 15-64 65 years Yearly averagepopulation years years and older growth in %in millions in % in % in % 1995-2000

Austria 8.1 17 68 15 0.5Belgium 10.2 18 66 16 0.3Denmark 5.3 18 67 15 0.4Finland 5.2 19 66 15 0.4France 59.3 19 66 15 0.6Germany 82.2 16 68 16 0.4Greece 10.5 16 68 16 0.3Ireland 3.8 23 66 11 1.1Italy 57.7 15 68 17 0.2Luxembourg 0.4 19 67 14 1.0Netherlands 15.9 18 69 13 0.7Portugal 10.0 17 68 15 0.3Spain 39.4 16 68 16 0.1Sweden 8.9 19 64 17 0.4United Kingdom 59.6 19 65 16 0.5EU (15) 376.5 17 67 16 0.4

Source: Eurostat

Trade figures quoted in this survey must be interpretedand used with extreme caution. The collection of dataregarding trade flows has become more difficult sincethe establishment of the single market on 1 January1993. Until that date, trade was registered by means ofcompulsory Customs procedures at border crossings,but, since the removal of the intra-EU borders, this isno longer the case. Statistical bodies like Eurostatcannot now depend on the automatic generation of tradefigures. In the case of intra-EU trade, statisticalreporting is only compulsory for exporting andimporting firms whose trade exceeds a certain annualvalue. The threshold varies considerably from countryto country, but it is typically about € 100,000. As aconsequence, although figures for trade between the EUand the rest of the world are accurately represented,trade within the EU is generally underestimated.This market survey highlights the following countriesbesides the EU in total: Germany, UK, France, Italy andThe Netherlands. These countries are the majorimporters of footwear in the EU in the ranking asmentioned. The ranking in order of consumption isGermany, UK, Italy, France, Spain and The Netherlands.

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Table 2.2 Exchange rates of EU currencies in US$, 1995-2001

Country Currency 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 mid2002

European Union ECU 1.25 1.13 1.12 - - -€ 1.065 0.922 0.900 0.982

Austria Ash 0.094 0.082 0.081 0.077 0.068 0.065 -Belgium Bfr 0.032 0.028 0.028 0.026 0.023 0.022 -Denmark Dkr 0.17 0.15 0.15 0.14 0.12 0.12 0.13France Ffr 0.20 0.17 0.17 0.16 0.14 0.14 -Finland FM 0.22 0.19 0.19 0.18 0.16 0.15 -Germany DM 0.66 0.58 0.57 0.54 0.47 0.46 -Greece GRD 0.41 0.36 0.34 0.32 0.28 0.27 -Ireland I£ 1.60 1.52 1.42 1.38 1.20 1.17 -Italy L 0.65 0.59 0.58 0.55 0.48 0.46 -Netherlands NLG 0.59 0.51 0.51 0.48 0.42 0.41 -Portugal Esc 0.65 0.57 0.56 0.53 0.46 0.45 -Spain Ptas 0.79 0.68 0.67 0.64 0.55 0.54 -Sweden Skr 0.15 0.13 0.13 0.12 0.10 0.10 0.10United Kingdom GB£ 1.56 1.64 1.66 1.62 1.51 1.45 1.53

Source: CBS Statline (January 2002)

Information about consumption of footwear issignificant different between the separate EU memberstates. For that reason an uniform detailed overview ofconsumer expenditure on footwear by product types etc.cannot be given in this survey for the major countriesunder review.

3.1 Market size

EUConsumption of footwear in the EU grew by 3.3percent in the period 1998-2001, 2.2 percent in 1999,stabilised in 2000 and grew by 1.4 percent in 2001 to € 53.2 billion (US$ 47.9 bn). Based on preliminary figures, a further growth isexpected for the next five years. The footwear markethas tended to be characterised by cheap, mass-produceditems, but in recent years there has been somemovement away from such products towards higherquality, more individual footwear.Germany is still the most important country in footwearconsumption in the EU, as can be derived from table3.1, despite a smaller growth than the EU average in theperiod 1998-2001. Germany is followed by Italy, UK,France, and Spain and at a distance by The Netherlands.

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The five first mentioned leading countries account for81 percent of EU footwear consumption.

The footwear sector accounts for about 1.1 percent oftotal consumer expenditure in the EU. Consumptionpatterns of households vary substantially across the EU,due to differences in culture, traditions and tastes.Looking at the major EU countries, Spanish and Italianconsumers are the biggest spenders on footwear.French, UK and Netherlands consumption were higherthan the EU average consumption of footwear,while German consumption was lower.

Germany

The value of footwear consumption in Germanyincreased in the period 1998-2001 after some years ofdeclining, however, this growth occurred only to a veryslight degree. In volume terms, the German marketreached 379 million pairs in 2001. Average pricesdecreased in the period under review, while thefootwear spending per capita stabilised. Demographicdevelopments and a (weak) price inflation are the mainfactors of a slightly growing footwear market.Developments in the footwear market are the result ofmany factors like economic limitations

3 CONSUMPTION OF FOOTWEAR

Table 3.1 Consumption of footwear (€ million) in EU countries in 1998-2001 and expected developments in 2003-2006

1998 1999 2000 2001*) Per head Expected annual consumption growth

2000 2002-2006(in €) in %

Germany 10,507 10,554 10,560 10,729 133 1.6Italy 8,824 8,998 9,116 9,235 143 1.5United Kingdom 9,023 9,414 8,892 9,026 140 1.9France 8,044 8,121 8,197 8,273 138 1.5Spain 5,810 5,868 5,886 5,911 144 1.8The Netherlands 1,836 1,983 2,107 2,231 139 1.9Belgium 1,421 1,437 1,446 1,454 145 1.7Portugal 1,113 1,160 1,173 1,184 121 1.3Greece 998 1,089 1,120 1,135 113 1.3Austria 1,065 1,078 1,094 1,105 138 1.6Sweden 1,036 1,052 1,062 1,072 125 1.5Denmark 640 666 674 692 131 1.5Finland 592 598 608 617 122 1.2Ireland 437 453 462 470 131 1.4Luxembourg 61 64 64 65 145 1.8EU (15) 51,407 52,535 52,461 53,199 137 1.7

*) partly estimatedSources: FSO, Retail Intelligence and Eurostat

(consumer spending in Germany is weak compared toother major EU countries), intensive price competition(increasing market shares for non-specialist retailers),growing imports from low-cost countries (directimports as well as production abroad under the regimeof German manufacturers) etc.

Women’s footwear captures about 54 percent of thefootwear sector in Germany, while men’s footwearaccounts for 34 percent in terms of volume. Per capitaconsumption decreased from 4.8 pairs per person in1996 to 4.6 pairs in 2001, of which 2.4 pairs leather,1.8 pairs non-leather and 0.4 pairs of slippers.Per capita spending valued € 132 (US$ 122) in 2001,lower than the EU average of € 136 (US$ 125). The German footwear market has been polarising forseveral years. High priced footwear covers high-fashionbranded footwear for women, health and comfortfootwear for children and older adults (of which morewomen than men), while branded sports footwear isvery popular among young people. Lower pricedfootwear mostly covers unbranded imported footwear,especially shoes with textile uppers, mainly from Chinaand other East Asian countries like Vietnam, partly as aresult of an ineffective EU anti-dumping policy.These developments resulted in a fall in sales of mid-priced shoes.The most popular brands remained the shoe names ofthe two top retail chains Deichmann and Salamander.Branded shoes from clothing retailers have been doingwell (C&A). Popular brands in the sector comfortableshoes are Ara, Jenny, Gabor, Rieker, Domdorf, Ganter,Salamander and Sioux and in the sector children’sfootwear Elefanten, Ricosta and Salamander. In thesports sector, the two leading brands Adidas and Niketogether take around half the market, while Puma and

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Reebok together take a quarter. In the health sectorBirkenstock (sandals), Bama and Ganter are the mostpopular brands.

The Netherlands

In 2001, total consumer expenditure on footwear in The Netherlands amounted to € 2.2 billion (US$ 2.1bn), or 5.9 percent more than in the previous year. In 1999, there was even an increase of 6.1 percent toalmost € 2.1 billion (US$ 1.9 bn). The averageconsumption was € 139 per head, which is higher thanthe EU average. A lower annual growth of around 2 percent is expected for the next 5 years. In terms of volume, consumption grew 3.7 percent in1999, 5.2 percent in 2000 but decreased 0.8 percent toreach almost 68 million pairs in 2001.

Average prices of footwear rose 0.9 percent in 2000 and6.7 percent in 2001. Increased expenditure was theresult of the following aspects:• Consumers bought higher priced footwear.

Higher priced footwear concerns mainly luxury andhigh-quality shoes and for women also leather boots.Luxury and high-qualitity shoes (especially for men)are often made by domestic manufacturers (mainlyabroad);

• Consumers expanded their footwear collection,for instance by buying footwear for special events oroccasions; and,

• Popularity among (female) consumers for funshopping.

Brand loyalty is rather low in the footwear sector.According to an inquiry by Shoemonitor in 1999:75 percent of the Dutch consumers does not have afavorite brand. The most popular brands in the women’s

Table 3.2 Consumer expenditure on footwear in Germany, 1996-2000

1996 1998 2000Volume Value Volume Value Volume Value Value

mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln US$ mln

Footwear with leather uppers:Sports 22 1,167 21 1,085 22 1,088 1,002Sandals 36 847 38 791 37 708 652Town wear for:– Women 73 3,632 75 3,698 77 3,749 3,453– Men 44 2,140 43 2,245 45 2,406 2,216– Children 17 574 16 559 16 569 524Other 5 173 4 136 5 134 123Footwear with other uppers:– Slippers 29 271 28 298 29 304 280– Other 146 1,751 152 1,695 148 1,602 1,475Total 372 10,555 377 10,507 379 10,560 9,725

Sources: HBD and Euromonitor

sector are Ecco, Gabor and Clarks; in the men’s sectorvan Bommel, Ecco and Van Lier; in the children’ssector Piedro, Elefanten and Renata; in the sports sectorNike, Adidas, Reebok, Puma and Fila, and in the indoorfootwear sector Rohde, Blenzo and Romika. It has to be noted that the so-called spontaneous brandknowledge is rather low, with the exception of thesports sector.

Italy

Until 1997, the Italian consumer footwear marketshowed a trend towards more expensive products. In the years, which followed the market grew veryslowly in terms of volume and value. The decrease inItalian production (mainly fashion and sports) as wellas in export, a strong increase of imports (from Asiancountries as well as from other EU countries) caused apressure on prices. In terms of the Italian market for footwear by sector,leather footwear accounted for 70 percent of totalconsumption in 2000. Leather footwear was followedby footwear with synthetic and textile uppers,accounting for 13 and 9 percent of total consumption

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respectively. Compared to other sectors of the market,consumption of leather shoes decreased slightly overthe past three years, but nevertheless has been affectedsomewhat by the general reduction in consumerexpenditure. Per capita spending valued € 143 (US$ 132) in 2000,which was far above the EU average of € 137.

No detailed figures concerning footwear consumptionin Italy were available, so for that reason the figures intable 3.4 are derived from apparent consumption(calculated as production plus imports less export). The availability of detailed production figurescombined with trade statistics from Eurostat gives thefollowing figures.

The sector sports footwear performed well in the periodunder review, primarily due to an increase in importedbranded goods such as Nike and Reebok. The wearingof sports shoes, for purposes other than for sports, as areplacement for everyday leather shoes has beenchanged by an increased usage of casual varieties ofsports shoes.

Table 3.3 Consumer expenditure on footwear in The Netherlands, 1999-2001

1999 2000 2001Value % of Value % of Value Value % of

€ ’000 total € ’000 total € ’000 US$ ’000 total

– Women 902 45.5 946 44.9 1021 941 45.9– Men 516 26.0 547 26.0 575 530 25.7– Children 251 12.7 270 12.8 284 262 12.7– Sports 213 10.7 228 10.8 233 215 10.5– Other 101 5.1 116 5.5 118 109 5.2Total 1,983 100.0 2,107 100.0 2,231 2,057 100.0

Source: EIM, CBS

Table 3.4 Consumer expenditure (in volume and value) on footwear in Italy, 1998-2000



Footwear with uppers of:– leather 157.3 6,291 158.3 6,450 157.2 6,445 5,935– synthetic 55.7 1,134 54.4 1,109 58.2 1,196 1,102– rubber 8.1 132 8.3 126 8.5 131 121– textile 44.6 796 46.3 830 47.6 842 775– other 2.7 41 2.4 39 3.0 53 49Slippers 54.4 430 54.9 444 54.6 449 414Total 322.8 8,824 324.6 8,998 329.1 9,116 8,396

Sources: Eurostat and Euromonitor

Women’s footwear accounted for 54 percent of themarket in value in 2000. The share of this market hasbeen maintained by the relative unit value of moreexpensive types of footwear like women’s boots. Men’s and children’s footwear accounted for 25 and 21 percent respectively.

France

Nearly 320 million pair of shoes were sold in France in2000. According to the French Shoe Federationequivalent amounts will be sold in the next five years.

Women’s footwear captures about 50 percent of thefootwear sector in France, men’s footwear 33 andchildren’s 17 percent in terms of value. Per capitaconsumption stabilised in the period under review atabout 5.5 pairs per person, of which 2.2 pairs leather,2.7 pairs non-leather and 0.6 pairs of slippers.Per capita spending valued € 138 in 2000, which is justabove the EU average of € 137. The casual footwear segment, including leather andtextile uppers, was one of the fastest growing sectors ofthe last decade, particularly for children and youngpeople. The dictates of fashion play a more importantrole for ladies’ and teenagers’ footwear than for men’sshoes. Women buy shoes more often than men, whileteenagers of both sexes are the most prolific purchasers.

UK

Consumer expenditure on footwear in the UK rose by1.4 percent in terms of value in the period 1997-2001 toalmost € 9.0 billion (US$ 8.1 bn) and 5.4 percent involume to 220 million pairs. The British footwearmarket is dominated by imports. The strength of the

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local currency (pound sterling) coupled withcompetition on the high street has seen the index offootwear retail prices rise only 17 percent since 1987compared to a 67 percent inflation rate for all retailgoods in the same period. Per capita spending valued € 140 (US$ 129) in 2000,which is above the EU average.

In value terms, women’s footwear accounted for 49 percent of consumer expenditure in 2001, men’sfootwear for 34 percent, with children’s shoes takingthe balance of 15 percent. In volume terms, a differentpicture emerges because men buy fewer pair of shoeseach year but tend to spend a higher sum of money perpair. Consequently, women’s footwear accounts for 50 percent of volume sales, children’s footwear for 23 percent and men’s footwear takes 27 percent.In terms of purpose, trainers and sport shoes takearound 22 percent of the market with formal and casualfootwear (both categories excluding children’sfootwear) being the other major sectors with 25 and 28 percent respectively, which indicates a move fromtrainers to casual footwear.

3.2 Market segmentation

Segmentation by price/quality ratioThe footwear market comprises several officiallyrecognized sectors. In trade statistics, the market ismainly categorised by end user and materials used inmanufacturing, in particular for uppers. In terms of demand and fashion, five different marketsegments can be identified:

Table 3.5 Consumer expenditure (in volume and value) on footwear in France, 1998-2000



Footwear with leather uppers:Sports 7.8 312 6.8 275 7.1 284 262Sandals 19.7 635 19.9 608 20.3 626 576Town wear for:– Women 40.0 2,362 40.4 2,313 40.7 2,330 2,146– Men 25.5 1,433 26.5 1,492 26.2 1,496 1,378– Children 19.2 612 19.8 638 20.0 664 611– Other 11.1 352 10.6 372 10.6 340 313Footwear with textile uppers 104.6 862 99.4 816 101.2 822 757Footwear with other uppers 54.7 1,316 56.0 1,419 56.4 1,466 1,350Slippers 33.0 160 37.5 188 37.0 169 156Total 315.6 8,044 316.9 8,121 319.5 8,197 7,549

Source: derived from FNICF and Eurostat

Price/Quality Fashion/level1. Low/very low price/quality Trend imitators2. Low to middle price/quality Trend takers3. Middle/high price, classical, Comfort, fit

branded shoes fashion4. High fashion – price/quality, Trend makers

not necessarily high5. High price/quality Trend takers

The size of the segments distinguished varies percountry. Generally spoken can be said that the twoextremes are represented in all (major) EU countries.Concerning the other segments, some different patternsare shown: German consumers, with the exception of young people, are less fashion conscious thanconsumers in the other major EU countries and thesegments 3 and 2 are most important; French andItalian consumers are more oriented on segments 4 and 3 with preferences for the “dressual” shoe (a combination of dress and casual); consumers in theUK and The Netherlands are mainly oriented onsegments 2 and increasingly on 4. In the UK, highfashion can be combined with casual and sports shoes.It has to be noted that price is no longer the firstconsideration in the latter-mentioned countries as it wasfor many years. One of the consequences is that the consumer expectsretailers to have a clear image. In order to meet theseconsumer demands, we see many shoe stores going in

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for upgrading and, on the other side, discountersmaintain their operating at discount level. This will bediscussed in more detail in chapter 7 “Trade structure”.

Segmentation by user

– based on demographicsThe size and age structure of the population is one ofthe basic determinants of how much will be spent onfootwear. Table 2.1 in the previous chapter showed thecomposition by age groups of the population in the EU.Although this may appear to be a rough method forcategorising the market, it is interesting because:• generally speaking, different age categories have

different clothing behaviour including accessorieslike footwear, and

• developments within the various age categories can be followed, by comparing results with projections.

The EU population has a declining birth rate and anageing population. The category below 20 yearsdecreased considerably in the selected EU countries,.The categories 40 and older increase substantially. In 2000 about 40% of the total population was olderthan 45. As the “baby boom” generation becomes older,we see the population as a whole becoming “greyer”,apparent in the number of senior citizens above 55 years of age. However, the healthy and active seniorcitizens make up an important and growing marketsegment including sports and leisure activities and this

Table 3.6 Consumer expenditure (in volume and value) on footwear in UK, 1998-2000



Men’sFormal shoes and boots 10.7 705 11.4 692 11.2 669 602Casual shoes and boots 16.9 798 18.6 1,102 19.4 1,135 1,022Trainers and sport shoes 20.8 1,136 21.9 1,122 21.0 1,032 929Slippers 4.9 86 5.3 108 5.1 99 89Other 2.7 106 3.6 151 3.9 155 140Women’sFormal shoes and boots 29.8 1,735 30.9 1,738 30.8 1,630 1,467Casual shoes 26.7 1,086 27.8 1,165 27.5 1,107 996Sandals 15.4 602 17.1 709 16.9 658 592Canvas and sport shoes 16.7 681 17.7 754 16.5 641 577Slippers 13.4 287 13.2 214 13.5 212 191Other 2.9 105 3.8 152 3.6 148 133Children’sShoes and boots 18.9 854 18.7 698 19.4 721 649Sport shoes 18.2 523 19.7 596 19.6 595 535Sandals 5.4 63 6.0 91 6.2 94 85Other 5.8 132 4.7 122 5.9 130 117Total 209.2 8,899 220.4 9,414 220.5 9,026 8,124

Sources: TNS Fashion Trak and BFA

age group has a growing share of available disposableincome. Consumer requirements and aspirations differ bysegment of the population. Children are an importantsegment and purchasing patterns vary according to age.For children of the age of three years and younger,parents pay particular attention to the structure of theshoe (shape, rigidity, stiffeners which maintain the backof the shoe) and, more often than not, they are ready tobuy expensive good quality articles, to ensure a perfectdevelopment of the child’s foot. In this age group, it isthe adults who choose the footwear. When the childrenare aged between three and ten, parents still seek toacquire a sensible quality shoe, which will not damagethe foot, but choice is also guided by the size of thefamily budget and the child’s tastes.Pre-adolescents (10-14 years of age) have a strongdesire for freedom of choice. Boys have a preferencefor sportswear and often demand a certain model orbrand, which is particularly popular with their friends.Girls meanwhile often have long slim feet which havenot gained full maturity and consequently it is notalways easy for them to find shoes that fit. The juniorsaged 15-18 years are nearly totally independent in theirchoice of footwear, the only curb being the familybudget. Sports and outdoor-wear are very much to thefore, fired by the popularity of brands such as Nike andAdidas (sportswear), Doc Martens and Caterpillar(outdoor wear). Their choice is geared to socialrecognition and group membership. Meanwhile today’sparents have tastes which differ from those of their ownparents. Fashion-wise, the trend is towards easy to wearand easy to care garments; city wear has become morerelaxed and more geared to outdoor and sportswear.Products need to be versatile so that the same footwear,for instance, can be worn during the day at the officeand in the evening at parties of restaurants.

– based on socio-economic factorsThe slowdown in the global economy, the first signs ofwhich appeared in the middle of 2000 continued into2001. Private consumption in the EU has become moresubdued as consumers have become less optimisticregarding their financial prospects. Weaker employmentand wage prospects led to slower private consumptiongrowth. There are significant differences in consumption habitsin the varying EU countries, due to differences inculture, traditions and tastes. Footwear accounted for1.15 percent of household expenditure in the EU in2000, while this percentage was 1.30 percent in 1990.Consumer expenditure was higher on sectors likehealth, housing/energy, transport/communication andleisure/education activities.In 2000, spending on footwear was higher than the EUaverage in Spain and Italy, while it was lower than theEU average in Germany, UK and The Netherlands.Spanish consumers devoted the highest share of

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expenditure on footwear at 1.96 percent in 2000. The UK showed a modest growth in the last decade inspending on footwear, while in most other countries ithas significantly declined.

– based on life stylesToday, two consumers of the same age, same familystructure and same income may have extremelydifferent life styles, reflected in different buying habitsand product preferences. Clothing and footwear,more than ever, serves as the means of expression ofpersonality. Character, ideas and attitude to life areemphasised by the way a person dresses. Combinationfashion is eminently suited to expressing a personalstyle.Today, consumers set priorities in their pattern ofexpenditure according to their life style. The increasingly individualistic nature of society willbring about a rise in demand for goods with anexpressive value. People do not mind spending theirmoney on such goods, while for products with a lowerpriority, a low price is the main criterion.

– based on seasonal aspectsGenerally spoken, weather has an impact on the timingof expenditure, which tends to be highly seasonal.Unexpected weather changes influence consumers intheir purchasing decisions.

3.3 Consumption patterns and trends

Fashion and fashion trendsFootwear fashion is strongly related to fashiondevelopments in clothing behaviour. Fashion trends infootwear must necessarily be in harmony with those ofclothing and fashion requires substantial investment increativity: highly skilled designing, the right colours,materials etc. Fashion in footwear can be based on abasic model but also on specific features like colour,materials, shape, outer sole and heel-heights, decoration

Table 3.7 Share of spending on footwear in majorEU countries, 1990-2000 (in % of totalconsumer spending)

1990 1995 2000

France 1.33 1.20 1.15Germany 1.32 1.15 1.04Italy 1.57 1.41 1.36The Netherlands 1.05 0.94 0.93Spain 1.99 1.96 1.96United Kingdom 0.92 0.94 1.04EU (15) 1.30 1.19 1.16

Sources: Retail Intelligence and own research

(bows, buckles, ribbons etc.). There are also segmentswhere the idea of more or less permanent articles exist:safety footwear, wellingtons, rope soled sandals,slippers etc. However even in these segments thepressure of fashion is not absent.

In all EU countries we see a switch from formalclothing in favour of more casual wear; this trend hasalso affected the footwear market. Canvas casualfootwear and sports footwear (trainers) have becomeacceptable wear for non-work situations and are nowworn by every age group.Slippers traditionally worn around home are partlyreplaced by slip-on canvas shoes, espadrilles (rope-soled) or sports shoes. Waterproof and water-repellant footwear have becomemore popular in the EU, following the trends in theUSA. New leather techniques and high-tech membranesare used in all kinds of shoes, mainly developed for thesports sector, but also applied to casual and town shoes.Developments are also derived from the applications inmountain-climbing shoes and special work shoes.

Italian producers and designers lead footwear fashionand dominate the market for leather fashion shoes,while leading brands mainly from the USA dictatefashion in sports footwear. The fashion trends whichoriginate there are in turn adopted and modified byforeign importers including multiple buyers, who thenspecify their requirements to contract manufacturers. Although the number of older consumers is increasingand this will raise the demand for better fitting highquality shoes, there is a gradually increasing demandfor fashionable shoes for this age group as well.

The effects of fashion vary according to the type ofproduct. Women’s footwear is obviously the segmentmost influenced by fashion. According to the trade,around half of sales of women’s footwear is geared tofashion. Men meanwhile are far less influenced by thelatest styles and are said to be more interested incomfort and quality. They are even ready to spend alittle more so that their shoes last longer.

The following footwear trend prognoses apply tosummer 2003 and are published by the French trade fairMidec-Paris:

Changing moodsProspective studies of Summer 2003 announce aturning point in trends and consumer behaviour. New values are emerging and current fashion behaviouris taking a gentler tone. People aspire to more softnessand serenity, to temper the tensions in the outsideworld.Peace, patience, simplicity, delicacy, slowness, pleasureand hedonism are up-and-coming values. They expressa desire to preserve inner balance as a way of

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withstanding environmental stress and strain.A refocus on the essential excludes anything futile andfleeting. Although brands are still attractive, they areused as a refuge rather than for show. Simplicity isenjoyed as a luxury and confirms the need for a laid-back form of personal sophistication.The rejection of standardisation is another strikingfeature. Consumers now surf and zap, take pleasure inmixing genres and slip easily from one stylistic code toanother.In this shifting environment, commercial successdepends on many factors: innovation and creativity andthe imaginative touch that makes all the difference. A detail, an unusual material, an original finish or wayof wearing the item ... and the product rises out of thepurely functional sphere and goes straight to theconsumer’s heart.

Colour highlightsDelicate bleached colours and pale neutrals, which canbe extended to pastels. The sophisticated colours ofcosmetics, powder and faded petals, which go with thefeminine touch. Always a safe bet: traditional leathertones, symbolising refinement and elegance, beige,blond, ochre, honey, hazelnut, caramel and even verydark browns. Midsummer calls for sunny,mouth-watering colours: apricot, cherry, papaya, mint,lemon... A new palette of cool, grey, indeterminatecolours, inspired by the mineral and vegetablekingdoms. A range of clinical, refreshing colourssuggesting well-being and modernity, which harmonisewith neutrals or take a dynamic turn with brightaccents.

Highlights in materialsSensual textures and a trend towards softer leatherswith natural effects. A wave of romanticism andfemininity is expressed in leather or textiles by floralprints, hope-chest lace and embroidery, broderieanglaise, upholstery fabrics, brands and trims, refinedmaterials such as satin and feathers.A craze for cult materials (meaning genuine) – leather,denim, linen, jute as a fabric or cord, wood, straw,raffia. Oil cloth used in fun ways. Sophisticated roughand vintage effects which opt for the subtlety ofimperfection.An interest in leather and weaving which suggesthandcrafts and artistic skill just visually: leather ormixed medium plaiting, backed leather, macramé,decorative effects, painted leather or canvas.The increased use of laser techniques in design, and incutting leather or technical materials, opens up endlesspossibilities for decoration: cut-out motifs, lacy effects,an impression of broderie anglaise, tattooing or wearand tear.

Women and young adultsWomen’s fashion hesitates between practicality andpleasure. Being fashionable is no longer a matter of heelheights, or shapes (pointed, round and square toes getalong very well together), but of proportions, materials,colours and impulses, and mixing and matching genres.City: Old favourites that are easy to walk in are stillgoing strong: derbies, moccasins, brogues, city trainingshoes, stylish or retro sneakers given a sophisticatedclever use of materials, colour and tapered lines.Simpler, flat heels prevail: urban or romantic ballerinasfrom the dance world, low-cut on mini heels, point to acomeback of childhood values. New uses for sandals,babouches, flip flops, barefoot sandals and ethnicelements: beads, plaiting, feathers, embroidery andquirky mixes set the tone for a tribal or sophisticatedhybrid fashion.Midsummer: High-arched wedges are significant,especially in wood, cord and cork. Leg-wrappingsandals are in, and with them all uppers that tie higharound the leg, in rustic, poetic or even sexy versions.Wooden clogs are gaining ground, in a Zen spirit, orgaloshes version for indoor- and outdoor wear.Charming or sophisticated espadrilles are still with us.Outsider: The Western spirit for mules and summerboots and ankle boots. Revamped pumps are back,tapered or rounded and on heels of all heights.

Men and young adultsMen are taking more care of their appearance. It is notlonger socially out of place to be fashionable; on thecontrary it is a sign of modernity. Reassured by themedia, men are more confident in their tastes and opento more daring clothing.City: The boot-maker spirit with fine soles or broadwelts is still strong, along with sophisticated city-sportmodels on thin soles. For everyday comfort, casual slip-ons, sometimes inspired by indoor footwear, andsupple moccasins take the lead. Confidence in the newtechnologies leads to new behaviours and interest,practical footwear such as sporty modes with innovativefastenings and high-performance materials. Retro sportsplay on authenticity in all its forms and renovate biking,boxing, tennis shoes and city sneakers, while thepioneer spirit comes to town with high uppers leather orleather and canvas mixes.Sportswear and Midsummer: The nautical look isstill in but with a freebooter style for moccasins,soft-toed slip-ons, and barefoot sandals with a penchantfor cord, vintage buckles, brushed off leather and fadedcanvas. Comfort, protection and ergonomics are thebuzzwords for walking sandals and foot-huggingmodels with straps and functional ties. The interest inthe primitive arts, crafts and tradition is also found inmenswear, an African or Oriental trend for barefootsandals, Berber babouches, slip-ons and thongs inplaited, plain or backed leather. Espadrilles are backwith a casual, rustic or refined look.

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ChildrenExcept for the tiny tots, children’s footwear follows thelead of the grown-ups. Children have appropriated thestyles of their elders but added a dash of dream andescapism.For future playground champions, there are still unisexmodels from the sports world, just the thing for runningwild: boat shoes with a new twist, cycling, bowling,boxing, running and tennis shoes in canvas or leather,low-cut or with high uppers in a colourful, graphicspirit. Two or three colours personalised with stripes,topstitching, lettering, designs and, as a novelty, straps.Mary Janet, ballerinas and city sandals, follow suit forgirls with simpler lines and a modern air.The outdoor spirit in a safari mood for girls and boysalike, in warm sand and desert colours. Technicalrangers, Mohican moccasins, adventure sandals,genuine barefoot sandals and tough training shoesadvocate an all-terrain spirit and use tough canvasshockproof materials, rivets and treaded soles.The ethnic trend can be found in girls’ footwear inplaits, perforations, flowers patchwork, beads, fringes,mirrors, sequins and incrustations.The romantic wave also seduces little Lolitas with arange of tender colours: white tinted whites and delicatepastels. The hope chest spirit, broderie anglaise, floralpatterns, fresh stripes, embossed effects, and pleats forMary Janes, sneakers, sandals, tennis shoes with simplyirresistible charm.And for midsummer, a decidedly gay, optimistic mood.Decorated sneakers, ballerinas, sandals and quirkybeach sandals copy grown-up styles and play aroundwith iridescent and coloured translucent materials,plastic inclusions, and kitsch details: frills, ribbons, andscreen prints to seduce the mini pin-ups.

BrandsIn the EU market for footwear, manufacturers’ brandsare important for the high-fashion, classical, health andsports sectors. These shoes come mainly from Europeanmanufacturers with the exception of sports footwear.Retail chains and importers use fantasy labels andbrands to distinguish their collections from those ofcompetitors and also to target particular segments e.g.clothing brands are increasingly used as distinguishingpromotional features (with agreement/royalty paymentto the brand name owner). Brand names are of littleimportance for cheap gym shoes, slippers and othertextile and plastic shoes. One sector, that of specialistsport shoes, is dominated by well promoted brands.These sport shoes are frequently promoted alongsidefashion clothing ranges for individual sports. Examples of these labels are: Adidas, Nike, Reebok,Puma and Lotto. The main source of production forthese sport shoes is the Far East.

4.1 Footwear production in the EU

EU

Footwear production in the EU decreased from 1,081 million pairs in 1997 to 910 million in 2000,sank for the first time below the one billion pair level in1999 and continued its fall with 5 percent in 2000 as itrelocated to other, and especially former Eastern bloc,countries. Preliminary EU production figures for 2001indicate a further decrease of 2.1 percent to 889,000pairs. Italy remained EU’s leading footwear producer withalmost 43 percent of total EU production, followed bySpain (22%). Other major producers are Portugal (12%)and France (11%). Around 280,000 employees workedin the EU footwear industry in 2000, while this numberwas still 325,000 in 1995. The footwear industry isrelatively labour-intensive, added to which increasingcosts and the competition of cheap imports havepressed manufacturers to specialise in niches (luxury,safety or orthopaedic footwear) or to shift production toabroad via the outward processing route (OPT).The footwear manufacturing industry in two countries,Italy and The Netherlands showed (limited) positivedevelopments, but at the other end of the scale,significant reductions had been recorded by many otherEU producers. For example, UK footwear productionplummeted nearly 46 percent, Belgium 25%,France 13%, Germany 9% and Spain 4%.

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There are large differences between the member statesin production regarding number of output as well astype of product. Many footwear manufacturers in theEU are now importing uppers and to a lesser degreeouter soles and other parts for final assembly in theirproducts. EU imports (from outside the Union) of partsof footwear amounted to US$ 1,426 million, of which85 percent uppers. Romania is the main supplier ofuppers followed by India (for many years leadingsupplier and passed by Romania in 1999), Tunisia andHungary. Almost all sports and sports leisure shoes continue tobe made in the Far East (almost 80% of the globalproduction!) and Eastern Europe, including productionfor the major international manufacturers such as Nike,Reebok, Adidas, Fila, Hi-Tec and Puma.Europe accounts for 20 percent of the world’sproduction of leather uppers, for an important partfashion and quality production coming mainly fromItaly, Portugal and Spain.

Germany

German production of footwear has been on the declinefor many years, as imports from low labour costcountries have increased. HDS, Germany’s footwearindustry association, has released figures for 2001showing a 9.6 percent increase in exports to DM 1.67billion (US$ 785 million). In terms of production, thegood growth in exports counteracted the weakness in

4 PRODUCTION

Table 4.1 Production of footwear by EU member states 1997-2000 (in million pairs)

1997 1998 1999 2000 % change % change1997/2000 1999/2000

Italy 460.0 425.0 380.9 390.8 - 15 + 3Spain 207.5 220.9 212.9 203.6 - 2 - 4Portugal 103.0 105.6 107.6 106.7 + 4 - 1France 135.4 125.5 114.6 99.7 - 26 - 13Germany 40.4 41.5 39.8 35.8 - 11 - 9UK 88.9 82.8 62.9 34.1 - 62 - 46Austria 11.9 10.6 10.7 10.2 - 14 - 5Denmark 10.2 10.5 10.2 9.9 - 3 - 3Greece 11.5 10.0 9.5 9.4 - 18 - 1The Netherlands 5.6 3.6 3.8 4.1 - 27 + 8Finland 3.7 3.9 3.7 3.5 - 5 - 5Ireland 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0 0Sweden 1.0 0.9 1.0 1.0 0 0Belgium/Luxembourg 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.5 - 44 - 25Total EU 1081.0 1042.6 959.3 910.3 - 16 - 5

Source: CEC

the domestic market where sales fell 2.7 percent to DM 4.28 billion (US$ 2.0 billion).

Salamander is the biggest shoe manufacturer in Europe(€ 1.29 billion in 2001) and includes besides the brandSalamander: Lurchi, Yellowmiles, Sioux, Betty Barclayand Apollo. The Salamander Group also has a retaildivision with 115 shops in Germany, as well as abroad(Austria, France and East European countries)Many German manufacturers are doing well in the so-called “health and comfort” sector, of whichBirkenstock and Ganter are well-known with importantexports to respectively the USA and Japan. Imports of footwear parts (uppers and soles) for finalassembly in Germany increased from US$ 316 millionin 1999 to 360 million in 2000, coming mainly fromPortugal, Italy, India and Hungary.

The Netherlands

Footwear production in The Netherlands accounted foralmost 6 percent of the domestic market in 2000. The number of footwear manufacturers in theNetherlands has declined too and numbers only 20 companies (with more than 20 employees) with anannual output of 4 million pairs, including productionabroad. The leading companies like Van Lier,Van Bommel, Greve, Berkelmans, Avang and Durea arespecialised in the more expensive footwear.

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Table 4.2 Overview of German footwear industry, 1998-2001

1998 1999 2000 2001

Plants (average number) 161 151 138 133Employees (average number) 18,577 17,766 16,964 16,457Volume of output (’000 pairs) 41,500 39,840 35,820 33,884Value of output (DM bn) 6.56 6.30 5.95 5.92Domestic sales (DM bn) 4.92 4.73 4.40 4.28Foreign sales (DM bn) 1.64 1.57 1.52 1.67

Source: HDS

Italy

Italy plays a major role in global footwear production,in spite of high costs of labour and is concentrated onquality, well designed footwear in leather. Italy isEurope’s largest producer of footwear (ahead of Spain,France and Portugal) and fifth largest on a global scale.However, Italian footwear production decreased from460 million pairs in 1997 to 375 million in 2001. Italian footwear manufacturers ended with a turnover of€ 8.3 billion (US$ 7.6 bn) in 2000, 11 percent morethan 1999, with 390 million pairs produced (up 2.4%).In 2001, production fell again just like in the period1997-1999. This period showed falls of respectively 8 and 10 percent, while production figures in 2001reached 375.2 million pairs (3.8 percent less than 2000)at a value of € 8,670 million (+4.8%). This downturnreflects a deterioration in export sales in the face ofintense competition, especially from low-cost countriesand higher imports, which have made it increasinglydifficult for Italian producers to retain their shares ofthe home market. Export figures showed negative signscompared to the previous year with 353.7 million pairs(- 2.4%) at a value of € 7.231 million (equal to anincrease of 9.5 percent). The average price of exportedfootwear (€ 20.44 per pair) has increased by 12.1 percent. The quantity of goods manufactured andexported has dropped considerably whilst this trend hasnot affected the total value and average prices;

Table 4.3 Overview of the footwear industry in The Netherlands, 1997-2000

1997 1998 1999 2000

Plants (average number) 238 206 195 191Employees (average number) 1,814 1,734 1,688 1,650Volume of output (’000 pairs) 5,550 3,650 3,800 3,925Value of output (€ mln) 110 113 114 120Domestic sales (€ mln) 77 77 78 80Foreign sales (€ mln) 33 36 36 40

Source: CBS

the overall Italian offer reached a higher bracket witheach product sector being positioned on a higher level,although to different degrees.

The Italian footwear industry is very fragmented. The number of companies amounted to 7,500 in 2000.Footwear producers employ an average of about 15 persons. In 2001, leather accounted for 86 percent oftotal production value and 70 percent of the totalvolume of 375 million pairs. All the main types offootwear suffered falls in output. In particular,production of sports footwear and textiles uppers fell.

Many companies are now importing uppers and solesfor final assembly in Italy. In 1995 imports of theseamounted to US$ 404 million, while they increased to652 million in 1999 and to 740 million in 2000.Romania is the main supplier of uppers and soles withan import share of 37 percent (in terms of value), at adistance followed by Tunisia, Albania, India, Bulgariaand Hungary.

France

France is the fourth leading shoe manufacturer in theEU. It ranked third for many years but was passed byPortugal in 2000. French production decreased 20 percent in the period 1998-2000 to less than 100 million pairs in 2000 with a value of FF 11.8 bn. The ten leading companies are Eram, Bacou, Bata,Mephisto, Pindière, Lafuma, Aigle, Jalatte, Allemand

23

Industries and Polygone. Eram is not only the leadingmanufacturer but also the leading retailer in France.Bacou and Jalatte are manufacturers of safety footwear,besides other safety products. Bata is active in around70 countries as a manufacturing, wholesaling andretailing organisation. Mephisto is specialised inwalking shoes and an estimated 85 percent of itsturnover is covered by exports. The other companies areall active in fashionable footwear, of which AllemandIndustries is the leading children’s footwearmanufacturer.Just like manufacturers in Italy, French companiesimported an increasing degree of uppers and soles for(final) assembly. In 1995 these imports amounted toUS$ 140 million and even 213 million in 2000, comingmainly from Tunisia (27%) and Morocco (18%),followed by Italy, Spain and India..

Leading categories in French footwear production in2000 were footwear with leather uppers (47 millionpairs or 47 percent of total production) and footwearwith uppers of textiles (36 million pairs or 36 percent).The remaining 17 percent included footwear withrubber or plastic uppers. In terms of value, the leadingproduct group was footwear with leather uppers (67% of total production). The trend to move production to foreign sites is likelyto continue as a cost-saving measure. The sluggishnessof the home market and the intense competition fromthe low-wage countries has led French manufacturers to

Table 4.4 Overview of Italian footwear industry, 1997-2001

1997 1998 1999 2000 2001

Plants (average number) 8,880 8,510 7,660 7,570 7,500Employees (average number) 120,500 119,060 114,015 111,650 113,100Production (in mln pairs) 460.0 425.0 380.9 389.9 375.2Value of output (€ million) 8,052 7,907 7,417 8,269 8,670Domestic sales (€ mln) 2,128 2,064 1,915 1,663 1,439Foreign sales (€ mln) 5,924 5,843 5,502 6,606 7,231

Source: ANCI

Table 4.5 Overview of French footwear industry, 1997-2000

1997 1998 1999 2000

Plants (average number) 238 226 212 191Employees (average number) 26,300 24,800 23,300 20,800Volume of output (million pairs) 135.4 125.5 114.6 99.7Value of output (FFr.mln) 14,000 13,800 13,200 11,800Foreign sales (FFr.mln) 5,220 5,470 5,780 5,140

Source: CNC

react in order to survive. A number of companies hascreated brands along with a selective distribution orspecialised in specific products, such as children’sfootwear. Other strategies consist of moving intospecialised niches like safety wear, hiking and mountainboots.

UK

For a number of years, the UK was the fifth largestproducer of footwear in the EU. Germany passed theUK in terms of volume in 2000, after a fall of 46 percent in UK output. In 2001 around 12,000 peoplewere employed in completed footwear manufacturing,with perhaps a further 5,000 in supplier and alliedtrades.UK production of footwear has been in decline formany years (103 million pairs in 1995 and 34 million in2000) as imports from low labour cost countries haveincreased. The closure of UK’s largest retail chain, BSC(British Shoe Corporation) a subsidiary of the SearsGroup in 1999, resulted in heavily discounted sales oflarge quantities of stock by retailers. The severe pricecompetition has put pressure on manufacturers, whichhave responded by closing some or all UK factories andsourcing overseas to retain market share. However, thisaction has tended to lower footwear prices further.C&J Clark International Ltd is the UK’s top-ranked

24

shoe company in terms of sales. The companycontinues to introduce new ranges, while at the sametime refining classics. R Griggs & Company Ltd, whichmanufactures the Dr Martens shoe range, is the secondmost successful shoe company. Other manufacturers areChurch & Co, Start Rite, Pentland-Group, Peter Black,Lambert Howarth etc. Clarks and Church are significant retailers as well asmanufacturers.

Imports of uppers and soles for final assembly into theUK increased strongly until 1998. In 1999 the importsof uppers more or less stabilised at US$193 million,whereas ten years ago this was only US$ 45 million. In 2000, these imports decreased to US$ 177 million,caused by the considerable fall in domestic production.The main suppliers of uppers and soles were India(31% of total imports), Thailand (24%), China (18%)and Brazil (6%) in 2000.

4.2 EU Outward Processing TradeThe restructuring policy of many manufacturingcompanies in the EU has also involved the outsourcingof more labour intensive operations in area inside theEU (Portugal, Ireland, Spain and Greece) and outsidethe EU, like Central and East European countries(CEECs), Mediterranean countries and Asian countries.

Table 4.6 Overview of UK’s footwear industry, 1997-2001

1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 est

Plants (average number) 741 676 670 535 530Employees (average number) 22,980 21,300 20,700 17,500 17,000Production (in ’000 pairs) 88,900 82,800 62,900 34,100 33,800Value of output (£ bn) 1,233 1,068 1,015 608 584Foreign sales (£ bn) 422 382 380 233 230

Source: British Footwear Association

Table 4.7 EU developments in OPT of footwear in total and by trade partners, 2000

2000 US$ mln Leading trade partners in 2000

EU 556 Romania (41%), Hungary (13%), Albania (12%), Croatia (5%) of which:Italy 386 Romania (54%), Albania (17%), Serbia Montenegro (5%), Croatia (4%) Germany 83 Hungary (58%), Czech Rep. (28%), Croatia (10%), Moldova (6%)Denmark 19 Poland (72%), Hungary (9%), Lithuania (8%)France 18 Tunisia (26%), Morocco (24%), Slovakia (23%), Croatia (9%) UK 12 India (77%), Thailand (17%)Other EU countries 38 Romania (43%), India (18%), Hong Kong (9%), Slovakia (8%)

Source: Eurostat

This policy, outward processing trade (OPT), gives EUmanufacturers the possibility to maintain control overthe management and quality of the outsourcingoperations and to respond quickly to changing marketdemands.EU OPT for footwear increased steadily in the period1990-1998 from US$ 308 to 604 million, followed by asmall decrease of less than 2 percent in 1999 and astrong decrease of 16 percent in 2000.

Almost 90 percent of total OPT value came fromCEECs. The most important OPT country outsideEurope was India (2.4%), followed by theMediterranean countries Morocco (0.9%) and Tunisia(0.9%). OPT with India decreased from US$ 26.7million in 1998 to 12.7 million in 2000. OPT withTunisia almost halved in one year: from US$ 9.5million in 1999 to 4.8 million in 2000, while importsfrom Morocco stabilised at US$ 5.0 million.

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5.1 Total importsBefore we take a look at the import figures for footwearinto the EU, it should be noted that all data presented inthis chapter are official trade figures provided byEurostat. We therefore refer to the remarks in chapter 1,explaining that official statistics are not always all-embracing and should be interpreted with care. It should also be noted that the statistics do not takeinto account the considerable volume of fraudulentimports of Chinese products via other countries. Anti-fraud investigations, among others by theEuropean Anti Fraud Office (OLAF ), on this issue forinstance in verifying certificates of origin, learned thatlarge volumes of shoes originating in China weredeclared as originating in certain countries of theMiddle and Far East.Control on trade policy measures and other instrumentsagainst fraud are discussed in chapter 1.2 of the EUStrategic Marketing Guide.

EU

Total EU (15) imports of footwear amounted to US$ 17.9 billion (€ 19.43 bn) in 2000. Germanyremained the leading importer, with an import share of22 percent in terms of value, followed by UK (17%),France (15%), Italy (13%) and The Netherlands (8 %).Belgium (6%) ranked sixth, followed by Austria (4%).

26

EU imports of footwear decreased by 4.4 percent in theperiod 1999-2000. EU countries can be divided, as todevelopments in value of imports during this period,into:• Very strongly decreased imports (more than 10%)

in Portugal, Finland, Germany and Belgium;• Strongly falling imports (between 5-10 %) in UK

and Austria; • Slowly falling imports (less than 5%) in Sweden and

Greece;• Slowly growing imports (less than 5%) in Italy,

France, The Netherlands, Denmark and Ireland;• Booming imports (more than 10%) in Spain.

Developments in imports of footwear vary strongly perEU country. This depends on several factors like sizeand structure of domestic production of footwear,the possibilities and size of re-exports anddevelopments in demand as described in chapter 3.1.

The growth in Spanish imports covered for animportant part leather shoes and special sports footwear.International brands came from other EU countries(mainly Belgium, Portugal, Italy and The Netherlands)while lower priced products came from developingcountries (mainly Vietnam, China and Morocco).Spanish production satisfies the demand for mediumand medium-high articles.

5 IMPORTS

0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000

Germany

UK

France

Italy

Netherlands

Belgium/Lux.

Austria

Spain

Denmark

Sweden

Portugal

Ireland

Greece

Finland

US$ million

2000

1998

1996

Figure 5.1 EU import of footwear by member states, 1996-2000

The fall in Portuguese imports was mainly caused bythe product group parts of footwear, of which importsfell from US$ 153 million in 1999 to 116 million in2000.

About 52 percent of the total value of EU imports camefrom other EU countries in 2000, mainly from Italy(17% of total EU imports and 32% of intra-EUimports). Other major suppliers to the EU market werePortugal (7%), Belgium (6%) and Spain (6%), followedby The Netherlands (5%). The total import share ofother EU countries decreased, this percentage being11.8 percent in 2000 and 12.5 percent in1998. Importsfrom the leading EU supplier Italy decreased by 20.9 percent in the period 1998-2000 to just under US$ 3 billion in 2000, while imports from Portugaldecreased 16.6 percent and imports from Spain 18.4 percent in the same period. This means thatPortugal ranked fourth (in terms of value) under Chinaand runner-up Vietnam. Imports from Belgium and The Netherlands increased respectively 2.1 and 28.5 percent in the period 1998-2000.

EU imports from developing countries increased interms of volume (+ 19%) and value (+ 11%) againstlower prices (- 6%). Developing countries gain from thedecreased intra-EU imports, just like other countriesfrom outside the EU: CEECs (mainly Romania) andAsian countries (mainly Taiwan). Italy remained the leading supplier to the EU market inthe category outdoor footwear with uppers of leatherwith 141 million pairs in 2000, above Portugal (61 million pairs). Vietnamn (55 mln pairs) passedSpain (44 mln pairs) in 2000, these countries ranked

27

3rd and 4th in 2000 before China. China remained theEU’s leading supplier in the product groups plastic/orrubber footwear for sports (39%) and outdoor (27%),while Vietnam in the latter category accounted for 20 percent of total imports. Sports footwear with uppersof textiles came mainly from China (26%), Belgiumand Vietnam (each country 14%), indoor footwear withuppers of textiles from China (26%) and Spain (22%)and outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles fromVietnam (25%) and China (19%). A more detailed overview of EU import sources isgiven in appendix 2.2, while the role of developingcountries will be discussed in chapter 5.3.

Table 5.1 Developments in EU imports of footwear by member states in terms of value, 1997-2000

1997 1998 1999 2000 % change % changeUS$ mln US$ mln US$ mln US$ mln 1997-2000 1999-2000

Germany 4,776 4,580 4,503 4,002 - 16.2% - 11.1%UK 3,141 3,143 3,326 3,005 - 4.3% - 9.7%France 2,778 2,802 2,711 2,763 - 0.5% + 1.9%Italy 2,174 2,177 2,298 2,395 + 10.2% + 4.2%Netherlands 1,150 1,201 1,337 1,360 + 18.3% + 1.7%Belgium/Lux. 1,296 1,117 1,266 1,139 - 12.1% - 10.0%Austria 824 808 824 761 - 7.6% - 7.6%Spain 441 615 556 638 + 44.7% + 14.7%Denmark 466 477 431 437 - 6.2% + 1.4%Sweden 415 416 393 385 - 7.2% - 2.0%Portugal 317 341 353 300 - 5.4% - 15.0%Greece 291 280 257 253 - 13.1% - 1.6%Ireland 254 259 252 260 + 2.4% + 3.2%Finland 196 188 179 157 - 19.9% - 12.3%EU (15) 18,519 18,404 18,686 17,855 - 3.6% - 4.4%

Source: derived from Eurostat

Total imports by selected markets within the EU

Germany

Germany is the largest EU importer of footwear andaccounted for 22 percent in terms of value in 2000.However, this percentage was just above 30 percent in1995. Germany imported footwear at a value of US$ 4.0 billion (€ 4.3 bn) in 2000, of which 44 percentwas sourced outside the EU. Of the total footwearimports, 31 percent came from developing countries. Between 1998 and 2000, German imports decreased by12.6 percent in terms of value and increased 3.6 percentin terms of volume. The general trend in German imports of footwear in theperiod under review was growing imports in volumeagainst much lower prices: imports fell 12.6 percent invalue and grew 3.7 percent in volume, which indicates15.7 percent lower prices. In 1999 imports grew interms of volume (+ 6.1%) but fell 2.3 percent in 2000. The period 1998-2000 showed a decreasing importshare from other EU countries to 46 percent in volumeand 56 percent in value of total German imports in2000, while these percentages were respectively 52 and61 in 1998. This was caused by decreased imports fromItaly, Spain Austria, France and the UK, in favour of

28

Asian developing countries like Vietnam, Cambodia,Malaysia and Macao and to a much smaller degreeCEECs, like Romania, Ukraine, Poland and Hungary.

Italy retained its leading position as leading supplier tothe German market in terms of volume, despite a slightfall (- 1.5%) in 1999 and a strong fall of 11 percent in2000. Imports from Vietnam rose from 34.6 millionpairs in 1998 to 53.2 mln in 2000, while imports fromChina (ranked 2nd in 1998 and 3rd in 1999 and 2000)fell from 46.0 mln in 1998 to 44.3 in 2000. Importsfrom EU countries varied considerably: imports fromPortugal (4th) increased slightly and from The Netherlands(5th) strongly (14.8 million pairs in1998 and 20.4 mln in 2000), while imports from Spain(7th) and France (12th) decreased in the period 1998-2000, respectively 25% to 19.6 mln and 33 percent to 7.1 mln pairs. China was the leading supplier to the German market insports footwear and indoor footwear with textile uppersin 2000. Italy was the leading supplier of Germany in theproduct groups waterproof outdoor, indoor footwearwith plastic uppers, indoor and outdoor footwear withleather uppers and indoor footwear with textile uppers.

Table 5.2 Imports of footwear into the EU by area of origin, in terms of volume and average import prices, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000 % change % changemln Average mln Average mln Average 1998-2000 1998-2000

pairs price pairs price pairs price in volume in price in US$ in US$ in US$

Total 1,473 12.49 1,582 11.81 1,627 10.97 + 10.5% - 12.2%of which from:Other EU countries 651 18.20 665 15.56 660 14.17 + 1.4% - 22.1%Developing countries 661 8.43 731 8.05 785 7.90 + 18.8% - 6.3%Total other countries 161 13.99 186 13.21 182 12.55 + 13.0% - 10.3%

Source: Eurostat

Table 5.3 Imports of total footwear into Germany by area of origin, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000mln Average mln Average mln Average % change % change

pairs price pairs price pairs price in volume in pricein US$ in US$ in US$ 1998-2000 1998-2000

Total 338.1 13.55 358.8 12.55 350.5 11.42 + 3.7% - 15.7%of which from:Other EU countries 175.5 15.97 175.1 15.20 162.3 14.70 - 7.5% - 8.0%Developing countries 122.1 9.78 139.9 8.81 146.6 8.49 + 20.1% - 13.2%Other countries 40.5 14.38 43.8 13.69 41.6 14.82 + 2.7% + 3.1%

Source: Eurostat

United Kingdom

The UK is the second largest EU importer in terms ofvalue and accounted for almost 17 percent of the EUtotal imports of footwear in 2000. Imports of footwearamounted to US$ 3.0 billion (€ 3.3 bn) in 2000. British importers sourced around 50 percent offootwear in non-EU countries (in 1999 this percentagewas 43%). UK imports fell in the period 1997-2000 by4.3 percent, which was somewhat higher than the EUaverage of 3.6 percent. Of the total imports, almost 46 percent came from developing countries.

In 2000, China and Vietnam passed Italy as leadingsuppliers to the UK market in terms of volume. China ranked 2nd and Vietnam 3rd in 1998 and 1999.Spain (4th) and Portugal (5th) retained their positions

29

despite a considerable fall in exports to the UK in 2000. Italy retained its position as leading supplier to the UKmarket in terms of value, despite a fall of 8 percent in2000 to US$ 532 million. Other main EU suppliers tothe UK were Portugal, Spain, Belgium and The Netherlands. Imports from Spain and The Netherlands increased while imports from Belgiumand Portugal decreased in 2000. Imports from the majorAsian suppliers (China, Vietnam, India and Indonesia)increased considerably in the period under review.

Italy was the leading supplier to the UK market inoutdoor footwear with uppers of leather in 2000. China was the leading supplier to the UK in sportsfootwear and indoor footwear with textile uppers andsports and outdoor plastic or rubber footwear.

Table 5. 4 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to Germany for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)

2000 Five leading suppliers in 2000:

Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets)– waterproof outdoor 7,296 Italy (48), China (35), Czech Rep. (6), Netherlands (4), France (2).– sports 3,819 Italy (31), China (22), Netherlands (9), Belgium (9), Vietnam (8).– indoor 3,219 Italy (45), Poland (11). Netherlands (7), Spain (6), Austria (6). – other outdoor 77,926 Vietnam (28), China (20), Italy (18), Netherlands (7), Cambodia (3).Footwear with leather uppers:– sports 4,799 Slovakia (22), Vietnam (16), China (16), Italy (14), Indonesia (7).– indoor 3,955 Italy (23), Portugal (16), Spain (12), Moldova (11), Austria (8).– outdoor, outer soles of leather 10,545 Italy (52), Spain (12), Vietnam (8), Portugal (4), India (4).– outdoor, other outer soles 148,838 Italy (21), Vietnam (11), Portugal (10), Spain (7), Hungary (5).Footwear with textile uppers:– sports 13,342 China (38), Vietnam (18), Belgium (9), Indonesia (8), Netherlands (7).– indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 17,454 Italy (15), Spain (14), France (13), Portugal (13), Turkey (9).– indoor, other outer soles 11,499 China (62), Poland (16), Netherlands (15), Belgium (2), Italy (1).– outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 30,590 Vietnam (31), Italy (16), Netherlands (7), China (7), Cambodia (5). Other 17,238Total imports of footwear 350,520 Italy (21), Vietnam (15), China (13), Portugal (6), The Netherlands (6).

Source: Eurostat

Table 5.5 Imports of total footwear into UK by area of origin, 1998-2000



Total 262.5 11.97 292.2 11.38 276.0 10.89 + 5.1% - 9.0%of which from:Other EU countries 123.1 15.08 135.3 13.97 101.4 14.75 - 17.6% - 2.2%Developing countries 127.2 9.05 142.7 8.81 162.0 8.45 + 27.4% - 6.6%Other countries 12.2 11.07 14.2 10.76 12.6 10.76 + 3.3% - 2.8%

Source: Eurostat

Spain retained its leading position in some indoorfootwear sectors. Vietnam became the leading supplierof sports footwear with leather uppers in 2000 andpassed many countries including China.

France

France accounted for 15 percent of EU imports offootwear in 2000. Around 52 percent in volume and 33 percent in value of French imports was sourcedoutside the EU, while 47 percent in volumerepresenting 28 percent in value came from developingcountries.French imports of footwear fell by 1.4 percent in valueterms between 1998 and 2000, despite a small growthof 1.9 percent in 2000. In 2000, most French imports of footwear (in terms ofvalue) came from the other EU members: Italy (23%),

30

Spain (11%), Belgium (10%), Portugal (9%) and The Netherlands (8%). The leading non-EU supplierswere Vietnam (7%) and China (6%). Other suppliers toFrance were Tunisia (3%), Germany (3%), Morocco(3%), Romania (2%), UK (2%) and Indonesia (2%). Imports from Italy decreased in the period 1997-1999but grew by 4 percent to US$ 622 million in 2000.Imports from the other EU countries increased too withthe exception of Portugal. Imports from all mentioneddeveloping countries increased. Other developingcountries with booming exports to France wereCambodia (US$ 1.6 million in 1998 and 14.4 million in2000!) and, with somewhat less growth, Slovakia,Bangladesh and Macao.

In 1999, China passed Italy as leading supplier to theFrench market in terms of volume. In 2000, China

Table 5. 6 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to UK for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)


Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets)– waterproof outdoor 1,900 Italy ( 31), China (29), France (10), Lithuania (7), Romania (4).– sports 6,604 China (34), Ireland (14), Indonesia (13), Vietnam (11), Italy (10). – indoor 1,534 Spain (25), China (21), Vietnam (16), Belgium (8), Malaysia (5).– other outdoor 50,294 China (34), Vietnam (26), Indonesia (9), Italy (7), Taiwan (5).Footwear with leather uppers:– sports 6,543 Vietnam (17), Italy (15), Indonesia (14), China (12), USA (8).– outdoor, outer soles of leather 18,636 Italy (39), Portugal (24), India (10), Spain (7), Netherlands (5).– outdoor, other outer soles 96,113 Italy (17), Portugal (12), Vietnam (11), India (9), China (9).Footwear with textile uppers:– sports 16,757 China (31), Vietnam (17), Indonesia (12), Belgium (10), Pakistan (7). – indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 19,092 Spain (40), China (30), Vietnam (11), Sri Lanka (6), USA (4).– indoor, other outer soles 17,289 China (84), Vietnam (4),Sri Lanka (3), Hong Kong (2), Spain (1).– outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 19,258 Vietnam (44), Spain (12), Italy (9), China (5), India (4).Other 22,014Total imports of footwear 276,034 China (22), Vietnam (15), Italy (14), Spain (8), Portugal (7).

Source: Eurostat

Table 5.7 Imports of total footwear into France by area of origin, 1998-2000



Total 252.1 11.11 253.9 10.67 278.7 9.91 + 10.6% - 10.8%of which from:Other EU countries 127.6 15.30 122.2 14.88 133.9 13.74 + 4.9% - 10.2%Developing countries 113.1 6.20 118.0 6.24 131.0 5.93 + 15.8% - 4.4%Other countries 11.4 13.02 13.7 11.17 13.8 10.61 + 21.1% - 18.5%

Source: Eurostat

improved its position as leading supplier to the Frenchmarket in terms of volume. Imports from China rosefrom 51.7 million pairs in 1999 to 55.7 in 2000, whileimports from Italy fell from 45.9 million in 1999 to44.1 in 2000. Vietnam retained its position and ranked3rd during the whole period 1998-2000, followed bySpain, Belgium, The Netherlands and Portugal.

Italy, Spain and Portugal were leading suppliers to theFrench market in the category outdoor footwear withuppers of leather in 2000. China was the leading supplier to France in the productgroups plastic or rubber outdoor footwear and indoorfootwear with textile uppers. Sports footwear withupper of textiles came mainly from Belgium and Chinaand outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles fromVietnam.

31

Table 5. 8 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to France for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)


Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets)– waterproof outdoor 3,730 Italy (45), Slovakia (14), China (13), Morocco (8), Netherlands (4). – sports 5,263 Romania (25), China (23), Italy (23), Belgium (8), Indonesia (4).– other outdoor 52,762 China (21), Vietnam (21), Italy (14), Belgium (10), Netherlands (6).Footwear with leather uppers– sports 3,963 Italy (23), Spain (19), Belgium (15), Netherlands (11), UK (9).– outdoor, outer soles of leather 14,889 Italy (36), Spain (25), Portugal (19), Bulgaria (5), Morocco (3).– outdoor, other outer soles 77,066 Italy (22), Portugal (14), Spain (11), Netherlands (9), Vietnam (9).Footwear with textile uppers– sports 18,362 Belgium (22), China (20), Netherlands (15), Vietnam (8), Italy (7).– indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 26,428 China (39), Spain (18), Vietnam (10), Morocco (5), Czech Rep. (5).– indoor, other outer soles 21,311 China (83), Belgium (5), Netherlands (4), Italy (3), Germany (2).– outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 37,387 Vietnam (28), China (13), Italy (11), Belgium (7), Spain (6).Other 17,581Total imports of footwear 278,742 China (20), Italy (16), Vietnam (12), Spain (9), Belgium (8).

Source: Eurostat

Italy

In 2000, Italy imported footwear for US$ 2,395 million(€ 2,598 mln) of which 77 percent was sourced outsidethe EU, 39 percent from developing countries and 38 percent from other countries.Besides The Netherlands and France, Italy increased itsimports of footwear among the major EU countries. Imports rose in terms of volume by 5.5 percent, and by4.2 percent in terms of value in 2000, after a muchbigger growth of respectively 11.9 and 5.6 percent in1999. Romania (25%) was the leading supplier of footwear(in value) to Italy in 2000, of which 55 percentconcerned OPT. Other suppliers to Italy includedBelgium (8%), China (8%),Tunisia (6%), Vietnam(5%), Bulgaria (4%) and several countries with a shareof around 3 percent, such as The Netherlands, Albania,Spain, India and France.

Table 5.9 Imports of total footwear into Italy by area of origin, 1998-2000



Total 168.2 12.94 188.2 12.21 198.5 12.06 + 18.0% - 6.8%of which from:Other EU countries 25.7 19.09 31.2 18.84 29.2 18.66 + 13.6% - 2.3%Developing countries 97.4 8.98 106.0 8.21 111.4 8.32 + 14.4% - 7.3%Other countries 45.1 17.99 51.0 16.66 57.9 15.94 + 28.4% - 11.4%

Source: Eurostat

China retained its leading position as leading supplierto the Italian market in terms of volume. Imports from China rose from 43.7 million pairs in1998 to 54.2 mln in 2000, while imports from Romania(ranked 2nd during the period under review) grew from26.7 mln in 1998 to 38.5 in 2000. Belgium ranked 4th

after Vietnam, followed by Tunisia, Indonesia,Thailand, Spain and Bulgaria. Imports from Belgium,

32

Indonesia, Thailand and Spain decreased in 2000, whileimports from Vietnam, Tunisia and Bulgaria increased. China was the leading supplier to the Italian market inseveral types of footwear, except waterproof outdoorand footwear with leather uppers. Vietnam became thenew leading supplier of sports footwear with leatheruppers and passed China, while the leading position inthe other product groups was taken by Romania.

Table 5.10 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to Italy for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)


Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets)– waterproof outdoor 2,852 Romania (41), China (30), Serb. Monten. (9), Czech R. (4), France (4).– sports 9,219 China (54), Vietnam (6), Belgium (6), Hungary (5), Bosnia/H. (5).– other outdoor 30,838 China (28), Thailand (17), Indonesia (11), Vietnam (11), Belgium (6).Footwear with leather uppers– sports 5,152 Vietnam (20), China (18), Indonesia (9), Germany (7), Romania (6). – outdoor, outer soles of leather 7,112 Romania (32), Spain (9), Serb. Monten. (9), Tunisia (8), India (6). – outdoor, other outer soles 54,408 Romania (37), Vietnam (6), Belgium (5), Bosnia Herz. (4), Bulgaria (4).Footwear with textile uppers– sports 18,556 China (25), Belgium (20), Vietnam (18), Netherlands (7), Indonesia (6).– indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 7,901 China (45), Spain (19), Vietnam (8), Bulgaria (8), Poland (5).– indoor, other outer soles 18,926 China (83), Romania (6), France (4), Tunisia (1), Ukraine (1).– outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 22,983 China (38), Romania (20), Vietnam (13), Spain (5), Indonesia (3).Other 20,579Total imports of footwear 198,526 China (27), Romania (19), Vietnam (8), Belgium (5), Bosnia/Herz. (2).

Source: Eurostat

The Netherlands

The Netherlands ranked fifth as EU importer offootwear with an import value of US$ 1,360 million (€ 1,475 mln), of which 55 percent came from non-EUsources and 39 percent from developing countries.Between 1998 and 2000, Netherlands imports increasedby 13.3 percent in terms of value and volume. China became Netherlands’ leading supplier in terms of

value. Chinese imports rose from US$ 129 million in1998 to 213 million in 2000 and reached an importshare of 15.6 percent, followed by Belgium (13%),Italy (11%), Vietnam (9%), Germany (7%), Hong Kong(6%), Portugal (6%) and Indonesia (4%).

China improved its leading position as the leadingsupplier to the Netherlands market in terms of volume.

Table 5.11 Imports of total footwear into The Netherlands by area of origin, 1998-2000



Total 115.1 10.43 134.0 9.98 130.4 10.43 + 13.3% = of which from:Other EU countries 31.3 17.53 37.1 15.17 36.3 16.80 + 16.0% - 4.2%Developing countries 57.3 6.56 67.3 6.33 74.1 7.21 + 29.3% + 9.9%Other countries 26.5 10.41 29.6 11.32 20.0 10.81 - 24.5% + 3.8%

Source: Eurostat

Imports from China rose from 30.1 million pairs in1998 to 37.3 mln in 2000, while imports from Italy(ranked 2nd in 1998 and 3rd in 1999 and 2000) fell from10.7 mln in 1998 to 10.2 in 2000. Vietnam retained its position and ranked 2nd since 1999.Imports from Vietnam increased considerably (almost11% in 2000), while imports from Hong Kong fellalmost 57 percent and became the 5th supplier to TheNetherlands after Belgium and before Portugal.

Hong Kong was the leading suppliers to theNetherlands market in all kinds of sports footwear andin the category outdoor footwear with uppers of leatherin 1999. China took over these positions in 2000,while several other countries passed Hong Kong, too. China remained the leading supplier to The Netherlandsin the product groups plastic or rubber outdoorfootwear and indoor footwear with textile uppers andbecame the leading supplier of other sports footwear,outdoor footwear with leather uppers. Outdoor footwearwith uppers of textiles came mainly from China andVietnam.

5.2 Imports by product groupAccording to the official import statistics, footwear canbe classified:• by type of product (outdoor, indoor, sports or safety

footwear), and/or• by materials used for uppers and outer soles.For some products, mainly outdoor footwear, a moredetailed classification is possible, for instance:• by user, like children (inner sole less than 24 cm.),

men, women or for both sexes, and/or• by type of footwear, like whether or not covering the

ankle, height of the heel etc.

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EU

Five product groups covered almost 90 percent (in value) of total EU imports of footwear (excludingsafety footwear and parts of footwear):• outdoor footwear with uppers of leather • outdoor footwear with uppers and outer soles of

plastic or rubber • outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles sports

footwear with uppers of textiles, including training,tennis and basketball shoes, however this productgroup is not further specified in the available statistics

• sports footwear with uppers of leather

Outdoor footwear remained by far the most importanttype of footwear in EU imports. Imports increased morestrongly in volume than in value, meaning that averageimport prices decreased from US$ 12.03 in 1998, to11.32 in 1999 and 10.55 in 2000. Imports of sportsfootwear increased slightly (1.0%) in volume anddecreased 7.9 percent in value during the whole period1998-2000, while average import prices fell from US$ 14.04 in 1998 to 13.37 in 1999 and to 12.80 in2000, mainly caused by sports footwear with uppers ofleather. Imports of parts of footwear stabilised just above US$ 2 billion for several years but decreased in 2000 tojust under US$ 1.9 billion, of which almost 40 percentwent to Italy.

Leather outdoor footwear EU imports of leather outdoor footwear rose from 575 million pairs in 1998 to 649 million in 2000. These imports of footwear with leather uppersaccounted for 87 percent soles of rubber, plastic orsynthetic leather, for 11 percent leather soles and the

Table 5. 12 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to The Netherlands for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)


Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets)– waterproof outdoor 1,338 Italy (44), Portugal (32), China (7), France (4), Germany (4). – sports 1,632 China (32), Belgium (15), Italy (12), Hong Kong (9), Taiwan (8).– other outdoor 29,833 China (33), Vietnam (17), Taiwan (7), Italy (6), Romania (5).Footwear with leather uppers:– sports 2,362 China (16), Vietnam (16), Germany (13), Taiwan (11), Italy (9) .– outdoor, outer soles of leather 3,095 Italy (42), Portugal (16), Spain (12), Germany (6), India (4).– outdoor, other outer soles 48,385 China (12), Vietnam (11), Italy (10), Portugal (9), Hong Kong (8).Footwear with textile uppers:– sports 9,289 China (35), Belgium (19), Hong Kong (12), Indonesia (10), Vietnam (7).– indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 3,080 Turkey (28), China (25), Belgium (13), Spain (9), France (7).– indoor, other outer soles 9,384 China (91), Belgium (2), Hong Kong (2), Germany (1), Taiwan (1).– outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 15,147 China (31), Vietnam (27), Taiwan (10), Italy (4), UA Emirates (3).Other 6,865Total imports of footwear 130,410 China (29), Vietnam (12), Italy (8), Belgium (6), Hong Kong (5).

Source: Eurostat

remaining 2 percent soles of other materials, like wood,cork etc.About 22 percent of leather outdoor footwear with solesof rubber etc. imports was footwear covering the ankleand 78 percent not covering the ankle; thesepercentages were respectively 18 and 72 percent in1999. Imports of footwear covering the ankle amountedto 117.7 million pairs in 2000, of which 86 percentconcerned a height under the calf. These imports rose in the period 1998-2000 by 12 percent, while averageimport prices fell 35 percent in this period.Imports of footwear covering the ankle, but under thecalf, include for 41 percent children’s footwear,18 percent for men and 30 percent for women,while the remaining 14 percent is for both sexes in2000. These percentages were rather stable in thepreceding years with a much lower import share ofchildren’s footwear (22%) and higher share for men(27%) and women (39% ). Footwear not covering the ankle can be divided intoshoes with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, and othershoes. Around 29 percent of imports of the first-mentioned category includes women’s shoes withheight of heel more than 3 cm. (mainly pumps), anincrease of 7 percent compared with 1998. Imports of

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the latter category increased from almost 297 in 1998 to367 million pairs in 2000, with average import prices ofUS$ 16.45 in 1998 and US$ 14.70 in 2000. Just like other leather footwear, the majority of pumpshas outer soles of synthetic leather (thunit): 86 percentin 1998 and 84 percent in 2000.

Plastic or rubber outdoor footwear EU imports of outdoor footwear with uppers and outersoles of plastic or rubber accounted for 15 percent oftotal outdoor footwear imports in 2000, which comparedwith 1998 was a growth of 14 percent. During thisperiod, the imported volume grew by 22 percent.Average import prices fell from US$ 6.58 in 1998 to6.08 in 2000. Import prices of all products decreased,however, the biggest fall was for rubber boots. Imports of all types of rubber/plastic footwear increasedwith the exception of footwear not covering the anklewith uppers of plastic, which fell from 27.4 millionpairs in 1998 to 23.0 million in 2000. The mostimportant growth was shown footwear not covering theankle with vamp of straps or pieces cut out and a heelheight of 3 cm or less, namely from 40.7 million pairsin 1998 to 60.3 million pairs in 2000. This wasfollowed by a growth of 45 percent to 36.7 million pairs

Table 5.13 Imports of footwear into the EU by end use and material in volume and value, 1998-2000 (excl. safetyfootwear and parts of footwear)

1998 1999 2000

mln mln mln mln mln mlnpairs US$ pairs US$ pairs US$

Outdoor footwear:– of leather 575 9,813 632 10,143 649 9,477– waterproof 22 143 25 145 24 116– of plastic/rubber 257 1,692 285 1,701 314 1,908– of textiles 176 915 186 986 175 910– of other materials 23 107 30 132 24 104Total outdoor footwear 1,053 12,670 1,158 13,107 1,186 12,515

Sport shoes:– of leather 37 711 36 635 40 621– of plastic/rubber 40 523 42 518 45 504– of textiles 115 1,462 113 1,400 109 1,359Total sport shoes 192 2,696 191 2,553 194 2,484

Indoor footwear:– of leather 15 107 15 112 16 111– of plastic/rubber 13 41 13 44 11 35– of textiles 171 419 176 410 185 402Total indoor footwear 199 567 204 566 212 548

Total imports 1,444 15,933 1,553 16,226 1,592 15,547

Source: Eurostat

in imports of footwear, not covering the ankle withvamp of straps or pieces cut out and a heel height ofmore than 3 cm.

Outdoor footwear with uppers of textilesImports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles intothe EU increased from 176 million pair in 1998 to 186 million in 1999, but then decreased to 175 millionin 2000. This product group covered for 89 percentrubber or plastic soles, 2 percent leather soles, 1 percentwood or cork and 8 percent other soles Average importprices remained rather stable around US$ 5.20.

Sports footwearSports shoes with textile uppers covered 56 percent ofEU sports footwear imports in the period under review.This product group, despite a fall in imports, remainedvery important. Official statistics make no furtherspecifications of this product group. Imports of ski and snowboard boots with uppers ofrubber or plastic increased from 4.7 million to 5.9 million pairs in the period 1998-2000, whileimports with leather uppers almost halved. Leathersports footwear imports include for a very small part(less than 1%) ski and snowboard boots.EU imports of sportswear with uppers of rubber orplastic (other than ski and snowboard boots) were 10 percent higher in 2000 than in 1998, with uppers ofleather also 10 percent, while the most importantcategory sports footwear, namely uppers of textiles,were 5 percent lower. The popularity of the specificsports shoes in several EU countries is declining,because the fashion trend is towards easy-to-wear andeasy-to-care footwear. Differences between town or citywear and sportswear became much smaller.

Indoor footwearEU imports of indoor footwear increased more than 3 percent annually in the period under review, mainlycaused by indoor footwear with textile and leather

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uppers, both with outer soles of rubber or plastic.Imports of textile uppers increased from 73 millionpairs in 1998 to 89 million in 2000 and leather uppersfrom 11 to 13 million pairs.Just like in the case of sports footwear, the productgroup with uppers of textile dominated with around 87 percent of total imports of indoor footwear. Average import prices decreased on average 4.7 percentannually.

Germany

Five product groups: outdoor footwear with uppers ofleather (and soles of rubber etc.), plastic/rubber andtextiles, sport shoes of textiles and leather indoorfootwear) covered 88 percent of German imports interms of value in 2000.Total imports decreased, mainly caused by a fall inimports of the leading product group outdoor footwearwith leather uppers. The main developments in Germanimports of the product category leather outdoorfootwear, besides a general decrease in imports of mostitems, were:• decrease in imports of footwear for men and women

with outer soles of synthetic leather etc. and notcovering the ankle with vamp or straps or pieces cutout, from 30.3 million pairs in 1998 to 26.9 millionin 2000;

• increase in imports of footwear for men and womenwith outer soles of rubber, plastic or synthetic leatherand not covering the ankle (without vamp or strapsor pieces cut out), from 77.6 million pairs in 1998 to 86.2 million in 2000;

• decrease in imports of footwear covering the ankle(under calf) for men, women and children with outersoles of synthetic leather etc. from 28.2 million pairsin 1998 to 20.2 million in 2000;

• increase in imports of footwear covering the ankle(above calf) for men and women with outer soles ofsynthetic leather etc. from 4.5 million pairs in 1998to 6.4 million in 2000.

Table 5.14 EU imports of footwear with leather uppers and rubber, plastic or synthetic leather outer soles, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000

mln mln mln mln mln mlnpairs US$ pairs US$ pairs US$

Footwear covering ankle:– under calf 90.4 1,762 86.9 1,654 101.0 1,271– other footwear 15.6 307 11.8 242 16.7 315Footwear not covering ankle: 0 0 0 0 0 0– with vamp of straps or pieces cut out 72.4 891 81.4 944 78.7 913– other footwear 297.1 4,891 354.8 5,487 366.5 5,383Total 475.5 7,851 534.9 8,327 562.9 7,882

Source: Eurostat

Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of rubber orplastic increased from 58.3 million in 1998 to 77.9 million pairs in 2000. In this product group, thefollowing items showed the biggest growth: footwearnot covering the ankle with vamp of straps or withpieces cut out (10.0 million in 1998 and 18.4 millionpairs in 2000) and with heels of more than 3 cm. (6.8 million in 1998 and 10.2 million pairs in 2000).

Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles intoGermany increased from 28.5 million pairs in 1998 to33.2 million in 2000. Imports of shoes with soles ofrubber or plastic increased from 141 million in 1998(US$ 4.70/pair) to 157 million in 2000 (US$ 5.50/pair),however, imports of textile uppers with other soles fellfrom 26 to 12 million pairs in the same period, withaverage import prices of respectively US$ 2.30 in 1998and US$ 3.75 in 2000.

German imports of leather (other than ski andsnowboard boots) and textile sport shoes decreasedconsiderably: uppers of leather from 5.5 to 4.7 millionpairs and uppers of textiles from 18.4 to 13.3 million.Imports of sports shoes with rubber or plastic uppersincreased from 2.4 million in 1998 to 2.9 million pairsin 2000. Imports of ski boots with rubber or plasticuppers decreased 5.5 percent to 807 thousand pairs infavour of snowboard boots of rubber and plastic andleather boots.

Imports of indoor footwear decreased just like thecategories outdoor and sports footwear during theperiod 1998-2000. Indoor footwear with textile upperscovered 78 percent (in terms of volume) of totalimports in 2000 and increased from 28.4 million pairsin 1998 to 29.2 million in 2000, while imports of allother types of indoor footwear decreased.

United Kingdom

Leather outdoor footwear covered almost two thirds ofUK imports (in terms of value) in 2000. The growth ofimports in the period 1998-2000 from 260 million to272 million pairs was mainly caused by outdoorfootwear of all materials and indoor footwear withtextile uppers.Imports of low (not covering the ankle) outdoor shoeswith leather uppers and rubber, plastic or syntheticleather soles increased for children by 45 percent to20.4 million pairs, for men by 21 percent to 29.4million pairs in the period 1998-2000, while footwearfor women in this product group fell 2.7 percent to 43.5 million pairs in 2000. Imports of women’s shoeswith high heels (more than 3 cm) rose from 3.7 millionto 6.7 million in 2000. Imports of high outdoorfootwear decreased: under calf from 10.0 to 8.9 millionpairs and other (higher) footwear from 2.7 to 2.1 million.

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Imports of outdoor footwear into the UK, with uppersof rubber or plastic, increased by 5.5 percent annuallyto 50.3 million pairs in 2000. Imports of children’sfootwear showed the biggest growth in this category(9.8 million in 1998 and 11.1 million pairs in 2000followed by several other items, like shoes with highheels (from 4.9 to 6.1 million pairs).

Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles intothe UK fluctuated: they grew from 23.2 million pairs in1998 to 25.4 million in 1999 and fell to 23.1 in 2000.These imports concerned for 83 percent footwear withrubber or plastic soles and for 12 percent footwear withsoles of wood or cork, while the remaining partconcerned other materials for the sole, like leather.

Imports of nearly all types of sport shoes decreasedwith the exception of snowboard footwear, of whichimports are very limited, and leather uppers. Imports ofsport shoes with uppers of leather grew modestly by 1 percent to 6.5 million. Imports of sport shoes, otherthan ski boots, decreased in a strong variety: uppers ofrubber or plastic decreased from 7.3 million in 1998 to6.5 million pairs in 2000; sport shoes with uppers oftextiles from 18.3 to 16.8 million.

UK imports of indoor footwear increased stronglyduring the period 1998-2000 from 32.7 million to 39.9 million pairs in 2000. Indoor footwear with textileuppers covered 92 percent (in terms of volume) of totalimports in 2000. Imports of indoor footwear withuppers of leather and uppers of rubber or plasticincreased considerably, namely from 1.1 million in1998 to 1.7 million pairs in 2000 for leather uppers andfrom 1.1 to 1.5 million for rubber or plastic uppers.

France

Outdoor footwear covered 80 percent of French importsof footwear (excluding safety footwear and parts offootwear) in 2000. Imports of all major types ofoutdoor footwear increased in 2000 compared with1998 (and 1999). Sport shoes’ imports increasedslightly and imports of indoor footwear increased,caused by increased imports of slippers with uppers oftextiles with rubber or plastic soles, while indoorfootwear with other uppers decreased.

Imports of low (not covering the ankle) outdoor shoeswith leather uppers and rubber, plastic or syntheticleather soles increased from 44.6 million pairs in 1998to 54.5 million in 2000, while high (covering the ankle)fell from 18.0 to 14.9 million pairs in the same period.In this product group imports of footwear for childrenincreased from 11.6 million in 1998 to 14.7 millionpairs in 2000, for men from 16.6 million to 21.1 millionand for women from 25.7 million to 28.6 million pairs.Imports of women’s shoes with high heels (more than

3 cm) did not grow so fast, like in the UK, and rosefrom 4.8 to 5.3 million pairs.

Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of rubber orplastic increased from 43.1 million in 1998 to 52.8 million pairs in 2000. In this product group,the following items showed the biggest growth:low shoes (not covering the ankle) with vamp of strapsor with pieces cut out (6.7 million in 1998 and 9.4 million pairs in 2000) and with high heels (5.7 million in 1998 and 10.1 million pairs in 2000).Imports of other low shoes for all sexes decreased,while rubber boots increased in the period under review.

French imports of outdoor footwear with uppers oftextiles more or less stabilised in the period 1998-2000and covered for 94 percent footwear with rubber orplastic soles and to a much lesser degree other soleslike wood, cork or leather. The trend in French fashion, the change from the dailywearing of sports shoes to more casual outdoorfootwear is illustrated by developments in imports. In the period 1998-2000, outdoor footwear importsincreased by 10 percent (almost 18 million pairs),while sports footwear imports increased 2 percent (a growth of 0.6 million pairs). French imports of nearly all types of sport shoesincreased, with the exception of footwear with rubberor plastic uppers other than ski boots and snowboardboots. Imports of ski and snowboard footwear with plasticuppers increased from 19.6 to 23.7 million pairs in2000, while leather uppers decreased considerably.Imports of sport shoes, other than ski and snowboardfootwear, increased: uppers of leather from 3.5 to 3.9 million and uppers of textiles from 18.1 to 18.4 million, while (as mentioned above) uppers ofrubber and plastic fell from 3.3 to 2.9 millionpairs in 2000.

Imports of indoor footwear into France increasedstrongly during the period 1998-2000, namely from44.1 million to 51.1 million pairs in 2000, mainlycaused by a considerable increase in imports of indoorfootwear with uppers of textiles and soles of rubber orplastic from 19.0 million in 1998 to 26.4 million pairsin 2000. Indoor footwear with textile uppers accountedfor 96 percent (in terms of volume) of total imports in2000.

Italy

Italian imports of footwear (excluding safety footwearand parts of footwear) increased 9.4 percent annually interms of volume to 190 million pairs in 2000, caused byincreased imports of outdoor footwear. Imports ofoutdoor footwear with uppers of leather increased from45 million pairs in 1998 to 62 million in 2000, and

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uppers of rubber or plastic from 24 million to 31 million pairs. Imports of low (not covering the ankle) outdoor shoeswith leather uppers and rubber, plastic or syntheticleather soles increased considerably by almost 18 million pairs, while imports of high (covering theankle) outdoor footwear fell from 8.6 to 8.4 million in2000. In this product group, imports of footwear for childrenincreased from 4.1 million in 1998 to 5.1 million pairsin 2000, for women from 10.1 to 18.0 million, for menfrom 18.7 to 23.8 million and for both sexes from 5.3 to7.4 million pairs.

Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of rubber orplastic into Italy grew 34 percent in the period underreview, namely from 22.9 million in 1998 to 30.8 million pairs in 2000. The following items showedthe biggest growth in this product group: footwear withupper of straps attached to the sole with plugs (4.9 million in 1998 and 8.9 million pairs in 2000),footwear not covering the ankle with vamp of straps orwith pieces cut out (3.4 million in 1998 and 5.2 millionpairs in 2000) and high (more than 3 cm) heels (1.9 million in 1998 and 2.8 million pairs in 2000).

Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles intoItaly increased from 27.1 million pair in 1998 to 30.6 million in 2000 and consisted mainly (75%) offootwear with rubber or plastic soles. This percentagefell considerably because imports of indoor footwearwith textiles uppers increased from 5.4 million pairs in1998 to 6.3 million in 2000.

Italian imports of all sport shoes increased from 31.2 million in 1998 to 32.9 million in 2000, caused byincreased imports of footwear with rubber or plasticuppers including snowboard and ski boots and despite afall in imports of sportswear with leather and textilesuppers. Imports of sport shoes with leather uppers,other than ski and snowboard boots, decreasedconsiderably: from 7.1 million in 1998 to 5.1 millionpairs in 2000 and uppers of textiles decreased veryslightly to 18.6 million pairs in 2000.

Italian imports of indoor footwear decreased on average2.5 percent annually during the period 1998-2000,namely from 32.6 million to 31.0 million pairs in 2000.Indoor footwear with textile uppers covered 87 percent(in terms of volume) of total imports in 2000. This percentage decreased in comparison with 1998,because imports of indoor footwear with uppers ofleather increased from 1.0million in 1998 to 3.0 million pairs in 2000 and despitea fall in imports of plastic/rubber uppers from 1.7 to 1.1 million pairs.

The Netherlands

Imports of footwear (excluding safety footwear andparts of footwear) into The Netherlands increased 16 percent in terms of volume to 131 million pairs in1999, caused by increased imports of the productcategories: outdoor and sports footwear. In 2000,imports fell by 2.2 percent to 129 million items. Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of leatherincreased from 43 million pairs in 1998 to 52 million in2000, and uppers of rubber or plastic from 24 million to30 million pairs. Imports of outdoor shoes with leather uppers andrubber, plastic or synthetic leather soles increased by10.3 million pairs, namely for children from 5.6 millionin 1998 to 6.0 million pairs in 1999, for women from13.3 to 18.3 million, for men from 13.4 to 14.9 millionand for both sexes from 5.8 to 9.2 million pairs.Imports of women’s shoes with high heels (more than 3 cm) grew 5 percent from 695 thousand pairs in 1998to 718 thousand in 2000.

Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of rubber orplastic into The Netherlands increased from 24.5 million in 1998 to 29.8 million pairs in 2000.Imports of the major items in this product groupincreased strongly, except for footwear with upper ofstraps attached to the sole with plugs. The followingitems showed the biggest growth in this product group:rubber boots (3.9 million in 1998 and 6.9 million pairsin 2000) and footwear not covering the ankle withvamp of straps or with pieces cut out (2.8 million in1998 and 6.3 million pairs in 2000).

Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles intoThe Netherlands fell from 22.6 million pairs in 1998 to16.6 million in 2000 and consisted for 91 percent offootwear with rubber or plastic soles and for 9 percentof other materials, like wood, cork or leather.

Imports of nearly all types of sport shoes increased,with the exception of sportswear of plastic or rubberuppers, including ski and snowboard boots while

38

imports of ski and snowboard boots with leather uppersincreased. Imports of sport shoes, other than ski andsnowboard boots, increased considerably: uppers ofleather from 1.2 to 2.3 million and uppers of textilesfrom 5.6 to 9.3 million.

Netherlands imports of indoor footwear increased onaverage 15 percent annually during the period 1998-2000, namely from 10.9 million to 14.2 millionpairs in 2000. Indoor footwear with textile upperscovered 89 percent (in terms of volume) of totalimports in 2000. This percentage increased comparedwith 1998 because imports of indoor footwear withuppers of plastic/rubber decreased from 0.9 million in1998 to 0.7 million pairs in 2000 and imports of leatheruppers from 1.2 million to 0.9 million pairs.

5.3 The role of developing countriesChina remained the leading exporter of footwear to theEU, however, the difference with number two Vietnambecame very small in terms of value. EU imports fromChina rose from US$ 1,261 million in 1998 to US$ 1,661 million in 2000, while imports fromVietnam rose from US$ 967 million in 1998 to US$ 1,509 million.

The growth in imports from developing countries in2000 can be ascribed to the following categories:• Asian-low price suppliers, like China and Vietnam.

Other countries from the Far East with sharplyincreased exports into the EU were Cambodia,Macao and Malaysia. It should be noted thatstatistics do not take into account the considerablevolume of (fraudulent) imports of Chinese productsvia other countries from the Far and Middle East.

• CEECs, like Bosnia & Herzegovina, Moldova andSlovenia.

Just over 81 percent of total EU imports of footwearfrom developing countries came from Asian developingcountries, while in 1997 this was 78 percent. Leading countries were China, Vietnam, Indonesia,

Table 5.17 Imports of footwear from leading developing countries by major EU countries, 2000(in % of value of total imports)

1 2 3 4 5

EU (15) China (9.3%) Vietnam (8.5%) Indonesia (3.5%) India (2.5%) Tunisia (1.6%)Germany Vietnam (9.8%) China (6.9%) India (2.4%) Indonesia (2.2%) South Korea (1.4%)The Netherlands China (15.7%) Vietnam (9.2%) Indonesia (4.2%) Thailand (2.8%) Macao (1.4%)France Vietnam (7.4%) China (6.2%) Tunisia (3.4%) Morocco (3.1%) Indonesia (1.6%)UK China (12.3%) Vietnam (10.7%) India (6.2%) Indonesia (5.4%) Brazil (3.9%)Italy China (7.6%) Tunisia (6.1%) Vietnam (5.4%) Albania (2.9%) India (2.8%)


India and Tunisia as mentioned before. Imports fromACP countries rose from US$ 8.7 million in 1991 toUS$ 32 million in 1995 and to US$ 38.5 million in1999 but fell back to US$ 27.9 million in 2000. The leading country remained the Dominican Republic(65% of ACP imports) followed by Cape Verde (20%),Senegal (4%) and Mozambique (3%). Imports from Mediterranean countries fell by 1.4 percent to an import share of 8.2 percent and camemainly from Tunisia and to a lesser degree fromMorocco. Imports from CEECs in total increased,countries like Bosnia & Herzegovina and Sloveniaincreased their exports to the EU, while EU importsfrom Albania, Croatia and Macedonia decreased.Imports from Central & South American countriesdecreased by 3.3 percent in 2000. Imports from theleading country Brazil more or less stabilised, whileimports from other countries (Mexico, Columbia andArgentina) decreased.

The role of Asian developing countries in Germanimports of footwear became more important: 82 percentof total imports from developing countries in 2000,which is 3 percent higher than in the year before.Vietnam and China were the leading suppliers followedat distance by India, Indonesia and South Korea. Other developing countries with exports of more thanUS$ 10 million to Germany in 2000 were: Macao,Tunisia, Morocco, Croatia, Brazil and Cambodia. Almost 90 percent of UK imports from developingcountries came from Asian countries, mainly China andVietnam, followed by India, Indonesia and Thailand.The UK was also the leading importer from Central &South American countries (mainly Brazil). Imports witha value of more than US$ 10 million in 2000 came

39

from Macao, South Korea, Philippines, Sri Lanka andTunisia.Traditionally, an important part of French footwearcame from the Mediterranean countries Morocco andTunisia. These countries ranked 3rd and 4th afterVietnam and China. Other developing countries withexports of more than US$ 10 million to France in 2000were: Indonesia, India, Thailand, Slovakia,South Korea, Cambodia and Brazil. Italian imports from all areas of developing countriesincreased with the exception of ACP countries. Italy was the leading importer from developing CEECs(Albania, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina andSlovenia).Almost 25 percent of Netherlands’ imports came fromChina and Vietnam. Other major suppliers to theNetherlands (valued at more than US$ 10 million)were: Indonesia, Thailand, Macao, Brazil, South Korea,India and the Dominican Republic. The Netherlandswas the leading importer from ACP countries, however,almost all imports (98%) came from one country, theDominican Republic.The Dominican Republic and Senegal were suppliers toFrance and Cape Verde to Portugal. Remarkable are thevery low German and Italian imports from ACPcountries.

The role of developing countries in selected majorproduct groupsAs discussed before, the imports of sports footwearincreased slightly and remained rather important. The import share of developing countries was 56 percent in imports of plastic or rubber sportsfootwear: 48 percent in sports footwear with leatheruppers and 61 percent in sports footwear with textile

Table 5.18 Imports of footwear from area of developing countries in value, 2000 (in US$ mln)

Total ACP- CEECs Mediter- Asia Central & Otherdeveloping countries ranean Southern

countries America

EU 6,206.8 27.9 397.6 510.7 5,038.8 227.7 4.1

UK 1,370.5 1.4 1.2 12.9 1,233.2 119.0 2.8Germany 1,244.0 0.5 73.6 111.2 1,018.1 40.5 0.1Italy 926.7 0.2 240.1 178.2 497.2 10.9 0.0France 776.9 7.6 16.9 187.8 551.3 13.2 0.1Belgium 554.3 0.1 1.0 2.3 548.4 1.9 0.6Netherlands 533.9 11.1 4.2 5.4 494.3 18.6 0.3Spain 230.7 0.1 0.0 9.6 216.1 4.8 0.1Sweden 128.3 0.0 3.2 0.2 120.0 4.8 0.1Denmark 119.9 0.1 0.5 0.1 112.9 6.3 0.0Austria 111.0 0.0 55.8 0.4 53.6 1.2 0.0Other (5) 210.6 6.8 1.1 2.6 193.7 6.5 0.0


uppers in 2000. These percentages were somewhatlower in 1998: 55, 44 and 60 percent respectively.95 percent of sports footwear and plastic or rubberfootwear came from Asian developing countries, ofwhich imports from China increased to 17.5 millionpairs (73 percent of total Asian exports). Imports fromVietnam (5.0 million in 1998 to 2.5 million in 2000)and Indonesia (2.8 million in 1998 to 2.5 million in2000) decreased in favour of imports from China. Other Asian developing countries exported 1.6 millionpairs in total to the EU in 2000 (11.1 million pairs in1999); increased EU imports came from Macao, SouthKorea, Philippines and Malaysia. The role of developing countries from other areas, likeCentral and Eastern Europe (Bosnia & Herzegovina,Croatia, Slovenia and Macedonia) and theMediterranean (Turkey and Tunisia) was rather limited,with respectively 1.0 and 0.2 million pairs in total.Asian developing countries were also dominant in EUimports of sports footwear with leather uppers:96 percent of the total imports from developingcountries came from this area. Imports from Chinaincreased from 6.3 million pairs in 1998 to 8.1 millionin 2000 and imports from Vietnam from 3.2 to 4.7 million pairs in the same period. Much smallerincrease in imports came from countries like SouthKorea (from 0.6 to 0.8 million) and the Philippines(from 0.4 to 0.6 million). Indonesia was confrontedwith lower exports to the EU, because its imports fellfrom 3.5 million pairs in 1998 to 3.1 million in 2000.We saw a limited role again for other areas ofdeveloping countries, as mentioned above.

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The leading product group in imports of sportswearwere sports footwear with textile uppers, of which thedevelopments can be deduced from the following table.Again, there was an important role for Asian countriesin total, with China and Vietnam as leading exporters,despite a fall in imports from Vietnam. In this productgroup, Indonesia and Thailand were also confrontedwith a remarkable fall in exports to the EU.

EU imports of outdoor footwear with plastic or rubberouter soles and uppers increased from 257 million in1998 to 314 million pairs in 2000. The role ofdeveloping countries in EU imports became moreimportant in absolute terms in the period under review,because total imports rose from 160 million to 200 million in the same period. In relative terms,imports increased from 62.2 percent to 63.6 percent in2000. The leading suppliers in this product group wereChina with 81.7 million pairs (29% higher than in1998) and Vietnam with 62.8 million (as much as 42%higher). Other EU suppliers were Indonesia with 15.9 million pairs in 2000 (23.8 million in 1998),Thailand with 15.4 million pairs (15.6 mln in 1998),Malaysia 5.4 million pairs (198 mln in 1998),Cambodia 4.8 million (0.6 mln in 1998), Macao 2.9 million (1.1 mln in 1998) and the Philippines 2.4 million (2.7 mln in 1998).Brazil exported 1.6 million and Morocco 1.2 millionpairs to the EU in 2000, respectively 1.1 and 1.3 mln in1998. Exports by Turkey to the EU increased from 1.4 million to 1.7 million pairs in 2000. An increase ofimports from CEECs into the EU came from countrieslike Czech Republic, Slovenia and Bosnia &Herzegovina; however, these imports were limited.

The role of developing countries in EU imports ofoutdoor footwear with leather uppers and outer soles isvery limited as compared to many other categories offootwear. Only 14 percent of a total of 70 million pairsin EU imports came from these countries. This was fora substantial part caused by the EU’s trade policymeasures such as quota restrictions and anti-dumpingpolicy. More information is given in chapter 1.2 of theStrategic Marketing Guide “Footwear”.Around 60 percent of EU imports from developingcountries came from Asian countries, of which Indiawas the leading exporter with 3.2 million pairs followedby Vietnam (1.2 mln), Indonesia, China (each 0.4 mln)and Thailand (0.1 mln). Other suppliers were Tunisia(0.9 million in 2000), Croatia (0.7 mln), Morocco (0.5 mln) and Brazil (0.4 mln). Imports from all thesecountries increased, with the exception of Croatia.EU imports from developing countries of outdoorfootwear with uppers of textiles and outer soles ofrubber or plastic increased in absolute terms (from 82to 96 million pairs) as well as in relative terms (from 58to 61%). Leading suppliers in this product group wereVietnam (39.6 million pairs) and China (30.0 mln).

Table 5.19 EU imports of sports footwear withuppers of textiles from developingcountries, 1998-2000 (in million pairs)

1998 2000

Total EU imports 115.1 109.4From developing countries 70.0 66.2of which from:Asia 68.4 64.8– China 25.4 28.9– Vietnam 18.9 15.0– Indonesia 10.2 9.4– Thailand 5.5 3.6– India 1.9 1.4– Pakistan 1.5 1.6Central and Eastern Europe 1.0 0.9– Croatia 1.0 0.8Mediterranean 0.5 0.5– Morocco 0.4 0.4Other 0.1 0.0

Source: Eurostat

Much smaller volumes came from countries likeCambodia( 3.9 mln), Thailand (3.4 mln), India (2.8 mln), Macao (2.5 mln), Pakistan (2.4 mln) andIndonesia (2.4 mln) followed by Bangladesh andMalaysia. Imports from Asian developing countriesaccounted for 97 percent of total imports fromdeveloping countries in 2000. The remaining 4 percentcame mainly from the Dominican Republic (1.2 mln),Turkey (0.5 mln), Brazil (0.5 mln), Croatia (0.4 mln)and Morocco (0.3 mln).

The most important product group by far in EU importsof footwear in volume as well as in value remainedoutdoor footwear with uppers of leather and outer solesof plastic or rubber. The role of developing countriesbecame much more important: imports from thesecountries rose almost 35 percent during 1998-2000,while total import rose 18 percent. As can be derived from the table below, the growth inimports can be ascribed to increased imports fromVietnam for a major part. Other Asian developingcountries with increased exports into the EU were:

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China, Indonesia, India and Macao. The leading non-Asian exporter in this product group remainedBrazil with a growth in imports from 9.0 in 1998 to 9.2 million pairs in 2000.

The above-mentioned product group of outdoorfootwear includes many items, among which:• low footwear (not covering the ankle) and without

vamps or straps or pieces cut out:– for children, leading supplier of the developing

countries was Indonesia with 8.1 million pairs in2000 or 15 percent of total EU imports, followedby Vietnam (8.0 mln), China (4.7 mln), Thailand(1.4 mln) and Macao (0.8 mln). Imports from allthese countries grew, compared with imports in1998, except for Thailand.

– for women, leading supplier of the developingcountries was Vietnam with 11.5 million pairs in2000 or 8.6 percent of total EU imports, followedby China (4.4 mln), Brazil (4.4 mln), Indonesia(3.8 mln), and India (2.8 mln). ). Imports from allthese countries grew, compared with imports in1998, except for Brazil.

– for men, leading supplier of the developingcountries was Vietnam with 11.1 million pairs in2000 or 9.2 percent of total EU imports, followedby India (9.0 mln); China (7.8 mln), Indonesia(5.8 mln) and Thailand (1.8 mln). ). Imports fromall these countries grew, compared with imports in1998, except for Thailand.

• women’s shoes with height of heel more than 3 cm.(mainly pumps). EU imports of this product groupwere 7.3 percent higher in 2000 than in 1998. Againthe role of developing countries was very important.Imports from the following countries increased:Vietnam (from 0.9 mln in 1997 to 1.5 mln in 2000 or 6.6% of total EU imports), Brazil (from 0.7 to 1.4 mln) and India (from 0.3 to 0.8 mln) and Macao(from 0.3 to 0.4 mln).

Imports from developing countries of indoor footwearwith uppers of textiles and outer soles of plastic orrubber increased in absolute terms (from 25 to 40million pairs) as well as in relative terms (from 34 to45%). Leading suppliers in this product group wereChina (23 million pairs) and Vietnam (8 million pairs).Much smaller volumes came from countries like Sri Lanka (1.2 mln) and Indonesia (0.6 mln). In total,84 percent of EU imports came from Asian developingcountries in 2000. Imports from Turkey increased from0.8 million in 1998 to 3.7 million pairs in 2000. Other major developing countries in this product groupwere Croatia, Morocco and Mexico.

Table 5.20 EU imports of outdoor footwear withuppers of leather and outer soles ofplastic or rubber from developingcountries, 1998-2000 (in million pairs)

1998 2000

Total EU imports 475.5 562.9From developing countries 145.2 195.6of which from:Asia 114.0 160.2- Vietnam 30.0 53.9- China 23.4 31.9- Indonesia 22.8 26.8- India 14.4 18.8- Thailand 8.8 8.7- Macao 4.8 7.3Central and Eastern Europe 10.5 11.7- Croatia 3.8 4.1- Bosnia & Herzegovina 1.5 2.6- Slovenia 2.3 1.5- Albania 0.4 1.1Mediterranean 9.9 13.3- Morocco 5.7 7.2- Tunisia 3.6 5.4Southern America 9.6 9.6- Brazil 9.0 9.2 ACP countries 1.2 0.7- Dominican Rep. 0.5 0.4- Senegal 0.5 0.2Other 0.0 0.1

Source: Eurostat

6.1 EU exports of footwearThe same restrictions for the import figures apply to theexport figures below. Refer to chapter 1 for these restrictions.The EU member states exported footwear totalling US$ 16.5 billion (€ 17.9 bn) in 2000, representing a fallin value of almost 10 percent in the period 1998-2000.In terms of volume, EU exports decreased from 967 million pairs in 1998 to 936 million in 2000.

Intra-EU exports accounted for 689 million pairs or 74 percent of total exports in 2000, which was only 1.0 percent higher than exports to other EU countries in1998. Therefore the fall in EU exports was the result oflower exports to countries outside the EU: in value (- 12.1%) and in volume (- 6.7%).

The leading EU exporter is Italy accounting for 42.5 percent of total EU exports, at a distance followedby Spain (11.5%), Belgium (8.4%), Portugal (8.2%),Germany (7.8%), France (5.6%) and The Netherlands(5.3%).

36 percent of total EU exports went to countries outsidethe Union in 2000, while in 1998 this percentage was35. The leading export product groups in terms of value

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were footwear with leather uppers and outer soles ofrubber, plastic or synthetic leather and footwear withleather uppers and leather soles. These two productgroups covered 63 percent of total EU exports in 2000,while the export share of these two product groups intotal exports to outside the EU amounted to almost 36 percent in 1998 and in 2000. Germany, France and UK were the leading destinationsfor intra-EU trade. The USA was, after Germany, the

most important destination for EU footwear, withrespectively 12.5 and 16.1 percent of total exports. 35 percent of extra-EU exports went to the USA in2000. Other main destinations outside the EU wereSwitzerland (3.2% of total EU exports and 8.7% ofnon-EU exports), Japan (6.1% of non-EU exports),Russia (5.0%), Romania (4.7%), followed by Canada,Norway, Poland and Hong Kong. Exports to the USA, Romania and Japan increased,while exports to the other countries mentioneddecreased, of which exports to Russia showed thebiggest fall. Russia ranked 3rd after USA andSwitzerland in 1998 with exports valued at US$ 525million, and then fall back to 297 million in 2000; the sharply decreased exports to Russia were caused byeconomic problems in that country.

0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000 9000 10000

Italy

Spain

Belgium/Lux.

Portugal

Germany

France

Netherlands

UK

Austria

Denmark

Finland

Sweden

Ireland

Greece

US$ millions

2000

1998

1996

Figure 6.1 EU exports of footwear by member states in terms of value, 1996-2000

6 EXPORTS

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FranceFrench exports decreased in value (11.9%) anddecreased in volume (6.5%) in the period 1998-2000,which indicates 4.9 percent lower export prices. Exports to countries outside the EU fell faster thanexports to other EU countries. Around 44 percent ofFrench intra-EU exports went to two countries:Germany and Belgium. Exports to the USA fell to US$ 98 million (25% of non-EU exports) though theUSA remained the third most important destination,followed by the UK, Italy, Spain and Switzerland.Other non-EU destinations were Japan, Tunisia,Morocco and Canada. Exports to these North Africancountries included for more than 90 percent parts offootwear.

Italy

The leading producing country Italy is also the leadingexporting country. However, Italian exports decreasedby 17.4 percent: from 422 million pairs in 1997 (valuedUS$ 8.2 billion) to 348 million in 1999 (valued US$ 6.9 billion).Half of Italian exports of footwear went to other EUcountries, of which Germany is the leading destination(17% of total exports and 34 percent of the intra-EUtrade). Exports to Germany were much lower in 2000than in the two previous years. Exports to the USAincreased considerably in volume and value, so that itpassed Germany as the leading export destination with18 percent of total exports, and 35 percent of Italianexports went to countries outside the EU. Other destinations outside the EU were Switzerland,Romania, Japan, Russia, Canada, Hong Kong andPoland. Exports to Russia, Poland and Hong Kong

Table 6.1 Developments in EU exports of footwear by member states in terms of value, 1997-2000

1997 1998 1999 2000 % change % changeUS$ mln US$ mln US$ mln US$ mln 1997-2000 1999-2000

Italy 8,236 7,846 7,316 7,029 - 14.7% - 3.9%Spain 2,158 2,157 1,881 1,910 - 11.5% + 1.5%Belgium/Lux. 1,307 1,446 1,484 1,384 + 5.9% - 6.7%Portugal 1,849 1,737 1,686 1,356 - 26.7% - 19.6%Germany 1,387 1,473 1,426 1,298 - 6.4% - 9.0%France 1,005 1,033 1,054 919 - 8.6% - 12.8%The Netherlands 678 730 867 880 + 29.8% + 1.5%UK 981 899 861 778 - 20.7% - 9.6%Austria 561 577 575 547 - 2.5% - 4.9%Denmark 251 246 296 248 - 1.2% - 16.2%Finland 89 83 67 67 - 24.7% =Sweden 66 67 71 62 - 6.1% - 12.7%Ireland 31 25 31 31 = =Greece 57 38 29 29 - 49.1% =EU (15) 18,656 18,357 17,644 16,538 - 11.4% - 6.3%


GermanyGerman footwear exports went to Austria (18% of totalexports), The Netherlands (11%), USA (8%),Switzerland (8%), UK (7%) and France (7%). Other destinations outside the EU besides the USAwere Poland, Hungary, Russia, Japan and the CzechRepublic in 2000. Exports to other EU countriesincreased in the period 1998-2000 in volume (5% to43.4 mln pairs) and decreased in value (11% to US$ 811 mln). Exports to countries outside the EU,however, decreased in volume (10% to 17.0 mln pairs)and in value (13% to US$ 487 mln, which accountedfor 38 percent of total exports), mainly due to muchlower exports to Russia (from US$ 64.8 mllion in 1998to 29.8 million in 2000). In terms of value, exports toall major destinations decreased, except exports to theUSA and Poland. Export to the latter, mainly concernedoutward processing trade (OPT). Many German manufacturers are doing well in the so-called health sector, of which Birkenstock andGanter are well-known, with important exports torespectively the USA and Japan

The Netherlands

Exports by The Netherlands amounted to 71.7 millionpairs with a value of US$ 8880 million (€ 955 mln) in2000, of which only 11 percent went to countriesoutside the EU. Leading destination within the EU wereGermany, UK, France, Belgium and Italy. In total,75 percent of Netherlands’ exports (in value) went tothese five countries. Destinations outside the EU werethe USA (6% of total exports in terms of value),Switzerland, Norway and Canada, however, exports tothe three latter countries were even much lower.

decreased. Exports to the Central and East Europeancountries mainly covered parts of footwear.

UK

UK exports of footwear increased very slightly involume (+ 0.5%) and decreased strongly in value (-13%) in the two years after 1998. Exports amountedto US$ 778 million (€ 844 mln) in 2000, of which 44 percent went to countries outside the EU, mainly theUSA. The USA remained the leading destination in theperiod under review with an export share of 23 percentof total UK exports (no less then 52% of non-EUexports). The major destination inside the EU wasIreland (19 % of total UK exports) followed by France(7%), Germany (7%), Italy (6%) and, Belgium (5%).Other destinations outside the EU, besides USA, wereJapan (4%), Canada and, Hong Kong.

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7.1 EU trade channelsFigure 7.1 shows the basic functions of the variouskinds of exporting manufacturers and traders, agents,importing manufacturers, wholesalers and retailerseither or not organised in buying or selling groups.Depending on its position in the market, the functionsof a particular distribution organisation will be linkedwith up- or downstream organisations with the samekind of specialisation. It is also possible for a givenorganisation to take over (some of) the functions of thelatter, in order to improve competitiveness (verticalintegration). For instance, manufacturers, agents andretailer organisations, like multiples and departmentstores, may also function as importer/wholesaler. Each of these groups has a different approach tobusiness and the market, with its own specificinterpretation of the marketing mix.The enormous variety in existing relations between thecompanies mentioned in figure 7.1 in practice, makes it(nearly) impossible to reproduce these relations withinthis diagramme, which is the reason why no“connecting” lines are drawn.

It is essential for the potential exporter to know intowhich product/market combination his products fit (or “which kind of business he is in”) as well as being

45

familiar with the marketing and distributioncharacteristics of these product/market combinations.These may differ significantly from combination tocombination.

7.1.1 ManufacturersManufacturing companies have more and moreswitched from manufacturing to assembling, by usingimported parts of shoes, whether or not manufacturedaccording to specific requirements. Besides thisdevelopment, the high price of manufacturing in EUcountries, like Germany, UK, The Netherlands etc. hasled to the following four de-localisation strategies bysuppliers of footwear:• subcontracting, manufacturing by a third party of

materials owned by the principal and according tohis specifications;

• foreign production, production carried out in aforeign subsidiary of an European company;

• sourcing, buying goods according to specificationsissued by the principal according to his specifications;

• outward processing trade (OPT), parts areexported to be made up into finished footwear inthird countries. The footwear is then re-imported atpreferential tariffs (on added value). OPTdevelopments in the EU are discussed in chapter 4.

7 TRADE STRUCTURE

Figure 7.1 Distribution pattern for footwear in the EU

Domestic producer Foreign producer/exporter

Agents Wholesaler/importer Agents

Non-organised Footwear Buying/Selling Other independents multiple stores organisations outlets

Franchise Organisedorganisations independents

Manufacturing companies play a pivotal role in thedistribution system. Most footwear manufacturerswholesale their own goods to retailers, and some evenfunction as retailer as well. Manufacturers with theirown outlets are Clarks in the UK, Eram in France etc.Shoe manufacturers generally sell their products(mainly brands) themselves and therefore they have adirect relationship with the distribution network.According to the importance of the distributor and thesize of the company, it is the sales manager (or themanaging director himself) or the sales representativeof a region empowered by the manufacturer, whoensures business dealings between production anddistribution. Mainly products like slippers, roped solesfootwear and items with textile uppers are tradedthrough the wholesale channel. An increasing number of manufacturers of brandedclothing has added footwear to their assortment,for instance: Marc O’ Polo, Esprit, Mexx, Hugo Boss,Jackpot, Cottonfield, More & More.

7.1.2 AgentsAgents are mere intermediaries who do not “take astand” on products. The agent may serve as anintermediary between the manufacturer and the retailer,receiving a commission from the former. The level ofthe commission depends on a number of factors,including the turnover rate of the product concerned; it averages an estimated 10-15 percent of turnover.Most agents represent more than one manufacturer,although competition is avoided. More and more agentsare starting to sell from stock, to meet their clients’short-term demands. Stock-forming is often on aconsignment basis. If the agent builds up his own stock,he is in fact functioning as an importer/wholesaler.Agents operate mainly in the segments highprice/quality and in the middle/high price, classical,branded shoes fashion. Addresses of organisations ofagents are given in Appendix 4.

7.1.3 Importers/wholesalersContrary to the agent, the wholesaler holds his ownstocks at own risk. The fact that many independentretailers as well as buying organisations and multiplestores are becoming more cautious about pre-ordering,prefer to sell from stock, is reinforcing the position ofthe importer/wholesaler. However, more and morebigger organisations buy directly or via buying officesand import by themselves. The choice of whether to sell directly to a wholesaler orthrough an agent depends on the type of supplierorganisation concerned and its product/marketcombinations. All the factors relating to pricing,collection forming, sampling, fashionably, deliverytimes, delivery frequency, product quality,exclusiveness, labels and packing and promotion mayplay a role in this respect. Addresses of wholesaleorganisations are provided for reference in Appendix 4.

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7.1.4 RetailersRetailers constitute the final stage before products reachthe consumer. The various retailing outlets differ in thesales formula they apply, i.e. their assortment and thetargeted consumer group, as well as in the way theydistinguish themselves from competitors. As an aid tounderstanding the market, one can discriminate between“service retailing”, where the retailer offers theconsumer substantial added value (quality, service,fashionably, choice etc.), and “low-margin retailing”,where the price-conscious consumer is offered lowprices, at the expense of quality, service and so forth.Outlets of the first kind are often referred to as being atthe “upper end” of the market, the latter at the “lower end” of the market; intermediate-type outletsmay be termed “mid-market”.Another criteria for dividing the market is thecomposition of the total assortment: specialised infootwear eventually complemented with a limitednumber of related fashionable products like clothing,hand bags etc., indicated as specialised stores orspecialists. The difference between independentretailers and multiples is formed by the number ofoutlets: multiples are organisations with 7 or moreoutlets. The main operations of independent retailersare in the middle and upper sections of the market.They lack the advantages of economies of scale andconsequently have to work with higher margins. This means that the products must be fashionable andexclusive, otherwise customers will purchase in cheaperstores. Non-specialists cover stores with an assortment ofvarious branches (department stores, variety stores),or specialists in a branch other than footwear, of whichfootwear forms a complementary product like textilediscounters, drug stores, super- and hypermarkets,mail-order companies etc. The remaining channels arestreet markets, factory outlets, non-food stores likesport shops, etc. Table 7.1 gives an overview of how the consumer hasbeen reached in several major EU member states.

Besides the growing role of non-specialiseddistributors, as mentioned above, the most importantdevelopments are increasing concentration(developments in the major countries will be givenbelow) and growing internationalisation or cross-borderactivities, of which the main (besides many others)examples are Garant Schuh AG in Germany and sportsformula like Intersport and Sport 2000.

Germany

Around 8,400 specialised footwear retailers operated inGermany in 2001. However, they met strongcompetition from mail-order companies and from hyperand supermarkets, although their market share is stillover 60 percent, while non-footwear specialised trade(sports shops and clothing shops) took 11 percenttogether.

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Independent specialised retailers: The high share of co-operating specialised retailers, which amounts toround 43 percent, is remarkable, also in comparisonwith other branches. Most of them belong to a buyinggroup. The leading buying groups are: Garant Schuh + Mode AG and Ariston/Nord-West-Ring e.G.(ANWR). Garant included 4,850 members/retailerswith 6,470 stores/outlets at the end of 2000. Garantoperates in 12 European countries with 1,950 membersin Germany, 1,260 in France, 740 in The Netherlands,250 in Austria and 650 in other European countries,of which 3,160 specialised footwear retailers,1,090 specialised sports and leisure footwear retailersand 600 specialist in leather ware and accessories. Garant’s formula are, among others, Podo Linéa(comfortable footwear), Firetti (fashionable footwear),Fair Play (sports and leisure footwear) and OutdoorCenter International (leisure footwear). ANWR was formed by a merger of Ariston and Nord-West-Ring at the end of 2000. ANWR had 2,100 members (of which 1,600 in Germany) with4,300 outlets at the end of 2000. One of the formula issports and leisure chain Sport 2000 with 700 membersand 1,000 outlets. Other marketing formula are QuickSchuh, ABC-Schuhe, Arbell and Mania. ANWRoperates in many other European countries and isassociated with the buying group Hobo Faam inBelgium.Other buying groups are Rexor (around 500 shops) andSalamander-Bund. The latter is part of the SalamanderGroup, with some 1,000 retailers trading mainly asSalamander.Footwear multiple stores: About 50 multiple chainsaccount for 30 percent of the market. The leadingfootwear multiple is Deichmann with 800 shops andselling its own labels in the several chains. RolandSchuhe (60 outlets), Dosenbach & Ochsner (250),Van Haren (100) and Rack Room Shoes (USA) are daughter companies in the retail sector. Besides Salamander, mentioned above, the following

Table 7.1 Types of retail channels by market share (in % of value) in major EU countries, 2001

Footwear Independent Department Mail- Hyper-/ Sports Other Totalmultiple specialised & variety order super- shops 1)

stores retailers stores houses markets

Germany 31 30 6 11 4 8 10 100United Kingdom 32 10 16 8 4 14 16 100The Netherlands 41 41 3 1 1 7 6 100France 38 22 4 4 12 11 9 100Italy 9 53 6 0 7 9 16 100Belgium 29 47 4 2 1 9 8 100EU (15) 29 36 5 6 4 10 10 100

1) including clothing shops, street markets and otherSources: OETH and Retail Intelligence

Table 7.2 Market shares for retail distribution offootwear in Germany, 1997-2001

1997 1999 2001

Specialists 64 62 61– Independent retailers 33 31 30– Footwear multiple stores 31 31 31Non-specialists 36 38 39– Department and variety stores 5 5 6– Mail-order houses 12 11 11– Sports shops 7 8 8– Hyper- and supermarkets 3 4 4– Clothing shops 3 4 3– Other outlets 6 6 7Total 100 100 100

Source: BBI and BTE

chains are active: Reno (owned by discount chainHamm); Görtz (200 outlets under differentiatedconcepts like Görtz, Lady Görtz, Görtz 17 anddiscounter Hess). Clothing shops: Leading clothing multiples withfootwear in their assortment are C&A (192 outlets),Peek & Cloppenburg (West: 79 and North 27 outlets),Hennes & Mauritz (167), Sinn Leffers (43), K+LRuppert (36), Vögele (205) , Wöhrl (35), Boecker (21)and Hettlage (43). Ladies’ wear multiples are Appelrath-Cüpper (13) andBiBa (97), both part of Douglas; Orsay (227) fromFrance; Jean Pascale (169); Bonita Mode (307) andUlla Popken (265).There are a few men’s clothing multiples in Germany ofwhich can be mentioned: Pohland (12) and NicolasScholz (35). Leisure or jeans shops are, among others,Western Store Beran (202) and Werdin (70).Sports shops: Important channels for sport shoes butalso for casual and leisure wear, are the sport specialityshops. Many of them are organised in co-operations(organisations of independent retailers) like Intersport(1,450 outlets) and Sport 2000 (1,000 outlets). Sport chains are: Runners Point (106 outlets, part ofKarstadt/Quelle); Sport Voswinkel (35), Sport Treff(21). It is estimated that around half of the sales of sportshoes has been sold by sport specialists.Department and variety stores: Leading departmentstores are Karstadt and Kaufhof. Karstadt, with its 178 stores, is just like Hertie (26 stores) part ofKarstadt/Quelle; Kaufhof (74 stores) is part of Metro.Another department store is Breuninger with 14 stores.Variety stores are Kaufhalle (143 outlets and owned byDivaco) and Woolworth (340 outlets). All thesedepartment stores have footwear in their assortment.Mail-order houses: Mail-order houses occupy asignificant place in the German retail market. Total sales in footwear are about € 1.2 billion in 2001.Leading companies are Otto, Quelle, Neckermann andKlingel. The Quelle Group, for many years marketleader in Germany (and Europe), was passed by Otto.The Otto Group is the world’s biggest mail-order house,due to its many foreign activities. Neckermann, thethird mail-order company in Germany, is part of theKarstadt Group.Hyper- and supermarkets: Footwear can increasinglybe found in super- and hypermarkets, like: Metro, Aldi,Edeka/AVA, Tengelmann and Rewe. Sport and leisureshoes are increasingly to be found in grocery stores.Other channels: Street markets and the coffeemultiples Tchibo and Eduscho are other types of retailchannels.

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UK

There are some 3,300 businesses operating 11,000 specialist shoe shops in the UK. The structure offootwear retailing in UK is one of the most concentratedin the world. The market share of footwear specialisedmultiple stores covered more than a third of the market;variety stores decreased in the period under review, butstill account for 11 percent of the retail footwear sales(including market leader Marks & Spencer) and clothingshops a further 10 percent. Independent specialist storeshave a share of only 11 percent, compared with over 40 percent in The Netherlands and Belgium and over 30 percent in Germany.

One of the major development in footwear retailing inthe UK is the shift away from specialised stores toclothing and sports shops.Independent specialised retailers: The Britishfootwear retail market is dominated by multiple chains,with only 10 percent supplied by independent retailers. The market share of the independent retailers was 13 percent in 1996 and 10 percent in 2001. The mainreasons for this fall were: consumers becameparticularly price conscious, resulting in a shift towardsbuying in outlets which were widely regarded asoffering value for money, such as variety stores likeMarks & Spencer; secondly the increasing activities ofclothing retailers. Footwear multiple stores: British Shoe, a subsidiaryof Sears plc, was by far the largest footwear retailer inthe UK with 1,100 branded outlets which includeformula like Dolcis, Cable, Saxone, Manfield, FreemanHardy Willis, Curtess and Shoe Express, but wasbroken up in 1996-1997, and many of its formuladisappeared; others were acquired by competitors.

Table 7. 3 Market shares of retail distribution offootwear in the UK, 1997-2001 (in % of value)

1997 1999 2001

Specialists 46 44 42– Independent retailers 11 11 10– Footwear multiple stores 35 33 32Non-specialists 54 56 58– Variety stores 12 11 12– Clothing shops 9 10 10– Sports shops 12 14 14– Department stores 4 4 4– Hyper- and supermarkets 2 3 4– Mail-order houses 8 8 8– Street markets and other 7 6 6Total 100 100 100

Source: TNS

C&J Clark became the leading retail footwear chainwith around 500 outlets, divided into several formulalike Clarks (380), KShoes (70), Ravel (56) and anumber of concessions. The leading position of C&J Clark is strongest in children’s footwear. Other chains are Stylo plc (864 outlets includingconcessions). Stead & Simpson (472), The Shoe StudioGroup (203), Shoefayre (366), Oliver Group (273),Dolcis (108 outlets and owned by Alexon Group). Clothing shops: Many clothing specialist multiplesadded footwear to their assortment: Top Shop/Top Man(302), Evans (319), Principles (239), Dorothy Perkins(511), Burton Menswear (367), Richards (202), Wallis(219), Warehouse (93), Miss Selfridge (fashionablewear for young women, 146 outlets) and Outfit (12).All belong to the Arcadia Group.Other general clothing multiples (in ranking of sales)are Next (327 outlets), at a distance followed byMatalan (96) and Mackays (271). All 113 outlets ofC&A were closed in 2001. Other women’s clothingstores are (in ranking of sales): Etam (212), New Look(452), Alexon (659) and Monsoon (189). Sports shops: The market share of sports shops(second after footwear multiples) is more important formen’s and children’s than for women’s footwear. The shops offer branded high priced products like Nike,Reebok, Adidas, Kickers, Fila and Ellesse, as well aslow-priced own labels. The most popular items aretrainers and outdoor boots, both items being more usedfor leisure/fashion than for the original function. Important sports multiples are: JJB Sports with 425 outlets, JD sports (133 outlets), Allsports (250 outlets) and the recently started Blacks LeisureGroup with 160 First Sport retail outlets, 266 Milletsand some other chains,.More than 60 percent of the independent sport shops inUK has joined a buying group. The three major buyinggroups are: Intersport, the largest with 280 outlets,Southern Traders Alliance Group (STAG) with 200 outlets and Sport UK with 130 outlets. Department and variety stores: The most importantvariety chain is Marks & Spencer with 308 stores in theUK, in Canada and until the end of 2001 also stores onthe European Continent. Marks & Spencer is Europe’sleading clothing retailer, and an important retailer offoods, home furnishing and footwear. As mentionedbefore all M&S stores on the European Continent werescheduled to be closed in the course of 2001. Other variety chains are Bhs (160 stores), Littlewoods(115) and Woolworth (797). Catalogue showrooms areArgos (448 stores owned by GUS) and Index(Littlewoods) with 153 catalogue showrooms.Department store Debenham also sells footwear besidesclothing in its 90 stores. Other department stores are:House of Fraser (50 stores) and John LewisPartnership(25) . Mail-order houses: Some companies active in themail-order sector (catalogue-based but also direct-mail

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operations) are: GUS/Argos, Littlewoods, Grattan,Freemans and Empire Stores. Grattan and Freemans areowned by the German mail order giant Otto Versand,while French PRP owns Empire Stores. Super-and hypermarkets: Four major players Tesco,Sainsbury, ASDA (part of American Wal-Mart) andSafeway dominate the UK grocery superstore scene, butin general they have not followed the trend of non-fooddevelopment as have, for instance, the leading Frenchhypermarkets. The market share in footwear sales of theleading grocery retailers is quite limited, caused amongother factors by competition from variety stores such asM&S, Bhs and Debenham.

France

Major developments in French footwear retail in theperiod under review were growth in sales of footwearby footwear specialised discount chains at the expenseof independent retailers and hypermarkets. Footwear products are distributed in France by approx. 6,700 retailers, including 42 chains. Footwear distribution channels of less importance inFrance are department and variety stores, clothingshops and mail-order houses. Independent retailersoften buy from French manufacturers, while multiplestores import by themselves, rather than buying fromdomestic manufacturers.

Table 7.4 Market shares of retail distribution offootwear in France (in value, in %),1997-2001

1997 1999 2001

Specialists 61 61 60– Independent retailers 24 23 21– Footwear multiple stores 37 38 39Non-specialists 39 39 40– Department and variety stores 3 3 4– Hyper- and supermarkets 13 11 12– Mail-order houses 3 3 4– Clothing shops 3 3 4– Sport shops 13 13 11– Other channels 4 6 5Total 100 100 100

Source: INSEE

Independent specialised retailers: Independentretailers have grouped themselves into associationswhich are buying organisations or franchise formula. However, these associations are relatively limited inimportance.Footwear multiple stores: There has been a stronggrowth in specialist discount chains catering forcustomers seeking value for money. Three groupsdominate in the field of footwear multiple stores:Groupe André operates with the chain André, sellingmass market products in 242 outlets; discount chainsChaussland with 67 outlets and Halle Chaussures with508 outlets, the chains Minelli (73 outlets), BessonChaussures (55) and Orcade (70) sell medium andupper range products; Groupe Bata, under the nameBata, sells mass market products in 253 outlets; Groupe Eram operates with the largest chain Eram(1,200 outlets) on the mass market, fashion and youngperson’s footwear, the France Arno chain (130 outlets)selling upper-medium range men’s and women’sfootwear, Heyraud (47) selling boutique styles andfancy items and l’Hyper aux Chaussures sellingstandard, good quality footwear at discount prices in120 outlets. Some smaller chains each with 10-20 outlets operate in the boutique style and fancyitems for men, women and children. The formula Gemo(177 outlets) combines standard, good quality footwearand textile products selling at discount prices.Bata and Eram continue to manufacture in France,while only a very small part (less than 10 percent) of Groupe André’s retail sales come from its ownproduction facilities. Other footwear chains in France are Beryl, Bally,Multichauss, San Marina and from GermanySalamander operating with 29 outlets.Clothing shops: Despite the fact that the leadingfootwear retailers Groupe André and Eram also operateon the clothing market, the market share for footwear inclothing stores remained rather low because the formulaspecialises in clothing, with exception of the abovementioned discounter Gemo (Groupe Eram). Footwear sales by the leading clothing chains C&A,Zara and Alain Manoukian remained insignificant. Sports shops: The leading chains of sports shops inFrance are Déclathon (181 outlets), Intersport (413outlets, also operating under the names Sport Expertand Sport Leader), Go Sport (85 outlets), Sport 2000(420 outlets), Technicien du Sport (341 outlets) andCourir (124 outlets). Go Sport and Courir are part ofRallye and will be merged. Most of them are buyinggroups and operate on an international basis. Department and variety stores: The major departmentstore chain in France is Galeries Lafayette (99 stores),also operating under the name Nouvelles Galeries.Another important department store is Printemps (27),owned by PPR (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute). The major food-dominant variety chainstore isCitymarché (Prisunic/Monoprix/Inno) with in total

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338 outlets and owned by Galeries Lafayette for 50 percent, while nearly all 18 variety stores of UK’sMarks & Spencer (18) were closed in 2001.Super-and hypermarkets: The market share infootwear for supermarkets and hypermarkets decreasedin importance in the period under review. The marketshare of hypermarkets was 10 percent in 2001, theshare of supermarkets was 2 percent. Important retailgroups are Casino with a total of 4,550 outlets,of which 112 Géant hypermarkets, 473 Casinosupermarkets and 2,230 Petit Casino conveniencestores; New Carrefour with a total of 1,700 outlets ofwhich 178 Carrefour hypermarkets, 527 Championsupermarkets and 418 Ed’s hard discount stores;Auchan with 940 outlets in total, of which Auchanhypermarkets (120) and Atac supermarkets (229). The German chains Metro, Lidl and Aldi also operateon the French market, with more than 1,100 outletstogether.Mail-order houses: Redcats (PRP) , Trois Suisses (Otto Versand Germany), Camif and Quelle La Source(Quelle Germany) are the leading mail-order houseswith general catalogues. Clothing sales account for 36 percent of total mail-order sales; figures for footwearsales are not available but are very limited and areestimated at around 4 percent.

The Netherlands

The National Shoe Centre (Schoencentrum) of The Netherlands in Nieuwegein (Utrecht) plays apivotal role in shoe distribution in The Netherlands.This is a permanent exhibition centre, where nearly allthe major manufacturers, importers and agents ownshowrooms. It is estimated that 80% of all the footwearranges on the domestic market can be viewed here,and all retailers visit the Centre on a regular basis to “do their shopping”.The Centre organises major expositions in March andSeptember and there are open days several times amonth, when all showrooms must be open. In addition,individual showroom owners are free to show theircollections to customers at any time.The most important wholesalers/importers in The Netherlands are: Eegim, Hengst, Henkelman,Comforta, van Vliet, BP Orces. The address of theAssociation of Wholesale Import and AgencyCompanies of Footwear (Vimagro) is provided forreference in Appendix 4, while addresses of allwholesalers mentioned and many others are mentionedin Appendix 10.There were about 1,600 companies operating with intotal 3,000 stores at the end of 2001 in The Netherlandsfootwear retail branch.Table 7.5 gives an overview of sales of footwear byseveral types of outlets for the period 1997-2001.

The number of non-organized (independent) retailersstabilised in the period under review, despite the strong

competition, but in a favourably growing market.The price consciousness of consumers can be illustratedby the growth of discount outlets. Penetration byforeign retailers in The Netherlands footwear market islimited and came mainly from organisations inneighbouring countries like Germany (buyingcorporations Garant and Ariston/Nord West Ring) andBelgium (Mitiska NV is the holding company ofBrantano Nederland, former names Van Vorst and Toe Shoes and Euro Shoe Unie which owns Bristol andVan Woensel).In recent years, the specialist shoe multiples have lostmarket share to the discount chains. The latter hasdeveloped as a result of the flood of cheap imports fromthe Far East. They dominate the cheap end of thefootwear market and account for 24 percent of totalconsumer expenditure on footwear.

Independent specialised retailers: 45 percent of theindependent specialist shoe shops in The Netherlandsbelongs to one of the three large buying cooperatives(Garant, Ariston/Nord West Ring and Euro Holland),which together account for about 25% of retail shoesales. 55 percent of the independent specialist sportsshops belongs to one of the three buying cooperativesin this field (Garant, Euretco Sport and Intres).Garant is part of the major German-based buying groupGarant Schuh+Mode AG, which has a total of 3,160 members with almost 4,500 shops (excluding thesports and leisure sector) in 14 countries. Besides operating in Germany and The Netherlands(with 530 outlets), Garant is active in, among othercountries, Belgium, France, Austria, Switzerland andthe Scandinavian countries. The shoe division of Euretco was taken over by Garantat the beginning of 1998 and continued to operate underthe name Promenade; it operates nowadays with 80 outlets. Other formula of Garant in The Netherlands

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are Tiptoo (19 outlets) and Podo Linéa (65 outlets).Euro Holland operates in the mid and luxury segmentswith 105 outlets. There are also some franchise organisations forfootwear, such as Nimco (24 outlets) and Nelson (25).

Footwear multiple stores: The leading footwearretailer is Hoogenbosch (owned by Macintosh Retailgroup) with 220 outlets and includes the followingchains for specific target consumer groups in the middleand upper segments: Dolcis (90 outlets), Invito (34),Manfield (61), Pro Sport (10) and Olympus (sports:10 and shoes: 15). Van Haren (owned by Deichmann Schuhe from Essen,Germany) has 110 stores under the same name andoperates just like Van Woensel (32), Nelson (25) andEcco-Shop (40) in the lower segments of the market.The following multiple chains operate in the higher andmedium price segments: Cinderella (19 outlets),Durlinger (21), Sacha Shoes (36), Ziengs (64) and Van Vorst. (18). Besides these footwear multiples,56 small chains operate with a total of 306 outlets.Footwear discount chains: Discounters have a broadassortment of all kinds of footwear, sports, leisure andcasual clothing and accessories on the one side, andexpanded with sports hardware, camping articles etc. on the other side. In these lower-priced segments,we see an enormous rise in the number of outlets,as shown in the following table.

Scapino was sold by Vendex/KBB in 2001, togetherwith some other chains, to a Dutch investmentcompany. Scapino is a discount chain with sports-,leisure- and casual wear, sports hardware etc. just likeBristol and operates with 16 outlets in Belgium and 11 in Germany. Schoenenreus became the market leaderin 1997 with the take over of Schoenexpres and reachedthe same number of outlets as Scapino in 2001. The assortment offered by Schoenenreus and MassaMode consists mainly of footwear and clothing.Sports shops: Sport speciality shops are often membersof buying organisations with (often internationally)operating selling formula, like Intersport, Fairplay andSport 2000. These speciality shops and the sports

Table 7.5 Market shares of footwear by type ofretailers in The Netherlands, 1997-2001 (in % of value)

1997 1999 2001

Specialists 82 82 82– Independent retailers 42 41 41– Footwear multiple stores 18 18 17– Footwear discount chains 22 23 24Non-specialists 18 18 18– Department and variety stores 3 3 3– Clothing shops 2 2 3– Sports shops 8 8 7– Other outlets 4 5 5Total 100 100 100

Source: EIM and HBD

Table 7.6 Development in major footwear discountchains in The Netherlands, 1997-2001

1997 1999 2001

Schoenenreus 97 172 175Schoenexpres 73 0 0Scapino 150 168 175Bristol 74 88 88Massa Schoen en Mode 38 43 44Total 432 471 482

specialists multiples remained by far the leadingdistributors of sportswear with a market share (in termsof value) of 40 percent, followed by department storeswith 10 percent.

Specialised footwear chains are Foot Locker (40) andOlympus Shoes (15). The following chains operate withsport articles, including clothing and footwear on theDutch market: Aktie Sport (75 outlets); Coach (55outlets), Perry Sport (40) and Favoriet Sport (32).Due to the increase in popularity of sports and thefashion for sports, specialist shops have gained a shareof the footwear market. There are 900-1,000 sportsshops selling shoes, mainly expensive branded rangesfor active sports.Clothing stores: More and more clothing retailers havebegun selling shoes and boots as an accessory to theirmain ranges. Some of them have their own buyingdepartment (like C&A), other retailers have footwear intheir assortment of the same brand as the fashion sold,like Diesel, Esprit, Mexx, Marc O’ Polo, Hugo Bossetc. Department and variety stores: The major retailgroup in The Netherlands is Vendex/KBB. The leadingdepartment stores V&D (70 stores) and De Bijenkorf(10) and variety store Hema (254 both own branchesand franchisees) are part of this holding company.Hema operates also in Belgium. V&D operates in the middle of the market; De Bijenkorf stocks high-quality, stylish andappropriately priced products and in variety storeHema, all articles are sold under a private label. The assortment of footwear in De Bijenkorf includesprivate labels as well as the better brand labels.V&D operates in the middle of the market, while Hemahas good quality at lower prices (value-for-moneyconcept). The assortment of footwear at Hema does notinclude leather footwear. Other: The relevant mail-order catalogues areWehkamp, Otto, Neckermann and La Redoute, but theirmarket share in footwear is limited. A more importantpart of this category is taken by the street vendors. They are involved in clearing up stocks fromwholesalers and retailers and are not themselvesinvolved in importing. Another part in this category isMakro (wholesaler with retail activities).

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Organisation Formula Total outlets Total outlets Total outletsend 1997 end 1999 end 2001

Garant Fairplay International Sports 180 210 210Euretco Sport Sport 2000 95 110 105

Sportpoint 108 89 80Runnersworld 11 14 14

Intres Intersport 139 133 126GOS 86 115 130

Total 619 671 665

Italy

Major developments in the Italian footwear retail tradein the period under review were growth in sales by non-specialists like hypermarkets and by departmentand variety stores to the detriment of independentretailers. It is expected that this development will becontinued in the coming years, while an increase ofmultiples is also expected. Manufacturers of classic and exclusive, higher-pricedfootwear sell mainly directly to retailers or throughagents. Wholesalers play an important role indistribution and are generally used by manufacturers ofcheaper, mass-market and standardised products.Big retail chains like the Coin Group and theRinascente Group buy directly from producers but alsoimport by themselves.

Independent specialised retailers: Specialistsdominate the Italian footwear retail sector, however,the share of independent specialists is neverthelessdecreasing. This is due to the growth of specialisedmultiples, department/variety stores and hypermarkets. The decreasing, but still important, market share of

Table 7.7 Market shares of retail distribution offootwear in Italy (in % of value),1998-2001

1998 1999 2000 2001

Specialists 63 62 62 62– Independent retailers 56 54 54 53– Footwear multiples 7 8 8 9Non-specialists 37 38 38 38– Department/variety stores 5 6 6 6– Clothing shops 5 4 4 5– Sports shops 10 10 9 9– Hyper- and supermarkets 6 7 7 7– Mail-order houses 0 0 0 0– Street markets 7 7 8 7– Other 4 4 4 4Total 100 100 100 100

Source: ANCI

independent retailers was realised by around 13,000 companies.Footwear multiple stores: The number of specialisedmultiples is very limited in Italy. The largest chain isCompar Bata (184 outlets) owned by Bata Canada,other chains are Spatafora with 80 and Rosetti with 16 stores.Clothing stores: Many specialist clothing shops alsosell footwear in Italy, although shoe shops rarely sellapparel. Sports shops: The two major buying groups are:Intersport, the largest with around 300 outlets andSelezione Sport with 45 outlets. Important sportsmultiples are: Giacomelli Sport with 65 outlets, BigGym/Sport Discount (65) and Sergio Tacchini (110).The latter combines sports goods and outdoor clothing.Giacomelli Sport is a fast growing and internationallyoperating chain with over 100 megastores in many Westand East European countries. Sports chains from abroadcome from France Déclathon (7) and from the USAFootlocker (39). Department and variety stores: The major departmentstores in Italy are Coin (80 stores) and La Rinascenta(15). The Coin Gruppo owns the leading variety storesLa Standa (275) and Oviesse (110). Gruppo Rinascentacovers variety store Upim (330). Super-and hypermarkets: Hypermarkets grew innumber, as did the clothing and footwear sales by thesechannels. The most important hypermarket chains areCitta Mercato, Rinascente, Joyland and Auchan.Mail-order houses: The Italian mail-order marketremains relatively undeveloped, primarily due toproblems with distribution and the generally poor postaldelivery service. The leading mail-order company, withsales in footwear besides clothing and general goods,is Postalmarket.

7.2 Distribution channels for developingcountries

Distribution channels in the selected markets within theEU are different and each market has its own preferreddistribution system. In countries like The Netherlandsand Belgium, footwear is mainly distributed byspecialised retailers (independents and multiple stores).The Netherlands and France have a high concentrationof distribution by multiple stores. It has to be noted thatthe market share of multiples in The Netherlandsconsisted for more than half of the sales by footweardiscounters. In France, sports shops and hypermarketshave high market shares, resulting in a relatively lowshare for independent retailers. The southern memberstates Portugal, Italy and Spain have high market sharesfor independent retailers.

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The market share of department and variety stores inthe UK is rather high (16%), including market leaderMarks & Spencer. Around 45 percent of the independent retailers belongto a buying group in Germany and The Netherlands.The large-scaled German buying groups (Garant,ANWR) expanded their activities to many otherEuropean countries, in particular to France and The Netherlands. In the field of sports goods, includingfootwear, the degree of organisation is even moreimportant. Buying and selling formula like Fairplay,Intersport, Sport 2000 are active in almost all EUcountries. Both systems obviously have variousadvantages for the retailers, the most important ofwhich is a reduction in costs by centralising thefunctions of the collection department, buying andlogistics. The buying departments of large retail outletsand the central buying organisations mainly purchasetheir goods directly from the manufacturer/exporter.

Unorganised independent retailers, with decreasingmarket shares in most of the EU countries, buy directlyfrom local or near-by manufacturers or agentsrepresenting these manufacturers, as well as fromwholesalers/importers.Most independent retailers are organised via franchise,selling formula or buying groups. These organisationscan be considered as multiple stores or chains. The original function of the buying groups wasreduction in costs by centralising buying and logistics.More and more selling formula for the members arebeing developed and the successful ones have beenexploited as franchising activities. In particular inGermany and The Netherlands, buying groups play asignificant role for specialised independent retailers.The buying policy of buying groups becomes more andmore similar to that of multiple stores.With regard to imports from outside Europe,wholesalers/importers, large multiples and buyingcooperatives mainly act as contractors. They do notseek own designs and collections from the foreignmanufacturer but rather competitive price levels andstandards of workmanship. The importer then specifiesthe models, materials, seasonal designs and colours, andthe brands or fantasy labels to be used. Frequently,the importer will provide the appropriate lasts to beused or copied, as well as technical advice and qualitycontrol. Some importers have their own local offices inthe Far East and, in any case, their executives spend alot of time at the supplier factories.It should be noted that importers invest considerably inthe development of their contract producer to enable thefactory to supply merchandise suitable for the Europeanmarket. They therefore do not change suppliersfrequently.

8.1 MarginsAs a rule, companies which import from developingcountries are looking for low-priced merchandise. The margins at the various different levels ofdistribution are influenced by six factors and aredifferent for each product/market combination. These factors are:• degree of risk; • volume of business; • functions or marketing services rendered; • general economic conditions (booming or depressed

business); • competition, and • exclusiveness.

High-risk, low-volume, service-intensive productsrequire different margins to low-risk, high-volumestandard products. It is impossible to draw up aschedule of actual margins for each and everyproduct/market combination. Even within the same typeof combination, different importers employ differentmargins, due to variation in economic conditions.The effect of low, medium and high margins onconsumer end price, based on one CIF (costs,insurance, freight) price for three different products,

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is shown in table 8.1. A multiplier of between 2.6 and 3.1 on the manufacturer’s or importer’s price should beused to calculate an appropriate final consumer price.Caused by factors like increasing competition at alllevels in the distribution columln, further concentrationand integration, the factor decreased considerably in thelast decade. Elimination of the wholesaler for instancecan lead to a somewhat lower multiplier of 2.4-2.9 usedby footwear multiples, department and variety storesand mail order companies.

Table 8.2 illustrates the percentages calculated at eachlevel of the distribution column, based on a consumerprice of 100 for three products.Wholesalers and other importers base their costing on a CIF basis and apply their margins. In other words thelanded cost for the importer is the FOB (free on board)cost plus the cost of transportation to the importer’swarehouse, including any import duty if applicable. If exporters find that their profit margins are too low,they should look at their costing and find methods toreduce or control costs to bring margins into line. If thisis not possible, the export market should be abandoned.

This means that exporters’ CIF prices should be in therange of 32-40 percent of the final consumer price.In absolute terms, it is more attractive for an exporter tooperate in the medium and high market.Margins vary greatly according to both type of productand retail channel. Thus the average footwear retailermarks goods up by 100 percent of the buying price,with selected goods retailing up to 150 percent higherthan buying prices. In grocery stores (supermarkets andhypermarkets), footwear, mainly with uppers of rubber,plastic or textiles, achieves a gross margin of 20-30 percent of the retail selling price. This figure ishighly attractive compared with the typical profitmargin on food and other grocery lines.

8 PRICES AND MARGINS

Table 8.1 Calculation schedule: margins

Low Medium High

CIF Rotterdam/Amsterdam 100 100 100Import duties * * *Charges on CIF basis:– handling charges, transport/insurance and banking services 6 6 6

106 106 106Wholesaler’s margin (30/35/40%) 32 37 42

138 143 148Retailer’s margin (55/65/75%) 76 93 111– net selling price 214 236 259Value Added Tax (VAT) (19% of net selling price **) 41 45 49– gross selling price (consumer price) 255 281 308

RATIO CIF/CONSUMER PRICE: 2.6 2.8 3.1

*) 0, 2.4, 2.8, 3.5, 4.0, 4.9, 5.0, 5.6, 7.0, 8.0, 11.9 and17.0 percent of CIF value

**) In practice, footwear retailers calculate a 80-110%mark-up, incl. VAT and an important part of theassortment has been priced-off. In this calculation theVAT tariff valid for The Netherlands is used, but notethat this tariff varies per EU country.

Table 8.2 Calculation schedule: margins throughthe distribution

Low Medium High

Consumer price 100 100 100VAT (19% of net selling price) 16 16 16Net selling price 84 84 84Retailer’s margin (55/65/75) 30 33 36

54 51 48Wholesaler’s margin (30/35/40) 12 13 14

42 38 34Charges 2 2 2CIF prices 40 36 32

8.2 PricesThe market is intensively competitive and prices varywidely according to the product and type of outlet.Below, an overview is given of (average) retail prices inThe Netherlands. Retail prices include VAT (19%).

8.3 Sources of price information

Consumer pricesTravelling to the centres of style gives a comprehensiveview of fashion trends and prices. Window shopping inEuropean cities like London, Düsseldorf, Paris, Milanand to a lesser degree, Amsterdam will provide a goodinsight. Another indication of prices of similar shoes being soldin the major EU countries can be formed by browsingthrough the catalogues of mail-order houses and

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department stores, which can be found on Internet. For instance in The Netherlands: Neckermann(http://www.neck.nl) and Wehkamp(http://www.wehkamp.nl); in Germany: Neckermann(http://www.neck.de) and Otto (http://www.otto.de) andin France: La Redoute (http://www.laredoute.fr). All prices in these catalogues are given in euros (€).Another possibility is the e-mail shop of Deichmann(one of the leading German footwear retailers) with anassortment of more than 1,000 shoe models(http://www.eshoes.com)

Trade pricesObserving prices quoted at trade shows providesanother possibility to gather information. Trade fairs arediscussed in the relevant chapter of the EU strategicmarketing guide.

Table 8.3 Retail prices for some selected footwear items in The Netherlands, 2001

Product Material Height Height Sizes Colours Prices in €heel in cm leg in cm

Women:– mule Leather 8 - 5 (36–41) 2: bordeaux, black 63.51– pump Artificial leather 5/9 - 5 (4 –8) 3: black, navy, camel 22.67/40.82– ankle-boot Artificial leather 9 13 5 (36-41) 2: black, bronze 54.43– calf-boot Leather 7 30 5 (36–41) 1: black 84.90-108.88– ankle-boot Suede 10 13 6 (3-8) 2: black, camel 54.43– calf-/knee-length boots Suede - 30/40 7 (36-42) 3: beige, black, brown 63.51/72.58– knee-length boot Artificial leather 5 36 6 (36-41) 3: lack-, suede-, leather-look 54.43– sneaker Leather - - 6 (36-41) 3: bordeaux, black, bronze 44.90– moccasin Nubuck leather - - 6 (3-8) 4: black, navy, beige, natural 40.82– sandals Plastic - - 6 (3-8) 2: black/white, orange/red. 27.20– slingback Satin 8 - 6 (3-8) 3: ivory, black, lila 31.74– outdoor-slippers Plastic - - 6 (3-8) 3: white, black, rose 13.59-27.20– indoor slippers Textile - - 7 (36-42) several 18.13-31.74Men:– brogue lace-shoe 1) Leather - - 6 (6–11) 1: black 36.28

9 (7-11) 2: black and brown. 90.73– lace-shoe 2) Leather - - 6 (6–11) 1: black 31.74- 85.76– lace-shoe Suede - - 7 (40-46) 2: black, brown 36.28– ankle-boot (laces) Leather - 14 7 (40-46) 2: black, brown 36.28-58.97– ankle-boot (laces) Suede or leather - 13 7 (40-46) 2: black, brown 40.82– loafer 2) Leather - - 5 (7-11) 1: black 36.28-90.30

1) resp brandless and branded (Berkelmans) 2) resp. brandless and branded (Wrangler)

Opportunities in EU major marketsDemographic developments and a (weak) price inflationare the main factors of a slightly growing footwearmarket in Germany. Many factors like economiclimitations (consumer spending in Germany is lowcompared to other major EU countries), intensive pricecompetition (increasing market shares for non-specialistretailers), growing imports from low-cost countries(direct imports as well as production abroad under theregime of German manufacturers) etc. influenced thefootwear market. The weak position of footwear in consumer expenditurein Germany will recover, according to the forecasts.The improved outlook for the German economy as awhole is expected to support consumer spending onfootwear and growth is expected of around 1.5 percentper year for the coming period until 2006. There hasbeen an increased focus on all varieties of casual andhealth/comfort footwear, which will be continued forthe coming years.

Prices of footwear in the UK declined much more inthe last decade than in other EU countries. In thecoming period 2003-2006 footwear expenditure isexpected to increase by about 2 percent per annum.Developments in retailing (British Shoe, M&S, C&A)in the UK are symptoms of a weak market. A furtherpolarisation is expected, resulting in more pricecompetition in the form of discounting.

Consumption of footwear in France is expected togrow in line with the European average during the next 5 years. Increasing imports, mainly from low-wagecountries have led to serious competition for Frenchproducts. This has further aggravated the concentrationprocess in footwear retail, which is already rather highin France.

The retail market remained very fragmented in Italy,with a dominant role for independent specialists. Besides increased imports of parts of footwear for finalassembly in the Italian industry and increased outwardprocessing trade, the imports of ready-to-wear itemsfrom developing countries increased too. There is an intensive co-operation between independentunorganised retailers and domestic manufacturers,therefore other channels in retail and wholesale canpresent opportunities for exporters. The Italian market will grow more or less in line withthe EU average, too in the coming years.

Footwear expenditure in The Netherlands was verylow in the last two decades. A signal of recovery wasgiven in 1997, followed by strong increases in recentyears. It is anticipated that the market will be saturated

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in 2002. The situation is worsening for independentretailers, but multiples in the mid-segments also metstrong competition from footwear discount chains.These chains are increasing their retail space. Just likein Germany, the role of leisure and casual footwear willremain dominant.

Demand for footwear in the EU will continue toincrease in the coming years. The number of pairs ofshoes purchased per head of population will continue torise. In order to satisfy the requirements of importingEuropean companies, exporters in developing countrieswill be faced with increased demands for higher qualityand environmentally friendly products. With the correctstrategy and carefully thought out development plan,there is no reason why these challenges cannot be met.

Advice to exportersThe importers’ – wholesalers and the organised retailers – desired time between buying and selling hasto be shorter. This shorter lead time is necessary tomeet the demands set by rapidly changing fashions. Effective competition by developing countries requiresknowledge of the legal, technical, quality and fashionrequirements. They have to monitor and understanddevelopments in the target countries and to ensure thatquality requirements are strictly met. Some experts are of the opinion that instead ofconcentrating on increasing volumes, developingcountries should shift production profiles to higher-value footwear products. Another point of view,however, suggests to specialise based on experience andto try to obtain a higher degree of efficiency inproduction. It is evident that both production strategieshave to be combined with the recommendationsmentioned earlier. A start, which involves limited risks and is chosen bythe majority of exporters in developing countries, is totry to acquire fixed orders for products specified by theclient. The latter is at home in his market and knows allthe “ins and outs” of his permanently changing marketplace.As mentioned above, exporters in the footwear sectorare confronted with many aspects like sizing,packaging, environmental aspects, resulting in a lot oftechnical requirements, added to which are aspects ofdesign, fashionability, market developments etc. For that reason, co-operation in a variety of formsbetween importer and exporter can be necessary. The most important determining factors for exportersoperating on this basis are the combination of price,product quality and reliability of deliveries and deliverytimes. More further-reaching forms of potential co-operation are joint ventures and co-makershipagreements

9 OPPORTUNITIES FOR DEVELOPING COUNTRY EXPORTERS

Companies in developing countries, which arecontinually adapting new technologies and have theadvantage of low production costs, are at an advantage.Another advantage applies to exporters in economicallyand politically stable developing countries. The keen competition on the footwear market willsteadily increase and this leads to further opportunitiesfor exporters in low-cost countries.The role of wholesalers/importers will remain stable,while the role of footwear multiples and, to a lesserdegree, buying groups or franchise formula will slightlyincrease in the coming years. The buying policies ofsuper- and hypermarkets vary from direct imports bythe internationally operating chains to buying fromwholesalers/importers.

The CBI Strategic Marketing Guide ’Footwear’familiarises (potential) exporters with the requirementsof the EU footwear market, offers a market opportunityanalysis to determine suitable sales channels and achecklist for building up a trading link.

57

HS Code Product description

6401.10.100 Waterproof footwear with steel toe-cap, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber,not stitched together.

6401.10.900 Waterproof footwear with steel toe-cap, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic,not stitched together.

6401.91.100 Other waterproof footwear, covering the knee, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber,not stitched together.

6401.91.900 Other waterproof footwear, covering the knee, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic,not stitched together.

6401.92.100 Other waterproof footwear, not covering the ankle or knee, outer sole of rubber or plastic,upper of rubber, not stitched together.

6401.92.900 Other waterproof footwear, not covering the ankle or knee, outer sole of rubber or plastic,upper of plastic, not stitched together.

6401.99.100 Other waterproof footwear, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber, not stitched together. 6401.99.900 Other waterproof footwear, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic, not stitched together.

6402.12.100 Ski boots, outer sole and upper of rubber or plastic.6402.12.900 Snowboard boots, outer sole and upper of rubber or plastic.6402.19.000 Other sports footwear, outer sole and upper of rubber or plastic.6402.20.000 Footwear, outer and upper of rubber or plastic, upper of straps attached to the sole with plugs.6402.30.000 Footwear, incorporating a protective metal toe-cap with uppers of rubber, with outer soles of

rubber or plastic.6402.91.000 Other footwear, covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber.6402.99.100 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber.6402.99.310 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic,

with vamp of straps or with pieces cut out, heel including sole more than 3 cm.6402.99.390 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic,

with vamp of straps or with pieces cut out, heel including sole 3 cm or less.6402.99.500 Slippers and other indoor shoes, not covering the ankle, outer sole and upper of rubber or plastic.6402.99.910 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, plastic cover,

inner sole less than 24 cm.6402.99.930 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic,

inner sole 24 cm or more.6402.99.960 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of plastic, outer sole of rubber or plastic,

inner sole 24 cm or more, for men.6402.99.980 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber of plastic, upper of plastic,

inner sole 24 cm or more, for women.

6403.12.000 Ski-footwear and snowboard boots, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or (synthetic)leather.

6403.19.000 Other sports footwear, upper of leather, outer of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather.6403.20.000 Footwear, upper of leather straps across the instep or around the big toe, outer sole of leather.6403.30.000 Footwear, wooden basis, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather,

without inner sole or steel toe-cap.6403.40.000 Footwear, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather, with steel toecap6403.51.110 Footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole

less than 24 cm.6403.51.150 Footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole

24 cm or more, for men.6403.51.190 Footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole

24 cm or more, for women.6403.51.910 Other footwear, covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole less than 24 cm.

58

APPENDIX 1 DETAILED CLASSIFICATION OF FOOTWEAR, BY HARMONISED SYSTEM CODE

6403.51.950 Other footwear, covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more,for men.

6403.51.990 Other footwear, covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more,for women.

6403.59.110 Footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, with vamp of straps or with piecescut out, heel including soles more than 3 cm.

6403.59.310 Footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, with vamp of straps or with piecescut out, inner sole less than 24 cm, heel including soles 3 cm or less.

6403.59.350 Footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, with v amp of straps or with piecescut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less, for men.

6403.59.390 Footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, with vamp of straps or with piecescut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less, for women.

6403.59.500 Slippers and other indoor shoes, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather.6403.59.910 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole less than 24 cm.6403.59.950 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more,

for men.6403.59.990 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or less,

for women.6403.91.110 Other footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber,

plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole less than 24 cm.6403.91.130 Other footwear, with outer soles of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, with uppers of leather,

covering the ankle but under the calf, inner sole 24 cm or more.6403.91.160 Other footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper of leather, outer of rubber, plastic or

synthetic leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men.6403.91.180 Other footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber,

plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for women.6403.91.910 Other footwear, covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather,

inner sole less than 24 cm.6403.91.930 Other footwear, covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, upper of leather,

inner sole 24 cm or more6403.91.960 Other footwear, covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, upper of leather,

inner sole 24 cm or more, for men.6403.91.980 Other footwear, covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, upper of leather,

inner sole 24 cm or more, for women.6403.99.110 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic

leather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, heel including soles more than 3 cm.6403.99.310 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic

leather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, inner sole less than 24 cm, heel including soles 3 cmor less.

6403.99.330 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or syntheticleather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less.

6403.99.360 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or syntheticleather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less, for men.

6403.99.380 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or syntheticleather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less, for women.

6403.99.500 Slippers and other indoor shoes, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber plasticor synthetic leather.

6403.99.910 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or syntheticleather, inner sole less than 24 cm.

6403.99.930 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or syntheticleather, inner sole 24 cm or more.

6403.99.960 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or syntheticleather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men.

6403.99.980 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or syntheticleather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for women.

59

6404.11.000 Sports footwear, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of textile.6404.19.100 Slippers and other indoor shoes, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of textile.6404.19.900 Other footwear, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of textile.6404.20.100 Slippers and other indoor shoes, outer sole of (synthetic) leather, upper of textile.6404.20.900 Other footwear, outer sole of (synthetic) leather, upper of textile.

6405.10.100 Footwear, upper of (synthetic) leather, outer sole of wood or cork.6405.10.900 Footwear, upper of (synthetic) leather, outer sole of other material.6405.20.100 Footwear, upper of textile, outer sole of wood or cork.6405.20.910 Slippers and other indoor shoes, upper of textile, outer sole of other material.6405.20.990 Other footwear, upper of textile, outer sole of other material.6405.90.100 Other footwear upper of other material, outer sole of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather.6405.90.900 Other footwear, upper and outer sole of other material.

6406.10.110 Leather uppers, whether or not attached to soles other than outer soles.6406.10.190 Parts of leather uppers (excl. stiffeners).6406.10.900 Uppers, whether or not attached to soles other than outer soles and parts thereof.6406.20.100 Outer soles and heels of rubber.6406.20.900 Outer soles and heels of plastic.6406.91.000 Parts of footwear, of wood.6406.99.100 Gaiters, leggings and similar articles and parts thereof.6406.99.300 Assemblies of uppers affixed to inner soles or to other sole components.6406.99.500 Removable in-soles, heel cushions and other removable accessories.6406.99.600 Outer soles of shoes, of leather or composition leather.6406.99.800 Other parts of footwear.

60

Table 2.1 Imports of footwear into EU in volume and value, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000mln mln mln mln mln mln mln mln

pairs US$ pairs US$ euro € pairs US$ euro €

Waterproof footwear:– safety 2.7 31 2.7 31 29 2.7 26 28– outdoor 21.8 143 25.3 145 137 24.4 116 126

24.5 174 26.8 176 166 27.1 142 154Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber:– sports 40.4 523 42.0 518 487 45.3 504 546– safety 0.2 4 0.2 4 4 0.4 6 7– slippers/indoor 13.3 41 12.5 44 41 11.0 35 38– outdoor 256.8 1,692 284.7 1,701 1,597 314.4 1,908 2,072

310.7 2,260 338.1 2,267 2,129 371.1 2,453 2,663Footwear with uppers of leather:– sports 36.5 711 35.8 635 596 39.7 621 674– safety 16.9 337 19.7 366 344 24.8 378 410slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 4.4 24 3.5 21 20 3.0 16 17– rubber or plastic 10.6 83 11.8 91 85 12.9 95 103outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– leather 74.1 1,767 76.8 1,633 1,533 70.3 1,462 1,586– rubber, plastic, synth. leather 475.5 7,851 534.9 8,327 7,819 562.9 7,882 8,549– other 25.3 195 19.9 183 172 15.4 133 145

643.3 10,968 702.4 11,256 10,569 729.0 10,587 11,484

Footwear with uppers of textiles:– sports 115.1 1,462 112.6 1,400 1315 109.4 1,359 1,474slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 2.5 11 3.0 11 11 2.4 10 10– rubber or plastic 73.2 240 79.7 234 219 88.9 229 248– other outer soles 95.0 168 93.8 165 155 93.4 163 177outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– rubber or plastic 141.1 745 157.6 842 791 157.2 800 867– leather 8.8 98 5.3 84 79 4.3 64 69– other 26.4 72 23.2 60 56 13.0 46 50

462.1 2,796 475.2 2,796 2,626 468.6 2,671 2,895

Footwear with other uppers 22.9 107 30.1 132 124 24.0 104 113Parts of footwear 9.3 2,099 6.8 2,059 1,932 7.5 1,898 2,058

Total imports of footwear 1472.8 18,404 1581.9 18,686 17,546 1627.3 17,855 19,367Of which from:Extra EU 821.8 7,827 916.7 8,338 7,830 967.1 8,485 9,213Developing countries 661.0 5,574 731.1 5,881 5,523 785.0 6,207 6,732

Source: Eurostat

61

APPENDIX 2 DETAILED IMPORT AND EXPORT STATISTICS OFFOOTWEAR BY PRODUCT TYPE AND AREA OFORIGIN INTO THE EU, 1998-2000

Table 2.2 Imports of total footwear into EU by area of origin, 1998-2000



From other EU countries– Italy 244 3,745 244 3,505 3,291 240 2,964 3,215– Portugal 83 1,477 81 1,445 1,357 76 1,232 1,336– Spain 96 1,253 103 1,219 1,145 93 1,022 1,108– The Netherlands 55 674 56 742 697 67 866 939– Belgium 56 1,132 61 1,129 1,060 62 1,156 1,254– other EU countries 117 2,296 120 2,307 2,166 122 2,114 2,302Total intra-EU 651 11,845 665 10,348 9,716 660 9,354 10,154From developing countries:– Asia

– China 272 1,261 304 1,470 1,380 324 1,661 1,802– Vietnam 147 967 178 1,366 1,283 190 1,509 1,637– Indonesia 67 588 65 615 577 63 616 668– India 24 377 29 456 428 30 444 481– Thailand 38 321 34 316 297 34 286 310– Macao 6 66 9 89 84 15 133 144– Cambodia 3 13 6 37 35 11 63 68– other 41 763 41 347 326 44 326 355– Mediterranean – Tunisia 8 230 11 280 263 14 295 320– Morocco 11 145 12 171 161 13 162 175– other 7 104 6 61 57 9 52 59

– Central & Eastern Europe– Croatia 8 155 7 154 145 7 151 164– Slovenia 4 69 3 65 61 2 53 57– Bosnia/Herzegovina 2 45 3 49 46 4 63 69– other 8 223 8 124 117 10 128 141

– Central & South America– Brazil 12 189 13 210 197 13 209 227– Mexico 1 19 1 14 13 0 8 9– other 1 40 0 12 11 1 10 11

– Other 3 44 4 45 42 5 31 35Total developing countries 661 5,574 731 5,881 5,523 785 6,200 6,732From other countries:– Western Europe

– Switzerland 2 68 2 64 60 3 69 75– other 0 15 0 5 5 0 8 9

– Central & Eastern Europe– Romania 38 565 45 704 661 53 794 862– Hungary 13 275 14 312 293 15 292 317– Poland 14 155 17 169 159 15 144 156– Slovakia 9 143 10 186 175 13 211 228– other 25 516 24 393 369 23 323 352

– North America– USA 5 101 5 94 88 4 82 89– other 0 20 1 11 10 0 7 8

– Asia– Taiwan 38 210 44 247 232 43 204 221– Hong Kong 14 114 19 230 216 11 121 131

– other 3 68 5 37 35 2 26 28– Other 0 3 0 4 4 0 4 5Total other countries 161 2,253 186 2,457 2,307 182 2,285 2,481

Total 1,473 18,404 1,582 18,686 17,546 1,627 17,855 19,367

Source: Eurostat

62

Table 2.3 Exports of footwear by EU in volume and value, 1998-2000



Waterproof footwear:– safety 2.0 31 2.1 30 28 2.6 30 33– outdoor 20.3 143 23.2 136 128 21.2 115 125

22.3 174 25.3 166 156 23.8 145 158Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber:– sports 22.1 485 22.8 528 496 21.2 503 546– safety 0.4 7 0.3 5 5 0.4 5 5– slippers/indoor 11.1 46 10.0 46 43 10.9 38 42– outdoor 109.5 989 104.2 919 863 111.0 1,000 1,085

143.1 1,527 137.3 1,498 1,407 143.5 1,546 1,678Footwear with uppers of leather:– sports 23.1 609 23.2 559 525 25.2 542 588– safety 16.2 361 15.7 341 320 18.0 332 361slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 4.5 26 4.1 27 25 4.7 24 26– rubber or plastic 9.8 81 8.5 77 72 8.7 73 80outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– leather 152.9 4,230 139.0 3,721 3,494 137.7 3,615 3,921– rubber, plastic, synth. leather 363.2 7,469 379.0 7,473 7,017 360.0 6,849 7,429– other 15.0 187 10.9 153 144 9.0 118 128

584.7 12,963 580.4 12,351 11,597 563.3 11,553 12,533

Footwear with uppers of textiles:– sports 47.3 869 47.0 855 803 41.8 723 782slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 1.6 12 2.1 14 13 1.3 11 12– rubber or plastic 42.8 179 40.4 158 148 40.6 140 152– other outer soles 17.5 53 16.7 49 46 19.5 48 52outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– rubber or plastic 54.5 454 57.5 494 464 56.2 428 464– leather 8.7 199 9.6 199 187 8.6 156 169– other 12.3 68 10.9 55 52 9.0 54 58

184.7 1,834 184.2 1,824 1,713 177.0 1,560 1,692

Footwear with other uppers 30.2 232 29.2 201 189 26.3 177 192Parts of footwear 2.0 1,626 2.2 1,604 1,505 2.4 1,557 1,684

Total exports of footwear 967.0 18,357 958.6 17,644 16,567 936.3 16,538 17,937of which:Outside the EU 264.7 6,355 238.9 5,805 5,458 246.9 5,983 6,488

Source: Eurostat

63

Table 3.1 Imports of footwear into Germany in volume and value, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro €

pairs ’000 pairs ’000 ’000 pairs ’000 ’000

Waterproof footwear:– safety 504 5,809 511 5,034 4,723 399 3,533 3,832– outdoor 6,470 34,070 8,412 40,037 37,566 7,296 28,973 31,426Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber:– sports 3,348 72,937 3,319 60,900 57,141 3,819 62,685 67,993– safety 13 209 7 211 198 27 362 393– slippers/indoor 3,905 13,662 4,733 16,776 15,741 3,219 11,489 12,462– outdoor 58,344 409,049 66,818 419,368 393,484 77,926 487,890 529,201Footwear with uppers of leather:– sports 5,502 130,406 4,143 94,720 88,874 4,799 86,994 94,360– safety 5,361 111,324 5,816 108,295 101,611 5,989 96,171 104,314slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 1,267 8,206 951 6,716 6,302 816 4,825 5,234– rubber or plastic 4,737 405,063 4,489 341,613 320,529 3,975 261,021 283,122Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– leather 14,730 36,076 13,529 35,388 33,204 10,545 28,886 31,332– rubber, plastic, synth. leather 149,271 2373,254 160,095 2430,360 2280,358 148,838 2103,339 2281,435– other 4,187 49,124 2,641 36,401 34,155 1,836 15,887 17,232Footwear with uppers of textiles:– sports 18,398 220,886 16,050 173,725 163,003 13,342 147,354 159,831slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 74 849 274 1,043 979 253 783 850– rubber or plastic 18,289 78,886 17947 70,553 66,198 17,454 60,166 65,260– other outer soles 10,104 22,375 11670 25,368 23,800 11,499 23,798 25,813Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– rubber or plastic 25,024 162,942 28179 196,238 184,126 30,590 190,740 206,891– leather 579 11,349 454 9,073 8,513 663 8,840 9,589– other 2,928 8,811 2238 6,722 6,307 1,961 4,985 5,407Footwear with other uppers 3,700 16,473 5444 27,201 25,523 3,577 13,322 14,450Parts of footwear 1,401 408,514 1046 396,971 372,470 1,697 359,892 390,363

Total imports of footwear 338,136 4580,276 358,766 4502,713 4224,805 350,520 4001,935 4340,790Of whichExtra-EU 162,631 1777,541 183,852 1832,526 1720,682 188,161 1777,444 1927,939Developing countries 122,132 1194,079 139,935 1232,565 1157,338 146,575 1242,799 1349,402

Source: Eurostat

64

APPENDIX 3 SPECIFICATION OF IMPORTS OF FOOTWEAR BYPRODUCT TYPE INTO MAJOR EU COUNTRIES,1998-2000

Table 3.2 Imports of footwear into United Kingdom in volume and value, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro €


Waterproof footwear:– safety 360 5,601 196 3139 2945 207 1939 2103– outdoor 2,042 16,733 1749 13335 12512 1900 10582 11478Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber:– sports 7,514 58,136 8,448 82,134 77,065 6,604 53,702 58,249– safety 8 139 12 183 172 83 617 669– slippers/indoor 1,141 3,155 1,403 4,031 3,782 1,534 4,307 4,672– outdoor 45,272 306,425 46,495 302,284 283,627 50,294 313,128 339,642Footwear with uppers of leather:– sports 6,570 112,679 6,365 105,628 99,109 6,543 104,341 113,176– safety 2,173 45,577 3,277 62,315 58,469 4,196 69,645 75,542slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 689 4,044 483 3,554 3,335 337 2,568 2,785– rubber or plastic 407 3,632 793 5,977 5,608 1,340 10,930 11,856Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– leather 19,410 383,508 21,303 378,127 354,789 18,636 349,696 379,306– rubber, plastic, synth. leather 89,561 1469,148 108,545 1608,175 1508,918 96,113 1419,917 1540,146– other 11,487 40,854 9,036 46,397 43,533 6,323 35,725 38,750Footwear with uppers of textiles:– sports 18,302 234,802 18,205 219,248 205,716 16,757 183,662 199,213slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 395 2,373 383 1,970 1,848 318 1,742 1,889– rubber or plastic 13,060 41,929 15,769 48,932 45,912 19,092 52,939 57,421– other outer soles 17,004 35,208 16,925 33,684 31,605 17,289 36,930 40,057Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– rubber or plastic 14,868 99,447 17,179 126,744 118,921 19,258 124,320 134,847– leather 5,006 37,788 1,817 27,979 26,252 1,172 18,809 20,402– other 3,317 8,796 6,446 10,116 9,492 2,687 8,131 8,820Footwear with other uppers 3,898 26,176 7,196 33,853 31,764 4,577 24,742 26,837Parts of footwear 61 206,611 189 208,372 195,511 774 176,584 191,534


Source: Eurostat

65

Table 3.3 Imports of footwear into France in volume and value, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro €


Waterproof footwear:– safety 366 3,052 278 2,870 2,693 496 3,921 4,253– outdoor 3,756 20,794 3,770 20,109 18,868 3,730 17,674 19,170Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber:– sports 5,250 111,253 4,583 105,838 99,306 5,263 104,783 113,655– safety 11 127 13 144 135 5 69 75– slippers/indoor 1,287 3,529 730 2,875 2,698 1,140 3,026 3,282– outdoor 43,098 284,955 45,661 277,313 260,197 52,762 308,986 335,149Footwear with uppers of leather:– sports 3,676 73,611 3,639 71,273 66,874 3,963 70,503 76,473– safety 2,523 39,297 2,586 39,451 37,016 3,936 48,935 53,078slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 320 2,796 388 3,261 3,060 311 1,709 1,854– rubber or plastic 711 5,210 951 6,620 6,211 734 5,260 5,705Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– leather 14,565 373,269 15,015 353,816 331,978 14,889 327,797 355,553– rubber, plastic, synth. leather 67,132 1092,834 67,110 1061,813 996,278 77,066 1123,054 1218,147– other 3,690 50,898 2,894 46,737 43,852 2,545 38,206 41,441Footwear with uppers of textiles:– sports 18,107 208,459 14,513 171,173 160,608 18,362 213579 231663slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 1,313 3,726 1,726 5,611 5,265 1,207 4,396 4,768– rubber or plastic 18,984 39,889 21,448 42,758 40,119 26,428 46,539 50,480– other outer soles 21,521 28,717 21,477 28,623 26,856 21,311 28,577 30,997Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– rubber or plastic 36,946 176,007 38,987 190,992 179,204 37,387 169,577 183,936– leather 1,264 15,222 1,079 14,906 13,986 697 10,158 11,018– other 3,879 13,139 3,179 11,327 10,628 1,866 9,608 10,422Footwear with other uppers 2,371 12,186 2,872 15,505 14,548 3,491 13,304 14,431Parts of footwear 1,342 243,245 1,033 237,569 222,907 1,153 213,355 231,418


Source: Eurostat

66

Table 3.4 Imports of footwear into Italy in volume and value, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro €


Waterproof footwear:– safety 62 1,081 245 1,862 1,747 427 1,521 1,650– outdoor 1,479 10,188 1,704 9,597 9,005 2,852 8,714 9,452Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber:– sports 5,194 70,044 5,875 66,044 61,968 9,219 77,298 83,843– safety 11 239 14 268 251 63 505 548– slippers/indoor 1,126 3,095 947 2,841 2,666 790 1,798 1,950– outdoor 23,569 117,965 32,456 139,066 130,483 30,838 159,031 172,497Footwear with uppers of leather:– sports 7,323 132,730 5,455 95,777 89,866 5,152 87,384 94,783– safety 3,346 51,416 3,986 56,326 52,850 5,559 56,121 60,873slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 472 2,032 361 1,539 1,444 329 1,059 1,149– rubber or plastic 1,027 7,473 1,713 12,327 11,566 2,977 18,037 19,564Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– leather 6,135 95,694 7,429 105,688 99,165 7,112 96,462 104,630– rubber, plastic, synth. leather 38,205 544,094 46,086 652,059 611,814 54,408 726,006 787,479– other 915 8,503 686 8,192 7,686 865 6,225 6,752Footwear with uppers of textiles:– sports 18,498 211,646 17,940 241,237 226,348 18,556 250,370 271,569slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 137 764 68 473 444 98 727 789– rubber or plastic 7,037 19,087 8,021 19,303 18,112 7,901 17,103 18,551– other outer soles 22,614 35,040 20,660 33,043 31,004 18,926 29,010 31,466Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– rubber or plastic 20,262 86,046 24,496 94,938 89,078 22,983 92,507 100,340– leather 385 3,948 477 4,433 4,159 426 3,707 4,021– other 2,948 6,932 2,253 5,896 5,532 958 2,364 2,564Footwear with other uppers 2,509 11,876 4,669 14,334 13,449 5,409 19,189 20,814Parts of footwear 4,994 757,371 2,646 732,960 687,721 2,678 740,342 803,028


Source: Eurostat

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Table 3.5 Imports of footwear into The Netherlands in volume and value, 1998-2000

1998 1999 2000’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro €


Waterproof footwear:– safety 736 3,941 619 4,301 4,036 295 2,623 2,845– outdoor 1,222 7,498 1,421 7,773 7,293 1,338 5,424 5,883Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber:– sports 992 12,996 1,971 20,706 19,428 1,632 20,002 21,696– safety 5 82 22 309 290 20 295 320– slippers/indoor 855 2,488 659 3,236 3,036 696 2,884 3,128– outdoor 24,473 155,051 27,781 161,849 151,860 29,833 189,950 206,034Footwear with uppers of leather:– sports 1,188 26,467 2,005 34,521 32,390 2,362 34,946 37,905– safety 497 14,334 685 17,413 16,338 843 19,311 20,946slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 901 1,930 704 1,425 1,337 444 968 1,050– rubber or plastic 294 3,534 494 4,283 4,019 505 5,963 6,468Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– leather 3,295 89,010 3,474 77,636 72,844 3,095 69,674 75,574– rubber, plastic, synth. leather 38,296 641,778 47,318 724,241 679,541 48,385 736,893 799,288– other 1,870 8,165 1,434 5,067 4,754 844 2,890 3,135Footwear with uppers of textiles:– sports 5,586 81,974 9,686 124,256 116,587 9,289 140,753 152,671slippers/indoor, outer soles of:– leather 32 179 90 448 420 132 412 447– rubber or plastic 2,653 8,427 2,182 6,259 5,873 3,080 7,043 7,639– other outer soles 6,208 12,757 8,851 15,969 14,983 9,384 15,931 17,280Outdoor footwear, outer soles of:– rubber or plastic 14,222 57,475 15,682 64,838 60,836 15,147 62,861 68,184– leather 333 3,334 297 2,322 2,179 234 1,531 1,661– other 8,062 17,463 3,184 5,956 5,588 1,218 2,448 2,655Footwear with other uppers 2,667 5,766 4,167 10,339 9,701 953 3,895 4,225Parts of footwear 699 46,108 1,303 43,939 41,228 681 33,479 36,312


Source: Eurostat

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EUFootwear Industry CECEuropean Confederation of the Footwear IndustryAddress: Francois Bossaertstraat 53, B-1030, Brussels,

BelgiumPhone: + 32 2 736 5810Fax: + 32 2 736 1276E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.cecshoe.be

Retail CEDDECEuropean Confederation of the Shoe Retailers AssociationsAddress: Wiedner Hauptstrasse 63, A-1045 Wien,

Austria Phone: + 43 1 50105 3320 Fax: + 43 1 50206 294E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.ceddec.at

AUSTRIAFootwear Industry Fachverband der LederverarbeitendeIndustrieVerband der SchuhindustrieAddress: Wiedner Hauptstrasse 63, A-1045 Wien,

Austria Phone: + 43 1 50105 3453 Fax: + 43 1 50105 278 E-mail: [email protected]

Retail Bundesgremium des SchuhhandelsAddress: Wiedner Hauptstrasse 63, A-1045 Wien,

Austria Phone: + 43 1 50105 3320 Fax: + 43 1 50206 294E-mail: [email protected]

BELGIUMFootwear Industry FDSFederatie van de Belgische Schoenindustrie Address: Francois Bossaertstraat 53, B-1030, Brussels,

BelgiumPhone: + 32 2 735 2701Fax: + 32 2 736 1276E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.ping.be/febic/febic.htm

Retail Fédération nationale de la ChaussureAddress: Rue Neuve, 19 B-4500 Huy, BelgiumPhone: + 32 85 211660Fax: + 32 85 236090

DENMARKFootwear Industry DKSFAddress: Dansk Industri, DK-1787 Copenhagen V,

DenmarkPhone: + 45 3377 3377Fax: + 45 3377 3440E-mail: [email protected]: http:// www.di.dk

Wholesale Danish Association of Commercial Agents

Address: Borsen, DK-1217 Copenhagen K, DenmarkPhone: + 45 33 950 500Fax: + 45 33 330 464E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.commercial-agents.dk

Retail Danmarks SkohandlerforeningAddress: H.C. Andersens Boulevard 48, DK-1553

Copenhagen V Denmark Phone: + 45 3391 4607Fax: + 45 3391 4608

FINLANDFootwear Industry AFSLIAddress: Eteläranta 10, 7th floor, FI-00130, Helsinki,

FinlandPhone: + 358 9 1728 4250Fax: + 358 9 1795 88E-mail: [email protected]

Retail Association of Fashion Retailers in FinlandAddress: Mariankatu 26 B 14, SF-Helsinki, FinlandPhone: + 358 9 6844 7300Fax: + 358 9 6844 7344

FRANCEFootwear Industry FFCAddress: Rue de Miromesnil 51, 75008 Paris, FrancePhone: + 33 2 44 727272Fax: + 33 1 44 710404E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.chausuredefrance.com

Retail Fédération Nationale des Détaillants enChaussures de France

Address: Boulevard de Magenta 46, F-75010 Paris,France

Phone: + 33 1 4206 7930Fax: + 33 1 4206 5209E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.chaussure.org

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APPENDIX 4 TRADE ASSOCIATIONS

GERMANYFootwear Industry HDSAddress: Waldstrasse 44, 63065 Offenbach a/ Main,

Germany Phone: + 49 69 82 97410Fax: + 49 69 81 2810E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.hds-schuh.de

Retail Bundesverband des Deutschen Schuheinzelhandels e.V.

Address: Salierring 44, D-50677 Köln, GermanyPhone: + 49 221 2409 107Fax: + 49 221 2408 670E-mail: [email protected]

GREECEFootwear Industry ElsevieAddress: Rue Penelope Delta 27, 15451 Neopsychico

Athens, Greece Phone: + 30 1 674 4557 Fax: + 30 1 674 4497 E-mail: [email protected] : http://www.elsevie.gr

IRELANDFootwear Industry IRLSFAddress: Coe’s Road-Industrial Estate-Dundalk co.

Louth, IrelandPhone: + 353 42 34 741123Fax: + 353 42 33 371

ITALYFootwear Industry ANCIAddress: Via Monte Rosa 21, 20149 Milan, ItalyPhone: + 39 2 43 8291 Fax: + 39 2 48 005833E-mail: [email protected] : http://www.anci-calzature.com

Retail FedercalzatureAddress: Piazza Belli 12, I-00186 Roma, ItalyFax: + 39 040 771 776 E-mail: [email protected]

THE NETHERLANDSFootwear Industry FNSAddress: Reitseplein 1, Tilburg, The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 90154, 5000 LG Tilburg,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 13 594 4263 Fax: + 31 (0) 13 594 4749

Wholesale VimagroAddress: Beneluxlaan 909, Utrecht, The NetherlandsMail address: p.O. Box 3140, 3502 GC Utrecht,

the netherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 30 284 4538Fax: + 31 (0) 30 284 4501E-mail: [email protected]

Retail Mitex-SchoenenAddress: P.O. Box 162, NL-3940 AD Doorn,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 343 473 250Fax: + 31 (0) 343 473 251

E-mail:[email protected]

PORTUGALFootwear Industry APICCAPSAddress: Rue Alves Redol 372, Apt: 4643, 4011 001

Porto, PortugalPhone: + 351 22 507 4150Fax: + 351 22 507 4179E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.apiccaps.pt/apiccaps

SPAINFootwear Industry FICEAddress: Nunez de Bilbao 116, pl.3a Oficinas 5y6,

28006 Madrid, SpainPhone: + 34 91 562 7001 Fax: + 34 91 562 0094E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.fice.es

SWEDENFootwear Industry Swedish Federation of the Footwear IndustryAddress: Arbesko, P.O. Box 1642, S-70116 Örebro,

SwedenPhone: + 46 1917 3841 Fax: + 46 1917 9588

UK Footwear Industry BFAAddress: 3 Burystead Place Wellingborough,

Northants UKPhone: + 44 1933 229005 Fax: + 44 1933 225009E-mail: [email protected]: http://www.britfoot.com

Retail Independent Footwear RetailersAssociation

Address: 24 Fairlawn Grove, Chiswick, LondonW453H, UK

Phone: + 44 208 9946 259Fax: + 44 208 7422 396E-mail: [email protected]

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APPENDIX 5 TRADE FAIR ORGANISERS

GERMANYGDS International Shoe FairLocation: Messegelände DüsseldorfSegments: The entire range of footwear and leather

accessoriesFrequency: Twice a year (March and September)

In February and August, presentation of newtrends in Salon Schuh Aktuell.

Organisation: Messe Düsseldorf GmbHP.O. Box 101006, 4001 Düsseldorf, Germany

Phone: + 49 (0) 211 456001 Fax: + 49 (0) 211 4560668E-mail: [email protected] : www.gds-shoe-fair.com

Inter-JeansInternational Casualwear and Young FashionIn combination with Herren-Mode-WocheSegments: Jeanswear, sportswear, club and streetwear,

including footwear Organization: Kölner Messe

Messeplatz 1, P.O. Box 210760, D 50532Köln

Phone: + 49 (0) 221 8210 Fax: + 49 (0) 221 8212 574

ISPOInternational trade fair for sports equipment and fashionLocation: Neue Messe MünchenSegments: Active sportswear, fashion sport and sporting

goods, including footwearFrequency: Annual (July/August)Organization: Messe München GmbH

Messegelände, D 81823 München Phone: + 49 (0) 89 94920551 Fax: + 49 (0) 89 94920559Internet: http://www.messe-muenchen.deE-mail : [email protected]

FRANCEMIDEC International Shoe Fashion FairLocation: Paris Expo – Porte de Versailles Segments: Footwear for men, women, junior and children Frequency: Twice a year (March and September)Organisation: SEPIC Expositions

51, rue de Miromesnil, 75008 Paris, FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 1 4471 7171 Fax: + 33 (0) 1 4471 0404E-mail: [email protected] Website : www.midec-paris.tm.fr

PACTrade fair for casual wearLocation: Espace Sofitel St. Jacques, Paris Segments: Slippers, espadrilles, plastic and rubber

footwear Frequency: Twice a year (June and November)Organisation: SEPIC Expositions

51, rue de Miromesnil, 75008 Paris, FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 1 4471 7171 Fax: + 33 (0) 1 4471 0404Website: www.chaussuredefrance.comr

ITALYMICAMMicam/Modacalzatura – International Footwear exhibitionLocation: Fiera MilanSegments: broad range of footwearFrequency: Twice a year (March and September)Organisation: FICI

Via Monte Rosa 21, 20149 Milan, Italy Phone: + 39 (0) 2 438291Fax: + 39 (0) 2 48005833E-mail: segretaria @micamonline.comWebsite : www.micamonline.com

Expo Riva ShoeLocation: Palafiere Fair Centre Riva del GardeSegments: high fashion footwear Frequency: Twice a year (January and June) Organisation: Pala Congressi srl

Parco Lido, 38066 Riva del GardePhone: + 39 (0) 464 520 000 Fax: + 39 (0) 464 555 255 E-mail: [email protected] Website : www.palacongressi.it

Fashion ShoeLocation: Bologna Exhibition CentreSegments: mid market, mid-upper and top range footwearFrequency: Twice a year (January and June) Organisation: Bologna FierePhone: + 39 (0) 51 282 111Fax: + 39 (0) 51 282 332E-mail: [email protected] : www.bolognafiere.it

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NETHERLANDSISNInternational Shoe Fair NetherlandsLocation: Schoenencentrum Nieuwegein Frequency: Twice a year (March and September)Organisation: Schoenencentrum

P.O. Box 6001, 3430 HA Nieuwegein,The Netherlands

Phone: + 31 (0) 30 603 7233 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 603 5607 E-mail: [email protected]

SPAINExpocalzadoInternational Footwear FairLocation: Recinto Ferial- Elche/Alicante Segments: Footwear and leather goods Frequency: Twice a year (March and September)Organisation: FICE (Federacion de Industrias del Calzado

Espanol)Nunez de Balbao, 116, 28006 Madrid, Spain

Phone: + 96 (0) 66 57 600 Fax: + 96 (0) 66 57 631 E-mail: [email protected]

ModacalzadoFootwear and Leather Fashion Trade FairLocation: Recinto Ferial- Elche/Alicante Segments: Footwear and leather goods Frequency: Twice a year (April and September/October)Organisation: IFEMA

Casilla 67967, 28080 Madrid, SpainPhone: + 91 (0) 72 25 000 Fax: + 91 (0) 72 25 801 E-mail: [email protected]

DENMARKSSF Scandinavian Shoe FairLocation: Scandinavian Shoe Centre, Bella Center Segments: Footwear and accessories Frequency: Four times a yearOrganisation: Scandinavian Shoe Centre ApS,

Center Boulevard 5, 2300 Copenhagen,Denmark

Phone: + 45 (0) 32 473 727Fax: + 45 (0) 32 503787

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APPENDIX 6 TRADE PRESS

International fashion magazines for design, styling andforecasting departments

Il Mondo della Calzatura (Shoe World)Publisher: Giardano Emporio SrL

Via Einandi 206 Civitanova Marche, ItalyPhone: + 39 (0) 733 829 651E-mail: [email protected] Frequency: 10 issues/yearLanguages: Italian and EnglishContent: (forecasting) fashion information

ARS/ArpelPublisher: ARS Arpel Group srl

Via I. Nievo 33, 20145 Milan, ItalyPhone: + 39 2 319121Fax: + 39 2 33611.619E-mail: [email protected]: 4 issues/yearLanguages: English, French, Spanish, German, ItalianContent: Magazine for the international leather goods

fashion. Information and fashion trends inleather goods and accessories.

Vogue PellePublisher: Edizione Conde Nast S.p.A.

Piazza Castello 27, 20121 Milan, ItalyPhone: + 39 2 85611Fax: + 39 2 8055716Frequency: 2 issues/yearLanguage: ItalianContent: Fashion information on leather goods,

including footwear.

Sportswear InternationalPublisher: Deutscher Fachverlag GmbH

Mainzer Landstrasse 251, D-60326 Frankfurtam Main,Germany

Phone: + 49 (0) 69 7595 1987 Fax: + 49 (0) 69 7595 12200Frequency: 6 times a yearLanguage: EnglishContent: International fashion trends in jeanswear,

leisurewear, accessories etc.

International magazines with information about productionand trade in footwearEuroshoes MagazinePublisher: ESPO

Consorzio European Shoe Press AssociationE.S.P.A.Via Leonardo da Vinci 43, 20090 TrezzanoS/Naviglio (MI) Italy

Phone: + 39 (0) 2 445 9091Fax: + 39 (0) 2 4840 2959E-mail: [email protected]: 2 issues/yearLanguages: English, French, German, Italian,Content: Information about production, trade and

fashion in footwear in the EU.

World FootwearSales offices: Shoe Trades Publishing

36 Crosby road North Liverpool L22 0QN,United Kingdom

Phone: + 44 (0) 151 928 9288 Fax: + 44 (0) 151 928 4190 E-mail: [email protected]: www.worldleather.co.ukFrequency: 12 issues/yearLanguage: EnglishContent: Global magazine, especially interesting for

manufacturers

Schuhmarkt Trens & ModePublisher: Broener Umschau Gruppe

P.O. Box 110262, D-60037 Frankfurt amMain, Germany

Phone: + 49 (0) 69 2600-0 Fax: + 49 (0) 69 2600-609E-mail: [email protected]: 12 issues/yearLanguage: German Content: Official magazine for German retail

association (Bundesverband des DeutschenSchuheinzelhandels). Developments inproduction and trade, fashion information etc.,mainly focused on the German market.

SchoenvisiePublisher: VNU Business Publications

Ceylonpoort 5-25, P.O. Box 4020, 2003 EAHaarlem, The Netherlands

Phone: + 31 (0) 23 546 3973Fax: + 31 (0) 23 546 5535Frequency: 11 issues/yearLanguage: DutchContent: Developments in production and trade, fashion

information etc., mainly focused on theNetherlands market.

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TredPublisher: Blauw Media Uitgeverij BV

P.O. Box 1043, 3600 BA Maarssen,The Netherlands

Phone: + 31 (0) 346 574 040 Fax: + 31 (0) 346 576 056E-mail: [email protected] Frequency: 10 times a yearLanguage: DutchContent: Trade and fashion information for footwear

retailers

De Voorlichter/L’InformateurPublisher: VDK Press bvba

Marktplein 14, 8530 Harelbeke, BelgiumPhone: + 32 (0) 56 723 515Fax: + 32 (0) 56 723 537E-mail: [email protected]: 10 issues/yearLanguages: Dutch and FrenchContent: Developments in production and trade,

fashion information etc., mainly focused onthe Belgian market.

Chausser MagazinePublisher: Societe des Publications le Cuir S.a.r.l.

1, Rue Garnier, F-92200 Neuilly/Seine, FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 1 4738 1107Fax: + 33 (0) 1 4624 9924E-mail: [email protected] : ww.chaussermagazine.comFrequency: 10 issues/yearLanguages: FrenchContent: Developments in production and trade, fashion

information etc., mainly focused on theFrench market.

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APPENDIX 7 BUSINESS SUPPORT ORGANISATIONS

Organisations, which are active in the field of the promotionof imports from developing countries, like CBI in The Netherlands.

CBI, Centrum tot Bevordering van de Import uitontwikkelingslanden (Centre for the Promotion of Importsfrom developing countries)Address: Beursplein 37 (5th floor), RotterdamPost address: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 10 201 3434 Fax: + 31 (0) 10 411 4081E-mail: [email protected]: www.cbi.nl

ITC (International Trade Center)Division of Product and Market DevelopmentAddress: Palais des Nations; P.O. Box 10, 1211 Geneva

10, SwitzerlandPhone: + 41 (0) 22 7300 111 Fax: + 41 (0) 22 730 05E-mail: [email protected]: www.intracen.org

DIPO (Danish Import Promotion Office for Products fromDeveloping Countries)Danish Chamber of CommerceAddress: Boersen, DK-1217 Copenhagen K, DenmarkPhone: + 45 (0) 33 950500Fax: + 45 (0) 33 325216E-mail: [email protected]

PROTRADE/GTZ (Deutsche Gesellschaft fur TechnischeZusammenarbeit GmbH) German organisation for technical cooperationAddress: Dag-Hammerskjöld-Weg 1-5; P.O. Box 5180,

D-65726 Eschborn 1, GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 6196 796 000Fax: + 49 (0) 6196 797 414E-mail: [email protected]: www.protrade.gtz.de

BfAI (Bundesstelle fur Aussenhandelsinformation)Federal Office of Foreign Trade Information, with offices bothin Cologne and BerlinAddress: Agrippastrasse 87-93; P.O. Box 100522,

50445 Cologne, GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 221 205 7000Fax: + 49 (0) 221 205 7212also:Address: Scharnhornstrasse 87-93, P.O. Box 650268,

13302 Berlin, GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 30 2014 5200Fax: + 49 (0) 30 2014 5204

ICE (Instituto Nazionale per il Commercio Estero)National Institute for Foreign TradeAddress: Via Liszt 21, P.O. Box 10057, 00144 Rome,

ItalyPhone: + 39 (0) 6 59921Fax: + 39 (0) 6 599 26900E-mail: [email protected]

Bundeskammer der gewerblichen WirtschaftAustrian Federal Economic ChamberAddress: Wiener Hauptstrasse 63, P.O. Box 150,

1045 Vienna, AustriaPhone: + 43 (0) 1 501 050 Fax: + 43 (0) 1 5020 6250E-mail: [email protected]: www.wk.or.at

NORAD (Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation)Address: Tollbugaten 31, P.O. Box 8034 Dep., N-0030

Oslo 1, NorwayPhone: + 47 (0) 22 314 400 Fax: + 47 (0) 22 314 403 E-mail: [email protected]

Sida (Swedish International Development CooperationAgency)Address: Sveavagen 20, P.O. Box 3144, S-105 25

Stockholm, SwedenPhone: + 46 (0) 8 698 5000 Fax: + 46 (0) 8 620 8864E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.sida.se

SIPPO (Swiss Import Promotion Programme)Address: Stampfenbachstrasse 85, 8035 Zurich,

SwitzerlandPhone: + 41 (0) 1 365 5151 Fax: + 41 (0) 1 365 5221E-mail: [email protected]

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APPENDIX 8 OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES

Quota, import duties, import licencesThe following organisations can supply useful information on quota, import duties, import licences and other trade regulations.

Chamber of Commerce & Industries for Rotterdam and theLower-Meuse Address: Beursplein 37 (3rd Floor), 3011 AA

Rotterdam, The Netherlands Post address: P.O. Box 30025, 3001 DA Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 10 405 7777Fax: + 31 (0) 10 414 5754E-mail: [email protected]: www.kvk.nl

Chamber of Commerce & Industries for Amsterdam Address: De Ruyterkade 5, 1013 AA Amsterdam

The NetherlandsPost address: P.O. Box 2852, 1000 CW Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 531 4000Fax: + 31 (0) 20 531 4799E-mail: [email protected]: www.amsterdam.kvk.nl

Import dutiesNetherlands Customs DirectorateAddress: Laan op Zuid 45, 3072 DB Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsPost address: P.O. Box 50964, 3007 BG Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 10 290 4949Fax: + 31 (0) 10 290 4894E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.douane.nl

Import duties, tariffs, taxes and regulationsMinistry of Finance, Department for Tariffs and QuotaAddress: Casuariestraat 32, 2511 VB The Hague,

The NetherlandsPost address: P.O. Box 20201, 2500 EE The Hague,

The Nether-landsPhone: + 31 (0) 70 342 7540 Fax: + 31 (0) 70 342 7900E-mail: [email protected]: www.minfin.nl

Import licences, certificates, procedures:Central Services for Import & ExportAddress: De Engelse Kamp 2, 9722 AX Groningen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 50 523 9111Fax: + 31 (0) 50 5260698Internet: www.belastingdienst.nl

More information about the market and other generalinformation can be obtained from the following addresses:Netherlands Foreign Trade Agency Part of the Ministry of Economic AffairsAddress: Bezuidenhoutseweg 181, 2594 AH The HaguePost address: P.O. Box 20105, 2500 EC The Hague,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 70 379 8933Fax: + 31 (0) 70 379 7878E-mail: [email protected]: www.hollandtrade.com

Indication of tenders, CE-marking, European rules forworking and environmental circumstances:EU Trade InformationAddress: Pettelaarpark 10, 5216 PD ‘s-HertogenboschPost address: P.O. Box 70060, 5201 DZ ‘s-Hertogenbosch,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 73 680 6600Fax: + 31 (0) 73 612 3210E-mail: [email protected]: www.egadvies.nl

Labour circumstances:ILO (International Labour Organisation)Address: 4, Route des Morillons, CH-1211 Geneva 22,

SwitzerlandPhone: + 41 (0) 22 79 9611 Fax: + 41 (0) 22 798 8685Internet: www.ilo.org

The following trade directories are free and available forvarious European countries in different languages.KompassAddress: Hoge Hilweg 15, 1101 CB Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 697 4041Fax: + 31 (0) 20 696 5603E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.kompass.nl

ABC of trade and industryAddress: Kon. Wilhelminalaan 16, 2012 JK Haarlem,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 23 531 9031Fax: + 31 (0) 23 532 7033E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.abc-d.nl

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EuropagesAddress: 47, rue Louis Blanc, 92984 Paris la Défense

Cedex, FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 1 4116 4900Fax: + 33 (0) 1 4116 4950E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.europages.com

Important addresses for environmental issues Information concerning environmental aspects is provided bytrade promotion organisations like CBI, DIPO, NORAD andSIDA (for addresses see Appendix 7).

General information:AccessGuideCBI’s database on European non-tariff trade barriersAddress: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 10 2013434 Fax: + 31 (0) 10 4114081E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.cbi.nl/accessguide

Contact point EU ECO-label:Commission of the European Communities, DG XI-A-2Address: Rue de la Loi 200, B-1049 Brussels, BelgiumPhone: + 32 (0) 2 2969515Fax: + 32 (0) 2 2969560E-mail: dgxiweb@dg11,cec.beInternet: www.europa.eu.int/comm/dg11

The Netherlands competent body for the Milieukeurenvironmental label:Stichting Milieukeur (Environmental Review Organisation)Address: Eisenhowerlaan 150, 2517 KP The Hague,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 70 3586300 Fax: + 31 (0) 70 3502517E-mail: [email protected]: www.milieukeur.nl

Contact points for the Öko-Tex hallmark:ZertifizierungsstelleAddress: Frankfurter Straße 10-14, D-65760 Eschborn,

GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 6196 966230Fax: + 49 (0) 6196 966226

Forschungsinstitut HohensteinAddress: Schloß Hohenstein, D-74357 Bonningheim,

GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 7143 2710Fax: + 49 (0) 7143 2751E-mail: [email protected]: www.hohenstein.de

Contact points for the SG (Schadstoffgeprüft Zeichen)hallmark:TÜV Rheinland Sicherheit und Umweltschutz GmbHAddress: Am Grauen Stein, D-51105 Cologne,

Germany Phone: + 49 (0) 221 8062958 Fax: + 49 (0) 221 8062882Internet: www.tuev-rheinland.de

Institut Fresenius GruppeAddress: Im Maisel 14, D-65232 Taunusstein-Neuhof,

GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 6128 744155 Fax: + 49 (0) 6128 744201Internet: www.institut-fresenius.de

Prüf- und Forschungsinstitut PirmasensAddress: Hans-Sachs-Straße 2, D-66955 Pirmasens,

GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 6331 74016 Fax: + 49 (0) 6331 74507

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APPENDIX 9 LIST OF DEVELOPING COUNTRIES

Please note that the OECD list of developing countries, as applied in this market survey, may include countries that are usually notconsidered as developing countries (e.g. South Korea).

Afghanistan Guatemala Pakistan Albania Guinea Palau Islands Algeria Guinea-Bissau Palestinian Admin. Areas Angola Guyana Panama Anguilla Haiti Papua New Guinea Antigua and Barbuda Honduras Paraguay Argentina India Peru Armenia Indonesia Philippines Aruba Iran Rwanda Azerbaijan Iraq São Tomé & Principe Bahrain Jamaica Saudi Arabia Bangladesh Jordan Senegal Barbados Kazakstan Seychelles Belize Kenya Sierra Leone Benin Kiribati Slovenia Bhutan Korea, Rep. of Solomon Islands Bolivia Korea, South Somalia Bosnia & Herzegovina Kyrghyz Rep. South Africa Botswana Laos Sri Lanka Brazil Lebanon St. Helena Burkina Faso Lesotho St. Kitts-Nevis Burundi Liberia St. Lucia Cambodia Libya St. Vincent and GrenadinesCameroon Macao Sudan Cape Verde Macedonia Surinam Central African rep. Madagascar Swaziland Chad Malawi Syria Chile Malaysia Tajikistan China Maldives Tanzania Colombia Mali Thailand Comoros Malta Timor Congo Marshall Islands Togo Cook Islands Mauritania Tokelau Costa Rica Mauritius Tonga Côte d'Ivoire Mayotte Trinidad & Tobago Croatia Mexico Tunisia Cuba Micronesia, Fed. States Turkey Djibouti Moldova Turkmenistan Dominica Mongolia Turks & Caicos Islands Dominican republic Montserrat Tuvalu Ecuador Morocco Uganda Egypt Mozambique Uruguay El Salvador Myanmar Uzbekistan Equatorial Guinea Namibia Vanuatu Eritrea Nauru Venezuela Ethiopia Nepal Vietnam Fiji Netherlands Antilles Virgin Islands (UK) French Polynesia New Caledonia Wallis & Futuna Gabon Nicaragua Western SamoaGambia Niger Yemen Georgia Nigeria Yugoslavia, Fed. Rep. Ghana Niue Zaire Gibraltar Northern Marianas Zambia Grenada Oman Zimbabwe

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1 Importers/wholesalers2 Retail/multiples3 Central buying organisations4 Department stores5 Mail-order companies6 Sports multiples 7 Manufacturers/importers

1 IMPORTERS/WHOLESALERSAmani BVAddress: Bijleveldsingel 12, 6512 AS Nijmegen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 24 3603 603Fax: + 31 (0) 24 3888 288Articles: shoes for womenWebsite: www.amani.nl

Aspo Waalwijk BVAddress: Tuinstraat 22, 5144 NT Waalwijk,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 377, 5140 AJ Waalwijk,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 336497 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 339527Articles: shoes for men and children

Babouche Schoenen BVAddress: Nobelstraat 19, 6902 PH Zevenaar,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 181, 6900 AD Zevenaar,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 316 332594 Fax: + 31 (0) 316 528997Articles: shoes for womenOther companies under the same address: Bladelli: shoes forwomen Bannoxs: shoes for men

J.A. de Bruijn BV Address: Zuidpool 3, 2801 RW Gouda,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 107, 2740 AC Waddinxveen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 182 616 060 Fax: + 31 (0) 182 619 682Articles: shoes for men

Comforta Nieuwkoop BVAddress: Nijverheidsweg 5, 2412 LR Nieuwkoop,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 12, 2420 AA Nieuwkoop,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 172 579 202 Fax: + 31 (0) 172 572 519Articles: shoes for men, women and children

EB Shoes BVAddress: Buizerdlaan 2, 3435 SB Nieuwegein,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 6333, 3430 HV Nieuwegein,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 30 6037 037 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6036 940E-mail: [email protected]: shoes for men and women

Eegim Shoes BVAddress: Tuinstraat 1, 5144 NE Waalwijk,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 663, 5140 AR Waalwijk,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 650 200 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 335 933Articles: sport shoes, shoes for women

Elko BV, HandelsondernemingAddress: Kon. Wilhelminaplein 12-14, 1062 HK

Amsterdam, The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 6178 960 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 6156 805Articles: shoes for men, women and children

Europorta Nederland BVAddress: Elzenweg 27, 5144 MB Waalwijk,


The Footwear StudioAddress: Drenthehaven 3, 3433 PB Nieuwegein,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 1349, 3430 BH Nieuwegein,


Van Gastel Kinderschoenen BVAddress: Engelsestraat 4, 5171 DW Kaatsheuvel,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 54, 5170 AB Kaatsheuvel,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 273 851 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 279 225Articles: shoes for children

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APPENDIX 10 LIST OF MAJOR BUYERS OF FOOTWEAR IN THE NETHERLANDS

Genemans BVAddress: Buizerdlaan 6 (S 116), 3435 SB Nieuwegein,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 6116, 3430 HG Nieuwegein,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 30 6033 966 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6044 186Articles: shoes for women. Mainly operating as agency.

Gevavi Schoeisel BVAddress: Punterweg 1, 8042 PB Zwolle,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 296, 8000 AG Zwolle,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 38 4213 364 Fax: + 31 (0) 38 4215 513Articles: safety shoes; shoes for men and children

Globo BVAddress: Hoofdstraat 99, 5171 DK Kaatsheuvel,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 160, 5170 AD Kaatsheuvel,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 272 572 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 278 172Articles: shoes for women

Heerkens Shoes BV Address: Prof. Eijkmanweg 21-23, 5144 ND Waalwijk,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 142, 5140 AC Waalwijk


Helioform BVAddress: Grotestraat 250, 5151 BS Drunen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 52, 5150 AB Drunen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 321 333 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 373 837Articles: shoes for men and women

Hengst Footwear BVAddress: Broekslagen 8, 8331 TJ Steenwijk,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 174, 8330 AD Steenwijk,


Theo Henkelman Schoenen BVAddress: Doemesweg 10, 6004 RN Weert,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 10123 6000 GC Weert,


Hetharia HandelsondememingAddress: Buizerdlaan 6 (S 123), 3435 SB Nieuwegein,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 6123, 3430 HH Nieuwegein,


Joh. van Iersel & Zn BV Address: Hoofdstraat 38, 7625 PE Zenderen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 164,7620 AD Borne,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 74 2657 070Fax: + 31 (0) 74 2657 075Articles: shoes for men, women and children

Jochie BVAddress: Schijve 1, 5162 CW Gilze, The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 16, 5120 AA Rijen, The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 161 222 666 Fax: + 31 (0) 161 222 599Articles: shoes for children

Intermedium Footwear BVAddress: Debbemeerstraat 12-14, 2131 HE Hoofddorp,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 367, 2130 AJ Hoofddorp,


De Kinderschoenen BV Address: Marconiweg 14, 8071 RA Nunspeet,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 341 254 015 Fax: + 31 (0) 341 260 017Articles: shoes for children

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Jack de Lange International BVAddress: Aalsvoorst 51 C, 7421 MA Lochem,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 180, 7240 AD Lochem,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 573 432424 Fax: + 31 (0) 573 432430Articles: shoes for men, women and children.E-mail: [email protected]: www.jackdelange.nlMainly operating as agency, brands like Audley, Chatham,K-shoes etc.)

Leijten Schoenen BVAddress: Marconiweg 8, 4131 PD Vianen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 7, 4130 EA Vianen, The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 347 366700 Fax: + 31 (0) 347 366700Articles: shoes for men, women and children.

Leomil BVAddress: Kon. Wilhelminaplein 29 (3.01.18),

1062 HJ Amsterdam, The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 69033,1060 CA Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 4874 610 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 4874 620E-mail: [email protected]: sport and leisure shoes

Memo BVAddress: Nijverheidslaan 9, 1382 LE Weesp,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 343, 1380 AH Weesp,


Mexx Shoes BVAddress: Biesbosweg 16, 5145 PZ Waalwijk,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 567 666 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 567 676Articles: shoes for men, women and childrenWebsite: www.mexx.com

Frans Muller & Zn BV Address: Rouaanstraat 29, 9723 CC Groningen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 5194, 9700 GD Groningen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 50 3139 900 Fax: + 31 (0) 50 3127 642E-mail: [email protected]: clogs and rubber boots

Shoe Ab BVAddress: Zuidwenk 78 L, 3751 CG Spakenburg,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 33 298 7444Fax: + 31 (0) 33 298 7222Articles: shoes for men, women and children.E-mail: [email protected]: www.shoe-ab.nl and/or www.celtics.nl

Sieben BVAddress: Schijfweg-Zuid 2, 5995 BG Kessel (L) ),

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 7803, 5995 ZG Kessel (L),


Hein Sitters AgenciesAddress: Buizerdlaan 6 (S 18), 3435 SB Nieuwegein,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 133, 3417 ZJ Montfoort,


De Wolff en Spaans BVAddress: Kitmanstraat 9, 1812 PL Alkmaar,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 1022, 1800 KA Alkmaar,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 72 5402 901 Fax: + 31 (0) 72 5402 957Articles: industrial shoes; shoes for men and women

2 RETAIL MULTIPLES (18 or more stores)BrantanoAdress: Tijvoortsebaan 5, 5051 HJ Goirle,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 13 530 8000 Fax: + 31 (0) 13 530 8001Website: www.brantano.comE-mail: [email protected]

Bristol BVAddress: Weerenweg 15-17, 1161 AE Zwanenburg,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 173,1160 AD Zwanenburg,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 407 6666 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 407 6635Website: www.bristolonline.nlE-mail: [email protected]

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Cinderella Schoenen BVAddress: Stekkenbergweg 8, 1105 AJ Amsterdam ZO,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 82, 1390 AB Abcoude,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 452 4242 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 697 8956E-mail: [email protected]: www.cinderella.nl

Van Dalen BVAddress: Rhone 34, 2266 DA Leidschendam,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 309,2260 AH Leidschendam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 70 419 1999Fax: + 31 (0) 70 327 0701

DolcisAddress: Larenweg 70, 5234 KC Den Bosch,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 3065, 5203 DB Den Bosch,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 73 648 3483 Fax: + 31 (0) 73 644 0611E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.dolcis.nl

Durlinger BVAddress: Leyenbroekerweg 31, 6132 CA Sittard,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 42, 6130 AA Sittard,


Ecco ShopAddress: Wijkermeerstraat 36, 2131 HA Hoofddorp,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 23 562 9899 Fax: + 31 (0) 23 562 7227E-mail: [email protected]: www.nelsonschoenen.nl

Van Haren Schoenen BVAddress: Hoogeinde 35, 5142 GB Waalwijk,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 2, 5140 AA Waalwijk,


InvitoAddress: Larenweg 70, 5234 KC Den Bosch,


The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 73 648 3483 Fax: + 31 (0) 73 648 3532E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.invito.nl

ManfieldAddress: Larenweg 70, 5234 KC Den Bosch,


The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 73 648 3483 Fax: + 31 (0) 73 644 0611E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.manfield.com

Massa Schoen en ModeAddress: Schijfweg 4, 5995 BG KesseL Lb,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 7821, 5995 ZG Kessel Lb,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 77 462 1477 Fax: + 31 (0) 77 462 2245E-mail: [email protected]

NelsonAddress: Wijkermeerstraat 36, 2131 HA Hoofddorp,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 23 562 9899 Fax: + 31 (0) 23 562 7227E-mail: [email protected]: www.nelsonschoenen.nl

Nimco House of ShoesAddress: Oude Kleefsebaan 119, 6572 AK Berg en Dal,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 1361, 6501 BJ Nijmegen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 24 684 3100 Fax: + 31 (0) 24 684 2255E-mail: [email protected]: www.nimco.nl

Podo LinéaAddress: Buizerdlaan 2, 3435 SB Nieuwegein,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 1290, 3430 BG Nieuwegein,


82

PromenadeAddress: Buizerdlaan 2, 3435 SB Nieuwegein,



Sacha ShoesAddress: S. van Zwanenbergweg 10, 5026 RN Tilburg,


Scapino Schoenen, Kleding, Sport Address: Industrieweg 28, 9403 AB Assen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 250, 9400 AG Assen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 592 340 042 Fax: + 31 (0) 592 344 904Website: http://www.scapino.nl

Schoenenreus Schoenen, Kleding, SportAddress: Belgenlaan 1, 5406 XN Uden,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 72, 5400 AB Uden, The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 413 336 699 Fax: + 31 (0) 413 336 600

Tango ShoesAddress: Cartografenweg 24, 5141 MT Waalwijk,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 267, 5170 AG Kaatsheuvel,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 651 660 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 651 569E-mail: [email protected]: www.tangoshoes.com

Van WoenselAddress: Weerenweg 15-17, 1161 AE Zwanenburg,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 173,1160 AD Zwanenburg,


Ziengs Schoenen Address: Nijverheidsweg 1, 9403 VN Assen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 969, 9400 AZ Assen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 592 379 379 Fax: + 31 (0) 592 379 370E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.ziengs.nl

3 CENTRAL BUYING ORGANISATIONS Ariston Nord-West Ring BeneluxAddress: Arnhemsestraatweg 33, 6881 ND Velp,

The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 113, 6880 AC Velp, The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 26 362 9192 Fax: + 31 (0) 26 362 9191Formula: Quick Shoes

Sport 2000 Address: Archimedesstraat 17, 4816 BA Breda,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 3254, 4800 ME Breda,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 76 578 5516 Fax: + 31 (0) 76 578 5578E-mail: [email protected]: www.sport2000.nlFormula: Sport 2000 and Sportpoint

Euro Holland BAAddress: Gezellenstraat 13, 3861 RD Nijkerk,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 1065, 3860 BB Nijkerk,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 33 2454 805 Fax: + 31 (0) 33 2460 684E-mail: [email protected]: www.euroholland.nl

Garant SchuhAddress: Buizerdlaan 2, 3435 SB Nieuwegein,


The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 30 6005 860 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6005 861E-mail: [email protected]: Podo Linea, Promenade, Fair Play

International, Sports Shoe Traffic

83

IntresAddress: Konininneweg 1, 3871 JZ Hoevelaken,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 150, 3870 CD Hoevelaken,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 33 253 2399 Fax: + 31 (0) 33 253 2400 Formula: Gos Sport, Intersport

4 DEPARTMENT STORESDe Bijenkorf Address: Frankemaheerd 6, Amsterdam-ZO,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 12870, 1100 AW Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 3129700 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 6973926E-mail: [email protected]: www.bijenkorf.nl

Hema Address: Frankemaheerd 2, Amsterdam-ZO,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 23220, 1100 DS Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 3114411 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 3114000E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.hema.nl

MakroAddress: Dalsteindreef 101-139, Diemen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 22579, 1100 DB Amsterdam ZO,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 3980200 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 3980201E-mail: info.makro.nlWebsite: www.makro.nl

Vroom & Dreesmann Address: Spaklerweg 52, 1096 BA Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 276, 1000 AG Amsterdam,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 20 5959111 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 6926150E-mail: info@ vroomendreesman.nl Website: www.vroomendreesman.nl

5 MAIL-ORDER HOUSESWehkamp Address: Meeuwenlaan 2, 8011 BZ Zwolle,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 400, 8000 AK Zwolle,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 38 4973311 Fax: + 31 (0) 38 4973495 E-mail: [email protected]: www.wehkamp.nl

6 SPORTS MULTIPLESAktie SportAddress: Edisonweg 4, 4131 PC Vianen ZH,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 347 327 000 Fax: + 31 (0) 347 329 001Website: www.actiesport.nl

Coach, Sportshoes & SportswearAddress: Jules Verneweg 36, 7821 AE Emmen,


Fairplay International SportsAddress: Plesmanstraat 1, 3833 LA Leusden,



Favoriet SportAddress: Kolenbranderstraat 10, 2984 AT Ridderkerk,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 4169, 2980 GD Ridderkerk,


GOS SportAddress: Konininneweg 1, 3871 JZ Hoevelaken,



84

Helderman SportAddress: Nijverheidsweg 23-27, 1851 NW Heiloo,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 125, 1850 AC Heiloo,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 72 533 9233 Fax: + 31 (0) 72 534 0740 E-mail: [email protected]: www.heldermansport.nl

IntersportAddress: Konininneweg 1, 3871 JZ Hoevelaken,


The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 33 253 2399 Fax: + 31 (0) 33 253 2400 E-mail: [email protected]: www.intersport.nl

Perry SportAddress: Oosteinderweg 247b, 1432 AT Aalsmeer,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 510, 1430 AM Aalsmeer,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 297 330 600 Fax: + 31 (0) 297 330 660 Website: www.perrysport.nl

Olympus SportsAddress: Larenweg 70, 5234 KC Den Bosch,


The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 73 648 3483 Fax: + 31 (0) 73 642 5515E-mail: [email protected]: www.olympus-sport.nlAt the same address: Olympus Shoes and Pro Sport

Sport 2000 Address: Archimedesstraat 17, 4816 BA Breda,


The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 76 578 5516 Fax: + 31 (0) 76 578 5578E-mail: [email protected]: www.sport2000.nl

Sport PointAddress: Archimedesstraat 17, 4816 BA Breda,


The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 76 578 5516 Fax: + 31 (0) 76 578 5578E-mail: [email protected]: www.euretco.com

7 MANUFACTURERS/IMPORTERSAvang Schoenfabriek BVAddress: Schoolstraat 6, 5066 EE Moergestel,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 13 513 1232 Fax: + 31 (0) 13 513 3835E-mail: [email protected]: www.avang.nl

Wed. J.P. van Bommel Schoenfabriek BVAddress: Oisterwijkseweg 40, 5066 XD Moergestel,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 13 513 6900 Fax: + 31 (0) 13 513 6999E-mail: [email protected]: www.vanbommel.nl

Durabel BVAddress: Bevrijdingsweg 16, 5171 PS Kaatsheuvel,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 42, 5170 AA Kaatsheuvel,


Durea Schoenfabriek BVAddress: Thomas Edisonweg 1, 5151 DH Drunen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 7, 5150 AA Drunen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 387 387 Fax: + 31 (0) 416

Gerba Windsor Holding BVAddress: Hoge Ham 123, 5104 JD Dongen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 6, 5100 AA Dongen,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 162 313 000 Fax: + 31 (0) 162 321 706E-mail: [email protected]: www.gerba.nl

85

Greve Schoenfabriek BVAddress: Hoogeinde 64 a, 5142 GD Waalwijk,


Van Lier Schoenfabriek BVAddress: Bergstraat 4, 5175 AA Loon op Zand,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 2, 5175 ZG Loon op Zand,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 361 241 Fax: + 31 (0) 416

Loint’s of Holland BVAddress: T. v/d Sijdestraat 18, 5161 CD

Sprang-Capelle, The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 232, 5170 AE Kaatsheuvel,

The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 416 272 399 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 541 819E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.loints.com

Sigma SportschoenenfabriekAddress: Veertels 11, 5133 NC Riel, The NetherlandsPhone: + 31 (0) 13 518 2267Fax: + 31 (0) 13 518 1771E-mail: [email protected]: www.sigmaschoenen.nl

Smits Schoenfabriek BVAddress: Kerkstraat 53, 5101 BB Dongen,

The NetherlandsMail address: P.O. Box 8, 5100 AA Dongen,


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GERMANY

Garant Schuh + Mode AGAddress: Elisabethstrasse 70, D-40217 Düsseldorf,

GermanyPhone: + 49 211 3386-01Fax: + 49 211 3386-297Website: http://www.garantschuh.comE-mail: [email protected]

Ariston/Nord-West-Ring e.G.Address: Nord-West-Ring-Strasse 11, D-63533

Mainhausen, GermanyPhone: + 49 6182 928-0Fax: + 49 6182 928-200Website: http://www.anwr.de

RexorAddress: Friedrichstrasse 103, 40217 Düsseldorf,

GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 2 11 3386 06Fax: + 49 (0) 2 11 3386 665Website: http://www.rexor.deE-mail : [email protected]

Heinrich Deichmann-Schuhe GmbHAddress: Boehnertweg 9, 45359 Essen, GermanyPhone: + 49 201 867600 Fax: + 49 201 8676120 Website: http://www.deichmann.comE-mail: [email protected] companies in retail: Roland Schuhe (address etc. seeDeichmann), Van Haren (address etc. see Major buyers in The Netherlands), Dosenbach & Ochsner (Switzerland) andRack Room Shoes (USA).

SalamanderAddress: Stammheimer Strasse 10, 70806

Kornwestheim, GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 715 415-0 Fax: + 49 (0) 715 415-2000Website: http://www.salamander.de

QuelleKarstadt Quelle GruppeBuying office: Quelle Schickedanz HoldingAddress: Nürnberger Strasse 91-95, 90762 Fürth,

Germany Phone: + 49 (0) 911 140 Fax: + 49 (0) 911 142 4361 Website: http://www.quelle.com

Karstadt/HertieKarstadt Quelle GruppeBuying office: Karstadt AGAddress: Theodor-Althoffstrasse 2, 45133 Essen,

GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 201 7271Fax: + 49 (0) 201 7275 216Website: http://www.karstadt.de

KatagBuying office: Katag AG TextileinkaufsverbandAddress: Stralsunderstrasse 5, 33605 Bielefeld,

GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 521 2920Fax: + 49 (0) 521 292101Website: http://www.katag.net

Kaufhof / HortenMetro GruppeBuying office: Kaufhof Warenhaus AG Address: Leonhard Tietz strasse 1, 50676 Köln,

GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 221 2230Fax: + 49 (0) 221 2231902Website: http://www.kaufhof.de

C&A Address: Hans-Günther-Sohl Strasse 8, 40235

Düsseldorf, GermanyPhone: + 49 (0) 211 6930 Fax: + 49 (0) 211 6931 060Website: http://www.c-und-a.de

FRANCE

EramAddress: Route Chaudron, 49110 St Pierre Montlimart,

FrancePhone: + 33 241 753200Fax: + 33 241 753238Website: http://www.eram.fr

Groupe AndréAddress: 28, Avenue de Flandre, 75949 Paris, FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 1 44 723001Fax: + 33 (0) 1 40 050937Daughter companies among other: Halle Chaussures andAndré

Halle ChaussureAddress: 2, Rue Gaspard Monge, FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 3 44 200923Website: http://www.lahalle.com

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APPENDIX 11 LIST OF MAJOR BUYERS OF FOOTWEAR IN THE EU

CarrefourBuying office: Carrefour France Address: ZI Saint-Guénault, Evry Courcouronnes,

France Mail address: P.O. Box 75, 91002 Evry Courcouronnes,

Cedex- FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 1 60 91 37 37Fax: + 33 (0) 1 60 78 02 91Website: http://www.carrefour.com

La RedoutePPR GroupBuying office: Redcats Address: 57 Rue de Blanchemaille, 59082 Roubaix,

France Phone: + 33 (0) 3 2069 6000 Fax: + 33 (0) 3 2030 5939 Daughters: Empires Stores (UK), Ellos (Spain) and

Brylane (USA)

Monoprix/ PrisunicGaleries Lafayette GroupAddress: Tour Vendôme, 204 Rond Point du Pont

Sèvres, 92516 Boulogne Billancourt, FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 1 5520 7700Fax: + 33 (0) 1 5520 8207Website: http://www.monoprix.fr

DecathlonAddress: 4, Boulevard de Mons, P.O. Box 299, 59650

Villeneuve d’Asq, FrancePhone: + 33 (0) 3 2033 5000Fax: + 33 (0) 3 2033 5001Website: http://www.decathlon.com

UNITED KINGDOMA list of all British footwear suppliers including addresses,phone and fax numbers, E-mail address and website can beobtained from the websitehttp://www.britfoot.com/asp/suppliers.asp

Marks & SpencerAddress: Michael House, 46-47 Baker Street London

W1A1 1DN, United KingdomPhone: + 44 (0) 20 7935 4422Fax: + 44 (0) 20 7487 2679Website: http://www.marksandspencer.co.uk

NextAddress: Desford Road Enderby, Leicester LE9 5AT,

United KingdomPhone: + 44 (0) 116 286 6411Fax: + 44 (0) 116 284 8998Website: http://www.next.co.uk

TescoBuying office: Tesco Stores LtdAddress: 44 Cirrus Building C- Schire Park- Welwyn

Garden City- Herts AL7 1ZR,United Kingdom

Phone: + 44 (0) 1992 632222 Fax: + 44 (0) 1707 297574 (achats UK); + 44 (0)

1707 297645 (achats hors UK)Website: http://www.tesco.co.uk

ItalyCoinAddress: Via Terraglio 17, 30174 Mestre (Venezia),

ItalyPhone: + 39 (0) 41 549 8000Fax: + 33 (0) 41 549 8517Website: http://www.coin.it or

http://www.gruppocoin.it for the holdingcompany Gruppo Coin

RinascenteAddress: Strada 8, Palazzo N, 20089 Rozzanp Milan,

ItalyPhone: + 39 (0) 2 57581Fax: + 39 (0) 2 9065 9055Website: http://www.rinascente.it

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http://www.shoeinfonet.comShoe Info Net is a worldwide information centre, supplyingnews and information about all aspects of shoe production,leather, production techniques, trade fairs and other events,footwear fashion trends. This rather complete and very interesting site for all partnersin the footwear business also gives links to home pages ofmany organisations.

http://www.cecshoe.be CEC is the official representative body of the EuropeanConfederation of the Footwear Industry. CEC represents 14 national footwear federations of the EU and also theobserver CEECs, Tunisia and Morocco. An overview is givenof the EU Research Institutes for Shoes, information forconsumers, external trade and social aspects. The target groupof this site is primarily the European footwear industry,but there is plenty of interesting information for exporters tothe EU, other than the so-called observer countries. There are 14 links to interesting footwear websites.

http://www.shoelinks.comThis website shows a collection of more than a hundredhomepages of footwear brands, classified in several categories(men, women, athletes, unisex etc). The site gives a good ideaof the latest collections of a large numbers of manufacturers,mainly in Europe and the USA.

http://www.worldshoe.comIn two languages (Spanish and English) a large number ofarticles about the latest developments in the footwear industry,country profiles specified as to footwear and leather, events(trade fairs etc.) etc. It is possible, once in two weeks, toreceive the latest news from the shoe industry by E-mail (for free); E-commerce (business to business) is also possible.

http://www.satra.co.ukSatra is a leading international research and technologyorganisation for consumer goods industries covering footwear,clothing, leather, etc.; besides an overview of publications,events etc. an overview is given of the test equipment.However, many of the services offered (laboratory tests,comfort and fitting services, technical arbitration), specificpublications and magazines are offered exclusively to Satramembers.

http://www.worldchambers.comWorld Chambers of Commerce Network, giving an index ofchambers of commerce world-wide (national, regional andlocal). The feature “International Trade Opportunities” is abusiness match-making platform and has a search engine.Each feature can be searched by continent and gives a countrylist in alphabetical order.

The EU market survey “Footwear” includes a detailed list ofaddresses of major buyers in The Netherlands and a short listof buyers in other EU countries including (if available)websites and E-mail addresses. More information and moreaddresses can be found on several websites, for instance,the following trade directories are available without charge forvarious European countries in different languages:Kompass: http://www.kompass.nl; ABC of trade and industry:http://www.abc-d.nl; Europages: http://www.europages.com.

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APPENDIX 12 USEFUL INTERNET SITES

CBI puts you in touch with the markets of Europe

CBI, the Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries, is an agencyof the Netherlands Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Since its establishment in 1971, CBIoperates within the policy framework set by the Minister for Development Co-operation.Its mission is to contribute to the economic independence of developing countries.To fulfil this mission, CBI aims at strengthening the competitiveness of companies inthose countries on international markets, primarily the West-European market, byimproving conditions in enterprises and business support organisations. CBI considerssocial values and compliance with the most relevant environmental requirements to bean integral part of its policy and activities

CBI offers various programmes and services to its target groups:

Market information – CBI News Bulletin (6 times annually);– CBI guide “Exporting to the European Union”;– Market surveys and strategic marketing guides covering the EU including

The Netherlands;– Quick scans on environmental, social and health issues;– Manuals on subjects such as technical and environmental regulations, trade fair

participation, Fashion Forecast etc.;– CBI’s extensive Web site at www.cbi.nl providing general information about CBI,

details about CBI programmes, CBI publications (downloadable free-of-charge)and the GreenBuss database on European trade-related environmental policy andtechnology;

– CBI’ s Trade Documentation Centre offering supply-related information to importers,such as exporters’ directories, country and sector information, periodicals fromdeveloping countries, and - to visiting exporters - demand-related information such asmarket information, trade magazines, address books of European companies etc.

Matching servicesCBI’s computerized exporters’ and importers’ databases, containing around3,500 regularly updated company profiles, are instrumental in providing buyersand suppliers with relevant company data on potential trade partners.

Export promotion programmes (EPP)Step-by-step approach providing intensive assistance to selected exporters in developingcountries in order to obtain a firm and lasting position on the EU market. Made tomeasure, demand- driven and flexibility are combined with fixed elements such as:– pre-selection of candidates based on written documentation;– technical assistance during company visits and distance guidance by CBI branch

experts;– export marketing training (for instance through the EXPRO seminars);– market entry (for instance via participation in European trade fairs);– market consolidation by way of follow-up support, further technical assistance

and/or repeat market entry activities.

Human resources development– BSO MARKET INTEL: five-day seminar in Rotterdam for relevant

middle management staff of BSO’s, aiming at supporting BSO’s inestablishing or improving a Market Information Service (MIS);

– CAPITA: two-week seminar in Rotterdam for specific industry &trade associations. Aims to provide –through their associations-specific industries or sectors in developing countries with tools toengage in business relations with importers and/or manufacturersin the EU;

– BSO-FAME: two-week seminar in Rotterdam for project managersof BSOs focusing on practical knowledge and applicable tools inexport promotion to international markets in general and theEuropean market in particular;

– IntFair: two-week seminar in Rotterdam for BSO staff members onthe organization of collective participation in European trade fairs;

– Expro: seven-day seminar in Rotterdam on export marketing andmanagement for selected exporters participating in a CBI exportpromotion programme;

– Workshops in developing countries: 2-4 days for BSOs and/orexporters, focussing on general export marketing andmanagement, a specific product sector or on specific subjects.

Multilateral co-operationCBI co-operates with the International Trade Centre (ITC/WTO) toglobalize trade promotion and with other European import promotionorganizations to increase efficiency and effectiveness by combiningefforts.

Please write to us in English, the working language of the CBI.

Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countriesCentrum tot Bevordering van de Import uit de ontwikkelingslanden

Mailing address:CBIP.O. Box 300093001 DA RotterdamPhone +31 (0) 10 201 34 34Fax +31 (0) 10 411 40 81E-mail [email protected] www.cbi.nl

Office and showroom:WTC-Beursbuilding, 5th Floor37 Beursplein, Rotterdam, The Netherlands.

No part of this publication may be sold, reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior permission of CBI

Mailing address: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam, The NetherlandsPhone: +31 10 201 34 34 Fax: +31 10 411 40 81E-mail: [email protected] Internet: http://www.cbi.nl

Office and showroom: WTC-Beursbuilding, 5th floor37 Beursplein, Rotterdam, The Netherlands

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22415 MS Footwear Omsl 4mm

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