,

~t\. IirIzzIglndUB'~~ (tal, " \. '-'

! ,''''':-' ==~-----------------=-----------=-------,=== .'. ',, ~>, ~ PURVEYORS OF FINE MACHINERY"

:::;'::~~~:l~~~:'~~SAWS W/CAST IRON WINGS & TABLE

• Motor: 2 HP, 11CNI22fN, OOgIe-ph_

' PrKlsiongroul'ld c.t~1 iron tillJlto~.

2r 1 )9110" wlw!ng~

10" LEFT TILTING SUPER HEAVY,DUTY TABLE SAW

, Motor: 3 HP. 22OV. single-phase · Pre<:~ioo grOl.lrJd (ast ~on table w/2 (<1st iron elrtenslOn Wlrq..

• Tabk> ~ize wI wings (lttOKhed: 27" x~·I.·

· Arbor. 'I," (Kc/!plidado

10" LEFT TILTING SAW WI 7' RAILS & EXTENSION TABLE

, Motor: 3 HI'; 22011, singk!-pmS/!. 3450 RPM - Pre(uion ground cast iJon t~ • Ext/!nslon ubi/! !>Ill!! lrx 44' • Arbor: 'It" (<lccepl!. diido blades up to 11/ .. 1

' ... "'" -- "!;~~"::::If Obssic"Fe!n ..; • Nt»r: '11'

biadesuplD 'J/ .. ,

- Cutting capacity.

• Cuning capacity: 8" k!ft, 54" right ' Mal!. depth eX cut: 3" ~ 9rJ", 2'It"@I<lS·

;:;:::;;;;. ..... "'PP'''''';';'''!..'"",, "'" '''' • RlpUp.KIty. 30" • Cutting c~p«ity: l 'I,'.9ft, l't.". 4S'

o "'pptOl:. ~,pping

weight: 2981bs..

G0444Z ONLY $57500 !ll1~!.l GOnS76 ONLY $61500 D

• M.D:. depth ofcvt: 3" @90·,2'/.'~4S'

,A",ro" '"pp., S weight 465Ib~ ~ ... --

INCUN" SHOP FOr a...".I(, mitE

Gl023SL ONLY ' 97500

6 " JOINTER ~ B" X 75" JOINTERS ~ • Motor: I HP, llfN, ~ngle-phase ~ . Motor:2 liP. 11fNl22fN. slOgl~philse, ~ • Table size; 6" ~ 46" 1QtT-III TEFC, 3450RPM .lJIKJ • Ma.l. depth of (ut 'I, "'lICI m.. II . Pl'Nision ground (1>lllI)n table FUI ...... OJ . Max.rllbbeMgupacity;'/t' MOeIUfAKl "" • Knives:4HSS.8'"~I"x '/.·(G0586) IAmYMM , CutteTheild kni\leS: 3 • (utterheil'd~: 5500 RPM IIlOeD

• Cu\whl!ad di!.: 2'1."~~;i;-::·~'c~~:· (utterhead diameter: 3' • Cutterheild speed: otcut: I

4800 RPM Max. rabbeting • (uts per minute: depth: ''''

14,400 • (ul~ per mirM.l1t: · Ca~t Iron ~nc:e 22.000 (G0586) • ApprO)(. shipping • Approx. shl~ weight: 270 II». weight: SS81bs..

IlICIJMS A rm MIl OF INTRODUCTORY PRICE!

WlnMltuca G058EtoNLY $~;55D INTifOOUCTORY PRICE! If'k:t:" ....

G0452 ONLY 532500 G0593VTONLV $99500 ~ 15" PLANER

, MOlor. 3 HP, 22CN, '>Ingle-phil:>!: , Prt(\slon ground (Mt iroo Llbk! size: IS" x 2ft

• Ma., cutting height: S-• Min, ~tock thkl:;~s: '/0 ..

'UM-1N ~ltleIC STAND~

MOIllE lAIC

OSCILLATING SPINDLE I 12" DISC SANDER

, Motor: 1 HI'; 110"1, ~irogIe-pha~ rEF(

, Ca~t iron U~ till to 45· , 14'h" square

, Disc !iiloder table:

IK UIPU SHOI' FOX· n ... ,,,'" !lltel

G1023SLX ONLY $1~!50'"

B" X 76" JOINTER -Motor. 3 HP, 22W. ~1"91/! phase, JEFe. 3450 RPM -r.bl/! ~ 8' x UN .. ' - lnfNd table ~:8' _ 431/,' • Cutlerheild knive-s: <I HSS, 8' l 'I.' l '/I" • Clittelhead~: 4900 RPM -Cuts fminUlI!: 19,600 ,Culterhead dlam/!tl!\': 3'/,'-, Mal(. depth 01 cut: '1," - Max.labbeting depth: ,;,' -Appro .. shipping weight: 5971bs.. ,

-IfI'TRODUCTO,.r , ...... . P/tKEt ~

G0490 ONLY $75000 _

12" BABY DRUM SANDER ' Sanding motor: I '" HP, 110122011, 'i,ngle-pha:s.e , Convey« motor: 'I.. Hp, 11OV. slngle-phase,

""liable speed 0-15 FPM • Drum sJ)Hd: 2300 FPM • Max. stod; SIZe: 12" W x 3)/ ," • Min. $lock length: 8'

• Min. stock k!ngth: 1'£ • Max. cUlling drpth 't," , Ft«l rate: 16 FPM &]0 FPM

' SpirJdl/! sizl!s: 'N, '1.".I'I/SoT

, : ::";~I~'& loop

· Cutttrheid dl~~er. 3" • Numberof knll'es: 3 • Cutterhl!ad speed: 5000 RPM

• "PProx. shipping weight 661Ibs..

/NT/fOOUCTORY PRICE!

G0453 ONLY 577500

• Spiodle speed: 1725 RPM

- Strok~ length: I ' - APPfQl. shipping weight: 1801bs.

FAKfAUlt .. "" ' •.

G0529 ONLY '45000

' Approl, shippi"9 weight. 1991bs.

INIlUURrAL.DUlY CONYEYOl'ELT , SIPi' MANPLU ~Olt

POnA,IIUTV

14" BANDSAW

MAO'LW lSotOl1 """."

• Motor: 'I. HP, 1 HWI22fJ11, single·pha~ me

• ~I~ion groulld u~t IfQfl table • Table size: 14".14" • Table ti lt 4S' right IS'Ieft • Cutting capacity/throat: 1 l'h" • MiU. cl.lltJrlq h.eight: 6' o BI~e StU: 92'Hto 93'1>" ('la' to J!." wide)

• BI<lde speed: 3000 FPM . 4' dust POrt • Appro~. sll!PPing Wl!ight.

165 Ibs.

INCUIIiIU Qt.llt,; '!.APE IIUAIl SnnM. '/.­.u.0l. FiltCl ~ MI1II1: tALJti

G05BO ONLY $32500

20" PLANER ~~ • Motor: 5 HP, nov, \ing ll!·ph~M! ~ • Max. (utling width: 20" • M~JL cuttill9 ht!ight: 8" o Min !tock thiclmess; 'I,,' • Min. slock Imgth: 75' • Mal-CUlling dl'pth: 'I." • Feed r.1I\e: 16 FPM & 20 FPM . Cunerhead diaml!u~r:

3'11' • Number of kniveo;;" • CU!1emud speed' 5000 RPM

o Table ~ 2()'" ~ 2S't.' (20' x 55'1,' wi extension)

• Approx. shipping wt'Ighl 9351bs.

INTROOUCTORYPRKEI

G04S4 ONLY ' 117500

24" VARIABLE SPEED DRUM SANDER

• Drum motor: 5 HP. 22fN, s1ngle-phioSE' • (Olllleyor motor. 't. HP • Conveyor speed:vanable,O 20FPM • M~x.$tock thicknlm. 4'. • Sandp.lper: r hook & loop • Control pa~1 with ~mp load m('ter • 0...5t port~: (1) 4' , Appro .. sh ipping

weight: 4891b$

INeWOUA IIEAVV-fUTY ,,.OU

OOfiIVEYOIt 81111

THE ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW • Motoc 1 HP. lllJViUOV.

slogle-phil)l!, TEFC • PrKiSion 9'ound cast irOfltable • ~uKe extruded aluminum rence • Cutting cap;lcilyllhroat: 11';," , Max,C\Jttlng~ght:6'

• Blade si~ 92'/,' - 93';," long I'll' - '/,' WIde)

, 2 blide speeds: 1 SOO & 3200 FPM , Appr~ shipping weight: 198 1bs.

•

" • MAK IJ , - . 1101001

~ • fAl!TOIY1

IIICLUOES FEMer. MinI! IALII[. ·I.'ILA~[' QVleK 'LAD' UUA5 SmlM

G0555 ONLY $42500 a 11fz HP SHAPER

• MOlor: l'hHP; l1OV/22O\1, 5ir"lgle phase • Pre<isior"l g ro~nd ust Iron tab le • T~ bIe siu: 2O'1" ~ IS-• Spindlttravel: 3' • 1mterchangNbie spirdes:'1i &'1.' , Spindle opoeningi on UbIe:

l 'I.: 3'h'& S' , Spindle speeds: 7000

& 10,000 RPM • Mu..cutterdiameler:5 ' , ~pp<l)~. m ippinQ

weight: 2211bs.

INtLIIDU MlnllAOlE 'mtllm'll

UmvtUAlH , 1IOUI-tOWlf SmNH

G1035 ONLY ' 51500

I~OWlIWI

DmOIIA' 111" nt

2 HP CYCLONE DUST COLLECTOR • Motor:TEfC C~ss 'F: 2 HP, 220\1, Slng\e--phaJ.e

. Amp~ 125 • CyclefRPM: 60 Herut ,,,,RPM · lf1tiI~e r.oIe size:; • Impeller: 13';,' steel. riW!tl1d • Suctior"l(apacity: 1154 CFM

• 2.S· SP • Static preswre: 10.4" • FIII/ation: 0.2-2 miclOn. 99.~efficiency

. FlltH surface alN. 86 sq. fI • CoIectioo Drum: Steel, 35 g"ll<)ns

' Awox. shipping weight: 315 100,

17" HEAVY·DUTY BANDSAW , Motoc 2 HP, 11OV(22fN, slil91e·phi!se. TEK, 1 m RPM

' ~n gl"Ound WI iron table , Table sire: I r x 1 r x I'h' . ~. (utting height: 12' • Slide length: BI'/,'

' B0de sires; 'I.'· " ., .. ~~. ' Blade~ 1600& 3300 fPM f' . ()JSI porI: (2) of'

' ApPfflX· UlIPpong wetght: 342 Ibs. -

"",ID'INISO UOI fACfOltYl

uttLIlDU '/,'IUP'. flMU' """''HUTY MinK tAUtl

G0513 ONLY $79500 g 3 HPSHAPER

, Motor:) HP, 220'1, 5ingJe-phaw wi rewrslng sWitch

IfCWPU MITt. .... un

'fENeiWITH , Pre<isloo ground usllron ta~ • Table size wfmndal'd wing

attached: 30' "'J{ 28'i,' --, ...... • ) interdlangeable SPindles:

'1>:'1<' &1 ' • Spiodle travel: 3' , Spindl!! ~nlng5 011

table: 1'1,',2'10', 4 80S'/;'

• Spindle speeds: 7000 & 10,000 RPM

• Appr~ mipping weight: )571bs

MAl fUTle M Ir eK

G1026 ONLY $95000 g 3 HP CYCLONE DUST COLLECTOR

• MotocTEFC C1ass"f~) HP; 22OV, ~ngle-phaw

, Amps: 19.5 • Cycll!lf1PM: 60 Hertz! 34SORPM

, Inla~e hole Sill!: 8' • Impeller: 1 S' \tee~ IIveted • Su~ lion capiKity· 1654 (FM P 2.0' SP

• Stlti( pressure: 142' • Filwtion: ().2. 2 micron, 99.~elfl6ency

• Fillef ~rfaO!.trea 108 sq. ft • (olledioo Drum: Sleet.

Clfd. No 583

INNOVATIVE

THINKING.

IT'S WHAT SETS

US APART. Sincr 1958. Varalh .. ~ hal bun

!W!lIing the ,lart<ioJrd in the wood

Ufl! industry. The flnt potyure.

thane. Tke fiBI gd . tain. The

fn! wal~·based polyurethane.

The rlfsl waler·baled floor finish .

And now. loya oil baled premium

wood staim.

And lhen, in 1003 , Vllrathane

was the first 10 intnxluce Trial

Site Stain Packets.

Ayailable in each

of Varatnaoe', 24

beautiful suin COIOfS,

these convenient pack·

els help lake lhe iU"'­work oul of wood work

by en"';"1 you It' l lhe

right coloi' lhe first time.

~'VCI)' 1m:. Since Itw

~Iion of trial

fini5hing

experts

(heck. even

some com·

petito,,)

hm

embraced

the idea. Chalk up another

groundlnaking innovation

to VaralhMw.

NOTHING RUINS

YOUR WOODWORK

LIKE THE WRONG

STAIN COLOR.

. \laralhallot spent yea" c~ating

the p"fecl palelle of H colon ,

working ck>sely with lop furniturr

makers, analyting industry color

WE HAVE A REPUTATION FOR BIG INNOVATIONS.

• I

Now, HERE'S A BUNCH OF LITTLE ONES.

5 F I RST CHO i Ce"

trends. cOfllix:lilg extensive consumer

research. We ended up with 14 sIlt.

ing colors that COOSl.lmer5 pn!'fer JTlllIr'e

than 2 10

I o\w tke

coloR of

Minw ....

"""" Firtih · .

You·w

w"""" hard 10 pt'rim your ..... oodworking craft.

We've worked hard 10 perft'1:1 your

ch~e of prenum wood Slain colors.

And now with lhe~e tri~1 w packets.

it 'li cai-iel" than ever to select the one

THE

VARATHANE

ADVANTAGE.

Here·, what makn Varathane

a ~riOl'" wood stain: the

perfect formulation of soya oil

and MJperior piGment'. VaroiltNne

uses oothinGleu than ultra-dear

soya oil in all

of itt stains.

It ' Ii clearer and

liehter. so it

prOVide. a ..... ider

range of color

than stains made

with linseed oil. And our premium.

Iranslucent piements are much

smaller in poilrticle siu. oiIllowinG for

superior color penetratioo. Of course

lhet-e are other ways to mak $Iains.

But none: bElta.

10 learn more about products and

projects. and for professional tips on

woodworkine and wood fmishine . visit

woodarnwen.com today . _ ............... ,...- .. ... ___ c ......... . ·-._h' ..... _ _ _ ... _ _ .. __ ~_...,..I(IO,

= RUST-OLEUM" cO.PO .... TIO.. CJ0C'6

PROJECTS

28 rouler-bit holder 32 kerfing jig for bending plywood 38 ready-to-serve wine cabinet 46 amazing-space tool cabinet

This tour-dOor cabinet occupies jost 7 square teet of wall pt delivers 2ti SQuare feet 01 1001 storage.

58 tones-of-fun tongue drum 62 graceful bowfront table 82 end-grain cutting board 98 more cutting-board designs

TECHNIQUES

34 put an end to measuring mistakes 52 make any bandsaw a peak perfonner

Master woodworker Michael Fortune shows how 10 tlme·LCJ and use thiS key shOp tool.

68 making curved and tapered legs 76 cut straight edges on anything

Know your madllfltrlQ 09bonS tor takilg the crook out Of less·than-perfBct sltldl.

90 pack more workshop into less space DIscover 21 storage-savvy ways to address the mess In yom faVtlnle hall9out.

1[1; try gauge blocks for fasl set-ups Cut profiles of your router bits and use them for quick adjustment when making these cuts agar!.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

70 shop tested: air-fiHration systems Purlf)' ~ Shop's air with one of these 10 moDeb,

100 five shop-proven products

o EPA R T MEN T S

6 1lll1tor~ ang~ 8 sounding boartl

12 ask WOOD 20 shop tips

112 what's ahead

58

nus seal is )I0Il' asstnlCt! .. , we bIikI every ~ vOOfy every lad, anti test mwy f'eYIeWed i0oi in oor ~ to gunrtee roor soccess aoo complete salislaction,

WE DESIGN 0lR ~ TO 11£ MOST S1RINGfM' STANDARDS,

1RIPlE 0iE0< EAOt ONE R>R QUAI.l1Y ASSlJRANCE AND

BAD< t.VfRV MAOINE \I.mt A RJU. TWO-\'fAR WARRAN1Y!

MINI PLANER/MOULDERS O pen sided Mini PlanerfMoulder allows plenty of flexibility for profile moulding and ,I"n', ...

FEATURES: • 1"\0(01",2 HP, single·ptl:lli. 220V • Varlabl. IpHd motor,O,S HP • Cut~rheld I~":; 7.000 fl.PM • Feed I'llte: wln3· 15 FPM.

WI7)9.1.IBFPM ~ • Mn. profll. d~th; '/0' '*IIiII" • H.t • . profile ..... ,dth' 6\1,- PI"" rrl • Pianln, width; 7" M .. ulde,

• MII\. stock 18I1ath; 9' ~ • Min. stock thlckness:!t." ,.,..,. • i"bl(.ltock thK;;kl1eu; 7'/1"

• Appro. sh'pp'''' ~cHOIbI,

v..rillble Speed PI<,."erl Mould.r

10" LEFT·TILT TABLE SAW WITH EXTENSION KIT

T he ever dependable W1677 l eft·Tilt table saw is even better with this extension kit to increase ripping capacity!

FEATURES: • 3 HP.l1O¥.

l'ngIe-p~ motor

• PrecI\.lOO ground UII or..., obM WI1b T·lIon • Ml. bbde Moghe 1" • 1UpP-l, upKlt)', sr .. ',4. arbor !Cuptl !bcIo IllS

up U> " "" • HU\'f.ckn), Cllt lren

T his mortising workstation nlndles everything from standard Clbinet dOQr stiles to posts and beams up to 9"

FEATURES: • I'kxor: !'.i HP J I rNmov.

'*'Ii""1't.a.e,TEfC.J12S RPM • T~bIe .. ze:I9"", 12Y:."

• VortiaI >pin'" tn¥1Il 9" • Hue! verdQl tnYtt 3" • T1blelon&-travcl: I .. Yo" • T~blect'O<S "",,,,",,1" • Col ..... ' till: :t30' • Feoce M>gIe".O· )0'

• Spondle <peed I.m P.PH • Approuh'pPnl 'fI'e!lIIt: 315 Ills.

20"PLANER with SPIRAL CUTTERHEAD

FEATURES: • Motor: 5 HP. 220"', ilngI.·pN.se • PrKislOl"llf"OU'ld inf • ..:!

and I)~ ubles • T~ble $'1t;25>;'· x W"

(SS';'" x 20" with extension,) + Cutting t)tithe S';." • MllC depth of ~U!: Yo' • CUltemud Ip~d: ",BOO RPM • Cuttemud diameter: 3Y," • Feed rates. 16 & 20 FPM • Approx.lhlpplng wtlthe B75 Ib,.

Spiral • CutttrMad

8 " JOINTER with PARALLELOGRAM ADJUSTABLE BEDS T hiS 8~ Jointer, with its large 8" x 4)l;'i" infeed table and built-in locking mobile base is loaded with features. FEATURES: "",notic rwitd>.ith tt.. ... 11

-">ad f'RIKt_ • Motor:) HP, 11OV, wntIt·phase, 3,.50 RPM • T~bles: prtCision ground cut Iron.

parallelogram design • Deluxe cut Iron lente size:)S" x 5" • Cutterhud d,ameter" ]0/ .. -

• eunerhud knivu. 'i:::~t~=:::=~ .. (HSS) 8" II: y,- x '/," ./ • • Cuts per mlroute. 19.600 • Cutterhud 'PHd: <1.900 RPH • Mil)(. dept/! of tilt 't." • Appro)!, shipplnl

_ ,gI'lt: 600 Ibs.

2 W e designed this 2 HP Shaper to give maximum performance.

FEATURES: S~

• 2 HP. 110"'1110"'. "'1&t..pnue motor

• Ur&e preclllon around c;.ut oron uble. 2-4" .2'"

• HtIIII)'-ch,1Q' ml~r Pure • 'II" Jr>d W spondIes ndudo!d • 3" splndle u'ave! • Ha--y as!. Iron tonI.truetion

with 02057 Adjug",bI ..

Hobile Bue (not Induded)

• C.bir>e1. ,1<U>d "'Ill> pc>wder c .... lftI paont • Appl'Olt.lhoppi", _,ght: 270 IbI. • SHOP FOX" is a registered (rademar k

of Woodstock Intematlonal, lnc. saI~@~hoplox.b.i%

TO SE~ OUR INNOVA T IVE MAC HINES AT A N A UTHO RIZED DEALER, PLEA SE

CALL FORTH E LOCATION NEARI;S'TYOUI

SHOPFOX,BIZ 1-800-840-8420 CIrcle No, 1'2~

Octnber 2006

_ 170 lor ~ PIQI1/s'

50CtI ~ nWerary.

Better Home8 and Garden~

Vol. 23, No,!5

f~·IH·CIE' BUJ(JIIEII

&:eclJM E~ ~ EdiIrK JIM HARllOUl IIIAIIL£N KEMME'/

Ellillrill Ma/IagI!r", Tools _Ill Ted1,..ues SenIor ~'11 ~ DAVE CAMPBEll KEVIN IW1'LE

Tt:d1I1{JJtS ~ T~ Editor BOB WLSON BOt! IIUNTBI

i'fojects EIhlf Projects EdIor OWEN DUVALL JAIl me

0Wgn E~ Masltl CraItma1 .&F YEIITZ CIlllClt HEDlllfD

Jt\ [)Qo;u ~ Jt\ IkrecIcJ As:sis\a'I\ Nt Diredoo' IWIl EtI..ERS GIIEG Sl:tlfRS ctIER1'L A. CI8lU

l'fI:Id\J(;t<orVl.lfflcet.lanallt'f ~~ IUJlGARET ClOSNEJI SHHI'f1. Ml/IffON

Ph:llc9'a+lhm MARTY BAlDWlH. sam LITT1.!, BLAJItE MDAT5, JAY Wl.OE

II~ 11M CAIIILl, LORNA JOHNSON, ROXANNE leMOINE

T~ COrIsJJIa~ Jeff KAll. DEAN FIENE, PAT LOWRY c;.:.,lnbIJIrig CrlIItsman JIM HEAVEY

f'n:Iotreaders &ARBARA XWN, IIA L.lCI£R, JIM SAJlDB'IS

CUSTOMER SERVICE: 8001314·96&3

~~~~~'~""'i~~~aI:Io<J spec~ic mann, Me ~ 10 .

... ;;;.;;CS;;; , I'Iu'e:J1ZM}.1Wi fs:JI~1'906 ~ /MIglI' AMANDA SAUtOOT

~ ~ JACK Cl\RlSTlANSl:II, ClROLYN WlS !1nc!~l\II!~~ RY.QIIlTHlLAMl

.l.ssislanls GAVLf CI£JN, JENNlf£I! ROOGlEJII ATLANTk ~teMellil

1815 Old Alabama Rd, ~ 1320, ~I, GI.»J76 Fl'nIe: t>7&W7 .0110 fu: S18iS07-0118

DE1lIOIT: IIP'M Associatss 29.l5O So:.tIJIieId fId .• Suite 31, Souldleld. lot 48076

Phone: 24&'551-7490 Fn 243mJ.7(99 8USINBS IlEVElDPt.IEIIT

NEW YORK: ~ts Media ~ 52 T~ Ilf, Crolon 011 Hu:iI<rl, N'1' 10520

Ptae: 9Uf2J!l·3483 Fu; 91-'1ZJ9·3-4\13 lDS AHGEUS: SOu1hccist Projects

12fi82 F'Io:a'J Citdt fb1I, Sln O.eoo. CA £r.!128 f'!\ona: 858167H1921 Fa:J:. 36OI2<16·5661 ~rlliS$ l.I¥Ia!ler JOEL [TIENNE

Comumer ~ Ond(lf ROBIN IlUTCIIINSOti AssiSlanl CIlrr:s>JIJlef frrIilrIo:etioglolw.,ef BIll WOOD

Associate Director of ~·NewssIMd TOM OEEflJljC ~ WanaQeo' TIM ST1ltfFER ~ 0perui)nI; ~ Ul8Y EHUK!

s-o-v.ee ~ DntU DOUG 1IlSON

GlI)(4I ~ TOM 0A'm

MEflBlIlll PUBUSliNC GROtI' ~ JACI( GRiFf'll

Friance & AIlrmi:sh!Xol KARLA .lB'fRIES IoInrtidurlog BlllICf HESTON

CootJrner I.Ine~og DAVID BAll. CreatM! SeNic.es ELllN III UTHOtJDEA

Wporalll Sllu JACII BAMBERGER IIltmir::IM Media lAlIIEJi WlEHER

C¢rpoJrate IIb1<etiog 1IA1tC' WEBElI I\esea'd1 IIRfTTA WARE

~

Issue No. 1n

.11'.\

5

-_ ....... ~-11 __ 001

1-800-966-3458 •

1-800-966_3458 • www.gon I Latap~ (1m

irde N !IO

Coming to your newsstand!

Outstanding Project Plans for your Home,

Yard, and Holidays! • Build any design in a

weekend or less • Save money with

off-the-sheH lumber • Use only basic power

and hand tools Available on newsstands Septembef 12 or

order online at woodmag81ine.com/putlllcations

editor' angle High school: wood shop: alive and well (in places) It's no secret: Wood shop is disappearing

from schools everywhere. But there are

innovative teachers who manage to buck

the trend. Here are two of them. I caught up with Jeff Hall (right) during a bandsaw-blade tes t.

I f you read the tool reviews in every issue of this mugazine, you already know of Jeff Hall. He's been doing

independent Irxl1 tcst~ for us-and doing a first-rate job of it-for the past several years. What you may not know is that when Jeffs not torturing tools, he's teaching cabinetmaking at East High School here in De~ Moines. RL"CCntly, Jcffwa~ honored with the 2OJ6 Teacher of the Year Award roc Des Moines schools.

Like a lot of great teachers, Jeff cares deeply about his students and is someone they confide in. Plus. he expects quality work fmm tht!m. He actively keeps him~e1f. his students, and his program visible at the school and in the community. For example, when East High recently underwent renovations. his students built donor plaques and constructed new display cases. He exposes his pupils to expert woOOworkers and :;,et up a pmgmITI for his student" [0

become mentor.; in instructing children and adull~ in pen turning.

Another "teacher of the year," for Yavapai County. Ariwna, is Tom Bockman or Prescott. His program is explooing in popularity with 91 students in 2003--()4, 172 students in 2(X)4.......()5, and 201 students in 2005--06. For the first: time, he had to tum advanced students away this school year, while adding another beginning class.

How does he do it? Tom chalks up his success to several things. First, he developed an interactive CD for 8th-grade students. It gets the kids (and their parents) excited aix)Ul high school shop class by showcasing in-class and job-site activities,

Second, the Prescott students conduct attention-getting community project~ such

6

Tom Bockman (left) Inv ited Internationally acclaimed woodturner Richard Raffan to demonstrate for his woodshop class.

as a wishing well for the Make-A-Wish Foundation. For these projtx-t~ Tom is tireless in pursuing publicity-another key to the popularity of his program. Finally, his students have the opportunity to make a little money by selling projects to libraries, furniture stores. private citizens, and the school board. 1beir most ambitious project: a school board conference table fully wired for electrical outlets, interfaces for laptop computers, and lighting.

Of coun;e 1 don't have enough space here to mention all of the outstanding teachers helping to pass along wmdwurking skills to a genemlion less exposed to them than ever before. But for scveml more examples of young woodworkers doing great work, see page 8.

To all of you who are mcntoring tomorrow's woodworkers, in a classroom or your home shop. keep up the good work!

W OOD ",a gazlr... O",,,ber aOO6

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- - __ .i-----

sounding board Our bulletin board for letters, comments, and timely updates

Woodworking lives on with today's youth Although many high schools are cutting back on vocational classes, there are sti ll some out there instructi ng students in

hands-on skills---such as woodworking­thaI could lead 10 either a career or hobby. At WOODti magazine we applaud those

adult.!. "' ho teach the neJt t generation. as well as those young people ~ho are eager to learn the craft.

Students work together to build and expand WOOD 's table

Juniata VoJley students, from \eft, seniors Tyler Hall, Matt Boone, and Corey Ughtner, sophomore Corey Boone, and junior Nate Paterson, reeoglneered and built thi!! game lable.

Five afmy high !;Chaol woodshop ~tudcnts recently built a modified version of the game table you featured in issue 167 (Dcccmhcr/Januliry 20(5/2006). They wanted to make it bigger to seat more fricnd~. so they doubled its length. added two leg'! to support the middle, ami expanili.."fi the size of the cup holders. Using cherry, they linished the table with a natural cherry stain and four coal.~ of polyufClhllne.

The group usually follows a magazine project's plans as closely as possible, bul after re.~rch ing ca.<;jno~'llylc game {abies on the Imernct. they elected to change the playing surface, They rece,<;!Ied the top W' to kct:p cards from sliding off; added a layer of 'iii" closed-cell foam under the surface for paddmg; and used velveteen fabric., rathcr than felt , because it's less likely to "pill" (develop tiny balls of fabric that result from wear),

It took the.: group three we~ks to make the table, working two hours a day in class. (Incidentally. ~tudents in another class made the four·~t game table a~ shown in your magazine.) Thanks for the project and plans.

8

-Tony Payrlfl, Incustrllli Arts and Technology leache~

JUI1/lI1a 'lallsy High ScIloaJ, Alevmtlria, Pa

High schoolers fulfill their mission to craft chairs Two students in our .,.--...,.--cabinetmaking class recently built 12 miss ion~style dining chain. from the design you published in issue 15~ (March 2(04). Dovi Hi~h, 18, and Ian Marsan. 17. worked together to build the chairs from cherry for their senior project. (La'\t year [hey built a cherry dining table.)

The only difference In

their chai .... is the. seal: Ian wanted red fabrIC

buill a doze~"d""irn' ."nWg'dChairn lor their senior project..

upholstery on his six, while Dovi preferred black \'inyI IOr his. Because Lan's dad works as an upholsterer, he helped out with thaI a.~pecL Working about four hours each day, the guys completed the chain; in about seven weeks.

Dovi. who graduated as valedictorian in his class., also operates his own Web sile bu!oines!o, dhpens.com. There he sells custOIn­turned pens as well as other office and ki tchen accessories.

---Jo8 Marla and RoJand Bessette, cabinBtmaking InstflJCfoo, Southeastern Regional Voclltional fecfJrncaJ HlgIJ Schoof. South Easton, Mllss.

Father tutors daughter with Tudor birdhouse My I O~year~old daughter. Anna. li kes to look through WOOD- magazine and has been asking me to build something with her for solTle time. The Tudor birdhouse plans in issue 169 (April/May 2006) seemed like the nght project. so I decided to set aside some ti me with her and bui ld it.

We mMe some changes because she didn·t v.'ant 10 wait for delivery of the copper foil for the roof. I had cedar shake. ... lying around, so we

Anna and Paul Timmerbefg show off their version of the Tudor birdhouse.

used them for the roof. She d id all the painting, nailing. and design changes, with help from me on the power tools. She i ~ so pn:)l)() of the birdhouse and look.<; out the window every morning in hopes of seeing its fif"!'; t tetlant:'>.

-Paul Tlmmeroerg, St. LOUis cnntirllled on paf1t' 10

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Pegboard sides add extra tool storage to cart 1 loved yoor tbign for the rolling workshop storage unit in issue 167 (December/January 200512006). I made it even more u!t(:ful by adding perfOT1lled hardboard to the two "ides from which I hung tools. I simply cut v.t grooves in the top and bottom 2)(2 cleats. and added extT'll 2)(2 cleats with grooves yertkally to hold the 1/." perforated Illlrdbourd.

-5t8V8 votta/, Edell PrairM. Minn.

1/ .. " grooves Y.! ' deep, ,"' trom fronl

'I. x 29," x 651,.,.' perloraled hardboard

HOW TO REACH US • For woodwol1dng advice:

Post your woodWorking qU6StionS ijoinery, finishing, tools, wming, geflefal woodwor1<.­jng, etc.) on one 01 20+ online forums at woodmagaline.comlforums.

• To contact our editors:

'0

Send yoor comments via E-mail to woodmailOwoodmagazlne.com; or call 8001374-9663 and press option 2; or write to WOOD magazine, 171B Locust St. , l S·221 , Des Moines. lA 50309.

Putting reclaimed wood i back to work-In a bench

After many years of intending to build a workbench fo.-my shop, I recemly built your workbench from issue 166 (November 2005). I panlcularly liked the use of top strelchers, which makes for a stiffer frame.

I built mine all1lOSl enlirely ofrecJnimed wood. I made the top from salvaged maple flooring boards set on edge, with the tongues and grooves cut off, using the equivalent of 60 square feet of flooring.

"Log" on to this Web site After reading your article on master w()(xiworkcr Jerfry Lohr in issue 167 (Deccmber/January 200512006), I wanted to share a Web slle devoted to those who enjoy wood in its rougher stages. Jeffry suggests finding a local sawyer to obtain rough lumber or to have your logs custom sawn, and folks can do

Article updates Issue 169 (April/May 2006) • The artide UFasteners for a lasting, firm hold- on pages 64-65 described our finishing trim screw as a decking screw; however, irs designed for finish carpen­try applications. We recommend our R4 multi-purpose screw and RT trim-head screw for fastening deck boards. Sec· and, a photo referred to a competitor's screw as a uW·Cut: which is a trade­mark. of GRK Fasteners and refers \0

, one of many patents owned by GRK. For more information on our product line please visit grkfasteners.com.

--{Jr. Mirco wallhlJf.presidsnt & co-owner, GRK flisttJfI6lS, T/lund« Bay, 0I1f.

• Subscription assistance: To notify us of an address change, or to get help with your subscription, go to woodmagazine.com/sen'ice; call 800/374-9663 and press optioo I OUtside the U.S., call 5151247-2981 . Or write to WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA 50037-Q439. Pl6aS1! enclose your address label from a recent magazine issue.

• To find past articles: See our index at woodmagazine.com/indel.

The re.<;;t of the bench I made from pine reclaimed from old buildings. I turned the vise handle from a salvaged piCl.."t": of maple. The maple for the vise jaws turned out to be the only new wood in the project.

--Ouer Mar1h8ller. Mandan, N.O.

(hat by going to forcstryforum.com and using the locator li nk to find what they need. There are more than 3,000 members on this Web site discussing foreMry, sawmilling, drying, construction, safety, and many other woodworking­re lated areas.

-Dave Klish, Oneida. N. r.

Issue 169 (April/May 2006) • If you're building the planier box on pages 56- 59, you've probably noticed a few missing dimensions from the stretcher (part 0). The correct dimensions are shown, below.

, . r;;;----32·----~ ,. ....:rl,·,- I -,,·Irr· 'r-ILLi ! ~ -t-r-,3';'_" -:r--'-:'@~

y t Trim 10 til v.' roun<i-overs during installation .

• To ordet" past issues and articles: Order past issues of WOOD magazine, our special issues, Q"" downloadable artides from issue 100 to present Visit CU'" ooline store at woodmagazine.com/stDn!, or call 8881636-4478. Some Issues are sold out.

• Updates to previousty published projects:

For an up-to·date listing of changes In dimensions and bUYing-guide sources tram Issue 1 Ihrough today, go 10 woodmagazine.comJeditOfial.

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ask wood Answers to your questions from letters, e-mails, and WOOD Online®

Sorting out a maple mix-up

Q . I was given some maple • boards, but how can I tell if

they are hard or soft maple? Also, what's the best finish for each?

-Rebert IOOg. High Ridge, Mo.

project and personal preferences. To preserve maple's light color. apply a non-yellowing, water-based finish . To bring out the paUL'!"n in bird's-eye or curly maple while giving it a light amber color, apply boiled linseed oil and allow it to dry tOr a week before applying a dear film finish.

If you want Soft maple

Got a question? If you're k.>okinglor an answer to a woodworking Queslion, write to ASK WOOD, 1716 Locust St., LS-221, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023, (If sefld us an a-mai l at askwoodOwoodmaga2inll.com. For immediate feootlack from your fellow woodwOOl.ers, po:st yoor questioml on erie of our woodworking forums at woodmagulmt,com/forums.

Hard maple

A . Color and grain similarities make . hard maples-sometimes called

sugar, rock, sweet, or black maple-lough to distinguish from soft maples, which include red, silvc'f. or swamp maple. For a simple test to te ll the difference, Robert, mix two tablespoons of ferrous sulfate (iron sulfate) in one cup of water and shake until di%olved. (You can find ferrous sulfate at many lawn and garden stores.) Wipe the :>elution onto a piece of the unknown lumber and wait a minute for the woOO to change cotor. Soft maple will turn a translucent blue-black color. On hard maple, the surface turns greenish gray.

darker colors, though. use a dye instead of a

Ferrous sulfate 5Ollrtion applied to these sample boards turns the 50ft maple (le ft ) a blue-black, and t he hard maple greenish gray.

Whether you have hard or soft maple. the "best finish" is just the one that suits your

Patching a nuisance nail

Q . I didn't angle my alr-pow­• ered brad nailer right,

and the fastener blew out the side of my project. Can I pull the brad through, or do you have a better Idea?

-Shawn Smith. Bridgeport. OhiD

A• You can pull t.he brad through, • Shawn, if the wood is soft

enough. the brad head i~ small enough, and you have enough room to attach a pair of locking pliers to pull or pry it out.

Anolheroption, shown at upper rtXh/, is to break otf the brad beneath the surface and patch thc hole. In this instance. bending the loose end of the brad back and forth broke it off just below the wood surface. Shou ld the nail break off slightly above the surface, use a hammer and nail sel to drive the exposed portion beneath the surface. After lightly ~nding the damaged area, fill the hole with putty. as shown at lower righl. to match the finished color of the wood.

12

pigmented stain. MapJe's small pores don't trap enough pigment to produce an even color without blotching. Unlike stain

Break the nail off beneath the surface. J

pigments, dye will fade with age, however, so apply a darker surface than you want for the long term.

Kid-size table heights

Q . I want to build a 3x5' table . for kids to use, but I'm not

sure what height to make it. Any advice?

A . Here's a good way to measure table . height tor kids, regardless of their

llge, Shannon. Seat the child on a chair or stool they'll use at the table. Measure from a point just below their ribs to the floor, and use that dimension as the table-top height. Adding a couple of inches will help the table adapt to kids as they grow.

This play center from issue 167 (December/ January 2005/2006), page 76, stands 1 9~ high at the sides and 1£" high at the table top.

COn/iII/led 011 page 14

DEWALT GUARANIUD

. .

ask wood

Wipe out stain streaks

Q. I built an oak sideboard from • WOOD magazine plans In

Issue 155. page 66. When applying the stain, I accidentally left a streak of stain across the grain. Now, I can see that wipe mark. What can I do about it?

---lJ.]ve PanisIl, ltlurlg5viJfe. N.C.

A• You have three opportunities to . refTlO\Je soch l1aws. Dave. An

acddenlaJ slain drupkt or wiping mark on a fresh ly stained :ouTface can be masked by applying enough ~tain to thai area to penetrate the wood as deeply a~ the droplet or wiping mark. Then remove the surplu.~

stain. making your final passes with the grain using a clean cloth. If the resulting color is 100 dart, lightly wipe the whuk: surface ..... iih a rag saturated in minernl spirits.

As the bmder in the Slain dries. you can still remove unwanted slain using mineral spirils and <!. soft mg. as !>hown bel()w. Wipe the streaked area fi only.

Once the hinder in the stain has dried and locked the pigment in place, however, you'll need to remove the mark with sandpaper of the highest grit used for the rest of the project. Then restain until you match the color of the surrounding wood.

To lessen the impact of accidental stain streaks and spots. apply stain working from the haltom to the top of each IiUrfacc. That way, any accidental drips faJl on prcvK>usly stained surfaces. where they're less likely to show up if you wipe them away while still " .. et. Wipe away excess stain before it hegins to dry, and work on one face al a time to avoid leaving accidental streaks 00 adjoining surfaces.

14

Holding together memories

Q . I have a question about the • scrapbook project in WOOD

magazine Issue 166, page 72. Do you have a recommendation for gluing leather to wood?

--Duc1Iey WillJams, WIChita, Kan.

A . Any white or yellow wood glue . will bond most raw leather to

wood, Dudley. According to technical specialist Dale Zimmerman at Franldin International, that company's original Titebond glue once was used to cormect the

Shrinking a saw blade arbor hole opens up options

Q • After recently buying a 12" • mltersaw, I discovered the

blade that came with the saw has a \Ie" arbor hole. I am trying to find a replacement blade, but they're all made for a 1" arbor. Where can I get a 12- blade with a ;i," hole, or a 1 · ~to-¥eN bushing?

--8ill RsJJer. V8ooJuver. Wash

A . A bushing will expand the blade . options for your saw, Bill. These

bushings, which look like carefully machined washers, slip into the ' " arbor hole on a 12" blade, as shown below. That reduces the hole size to fn your saw's ~"

arbor. Freud makes a bushing (no. BL7JMCE9) for downsizing ,- blade holes to fit your saw. Make cenain the saw's blade mounting washers and arbor nut place pn:ssurc against the blade bOOy, not the bushing. to keep the blade from spinning loosely on the arbor. Before you buy a bushing, though, make certain the saw didn't come with a bushing that's jammed onto the original blade or arhar.

woodmagaa.h' .. . ., .....

ends of leather drive belts for heavy machinery in fdCtories.

A scrapbook binding, such as the one shown al righI, won', face the smne stresses. but you'll need to take a few precautions. Some leather treatments or colorings reduce any glue's bonding ability, so lest the bond by gluing a leather scrap to a wood scrap and giving it a light tug. Abo, yellow glue won't discolor most leathers, but check for color transfer when gluing thin or Iight­coloced leather. If there's a problem, switch to a clear-drying white glue.

c(}nlinu~d on {KJf(f! 16

ask wood

Upping the amps

a _ When my 14.4-volt cordless • drill batteries gave out, I

found I could buy a new cordless drill with two batteries and a charger for about the same price as two replacement batteries, so that's what I did. The new batter-ies were marked 2.6 Ah, whUe myoid drill's batteries were marked 2 Ah. The salesman said I could use the 2.6-Ah bat­teries In myoid drill. Is this correct?

-Juhll Watkins, Ulilrk, Ark.

A. So long as the new • batteries fit into the old

dri ll and are the same voltage, they'll work just fine, John. Batteries with higher ampere­hour (Ah) rdtings store more energy than batteries with lower Ah ratings. Your old dri ll will run roughly 3D

• • • • Dealer Inqutrles welcome

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percenlionger with your new 2.6-Ah batteries than with the old ones.

eire .. No. 9210

, One good turn ... ! a . I'm satisfied with my 1 • bandsaw, except for the

b lade tensioning knob. The 2W ' diameter knob is too small for my hands and it's too close to the housing. Has anyone found a larger knob , handle, or crank that makes tension adjustment easier?

--Bob Rufener, Hartf()(O, Wis.

A• You'll need on ly five minutes to • replace that knob w](h an easy-to­

turn crank, Bob. That's how long it took us to insta ll the Quik-Crank bandsaw tcnsioner (Rockier no. 20410. $35, 8001279-4441 or rockler.com), which works on most 14" band!..1ws. lust unscrew the original threaded tensioning rod and knob, add the replacement rod and nut, and attach the crank using the set screw and allen wrench provided, as shown below.

If YO\I need a more heavy-duty option, install a Spinner 3 tensioning crank (Highland Hardware no. 189102. $60, 8001241-6748 or tools-for-woodworking. com). This retrofit uses a 5" chromed cast­iron crank wheel attached to a .¥s" acme­threaded rod and hronu: nut dc"igned to keep the tension setting from slipping. Both types fit most brands of 14" handsaws . •

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INNOVATION

shop tips Helping you work faster, smarter, and safer

No-brainer setups for feather boards top shop tip Feather boards add both r-~~"'-""C:::=:::----::::::=:-:-=:-:=:-:=:-~I y Feather board setup stick safely and consistency to many cuts on the router table and tablesaw. But there's a fine line between too much and too little pressure, and finding that line used to drive me hall nuts. That was before I made a few feather·board setup sticks from scraps of hardwood.

After perfecting the feather-board lenSKln for a ¥~. -thick workpiece, I made a setup stick by planing down a scrap of stock a little at a time until it just slid easily under that feather board. Then, I labeled the slick so I'd know which thickness of material it works for.

Now, when I need to sel the feather board, I simply slide the appropriate

setup stick against the fence, stand the ! feather board on top of it, as shown I above, and clamp the feather board to I the fence , The setup stick also ensures : that the feather board stays parallel to i the table top, applying uniform pressure j along its length.

-John Ducey. LawrlffiCfl, Kan.

Microadjust your fence with a turnbuckle Making superfine adjustments to my router table fence was hit-Dr-miss until I came up with my own microadjustment system, shown be/ow. With this system, I simply clamp one end of the fence and make fine adjustments to the other end, fore or aft, with the turnbuckle,

To add a turnbuckle to your fence, use the hardware shown to add a pivot bolt to both the fence and the starting block. Use a turnbuckle with eyes large enough to fit snugly over the bolts. If the eyes are too large, fill them with epoxy, let it cure, and then drill out the epoxy to fit the bolts. Use a washer on either side of the eye, and lighten the assembly together.

The turnbuckle works best on the ·push" stroke, so always make final adjustments by driving the fence away from the slarting block to take out any slack in the threads. To ensure

20

that the fence doesn't move once you've got it perfect, clamp the turnbuckle end of the fence down. When not in use, you can leave the pivot boH and eyes in place and remove the turnbuck!e. Then store the fence and the starting block.

-Wayne OOOOvan, KBlIS<IS City, Mo. ,

The Top Tipster

A recent newcomer to woodworking, John Ducey is just starting to set up shop. Other than his tablesaw, he owns a router that he received for Christmas a year ago. He then built the router table, shown above, that inspired this issue's Top Shop Tip.

For sending the Top Shop Tip of th is issue, we're doubling the number of routers in John Ducey's shop by shipping to him a Porter-Cable 895PK 2-hp router kit. Attaboy, John!

Top tips earn tools! Describe how you've solved a work<.hop stumper, and you'll get $75 if we print it. AIXl, if your tip garners Top Shop Tip honors, we'll also reward you with tool trea.~ures worth at least $250.

Send your best tips, along with photos or illustrations and your daytime phone number, to: Shop Tips, WOOD Magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-221, Des Moines, lA 50309-3023. Or e-mail tips to: shoptips @woodmagazine.com. Remember to include your contact info in the e-mail as well.

Because we publish only original tips, please send your tips only to WOOD magazine. Sorry, submitted materials can't be returned.

("amilll/N/ ,m fIuge 22

i ! !

You see your tools as an extension of who you are. You see a piece of wood and you see opportunity At Steel City Tool Works. we know who you SRI. And you're not like everyone else. Which is why our tools are nol like everyone elses. Bottom line? We make toots that make a difference in yoor work We back them up with the best warranty in the business. We offer features that come from the minds of woodvvorkers, not sales guys ., need of a good gimmick. And ...-.e're doing business in a way that Is flat-out reshaping the industry. Welcome to the new City. Visit steeicityt()()/v.Jorks.com to find your nearest distributor.

C..-de NQ. 1769

BY TOOL GUYS. FOR TOOL G UYS.

shop tips

Laid-back sander sharpens knives and chisels As a wood carver, I spend a little more time sharpening my knives and chisels than most woodworkers. And while I could justify spending up to $500 on a dedicated sharpening system. a few dollars and a little ingenuity allowed me to tum my strip sander into one of the best sharpening systems I've ever used.

Begin by bUilding the dual sander base, as shown in the drawing. Be sure to add hardwood feet to the sharpening base 10 create a space for the tool rest hardware. Next, mount the sander to the

X mHEAIITDUTY Prvfeuional

X aPrHJNAl CDllFOIlT CwllionH Grip

~EIIT PEIFORllANa DriV'fS 6 Diffef'l'nt Sizl' StllpleHNaiis

X mORDINAIlf POWER 14 Amps of SU'fI' Pow"

X OTING DESIGN New Ergonomic StyliR9

base. Finally, build the tool rest, as shown, from ¥i!' th readed rod and a piece of 1x1' aluminum angle.

The base allows you to tip the sander onto its back so the bell will travel horizontally and away from you. This positkm is ideal for sharpening lools. Fine sanding beM of 400 to 600 grit will work lor many sharp­ening chores. For more versatility, a leather belt is a lso available that, when Ireated with an abrasive, will do an excel lent job of stropping gouges and chisels.

-{;ene ClinIY. Ck:erQ. N. Y.

ETFX50'·

®e "' ........ "

... It's what YDU're come to

XPECT from ArrDW!

'ftp/rtg Amtrlcil itrvltg

45° brace

¥ •• 0/ • • is" hardwood loot

22

TOOL REST ASSEMBLY

If-''- ";n. nul

lock washer

%" nut.- : -1x1 " aluminum

, angle 1001 reat

%" nuts

~ Washers

~'!EJl\\'iV Yo" plywood

WOOD magazine O<::lobfr aooe

TIle .IDS Co.",.ao¥ ~ finll~ (IJ,. t;lill'fflJlJ1lti}MJj illJl/; 1J1l~~ t;ql(I#J;JifllJ,

JDS Air-Tedl 750-ER

4;' .. ..,. .. ,.

~I:!~riqrr Q~~\~QII~~lQl1;

JOSCyclone 2HP1 4SO al.I )HP 1100CFM

www Jdstools com ~ For more information or a dealer near you call 800.480.7269

The first blade good enoug h to

honor the Corter brond .

Pr .. cision mill.d t •• th Indudion hardened

Flexback con$Wvdion Match tooth welded

Alio from Carter Products: guides I stobiliu.rs

tension d.vicu

tires I much mora

~AR UL11f comes in qUOIt and gallon S~J. II;S available in glo55, ~mi·gloss Gnd satin sheens.

ULTRA Max is an environmentally safe, revolutionary dual drying polyurethane.

It dries by coalescing & oxygen cross-linking for a harder"through cure."

• l ow voe -does not e)(ceed 250 giL

• Extremely Durable

• Dries in 2·hours

• Exotic Hardwood Approved DualDr • Made in the USA TECHNOLOGY

D • " • H •• D • • • ••• ••

Latest TORMEK innovation

Turning Tool Setter [TTS-100 [ nA,rfA~l fingernail gouges and skews

Fingernail bowl or spindle gouges using SVO-185 Gouge Jig. Oval or flat skews even with curved edge using SVS-50 Multi Jig.

• Creates the ideal edge geometries recommended by skilled and professional turners.

• Exactly replicates the edge geometry in seconds - you just touch up the edge.

• Patented design - works irrespective of stone diameter or honing wheel.

A perfect and polished edge in 60 seconds. Remember - a TORMEK edge makes a finer cut and stays sharp longer!

( www.torrnek.com. Click o~' N; ws for full information.)

PRECISION MEASURING SYSTEMS KIT

As vou know your project s t urn out only as accurate as the wood that goes into it. Our Precision Measuring products help ensure that your materials t urn out flat. st raight and

square allowing vou to build your besti

See these Pllducts in action on our website' 800 447.8638 www.kregtool.com

A slick solution for portable-tool bases When culling soft woods with my jigsaw, the steel shoe (base) always left: unsightly marks on Ine workpiece. So I bought some self-adhesive polyester film (such as Mylar) at a crafts and hobby shop, and fit a piece to my saw's shoe. After thoroughly cleaning the shoe with alcohol to remove any oil or grease, I applied the sheet to the shoe, being careful not to trap any air bubbles.

Now my jigsaw glides on the workpiece without marring it. You could use the same material on your circular saw's shoe to protect the wood underneath.

-Rusty /l1fJram, Cedar Grove, N.J.

Suspended storage saves steps Workbenches work best ...men they're in the middle of the shop so you can move around the project. The problem: Your tools are usually stored around the perimeter of the shop. The solution: the tooJ storage shelf, shown below. It not only makes use of vacant overhead space-it saves time and labor, Shaped like a stirrup and mounted to the ceiling joists, you can configure it to your needs to hold small hand tools, clamps, screwdrivers, and whatever else you want to keep handy.

-&1d 8«*, Jr. , Land O'lAkes, Ra.

cnnlillued on fK18~ 26

Mount YOU'RE PROBABlX JUST As AMBITIOUS_

Shelf mounted over workbench

25

Whether you are a d()-it­yourseller. a prolessional woodworker or somewhere in between, you have a world lull 01 prOjects in the home or in tile sllop tllat will be easier and more enjoyable to complete when yOll use Qual­ity clamps. bench vises and miter boxes/saws Irom the Adjustable C~mp Company. Look lor them under the Jorgensen, Adjustable and Parry brand names wherever line tools are saki.

Made in the USA by the Adjustable Clamp Co., 433 North Ashland Ave., Chicago, IL 60622,

_coni

shop

Supports for dust­collection ductwork I needed a good way to install the main duct runs of my dust­collection system, and I wasn't looking forward to the prospect of trying to raise a network. of pipes to the ceiling by myself. The system shown at right, using 50· cable ·zip~ ties and furring strips, provided the solution.

I started by screwing furring strips to the joists along the path 1 wanted the dLICls to lake. I then laid the zip lies across the notches in the furnng strips and zipped the lies into large loops. Next. I fed the duct paris through the loops and joined them. With the ductwork still hanging low, I had no problem sealing all the way around the jOints. Once the duct was joined and sealed, I raised the entire labyrinth up to the ceiling by slowly ralcheting up the zip ties . •

-Bitt~, Alma. MiCh.

26

50~ C8~e Hes --II

DUllt-colieclion ductwork

WOOD ..... gu:iBe Oclober 2006

New 'Beiich Dog ~Pi-oducts Available in Foil 2006_ -P MAX .. ... O<IIr",*~c:aa/irOI1"",r...-r.,t>IoIln!~_"'~ ro ... 1.""'fItaff1t/ fO<Jrto. bit II<xag. ..t1It poA.OU/ !JhtJIvH.

.. D"_II9/1Oil wi!/! fIiII .. t.tn...", NIl Nllli"l1 ,-...

... ~~ ."dc_mad.iIl USA, Comploto Ro"lO. hbl.

.. U""1 .... ~<J{)~y fQt '1r:>rlo9 yotJ. """'"'" •• oMAl( c-,.Iet. _ .... _

«>'"M _ --...:.'AI "'"' _1M>It ... BOIl' .nd CfOn ,*,_1 COfI.lruclion ~rld (~fi Pr<>I.U.X ft>;f Ce /~1 '!HI '"~ fonlte IItrlmaie In .m.ngll> ~_c.oo>tI~l).Cr4) " 'ncJ_I{'d~s/P<Kt .

. -c. .. C~nlS (I~bM ~epM. Mly_

... Curved _ pa" .. ,. for Nofl...- ergooom~

... So/fd BaltIC bIrC~ pllMJl conofn.oction_

.. r.,DM lin 27- x 2Q' h.-gM. 3.'1-""

• .-.u:c-_ ......... T._ ___ CIO-«o< __ . No ~ __ c.w....-__

'RO_X 'ROFESSIONAL

CABINET 'I''''TU~':':';;~n ".-.MAX ~ 11._ T ••• -_ .... .-.,.""""" CaII-->x __ ~

""""_~J_ ---

ooo"'t~~.~-

PRO-BENCH~ : :==:::"...,~n..tr.1~nm~~ .. HI-Jo ~& sro_.

Preml .. m Wod'benches .. RfNjf s/ort>g9 .,..a lex f<xlIs e'ld ~ ... C.binet-:t/y/!> ba.~

... MoM. t .... reedy

... Fronr row Nr>C~ dey 1">01"

.. Pmmi<lfl'l ";s • •

50' MODEL SlOC": NO ' 0·015

1 ....... _H -­........ !D .... ~, :J"c.o.n..~ _ ___ I""",*,,

-'Opomoof~-_ .. _-"'--72- MODEL

STOCK NO. ' 11-08& ...-.-Nn-_ .."..... 1~ 1q> /IHI'l412). , c­{II-O(I-.(W3J. a..:o _ " .. (MOo(IIIn

---~

1

1720 RPM spindle speed. 2' 0,,111,1""'" . board spindle storage.

f 'ndles With on e 5 sizes 0 apl bTty and easy storag .

Compac;t design for mo II

Digital spindle speed display.

3 variable speed ranges ; 400·1000, 790.2000. 1500,3800. Pivoting headstock for outboard turning.

Mcxi.tl ZS-ZOO fYlJ

great ideas for your shop

router-bit holder and profile display

The best edge treatment is but a glance away.

See instantly what profile each of your router bib create by building thi ~

handy bit displtly with lnalChing pmfile.~. You can sit the bit support on your workbench or build the optional wall mount and secure if to a v~rlical surface. The bit suppon shown at right measure>: 8~ long. but can be lengthened to hold more bits and profiles. Add 1 lAM for each additional bit you wish to add. For large-diamclcr bit". such Il!> a panel raiser, you' ll need to lengthen il e .... en more. For 5n'k1Uer-diameter bits. an extm inch per bit should suffICe. We built our wall mount extra long for adding more bit .'>Upportll in the future.

To form the angled bit support, start with a piece of l ~x2l/..x8M stock . U'Itng a push.stick for safety, bevel-rip it a l 18°, and

1t8 x 2" F.H wood screw centereo over stud

Routed \ profile 1'r' ~-A. .",..... ,,-. ~ ~~ t V. hole '1" "'!,db<''':Cx:

v." dowet '12" long

, V~· deep. centered

shank hole, countersunk 00 back side

' " ..... ~' •• x 1" F.H. wood screw

OPTIONAL WALL MOUNT

2W BIT SUPPORT EXPLODED VJEW

use cloth-backed, double-faced tape to stid the two pieces together in the configuration sh()\\lll in the phol.o at left. Then drill VJ;"

holes Vl" deep into the support, and separate the support from the liCl'1Ip.

To create a profile lOr each bit yuu'll house in the bit !>upport, CUt blanks 8" long,

Stick the waste stock to the bit support, and and drill a V~ .. hole centered side (0 side and drililhe If.t" holes. ih" from one end. Now, rool each 8"-long

2B

blank with a different bit. Crosscul a I" -long section from each blank, and glue in a pic« o f \4" dowel W long in the previously drilled hole. The profiles can be removed from Ihe base so you can hold them up 10 an edge needing routing. It also gives you (he flexibility to rephlce bits and m(wc them as future needs dictate .• Project das~": Kavi" BowIe

WOOD ""'9u1na October 2006

And rhat~ .. !Oomething worth passing

CONTEST

Use your talent to win amazing prizes, .. and help find cures for childhood illnesses.

Y OU could win $5',000 worth of woodworking tools and accessories from Peachtree Woodworking Supply Inc. or one of many incredible prizes and help to raise money for St . Jude Children's Research Hospita~ by entering WOOD Magazine's Build -A-Gift Contest.

All woodworkers are encouraged to enter. There are 25 different GRAN D PR I Z E! ways, to win. Winners will be featured in the Feb~ry/March $5,000 of Woodworking Tools and Accessories 2007 Issue of WOOD M?gazlne and on WOOD Online. from Peachtree WOGdwolldng Supply Inc.

After judging, the handcrafted gifts you enter in WOOD Magazine's Build-A-Gift Contest will be sold at both a live and online auction to benefit St. Jude Children's

• Master Routing Package

• Saw Blade Package

• Shop Safety Package • Power Tool Package • Dust Collection Package

Research Hospital. Its mission is to find St. Jude Children's cures for children with catastrophic Research Hospital illnesses through research and treatment.

HW . P ........... , ... 4" No family ever pays St. Jude for treatment.

• Sanding Package • Drill Press Package • Clamping Package

• T-Track JIg & Rxture Package

• And Much Morel

So, when you enter your gift, not only do you have a chance to win a great prize. you are giving the gift of hope to the next generation.

Visit www.woodmagazlne.comJcontest lor complete Grand Prize list.

WOOD Magazine's Build-A-Gift Contest Entry Form-There is a limit of 3 total entries per person. Please send your project in a box no larger than 2x2x3'. Please submit a copy of this form with ~ project submitted.

OiIadline: November " 2006

I want to enror my entry in the foliowino caleoorv. olease check one: o Best Use of a Router

o Best Joinery o Best RniSl1 o BestTurned Gift o Best Home Accessory Gift o Best Clock o Best Holiday Themed Gift o Best Miniature Replica

CONTEST o Best Wooden Toy or Child's Gift o Best Jewelry or Keepsake 80x - -

Please check one: o My entry is an original design. I certify that I have designed and t>u ilt

this project myself. Signature: ____________ Date __ _

'::::J My entry is ooi lt from an existing p1an. Signature: ____________ Date __ _

Name ________________________________ __

Address _________________ ~

City ,-------------------------State/Province' ______ Zip/Postal CQde _____ _ fItlone _______ E·MaiJ (aplionaQ __________ __

Send Projects 10: WOOD Magazine's Build-A-Gitt Contest clo Sheryl Munyon 1716 locust Street (LS 221) Des Moines, IA 50309-3023 ----------" A Contest Entry Form is also available on our website: www.woodmagazine.comlcontest

Prizes and Sponsors

GRAND PRIZE! chtree Woodworking Supply Inc. ~Y .. ro.. s.. ~ 1r,,"_CaM

$5,000 of Woodwortdng Tools and Accessories from Peachtree Woodwortdng Supply Inc. THE ST • .JUDE AWARD

Preserlied to the entry that raises the most money through the auctioo . PowermaUc Deluxe 14" Closed Stand Bandsaw.

Aetail value $1,000.

BEST CRAFTSMANSHIP IN A PRO.JECT BUILT FROM AN EXISTING PLAN

BosclllO" Dual-Bevel Slide Miler Saw with Rne Rmshing and Solid SUrface PTolessional Series Circular Saw Blades. Retail value $900.

BEST ORIGINAL DESIGN General lnternatlonaJ 50-090K Job Site Table Saw. Retail value $680.

BEST USE OF WOOD Hitachi Cl0FSH 10· Sliding Dual Compoond Miter Saw with

laser Marter. Retail value 5500.

@ BOSCH

HITACHI POWER TOO LS

Each 01 the categories below havelwo Winners: One for "Original Design" and one for "Built from an Existing Plan."

BEST USE OF A ROUTER Freud FT1700vCEK 2-1/4 HP Variable Speed Fixed Based Router.

Retail value $18(1, Frewl RTP1000 Ultimate Portable Router Table. Retail value $200.

BEST .JOINERY Porter Cable 5116 Omnij\g. Retail value S3OO.

BEST FINISH

I PDRTER+tABIE I qJ~

Varathane® Prize PaCkage includes an assortment of Wood Stains, Polyurethane and Gare & Repair Products. Retail value $250. CELTA

T ... !kM-• .(,J!:O=-.. ..,.'5.~ ... __ I .~

_ moot too __ lit" 5:<10 p.on., on N_ I,:IDOI!. ~~".IJS ....... I ! ... __ "';oI_<lClnldl ~()JOboc)""' __ 1g00I......,.~1"IOi"r.r~0I

......" ~0I~. ""_""""' ... _ ..... .. ~. ___ (rilt...w:wt. __ ... ~

BEST TURNED GIFT Delta lA200 Midi Lathe. Retail value $300.

'"'-~ .......

BEST HOME ACCESSORY GIFT TItebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, ntebond Original Wood Glue,

ntebond PoIyu~thane Glue and more! Retail value $300.

BEST CLOCK Klockit Patriot Kit with unfinished clock case wood parts, hardware, dial, glass and quartz dual·chime movement.

Retail value $520.

BEST HOLIDAY THEMED GIFT Gorilla Glue 4 oz. (16 piete), Gorilla Tape (12 piece) and

Grolla Vest. Retail Value $285.

BEST MINIATURE REPLICA Makita 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Impact Driver Kit,

lBV power. , 2V weight. Retai l value $320.

BEST WOODEN TOY OR CHILD'S GIFT $250 Woodcraft Gift Certificate.

BEST .JEWELRY OR KEEPSAKE BOX Adjustabla Clamp prIZe package inCludes a variety of

Jorgenson and PoflY damps. Retail value $250.

T._.~W.(;N: __ ."'"",,"",-' __ "'" ""~_" _<JW _'"' _ Nt .... til fm\«"1IId,/<o_ _11 ~.2>11l._jSll61<ll "" to:. [_..,._"''' ... ~ _rW_Cttro ..... IOtrt'<m_ .. ,. .... oI~ ... _ ... onIrr1crm 11 _. __ ._ If<! _lfIIytro. *rig"""", '" \\oOXI 1~'IIIriOIII-A-IlI ~~S. II __ lT1a~llMI-lS

~0MItR_,

PrClOd""'" b1_._ ... ....:1 rd_ln:JoidrllNdp_A .......,~owv;fI"~~ ~""-"!'YfIIY ~"'UI""'" .... 11ng ,,-, ......... ""'........,,~ .... r.,_' ...

01 ... -=-. .. 01 ...... _ ... ___ .. _ Z21,lla_1/Io ~3 ~1o"'r __ "' ____ IoiIolt. "_"b1lO1llla.Qr:ll"'II'II __ "'~ . ..:I.~

tornll'll_"'b1_"'Sl.lGtctMto'._~ 01 ... __ ... _ ..... __ .-.

.. __ .... II.S.-..I;lr>o"""~_F,..~_ ...

-~-~-~

_dol. .....,, __ ,-.p:agoU ... ___ u"'_ &ra_rd __ .,.JI"IIII"'_ Sl ..... ~\AIIoIWo ...... ill~II:Q~._JIII(IiIII

"o:adIl!J01!l""'_,~TII381M_~_

""_"'Sl""'~l_1bIpIUI. --._ aQI . ..,b1_tlrC>:ll1ll8r;Sl""'Ooit.·._~

Log on to www.woodmtJgazine.com/contesttormorelnformationtJndfull contest rules on the Buifd-A-Gift Contest.

• and

kerfing jig 7"---- Rib t

To bend plywood or solid stock

you need to saw many uniformly

spaced kerfs. You'll quickly plow

through them with tms simple jig.

C utting closely spaced kerfs into the hack of a piece of stock and leaving a thin web of wood on

the front allows the workpiece to bcnd­ideal for forming a curved part. (For i.I kcrf­bending anatomy. see the photo at riglir,) WhClhL'f bending solid stock or plywood, uniform kerf spacing guarantees the best results. Here's how to make ajig for your table&aw miter gauge that'll accomplish the job wilh speed and accuracy.

First, from plywood, particleboard, or MDE cut a -Ytx2V4x I6" miter-gauge extension. Then cuI a Ih" saw kerf \1.1" deep centered in the extension, where shown at righl. Now rip a \Ig"-wide strip from the edge of a V4~ -thick piece of stock. cut a 1 \I2"-long piece, glue it into the extension kerf, and ~nd chamfers, where shown at right. (Centering the pin in the extension provides ample support on both the "infeed" and "outfeed" sides of the pin when kerfing II long strip of .... 'OOd.)

Put the jig to work To prevent chip-out at the back cdge of the wurkpiCt.-"C. fit your tablesaw with a zero-

ten Ihe extension 10 the miter gauge.

32

clearance insert. Then adjust the cutting height of the blade. For solid stock, adjust the blade ;.(jlhe cui leaves a lilt-thick web. For plywood, adjust the blade so it slightly cuts into the crossband direcIly under the face veneer, leaving a L/lb-Vx"-thick web.

Glue pin into kerf, flush at the back.

Now sel the kerf spacing and cut the kerfs, as shown in the photos below. [The photos show setting up and cutting Y .... -spaced kerfs for the aprons (F) of the bow-front table on page 62.1 .

KERFING JIG ~EXTENSION

~.~ ~1 6" ~ Sand slight chamfers --------= "'"7l along lop edges.

~"'ho X V4 Xl 1f~" PIN ".." saw kerf V4" deep

WOOD magaziJle O~ober aooo

avoidi

put the kibosh on • n\eaSurlng n1istakes AccurdCY in woo:iworking often boils down to

measuring correctly before machining anything. The following five tips should help you avoid common measuring goofs. First, though, we offer a few nuggel~ that apply to all work in your shop: • Double-check mca~urements before cutt ing. • Use the same mca~uring tape throughout your project, when possible, because minor inconsistencies from tape to tape can add up to major headaches. Sometimes, however, you might need specialty tapes, such as for center-fi nding or left-right readi ng. We'll show you these tapes and tell you where to fi nd them. • Before you do any cutti ng, check and adjust machines and accessories to male sure they are square. • Dry-fit your project before glue-up. That way you' ll get a chance to fi nd and wrn:cl assembly problems without being pressured by drying g lue.

FIND TRUE CENTER WITHOUT STRAINING YOUR BRAIN

Mistake: You've miscalculated while trying to find a workpi&C(l 's center. SollltiOI'l: Eliminate the chance for 8rr0r'3 in math by using a measuring tape with a half-scale on the lower level. This board measures~" in length, fop. TIle bottom row on tha tapa Indicates that the halfway point is 14''/,s", To maJ1l. the midpoint, go back to the top row, find 14''/,8" and make your mark, bottom. MeasurePro 16 ' centering tape. $15, PriceCutter.com; 8881288-2487

34

DON'T GET BURNED BY TAPE'S FIRST INCH

Mistake: You measured from the I " mark r ooming" the first inch), then forgot to add an inch when maJ1l.ing. Solution: First, use a steel rule Of folding rule that doesn't have the play of a retractable tape's hOOk. Second, il you must burn that Inch, make your mario;, top, then double-check It by mea­suring 3gain using the hook, bottom. This example shows how buminglhat inch resulted in greater accuracy, as the bottom measurement is '164" shorter than the tape ind icates.

USE LEFT/RIGHT TAPE FOR INVERTED MARKING

Mlsblke: When you hold the tape In your left hand so you can mark with your right hand, the numbers on most tapes read up­side down. That can lead to confusion, especially for unmarked fractions. Solution: Rather than try to figure out which mark is ¥t and which is, ~ for example, get a lett-reading measuring tape Of one that reads from both sides, as shown below. Fastcap 16' LeftylRighty, $6, Amazon.com

li"'l'iiii

How Do You Create Beautiful, Strong Entry Doors With A Router?

Thanks to Freud's latest patent-pending Innovation, you can create unique wooden doors with the security of durable mortise-and­tenon construction with extended tenons of virtually any length!

A beautiful, custom crafted wooden door can enhance any home, adding curb appeal and value to ltIe exterior and a warm decorative touch within. Traditional custom doors have been too expenslve for most homes, but this new router bit set from Freud has changed the equation. Now anyone with a suitable 1/2" collet router' can build beautiful, durable, affordable 1-318" and 1·3/4" thick Interior Extended or exterior doors - as well as sidelights and transoms· in any size or style!

This system leIs you build doors with true mortise-and-tenon construction , including extended tenons, for rock-solid joints that last a lifetime. No other router-based tooling has ever offered this capability with such ease of use. 111e DVD video and poster included with the set take you through all the steps, including routing, mortising, raised panels, glass installation and much more.

These bits feature Freud's exclusive TiCo"· Hi-Oenslty

Patent-Pending rail bit comes apart 10 rout extended tenons lor extm.-strong mortise

and tenon jointsl

Carbide designed and manufactured by Freud for a f!awtess finish in mH1worXing applications. They also feature Freud's Perma-5HIELoe permanent coating to reduce heat and corrosion for long cutting life. Visit your Freud dealer and see the latest in router bit design and innovation today!

-A"*'Irn(m 3HP II)tn.t' ~o.d. Some 2-114HP rtJUtIorI _1ICClIIp!aIlII;. ODf"oI\A)'OlJ" _ ~ ~ beIoIe using.-.y rouWior biI:

To sign up for Freud's e-mail newsletter o r to f ind a dealer near you VIsit: www.treudtools_com Red router bit. are 0 registered trademark of Freud America. 'nc. (US) 1-800-472-7307 (Canada) 1-800-263-1018

avoiding \Norkshop goofs

DON'T DOUBLE THE CORRECTION; HALVE IT

Mistake: You remavad double the intended amount when l ine­tuning a tenon to lit a mortise, instead of half from each side. Solution: To avoid cutting too much off a tenon when maKing microadjustments, leave reminders where they will be seen. Write the word ~haJf" 00 the tenon cheeks and also on a piece of tape near the line adjustment knob of yom tenoning jig, as shown. Then split the difference between both sides when you need to remove more. Similar errors can happen when machining half­laps, and the solution works the same.

36

• 3 Year Factory Warranty on ALL

Festool Tools • McFeely's

Honors All FESTOOL Specials

• Top rated Tools that Work as a SYSTEM

USE STOPBLOCKS TO MAKE REPETITIVE CUTS

Mistake: Individually measuring and cutting each one of multiple, matching workpieces (picture frame sides, for example), leaving slight discrepancies in actual dimensions. Solution: Eliminate culling each piece to a pencil mar1(.lnstead, use a stopblock clamped to a fooce Of miter gauge, as shown, to ensure each workpiece will be exactly the same length, •

WOOD magWnfl October ZOO6

LOOK A TYPICAL TABLE SAW CAN DO. COII\'crt your lable saw into a molder \lith the Magic Molder .

MAGIC MOlDER .

9250 1IIH~ •• ~e"u AYe thals •• rli CA 11311 '11 712 0221i Ir FAJ( 118 ,n 7102 Email ul .... I'hul elm 'Nlh,le .ww Ir~enl elm ...

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height adjustments. Sl.uniy V4" thick MDF core, durahle melamine ~If:a ard poJ)'ethy\E:roe edges. Extension fences on 00th silb ti the rolltel' plate give maximum r.tock support. The 3/8" thick roulPr plate is rdd hy ."'~ ru,m;;"", ",",",. arK! tv.u locking knohi

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eready-to-seibinet Keep your favorite wines, stemware, and serving accessories handy in this stylish unit.

D on't leI the sophisticated look of th;.~ pmject fool you. With straightforward case and drawer con­structioo, a full-size pattern for forming the feet,

and ea~y-to-shilpe wineglass holders, you'll complete it in a jiffy and have plenty of rea<;(lnS to toast your success.

Start with the case

1 Fmm W' cherry plywood. CUI the sides (A), sub-lop and shelf (B). and bottom (C) to the sizes listed in the

Materials List.

2Cu1 a ¥.' dado II.nd rabbet Jh" deep across the inside face oeeach side (A). where dimensioned on Drawing 1, to fit

I!ll RAIL-TENON DETAIL

'4" grOOll'es \tIio" deep \II. from edges

••

'I. chamfers stoJ.l)ed :::::,J 2" from ends 1---.... 16•

1 'h'~ ... ~.~.

the sub-top and shelf (8). TIlen, on the same face of each side. cut a v." rabbet %" deep along the back edge to house the plywood back (I).

3From W'-thick cherry, cut the stiles (0 ) to size. Then rout W' chamfers, stopped 2" from the ends, along

both edges on the front faces of the stiles. where shown. For an easy way to do this without tear-out, see the Shop Tip. page 40, top.

4G1ue and clamp the stiles (0 ) to the sides (A). where shown on Drawing 1, flush with the ends and outside

faces of the sides. After the glue dries. sand the assemblies to 220 grit.

n EXPLODED VIEW

wood screw

<D

pilot hole 1 y.." deep

.';:;;;-.J.;~~;~;~~~~~~! shank hole. countersunk on botlom face ¥eo rc x 2' F.H. wood screw

11." grooves 11." deep-<:::" V,. from edges

4"

K ~--1 -~\j4W

~14¥."~rt: 1

,,..0 raund-overs

39

Don't get burned routing stopped chamfers

Ever experienced tear-out or burning when routing a stopped chamfer? Tear-out can happen if you rout the entire chamfer in one pass. Burning occurs if the spinning bit lingers in one spot, so you need to quickly pull the part away from the bit at the end of the chamfer. Here's an easy way to avoid these problems. With the part on edge and against a stopolock, rotate the part into the bit, as shown at right. Without hesitating, rout about two-thirds the length of Ihe chamfer. Then flip the part end -far-and and reposition it against the stopblock with the face down and partially chamfered edge toward the lence, as shown at far right. Rout again, slopping when you pass the previously chamfered area.

YC

'14' rabbet '118" deep

~ '" , r -Q

- ~'.-~ 7 ' " 0

Rotate part into bit and rout about two-thirds of chamfer length.

. /

'" ¥,,,,' shank hole, countersunk

on bottom lace

T ® 15'1'. "

SHELF ~

v. cnamfers '/8" chamfers on Iront

end file<! and sanded

L .

H

'''" %;," shank hole, countersunk

40

on bottom lace

Bll OUTER HOLDER SECTION VIEW DETAIL

'4" chamfer

-1 ,or---I ' 1

I ~I: ,,;" ( (s) I e",,,"c""'haLo"<""hoIe=',-____ 7\-;.>--'

countersunk '

~. pilot hole 'fl' deep

" snank hate, oountersunk

on bottom lace at S"

1,1," chamfers

51n the sub-top (B), drill a pair of counter­sunk mounting holes in the bottom face

and a pair of V12" expansion slots ·W' long for attaching tbe top (0) later, where dimen­sioned on Drawing 2. Drill overlapping holes to form the ~lots.

6From Y4"-thick cherry planed to match the thickness of the plywood txJttom (C),

miter-cut the bottom front trim (E) and side trim (F) to the ,~izes listed. Glue and damp the trim to the bottom, noting that the non­mitered back ends of the side trim overhang the bottom W. After the glue dries, rout a %" round-over along the top and bottom edges of the trim. Sand the assembly smooth.

7From %"-thick edge-joined cherry, cut the top (0) to si7.e. Then mut %" mund­

overs along the top and bottom edges on the ends and front to create a bullnose profile. Sand the top smooth.

Now glue the case together

I Dry-assemble the sides/stiles (AiD) and suh-top and ~hclf(B), and verify that the

parts fit together correctly. Make any needed adjustments. Then glue and clamp the parts together, as shown in Photo A.

2Mcasure between the »tiles (D) for the exad length of the sub-top and shelf trim

(H). where shown on Drawings 1 and 2. Then, from W'-thick eherry rcsawn or planed to 1/4" and ripped to match the thickness of the Y4" plywoOO sub-top and shelf (B), cross­cut the trim to the measured length. Cut an extrd piece from ¥4" scrap to the same length for use as a spacer to complete the case assembly. Glue and clamp the trim in place, flush with the top and bottom faces of the sub-top and shelf. Sand smooth.

thai the sub-top and , are the rabbeted back edges of the sides (A).

Drill overlapping holes to form 1 ,~~!~~ ¥II" deep in the face and edge of the foot blank, where shown on the pattern.

3PosifiOO the case with the back down. Using the spacer to maintain the correct

distance between the stiles (D) at the bottom, clamp (do not glue) the bottom/trim assem­bly (C/E/F) and spacer to the case, as shown in Photo B. Then drill mounting holes through the bottom (e) and centered into the side:> (A), where shown on Drawing 1. Drive the #8x2" flathead wood screws.

4TO mount the top (0), position it with the bol/om faceup on your workbench. Then

place the case. with the sub-top (B) down, 00 the top, centered side-to-side and flush at the hack. Mark the centers of the mounting holes and slots in the sub-top on the top, as shown in Photo C. Remove the ca<>e, and drill pilo!: holes into the top at the marked centerpoints. Reposition the ca.<>e. Now, using a shon screwdriver. fasten the top with #8xlW' Ilathcad wo(xi screws and #8xl Vl panhead screws with #10 flat washers, where shown on Drawing 1.

SFrom W' cherry plywood, cut the back (l) to size to fit the rabbeted opening in

the case. Position the b.'lCk in the case, tight against the top (G). Drill mounting holes fhrough the back and into the case, wh~re

centered slde-Io-side, to the case, 0;1' It,. spacer tight between the stiles (0).

;1 together, keeping the top surfaces flush. Measure the diagonals to verity square.

shown. Then remove the back, sand it smooth, and sct it aside.

Move down to the base

1 From laminated ·W-thick cherry (or Ivt­thick stock), cut two 2x90." blanks to

form the feet (J). You'll get two feet from each blank.

2Make two copies of the full-sire foot pat­tern from the WOOD Patterns. insert.

Spray-adhere a pattern to each blank, folding the pallcrn wtX..'TC shown. Using a I/~" brad­poin! bil in your drill press,driIIIW' mortises 9/16" deep in lhe face and edge of each blank, where shown on the pattern and as shown in Photo D. Then, using sharp chisels, square the ends and sides of the mortises.

3Bandsaw and drum-sand each blank to the pattern lines. but do not separate the

feet. Using a ~" round-over bit in your table­mounted rouler, round over the edges and ends of the blanks on both racc~, where shown on the pattern and Drawing 1. Sand the routed edges smooth.

4 uSing an extension on )'Our tablesaw miter gauge for support, and a stopb1ock:

to ensure identical lengths, crosscut two

Using a ~" brad-poim bit, mark the centers of the mounting holes and slots in the sub­top (B) on the bottom face of the top (G).

40."-1008 feet from each blank, where shown on the pattern.

SCut the rails (K) to size. Using a dado blade in your tablesaw, form a 1/." tenon

V:J:" long at each end ofthc rails, where shown on Drawings 1 and 1a, to fit snugly into the foot morti~s. (We made test-cut.<; in cutoffs to verify our setup before cutting the rail tenons.) After cutting the tenon cheeks. set the rails on the tx)lIom edge ... and cut the ends again to trim the Pl.t-wide tenOrL<; to tw.

6Refit your tablesaw with a standard W ­kerf blade. Then cut a pair of W'-deep

grooves VI"" fmm each face of the rails along the top edges. where dimensioned on Draw­ing 1a. The gmoves capture glue squeeze-(nlt when mounting the base to the case. Sand the rails smooth.

7Dry-as.<.;emble the feet (1) and rails (K), and verify that the parts fit together cor­

rectly. Then glue Ilnddamp the base together, as shown in Photo E.

8Place the case on the floor with the bot­tom up. Apply glue to the area on the

rails (K) between the W grooves. Now posi­tion and clamp the base (J/K) to the bottom of the ca...c, a.<; shown in Photo F.

41

Yo" grooves V .. deep y." trom bottom edge

ID MACHINING THE DRAWER PA~R",T::S~ _ _ ~~ __ ~ STEP 1 STEP 2

Au~ il iary wood lance

, Tablesaw

Inside lace

Outside

"00

Auxil iary w_ fence

i-'-:::::- dJ w

%" dado blade

fence

dado b,=:-1 t=~~~Jl~;,,=j

Now head up to the drawer

I From ¥4"-thick chelTY. cut the dmwer front (L) to size. Then, from ¥.~ stock

planed to W', cut the back (M) and sides (N) to size.

2Fit your tablesaw with a 1/4" dado blade, Then, referring to Drawings 3 and 3a and

the four-step Drawing 4. machine the grooves. rabbets, and dadoes in the dra .... 'er parts. When cutti ng the W'-deep grooves I/.~ from the bottom edges in the fmnt (L) and sides (N) to receive thc W' plywood bottom (0), switch to a standard W'-kerf hlade and cUl the: grooves to width in two passes to snugly ti t your plywood,

42

3USing a 45° cham fe r bit in your table­mounted router. rout a W' chamfer across

the ends and along the edges of the drawer front (L) on the front face, where shown on Drawing 3. Then drill an 1Ih.4" hole, centered, through the from for screw-mounting a 11/4" knob later.

4From 1/4" cherry plywood, cut the bottom (0) to size. Sand all of the drawer part.~

smooth. Then glue and clamp the front (L). back (M), and sides (N) together, keeping the top edges of the back and sides flush. Check for square. Now slide the bottom (do not glue) in place, and secure it to the back with #18xV.t brads.

Ill! DRAWER JOINT DETAIL -

"" .~' 13 ~ @ 'I.

l=t)-

~ I-{C v.' :..:i w- © IJ W":J --

'/eO chamfer

Il'I CASE SIDE SECTION VIEW

liD 11 (§)

CD

®

w @ --,-~

liD IQl ®

5From ¥i'-thick cherry, cut the drawer cleats (P) and stop (Q) to the sizes listed.

Position the cleats (withom glue) in the eR,<;e. tight against the sides (A) and stiles (D). Slide the drawer into place, and verify that it moves smoothly. Iflight. remove the drawer, and plane or sand the cleat." as needed to achieve the desired fit. Then glue and clamp the cleats into posi tion.

60ry-Clamp the stop (Q) to the shelf (B), centered side-to-side and flu sh at the

back. Slide the drawer into the case until it contacts the stop. Verify thaI the front (L) overhangs the shel f tr im (H) W', where shown on Drawing 5. If the overhang is greater than W', trim the stop width. as needed. If the overhang i ~ less than W', posi­tion the drawer with a W' overhang, and glue and clamp the block to the shelf tight against the drawer back (M). Remove thc drawer.

WOOD m aqa2ine OctOb<oT 2006

Shape the wineglass holders in 4 quick steps It's easy to cullhe rabbets in the wineglass holders and chamfer the edges using a standard blade in your tablesaw. Here's how.

STEP 1 Raise your blade 111.r" above a zero-clearance insert, and position the fence V'- ' rom the inside 01 the blade. Using a pushblock., pustlstick, and feather board for safety, rip the outer holders (5) along one edge and in(\(!( holders (A) along botfl edges, keeping the same face against the fence.

STEP 2 lower the blade to ""' ", and reposition the fence 2V." from the Inside of the blade. With the top face of an inner holder (R) down, cut the piece, turn it end-for-end, and cut it again to complete the rabbets. FOf stability, keep the push block centered on the holder. Repeat for the other inner holder.

STEP 3 With the I i the inside of the blade. an ouler holder (S) tight against the

T~,~h~~~:~,t~;~:~::'4~~:~ holders, switCh your ,1O.od"" blade insert. Ti lt the , and raise it :V.-. Position Ihe fence,

fence with the top face down, cut the piece to complete the rabbet. Hold the pushbiock snug to the fence to keep the part stable. Repeat tOf the other holdS(.

as shown, and cut a ~- chamfer along both edg&S of the inner hold­ers (R). Then reposition the fence, and chamfer the inside edge of the outer holders (S).

Add the wineglass holders

1 From ¥4~-thick cherry, cut the wineglass inner and outer holders (R, S) to the sizes

listed. Using a standard hlade in your tablesaw, cut Ith" nlhbel~ Lf.{' deep in the holders, where shown on Drawing 2. making two cuts to form each rabbet. T hen bevel-r ip a t;f' chamfer along tile edgn (not ends) of the holders, where shown. For help with cut­t i ng the rabbets and cham fers, see the side­bar, "Shape the wineglass holders in 4 quick

steps," above.

2 Using a wood or cabinet file, funn a V8" chamfer on the front ends of the inner

and outcr holders (R S), where shO'Wn on Drawing 2.

3Dri ll counlersunk mounting holes in the bottom faces of the holders (R, S), angling

the holes in the ouler holders (8) at 8°, where sh(Wl[} on Drawing 2a. Sand the hoklers.

4TO mount the holders (R , S) in the case, position the case with the top (G) down

and supported on 4x4 spacers for clamp clearance. as shown in Photo G. From W '

With the inner and outer ho lders (R, S) clampetf in position with 1 V.."-wide spacers between them, drill pilol hole$ Inlo the shelf

(6 ) and drive the screws.

43

scrap, cut a lY16x12" piece. Then crosscut six l¥." -long pieces for spacer~. Position the holders (without glue) on the shelf (B), flush at the back edge, with the lVl<s"-wide spacers between them, as shown. Clamp the holders into place. Using the mounting holes in the holders as guides, drill pilot holes into the shelf. Drive the screws. For easy fini~hing later, remove the screws and holders, mark the holder locations. and set them aside.

Time for the shelves

1 From h " cherry plywood, cut the shelves (T) and dividers (U) to the sires listed.

Then, from -¥.!"-thick cherry planed to match the plywood thickness, cut the shelf trim (V) and divider trim (W) to the given sizes,

2As you did for the base rails (K), eut a pair of Vs" glue· relief grooves along the

top edges of the dividers (U), where shown on Drawing 1.

3GlUe and clamp the shelf trim (V) to the shelves (Tl, and the divider trim (Wl to

the dividers (0), keeping the ends and edges flush. Sand smooth. Then glue and clamp the dividers (U/W) to the bottom of the shelves (TN) where dimensioned, keeping the parts

Cutting Diagran>

:Y. x 7V. x 00' Cnerry (5.3 bd. ft.)

flush at the back. (The shelf trim overhangs the divider trim W' at the front.)

Finish up

l As needed, sand any areas of the case, back, drawer, wineglass holders, and

shelves to 220 grit and remove the dust.

2Apply a slain, if you wish, and clear fin­ish. (We applied Varathane Premium

W[)(xl Stain No. 245 Traditional Cherry, fol­lowed by two coats of satin AquaZar Water­Based Polyurethane, sanding to 320 grit between coats.)

3Whell the finish dries, remount the wine­gla~s holders (R, S). Then fasten the back

to the ca~e with #4x%" nathead wood screws. Attach a lV4" knob to the drawer using the screw supplied with the knob. Fora smooth·gliding drawer, apply paraffin wax to the dcats (P) and bottom edges of the sides (N). Install the drawer and shelves in the case. Now fill the cahinet with your favorite wines, wineglasses, and accessories, pop a cork., and celebrate your fine work! •

Written by Owen Duvall with Chuck Hedlund Project design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

~ I @

(0 •

@

'Plane or rasaw to lt1e thicknesses listed in the Materials List.

.' . - '" =: .. . .@

¥. x 7'/. x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft .)

II :v. x 5 ';2 x 4a' Ct1erry (2 bd. ft. )

©

II- ----'---,L- --'.----,L--.L..l..,..L-.J....L.-,

® ® @ @

I :v. x 48 x 96' Cherry plywood

44

Materials List fINIS~ED ~Il<

Case T W l Ma~ oty

A .." ¥,' W ""W CP , , ..,'" Yo" 15'1',' 16' CP , ..... C """" Yo" 16W 16* ' CP

D "'" W tv.." JaW C , E oottom front trim Yo" Yo" ". C

F bottom skle trim W Yo" 1f.W C , G .. Yo" 171io" ". EC

H Sl.b·toJl <n.I w ¥, ' 13'1'. C 2 lhltftrim

I>d< w W 31>!.' CP

J' "'" 'W ,. 4'h" LC , K oj, ¥." 'W 14¥,' C , Drawer

L """ ¥o" "'I,.' '''''. C

M ... W ,. 13W C

N - W 4'1 .. ' 14'1',' C , D """" ,,' 1314' t41/o" CP

P "". ... ''1'',. I5\'. C , a "" :Y,' Iv.- ,. C

WIneglass hoklers

R imer hoIcIars 15¥,' C 2

S ooter hdders '1". 2v.' t5¥' C 2

Shelves

T ...,.. :y .. 14''1',0' 15Y,.' CP 3

U ""'" '4-'. t40/,.' 4' CP 6

V shEff trim :Y,' -Yo 15¥..' C 3

Materials key: CP-d1erTY plywood, C-<herry, EG-OOge-)oiled cherry, lC-lamir.atM cneuy. Supplies: fll~2· flathead wood screws (6), 1S~1\!" ftathead wood scr~ (14).IS~l V" panhead screws (2) , Ux.jol' 1lalhead wood screws It2), .to Hat washers (21. spray act.&­sive, "8xf. tIrads, 1 Yl satirHlictel knob (avaitable at )'OUI local home CfIIlt8l' or tlardware store), paratlin"!'l'l!X.

BlIICIe and bits: Dado-bladl! set, ",,' and .joI' rolloo-ovar and 45' chamfer router bits, ,;/ and ~' tIrad-polllt tJits.

@

CD

. 'I, x 48 x 48 Cherry plywood

Now. tum a $5_00 rough board info $75.00 worth of high-dollor molding in just minutes. Make over 500 standard patterns. curved molding , longue & groove, p icture frame stock, any custom design. QUICKLY CONVERTS from Molder/Planer to Drum Sander or power­feed Multi-Blade Ripsaw. Made in U.S.A. 5·Yeor Warranty. Choose from 12" , 18" or 25~ models.

Va,/a"'. F •• d Malr •• "'. DIH.,." •• , Just a twist 01 the cJioI odiu~ the 'vVoodmasler from 70 10 over 1 ,(xx) cuI! per inch. ProdllC:& a 91o~ fi nish on trdy groin patterns no other planer con handle. Plenty of American­made "muscle'" 10 handle mooey-soving, "straigh...&om.lhMOWmiU'" lumber. Ideal for high-Yolue OJrved molding.

• S"a,. ... U,,,,,, •• /d •• pe, ,. .... , • cr. .... 'rom 500+ ,._,,,,1 • RISK FRff 30o D .. ,

fri .. , ONe,! ... _ .....

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1-1/2 days, we surfaced 2,500 boaI'd feet of hickory. Ourt'MJ famiNes ale malong a IJlOd liYirtg.1f ~ hao.e a Wlodmastef lIod II table saw, )OtJ (3'l male II (POd IMng making molding."

- James Tulley. Black Hawk SD

ADD OUR IOUIII Ill.) ~ 21

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CRill No. 1 820

shop'-in-a-box

tool cabinet

L ooking for an easy-to-build project that makes a really big impact on reducing shop dutter and improving

work efficicm:y'! Here it is. With identical case and door construction using simple rabbet-and-gnxlVc joinery, you can make this cabinet in a few c\'cnings or a weekend. For materials, you need only a 4x8 sheet each of W' perforated hardboard and h" plywood. plus a guaner-sheet of \14" hardboard.

Start with the case

1 From .'/4" plywood. cullhe sides (A) and top and bottom (B) 10 the sizes listed in

the Materials List. (We used Baltic birch plywood. which we found at a local home center, and applied a dear finish.lfyoo plan to paint the unit. you can use Jess-expensive type AC or Be plywood.) Because the thickness of plywood varies, you Inay need

46

Keep tools, hardware, and supplies organized in this space~ saving, 4-door cabinet. Though it occupies little more than 7 square feet of wall area, it offers a full 26 square feet of storage on the perforated-hardboard panels alone!

to slightly adjust the sires of some parts and the mating dadoes and rabbets.

2 Mark centerpoillts for 114" holes W' deep for shelf supports on the inside faces of

the sides (A), where dimensioned on Draw­ing 1. Drill the holes using a hrad-point bit in your drill press. Adjust the depth stop for consistent drilling depth.

3Fi' your tabJesaw with an auxiliary fence and dado bladc that malches the thick­

ness of your %" plywood. Then cut a Ys"-deep rabbet across the inside faces or the sides (A) al each end, as shown in Photo A.

4TO cut a 1/4" groove ¥It deep in {he sides (A) and top and bottum (B) to fit your

W' perforated hardboard for the hack (C), where dimensioned on Drawings 1 tmd 2, switch to a standard 1,i"-kcrf blade in your tablesaw. Position the fence ¥4" from the inside of the blade. Then cut a groove along

Though the case measures just 12"." deep, it houses all four doors when closed.

WOOD mag""I.... OctO~T ZOO€

light against an auxil iary lence and miter-gauge extension, cut a rabbet across each end on the inSide lace.

the back edges of the silks, top, and bottmll on the inside faces. Now repo­sition the fence, as needed, and cut the grooves to fina l width to snugly fit the hardboard. Sand Ihe parts smooth to 180 grit.

5From y." perforated hardroard. cut a 3P14"-square piece for the

back (C). Then dry-assemble the sides (A), top and bouom (B), and back, and check that the part" fit together correctly. Make any needed adjusl­menls. Now glue and damp the case together, measuring for equal diago­nals to verify square. Drill mounting holes through the sides and into the top and bottom, where shO\vn on Drawing :2, and drive the screws.

6Frnm W' birch plywood, cul the shelf (0) 10 size. Then, from your

V4H perforated-hardboard cutoffs., cut two 4x51/.t spacers. Position the shelf in the case on the 5Vt-tall spacers, as shown in Photo B. Drill the mounting holes, where dimensioned on Draw­ing 1. and drive the screws,

7From ¥~" plywood, cut the mount­ing deals (E) and spacer (F) to

1!hx31". Bevel-rip one edge of each cleat at 45°, leaving a \4" flat, where shown 011 Drawing :2a.

8Positioll the case on your work­bench with the back (C) up. Then

glue and clamp a mounting cleat (E) in place on the back, lighl against lhe top (8), in the orientation shown 00

Drawing :2a. From inside lhe case, drill mounting holes, centered in the holes in the perforaled-hardhoard back, into the mounling deat, where shown on Drawing :2. and drive the #8X:Y"4" flathead wood screws to f ur­

ther sirengthen The attachmenl. In the

wooclzna, .alac.oom.

i the shelf (0) on 5'hR _tali spacers and tight against the back (e). drill mounting holas through t he sides (A) Into the shetf.

FlI CLEAT MOUNTING DETAIL

'&

®

0

:y, ' rabbet ¥t' deep

©....

0

:V," I--

::: ® 118 x 2w" F.H.

' .. , '111\ wood screw

Ir.s~ ,j\ ' w L_~. ®=..!:I ..-l-

Walt mounting cleat

MagnetiC catches

Ita J( 3' F.H. wood screw driven into watl

D CASE SIDE (Inside face of left side shown)

.vol' rabbel "" deep I'''' 2 Yo1' , r-• • n .. ..

32W location 01 ® outer·door .... ,. cont inuous

hinge

• Vol' l"IoIe Location of • W deep inner-door •

I continuous . [ " • hinge

'1 V,' groove W deep

i • I • 'Y,' from 4W ; back edge

v,' i ~ ! • • Location • • • ofparl

"..". shank : "I I @ holes. il. i • -. countersunk !. : VI' "I.. on outside i • i face 5 Y,'

'" :l1 • i ,.. , :V. rabbet ~. deep • • •

I . . 1 12~'

Note: Right side@is a mirror image.

iii CASE

Vol' groove ¥t' deep :V. from back edge

Ita x 2" F.H. wood screw

\

®

,/. groove :»" deep ¥.' from back edge \IY,~;'

47

AUgn tile inner-door hinge with the marked linea, and press the taped hll'lge in place. Then drill the mounting holes.

same way. glue and screw the spacer (F) to the back, tight against the bottom (8).

9From V," hardboard, cut a ~x31" strip for the bin stop (G). Glue and damp the

stop to the bottom (B), 4W' from the front edge. where dimensioned on Dr8wing 2.

1 OFfOm ~~ plywood. CUI the shelves (H) to size, and set them aside.

Now build the doors

I To ensure that the outer and inner door~ fil into the case with W' clearance at the

top and bouom. where shown on Drawing 1. mea~ure the ojX--nings between lhe lOp and bottom (8) for the outer doors and the top Ilnd shelf (D) for the inner door... Then, from :y..~ plywood. cut the ooler-door sides (I) and inner-door sides (J) to the sizes listed and lengths equal to your measured open­ings minus W'. (Our s ides measured ~~ for the outer doors and 24lh" for the mner dfXlrs.) Also, cut lhe tops and bottoms (K) for the Cluter and inner doors to size.

2From W' perfordtcd hardboanl. cut the outer- and inller-d<XJr panels (L, M) to

the sizes listed.

3USing a dado blade in your lablesaw. cut a ¥,." rdbbct ¥a" deep across the ends of

each outer- and inner-door side (I. J) on the illsid~ face, where shown on DrawIng 3.

4TO cut I/.I~ grooves ~~ deep in the door sides (T, J) and tops and tx>\Ioms (K),

where dimensioned on Drawing 3a, switch tn a ~tandard W -kerf blade. Position the fence 111l" from the inside of the blade. Then cut a pairofgroO\'Cs along the iluide face of each part, rotating the part end to end between CUl~. Now mO\~ the fence away from the blade as needed, and cut the pans again 10 widen the grooves and achieve a snug fit with your perfcnted-hardbo..1rd panels (L. M).

5Sand the door sides (I, J), tops and bot­toms (K), and panels (L. M) to 180 grit.

48

Position a hinge on an 1'00"'.00".'.' (.1) with a 'II" overhang . Measure from the to the hinge to find the spacer width.

Clamp tne spacer to the door, flush with the back edge. WIth the hinge tight agafnst the spacer. drill the mounting holes.

IBDOOR (Left door shown, viewed from back)

1 W cootlflUOUS hinge , • I hoi " ~ • 30¥.' IotIg for outer door ~ plot e''" .......... ~~ ~24Y.z'longforlnnerdoor

~--®.-~ .' ~" shankOOle . ~~t~' • • ....

counlersunk \ ............ .....

-~f #8 x 2" F.H. wood screw

\

\ 3<»''' for partC!) 24Yl' for partQ)

\

\

~. I

Location 01 strike plale on pan(£) 1

J---~ \ r-

· . .... ' .' " ...... . .. : .. . " .. , . : ... . . . .. .. . . : .... · .. · .....

• .' ~!-\4'4' •

· · ... · .. • •• • •• · .. · .' · . .. · . ..

· .: .' :i;~"''''-· .

4w l'~ \ 1\ Localion of strike plale on panQ)

grooves de,p

.y .. rabbet 'hi" deep

Then glue and clamp each door together, checking for !.Quare. Drill mounting holes Ihrough the side. .. and into the lOp:> and bot­toms, where shown on Drawing 3, and drive the screws. For ease in mounting the hinges and installing the doors Imer, identify the lop (K) of each door and the side (I, J) that you'll hinge-muunt Wlhe case.

m DOOR GROOVE DETAIL

the screws.

Add the easy-to-make bins

I From ¥4" plywood, cut the fronts (N) and backs (0) tor the eight bins to the

sizes listed. Then, from \14" hardboard, {;ut the sides (P) and bottoms (Q) to size.

2Lay out the angled edge on a side (P), where dimen:,ioned on Drawing 4.

Bandsaw or scrollsaw to the marked line, and sand smooth. Using this piece as a tem­plate, mart the angle on the remaining side picn:.", and cut and sand them to shape.

3Sand the fronts (N), backs (0), sides (P), and bottoms (Q) to 180 grit. Then glue

and damp the parts together in the configu­ration shown.

Sand, then apply the finish

l lfnccded, fill any voids in the plywood edge, with a paintable wood putty, and

sand smOO(h when dry. Then sand any areas of the case, doors, shelves, and bins that need it to 180 grit. and ease any sharp edges. Remove the dust.

2 Apply two coats of a clear finish, sand­ing hetween coats. (We applied

Varathane Diamond Water-Based Polyure­thane, satin finish, sanding to 320 grit between coats.)

Complete the assembly

I Measure the lenglh~ of the outer- and inner-door ."iides (I, J). Then. from t W(J

1V2x4R" continuous hinges for the outer d~ and two l\l'lx30" hinges for the inner dOOl"S, hacksaw the pieces to the measured lengths. To m<lintain the correct orientatioo of the hinges during assembly, mark the manufactured (uncut) end~ "top."

2TO position the hinges on the case sides (A), where dimensioned on Drawing 1,

ptace the case on the left side. Draw align­ment line." on maSking tape \Iir;" from the top and bottom (B) for the outer-dooI' hinge and

~::5:?:~~:~,~enterli"e 00 shelf (0). Man.:. tile centers of the slots.

ViI" from the top and shelf (D) for tile inner­door hi nge to center the hinges top-to-bottom. Then, to position the barrel ofthe inner-door hinge W' from the front of the shelf so the door do:.es nush with the shelf. adjust a combination square to the distance from the front edge of the side to the shelf less YIt. (We set our square to 4Vi'.) Now mark inter­secting lines u~;ng the squan:.

3TO mount the inner-door hinge, apply a few small pieces of clOlh-backed double­

faced tape to the casc-f,iJc hin!:,'C leaf. With the hinge leaves positioned at 90" and the markt.'(] top cnd of the hinge correctly ori­ented., align the hinge with the marh, as shown in Photo C, and press it in place. Using a self-ccntcring bit, drill the mounting holes. Drive the screws, supplied with the hinge, in the two top and bottom holes to prethre<td them for easier mounting of the II CABINET

DBIN

4TO mount thehingcs on thcdoors, where shown on Drawing 5, place a hinge for

an inner door along the front edge of the side (1) identified for hinge-mounting to the case. With the hinge leaves positioned at 90°, the top of the hinge at the top of the door, and the end" flush, align the hinge so that the barrel overhangs the edge Ih,".

Next, to ea.<'ily keep the hinge aligned, measure from the back of the door to the hinge for a spacer, as shown in Photo D. (We measured 3v..~.) llIcn, from 1/4" hard· board, cut a 20" -long piece to your measured width. Now clamp the spacer \0 the door and mount the hinge. as shown in Photo E, driving all of the screws. Repeat for the other dDon;.

5pOSition the case on the right side (A), arxl screw-mount the right inner door, as

shov.·n in Photo F. Raise the door to the closed position. Then mount the right outer door. Using a helper. reposition the case 00 the left side. MOUn! the remaining dOOf'i.

door later. Then ~f~~~~~~g~~i~~\;~~~~~ remove the screws, hinge, and tape.

In the same way, mount the outer­door hinge, eltcep!: position it so that the barrel over­hang.~ the front edge of the case W'. Usc a combi­nation square or a W -wide strip of W' hardboard as an alignment aid to set the hinge overhang. Now reposition the case on the right side (A). and repeat the hinge marking and mounting process. Note: Right outer door removed lor clarity.

49

GTO mount magnetic catches to hold the doors closed, where shown on Drawing 2,

position the strike plates on the hack edges of the inside door sides (I, 1), where dimen­sioned on Drawing 3. noting the different locations for the outer and inner doors. Dri ll the pilot holes, and drive the screws supplied with the catches.

Next, matt the center of the shel f (D) on a piece of masking tape positioned behind the inner doors, as shown ill Photo G. Mate a catch to the strike plate on the left inner door. Holding the front of the door and shelf flush, align the catch with the centerline, as shown. Mark the centers of the mounting slots. Drill the holes, remove the tape, and screw-mount the catch. In the same way. mount the catch for the right inner door, tight again&( the left-door catch. Then mark the center of the shelf (0) on the bottom face at the front edge. Now mount the catches for the Quter doors, aligning the catches with the centerline.

7TO mount the unit, ttold the remaining mounting cleat (E) btl on your wall

with the beveled edge positioned where shown on Drawings 2 and 2a. Dril l counter-

Cutting Diagraxn '0 0

,- '1,1' I : ,

J K K

J K K .. ., J K K

" , K K

® ®

® ® ,

¥o J( 48 J( 96 Baltic birch plywood

50

Lock hooks to perforated hardboard in a snap Here's a simple and inexpensive way to secure standard , nonlocking hooks to perforated hardboard so they won't come out. Strap them in place with M-style hook holders. Just center a holder over the hook shank, and press the barbed ends into an adjacent pair of holes , as shown. You easily can release the holders 10 reposition the hooks. The holders fit standard 9-gauge and heavy-duty 5-gauge hooks used in Va" and VO hardboard with '¥'H" or %;>" holes spaced 1" apart. A bag of 50 clips, no. 1169A85 , costs $1 1.89Irom McMaste r-Carr, 404/346-7000, mcmaster.com.

~unk. mounli ng holes through the cleat i nto the wall stud~, and fasten with #8x2W' nat­head wood screws. Using a helper, hang the unit. Then, from inside the cabinet, drill mounting holes, centered in holes in the back (C), through the case mounting cleat (E) and spacer (F) into the studs to anchor the assembly to the wall.

8FinallY, install the shelves (H), where you wish, using W' shelf supports. Place

the bins in the cabinet behind the bin SlOp

Wi ."--/J ; , . ,® .

, I I

I I

H F

E

@

See more FREE simple shop

project plans at

(G), where shown on Drawing 5. Nuw tidy up your shop by tilling the cabinet with tools, hard\\~drc, and supplies, hanging items on the perforated-hardboard panels using suitable W' metal hooks, avaiJahle at your local home center or hardware store. For a simple way to keep hooks securely in place. see the sidebar, ahove . •

Wrrtten by Owen Duvall Project <lesign: Jeff Mertt Illustrations: Roxanne LeMOine, Lorna Johnson

Materials List HNISil EDSIlE

Case T W l Mall \.IIY .

A - .,' 12~" 32'h" 8P , B .. ..,-., .,' 12m" 31¥." BP , C ... , .. 31¥." 31¥.' PH

0 ... ¥," 7W 31 ' BP

E JTQIrti'lg deals ... 1'),," 31 ' BP , F ,..,.. ... 1')"" 31' BP

G ,.,""" v.' ,,' 31 ' H

H """" :v.' 3',." 307,.' BP ,

Doors (2 outer and 2 Inner needed)

ouIfJ-OOocsiles Yo' "'10' -,' BP • J inner -ooor skies w <W 24W BP • , "" ... v." 4'''" 14V." BP ,

""""'" l

..,.,-'10" 14'!0' "" PH • -M -- "" 141/0" 23.\1,' '" • ,.",

BinS f8 needed)

, "',', 0"'"

¥o' 1¥' 31(.0" BP 6

:v." 3Yo" "Y' BP 8

p """ v.' "V. 6V.. H 16

a """'"' 'I,' 3¥,' 6V.' H 6

Materials key: BP-8altic tirch plywood. P~rtorated harclloard, H-Ilardooard. Supplies: I8x¥"I~lheac! wood screws (6); ;8:<2' Rathead wood screws (48): ,8x2 y,'llath6ad wood SCleW3 (2): t8x3' ftathead IIIOOd screws (4); cIotl'K:tacked. dOtt>Je.lacoo tape; l'hx48' contiluous ~$ (2) and 1 'hl<30" contiooo:lS Minges (2); paintable \\Iood flIJ!ty, magnet;ccatdles (4): W slle/1 s~ports (8): V .. pertoratecHlardboard hooks. Blade and bit1 Oado-hlade S61, ~ •• brad-p:llnt bit

WOOD rn.g.dn~ Oclch<>< 2008

O kllY, Ml ~ybc you couldn', afford that $\,000 handsaw. Perhaps you had to settle for an el dle3pO that

)00 hide in a dart comer of your shop when YOUf w(xllJworldng buddies come calling. No need to feel shame-with the right TLC and a few ck..-VCT add-ons. you am tunc up and trick

52

out a Iow-oost tool and make it detiver clean, precise ~s with every flu of the switch.

How's that fK)SSible? We let one of North America's premier master craftsmen. Michael Fortune, tackle that question. (See more on Michael, aboW! right.) During a recent visit to his v.rorkshop in Lakefield, Ontario.

M!chael Fortune resaws with pr8Gision on his pet1ectly tuned and modestly priced Rldgld band saw.

Michael introducal us to one of the stars of his loollincup. a modest 14" Ridgid bantls:Jw, model B514OOO, with a V.-hp. 110-volt motor. purchased foc aroorxl $350. ''lllaCs plcnty of saw fur a Of1C-man shop," he says, ''provided you set it up properly." Now, you can do thc same with your low-dough bandsaw.

More on the expert Artist, award-winning furni ture designer, teacher, accomplished woodworker- Michael Fortune fits a ll of these descriptions. His designs have appeared in museums and exhibitions worldwide end can be seen on his Web Site at michaelfortune.com. In addition, Michael teaches design workshops at universities and woodworking schools th roughout North America . You can catch him teaching bandsaw and other woodworking-related workshops at The Woodworking Shows and the Marc Adams School of Woodworking. For more on the Marc Adams School, call 3171535-4013; or go to marcadams,com.

Made from Macassar ebony

wi1h silver and mother-of-pearl inlay, Michael's

signature chairs consist of steam-bent and laminated parts,

held together • by mortise-and­

tenon joine~. They command a

price that only the affl uent can fork up.

Begin with a good basic tool M ichad has five handsaws ill his shop.

all rigged similarly to the two shown here-his Ridgid and a more expensive 14" Gencral International (GI) (about $8( 0). He isolates five key ingredients that a top-per­forming cutting machine should include: • Rock-liolid base . A vihmtion-free handsaw, Michael says, "starts with a solid base that sit~ finnly on the floor." He does not rest his bandsaws on wheeled mobile ba.'ies. Instead. he installed a piece of ply­wood with munded-over edges beneath the GI . Beneath it , he attached fou r Teflon slid­ers (oometimes call furn iture movers) that he purchased at a kx:al hanlware store. These give the tool fu ll contact with the floor and let him slide it ~

around wi th relative ease. The legs on his Ridgid and several other statiooary tools a lso have sliders beneath them for quick and acca..'iional reIoca­lion. End re.. .. uit: TIle solution is dirt cheap, and it meets the woodworker's need.~ ~

• Dust disposal. An effi­cicnt machi ne provides one or more dust-collection ports attached to a vacuum to keep the wheel housing from fill­ing up with sawdust and interfering wilh the saw's DpCmtion. Michael especially likes the built- in dust collec­tKlIl of t he GI hecause it eliminates having to work around a shop vacuum or large dust-collector hose.

big assignments faster, as when re..~wi ng 4" or wider hardw(xxi hoards, fo r example. • Top-quality blade. According to Michacl, " New saws typica lly come with bad blades that need to be replaced." T hat's the fi rst th ing he does. And while he's tried al l k inds of blades, he always comes back to his favorite-a liz" Skip-tooth, carbon steel, coarse blade having three teelh per inch and a large gullet. "I found a fine-toot h blade isn't really heUer than a coarse blade for clean, stmight cuts," he says. Equally impor­tant is the quality of the weld. "For trueness

Adlustlibte wood ....

and durabili ty of thcir welds, I rely on Be Saw & Tool, Inc. [call 888nSJ-2236, or visit bc~w.coml for all the bandsaw blades in my shop." • Stock support. Finally, due to the small size of b.'tndsaw tables, Michael engi­neered a simple adjustable work. support system that includes an inexpensive ball­bearing roller stand (minus one leg), a wood support mil attached 10 the saw's base, and a lockable, adjustable wood arm that con~ neels the stand to the ~w. With this add-on he can saw boards 10' long.

• Adequate power. "A Ih.-hp bandsaw motor works fine for most workshop joh.'i,"

Michael says. But he agrees Trickedoutand 1 UP'~i~~~~:~~;'~~ Intemational bandsaws are Ihal a bigger motor handles when it comes to pn!Ci sl~' cutting, though IntemaUoal costs hundreds of doltars more .

.. oo<lm. .. ,. ..... l n "."' .. n

Set up your saw for success Accumte handsaw adjustments make all the difference between

a so-so cut and one that requires little cleanup. Here arc Michael's secrets for achieving great results.

• Center the blade ror centered cuts. First, with the saw's power off, spin the upper wheel by hand to ensure the blade stays on the tire, turning the top-wheel adjustment koob as shown. Then, with the cover slightly ajar-enough to see the wheel and blade-turn on the saw and fine-tune the wheel angle to center the blade perfectly on the crown of the tire. Thi~

will cause the blade to center on the lower tire as well, prO\'idcd the bearing and guide blocks are correctly adjusted. (Michael never adjusts the lower wheel.) Make a tesl cut in scrap, and then compare it to the draw­ing at right to determine if your blade is centered.

• Apply the right blade teDllioning. Michael applies just enough tension to allow him to deflect the blade 1/.' with finger pressure as shown. "When tensioning the blade, I get better results by adjusting it lower than the settings marked on the saw;' he says. "For a 1ft blade, for instance. I adjust the ten­sion 10 the W' setting." After sawing, Michael releases the blade tensioo to avoid creating a tire­damaging track and forming a bend in the blade that could stress the weld over time.

• Use a wheel brush fol' a clean sweep. Too much sawdust buildup on the wheel could move the blade off the crown, affecting cut quality. A simple brush located on the lower wheel keeps saw­dust from compacting on the tire. On one bandsaw in Michael's

54

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR BLADE IS CENTERED

straight: ,,,,,i,',,, oOCfown of wheel.

Cut drillS as shown when blade is too

forward on wheel.

Front of saw

I shop, he fastened a small piece of wooden push broom inside the lower housing, letting the stitf bristles do the dirty work. Another option: Purchase a whee! brush from RockIer, no. 28299, $5.99 plus shipping. (Call 8001279-4441, or visit rockler.com.)

WOOD magazh.. OcIOb.r 2006

• Set low-tolerance guide blocks, The ideal sctting for guide hlocks., according to Michael, removes any side-IO-Side play in the blade without rubbing constantly on it. "I fold a thin piece of trdCing paper thai measures I/1lXJO~ thick around the back edge oflhe blade to l.'litablish the needed cleanmce;' he advises. "'Too much play could let the blade twist and score the blocks when cUlling tighl curvL'S."

• Trick the table and true the fe nce . Michael offers a neal trick that ~implifies leveling the table. FirM, he reverses the 0" table stop bolt underneath the table, thread­ing it from the bottom up instead of the typical top down. He then bores a ¥16"­diameter hole I" deep in a Wt length of If.!" brass or alummum rot.!, and sands the solid end flat. Next, he slips this "cap" aver the bolt·s threaded end, as shown at right, and adjusts the now easily acce. .. sible locking nut aOO bolt head. for right. until the square l>how.> the hlade at 90" to the table. This lets him tilt the table to the lefl by removing the cap, and return it to 90g by adding the cap.

• A good fence = good cut. , Michael always !<ups all auxili3ry wood fence attached to his handsaw's metal fenct:. Why? So the blade doesn't abrade the metal fence, to support wider stock when resawing, and because it is so much faster to ~uare an au:c.iliary fence 10 the table. To adjust the wood fenc:c. Michael ~imply removes it and adheres one or more lengths of masking tape along either the bottom or top edge of the saw's metal fence, as shown ~/ow.

• Adjust the thruat bearing. Michael slips a 6" metal ru le that mea· sures v'd' thick between the back edge of the hlade and the thrust bearing, a. .. shown at right, to establish proper clearance. He then locks the seuing in place with a few turns on the hexhead boll using a wrench. Make: the S<lmc

adjustment below the saw table. Spin the wheel hy hand and do a visual check to ensure the correct clear­ance is established al bo th locations.

• Tightenyourbelt. Hero's another idea for some bandsaw models. To ensure a well· tensioned belt between the motor and saw. Michacl loosens the bolts holding the motor down, and then drives opposing wedges between the motor and saw base, as shown beww. With the slack removed. he retight­ens the motor's bolls. This results in a belt that delivers maximum power and doesn't slip. Note also thc 1" -thick plywood. added to the steel base to reduce vibration.

• Keep tools within easy reach. Michael likes his tools dose at hand. For quick adjustments, he employs a pair of rare·earth magneL~ to hold a wrench to the upper wheel metal hou.~ing. (From Rockier: VR"-thick magnets, Vi" diam., no. 30810. $6.69 for 10, plus shipping; call 8001279-4441, or visit rockler.com,)

A hole in his pushstick keeps it hanging at arm's Teach on the upper housing koob, where shown below.

55

4 common handsaw cuts made easy W ith your handsaw tuned up and ready

for action, follow Michael's lead and try thc.'>C basic cuts. They tunc up YOUT saw­ing skills as well.

1 Right-on rip cub Michael prepares a length of rough-cut lum­ber by ripping it \0 size on his bandsaw. "I haven't used a tablesaw to rip boards to width for at least 30 years. I do it all on the handsaw," he says. "It's flXlre efficient because it creates les.~ waste while using less energy." He first freehand cuts one rough-sawn edge working ck)scly along a marked cutline. He then joints that edge.

Next, he places the jointed edge against the fence and trims off the remaining rough edge, as shown near right. The cuI remains true for the entire length, barting any blade drift problem. He finishes by jointing this edge to clean it up. Note how he ~ts the guide blocks just Y4" above the workpiece to eliminate blade movement from side to side, and to maximize control.

HI haven't used a tablesaw to rip boards

to width for at least 30 years. "

2 Straight-up resawing With his saw set up as described earlier, Michael can resaw with perfection. using the most inexpensive band saw in his shop. as shown below and on page 52. Here. he switches to a taller auxiliary fence to pro­vide full sllpjXlrt as he moves the blade through the workpiece. He keeps his push­stick handy to safely complete the cut.

3 Cut curves with confidence CHOOSING THE RIGHT BLADE FOR CUTIING CURVES

For clln'es or freeh.'l.nd cutting. Michael starts the saw blade just 1112" to 1/,..." outside the cutiine, maintaining that distance throughout. (If your cut requires turning a sharp mdius, be sure you use the correct blade width, al> shown in the drawing at rjght.) For best control, the trick lies in applying side pressure on the workpiece and blade from the concave side of the cutline, where indicated by the aITOW~ in the photo below. Later, Michael staples a strip of sandpaper La the curved cutoff and uses it to sand the curved edge on the workpiece, as shown below ri.~ht.

56

Blade width ~. __________________ ~R~=£2~~·,--

:: -----R-=:~~·~--· ; <\ Yie" -------------'''''''--,

R=',i"

WOOD rnligazh. 1I Oc!ob.r 200Ei

4 Jig up to cut in the round Michael's circle-cutting jig consists of a piece of Yz" plywood with a dovetailed key glued into a centered dado. Into the dovetailed slot slides a matching dovetailed key with a dowel pivot pin at one end as shown in the drawing below.

To use the jig, determine the radius of the circle you want. Then, with the jig clamped to the bandsaw table, move the dovetail key until the distance bet'Neen the right-hand tooth of the blade and the center of the pivot pin equals that radius. Clamp a stophlock on the key at the end of the dovetai l slot, as shown at right. Drill a '14" hole centered on the underside of the workpiece. Slide the key back, and fit the workpiece onto the pivot pin. Turn on the saw, and slide Ihe dovetail key and wOrkpiece toward the blade. Rotate the workpiece clock­wise into the blade, applying slight side and forward pressure until the stopblock. abuts the end ofllle dovetail slot. At this point you will begin cutting a perfectly round circle, with the side and for\',:ard pressure keeping the dovetail key in place for the duration of the cut.

Front 01 teeth on centerline of pivot ~-

Bandsaw table

~// . /

/ ....

\ ,,-

Wnlloo by Jim Harrold IUustratiorrs: ROkanne LeMQintt; Lorn, Johnson

CIRCLE-CUTTING JIG

' ·wide dovetail slot

,.--1/, dowel 'h0 long C -

-.... tered

·-~'6-¥o x2x 16' , 1/.' ~

W hole, ~ _______

0/4)( 1 ~ 18' clamPed to bandsaw table

. #8)(t'h'F.H. \ __ wood screw

Simple but effective shop-made T-fence Many times the new (or used) bandsaw you buy does not come with a fence. That was the case with this small benchtop modef in Michael's shop. The so lution: Make a simple T-fence using two pieces of straight plywood scrap. (Here, Michael used Baltic birch plywood.) He saws '/16' kerfs into the ends of the edge guide to quickly clamp Ihe T-fence to the table using a pair of spring clamps. Then he glues and screws the two pieces together at a right angle to form the T.

To use the T·fence, just locate it the needed distance from the blade. Remove one jaw cover from each clamp, and slip the uncovered jaws into the kerfs when securing the fence to the front edge of the saw table, as shown at right .•

centered :">-

¥4)( 1'/11 ~ 4" slopblock clamped_~""'" or double-faced laped 10 key

V /1 W

57

tones-of-fun ___ tong!~_~,,~.!!l

slilted top of this six-note, e asy-to-build instrument.

58

I n a few hours and using jusl a ta blc!.aw, jigsaw. and drill press,

you can build fhis modern version of an ancient instrument. The project­tJCMgncd by cra(l<;man and musician Steve Rober ts of Chico. Cali fomia-uses .'>imple butt joinery and a. ... ..embles with glue only. The tone quality of each drum is unique. See the sidebar. "About longue drums:' page 61, to learn more about them, and go to tongue<irum.com to heaT what one sounds like and see video cl ips.

/' ~

-II

"' '''~

__ , T_'

1, Jigsaw along Start with the

With the top (AI on a , drill two ¥I" start holes for your jigsaw through the top,

drum parts where shown on the pattern. outside of tongue 1. Then, from the round end, cut along the inside of the tongue.

1 Frum a .y.~- I hick hard-wood free of knots. cracks, and checking,

cut the lOp (A) to the size liqed in the Materi­als List. (We used padnuk and red oak for the project. Other suitable woods are purple heart, mahogany, rosewood. birch. and maple. If you wish. you can make all of the drum paris from one type of wc)()d.)

D EXPLODED VIEW

®

2 Pholocopy the full-size top pattern rmm the WOOD Patterns. insert Spray­

adhere the patcern 10 the tup. Using a twist b1t in your drill press or portable drill. drill two -Vi' .. tart holes for your j igsaw through the lop. where shown on the pauem and 1:I1I shown in Photo A.

Local iOrl 01 part ®

~.

•. ' trMilered ends

'h" chamfer~ t:::::.... ......---®

® ........ I· Self-adhesive rubber bumper J

, . -diam. rubber ball

_ V." hole ,..de in rUbbe~1I

'f. dowel 12'h'long

3TO form the tongues in the top. fit your j igsaw with a blade that has 20 teeth per

inch for a smooth curve cut. Beginning at start hole # 1 and fol lowing the patlcm lines, cut a round tongue 1. as shown in Photo B. Then CUi around tongues 2 and 3, as shown

I!I FEET LOCATI ON DETAIL (Viewed from bottom)

....

59

-'

til Photo C. Now switch to start hole #2, and cut tongues 6, 5, and 4 in the same way.

4Fmm -Yl-thid., defect-free .~l()ck, cut the end~ (B). bottom (e), ~ides (D), large

glue blocks (E). and small glue block (F) to the ~iles listed.

Now assemble the drum

1 Glue and damp the ends (B) to the bot­tom (C), where shown on Drawing 1.

keeping the edges flush. To prevent loss of resonance, make sure yo« clamp all of the drum part~ tightly together. After the glue dries, glue and clamp a side (D) in place against the ends and bOllorn.

2eU! a Y16" groove -Y16" deep, centered, along an edge of each handle (G), where

shown on Drawing 1, to receive the mallei handles (I) for storage.

3Miter-cm a 1/2H chamfer on each end of the handles (0) and the four blanks for

the feet (H), where shown. Then miter-cut a 2 l;1!,,-long foot from each end of the blanb, flipping the blanks end to end between cuts to ensure correct orientation of the mitered ends for each pair of feet. Sand the handles to 220 grit.

4TO attach the handles (0) to the drum, cut a JI/:x12" spacer from 1/4" hardboard.

Draw 1ine~ acros~ the spacer 1%" from hoth end~ on one face. Position the drum on a flat 2TO complete the assembly, glue and

clamp the large glue ...... ~~ ...... .. :O!::::- ..... Iii blockB (E) and small glue block: (F) to the ends (B), bottom (C), and side (D), where ~h[)wn. Next glue and clamp the top (Al in place. Then glue and clamp the remaining side (D) in position, as shown in Photo D.

Add handles and feet

surface with the bottom (Cl up. Using the spacer, glue and clamp a handle to a side (D), as shown in Photo E, RL-pcal to glue the remaining handle 10 the other ~ide.

SGIUe together four pairs of feet (H) in the configuration shown on Drawing 1. (We

wrapped masking tape around each pair of feet to keep the milered corner tight unti l the glue dried.)

6TO mount the feet to the drum with a ¥R" overhang, where dimensioned on Draw­

ing 1a, cut four W'-square spacers from V4" h<lrdboard, Rub the edges of the spacers with paraffin wax to prevent glue squeeze­out from sticking. Using douhle-faced tape, adhere a spacer at each (;orner of the drum

1 From %"-thick stock, cut a 714xS-!N blank

to fonn the handles (G) and feet (H). Rip two 1"­wide pieces for the han­dles and four :%"-wide pittcs for Ihe feet from lhe blank. (You'll get 1",'0 feet from each piece.)

Using the spacer to position a handle {G). glue and clamp the handla to a side (0) with the handle ends al igned with the spacer lines.

With the chamfered ends d~~;ig~'~:':::::~'~';h~' (H) to the bottom of the drum. at the corners.

60 WOOD m.aqa.ziJ .. ., October 2{){)8

With each rubber ball positiooea in a If," hole in scrap and held with a c lamp, drill a Vo" hole YJ" deep in the ball.

Using sandpaper foldea into thirds, sand the kerts and openings betwe8l1 the tongues, progressing from 120 to 150 and 180 grit.

un the bottom. flush with the edges. Sand the feet smooth. Then, with the drum placed 011 2"-tall spacers 10 provide clamp clear­ance. glue the feel to the drum. as shown in Photo F.

Time for the mallets

1 from a 1/4"-diameter oak dowel 36" long. cut two l21h" -long pieces for the mallet

handles (I).

2To drill centered holes in l"-diameter rubber balls for mounting on the ends

of fhe mallet handles (I). where shown on Drawing 1, chuck a ¥." Forstner bit in your drill press. Clamp a piece of -l4" scrap to thc table, and bore a hole through the scrap to position each ball for drilling. Rechuck: with a V." brad-point bit. Then, holding each ball in the ·hM hole, drill a \h" -deep hole in the ball. as shown in Photo G. Use medium-hard rubber balls, such as SuperBal1~. available at your

Cutting Diagrazn

¥4 X 7'/.0 x 60" Oak (3.3 bd. ft .)

local toy. hobby, or crafts supply store. Now glue the balls to the mallet handles with rubber cement.

Finish up

1 Scrape off any glue squeeze-out. Then finish-sand Ihe drum to 220 grit, remov­

ing any sharp edges.

2'lb remove spl inters that can inhibit free movement of the tongue:; and to create

clean edges for the hest appearance. sand the saw kerfs and openings between the tongues, as shown in Photo H.

3Finally, remove the dus!. Then apply three (:oats of a clear finish. (We applied

satin {XIlyurethane, sanding to 220 grit between coats.) To prevent slippage of the drum and adjacent surfaces from vibrating. install self-adne:-ive rubber bumpers on the fe et (H). where shown on Drawing 1. Now grab your mallets, and chct:k out the drum's amazing sounds, .

Written by Owen Duvall Projuct design: Steve Roberts Illustrations: Rourooe LeMoine; Lorna JohnSOl1

@

--~0 0~---------Vo"-diam. Oak dowel 36" long

woo~ulne.co ....

About tongue drums Tongue drums- also known as sl it . log , a nd xylo drums-have been used in African, Asian. and North and South American cultures for hundreds of years for communication, ceremonial, and other purposes. Though originally made from a hollowed-out log with a narrow opening (slit) in the top or side, modern tongue drums consist of a wood e nclo­sure with a slitted top. typically having from 4 to 14 tongues. When s truck. a tongue vibrates, and the tone that's produced resonates in the enclosure. The tone quality and frequency depend on the length, width, and th ickness 01 the tongue, the density 01 the wood, and the size of the enclosure.

Materials List FlN1SIIfC SUE

Part T W L Mati. aty A ... W " '" p

B .... '410' " 5'1,· 0 , C ""'" w " 10 ..... 0

0 """ .,' " '" 0 2

E "", ... - .,' 6' .W 0 2

F -..,- .,' 5' "

0

'G ""'" ... "

8l1,' P 2

'H 1001 ... . ,' 2'- P • -- v.'-dlam. 12W 00 2 'Parts initially CtJI oversize. See 1he i""IStructions. Mlterill. key. P~daLi., O-red oak, Ol)....()ak oowel.

Supplies: Spray adIlesNe; double-laced:ape; parallin wax; l ' .oomeler medil,m-hard rutlbef :'Il s (21. aY8.iJa~ a1 tC',l , tIobb)' . 8fId CflIItll supply s1ores: !Ibbef cemefI; sehdhesMi rubber tx.mpers (" ).

B~ alld bits: Jigsaw tJIade with 20 Iee1h per m, daoo.~oe set, ¥< ' Forstner and v,' bf3d.point Oils

61

AT A GLANCE • Overall dimensions are 35¥." wide x 127.<\.' deep x 32:V.' high. • For the board feet of lumber and other Items needed to build this project, see page 66.

T he delicately curved legs and e llipti­cal shape of this table make it a real attention-grabber. And the wall­

hugging design fils easily into any entry or hallwdy. Build it and you'll \cam txJW easy it is to make the curved and tapered legs and kerf-bent plywood aprons. You'll also dis­cover how to Jay out an ellipse of any size.

Start with the legs

D LEG SPACERS

....-F:=::I shank hole, countersunk

:¥to hole

® ¥ •• ~

Rear edge

@

Left spacer

" .

®

IV .. '

-,-"tJ-. !---t<....:·:::.......Jl ~ I V. -I

Center spacer

@

o

@

Right spacer From tW' slock, cui three 3)(32" b lanks for the legs (A), and plane them to l ilt thick. (We used maple.) You also can laminate the leg blanks from ¥i' stock. To t{)fm {he legs, see page 68.

Build the table body For the body panels (B), cut a ¥. x24x32" plywood blank. Then cuI the shurt ribs (C),

long ribs (0 ). and leg spacc l'N (E) to the sitts listed on the Materials Ust on page 66. Drill ¥3t countersunk shank holes and ~" holes in the leg spacers, where dimensioned on Drawing 1. Make sure the right and left spacers are mirror images wi th the W' holes

offset from center, as shown. Mark the rear edges of these two spacers. Now lay uut. cut, sand, and drill the body panels, and a.~semble the body, as shown in Steps 1- 8 of Drawing 2. To Jay out an ell ipse of any size, see the Shop Tip below.

SHOP TIP Draw ellipses the easy way, one-quarter at a tim.e Here's how to draw an ellipse of any size, using a scrap of wood, a pencil, two nails. and a framing square (or a piece of plywood with a square comer).

lay out the major SKis snd minor axis of the eUipse on the workpiece, where shown below. Then to make an e llipse trammel, cui a 'hxV/ scrapwood strip to Ihe length indicated at boftom. Mark a hole center for a pencil and points A and 8 for two nails , where shown. Drill a snug hole for the pencil, and drive the nails through the strip. File or grind away the points

ELLIPSE LAYOUT One-hall major ax iS

One·hal!

ELLIPSE TRAMMEL

~ C?ne'ha~

mUlor !lXIS

Penc~ B ,. \

¥."

Minor !lXis

4d nails with points filed or ground away

AL ,," cr _ One·ha~

matof !lXIS

Snug·flt hole One-hall major axis plus 3"

of the nails. Next align tne outside edges of a framing square with the major and minor axes drawn on the workpiece, and secure it with double-laced tape. Place nail A al the corner of the square and nail 8 against the edge of the square aligned with the major ax is. Now rotate the trammel, moving nail A along the edge of the square aligned with the minor axis and nail 8 along the edge aligned with the major axis, and draw the ellipse in quarters, as shown be/ow. To see a video Clip of how to draw an ellipse, go to woodmagazine.com/ellipse.

63

II!! BUILD THE TABLE BODY

STEP 1 Draw guidelines.

e Draw parallel lines.

~"~:D:":W~':':":·i'~lin~.:'=. s:~----~'~:----::: - ~

Major axiS

" ~

Major axis

\:::::~-~::::; " ~Minor axis :>-

24~' BODY8LANK ._ '_ ~ . 32"-

.. ~ .-------\-~

STEP 2 Make an ellipse trammel.

Pencil ,

15V.

~- --- 4d nail

4d nail ,

Grind or file away nail points. Hole sized

for a snug fit

STEP 3 Lay aula hall ellipse.

O Adhere a framing square (or piece of plywood with a square corner) 10 the body blank with double-faced tape.

BODY BLANK

• Flip the square, and draw the second quarter ellipse. o Saw the body ~:: __ \_-----""\ blank in half

:::: ~"".

Push Ihe nails against ._ ..-t~ square. __

",. . -' -_.-=--

• Draw Ihe first Quarter ellipse.

STEP 5 Layout and drill clamp head holes.

• Mark 1M first hole center.

Compass

Mar1<: a guideline I" from the edge .

~~1ii~e~~M~i:":or the hole layout on the oUlcr side at the centerline.

e Step olf four additional hole centers.

• Drill the holes with a t o Forstner bit.

Square

"

'h x ¥. X 18'!," trammel beam

STEP 4 Bandsaw the body panels.

• Mark straight lines.

\ \

• Bandsal'l; then sand to the line.

o Adhere the blank halves with double-laced tape.

STEP 6 Drill shank holes.

Location of 0 Mark the hole centers. and drill

V3:! ' holes through

® both panels. ", Shank hole ~~~2j~g ~2~'~§'~~~~~ at intersection

of lines

Mar1<. the panel orientation.

64

STEP 7 Countersink the s hank holes, and drill screw-acces s holes.

GREEN: Countersink on top lace. REO: Countersink on bottom face.

STEP 8 Assemble the bo<:Iy.

'8 • 1 'fl" F.H. 1.-/ wood 5Cre~

6 ..

S;=~-~"~"..io =~'. =:::::==~~q'§-S::' ~j?~R'j9~ lIo'h ® __ '0''''"~

=

, _ ~- , ~ '" @ bet~en the ~ , a panels@

BLUE: Enlarge hole to '1.1' fo r screw access. ~31"" <0 .... 0 Glue and screw

~ , J thenOs@and

) E 'A.<" Pllot hole 0/. deep ®- ......

Add the kerf-bent aprons

1 For the aprons (F), cut a ¥4X4'/4X40" plywoOO blank. Then. for a tight fit

against the right and left leg spacers (E), cut 10° bevels on each end, where shown on Drawing 3. Now, measuring from the bev­eled ends, cut the two aprons to finished length. To maintain continuous grain orien­tation when attaching the aprons to the table body. marKlhe top edge of each apron. Nole: Although a !rerfed maple board con­forms 10 Ihe broad front curve of the tahle, it is too stiff to bend around the tight curves at the ends. Because birch plywood becomes very flexihle when kerfed, and closely matche.f the color arul wain of the maple legs. wt' chose it/or the table aprons.

2'1"0 mak.e a simple jig for k.erfing the aprons (F) on your tablesaw, se~ page

32. Then adjust the cutting depth so the s.aw blade just begins to cut into th~ crossband directly under the face veneer. (Depending

Ii)

With the "~f~t'~~'I::,;~r:';~:;;~,,'l,:f" (E), drill a pilot hole· screw the cleat in place.

'8)( '''''''" F.H. wood screw G Glue arld screw the spacers ® to the panels@.

lEI APRONS (Top vi ew)

on the numlx:r of plies in your plywood, you'll cut within I/lb-Vs" of the oulside face of the plywood aprons.) Now, starting at the square-cut end of each apron, cut W'-spaced saw kerfs. Be sure 10 leave a full-thickness plywood rib at each beveled eoo.

Jeut three ¥4x4V4X2" scrap plywood cleats, and drill a centered ¥l2~ counter­

sunk hole in each one. Screw the cleats to the leg spacen; (E), as shown in Photo A.

apron (F) as tuck the ends under the ollerhanging edges of the c leats.

Then test-fit the aprom (F), as shown III

Photo B. Leave 00 more than a V,6" gap at each end between the aprons aoo leg spac· en;. To ensure uniform clamp pressure, rip four ~¥4x19" hardwood strips aod dry­clamp the aprons to the body, as shown in Photo C. When you are satisfied with the fit, apply glue to the edges of the boJy panels (B), and clamp the aprons in place. With the glue dry, remove the damps and cleats.

~:~~~~~~~ ; j from the center to

aprons (F) in place.

65

Make the top

l Edge-join 3/4" -thick stock to make an oversize blank for the top (G). (We used loopard wood.

See Source.) Sand the blank smooth. Then lay oul a haH~ellipse with the dimensions shown on Drawing 4, and handsaw aoo sand it 10 shape. Now rout a W' round-over along the bottom edge.

2 Plaee the top upside down on your workbem.;h and position the table body on it, flush at lhe

back and centered side-to-side. Using the shank holes in the top body panel (B) as guides, mark screw-hole centers on the lOp. Remove the table body, and drill pilot holes into the top.

Now finish and assemble

1 Drill 3/16" pilot holes into the legs (A), where dimensioned on Drawing 4a, and screw in the

hanger bolts. Then fini sh-sand the legs, aprons (F), and top (G). Apply a clear finish. (We applied two coats of satin polyurethane to the legs and aprom and thrcccoaL~ tu the top, lightly sanding with 220-grit sandpaper between coats.)

2Place the tahle hody upside down on your work­bench. Insert the leg hanger bolts into the holes

in the leg spacers (E) and fasten the legs with wash­ers and lock nuts, where shown on Drawing 4a. (You'll need a rocket wrench with an extension to fasten the center leg.) Then place the top (0) upside down on your workbench. Position the table body and legs assemhly on it. and ,-.crew the top to the body. Now, place your table inside the front door, and add a welcoming vase of flowers . •

Written by Jan Svec with Kevin Boyle Project 0031gf1: Jeff Mertz Illustration!: Roxanna l aMolna; lorna Johrl,orl

Cutting Diagrazn

m LEG AND TABLETOP MOUNTING DETAIL (Viewed from back)

'--'-" I,'

V.~20 x 2" hanger bolt 1

';." washer "'\

© B

1 V," lock nut

1t8 x 1W F.H. wood screw

~3~"'~'~""-:-::::::-;~;---:'J 1/," round-OV~ iQ'_ ~ 12""" ~ '1,-20 x 2"

hanger bolt

E E

@

A

#8 x t v,- F.H. ......1 wood screw --

\~ A

32"

II EXPLODED VIEW I Oc:cc;:dAi ;··c:;;;··;-"J;-" . '{Al:"''''":.:'.; .--.~;--. J 1'¥". x 3'h x 72' Maple (4 bel. ft.)

O .. f{At .. ··,,"'"o:::c:cc;:·;-·jJ J W@ »=" , = ']= w. x 3'h x 48" Maple (2.7 bd. ft .) ~'. x 5'h x 48" leopHrd wood (2 bd. ft.) - on' lw:"

" "' ¥4 X 5V~ x 96" Leopan:J wood (4 bd. ft.)

E

(f) I c c ,[ (61 I 0

.-.-' . . _ .. " --- " .. ' .

® .. " ,

(- - --_.J ;

/ '. . .C':'"..

" -Y. x 48 x 48 Birch plywood

B6

Materials List rU~I~'I[O SI1E

Part T IV L Mati Qly

'" "" H"" "'" "" B" body- ¥<" 1(W." 30'h"

C ""''''' , .. 2¥.' 4"

D ... "" ¥." 2W B"

E ".,..,., v." 4'4' 1'4'

F" .,.,.. W 4'1.' 190/."

G" .. .," t2'",,- 35""'-

'Parts in~iaIy cui Q\'efSlze. See the Wl\.lCti,:ms . Materials key: M-maple, BP--hirch plywood, EL-edge.pr.ed ~rd wood.

" 3

BP 2

BP 2

BP 2

BP 3

BP 2

EL

SupplleJ: 'B~ 1 II,' al"(\ '8xt 'h' tlathead wood screws, 1I.·2I)x2" hanger bolts (6), '/. washers (6). Yo' IodI r'lJts (6). Bil: W 1000000·over router M.

Source Leopard wood. To check ttle prce and avaiatilily 01 leopard wood. go to woodwOikerssource.rlet.

WOOD ""'1a:o:l .. " OctDber 2006

68

" . nIce Learn how to

make curved and

tapered table legs;

then prepare to be

complimented.

hen so much about woodworkin g involves Slraigbl and

<;(ju.ue cuts, the sinuous shape of curved and tapered legs always grabs people's attenlK>n. Nonwoodworkcrs admire them for their grace, while wQ(xj·

workers wonder, Huw'dYV14 do Ihat? It's easy.

Design guidelines When designing a curved and tapered table leg, use )lOOT personal prefe~ and the project's overall "lyle tl) guide the shape and dimension of the legs. Traditional furniture style.~, such as Queen Anne, have design rules of thumb for cabriole legs that you can adapt to curved and tapered legs. For example. Queen Anne-style lcg.~ form a con­tinuous $-curve with linleor no straight section in the middle of the leg. Example." of these and other design rules can be found in hooks such a~ American Furnilure o/the 18th Century.

The curved and tapered leg shown here and on Ihe

bowfront table on p(lge 62 Uf>eS a gradual taper from ll/:t" square just below Ihe block 10 ~xl ~ at the fOOl . There's a l$Oa straIght section althe center.

There's no formula for sizing a bhmk when creating your own

designs, as long as the compleled [!I

Cut on

, , Block

~·. 1.~- . Notch · ~

leg complements your proj­ect dimensions. For example, the block on the leg we' ll make here mea.~u res ahout 4 1h" long, or Ihree limes its v.idth The block width equals twice the thickne .. s of a .~"

table top. If you have a project that calls for a specific look, researchalld measure examples of ~ur.: h furniture before dmw­ing a pattern.

Let's make a leg We' ll U-'iC the legs from the bow(ronl table to show how to creale a curved and tapered leg. sO stan by machining a l'hx3x3r blank. If you can", find IW'·thick ~tock, make your own by first ripping %x6V." stock down its center. Find the m()~' !l ttrar.: live gmin match and glue the , .... '0

halves together, a.~ shown in Photo A. Then plane the glue-up to size.

M ark the length of the hlock atop the leg blank. and extend the line around bot:h ils faces and sides. (Find dimensions and a pat­tern for this leg on page 85.

Layout the taper on bot:h faces of the blank at the foot cnd by marking in from each edge. In this case, we placed I wo marks ~" in from each edge. Repeat this on the opposite face, and then d .... J.w line. .. on both faces from your end marks to the marks defining the block, as shown in Photo B, as guides for both bllmlsawing and beltsanding the tapers.

Side

Bandsaw on the waste Sides of the taper lines. a~ shown in Piloto C. and avoid cutting into the lines defining the block. To sand the taper, first secure Ihe blank between two dogs made from W' or

Knee

Face

Ankle

Foot

WOOD m&guu.. Oc.oh .... 2006

thinner scrap clamped to your workbench, as ~hown in Photo D. Thcn mark wavy pen­cil lines on (he side to be sanded (0 visually gauge your progress. Belt-sand until the taper reaches the pencil lines on both faces, as shown in Photo E. Flip the blank over and repeat this process on the other edge.

Bandsaw the curves Whether you lL'iC our pattern or one of your own design, tmnsferring it to a hardboard template helps ensure all your legs will look the same. To copy the pattern on p(Jg~ 85, create a 1" grid on the hardboard and repro­duce the leg design in the same proportions as the smaller paper pattern's grid. Then cut and sand the paUern to your pencil line.~.

Using your template, tnmsfer the leg shape to roe side of your tapered blank, a~ shown in Photo F.

Then make the straight cuts that define the block. To countemct the effects of the taper and create a vertical kerf, press the block against the bandsaw table as you make the straight cut, as shown in Photo G. Stop at the start of the curve. Now cut the notch on tbe opposite face of the block.

From the foot end, begin bandsawing the curves with the taper pressed nat against the saw table. The slight angle of the cut will not affect the t:urve.~ until you reach the straight cut made earlier. As you approach the end of the curved cut. press the block firmly against the table, and then complete the cut. Repeat for the opposite curved cut, as shown in Photos H atxll.

Next, remove saw marks by hand-satxling with 80-. 100-. and 120-grit abrasives. If you use a random-orbit sander. as shown in Photo J, center the pad over the curve and sand with light pressure un the edges of the disc. Keep the :.ander moving to avoid guugC~ or nat ~pots. As with the tapers, a "',avy pel'lcilline helps you gauge your sand­ing progress.

Hand-sand the curved surtaces with the grain for your final grit. Foc' the block, hand­sand with a nat pad to hold a crisp edge where the blnck meets the curve, as shown in Photo K . •

Writt9l1 by Bob Wil&an with K", .. in Boyle

69

70

I II the war against workshop dust. gathering debris dirCCtl.y from the 100:1 with a dusI: collector or shop vua::uum should be your first line of defense. You can win that battle but lose the "'."ar if those tiny but dangerous

aubome particles e;cape.!IO ~ou al-.o need air support. ThaI's where a ceiling­hung filtrdtion unit comes in.

Here's how these "Imrie machmes won... Eacb has a steel box with a bIo\\er inside (hat sucks dust-laden air into the filters and exhausts clean air out the other end. 1be prefilt~T (which l()()ks like a common furnace filter) catches the hulk uf the 1&1,1Cr dtL~t particles. Smaller particles get trapped in the high-effICiency filler behind the preliller.

With most of these machines costing more than $200, we wondered if they were much more effective than a simple box fan with a filter taped to the front. So we nm that option through our tests, too.

WOOD rn.I.!Jazlll.. Octob4r 2D06

Airflow: Does bigger mean better? At a minimum, the air-filtration system you choose should be able to recirculat~ the air in your shop every 10 minutes. To firxl oul how much airflow you need. first figure the c ubic footage of your shop (length x width x ceiling height. in feet). and then divide that number by 10. The result ing number shows the minimum air flow you need in cuhic feet per minute (cfrn). For example, a 14)(18' shop with an 811.!' ceiling holds 2,142 cubic teet of air. Divide that by 10, and that shop's filtration system shoold poll at leasl2lS drn of air.

Because manufacturers use different tesI­

ing methods to arrive al their airflow specs. v.'e evened the playing field by testing all of the units using a single method. (OUf num­bers may not agree with theirs, hut they provide a fair head-ta-head assessment.) We measured the airflow of each system in our test using a hot-wire anemometer at 25 spe­cific poinL~ acro~" the face of the prefilter, and then averaged those airflow readings.

The results of our test are shown in the chart, at rjght. As you can see, seven sys­tems charted airflows between 547 and 650 cfm. with the Grizzly 00572, lOS 750-ER. Shop Fox WI690, and Jet AFS-IOOOB all bunched up from 630 to 650 dOl. Penn State Industries· AC620 and Jet's AFS-500 pulled only a little more air than the box fan and filter setup.

How well do these machines gather dust? Although a good second line of defense, an air-filtration system may still let through small dust part ides that can lodge in your lungs. (See "Particle size and your health," at right). For complete prote{;tion from air-

COLLECTION TRAY LOCATIONS r 0

2

1 3' high 3

3' high 3' high

6 .' On"~

!

0 under shelf 0 2' high

~On IJoor on 110« 4

AIRFLOW THROUGH THE TESTED SYSTEMS

We foone three clistlJ1d tiers 01 airflow p8r1ormance trom the arr·fi~ratil)ll systems: SlMn units ~tl!ld tletween 547 and 650 elm: three llrn:luding a simpte 00x fan) meaured 232-2&4 elm; and Lee valley tell sQuari!ly In tile midd~ at 414 cfm.

700

'00

'00

" • ~ _ '00

a • ~ • •

200

'00

." ." '" '"

."

Airllow' musured with hot-wire lnemometer at 25 distinct points I ¥.' 110m the l!J'e!iltellace. To test real·world ilrttOW. filtefS ~re Ioade~ undm identical ~iJt1.l~tances. ilrld then lappe{! clean tlelore airflow

ITI&iIsuremenls were ~ktn. ~umbefs shown are an ~veraoe oIlhltll! tests.

borne dust, you should wear a snug-fitting mask. or respirator. We focused our tests of these units on the nuisance dust that seems to settle on everything in the shop.

After sealing off our 14xl8'test shop in a shroud of heavy-duty plastic sheeting, we hung an ai r-filtration system from the ceiling and placed eight collection trays in various locations around the shop, as shown below left. Next, we plugged the system into a timer that would turn it off after exactly 65 minutc. ... and then turned it on at its highest speed. Our respirator-equippcd tester then cut 160' of MDF and exited the shop. Six

; scale accurate to 0.01 of a gram.

hours later (five hours after the air· filtration system turned off), we returned and weighed the amount of dust in each tray. The results of this test are shown on the next page.

Surprisingly, almost a ll of the high-cfm unit~ allowed !TX)re dust to settLe around the

Particle size and your health Oust·coIlection and filtration-equipment manufacturers often explain the effective· ness of their filters by stating the smallest part ide size (in microns) that their filter will catch. But how big. exactly, is a micron?

Well, there are 24,500 microns in 1", or about 380 microns per lAo'. A 10·micron particle can be seen with the naked eye; a 1·micron particle requires a microscope.

Dust particles larger than 10 microns settle to the floor quickly, so they don't pose a Significant breathing hazard. Our body's natural filtering systems (nose hairs, etc.) do a pretty good job of filtering out dusl in the 4-S·micron range. and particles smaller than 0.3 micron beha\le like a gas, so we tend to inhale and exhale those withoul harm. Particles between 0.3 and 5 microns pose the biggest health riskS because they slip past our natural defenses and can lodge in the tung passages. (TobaccO smoke particles range from about .01 to t micron in size.)

71

HIGH-AIRFLOW SYSTEMS KEEP HEAVIER DUST AIRBORNE We placed eight wllection trays arouoo our test shop, arid Itlen wel~he~ tl\e d",t that settled in10 each 1r<1'j atter cutting

150 lineal feet 01 W MDF ,t.,if-littratioo s)'Stems were run al the,r hignest speeds during the cutting arid tor one hour attern'ards. We lllowecllhe dust to settle lor Ii\'! more hours, ~nd then weiQhed e;lC~ collection tray.

These numhers silo'll tl'1e ivtfaQe wti{lht of tile dust in al l eiI,1ttt trays for each system.

,." - r----------------- - ----,

O.BO

0.10

'" 0.50

0.'" 0.35

0.30

0.20

0.10

0.00

Tests collducted in a seale<l14x1a~8'h' 1itS! shop No dust collection was used during this test. Avtrage. 01 three tests.

DUST COLLECTION AND AIR FILTRATION WORK BETTER IN TANDEM To see how using on·tool dust CIlllt'ction would allect tile performance of UJese air tillers. we took one high·CFM air-liltmion unit and re ran the dust'settl ing test, this time Vlith a typical two-baQ dust collector connected to the

tablesaw. llle dilleren~e was dramatic. JltSt dialin~ down tile spw:J 01 the air-l iltration molor to a rate more appro~riate IOlthe size of the soop lesseoed the settl ing dust by aboot one·third

'.00

... , 0,70

,." '.5<l

0.40

0.30

0,20

0.10

'.00

0.a1

SHOP FOX W1690 (high speed, "11th dust collector on)

0.07

Tests conducte<l in sealed 14x18x8'h test soop. Average of thre~ lests.

shop than the lower-cfm models. After sharing our results with several airflow and fillralion expert~. we concluded that the high airflow (about three times what's needed for a shop this size) likely carried heavier particles out to the perimeter of the

shop heron: they ~lowcd enough to fal l. A

low-crm modeJ--or no air-filtration system at all-allowed those heavier particles to fa ll harmlessly to the floor.

So why didn't the JDS suffer the same heavier fallout as the other powerful units? Its diffused exhaust, spread out over the entire rear of the box, reduces the velocjty of

72

MeetMERV When you replace a high-efficiency filter, how do you know you're getting a good one? According to AI Vaeek, executive director of the National Air Filtration Association (NAFA, nafahq .org), all replacement particulate fitters should have a Minimum EHiciency RejXlrting Value (MERVI marked on them.

He suggests that woodworkers get a filter rated at no less than MERV13, which fillers out more than 7S percent of the particles sized 0.3 micron. And for woods like cedar and waln ut that can trigger respiratory reactions, go no lower than MERViS and wear a respirator. A MERVIS filter catches 95 percent of all particles s ized 0.3 micron and larger, but AI says such superfine filtration has its price: Every step up the MERV ladder costs a 10- 12 percent drop in cfm .

the ai rtlow without affecting the volume of ai r, keeping airoorne dust clo~r to the filter inlet. All other air-fi ltratioo systems in our test have a smaller exhaust outlet that increases air velocity.

We repeated this test with the multi-speed Shop Fox set at its lowest speed, and again at high speed with thc lable~aw cunnected to a dust eollectoc. Slowing the blower resulted in one-thi rd l es.~ dust fallout; add­ing dust cullection to the mix cut the amount of du~t settling around the shop by a whop­ping 87 percent, as shown at left.

Fine points on filters The prefi lter protects the high-efficiency fi lter from larger particles that would quickly render it inefficient. The wa~hable

prefilters 00 the JDS and Lee Valley may seem more economical than disposable prefilters, but in our tests, washable filters allowed morc dust through to the high­efficiency filter, as shown opposite page, lOp, A disjXlsabJe prefilter can be tapped out several times before you have to replace il.

We also found two different kinds of high-eft1ciency tl lters on the tested uni ts. Most use a super-fine mesh bag filler, bUI the Jet AFS-500 uses a disposable pleated paper fi lter instead. This Slyle of filterha~ a much ~maller surface area than a bag filter, so it will load faster and need to be cleaned and replaced more often . Among the bag fil ters, Penn State and Shop Fox have the largest surface area-about 30 percent more than typical. That should give you more time between cleanings.

As for how wen those fi lters actually work. at snatch ing dust, filter efficiency rat-

filter shown after dlspoub .. prefilter

With the prefilters removed, we see how welt they do their job. The bag fitter behind a washable prefilter (left) is caked whh dust that sl'lould nave been caught by the prefilter. The bag fitter behind a disposable prefilter (right) shows that far tess dust that slipped through.

ings should indicate boilr the minimum particle size and the percentage of those particles it captures. (Particle size alone isn't enough because even a burlap bag will trap

some O.5-micron dust.) Higher percentages are belter, obviously,

The manufacturers' specs for filtration effKiency are shown in the chart on the next

page, but we were unable co verify these numbers in our testing, in fact, two manu­facturers, Grizzly and Shop Fox, couldn't provide us with their filters' efficiencies,

Thinking outside the box: Other meaningful features worth having • Off-timer, Just because you're done working in The shop for the day doesn't mean your air-filtration system should be. An off-timer allows you to set the system to run from 30 minutes to eight hours and then shut itself off. • Remote control. Uecause these units typically hang high overhead, it's nice to be able to tum them on and off, select the blower speed, and set the off-timer without having to get out a ladder. Except for the Delta AP-200, Jet AFS-500. and Lee Valley

LOOKING FOR A SELF·STOPPER

• -------~ • • • • • ,. •• .. ' • • -. .:. • • • •• ., .-Units with a built-in olf-timer automatically power down after one of severat preset times. so you can set it to clear the air when you're not around.

woo~azlne.com

#650, all of the tested units come with remote controls. Kudos to JDS and Penn State Industries here: Their remotes display the fan speed and off-timer settings, as sho.",.'fi below. (With the other five, you still have to be able to see the display on the fil­tration unit itself.)

Like your TV remote control, most of tht::sc systems use infrared (IR) remotes that require line-of-sight to the filtratKm unit. That sometimes means walking around behind the unit to start and stop it. Penn

Jet 's compact remote tucks nicely into an apron pocket. Although larger, JDS', control comes with a walt-mounting bracket, and shows timer and Ian settings.

Siale industries' mdio frequency (RF) remote can be used anywhere within about 40' of the unit-about twice the maximum range of I R remotes . • Alrflowgauge. Over time, dust buildup in the filters SHIrts to imJX=de airflow, rerx1er­iug the system Jess effective. The process is so gradual, you may not even realize it until you're looking through a dusty haze. Only the Delta 50-875 has a built-in airflow gauge to give you an at-a-glance indication of when ifs time to clean or replace the filters.

ALMOST TIME TO CLEAN THE FILTER

• •

-• A vane In the exhaust of the Delta 50-875 shows that airflow is still sufficient lor effective tittering. When the needte hits the red area, fillers need cleaning.

73

• Filter seals. You gotta love thc blower's work ethic: It keeps trying to pull the same volume of air regardless of whether thc filter is packed or not. And jf it can't suck dust­laden air Ihrough the filter, il might jusl pull it around the filter. Fortunately, almost all of the units we tested (except Lee Valley) have seals at the high-efficiency filter to prevent dust blow-by. We prefer box­mounted seals to tilter-mounted seals, as shown at right, bccauM: thcy make filter replacement easier, although both proved effective.

HOTES: Pfll~11llr sua is first two dimellSions.

2. Speed caf1 be charog.ed ()11 box and by remote controi UIlIess Othel'/ll"iS8 !lote<!.

('j COOtrollro only by remote ( .. ) Cootrotfro only on box

3 (N/A) No ofl·limM 011 ttlis mOO@L

•• (IR) Infrared iRC) RadiQ conlrol 1'1 No remota control for this modal.

Let's clear the air and choose a favorite filter The lOS 7S0-ER ranked near the top in our airllow tests, yet left the least amount of dust settling around the shop. And we like the display on its remote control. \Ve would replace it~ washable prcfiltt-'I", though, with a disposable one to extend the life of the high­efficiency bag filter.

On a shoestring budget? Our $20 box fun with a furnace filter duct-taped over it tested as well in airflow and dust settling as sys­tems priced 10 times more. It's not as easy to tap out or replace the filters, and you

74

Seals mounted on the flange behind the filters (left) work as well as a spongy foam seal (right) that wraps around the perimeter of the bag filter. The foam seals pinch and bulge during Installation, though, which can affect the fit of the prefilter.

5. (01 --IWI Wasftatli!

6. Rating ptovilJe~ Iff mlirlUfacturer. Percentage of particles of this sire tll~t by the fiUer, occording to Ame<icaol SOCil!tv 0/ Heating. Refrigerating aod Air-Cooditiooing Erljllo!'JMS stalldard 52.2.

1-1 Unable to oNain rating 'mm manutacturer.

7 I E~c&llent GOO< , ..

won't get a fancy on-timer or remote con­trol, but it did the job pretty well. This simple setup might hold you over until you can save enough money for a larger unit. •

6 1'1 Airflow ~alJ9l! IE) Eyebolts IHI Hand~~ for tilrr,ing

'" Remote CIlnllo/ lUI U~grade/r8p1actiment filt8(8

•• I') E~tendab~ to~ve years for $15

10. OJ TaiW"dO (CH) China ICAI Canada

11 . Prices current at time 01 article proouctiorl and rio "", include !<hipping. whefe applicable.

Written by Dave campbell with Jeff Hfltt

(fl ...........

I

Whether you're a custom cabinetmaker, a trim carpenter or own a high-production shop, you recognize Bosch for the precision engineermg that produces the world's finest jigsaws, tools and accessories_

What you may not know is that you can bring that same level of performance and precisIon to your table with our expanded line of over 550 router bits_ In fact, we engineer every Bosch bit to outperform - and outlast - any other bit on the maf1(et. From our patented Oyanite Carbide'" to our fully-hardened alloy steel and diamond-honed cutlinB edBes, e'oIery Bosch bit combines exclusive features that help you make hlgher·quallty cuts with optimal relief and ultimate durability. All day, every day.

A better bit. A better cut Bosch bits -Engineered for tradesmen.

PATENTED DYANrTE CARBIDE OUTPERFORMS AND OUTlASTS TRADITIONALCARIUDEGRADES O~r patented formula allows Bosch Carbide to hold an edielonpr lor precise and consistent performance throuthoot the bit's life.

FUUY+lARDENEDANDTEMPEREO AU.OVSTEEL DEUVERS UPTO 55% HlGHERTEN~LESTRENGTH Bosch brts made from our ~ '-Hn,lIIted alloy steel "- up to 48'" h;~ endurance Itrefll!h . rod up to sS~ hiJher tllflSlle 1Ir.n,th than competitofs ' bil. made trom r.orH'lflat1ref.ted sle-el.

FROM SHANKTO HEAO SCREW, EVERY BOSCH BIT IS ENGINEERED TO EXACTING STANDARDS lonpr wnlo.s work well witl'll&mplales. lemplilte auides, routJrlfI tables and doYetaJl )ias.la..., bnrirIJ:I ...... sup.nor IUidance. And t.OIlII'OI cut desI&n Pm"s cut depth and redUl:e$ klckbadL

BOSCH I nvented for life

how to cut a straight Before you can turn rough lumber into a project you're proud of, you need to start with one straight edge.

I na pertect world, the hardwoods you buy for your projects would come with laser-straight edges. Unfortunately, that perfect "factory" edge is the exception rather than the rule.

In this anicle, we'll show you how you can create that ideal edge on less-than-ideallumber.

Suaight edges start at the lumber store When shopping for lumber, choose the best boards available. paying special attention to the gmin and how it will appear on your finished project. You can buy lumber in rough condition with no sides surfaced. or with only the faces planed ($25). or surfaced on both faces and both edges (545). Choosing the latter, while more costly, often eliminates the headaches of cutting a straight edge. However, even S4S lumber can warp.

Warped boards, although more difficult to work with, can still be put to good use. A board with flat faces but crooked edges, like the one shown at left, can be machined ca~ily to crcate straight edge~, as shown in the dccision map on page 78.

Don't work with more than you need After you've selected your bomds and allowed them a tewdays to acclimate to your shop's temperature and humidity levels, cut them to rough length before doing anything else. The longer the board, the more stock you'll waste trying to straighten it. Leave a few inches to allow for waste.

To plane or not depends on your tools Once the stock has acclimated to your shop, you can go one of two directions. Either joint and plane the faces of your board flat, and then work on straightening an edge, or straighten an edge with the stock faces in their rough condition. We recommend the first course of action because some of the prep methods work best with clean workpiece faces.

But the option you choose may be determined by the limita­tions of your tools. For example, you can', tace-joint an !:r'-wide board on a 6" jointer. And. cleaning both faces on your planer does not guarantee they will be flat. only parallel. In this case. straighten one edge, rip it to width on the tablesaw, joint OJle face, and then plane to thickness. If you need the final workpiece wider than the knives on your jointer, simply rip it into two or three pieces, joint and plane the taces. joint the edges. and then edge­gluc them back together once they're square and true.

Read what your board's edges tell you Now eyeball along the length of your board's edges to determine your next move. If it has one reasonably str.l.ight edge, you'll have no trouble making it perfectly straight. A small amount of crook takes a little more work, but can be stmightcncd quickly. Even if your board has a sub~tantial crook, you'll be able to put a strdight edge onto it in a couple of steps. Here's how to get a straight edge, from best- to worst-case scenarios.

WOOD ....... g .. zi .. c Octo",",,< zooe

edge on anything Jointer: The essential straightening machine II you work with rough lumber, you realty should own a good jointe r. II's the best toollar cutting a square, clean, straight edge, as shown at right. as well as for cleaning and flattening a board's face. Although a 6' jointer performs well , consider stepping up to an 8' jointer, which not only machines wider stock, but also has longer infeed and outfeed tables to better support long workplaces.

We don't recommend using auxiliary stands to add infeed and outleed support to jointers because boards with rough or crooked edges can sometimes knock stands over and poSSibly cause the jointer'S knives to gouge the board. Rely on your jointer to machine a straight, square edge on

a relatively straight board in just a pass o r two.

Best case: No crook C onsider yourself ahead of the game if

your workpiece falls into this category. Regardless of length. you should be able to machine a straight edge quickly with a jointer, ubove. If you don't own a jointer. use your tablesaw to cut away the rough edges, as shown below.

Rest your router subbase on top of the guide board and run the bearing against its edge. Trim no more than v.." per pass.

wOO<hn.aq .... l .. c."' ......

A router will also help you machine a straight edge onto this type of board. If it ha.~ a rough-sawn face, use a guide board with a smooth face and a straight edge on top of your wockpiece, as shown !xmom, left. Use a top-bearing pattern bit in the router. Set Ihe guide slightly back from the

For this method, use either an upcut or Oowncut spiral b it or a straight bit that 15 longer than the board's thickness.

workpiece edge and equal to the amount you want to remove. Make two passes if necessary.

With boards that have smooth faces, clamp a straightedge (this can be a board, shop-made guide, or commercial accessory) onto your workpiece so the router-as it runs along the guide-removes no more than \/16" with each pass, as shown bottom, center. Make as many passes as needed to straighten the edge.

You also can cut a straight edge at your router table, but it takes a little more setup. First, chuck a stmight or spiral bit in your table-mounted router and set the height for just a little more than the thickness of the workpiece. Set the in feed fence so it will remove no more than III ~". Align the outfeed fence flush with the front edge of the cutter. If you don't have a split fence, simply clamp or double-face-tape a piece of plastic lami­nate, equal 10 the amount of material you want to remove, to the outfeed side of the fence, as shown below.

Sand a slight chamfer on the end of the laminate nearest the b it so t he workpiece won't catch as you foed It through.

77

For a straight edge, go straight to the best tool

The tools and methods you use to straighten a board's crooked edges vary depending on the severity of the crook and the length of the board. Use this decision map to determine the best tools and methods to use for each situation. For more options, read on.

76

START HERE: Cut your board to rough length; then assess the edges of the board.

No crook (basically straight but rough)

Jointer Tablesaw

Slight crook "or less of crook over 8-12' I

jli fence on your tablesaw bandsaw?

tablesaw sled? (pageBUj

Bandsaw Router Table

Severe crook (More than 1" of crook over 8-12' length)

Do you have a 7' tablesaw sled?

(page8U)

CIrcular Saw

Typical case: Slight crook (t" or .... otcnaalt __ ... 1a':~

M any boards fall inlu this category when they warp as they swell or

~rink acclimating to the environment around them. Plan your straight edge to give the board the be~ grain direction in the project. Boards in this category will be machined in different ways, depending uJX>n their length.

MAKE NIBBLING CUTS TO REMOVE CROOK

Make I!!Ilck work of boards l ' long or less For short boards try the simplest options fin.t: jointer, tablesaw, or bandsaw. The jointer proves quickest, even if it takes a lew passes to straighten an edge. You'll U~ the same technique for the tablesaw and band­saw: ripping wilh the concave edge against the rip fence. Edges cut on the bandsaw or tablesaw, although straight. will have saw marks thaI dean up with one quick pass at the jointer. The router table option leaves a jointer-smooth edge, but lakes more time setting up than ajointer.

~~'\-~~ Take several light cuts off each

EI

An 8U)dliary fence allows t~:::,:::;~:~=~:~­follow a straight path, and the cut a straight edge. for the I

end first; then joint the full length 01 board.

Choose from many options for boards 1-3' long Boards of these lengths offer you the most optioTL~ of any size stock. At the jointer you've gO\ two ways to handle these board~ First, joint the edge as usual, concave edge down, taking off a little more with each subsequent pass until flat. Or, "nibble" sev­eml passes on one end before spinning the board to do the same for the other end, as shown at left. Repeat umit the crook is nearly gone, then joint the entire length.

The tablesaw and bands.1w again provide good options, but with one imJXlrtam change. For boards longer than I', add a long auxiliary fence to maintain contoct between the end points of the board's concave edge and the fence, as shown belaw, left. Make your aux.iliary fence twice as long as the workpiece, plus an extra 6~ al each end, and center it with the blade. Clamp it to the rip fence, or adhere it with cloth-backed, dou­ble-faced Iflpe.

To use your router table for this length of boon!, combine the extra-long auxiliary fenLoe of the tablesaw method with the nib­bHng actioo of the jointer, as shown below, center. Use a sharp straight or spir.!l bit (upcut or downcut), Using a handheld router and straightedge will take several passes. but requires little space, an attractive solu­tion for shof.k" tight on elbow room.

Cutting a stroolight edge proves easy when using a carrier or sled, such as the one shown beloW, on the tablesaw. To use this sled, place your boan! so either edge hangs over the edge of the sk:d, aligning the boan! to cut the most attractive grain pattern. Secure it with the hold-downs, or use screws al the ends. Raise the blade so it cUls through the piggyback.ed workpiece. Build this sled from the plans on page 80.

ends 01 a workplece. ~::::~~~:sted I~,a~t:~~;---'" the table when ripping.

79

CARRIAGE BOLT HEAD DETAIL '1. ·20 carriage bolt

31// long TABLESAW RIPPING SLED

Rle head 01 carr.lage '/.' wing nut bolt flat on two SideS. /

"" Yo' fender washer

~ '/:I" groove 'I. ' deep

2~:)~ '1. -20 carriage bOlt'

3>h' loog ---...j

3· . ..... \ .Ao... 'l

Vo' holes

48" lor short ripping jig 84" lor long ripping jig

See WOOD Pattems~ insert for hold·down pattem, page BZ

Don't sweat straightening boards longer than 3' You have four options with these boards: jointer. rouler with a straightedge, circular &<tw, or a tablesaw sled. If you have a 6" jointer. use the "nibbling" method; if you have an 8" jointer, you'll be okay to use either method because of the support from the longer tahlc.~.

Your circular saw provides yet another way to cut a straight edge. You can do this by using a straightedge. or by snapping a chalk line to map out the cut, and then rip­ping aloog that line, a;; shown below. Laser guides. available on some saws, make it easy to track a chalked or drawn line.

Rigid loam insulation makes a great sacrificial culling surface. Set the blade depth so the saw cuts slightly into the loam.

80

To use a straightedge. first determine the widest poinl oflhe l-look by laying the board next to a straightedge. as shown below. At one end of the boartl make a mark equaling the widest point from the crooked edge. Measure the distance from the blade to the edge of the saw base below the motor. Clamp a straightedge to the workpiece that exact distance from the mark you made. With the saw bafie following the guide. rip away the crook. You can make a reliable strJ.ightedge guide-which also eliminates chip-out and aligns quickly along your cut line-from the plans on TIu! neXT ".age .

•

I With your crooked edge lying against a straigMedge, measure the widest gap to detennine the path you want the saw to cut.

Worst case: Severe crook

B efore machining a board like this, first determine how it can best be used.

Removing the crook from a 10'-long board means wasting a great deal of wood. as shown beluw. If you really need a long board, try to find one with a stmighter pro' file. If you must get long 'NOrkpieces from these boards, you ha .... e three options: First, rip with a circular saw; second, use a sled on the tablesaw; and third, use the bandsaw with an auxiliary fence--but only for work­pieces 3' or less. Longer boards just create more difficulties on the bandsaw.

the crook along the entire length wastes wood and leaves a narrow workpiece. Instead, cut it into two pieces. right, to maximize its w idth.

Make your own zero-clearance cut-off guide You can construct two cuI-off guides, a 4- and 8-looler. for use on different workpiece lengths. Made to custom-fit your circular saw and rouler, both guides can be constructed from one sheet of W plywood , (We recommend a sheet with sanded faces.) Here's how:

Una up saw against fence and cui 10 remove waste.

1,·--,-2"--- - 6' " . J w I ' F? ! ·-"?!R -:J '==4V,' ,"'.-.< J 1 ~L-_ __ ~11'~ _ _ _

• Begin by snapping a chalk. line along the entire length of the sheet 1" from the edge. Using your circular saw, rip along that line.

END VIEW

• Use the factory edge of the cuI-off piece as a guide for your circular saw to make the fest of the cuts. From the remaining plywood piece, rip two strips 2" wide. two strips 8" wide,

#8 x;y." F.H. wood screw

and one strip 11 · wide.

• Cut the strips to the lengths shown in the illustration at right, and assemble the sleds, removing any glue squeeze-out. • Once dry. secure each sled to your workbench, allowing clearance for the saw blade. Using your circular saw with the blade you would commonly use, rip the edge on the wider side opposite the fence, as shown below. Do the same for the other side with your router. Whichever diameter router bit you use will be the size you should use in the future for making cut-ofls . •

,/ 'no" shank hole, :

countersunk

'h,.o" pilot hole ';." deep

lor

your ~~~~~~~t;I~~~f:.i,~;p~t~h~e waste off each guide (left). To use the guide, clamp ~to a wit" the cut-off edge aligned on your mark. Set the saw blade to the appropriate and make the cut (right).

4' GUIDE

¥32" shank hole, countersunk

CIRCULAR SAW

Written by Bob HunlIK \¥lIn J<'Iff Mertz Illustrations by Tim Cahill and Roxanne LeMoine

81

I n just a couple of evenings and using only a few narrow strips of maple, cherry, and walnut from your scrap

bin, you can make this striking project. So rustle up some damps and water-resistant glue, and let's get going.

For two more cuuing-board de~igns, see page 98.

Start by making a blank

1 From ffiilple, cherry, and walnut stock between Vi' and 1" thick, cut strips to

the widths and length shown OIl Drawing 1. You can use stock with different thick­nesses (as we did) because you'll plane the blank to a uniform thickness after glue-up. To ensure tightjoinls, prepare the strips by jointing one face and an edge and then rip­ping them to the needed widths.

2 Edge-glue the strips with the jointed faces down in the arrangement shown

on Drawing 1 and in Photo A. To keep the

82

glue-up flat, center the clamping pressure on the blank by positioning riser blocks under the blank, as shown.

3 With the glue dry, scrape off the squeeze-out from the faces of the blank.

Then plane the top face of the blank until it is flat and the blank has a uniform thick­ness. Now turn the blank over and plane it to 5h" thick.

4Trim the blank ends square and to a final length of 35".

Now craft the cutting board

1 Crosscut twenty-tour lY4"-wide strips from the blank, as shown in Photo B.

2 Align the strips on edge with the wood patterns matched. Then tum every othl.'r

strip end for end to create the pattern shown on Drawing 2. (This also staggers the joints for a super-strong board.) To simplify the glue-up, separate the strips into three groups of eight pieces. Now glue and clamp the pieces in each group together, as shown in Photo C. (To prevent the cauls fmm

sticking to the strips. either place wax.ed paper behind the cauls or remove them after the glue set);.) After the glue dries, glue and damp the three groups into one lamination, making sure you align (hem correctly to continue the pattern.

3Scrapc off all of the glue squeeze-oU! from the cutting board. Then, using a

belt sander or a random-orbit scillder with 80-grit sandpaper, sand the cutting board faces just enough to flatten them. Now finish-sand the faces with a random-orbit sander, using progressively finer sandpaper up to 180 grit.

4RiP the long edges of the cutting board, leaving a finished width of 11". Rout

Vs" round-overs along all of the top and bottom edges and corners of the board. Now sand the edges, ends, and round-overs to 180 grit.

5APPlY a food-safe finish of your choice. (We applied three coats of mineral oil,

let each coat penetrate tor five minutes, and then wiped off the excess.) FOf" otht."I" finish

Glue and clamp the contrasting wood strips together in order, keeping tile bottom faces and ends flush.

Using a stopblock attached to an auxiliary extension on your taolesaw miter gauge. crosscut 1 V. "-wide strips from the blank.

Face-glue and clamp together eight strips at a time. Keep the top and bottom edges flush and the ends aligned with cauls.

options, see the article "Is your finish food­safe?" at woodmagazine.comffoodsafc. 3 tips for taking care of your cutting board 6TO prevent the board from slipping

during usc and to allow llir underneath it for drying, drill pilot holes and screw six %"-diameterrubber bumpers to its hattom, where shown on Drawing 2. Now gaTher up M)me fresh vegetables, and start slicing and dicing! •

1 After use, hand-wash the cutting board in warm soapy water, rinse it

clean, and wipe it dry. Never let it soak in waler.

2 At least every three months or whenever the wood looks dry,

reapply a protective oil finish, such as

mineral oil, to prevent water from penetrating and damaging the wood.

3 When the cutting surface becomes heavily scored. sand it with a

random-orbit sander, starting with 80-grit and progressing 10 180-gril sandpaper. Then reapply the fin ish.

Wlitlen boy Owen Duvall Project desJgn: Jeff Mertz Illustrations: Mike Mittemleier Supplies: Waxed paper, minerai Oil, .y,' rubber bumpers with screws (e). We loull(l In" Oil and b\mpers at a

hardware store. Bit: ~' rolWJd.over router bit.

D CUTTING BOARD BLANK

Walnut

Cherry

Cut 1 y." -wide stripS from MaPle "",,~:o-_ blank. and POSition on

edge to form cutting boar\ r:- ~::~?~~~;:;;:;i~:::

Jj .... ¥,' to 1"--1.:] ".

I---.. t1 W

~

~ 35W initially,

35' alter trimming blank ends

2 ... _;.:J~ I I I~I [ 2 , '" /J )

21<>" " o CUTIING BOARD ASSEMBLY

See more shop-made

kitchen projects at

1',,"

#6 x 'h" R.H wood screw

'}i," round-overs SO".j-C:C=C~ along all edges

and comers

Every other strip fumed end for end

""',"-diameter ~- ober oumpar I r _ from each edge

83

GMT has been manufacturing supreme quality router bits for the world industrial woodworking market since 1964. Woodcraft is proud to offer CMT industrial quality

to the United States woodworking market. When you make your next move in router bits, think Woodcraft and GMT' Woodcraft- helping you .. . ,

Better Homes and Gardens®

PATTERNS® October 2006 Issue 172

Wine Cabinet, Page 38 Tongue Drum, Page 58

Bow Front Table, Page 62 How to cut a straight edge, Page 76

Dear Reader: As a service to you, we've included full-size patterns on this insert for irreg­ular shaped and intricate proj­ect parts. You can machine all other project parts using the Materials List and the draw­ings accompanying the project you're building.

oCopyright Meredith Corporation, 2006. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Meredith Corp., the publisher of WOOD Pattems. allows the purchaser of this pattern insert to photocopy these pat­terns solely for hislher own personal use. Any other reproduction of these patterns is strictly prohibited.

Bow Front Table, Page 62 Wine Cabinet, Page 38

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Tongue Drum, Page 58

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MabIle SawIng & RoutIng Center Plan

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Download any of these woocIwortdng plans at the prices listed above, or have them mailed directly to you for an

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()YenI'eight Ilem~ have dramatically reduced !Ihipping.

pack more workshop If clutter and cramped floor space best describe your workshop, fight back and win with these space-saving ideas.

N obody plans to me.~~ up the shop; it gets messy for lack of a plan. If you're close to owning an unwork­

able workshop, devise an organization stm\egy and take acl100.

Every woodwol'ker'scluttercure is unique. so pick and choose the ideas shown here that suit your situation. Whichever solutions you go with, yoo' lJ first need 10 do three things:

• Define the boundarlel5 of your shop to determine how 1T1 U1..:h space you actually have, Remember to think vertica lly. too, not just withi n your shop's width and length. • Decide what needs to be kept within the shop and what could be moved else­where. Then list the lool~ you need to accommodate immediately and envision locations for tools you' ll own eventually. • Make the same space hold more or serve multiple purposes. Search out areas with untapped storage potential.

Bust up the clutter You can't organize your shop until you gel Tid of needless stuff, so play "moving day." What would you keep or toss if you had to pack everything and move next week? Send everything that's oot a keeper to the tra.~h or to the secondhand store. Tum unused tools and loose hardware into :.omcone else's clutter hy boxing them up for the next garage sale. Then take nearly empty cans of paint in forgotten colors to your local hazardous waste disposal site.

As you sort, distinguish between tools and supplies for home repairs and those for woodworking. Box up plumbing and elec­trical specialty tools and fixtures you'll sel­dom use. Then store them on high shelves or ouL~idc the shop.

90

Layout space for flexibility When reorganizing your workshop, plan for changing equipment or different V>'QOI.\work­ing interesl<;, such as woodtu rn ing. A single area within your ~hop can serve both exist­ing and future uses, oot only if you design it with that flexibility. Here are 10 ways to make smarter use of the s~)(lce you have:

OAdjustahle shelring adapts to change better than fLXed shelving, especially

for storing lumber. The wire rne!!h shelves

used here provide venti lation for lumber and are readily available at most home centers. Run shelves allthc way to the ceiling to use every cubic foot of space,

~ PlilD far the equipment you expect to ~ add along with what you already awn. Tllat eould mean leaving a corm::r empty until you can afford that handsaw you've been eyeing, for example. If you're creating

WOOD ....agazh •• O<:1obu 2006

into less space

a shop from scratch, add 22O-vlllt outlets to power step-up machinery without the hassle of exten~ion cords or rewiring.

A Mobility = flexibility. Even if you ~ don't have to accommodate pari::ing in a gardgc shop, put equipment and storage cabinets 00 casters and mobile bases. That leis you use the same floor space for more than one task, speed<; cleanup, and makes it

wvod.Jnagaaia • . c:om

easier to accommodate new equipillent as your shop expands.

". Look ror neglected spaces to add W storage. A cabinet on wheels can he stored beneath a tahlesaw extension and rolled out to double as an assembly wb1c. Also, store loose parts in stacking bins beneath. jointer tables, between the legs of a lathe. or below a drill press table.

A,Add wall cleats for a mOle flexible W l.youl. Wall cleats give you the free· dom 10 add or rearrange wall cabinet .. as your needs change. They also make it easier to build or buy additional cabinell> gmdually instead of all al once. In addition to cabinets, cleal~ can hold specializcd stOl"dgc, such as clamp racks and tool boards.

A Create space where YOIl can lit and W' work, Between cabinets under a countertllp, leave a knee space wide and deep enough to store a mobile storage cabi­net or scrap bin. If your countcrtop stands higher than your tablesaw top, build a roll­ing storage cabinet short enough to fit into the knee space but lall enough to double as an outfeed support for the saw or other major tools amund the shop.

&:I. Double-duty design uses half the V space. Instead of a separate router tahle that takes up more floor space, drop a router table insert plate into the tablesaw extension. This arrangement lets you use the same fence for two tuoh.

A.Make a place for wood scrap!. For W'pil.'Ces too large for the IrJl>h bill too small to store with your lumber, build a mobile scrap bin. That way, you create a source for small project parts, scraps for testing blade or bit setting.~ or just material for buildingjigs.

r.'\. Fit tall tools iDto cornen. Use gaps W between benches or cabinets and walls to store tall, narrow tools, such as a drill press. Mobile bases make it easy to move tools into these tight spaces.

~Replace steel leg stands with mobile ~ cabinets. This keeps accessories close to the tools that use them, creates a hefticr tool base for greater stability, and relieves ~()me of the storage burden on your other cabinets and drawers.

91

o

Custom cabinets: Think inside the box

O Bump up wall cabinet capacity by fil­ting them with clamshell doors. Use

the inside cavity to hang tools., or fit it with shelves to organize fasteners and loose hardware. Then customize the outside of the door for hanging storage.

6\. Add dimension to storage. Perforated ~ hardlxmrd providc~ ca. .. y-to-install storage. bllt alternative methods use space more efficiently. Instead, buy or build cabi­nets that hold more tools in less wall space.

A Add cabinets that create s torage within W atorage to hang tools and organize accessories. The accordion cabinet (page 46) UJ..eS two intf.!rior ooon; with perforated hardlx>ard for layen; uf hanging storage.

o Replace space.ealing drill and routel' ,., bit packages with a storage cabinet that hold .. everything you need. including wrenches. c()l1cl~. and m:ccssoric.~ .

A Use slide-out trays ill base cabinets to ~ provide access to the contents with less bending or kneeling. For a simpler alternative. fit cabinets with adjustable shelves to keep tools and supplies from hcing heaped un each ulher.

92

A Customize drawer storage speci fica! ly W' for such items as planes. chi<;els, and saw blades. Allow space at the top of the drawer to hold a removable tray.

a Make 1001· or task.5pecific trays, such V as this portable chisel lray. C~ate simi lar trays for turning ur measuring tools.

Rock or roll?

A Use cabinets instead of open shelves to W keep dust off tools and d uller out of sight. If a cabinet and coontertop arrange­ment such as this one doesn't fit your work­shop plans. add storage cabinct~ beneath your workbench for increased weight and stability and to keep lools dose to where you'll use them.

Mobility only goes so far in the shop; some items are best left with a solid fou ndation. Use these guidelines to decide what needs to be rock solid or ready to roll.

I{eep these rock solid Make these mobile Workbenc hes. Put benches on Saws. On a mobile base, a lablesaw wheel s only as a last resort . can be swiveled or moved to rip Workbenches are best planted in large panels and tucked out of the one spot for greater stability. way when not in use.

Lathes. The vibration of a lathe Drill press. A mobile base allows makes it a poor cand idate for mobile you to wheel this tool into a corner of bases and casters. If you need the shop when not in use. mobility, use wheels that retract Router tables. Shaping long stock completely ar law, removable rolling dollies. is as easy as wheeling your rouler

table into a wide· open work area.

Jointers/planers. Jointers can be mounted On bases with retractable wheels. Planers can be attached to cabinets with locking casters.

WOOD ..... g-.slne OctDber 2008

Space-stretching tips just for garage shops

ONO space goes to waste. Put that area above your garage door to 'NOrX by

suspending a platform beneath the ceiling. It's a h<lndy spot for lumber. tool cases, and household items you muved aside to make room for your shop_ Just make certain you've firmly connected the framework 10 the ceil­ingjoiM. ...

Need temporary storage for a couple of long pieces of lumber? Rest them 011 the garage floorcentcrcd between the wheels of your car. Raise the boards off the floor using scrapwood support", and cover them to guard against vehicle leaks.

~ Up aqainstthe wall. Sheet goods Jean­~ ing against a wall wa_~ space and tend to w.up. Solve both problems with a simple bungee cord. Mount eye hooks into the wall studs more than 8' apart, cenler the panels between the hooks, and pull them tightly against the wall with a pair of bun­gee cords hooked at the middle. Most panels are 4' wide or less, leaving plenty of room for shelves above your sheet goods.

.:. Put high walls to work. Not all storJ.ge

.::I needs to he within easy reach. U~ the. high wall.~ in your garage (0 add one addi­tional layer of storage for items you'l! use infrequently. Mount Gfhinct" in the space above your car hood. You'll add storJ.ge with­out sacrifICing parking space . •

Written by Robert Wilson Illustrations: Bri lln Jensen

Use every cubic foot of your shop Even litlle changes can add up to big space savings. Here are five more ways to stretch your shop:

• In basement shops, drive nails or pegs into the overhead joists to hang clamps conveniently close to your workbench .

• If you can't foresee when you'll have time to build shop cabinets, don't wait. Get started with inexpensive, ready-to­assemble cabinets from a local home center. Then cllstomize the~ basic boxes with add-ons, such as router-bit holders, tool racks. and additional shelvcs.

• Handle every incoming item ooly once, For example, don't leave that new box of screws yoo just bought resting on your workbench ju.~t because you're in a hurry. Take the extra 15 seconds to store it now and you'll save youn;elf 15 minutes of clearing accumulated dutter later.

• Don't stop with your shop. Add or improve storage throughout your house to create places for items that don't belong in the workshop.

• Create a limbo box for all those doo­dads you toss into your shop when you're in a hurry thinking they're too handy to pitch but not ready to ~ore. When the hox fills up, it's judgment day: time to sort the trash from the treasures.

93

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Adhesives & Anishes IlUEDE·nJl SPRAY-ON SU.DI '.5IiM Lroeoox," In w;Q<'Qs. No .... 'I!qlirod. 0-8~­k"lcl<lr\j r ..... _ n 32.,..,.", """" """",",,100 ~~ '1'""'_ DClNJER PR:l)l.(;TS CCf*'QRA.~, 01'- I'fo. 17.

TTTlUIOftD"''' ULTlMAft WOOD GLUI notxro" • *' ~ tICr'>:I-...... \;r1g!r apm ...........tlIv _ard8~~~_~.mdalnl~ __ • _""~NGIK"& """ .. I_--.ru ~ Ttebliltd"iDi:::llU_...:l-.:r.....x;oj-lo>¥.<lO(I ~FRAH<lN~N:.~_24.

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VAMTHAIII_OOP'. IIUCHN .... _nlD v...atI_f'tgWn~I-.,s)OOtd'iWI ~

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A GUlDli TO GftA»IIHO A.MD .T ...... 'MQ DOORIi n.m.-","", b"(Jld,-~ ~,~ et-o.os ho:7ow 10 ~ 1M rrn boO; 01 'A'IY;<j 10_. ~ wt:l_~(bnW\llAA'N:Iod ~ ZAA GtItiW'lQ TOOIard ZAA OW ""-_ l.NTED ~I.NlORATa;;IES C .......... ,.,.

ZAR" WOOD ST"'"" JIOI.~TKANI& HARDWOOD R.OOR FINISHING APPLICATION OUiOI ThoInlcrn"et ... twocIue~)'O<J $1~l1y "I~U~q, .. .,.irlQ ~Ioo<s i'om~ '" r1o;toI: ~.lOwface ~.Io~ unddlooo<ql. ThilolA-<:cb ~ -'_)'OU"""""_Io~"",,b)<U_ Ibn. LNTEDGl..SCN'T'E\.A8CIRA.l~. <:nI4 11M. 1'"',

Bits, Blades, CotUng Tools __ .oacH IOOWUI TOOL vce-. CATALOG GtI .... _~ ...... ii_ ..... the~~,.,......

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r3 ~75~,BIto::Io!I~,.,mgtIIIm1771o l"",..-.::t..w.fWrnl/'if"loj " QScm"'~

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INFINITY CUTTING TOOL& CATALDO ~01,-,~", $Io:t< n:i..o:Io'il """',.. bI; •. fUJ. .. bI MU. ~o.m.1, _1JIIodN. ~!pn!. m-..s..-.::t rT\¥'Of """"'~~Spnojollo3r,_~~ on.., orQeo-Q.Il!r 1100. N'NTYTOClS Cirdoo No. 2111.

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<D.IJQ i;J.I~ hr1d1JrQ1, b:II. au:AIos. Ffw ~..-.:I --"'qBty~ M.C'>tID. ~ No. 20IL

WOODLIff.UU ~hol ~ 1<>:>03~ IQI~" t",*",. n:uon. ~ _ !I'fSI8rn& Pro-Gr1p to. CI8f'r1l6, Qw1(f

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Books, Plans and Videos

AJlENCAM FUItJIlTWW D • .,ON eo. lZ$+U"'U.~tJIt~l""" ~_36x48CAD~III-.;j ~~ McnioIdvlir ... _.

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". W PUMJeATlOfOI&, INC. S!rO b' R::nn!Io"I O"1l>.f'I<tOOIId ~ _ ...... ~""""""'~, I'ri$hng. kit. ~~ Tbo....,. .:>"....,." F&. W I'\.IllCA.trlNS, re. arc ........ MlnUl HARDWARE &PECIALTlII CATALOQ o..2OXl~>;)p...-l5IReq.oootO.J lOOi>'V1, U..:dJ ~....rit>'1 ~ ~ r.:r r.xo 1rd 0I.IIX:a ........... dod<!.. ~ rtt!oio;Il'oses. CfUIlS, ~ ~ tI:!: .. ___ t'$<).

'<>"t"d_~tr.dotio~ I'.£m.~

SffCWJES. am. No.. 401.

U-UI.D WOODWOAXING PLAItS ~., ~~ ~ '*>c>o lQo4/!.l-VO'<Idsol U­aI:I!&::oqIC1 pIir<S'" to... p-cee. (:U ~ DI!nl .... tI\'III ...... U-Bl.D~f\.ANS_ Clod. No..a3a. WOOD lIA4AZ:lNIl WOQDWONUMO IIi'l..toNS n;.~u.-.tI"q>,lI<ll)<fO-v.no~""" fI<rTIh dD:tdwx:£1' ~ .... _ t..1..,.", WI,

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General Woodworking Catalogs

"till WOOD CIUFT CATALOG I'ItOM CHIiRAYTRUI M U-o;h r:ug<o><J r*.~ ~rts. I«s on;! ~ 1:Jr">I4I_~~~<b;f ~ _1If'd......,. .....:w.~1IIr'nI-j:LI; """""'-'~~ ......... ~&1TO'8. lOcOs, poR ~ ......... ........,...-d rn..d>

,"'''''''';;:, ".,... _ ~_ CIUIicO- 010FRY ffiEE TTh'S. ~ No.. M1.

........ -­u.u~onI\P:do~..-d~tJIt_tr WOn..-d __ ~~ "'"~_ cu..t.J1li I~ a::J.IPI#( ~ ... ST3..

QfnZZL'f INDUSTRIAL, INC. (().!-poge .... ocb~dWfJ(l2.(XX)~W'd ~~ICd;..-d~aI"_..,., P"Ca' GAZlLY I'OJS'TR.O(.,N)_ caret. No. 583.

HARTVlLLI TOOL CATALOG: 0..1:, ~ 1OOIs..-d ~ .. hi to ... poaoo oro.n::I "-'* f"OO.lO-ih:l..-d .IQJ!I r.nl b:*i. ~ led ~ aQ:IIIII; tnd tnoP~_ lru:tI«I_ h -. 0.:-" &lItly. f'IIoo:. can Ha-: ~ 10 rano 8 _ """"~ I<H3 oe.. H.ORM..Lf TIXL CIrde No.. -.

SQUA,. DRI'II ~ C8'>maI<a yo.y~ _. 0... so ~ P'Q<I'S '" thl t-' l»!_1 ...., _

~ '"-'ppl"", MCfl:ELY'S. Cllde ...... 48.

M)CKLIIt WOODWORKING. HAADWARIl Col~ ~ dta"d-l<:>{nj ~, sIqJ 1COIo • .-.:1 ~ MeI<e)(:V""""'n1ho$tql __ .-.:I.....".~ \O\iIhRo::dD~~bioJ....."d~ -"-~hIIAccs4<r~ flH~ Ft(X)<l..ER ~,tH)I-W'O{I,',o.<£ CIrdot Nco. "I. SCHLAaAUGH & SCNf$ ~&&niIh.I$"n-ge~'<Itb:><"~ ~~.-.:IUXO~IO~ ~& SCN& CIme No. M:J.

~ ~ .. _o..r7'5Cl'1_""...,.,...".","'boo1Ie~ IOd~CUFfEE~ .. pa<1o<d~a¥6.0XI_ r--.. I.srta" IInI ~ ......... .". 00_ "*"""iOI1InI., an_._·",,,-,,s<mOt"""""'~

FOR _.s.m. ... ~Wld.,~~a ~ ~ I'IO.:'O::1W'T" 9..F'P\.y CCFf' ara. __ Too.

WOOOWOAKaRS ItNtDWARa CATALOG _348-PIO"~ o....lI.OXI_"sb:t<. ~~ I.a..,.r .......... !ft.I_~~<I<>D""_i r..m.-a \f~t-Io'fCWOfE.~ .... T'S.

Hand Toois, Jigs & Clamps AD~USTQU el.A"~ COII~NY ·~·"PM(.Wld·~· . ....-~~ ~R1IJhlrJ~~b!r~~'Il >nJ bem cia"r(:$. «:mi!I' ciarrl:e. .,.... _>nJ_. AOJJSTAElF.OJ>MP~ CIrdoo __ T»'

" ... TOO&. JOURNAL '~rJ ¥IIQJt lInI ...... flrd Io::a a..&ty ....... 1OC*ii km <he past. ~ lII:X>.IlOd..-. IOd IiII<:rt .- two OJ ~ IU teieP'«:n'>&Cion >nJ 10d _ ... fHI'r; .....,. W&<-"/ ,., u .... 01 t..e-......, Io::a O"tlfro..r .... bIO<:tu1IlOCD,< fK tCoO....o..H<AL ~ .... :r:r2.. r_ INDUSTRIAL ~ -"'~Tcdo......-:u-!f"d~~· gal9 tunlllolollnl PI""'" led a:x-""< ~ U , ......... ..rodll-.:l-..porD ~1InI~ fMt".r I'O...ISlRolI.. l'CO. ~ CIJe .. __ T93..

~APNt WOODWOAkaA CATALOG ~ _ ~0C<'M'nd tro...:rot rI baIUr (Jaty ,...",.. 2 ~ ~ tD III! PI'09 ClllIiIoO· .w>AN 'M){)CW(lf';1(E. ClN; .. No. 7".

JUtEG TOOL CO • ~ ntooll Wld """"",,Ior~ "'*' jonety i-"dt.dr'O .... '-' Ire d ~ ~~b!too"--5aN. ~. ~1If"Id rn:re.. ~ llX\.. a"",",~.a02..

SYIR.

O.MS

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~~-.~--~ .... poeo:ee. Uj CUI '"'~ .... n.c tnio ~.NlJHI-&<J. w::«:£!Of. ~ 1<8'0)& WoS1ER~ 1'0">:1_ _III C02\J(I. KIIT_ & I'I'o"UY\ l}f:m .... _ Tt£Sl..KY STCH:.. am. __ lin.

Toot.S I'OfI WONUNQ WOOD o.r64-~cat~ .... ~QlIhe ..... hnI!OOb ........ ~ WI> ..... "'" mejor t.-mdI!.. bruiQ.>e br,..-o,., Mid tho ~ to""'" yw WI Iho ,.,.",. toot lot itIe j<:t>. T()(l.S ~ ~ WOOO Cird. No. 830.

TRAPIT1CIMI. WOOOWO!'IKI;II CATALOQ

~ 0..0"'" ~. 98 pog!OI p(Oo!d Witt> "'''*'' tu-d ted; b ....".,.~~;n:t~. ~1Q\IAL

'MXD....::H<Bl ~T'CN. CIrdIo No. 831.

Hardwood & Lumber ~-~ ...... ~QlBtvI'v..nod lrbeI. ~_rd b.<t; b_ ~ few tt"o!!taa .rorraot.......-~. BEfV\ HAfViI<OCOS. C_ No. MoO.

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WOODWOItKIId KlUt'lCI 0... 100 ~...::o:IiI kmSW""d .... <Qtj. W'rI:>Ir_ .......... $rlt CUrIIly dnJ.r"C!llFS (J t\rlo. ~-. II'mwiflfd v.o::oMH<lR'l s::l..H;E. _ ..... -.

Income Opportunities & Education WOODMoUTIII ","UI ()J~ r.<;I"r>-poIeoI ...,.. <.-110 roM! )OS r.:tno. Q-YlOgIe. _. dO'ne$t>:; WOlet. pod om -. DIeIe< ~ ~ ~IEST l.WU.ACTtAf.IG;. t.C. cr"" .. No. IIH.

t6 WoodMaguJneOc~2006 TO OROEI PUASE USE THE AnACMED CARD OR VISfT WWYr.WOODWOItIetSCent«.com

Kits IUlLD 'fOU1t 0WJ0I MMILT HIIRLOOM Cdo:rio Tl",," Cb::k ~ 00d< lolls. pIIN ~S • .....:l ~ 5tM"O~...,., '972 oo.ONIAl T1MES o..OO<.~.Lro CIrc. ....... _ .

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IUILD MUS«:AL IN.TRUM .. nSl KIt&. pIiIrw.. 8I"Ioj ~ b I'f\III<ng hotpo. <U::irnIn. ~-. 1'IJrOy~,..-.:l nu:fI men. MUSICMAKEKS l<ITS.lNC. ~""'1t. WOOD.oAT KJf'S $nee '!;I96.."'~"'~~,/ft:IIIionpm-o..l. l.ltn<o;t; woodbOolt I<;M. I(b ""'pier<I....-,., P'Y'(;M( 80AlS, NC . Circle No. 813.

Miscellaneous ....... ANI ..... IUCAIUTTLR GIANT ~ WIt .. 3M ..-A SeIiet:t P\ul>::fla i-dlri-Q ~ ... ...,....,.-d J>85 r"IIIQIiIlIM NoIPtMOrs. ~ -., ci 1<1<n ~~ Throd .......... _~I'IeIoT'q~ P)<1mIoo:!;il<:aI ""\!.lIy~. em lillie GionI Uo:rln ... ....., "" lV Foet~,!<RNAAf.~ CI'-"'" tON.

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PLANNINQ TO IUILD' W.~~~f""""'''''on:h_~ __ It'Id tluIIto ~wir<I, IrON . ..., and.....t:~. Xl_......., sn:..l\1E11:1,~STEaI6(;_.Lro_ eire .. No. U'" AAOIAMT "'001'1 COMH.NY CN rUJ1: I'af. "M:6: ~'Il!dn ~ ~ C'l "'"..,...

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Power Tools U~~

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SH~T TOOLS I'IC . S. • per! cI tt"ot 'cOolie tool ~«> v.tI1 MS\IIO UN ~ t:O'1IrtIIIO ro<.oton b" proIe-...oOcnaI o.nd I>i:.fM-bo.OOId pt<XlucU:n Bu«I CiOft •• UIWIe. eign3, 3·D car..-.g ....... m..d1~. SHCP8OTT<:O..S I\C Clrefoo _ Hi4.

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-... ...... SA_LUi Cor...ert b;I!IlliQ ~ ~r'II;)W, ....!>;>ther )W'rt. r.ovcot « 'II~ SJ'N'f'tf, '-"""I a Ii'o<;o:j.~ ... pa1atOe b<nIoow mil. PootI<nli $3"MTik lila'! at $4,4\15. Send !or cu <:aI&lg, weco­I.mA PACOJelS, Ci ... 1e No. 1800.

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mix-and-match

cuttingciboard Simply alter the blank for fresh new looks. eSlgns l enjoYed coming up with the design for

the cutting board featured on fXJge 82 so much that I created lhese additional

designs (Of you to try. To pruducc the patterns. combine concra"iting wood strip!' of different widths to (onn the cutting boord blanks shown below, making sure that the blank wood patterns-when reversed-<Jff-

set all of the joint lines by alleasl v.~. Although there's no rule for the strip wktths. I kept them between ~ M and 2 W 10 take advantage of narrow scrap-bin rippings.

To make either of these cutting boards, follow the instructions in the refereJ'K:ed article, cutting the blank strips to the widths

shown below. Or if you feel adventurous. try your hand al a new design. now that you know the offset secret.

Design Option 1 ",c:::= . ,;1 round-overs along ... II edges and comers

Design Option 2

98

-• R.H. wood -r---- screw

__ ¥."-diam. rubber bumper T l' in from each edge

Cherry""""',......~ Maple~ ___

Cut 'v."·wide Sirips from blank. and posilioll 00 edge 10 fOl'TTl cut1ing board. ' , :Y.'to" initially, ~ then planed to 'VI" ---1"""'1

w ) ~)10Ifr': ''h'~~

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~. rO\.lnd-overs along all edges and comers

'·(ham. robber bumper , . In lrom each edge

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Planer-size drum sander leaves a smooth surface and saves you money, too Anythmg that eliminates the drudgery of hand-sanding is okay in my book-that's why I u<;e a drum sander. Like most home­shop drum sanders, mine fealUres one open end thaI penniu; sanding pieces up 10 twice as wide as tlx: drum. It thicknesses as reliably as a planer (but s]O\ .... er). and leaVe!! a finer finish on my workpieces. From a space slUndpoint. though, a drum sander is just one more hig ~taliooary tool I have 10 walk around.

BUI Grizzly's G0459 Baby Drum Sander, wi th ib 12x2r foolpri nL takes up only II lillie more room than a typical benchlop planer. (A Ithough, a t ISO pounds. il weighs aboul lwice as much.) And, like industrial· scale drum sanders. txxh ends of the G0459 are closed. That means t WO things: 1bere's no deflection of the drum, as you sometimes can find on open-ended

Another feature that separates the 00459 from other drum sanders: its conveyor belt that pulls wood through the machine. Most mdchme~ use an abrasive belt, but this sander's rubbery belt (again. borrowcd fmm industrial drum sanders) seems to grip better. And it tracked true right oot of the box.

You won't wa .. tc any time getting to work. because the sander comes completely as.<;embled. save for installing the cr:mk handle and dust port. I was surpri.'!Cd to M:C on ly a 2lh" dust port on the G0459. but when 1 hooked it up 10 my shop vacuum and then sanded 10" -wKte walnut boards, li ttle or no dust escoped.

Hook-and-Ioop sanding ~lrips, 3" wide, make changing worn abrasive~ a breeze. The ends of the abrasive ~rips tape down with ~rr.~pping tape. which isn' t as sexy a ... fancy cl ips, but equally effective.

Baby Drum Sander G0459 Perlormance Prioo

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sanders; and you can't sand anyth ing wider Ihan 12", I'll bet that 90 percent oflhe PieceS. I shove through my drum sander measure less than 12~ wide. so that capacity is plenty for me, -Tested Or Pat LOW/)' 8OOI523-47n; grizzly.com

Full-on clamping pressure with a flick of a lever Remember the days when every clamping

•

operatlCln WH,~ a chore becau:>e you had to t wi~t II handle or cnlnk LO tighten the jaws? Pistol-grip style har c\amp~ made the job easier, bot VersaClamp .~implifJes clamping even more with a lever-activated cam to apply prcs. ... urc. Llke.a c1amp-on 1001 guide, you simply sJ ide the movable jaw so lhal

bolhjaws touch the assembly you WJ.nt 10

clamp, and lhen push lhe lever down. Instantly, 400 psi of pres.<;ure is applied to the joint. (By comparison. pIstol-grip bar clamps deliver ahouI 200- 250 psi; II threaded-jaw damp can go to 1,000 psi.)

Optional mounting ___ _ ~

Mount a VersaClamp to the front edge of your bench (or sawhorses. as shown at n'ght) usi ng the optional brackets, lind it acl<; like a tail vise and bench dog to secure a work piece whi le you v.urk il. You can still eosily remove the clamp for handheld use. bur the [lfOtruding hmckeL<; left behind tended to eatch on my pockets. ] wound up leaving a cltlmp in the brackets most of the time 10 prevent that.

100

brackets

The only othc:rduwn .... idc i"thc price. A 20"-capacity VersaCltlmp runs $35-about the same price as a '24' 8es!iey K-Body damp that boaSlS large. parallel jaw face~ and more clamping pre~~ure,

-Testeo by Randy Zimmerman

VersaClamp P8I'formance Price

*"*"" $35; mounting brack&lS, SS/pair

T.S. Tool Co. 6 121933-542 1; Istoolco.ccm

WOOD m.agazin. OeloboN 2006

Stop bleeding: Nip workshop nicks fast When you told your wife you 'Were going to the shop to stain a project. you probably didn't mean with yuur own blood, But any­time yuu work with cutting tools, there's always a chance that you'll cut yourself. QR powder-the same stuff used by spor1..<; teams and physicians to stop bleeding- is available for your shop and home.

Recent ly, a bench chisel "bit" me on the finger when I instinctively reached for the tool as it fell off the bench. The cut was deep enough that 1 would have had to stop what I was doing. and go in the house to hunt for the antiseptic and a bandage. TOial downtime: maybe [0 minutes.

Instead of a bandage, though, this time I cracked open a plastic bubble of QR powder. painlessly poured it over the open cut, and tamped it down with my finger. Within about 15 seconds, an artificial scab had larmed. I shook off the excess powder and went back to work.

QR doesn't contain anti~ptic, so you still have to cleanse the wound from dirt and contaminants to prevent infection. I forgot to, but the next day I notked that the cui area wasn'l red, tender, or swollen, so the "instant scab" works as advertised, allowing the healing to begin quicker.

-Tested IJy J6" Mertz

QR Quick Relief Performance

Price $5 (four single-use applications)

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Remove damaged screws with GraBit In 10 years of woodworking, I've damaged more scfe\vhcads than I can remember. Soft brass screws are the most suoceptib1c, but even the heads of today's inexpensive steel screws tcnd to shred under the influence of a cordless drillIdriver. Once damaged, you can't drive 'em in, and often can't back 'em out. But GraBit screw extractors give me a way to hack 'em out.

Eaeh end of the GraBit bit has a different function: The burnishing tip bores <lnd smooths a shallow dimple in the messed-up screwhead. Flip the bit around to expose the reverse-spim] extracting tip; then use your drill/driver, slowly, in reverse. The spim] bites into the dimple, and oot comes the screw. Thc key, I found, is to create a smooth dimple for that spiral to seat in.

To te~t GraBit, I intentiunally bunged up a Phillips-head brass hinge screw so badly, I couldn't even see where the drive slots had been. To my surprise, the burnishing! extracting process worked exactly as advertised. In fact, no matter what kind of screw I tried it on----steel screws, drywall screws, hras~ screws, Phillips, slotted or square drive-GraBit worked in them all.

The 2-piece sct works on screws from size #6 to #14, and should be in every woodworker's toolbox. The manufacturer suggests not using GraBi! on screws longer than 2". Such screws provide more resistance than the extmcting tip can overcome.

Extracting tip

-Tested by Pat Lowry

Gra8it Damaged Screw Remover Performance ***** Price $18 (~820P tWOiliece set)

Aldan Corporation 600/832·5336; aldn.com

continuHI VII p(jge 104

102

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Dust Deputy puts the cuffs on sanding dust A du~t conector gobbles up debri~ created by machines such as a tablesaw. planer. or jointer. But for portable power tools with !;rnall dust port.~, 11 shop vacuum WQrk.~ more effectiveJy-that is, until the vac'~ fil ler becomes choked with fine du~t. If only someone v.'OUld come up with a device to kC(.'P my vac performing at its peak by preventing that dust pack.

Oneida's Dust Deputy docs Jusl lhal. Connected inline between the 1001 and the vacuum. this heavy steel cyclone separator octs like a full-size cyclone, allowing only the smallest particles to get into the vac's

tub. I'll admit J was skeptical, but my tests made me a believer.

After washing out my vacuum's tub. I i connected its hose tn Dust Deputy's 2" lop . outlet. Next, 1 hooked up another hose (an

optional hose kit from Oneida) between the Deputy's lth" "ide inlet and my random­omit sander. Finally, J hogged away a scrap of bani maple with 8O-grit paper. After 10 minutes of sanding, I stopped and popped off the vacuum's lid. Only when I wiped the inside of the vac lub did I -.ee a truce of dust. On thc other hand, a 4uick check or Dust Deputy's lO-gallon steel drum

UIoW\:d lhe interior completely coated with fine maple dust.

Thinking I hadn't chal· lenged this mini-cyclone enough. I thoroughly cleaned the we tub und Ihe drum. hooked up my hig drum

r.:=============================:::;~ sandel' LO the in let, and again fired up '-.... ... ;".-iiis~::;'" the vacuum. This tim~,

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I continuously fed IO"-wide maple and wa lnut boards, litopping only long enough 10 lower lIle s<'\ntl ing drum slightly between passc~. After abrading more than 40 lineal reel of wide ;.lock. I checked the lub and drum and found the same result: very little dust In thc \'at.'l1um, and a deep, swirly dune of dust in the bottom of Dust Deputy's drum. it really performed well. Bul then il l>oould for 5200 (not including thc optional $30 hose Ihat runs between the lou] and the Deputy; ),OU eQuid also use your own).

You can cut yourcm.t in half, though. if you buy the DrY P..Ki.:agc that mounts on your own 5-gallon bucket I assembled I h i~

model with a ,<;erup of plywood, gm.ket material (I u~d an old router pad), and u ft:w bolts in less than 30 mi nutes. It worked every hit a~ well a.~ the Completc sy~tcm..

- Testoo by Pat Lowry

Dust Deputy Performance .......... Price S2OO. Complete: $130, DIY Packajle

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router

trygauge blocks for fast set-ups Once you've fussed ove r setting the

perfect height for a table-mounted

route r bit , make a gauge block so

next time you can skip the hassle .

Which bits need blocks? Creating gauge blocks for the following router hits makc.~ good sense: • Matching pairs, such as cope-and-stick bits, used to make rails and stiles on doors and windows, or tongue-ancl-groove bits. • Bits requiring precise alignment. such as those designed for cutting finger joinL" or raised panels. • Any bits that you use to match existing profiles, such a~ on molding or trim.

Build blocks that will last Machine yooT gauge blocks from hard, tight-grained wood, such as maple, cherry, or w<linut, or medium-density fiberboard (MDF). lfyou think changing humidity might cause wood blocks to swell or shrink, make them out of ultra-high molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMW), as shown below.

Start wilh a blank at least 4" wide and 6-8" lung. Plane blank.~ to the same thickness as [he wor1cp~s you would ultimately use on a project. For example, if your mils and stiles fur mised-panel doors typically measure Vi' thick, make your gauge blocks to match.

!lIiE!!lI!1mlIi

UHMW, at right, machines just as easily as wood and won't change size or shape w ith seasonal variations in humidity.

106

Now sct up the hit in the router table as you would for a pn~icct part. Make test cuts on scrap to perfect the settings: then rout the profile onto the blank, as shown bdvw. Repeat the process for the mating bit (if any), and then mal:hine the OPIXlsitc edge of the blank. Finally, rip the gauge blocks to about I Y.!" in width. Sand away any splinters or rough areas, being careful not to alter the profile.

How to use gauge blocks To set up a bit, first raise it to the approximate height. Make sure the router is unplugged. Place your malching gauge block---cenlereJ on the bit-with the profile against the bit. Rruse or lower the bit until it slides perfectly into the routed profile on your block, as shown at right,

Cutting a gauge-block profi le on wider st ock, before ripping to width, proves safer than routing narrower pieces.

and lock in the height. Now set up your tence or miter gauge as needed. Note: While gauge blocks are helpful in set-up, always roul a lest piece first to confirm the accuracy.

Store your gauge blocks near your router bit~ or router tablt:, either in a cabinet or dmwer. Or, drill a hole near one end, to hang them on a nail or hook, To avoid confusion later, write on your gauge blocks which muter biL-; they malch .•

! Source I UHMW: :r.x4x48" $20, plus shipping and I handling, Amazon.com.

I MATCH THE BIT TO THE BLOCK

~~~~:.~~:~~~ the bit tight-~'ned into in its height when t he bit aligns w ith the gauge block.

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