1 Strategies for Seeing the Region

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Strategies for Seeing the Region

Previous page: Lavender field in summer.

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Rule #1: Allow for down timeDon’t cram your days full of activi-ties. Build in plenty of time tounwind; to stop and smell the laven-der; to eat long, hearty lunches; toslowly savor the wine and admirethe views. These humble experi-ences could well become the pinna-cle of your trip if you don’t sullythem by rushing. To make the mostof your time, decide what you wantto do most that day, then plan yourother activities in the same area.

Rule #2: Take distances into accountProvence and the Riviera are as easyto traverse as a small U.S. state.Under normal conditions, you candrive between many of the region’smost popular stops in less than anhour. In traffic, however, it’s anotherstory. Certain destinations—particu-larly those away from the autoroute(highway)—can take much longer toreach during peak periods. If you’revisiting popular spots in summer,around school vacations, or on pub-lic holidays, tack at least 30 minutesonto estimated drive times (evenlonger on the Côte d’Azur). As ageneral rule, roads are well main-tained and sign-posted, but carry adetailed road map. See p 201 forcrucial driving tips in France.

Rule #3: Time your visit rightIf it’s your life-long dream to seelavender fields, don’t visit in spring;lavender blooms in July and August.Skip summer, however, if you wantto experience the region at its most authentic—minus hoards of

tourists. Opt for March and April orSeptember and October instead,when the weather is warm, buttourists are back at work. Februarycan also be lovely on the Riviera,when Menton’s Lemon festival,Bormes-les-Mimosas’s mimosa festival, and Nice’s carnival brightenthe streets. Work out in advancewhat you want to see and do, thenchoose the season accordingly. Seep 196 for a calendar of events.

Strateg

iesfor Seeing the Region

9

Provence and the Riviera are regions to experience rather than“see”; life moves more slowly in the south of France, and hasty

sightseeing cuts against the grain of daily life. With so many com-pelling small towns, villages, and rural landscapes, you’ll be temptedto visit them all, but if you rush you’ll miss the essence of the place.Here are strategies to help you enrich your time and travels.

A quayside coffee break in Marseille.

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Rule #4: Decide whether tohotel-hop or stay in one placeSome of the region’s most popularstops are near one another. Bychoosing a base for several daysand exploring the surrounding areaon day trips, you’ll save time check-ing in and out of rooms, packing and unpacking. Avignon, St-Rémy,Les Baux, Nîmes, and Arles are soclose you’d do best to bed down in just one town, reserving yourenergy for hotel changes on thelonger hauls. On the Côte d’Azur,Nice is a fine station from which to explore Monaco, Menton, andthe coastal villages around Cagnes,St-Paul-de-Vence, and Biot.

Rule #5: Plan trips aroundlunchIf you’re driving from town to town,it’s best to arrive before lunch. Mostrestaurants serve from noon to 2 or2:30pm sharp, and many shopsclose at noon for the midday meal. If you don’t want to follow such astrict schedule, pack your own foodand follow your heart’s desire to apicnic spot under the Provençal sun.

Rule #6: Plot your point ofentry and means of transportthereProvence has small airports in Marseille, Nîmes, and Nice, butnone receive flights from the U.S. or Canada. If you must fly to theregion, you will inevitably take offfrom Paris at either the Charles deGaulle or Orly airports. Planes are atime-effective means of transportfor Nice and the Riviera: Nice’s air-port is practically in the town center and receives daily flightsfrom Paris and other Europeancities. The quickest and most cost-effective way to access Provencefrom Paris, however, is on France’slegendary high-speed TGV trains.Avignon takes just 2 hours, Aix-en-Provence 21⁄2, and Marseille a little under 3. You can rent cars at all the region’s airports and trainstations (see p 201 for a list of agen-cies). If you drive from Paris, themain autoroutes into the region arethe A6, A7, and A8. From Paris, youshould allow at least 6 hours toreach Avignon, 8 for Marseille, andup to 10 for Nice.

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A cyclist near the village of Suzette.

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