1 Family Highlights ofParis & Disneyland

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 1

COPY

RIGH

TED

MAT

ERIA

L

1H

ighl

ight

s o

f P

aris

& D

isne

ylan

d

2

BEST FAMILY EXPERIENCES

Strolling along the Seine is ahighly enjoyable way to take inPariss iconic, sweeping vistas,identify the main sights, and

absorb the laid-back atmosphereas lovers walk hand in hand,anglers cast their lines, bouquin-istes (secondhand-book dealers,see p. 163) peddle their old editions, and rollerbladers andcyclists dodge passers-byespecially on Sundays during

Few cities evoke as much promise and passion as the Frenchcapital. The mention of its name is enough for people to gostarry-eyed as they dream of walking along the banks of the RiverSeine, stopping in caf terraces, eating in some of Europes finestrestaurants, and introducing their children to the cultural attractionsof one of the most beautiful capital cities in the world.

Paris has always been the city for me; first as a teenager, when myparents unexpectedly extended our holiday in Brittany to Paris andDisneyland (I remember walking across the gardens on the Champs-Elyses, dodging the sprinklers on the flowerbeds, and being wowedby Disneys fireworks display); then as a happy-go-lucky student onmy year abroad; and now as an ex-pat who still hasnt seen everythingthere is to see even after eight years.

Im not alone in my enthusiasm. The French government reportsthat the worlds most visited attractions last year were the Louvre (7.6million), the Eiffel Tower (6.4 million), the Pompidou Centre (5.3million), and Versailles (3.3 million) proof that Paris and its suburbsare simply inexhaustible in their ability to charm.

For many families Paris is about discovery, the memories your family makes, and the broader history you, the children and the cityare part of. But dont let yourself get stuck in the city centre for thewhole of your trip the le-de-France (the region in which Paris lies)brims with activities for families, be it the parks and forests on theouter edges Bois de Boulogne and Parc de la Villette; Versailles theSun Kings Palace; Parc Astrix a thoroughly French theme park; orDisneyland Resort Paris, where the frivolous fun Walt Disney dedicated his life to bursts into action inside a fast-moving resort thatyou could easily spend two days in.

Placing both feet firmly on the ground again, visiting with children, especially babies and toddlers, can be frustrating in the citycentre. Restaurants (unless you aim at the top end) rarely have highchairs or clean toilets, and the Mtro with its narrow turnstiles andnever-ending staircases is unsuitable for buggies. However, onceyouve accepted this and brought along the necessaries (wipes, baby-carriers, etc... see Childrens Kit p. 20), youll find Paris a delightfulcity whatever the weather or the time of year.

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 2

Best Fam

ily Exp

eriences

3

the summer months whenstretches of the quaysides areclosed to cars, and the riversedge becomes a beach with activ-ities for youngsters. See ParisPlage, p. 24.

Ambling around the open-airor covered markets (marchs)to buy fresh food perhaps a ripen creamy Camembert, somesaucisson, or a pumpkin-goldmelon for a picnic. For marketlistings see each chapter.

Meeting Mickey and Friendscan be the highlight of anyyoung childs trip to DisneylandParis. To make the magic lastlonger, book a DisneylandResort hotel where the charac-ters make regular appearances,and sometimes join you forbreakfast. See p. 234.

Watching a movie in the openair in July and August at Parc

de la Villette. Parisians turn upin their thousands, picnic basketand blankets in hand, to watchfilms projected onto Europeslargest inflatable screens. This isthe ultimate way for your familyto soak up the easy-going atmos-phere that reigns in Paris duringthe summer months. See p. 140.

Cheering on the jockeys inthe famous and classyHippodrome de Longchamp,in the Bois de Boulogne (the siteof the Prix de lArc de TriompheGrand Prix) or the HippodromedAuteuil (see p. 22) is funthroughout the year, but evenbetter on Sundays in April andMay when huge picnic areas areset up between the tracks, withcandyfloss, games and attrac-tions for children. See LesDimanches au Galop, p. 22.

Pulling faces at the gargoyleson top of Notre-Dame takingphotos of family members imper-sonating one, then deciding whowas most convincing. See p. 186.

Getting to the top of the EiffelTower never fails to impress andis something everybody shoulddo at least once in their lives. Atnight, the tower sparkles like agiant Christmas tree, every houron the hour for 10 minutes. Seep. 77.

Immortalising your childrenwith a portrait painted at Place du Tertre is cheesy butfun. The caf-lined square inMontmartre, once frequented bypainters like Toulouse Lautrec, isjam-packed with modern artistsready to caricature your youngsters

Enjoy the bustling markets

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 3

1H

ighl

ight

s o

f P

aris

& D

isne

ylan

d

4

and give you something fun tolook back on. See p. 112.

Taking the boat along theCanal St-Martin from Bastille tothe Villette quarter, past tree-lined quays and old working-classareas now gentrified and ratherhip. Canauxrama, see p. 139.

Feeling sombre in theMmorial des Martyrs Franais dela Dportation de 1945 (Deporta-tion Memorial) on the tip of lede la Cit. It movingly bringshome the fact that the Nazi geno-cide took millions of lives, manyfrom Paris. See p. 188.

Walking up the Champs-Elyses past chic shops, cine-mas, car showrooms, and cafstowards the Arc de Triomphewhere you can see the grave ofthe unknown soldier and climbthe arch for spectacular viewsacross Paris. See p. 60.

Getting dressed up for a gour-met family treat in the Crillonpalace hotels restaurant LesAmbassadeurs (or their lower-key and less expensive brasserieLOblisque). See p. 70.

Catching a puppet show inthe Thtre des Marionnettes,smack-bang in the heart of theLuxembourg gardens makes for awonderful Gallic giggle, whetheryour children speak French ornot. See p. 161.

Taking the funicular to the topof the Butte de Montmartrefrom where you can visit theSacr Coeur basilica, take insweeping vistas of the whole ofParis, and watch talented streetperformers. See p. 104.

Bike riding along the CanalSt-Martin, lined with cafs andshops, up to the Canal delOurcq and Parc de la Villettewith its open spaces and fabu-lous childrens science museum,or beyond to the Marne river.See p. 140.

Strolling on top of a con-verted viaduct on thePromenade Plante. Pack a pic-nic or some games for the Jardinde Reuilly (see p. 140) or furtheron in the Bois de Vincennes (seep. 140), or come down to groundlevel near Bastille and look inthe interesting shops under theviaduct arcades. See p. 140.

Riding the transparent esca-lator tubes on the side of thePompidou Centre is almost asfun as seeing the works of artinside. Watch in wonder as therooftops get closer and closer, andlook to see which lucky devilshave rooftop gardens. See p. 124.

Tucking into Oriental ptis-series and couscous inside theParis Mosque (Mosque de

Blanc Manger at Les Ambassadeurs

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 4

Best C

hildrens Playgrounds &

Parks

5

Paris). On a sunny day opt for a table in the white-and-bluetiled courtyard where cheekysparrows fly down to beg forcrumbs. See p. 184.

Taking a boat trip along theSeine is a relaxing way to admirePariss beautiful quays and mon-uments. Its also the best way tosee the sculptures and under-bellies of the bridges. BothBateaux Parisiens (see p. 87)and Bateaux Mouches (see p. 87) companies offer commen-tated tours. You can also use theBatobus boats like a bus servicealong the river. See p. 49.

BEST CHILDRENSPLAYGROUNDS &PARKS

Jardin dAcclimatation in theBois de Boulogne is one of thebest parks in Paris for familieswith children of all ages: you can

pet animals, get soaking wetunder sprinklers, test the roller-coasters, take a relaxing boatride, swing off climbing frames,and navigate remote-controlledboats. Take time too to go boat-ing on the lake and laugh atyour funny forms in front of thedistorting mirrors. A handymini-train transports familiesfrom Porte Maillot to the Jardin.See p. 245.

Jardin de LuxembourgYoungsters love riding on thebacks of ponies and donkeys,and playing in the enclosed playarea and sandpits. Older chil-dren can try their hand at agame of chess if theyre braveenough to take on the ageingregulars. See p. 160.

Jardin du Palais RoyalCardinal Richelieus former gar-dens are exceedingly pretty, sur-rounded by covered arcades, andshaded by trees. Young childrenwill enjoy climbing on the mod-ernist black-and-white pillar-sculptures near the frontentrance. If you have older onesinto photography, get them totake some arty shots of the sculp-tures and shadows cast betweenthe arcade railings. See p. 65.

Jardin Tino Rossi With theInstitut du Monde Arabe (see p. 176) on one side and theSeine in the other, this pictur-esque park is a skateboardersparadise. See p. 194.

Parc de la Villette This is amust-see for families with chil-dren of any age. The park area ismade up of wide open lawns,

Enjoy the open space at Parc de la Villette

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 5

1H

ighl

ight

s o

f P

aris

& D

isne

ylan

d

6

perfect for kicking a ball aroundin, and enclosed parts sur-rounded by plants for a secludedread or picnic. Different playareas target children from babiesto 12-year-olds, featuring climb-ing frames, swings, andcarousels. See p. 246.

Pocahontas Village in DisneyThis is a tranquil spot for yourlittle ones to run around in awayfrom the queues and hype ofDisneyland Parks big attrac-tions. (Its also a secluded spot tobreast-feed a baby.) See p. 216.

TOP ATTRACTIONSFOR TEENS

Autour de Midi-Minuit Thiship Montmartre jazz institutionis a cool place to be seen, with orwithout parents in tow. Dine inthe upstairs restaurant beforeheading down to the vaulted cel-lar for some serious foot-tap-ping, and music played by bothconfirmed and up-and-comingartists. See p. 115.

Catacombs See if yourteenagers are as intrepid as theysay they are by taking them 18munderground to these fascinatingquarry tunnels, filled with theremains of millions of Parisians,whose bones had to be moved inthe 18th century when Parisscommunal graves burst. See p. 162.

Jeu de Paume At the bottomof the Tuileries gardens, thismuseum is devoted to experi-mental film and photography

a must-see for teenagers inter-ested in image. See p. 196.

Palais de Tokyo If yourteenagers are into modern,experimental art, theyll love theweird and wacky installations onshow in this 1930s Art Decopalace. Take a break in the funkyrestaurant, Tokyo Eat, wherelights look like giant floatingeggs. See p. 85.

The Twilight Zone Tower ofTerror in Disneylands WaltDisney Studios Park is theirbrand new thrillseekers ride that plunges the brave straightdown a 13-floor lift-shaft. See p. 226.

Tonnre de Zeus In the ParcAstrix Gallois theme-park, thisis the ultimate stomach-churner:a 30m vertical drop on Europesbiggest wooden rollercoaster. Seep. 246.

BEST MUSEUMS

Cit des Sciences In Parc dela Villette, the science museumhas been specially designed withchildren in mind and interactivedisplays allow children tomanipulate the exhibits. See p. 247.

Muse Carnavalet Thismuseum is not only free to getinto, its set in two of Parissmost lovely mansions and docu-ments the history of the city inan interesting and understand-able manner for children. See p. 127.

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 6

Best A

rt Sites

7

Muse de Cluny If your young-sters love history, this medievalmuseum will teach them abouthow people lived in the MiddleAges, and show them the oldRoman baths built by Parisianboatmen. See p. 182.

Muse dOrsay This formerrailway station houses one of theworlds best collections ofImpressionist art. Treat yourchildren to lunch in the Caf desHauteurs a relaxed table-serv-ice restaurant that looks out overthe city from behind a giant,transparent clock-face. See p. 154.

Muse du Quai Branly Thisneo-cubist building by the EiffelTower is a new museum dedi-cated to non-European cultures.The views from the rooftoprestaurant to the Eiffel Tower areparticularly good a special treatfor well-behaved children. See p. 82.

Muse Rodin Easily the mostcharming museum in Paris, thisstately home with its sumptuousstatue-studded gardens makesRodins statues accessible to chil-dren. If you dont want to goaround the house, come to enjoyan ice cream in the gardens free entry for parents with bug-gies. See p. 84.

The Louvre This world-famousmuseum is so big theres alwaysmore to see, even if youve beenbefore. Children particularlylove the mummies in theEgyptology department and thecastle remains in the MedievalLouvre. See p. 48.

BEST ART SITES

Centre Pompidou The avant-garde building is as much a pieceof art as the works inside themost important and comprehen-sive multi-disciplinary art collec-tion in Europe. The art spansfrom 1905 to today, with a sepa-rate section for post-1960sworks and a temporary exhibi-tion floor. See p. 124.

Cit de lArchitectureArchitecture as an art form isgiven pride of place in this vastmuseum where ceilings are tallenough to house portions ofcathedrals and a recreation of theLe Corbusier house. See p. 76.

Muse dArt Moderne de laVille de Paris The Pompidoudoesnt have it all; this excellentmuseum, opposite the Palais deTokyo, has a good selection ofCubist and Fauvist art. See p. 80.

Muse Gustave Moreau Forolder children looking forsomething different fromImpressionism, Fauvism, andCubism, Moreaus fantasist style

Explore the Louvre

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 7

1H

ighl

ight

s o

f P

aris

& D

isne

ylan

d

8

2000 B.C. Luttia thrives along a strategic crossing of the Seine, theheadquarters of the Parisii tribe.

52 B.C. Julius Caesar conquers Luttia during the Gallic Wars.200 A.D. Barbarian Gauls force the Romans to retreat to the fortifica-tions on Ile de la Cit.

300 Luttia is renamed Paris; Roman power weakens in northern France.350 Pariss Christianisation begins.400s The Franks invade Paris, and there is social transformation fromthe Roman to the Gallo-Roman culture.

466 Clovis, founder of the Merovingian dynasty and first non-Romanruler of Paris since the Parisii, is born.

800 Charlemagne, founder of the Carolingian dynasty, is crowned HolyRoman Emperor and rules from Aachen in modern Germany.

987 Hugh Capet, founder of Frances foremost early medieval dynasty,rises to power; his family rules from Paris.

1100s The Sorbonne University is founded and attracts scholars fromacross Europe.

1422 England invades Paris during the Hundred Years War.1429 Joan of Arc tries to regain Paris for the French. The Burgundians latercapture and sell her to the English, who burn her at the stake in Rouen.

1500s Franois I, first of the French Renaissance kings, embellishesParis but chooses to maintain his court in the Loire Valley.

1549 Henri II rules from Paris; construction of public and private resi-dences begins, many in the Marais.

1572 The Wars of Religion reach their climax with the St. BartholomewsDay massacre of Protestants.

1615 Construction begins on the Palais du Luxembourg for Henri IVswidow, Marie de Mdicis.

1636 The Palais Royal is launched by Cardinal Richelieu.1643 Louis XIV, the Sun King and the most powerful ruler since theCaesars, rises to power. He moves his court to the newly built Versailles.

1789 The French Revolution begins.1793 Louis XVI and his Austrian-born queen, Marie Antoinette, arepublicly guillotined.

1799 Napoleon Bonaparte crowns himself Emperor of France.1803 Napoleon abandons French overseas expansion and sells Louisianato America.

1812 Napoleon is defeated in the Russian winter campaign.1814 Aided by a coalition of Frances enemies, especially England, theBourbon monarchy under Louis XVIII is restored.

Parisian History in a Nutshell for Children

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 8

Best A

rt Sites

9

1821 Napoleon Bonaparte dies.1824 Louis XVIII dies, and Charles X succeeds him.1830 The more liberal Louis-Philippe is elected king. Paris industrialises.1848 A violent working-class revolution deposes Louis-Philippe, whosreplaced by autocratic Napoleon III.

185370 On Napoleon IIIs orders, Baron Haussmann redesigns Parisslandscapes.

1860s The Impressionist style of painting emerges.1870 The FrancoPrussian War ends in the defeat of France; a revolutionrises and the Third Republic elects its president, Marshal MacMahon.

18781937 Several World Fairs and redevelopment add monumentsto Pariss skyline, including the Tour Eiffel (1889) and the Sacr Coeur.

1895 Capt. Alfred Dreyfus, a Jew, is wrongfully charged with treasonand sentenced to life on Devils Island. The incident becomes thebiggest political scandal of 19th century France.

1898 Emile Zola publishes JAccuse in defence of Dreyfus and flees toexile in England.

1906 Dreyfus is finally exonerated, and his rank is restored.191418 World War I rips apart Europe. The Germans are defeated.1940 German troops invade Paris. The French government, underMarshal Ptain, evacuates to Vichy, while the French Resistance underGeneral Charles de Gaulle maintains symbolic headquarters in London.

1944 Allied troops liberate Paris; de Gaulle returns in triumph.1952 The creation, with Germany, of the ECSC (European Coal andSteel Community), the precursor of the modern European Union.

195462 War begins in Algeria and is eventually lost. Refugees floodParis, and the nation becomes divided over its North African policies.

1958 Frances Fourth Republic collapses; General de Gaulle is calledout of retirement to head the Fifth Republic.

1968 Pariss students and factory workers engage in a general revolt;the French government is overhauled in the aftermath.

1981 Franois Mitterrand is elected Frances first Socialist presidentsince the 1940s; hes re-elected in 1988.

1989 Paris celebrates the bicentenary of the French Revolution.1992 Euro Disney (Disneyland Resort Paris) opens.1994 Franois Mitterrand and Queen Elizabeth II ride under the EnglishChannel in the new Channel Tunnel.

2002 France replaces the Franc with the Euro, the new European currency.

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 9

1H

ighl

ight

s o

f P

aris

& D

isne

ylan

d

10

and choice of subject never failsto impress. See p. 100.

Orangerie Monet fans shouldflock to this lovely museum,which showcases theImpressionists famed lilies. See p. 55.

BEST SHOPS

Christian Constant Try thedelicious ganaches at this award-winning chef s chocolate shop.See p. 165.

Grands Magasins GaleriesLafayette and Printemps depart-ment stores behind the OpraGarnier are still winners for one-stop shopping with children intow, selling mens, womens andchildrens fashion, homeware,jewellery, make-up, and toys.See p. 114.

Jou Club Village Inside the19th-century covered Passagedes Princes, this toy mega-storesells everything from cowboy

and Indian miniatures to modelling kits for aeroplanes,Lego, dolls, party costumes, andcuddly toys. See p. 114.

Nature & Dcouvertes Thischild-friendly and environmen-tally friendly chain sells all sortsof interesting objects, games,and gifts linked to nature andscience. See p. 66.

Place de la Madeleine Allaround the Madeleine church,gourmet food shops stimulatehunger with truffles from LaMaison de la Truffe, biscuits andfoie gras from Fauchon, caviarfrom Caviar Kaspia, and exoticfoods from Hdiard. See p. 64.

Poilne Breadmakers sincebefore World War II, Poilnemakes delicious organic loavesand biscuits in a traditional ovenin the cellar. A small ball ofdough is taken from one batchand put into the next, creating anun-interrupted link from the firstPoilne loaf to the one your fam-ily can buy today. See p. 164.

The Orangerie is a must for Monet fans

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 10

Best E

ating O

ptio

ns

11

BEST FAMILYENTERTAINMENT

Attending a ballet or operaLet your family rub shoulderswith the Paris literati at theOpra Bastille (see p. 136) orgrande dame of the music scene,the 19th-century rococo OpraGarnier (see p. 100) Whetherfor a performance of Bizet or amen-only Swan Lake, dress withpomp and circumstance.

Going to the circus All thingscircus are lapped up big time inParis. From lions, tigers, and bears(oh-my!) in the traditional Big Top (Cirque Pinder, see p. 248) to avant garde acrobatics in theGrande Cleste Cirque (see p. 248)or pioneering acts in the CirquedHiver (see p. 135) theres some-thing for all the family.

Jazz clubs Paris and jazz gohand in hand. Try Autour deMidi-Minuit in Montmartre (seep. 115) or mosey on down to theLatin quarter where the goldenage of jazz lives on in a handfulof clubs. See p. 196.

BEST ACCOMMODATION

Aviatic Just off the beaten tracknear Montparnasse, this small,family-run hotel will pack you apicnic ideal for lunch in thenearby Luxembourg gardens. See p. 168.

Hotel Valadon Right by LesInvalides and the Eiffel Tower,

this hotel is used to welcomingfamilies with children of all ages.Budget travellers can store food in a communal fridge. See p. 90.

Le Crillon It was good enoughfor Ernest Hemingway, PierceBrosnan, and Zinedine Zidane,and its good enough for you.If you fancy a splurge, thisplace comes up trumps withexcellent family facilities and agourmet restaurant to die for.See p. 67.

Paris Oasis If you would like aself-catering apartment in theheart of Montmartre, these smallbut fully equipped flats evenhave a heated swimming poolyou can use. See p. 117.

Rsidence des Arts This fam-ily favourite is in a great locationon the Left Bank and offersapartments with a kitchenetteand space for three to four peo-ple. The next-door caf alsoserves decent food should youdecide to eat out. See p. 168.

BEST EATINGOPTIONS

Breakfast in America Finecrispy bacon, pancakes in maplesyrup, perfect burgers, fries, andmilkshakes make this a sought-after address in the Marais, andone worth queuing at, for week-end brunch or all-day-breakfast.See p. 147.

Coco & Co Eggs in everyshape, size and form are the

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 11

1H

ighl

ight

s o

f P

aris

& D

isne

ylan

d

12

only foodstuffs served in thiship caf. Opt for a boiled egg,an omelette, or oeuf-en-cocotte(egg baked with wine andcream), but expect perf egg-tion! See p. 172.

Le Potager du Marais If youor your children are vegetarians(and even if youre not) tastereigns supreme in this restaurantthat does things with vegetablesunlike anywhere else in the capi-tal. See p. 147.

Memre Paulette Large por-tions prevail in this reasonablypriced locals haunt, which feelslike its dcor (as well as themenus) havent changed sincethe 1940s. See p. 120.

Nos Anctres les GauloisPretend youre Astrix or Oblixin this fun restaurant where meatis cooked as in medieval timesand wine is poured straight fromthe barrel. See p. 199.

BEST DAYS OUT

Disneyland Mickey Mouse andthe cartoon legends created byWalt Disney make this themepark one of the most fun thingsto do in le-de-France. See p. 201.

Parc Astrix For a truly Frenchtheme park, Astrix the Gaulshangout wont disappoint chil-dren of any age. Watch the fabu-lous dolphin shows, get wet onthe log-flumes, and shake withfear and anticipation on therickety-looking wooden roller-coasters some of the biggest inEurope. See p. 245.

Versailles The Sun Kings palaceis not only an architectural won-der; its grounds are big enough tospend several hours in and areparticularly atmospheric when thefountains spring to life and classi-cal music is played. Les GrandesEaux Musicales, see p. 249.

Sleeping Beauty Castle, Disneyland

04_519332-ch01.qxp 7/25/08 12:54 PM Page 12