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10 Top Experiences

Coastal Drives

The bountiful Maharashtra coastline gives the weekend traveller a pick of the most stunning drives and his only task is to choose the best. Our shortlist includes the stretch between Shrivardhan and Diveagar (p46) that passes through the secluded beaches of Kondivli and Shekadi, and the gentle uphill drive between Karde and Anjarle (p64) that yields spectacular sunsets over the Arabian Sea.

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210 Top ExpEriEncEs

Dance Meditation in Buddha Grove

The Osho International Meditation Resort (p184) is full of the unexpected. From its contrarian dynamic meditation to spa services with spirituality, this mirage in the middle of a metro refuses to be predictable. Of the many fascinating experiences here, the dance meditations in the Buddha Grove, where maroon robed sanyasis whirl like dervishes with their faces turned towards the sky, are especially uplifting.

Sea Forts with Stories

The brave warriors who charted the history of this land have left behind forts along the coast of Maharashtra to tell the tales of their times. The majestic Janjira Fort (p24) – rising from the waters of the Arabian Sea – tells the story of sacrifice as the price for freedom. The remains of the fort of Korlai (p206) on the edge of the seashore, and the fort of Moti Daman (p57) talk of their once-mighty Portuguese rulers.

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Getting Around

CarsThree arterial highways – NH8, NH17 and the Mumbai–Pune Expressway – connect Mumbai to the northern, southern and eastern parts of the state respectively. These tarmacs are a sheer pleasure to drive on, and are routinely taken by road trippers heading out to their chosen destinations. Most of Maharashtra’s state highways and back roads are also well-maintained, thereby allowing easy access to destinations which are not serviced either by highways or trains. Your city car should generally be par for the course for most destinations covered in this book.

Tourist TaxisIf you’re feeling particularly lazy to drive, you could always hire a tourist taxi for a weekend trip out of Mumbai. An

air-conditioned vehicle such as a Scorpio or Innova could be hired for a daily rate of `2500 (up to 250km), and `10 thereafter for every additional kilometre. Many hotels provide overnight parking facilities for drivers too, ask while making a booking. And don’t forget to factor in `200 daily as driver’s allowance.

TrainsThe terminal stations of Mumbai Central and Mumbai CST have

Sitting conveniently at the junction of major Indian highways, Mumbai is one of the best starting points for short road trips. The rail network is equally good, and it is also possible to plan several trips as a combination of train and road travel, if not by train alone.

The Nashik–Mumbai rail line crosses

many falls

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The Vehicle

•Thoroughlycheckthevehicleandhaveitserviced.

•Ifyouhaveachoice,asmallercarwithgoodgroundclearanceisbetteronnarrow,hillyroadsthanabighulkingSUV.Atplaces,roadscangetverynarrowandacompactvehiclemakesiteasiertonegotiatetwistyroads.

•Packingoldnewspaperscancomeinhandy,fromwipingthewindshieldtoprotectingthecarpetfrommuddyfeet.Atorchisalwaysuseful.

DriVing in The hills

•Sticktotheleftlane,especiallyaroundblindcorners.Guardagainstthetendencytorunwide.

•Honkaroundcorners.

•Vehiclesgoinguphavetherightofway.

•Shiftdowngearsbeforesteepinclines,nothalfwaythrough.

•Don’tbalanceclutchandacceleratortostartoffoninclines.Useyourhandbrake.

•Nevercoastdownhillinneutral.Shifttoalowergear.

DriVing in Monsoons

•Topupyourwindshieldwasherfluid.

•Brakingdistancesincreaseonwetroadssogiveyourselfmoremarginthanyouusuallywould.

•Ifmistorfogrollsin,it’sbesttopulloverandstop.Ifyouhavetodrive,keepyourlightsonlowbeamanddriveslowly.

•Becarefulofrocksandmudcomingloosefromthehillsideandcreatingslipperyconditionsontheroad.

safeTy

•Carryphonenumbersofauthorisedservicecentresofyourcaralongthewayforeasycontact.

•Allpassengersshouldbeproperlybeltedandnotjustthepassengersinfront.

•Checkyourtyrepressure.Forsafety,inflateover2–3psiovertherecommendedpressure.

Expert Recommendation To get the best from your car hormazd sorabjee,editorofAutocar,India’sleadingmagazineonautomobiles,offersadviceondrivingintheWesternGhats.

4GettinG Around

express and slow connections to many of the destinations covered in this book. For some destinations, you could travel most of the way by train and then transfer to a local bus or auto for the remainder of the trip.

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Alibag

Why go?Alibag is the common stand-in for a cluster of villages neatly laid amidst thick coconut plantations along the coast. Each of these is a tiny ecosystem in itself, with its own beach, private houses and hotels. Sleepy in some parts, vibrant in others, Alibag is a lovely mix of a pastoral landscape generously sprinkled with the lifestyles of the rich and the famous.

Highlights• Buff et of beaches: Action-packed, touristy,

peaceful or picturesque.

• Kolaba fort: A testimony to Maratha maritime power.

• Seafood at Sanman: The pinnacle of coastal cuisine.

• Long drives: Miles of lush greenery, hugging the coast.

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Trip Planner

6ALIBAG

Best time to Visit

J F M A M J J A S O N D

great for

Stop at Dutta Batata Vada at Panvel or Kamats towards Karnala for food and clean toilets.

Getting There 95kmk 3hr NH17

• route: Drive to Vadhkal Naka via Pen and from there to Alibag via Poynad.

g 4hr

• MSRTC offers regular buses to Alibag from Bombay Central via Sion and Vashi.

f 45min + 20min drive

• Ferries and catamarans by PNP Ferries and Ajanta leave for Mandwa Jetty from Gateway of India at frequent intervals from 6am to 6pm. Tickets (`110) can be booked in advance and usually include bus fare to city centre. Alibag is 20min drive from there.

Top Low tide on the beachBottom Villas dot the Alibag coastline

Quick Facts

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A White Beach with a Dark Past

Kashid allows the simple pleasures of a beach holiday. Water sports, sunsets and bhajiya on the beach is what it promises, and that’s exactly what it delivers.

Murud, on the other hand, carries the baggage of its violent past which leaps out right from the point when you climb the hillock dividing the two beaches. Starting from the extravagant Nawab’s palace set against a raging sea and

the ruins of its watchtower framing the Padmadurg Fort, Murud’s saga peaks at the battle-weary Janjira Fort and the eerie Khokari tombs.

Thankfully Kashid’s carefree vibe acts as a perfect antidote to Murud’s somber mood, which is why they work best when bundled together. Consider the wildlife sanctuary and its resident leopard a happy bonus.

1 KasHiD BeaCHLike all good beaches, Kashid understands that a beachgoer might be either in the mood for noisy water sports or quiet contemplation. For this reason, it has obligingly divided itself into the main Kashid Beach that gives a distinctly Mumbai Chowpatty vibe, and the Chikani section which is more given to introspection. Whichever you choose, you will find the same almost-white sands and bigger-than-usual waves, giving you an idea why this is perhaps the best beach the region has to offer.

2 JaNJira fortWhen it comes to grand historic forts that stun you into silence, Janjira wins hands down. Spanning 22 acres and 19 towers mounted with cannons, a trip inside the blackened

Highlights1 Kashid Beach2 Janjira fort 3 Khokari tombs4 Phansad Wildlife

sanctuary5 idgah & Datta mandir6 garambi Waterfalls

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8KASHID–mURUD

ruins of this once impregnable fortress, harking back to the 15th-century Siddi regents of Abbyssinian descent, is intimidating to say the least. Famed for repeatedly thwarting Shivaji’s army, the old fort stands in brooding silence, outraged at being reduced to a mere tourist attraction. at the end of Darbar rd take the fork to Janjira till you reach rajapuri village. a short walk will take you to the ferry. Boats (`20) leave every 30min and a round trip takes 1hr. a guide (`200) is advised; 9am–5pm

3 KHoKari tomBsTourists who flock to the Janjira Fort seldom realise that the tombs of its rulers lie next door. Known as Echo Point amongst the locals, these magnificent 500-year-old stone mausoleums are believed to hide untold treasures. The cenotaph of the once powerful Siddi commander Surul Khan (legend has it that he sacrificed his young son to appease the gods) faces the sea, its arches framing an unforgettable picture. The experience of Janjira is incomplete without a visit to these forgotten tombs.Located on the left, 2km from rajapuri village on the main road

The Khokari tombs evoke the grandeur of its Siddi rulers

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4 AccommodationPearline Beach resort Hotel `%02528–222442, 225655, 9823037189; www.pearlinebeachresort.com; Dahanu Beach; d `1650; aWsp This Irani family-run establishment has been around for many years and offers value for money. Rooms are clean with balconies, many of which face the large swimming pool. The hotel has large open spaces, including a garden area in the front and a large pool dotted by coconut trees, beyond which is a pretty pond. The in-house restaurant offers a variety of Parsi, Indian and Chinese dishes.

save farm (tarpagholvad) resort `%02528–241130, 9822078153; www.savefarm.in; rampur, gholvad (e), Dahanu; `1300 per head, full board; apThe highlight of the farm run by the Save family is their agri-eco tourism effort called Tarpa which has gained popularity here. The farmland and orchards of chikoos, mangoes, coconut, litchis and avocado are spread over 35 acres. Guests can observe organic farming, rainwater harvesting, sustainable agriculture, fish farming at close quarters. The rooms are clean and spacious, resembling huts and machans. The meals are home style with plenty of organic vegetables.

orchard, the resort Hotel `%9923443799, 9860313383;

www.orchardsresort.com; gholwad station rd,Dahanu; d `1700; asp A relatively new resort in the area, Orchard has a pretty lawn surrounding the well furnished rooms. The loos are clean. The spacious property also has geese, turkeys and ducks dawdling around giving it a farm-like feel. There is a restaurant and swimming pool.

tapovan retreat Hotel `%02528–254649, 9820191153; www.tapovanretreat.com; Bordi Beach rd, opposite Vijay stumbh; d `1500; aThis quaint resort consists of ten rooms, most of which are spacious and well kept. Some of the rooms also have large living rooms thus giving it a more homely feel. It lies just a few minutes from the beach and close to the Bordi market area.

goolkhush resort Hotel `%02528–254182; opposite Parsee agiary, Bordi Beach rd; d `1650 as Goolkhush Resort, run by a warm Parsi family, is a small resort that resembles a homestay. The beds are the old-fashioned high, dark, wooden variety. A couple of the rooms have small balconies that face the street. The hotel offers basic comforts and is well maintained.

seawoods Beach Hotel Hotel `%02528–225669, 9271676181; www.seawoodsbeachhotel.com; 8/8, opp. Dahanu Beach, Narpad rd, agar, Dahanu (w); d `2000; ap

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10DAHANU–BORDI

The great thing about the hotel is that it offers rooms with splendid views of the beach. The rooms are basic and clean and have balconies attached. While the staff here, like any resort in a small town, are not very polished, they are helpful and courteous.

Hill Zill Hotel Hotel `%9824121460; tambolpada, Bordi-Borigaon; d `2300; asp Situated on a small hillock about a kilometre away from Bordi Beach, the Hill Zill Hotel is an extensive property. The rooms are clean and simple. The hotel also has a partially open-air restaurant overlooking their large swimming pool. In the evenings, the large, open space in the centre of the hotel is converted into a dining area.

5 EatingPearline restaurant multi-cuisine `%02528–222442, 225655, 9823037189; www.pearlinebeachresort.com; sea face, Dahanu Beach, Dahanu; 11am–3pm & 6.30pm–11pm The restaurant is

part of the Pearline Beach Resort. A simple but breezy restaurant, it serves from north Indian to Chinese to Parsi cuisine. The channa masala (`80); chicken tikka (`130) and veg pulao (`95) are worth the try.

crazy crab restaurant ``

%9923443799, 9860313383; www.orchardsresort.com; gholwad station rd, Dahanu; 11am–3pm & 6pm–11pm This is a popular restaurant located within Orchard and is partially open-air, surrounded by greenery. It serves some good seafood like crabs and prawns and also vegetarian, Punjabi, Chinese and Tandoori cuisine. The arbi chicken (`260) here is highly recommended besides the seafood.

chikooland restaurant `%02528–254102, 9823766695; www.anandresort.net; opposite sea face, Bordi Beach; 8.30am–9pm A pure veg restaurant located in Bordi within Anand Resort, Chikooland has a separate dining hall for Gujarati and Jain food and another for Punjabi cuisine. The restaurant serves up

A filling Parsi breakfast of spicy scrambled eggs

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