Marine PhysicsMarine PhysicsChapters 8, 9, 10Chapters 8, 9, 10

JUST COPY WHAT JUST COPY WHAT IS IS

UNDERLINED!!!!!!UNDERLINED!!!!!!

Influence of Currents on Climate

Pgs 9-20 to 9-21

Currents play a critical role in how oceans affect weather and climate by transporting heat from warm areas to cool areas.

Currents moderate climates- without the currents moving heat, the world’s climates would be more extreme.

Gulf Stream One of the deepest

surface currents-

carries heat Powerful, warm, swift Starts at the Gulf of Mexico, crosses the Atlantic Ocean Influences the east coast of N. America and the west

coast of Europe Moves warm air from

over the Gulf Stream inland Florida and N. Europe-

milder winters

California Current

S. California- mild climate due to the moderating effects of the Pacific Ocean The southerly current along the Calif. coast brings

cool water from the north, keeping it cooler than it normally would be in the summer

Factors that Affect Direction and Patterns of

Major Ocean Surface Currents

Pgs 9-3 to 9-5

#1 Wind Transfers energy to the water it blows across

by the force of friction on the water’s surface Causes both surface currents and waves Ekman Transport/Spiral= Current moves to

the right of the Wind at a 45 degree angle Major wind belts:

Trade winds Westerlies Polar Easterlies

#2 Land Masses interrupt the flow of ocean currents creating

closed circular current systems called gyres. Forces currents to turn

#3 Coriolis Effect influences the wind by giving it a circular flow

pattern the air deflects toward the right in the Northern

Hemisphere and toward the left in the Southern Hemisphere- same with currents

Christopher Columbus reached the new world thanks to the Coriolis effect Note: If the Earth did not rotate and remained

stationary, the atmosphere would circulate between the poles (high pressure areas) and the equator (a low pressure area) in a simple back-and-forth pattern. But because the Earth rotates, circulating air is deflected.

#4 Temperature

Convection currents Vertical movement of currents caused by

temperature differences Temperature divides layers of water Deep sea vs. surface currents

Cause of the Coriolis Effect

Earth’s rotation- adds an apparent sideways motion to objects moving over the Earth’s surface.

Pilots need to correct their flight path based on the earth rotating under the airplane, which is the Coriolis effect.

In the inertial frame of reference (upper part of the picture), the black object moves in a straight line. However, the observer (red dot) who is standing in the rotating frame of reference (lower part of the picture) sees the object as following a curved path.

Tides

Pgs 10-3 to 10-24

What are Tides?

Daily variations in the ocean’s level The mean average tide

occurs later each day by 50 min

HighLow =6 hours 13 min.

HighHigh=12 hours 25 min.

most noticeable at the shore, but affect the entire ocean.

Cause of Tides Result from the gravitational pull of the moon, and, to a

lesser degree, the sun Earth is not a perfect sphere Time of the month Shape of the ocean basin

Large, wide basins have smaller tidal ranges Narrow, shallow basins have larger tidal ranges

Season Coriolis effect

Spring and Neap Tides Spring tides: occur during the full moon and new

moon (they do not have anything to do with the season Spring)

occur when the Earth, the Sun, and the Moon are in a line- every 2 weeks

high tides are very high and the low tides are very low

especially strong tides

Spring Tide

Neap tides occur during quarter moon phases occur when the gravitational forces of the Moon

and the Sun are perpendicular to one another (with respect to the Earth).

results in a smaller difference between high and low tides

especially weak tides

Neap Tide

Tidal Patterns & Currents

pgs 10-21 to 10-24

Tidal Pattern Diurnal tide

Single high and low tide daily

Location: Gulf of Mexico

Semidiurnal Tide Two “equal” high and

low tides Location: east coast of

U.S.

Mixed Tide Two unequal high and

low tides Location: Pacific coast

of U.S.

Waves

Parts of a Wave (draw figure)

Movement of Water in a Wave

A wave is the transmission of energy through matter.

•As the wave approaches, individual particles of water move in circular patterns as the wave’s energy moves through the water•Orbital motion

Tsunamis

Sometimes reaching heights of 40 meters (120 ft.) or more, tsunamis are the most dramatic and destructive of waves.

Cause of Tsunamis A tsunami results from

sudden water displacement caused by: Landslide Iceberg falling into the

sea from a glacier Undersea volcanoes Earthquake Also called tidal waves Shallow water waves,

fast moving