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بلندريسندگي الياف LongStaple Spinning

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?Long Staple Fibersالياف بلند ؟

l > 50 mm

Wool , Animal Fibers , Flax , Jute , … & Long Staple Synthetic Fibers

Wool

؟چرا سيستواي هتفات ! بلذ، ريسذگي الياف كتاريسذگي الياف 188Textile Technology

روشهاي توليد نخ از الياف پشم

Woolen Spinning System روش ريسندگي پشمي -١

Worsted Spinning System روش ريسندگي فاستوني -2

Semi-Worsted Spinning System روش ريسندگي نيمه فاستوني -3

تع باال در استفاد از الياف هختلف براي تليذ خاي هتسط ضخين Tex 2000-40: هحذد ور خ تليذي

خ پالتاي ضخين, خ خاب قالي , خ پد پت

لسم استفاد از الياف ظريف شاهل عوليات شا زي براي تليذ خاي ظريف Tex 70-11: هحذد ور خ تليذي

...كت داهي , خاي ظريف هرد استفاد در پارچ اي كت شلاري

.در ايي رش شا زي ذارين لي در باقي اصل شبي سيستن فاستي استNm 20-8: هحذد ور خ تليذي

خ كاها, هاشيي خ خاب فرش189Textile Technology

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تفاوت بين كاالي فاستوني و پشمي

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خصوصيات مهم فيسيكي شيميايي الياف پشم از نقطه نظر ريسندگي

ساختمان ليف پشم

Cuticleخارجي •

Cortexمياني •

Medullaداخلي •

هستعذ وذي شذى(Scale)داراي فلس

(Para & Ortho)(Crimp)

Kemp :

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sMerino

S

Crossbred

″ ″ ″ ″ S

″ ″ ″ ″ S

sCarpet Wool

(Qs)(Nw)

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Woolen Spinning System

(Streichgarn)

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•(New Virgin Wool)•(Shoddy)•(Mungo)•(Noil)•(Man-made fibers, Rayon, Cotton)

•(Wastes)•(Extracted wool)•(Flocks)•(Slide wool / Pulled wool)

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Spinning Carding Blending & Oiling Fiber preparation

SortingScouring

CarbonizingDrying

SortingRag Pulling

Garnetting

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Pile, Stack or Layer BlendingBatch System

Continuous BlendingSemi-Continuous Blending

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••

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(Rubbing)(Slubbing)

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(Slubbing)

Scribbler (Breaker) Carder (Finisher)

Scribbler (Breaker) Intermediate Card Carder (Finisher)

Intermediate Feed

Hopper

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–

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Taker-inCylinder (Swift)WorkerStripperFancyDoffer

FANCYWORKER

STRIPPER

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M. S. Ahmadi207Textile Technology

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Condensing

(Rubbing)(Slubbing)

(Condenser creel)CakeCheese

CakeSpool

Ring Doffer CondenserTape Condenser

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•Single Doffer Condenser•Double Doffer Condenser

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•Series Tape Condenser•Endless Tape Condenser

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Ordinary Condenser CreelTandem CreelTraversing Creel

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Mule

Woolen Ring

––

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.

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Woolen Ring Frame

Temporary Twist(False Twister)

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(Balloon Reducer)

mm–mm

n> n>

n>

Tex(yarn)/Tex(fiber)

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Worsted Spinning System

(Kammgarn)

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•(New Virgin Wool)•(Polyester , Acrylic)

Worsted : Descriptive of yarns spun wholly from combedwool in which the fibres are reasonably parallel, andfabrics or garments made from such yarns.

Worsted spun : A term applied to yarn spun from staple

fibre processed on worsted spinning machinery bycarding or preparing, combing, and drafting; or byconverting a continuous filament tow and drafting; or

from a combination of slivers or rovings from both

systems.

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Worsted Flow Chart

Raw wool and hair

Sorting & Blending

Dust removal (if needed)

Scouring

Drying

Preparer Gilling(6 operations)

Combing(Lister or Nobel)

Carding

Intermediate Gilling(usually 3 gill boxes)

Combing(usually Rectilinear,Sometimes Noble)

Top finishing(usually 2 gill boxes)

Continued

Fibers shorter than 200mm

Maximum fiber length

Fibers longer than 200mm

Maximum fiber length

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Top dyeing (or bleaching)

Backwashing

Drying

Blending

Comb preparation(3 gill boxes)

Recombing(Rectilinear or Nobel)

Gill mixing(2 operations)

Top finishing(usually 2 gill boxes)

Continued

56’s wool quality and

coarser

58’s wool quality and

finer

–

M. S. Ahmadi222Textile Technology

Drawing(2 to 5 operations)

Spinning

Winding and Clearing

Folding and Re-winding if required

–

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A- Worsted Top MakingB- Worsted Yarn Making

Tops

A

1- New Virgin Wool

2- Loose Wool (Undyed) ?

BDrawingWorsted Spinning.

B

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Worsted Top Making

2.5 in

2.5 in

backwash

HeilmanRectilinearNobel(Circular)

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(gilling)(preparing)

(fallers)

Carding or Preparing ?

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BreastMorel

Dickey

Dickey

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Garnett

breast

FancyDickey

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working width 2.5-3.5 mdiameter of main cylinder 900, 1200, 1500 mmcylinder speed 1200 m/min doffer speed 65 m/mindelivery speed of up to 350 m/min

doffing comb capable of 2500-3200 or 3600 strokes per minute231Textile Technology

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Worsted Drawing

Gilling(Gill box)

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Open Gill box

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Intersecting Gill box

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Chain Gill box

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Rotary Gill box

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Caterpillar Gill box

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Nip Gauge :

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Combing Process

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1- Heilman or French (Rectilinear) (1846)2- Lister or Nip (1846-51)3- Holden or Square motin (1847-48)4- Noble or Circular (1853)

RectilinearSant Andrea NovaraNSC

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(Rectilinear)246Textile Technology

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(Nip/min)

Tear :

Top finishing

WorstedTop

Top finishing

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MilleniumSant Andrea Novara

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ERANSC

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Backwashing

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Recombing

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(Noil)

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(Rubbing)

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Worsted Spinning Process

Conventional Ring Spinning

Solo Spinning

Compact Spinning

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IDEACOGNETEX 262Textile Technology

Degree of Twist Worsted System Factor

Metric System Factor

Soft 1.67 62

Normal, Filling 2.28 85

Normal, Warp 3.07 114

Medium hard 4.22 157

Hard or Crepe 5.32 197

Turn per inch = Factor × √Nw

Turn per meter = Factor × √Nm

The Wira Textile Data Book → n = 30 – 35Wool Handbook → n > 40

n > 60

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Semi-worsted Spinning System

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Spinning Multiple Gilling Carding Opening & Blending

Roving (Optional)

Direct Spinning

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2.5m – 3m – 3.5 m130 – 150 rpm 50m/min 450 kg/h

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CF 60NSC270Textile Technology