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है”ह”ह

IS 12131 (2005): Textiles - Worsted Suitings (AmalgamatingIS 12132:1987) [TXD 4: Wool and Wool Products]

IS 12131:2005(Amalgamating IS 12132: 1987)

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TEXTILES

(9m7ylawT)

Indian Standard

— WORSTED SUITINGS —SPECIFICATION

(First Revision)

ICS 59.020

0 BIS 2005

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDSMANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG

NEW DELHI 110002

July 2005 Price Group 4

Wool and Wool Products Including Floor Coverings Sectional Committee, TX 04

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard (First Revision) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the drafl finalized bythe Wool and Wool Products Including Floor Coverings Sectional Committee had been approved by the TextileDivision Council.

This standard was first published in 1987. This revision has been taken up to update the standard on the basisof experience gained during its use to cover the following major changes:

a) Keeping in view the similarity in requirements and end use, IS 12132 : 1987 ‘Specification for polyesterwool blended worsted suitings’ has been amalgamated with this standard. Accordingly, the title of thisstandard has been modified to cover polyester wool blended worsted suitings also.

b) Sampling and criteria for conformity have been modified.

The composition of the Committee responsible for formulation of this standard is given in Annex C.

For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the fhal value,observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with1S2:1960 ‘Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)’. The number of significant places retained in therounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard.

IS 12131:2005

Indian Standard

TEXTILES — WORSTED SUITINGS —SPECIFICATION

(First Revision)1 SCOPE

This standard prescribes the requirements of worstedsuitings.

2 REFERENCES

The standards listed in Annex A contain provisionswhich through reference in this text, constituteprovision of this standard. At the time of publication,the editions indicated were valid. All standards aresubject to revision and parties to agreement based on ‘this standard are encouraged to investigate thepossibility of applying the most recent editions ofthe standards.

3 TERMINOLOGY

For the purpose of this standard, the followingdefinitions along with those given in IS 11206 shallapply.

3.1 All Wool Worsted Suiting — Fabric made fromvirgin wool spun on combed fibre spinning system.

3.2 Worsted Spun Yarn — Yam spun from long fibreslivers after removal of short fibres in the combingprocess.

3.3 Virgin Wool — Pure and new wool, commerciallyit means wool that has not been processed or usedbefore and is thus distinctly different from reprocessedwool or reused wool.

4 MANUFACTURE

Yam used in the manufacture of these fabrics shall bespun on combed fibre spinning system tiom virgin woolor with its blend with other fibres.

5 REQUIREMENTS

5.1 The worsted suitings shall meet the requirementsas given in Table 1.

5.2 The worsted suitings shall be generally free fromobjectionable flaws such as:

a) Missing ends and picks;

b) Floats;

c) Stains;

d) Weft bars and warp section marks;

e) Big slubs, knots and specks unless they are apart of the design;

t) Prominently noticeable thick and thin places;

g) Cuts and holes; and

h) Dyeing defects (streaks, patches).

6 MARKING

6.1 The cloth shall be marked with the following:

a) Name of the material;

b) Manufacturer’s name, initials or of trade-mark

c) Year of manufacture;

d) Length and width of the piece; and

e) Blend composition in accordance with IS 1793.

6.2 BIS Certification Marking

The worsted suitings may also be marked with theStandard Mark.

6.2.1 The use of the Standard Mark is governed bythe provisions of Bureau ofIndian Stan&r& Act, 1986and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. Thedetails of conditions under which the license for theuse of Standard Mark maybe granted to manufacturersor producers may be obtained tlom Bureau of IndianStandards.

7 PACKING

7.1 Packing may be done either in the form of a ‘bale’or ‘case’ as required by the buyer.

7.2 Bale Packing

Each piece of fabric shall be folded to half of its widthover a cardboard or straw board of suitable size andthickness. Each piece shall then be wrapped with low-density polyethylene film of minimum 40 micronthickness and conforming to IS 2508. A suitablenumber of such pieces shall again be covered withanother layer of polyethylene film of the same typefollowed by a waterproof packing paper conforming toIS 1398 and then be enclosed in an outer layer ofhessian cloth/HDPE woven fabric, preferablyconforming to Type 1 of IS 2818 (Part 2)/IS 6899respectively, in the form of a bale. The bale shall befinally strapped with metallic/synthetic straps.

7.3 Case Packing

Each piece of fabric to be packed shall be fwst foldedto half of its width over a cardboard or straw board ofsuitable size and thickness. Each piece shall then be

1

IS 12131:2005

TabIel Requirements for Worsted Suitings

(Clause 5.1)

SI Characteristic Requirement Method of Test,No. Ref to

(1) (2) (3) (4)

O Length, m tolerance

ii)

iii)

iv)

v)

vi)

vii)

viii)

ix)

@

xi)

xii)

xiii)

Width, cm tolerance

Mrrss,g/mz tolerance

Crease recovery angle, J4in:

a) Warp way

b) Weft way

Bending rigidity, mg cm:

a) Warp way

b) Weft way

Drape, percent

Pill ing resistance

Fibre content:

a) All WOOIsuitingWool content, percent

Tolerance

b) Blend suiting:

1) Wool, percent

2) Polyester or other tibres, percent

Breaking strength on 5 cm x 20 cm N (kgf), A4irr:

a) Warp way

b) Wefi way

Relaxation shrinkage, percent, Mu

a) Warp way

b) Wetl way

NOTES

Colour fastness to:

a) Light

b) Washing : Test 2

I) Change in colour of the test specimen

2) Staining on the adjacent fabrics

c) Dry-cleaning:

I) Change in colour of the specimen

2) Staining of the solvent

d) Dry-heat treatment

1) Change in colour of the test specimen

2) Staining on the adjacent fabrics

pH value of aqueous extract

Solvent extractable matter, percent, MUX

As agreed/declared/marked no negative Is 1954tolerance

AS agreed/declared/marked *1.25 1s1954percent subject to a m&imum of 2 cm

As agreed/declared/marked +3 pereent 1S 1964 (see Note I)

1S4681

140”

14cr’

lloto 170

85 to 100

40 to 55

4 or better

100Up to 0.3 percent for inadvertentfibre up to 5 percent for decorative/technical reason by using non-celhrlosictibres

As declared +3 units

As declared +3 units

200 (20)

200 (20)

IS 6490

IS 8357

1s 10971

IS 8476

IS 2006

IS 1969

Annex B

2.0

2.0

4 or better IS 2454

4 or better IS 3361

4 or better

IS 4802

4 or better

4 or better

IS 4636

3-4 or better

3-4 or better

5.0 to 7.5 IS 1390

1.0 IS 4390 (see Note 2)

1 In case of oven-dry method, the moisture regain values for wool and other fibres shall be as given in IS 13157.

2 While testing this requirement, petroleum ether solvent shall be used in place of benzene-methyl alcohol mixture.

2

wrapped with low density polyethylene film ofminimum 4(I micron thickness conforming toIS 2508. A suitable number of such pieces shall thenbe covered with a layer of kraft paper conforming toIS 1398 and then enclosed in a wooden case. The caseshall be finally strapped with metallic/synthetic straps.

8 SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FORCONFORMITY

8.1 Lot

The quantity of cloth delivered to a buyer against onedespatch note shall constitute a lot.

IS 12131:2005

8.2 The conformity of a lot to the requirements of thestandard shall be determined on the basis of the testscarried out on the samples selected from the lot.

8.3 Unless otherwise agreed to between the buyerand the seller, the number of pieces to be selected atrandom shall be in accordance with co] 2 and 3 ofTable 2. To ensure randomness of selection, IS 4905may be used.

8.4 Number of Tests and Criteria for Conformity

8.4.1 The number of tests and criteria for conformityshall be as given in Table 3.

Table 2 Sample Size and Criteria for Conformity

0 (Clause 8.3, and Table 3)

S1 No. Lot Size Sample Size Acceptance Number Sub-sample Size

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

O up to 50 8 0 5

ii) 51 - 150 20 1 5

iii) 151 - 280 32 2 5

iv) 281 - 500 50 3 5

v) 501-1200 80 5 5

vi) 1201 -3200 125 7 5

vii) 3201 and above 200 10 5

3

IS 12131:2005

Table 3 Number of Tests and Criteria for Conformity

(Clause 8.4. 1),

S1No. Characteristics No. of Pieces Criteria for Conformity

(1) (2) (3) (4)

O

ii)

iii)

iv)

v)

vi)

vii)

viii)

ix)

x)

xi)

xii)

Length

Width

Mass per square metre

Relaxation shrinkage

Pilling resistance

Crease recovery angle(warp way and wett way)

Bending rigidity

Drape, percent

Blend percentage

Breaking load

Colour fastness

Solvent extractable matter andpH value of aqueous extract

NOTE

According to COI3 of Table 2

do

do

According to COI5 of Table 2

do

According to col 5 of Table 2

do

do

do

do

do

do

Length of each piece not to measure lessthan the declaredor markedlength

Width of each piece to remain within+2 cm of the declared width

Mass per square metre of each piece toremain within *3 percent of the declaredvahre

(Z) + 0.4 R < specified vahre(see Note)

All the test specimens to satisfy therelevant requirements

(i) -0.4 R> specified valu~see Note)

All the test specimens to satisfy therelevantrequirements

do

do

do

do

do

(i) = average value obtained by dividing the sum of the observed values by the number of test results.

R= range, that is, the difference between the maximum and minimum in a set of observed values.

4

IS 12131 :200s

IS 1

1390:

1398:

>.

983

982

1793:1973

1954:1990

1964:2001

1969:1985

2006:1988

2454:1985

2508:1984

2818 (Part2) :1971

3361:1979

ANNEX A

(Clause 2)

LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS

Title

Methods for determination ofDH value of aqueous extractsDf textile materials (firstrevision)

Packing paper, water-proof,bitumen laminated (secondrevision)

Guide for marking textilematerials made of wool @rstrevision)

Determination of length andwidth of woven fabrics —Methods (second revision)

Textiles — Methods fordetermination of mass per unitlength and mass per unit area offabrics (second revision)

Methods for determination ofbreaking load and elongation ofwoven textile fabrics (secondrevision)

Method for quantitative chemicalanalysis of binary mixtures ofprotein fibres with certain othernon-protein fibres (secondrevision)

Methods for determination ofcolour fastness of textilematerials to artificial light(Xenon lamp) @st revision)

Specification for low densitypolyethylene films (secondrevision)

Indian Hessian: Part 2 305 and229 g/m2 at 16 percent contractregain (fhst revision)

Method for determination ofcolour fastness of textilematerials to washing, Test 2(first revision)

IS No.

4390:200

4636:1988

4681:1981

4905:1968

4802:1988

6359:1971

6490:1971

6899:1997

8357:1977

8476:1977

10971:1984

11206:1984

13157:1991

Title

Textiles — Method forestimation of solvent solublematter in textile materials @strevision) (AmalgamatingIS 5 152)

Method for determination ofcolour fastness of textilematerials to dry-heat treatments(excluding pressing) (firstrevision)

Method for determination ofrecovery fkom creasing of textilefabrics by measuring the angleof recovery (first revision)

Methods for random sampling

Method for determination ofcolour fastness of textilematerials to dry-cleaning @rstrevision)

Method for conditioning oftextiles

Method for determination ofstifl%essof fabrics — Cantilevertest

Textiles — High densitypolyethylene (HDPE) wovenfabrics — Specification (secondrevision)

Method for assessment of fabricdrape

Method for determination ofwool content in woollen textilematerials

Method for determination ofpillfng resistance of fabrics

Glossary of textile terms —Wool and other animal fibres,their processing and products

Textile fibres — Commercialmoisture regains —Specification

IS 12131:2005

ANNEX B

(Table 1)

METHODS FOR DETERMINATION OF RELAXATION SHRINKAGE

B-1 Prior to testing, the specimens are conditionedto moisture equilibrium in a standard atmosphereat 65 + 2 percent relative humidity and 27 + 2°Ctemperature (see IS 6359).

B-2 Draw one square test specimen measuringapproximately 900 mm x 400 mm and indicate warpdirection by cutting a ‘V’ mark on one side of thewarp edge.

B-3 Mark this piece with the help of a transparenttemplate which enables 250 mm apart marking andmark four such points in the warp as well as weftdirection as shown in Fig. 1. Stitch a piece of threadof contrast colour at the marked points with a needleto make a permanent marking. The marking may bedone by an indelible marking pen.

B-4 Lay the test specimen flat in a shallow tray ofsize 1000 mm x 1000 mm x 40 mm and soak for 2 hin water weighing twenty times its own weight andleave it undisturbed for 2 h. In case of difficulty inwetting, a small quantity of non-ionic wetting agentmay be used.

B-5 After 2 h take out the test specimen and removeexcess water from it by blotting it gently with a Turkish

towel or blotting paper. Lay the test specimen flatwithout wringing and allow to dry completely underatmospheric conditions. Afier drying, the distancebetween each pair of points is measured accuratelyafler keeping the transparent template over the fabric,taking care not to stretch or distort the fhbric whilemeasuring. Calculate the percentage shrinkage for eachpair of points in both warp and weft directions asfollows:

Relaxation shrinkage, R, for every pair is given by:

100 (L. – L,)R.

LOwhere

LO= distance between pair of marks before treatment(that is 250 mm), and

L,= distance between pair of marks after treatment.

B-6 The average of the warp way shrinkagepercentages and the coverage of the weft wayshrinkage percentages as obtained in B-5 shall berounded off to the nearest 0.1 percent and shall bereported as warp way and weft way relaxationshriiage (in percentage) of the fabric in the lot.

‘1250

‘1

~ 400 ~

All dimensions in millimetres.

400 .

1-

FIG. 1 METHOD OF MARKINGTHETEST SPECIMEN

6

IS 12131:2005

ANNEX C

(Forewt2r@

COMMITTEE COMPOSITION

Wool and Wool Products Including Floor Coverings Sectional Committee, TX 04

Organization

Central Sheep & Wool Research Institute (lCARJ Avikanagar

All India Wool Felt and Narndha Association, JaipurAll India Woollen Shoddy Mills Association, PanipatAmritsar Swadeshi Woollen Mills, MumbaiAll India Carpet Manufacturer’s Association, Bhadohi

Bikaner Woollen Mills, BikanerCentral Sheep & Wool Research Institute (ICAR), AvikanagarCentral Wool Development Board, JodhpurCarpet Export Promotion Council, New DelhiDirectorate of Harsdicratls, Govt of J & K, SrirsagarDirectorate General of Supplies& Disposals (Inspection Wing),

New DelhiDirectorate of Animal Husbandry, Govt. of Rajstban, JaipurKhadi and Village Industries Commission, Mumbai

Mumbai Grahak Prmehayatj MumbaiMinistry of Defence (R&D), New Delhi

Obeetee Private Limited, Mirzapur

OffIce of the Textile Commissioner, MumbaiOffice of the Jute Commissioner, Kolkata

Reliance Industries Ltd, Mumbai

Raymond Woollen Mills Ltd,ThaneTextiles Committee, Mumbai

Wool and Woollen Export Promotion Council, Delhi

Wool Mark Company, New De[hi

Wool Research Association, Thane

BIS Dkectorate General

Representative(s)

Smu P. C. PATN (Chairman)DR D. B. fihL+KYAwAR(A/terrrate)

SHRISumrrrrBMCLWALSmu S. K. AGGARWAL%51 RAJSVKHANNAPsrE310rmr

HONORARYSECWARY(Alternate)Ssnu JAICHANDLALBomraADRD. B. SHAKYAWARDRD. K. DHODAWATSmo T. S. CHADHASr+ruM. A. kLWUBAND

Sr+mSUNDERLALSmu SAMIRONROY(Alternate)

DRU. K. THANWSmu S. K. SmHA

SHIUS. P. GUFTA(Alternate)REPRESENTATIVE

MO S. C. JAtNSmu R. INDUSHSKAR(Alternate)

!kIU RAJESHKAPOORSrca L B. SINOH(Alternate)

Smu S. P. GHOSALASSISTANTDIRECTOR(JT)

ASSLSTANTDIRMTOR(Tech) (Alternate)SHSUs.P. GOMFIER

SsnuVrNAYCHATURVMX(Alternate)DRG. S. SrNGHSmu P. K. MANDAL

SrmrB. K. PRASAD(Alternate)DRD. K. VssrMA

Smu ASHOKK. IVLADHRA(Alternate)DRS. K. CHAUDHUIU

SHSUASUNOAMS* (Alternate)Mu S. C.AGARWAL

SrwTG. P. RANS(Alternate)Smu M. S.VERNW,Dmctor (Textiles)~epresenting Direetor General (Ex-oficio Member)]

Member SecretarySHRJB. L. BHARAm

Joint Dkector (TXD), BIS

7

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BIS is a statutory institution established under the Bureau of Indian Standardr Act, 1986 to promoteharmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality certification of goods andattending to connected matters in the country,

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Review of Indian Standards

Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also reviewedperiodically; a standard along with amendments is reaffirmed when such review indicates that no changes areneeded; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for revision. Users of Indian Standardsshould ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition by referring to the latest issue of‘BIS Catalogue’ and ‘Standards: Monthly Additions’.

This Indian Standard has been developed from Dot: No. TX 04 (0739).

Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected

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