Post on 08-Jul-2015
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Knowledge Paper
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Driving Growth through Innovation
FICCI TAG 2014
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FICCI TAG 2014
Table of Contents 1. Overview of Textile and Garment Sector .................................................................................... 2
1.1. Global Market – Present and Future....................................................................................... 2
1.2. Global Trade of Textile and Garments .................................................................................... 4
1.3. Indian Textile and Garment Industry ...................................................................................... 6
2. Innovation and Textile Industry ................................................................................................ 11
2.1. Innovation – The Essence of Business .................................................................................. 11
2.2. Innovation in Textile Industry – Need and Impact ................................................................ 12
2.3. Some Recent Innovations ..................................................................................................... 13
3. Institutional Framework in India Supporting Innovation .......................................................... 23
3.1. Textile Research Associations (TRAs) .................................................................................... 23
3.2. National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) .................................................................. 28
3.3. Handloom and Handicrafts ................................................................................................... 30
4. Innovation Case Studies in Indian Textile and Garment Industry ............................................. 32
4.1. NYCO Fabric for Replacement of P/C Fabric ......................................................................... 32
4.2. Hydrophobic Textiles with Plasma Technology .................................................................... 33
4.3. Compression Bandage Pressure Measurement Tester ......................................................... 34
4.4. High Speed Charkha .............................................................................................................. 36
4.5. Extraction of Colorants from Microorganisms ...................................................................... 37
4.6. Improvisation of Maheshwari Weaving ................................................................................ 38
4.7. Itch Free Woolens ................................................................................................................. 39
4.8. Woven Packaging Bags of Poly Lactic Acid (PLA) .................................................................. 40
4.9. Enhanced Oil Recovery from Cotton Seeds by Pulsed Electric Field Technology ................. 41
4.10. Jute / Bamboo Composites for Application in Rural Areas ................................................... 42
5. Promoting Innovation and Way Ahead ..................................................................................... 44
About FICCI............................................................................................................................................ 47
About Wazir Advisors ............................................................................................................................ 48
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1. Overview of Textile and Garment Sector Textile and Garment (TAG) sector is a major sector globally. Since the initial stages of global
industrialization, TAG sector has remained at the forefront in generating employment and adding
significantly to manufacturing output and exports for countries. TAG industry can be attributed as the
first organized industry when it grew out of the industrial revolution in the 18th Century. Countries
like Britain, Italy, France, Japan, etc. had a thriving TAG industry during their initial phase of growth,
which supported their economic growth. The same is true today for nations like Bangladesh, Vietnam
and Cambodia.
Since the output of TAG industry is a basic requirement for sustenance, the long term growth trend of
industry had always been positive. However, production bases have kept shifting all along. Increase in
manufacturing costs in developed countries, which were the main markets also, caused growth of TAG
sector in Asian countries which had raw material advantage as well. Soon enough the manufacturing
base spread to smaller nations, particularly those which got preferential access to major markets of
USA, Europe and Japan.
The next phase of consolidation / reshuffling is on the cards. Presently, the domestic demand of TAG
within the region is growing (mainly in China and India) rapidly. Will China be able to meet its internal
demand and still be able to maintain 40% share in global trade? Will India be the next big thing? Will
other Asian countries be able to maintain trade growth rate of 20% in future also? Will Africa rise as a
dark horse? Answers to these questions, as and when they materialize, will shape the TAG industry in
medium to long term.
1.1. Global Market – Present and Future
The current global garment market is estimated at approximately US$ 1.15 trillion which forms nearly
1.8% of the world GDP. Almost 75% of this market is concentrated in EU‐27, USA, China and Japan.
Figure 1: Global Garment Market (2013)
Source: Wazir Advisors
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An analysis of per capita spend on garment in various countries shows a significant difference between
numbers in developed and developing economies. Within the major markets, India has the lowest per
capita spend on garment (US$ 37) which is only 3% of the highest one viz. Australia (US$ 1,131).
Figure 2: Per Capita Spend on Garment in 2013 (In US$)
Source: Wazir Advisors
There is a positive correlation between consumer’s spending on various categories and the economic
stature of each country. In lesser developed economies, consumer’s spending is highest on food
followed by clothing, housing and other items. In developed economies, as the consumer’s disposable
income increases, the share of basic categories such as garment reduces, whereas the share of new
categories like entertainment, recreation, consumer durables, travel, etc. increases. Though in
absolute value terms, the spending on clothing will not go down in future in developed countries, but
the increase will be slower than growth of disposable incomes.
Based on this fact, it is expected that the per capita spend on garment will grow at a faster rate than
the economy in Brazil, Russia, India and China; whereas it will be slower or at par with the economic
growth in developed markets over next few years. When the population base of China and India is
taken into account; one can see the enormous growth in consumption in both these countries.
Figure 3: Present and Projected Per Capita Spend on Garment (In US$)
Source: Wazir Advisors
37
122
163
287
300
703
725
885
887
1,131
India
China
Global
Brazil
Russia
EU‐27
USA
Japan
Canada
Australia
1,131
887 885 725 703
300 287 122
37
1,709
1,265 1,149
817 841 756
460 383
129
Australia Canada Japan USA EU‐27 Russia Brazil China India
2013 2025
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The projected growth in per capita garment spend and population will cause the world garment
market to grow at a CAGR of 5% and attaining a size of about US$ 2.1 trillion by 2025.
Table 1: Global Garment Market Size Projections (In US$ Bn.)
Region 2013 2025 CAGR
EU‐27 355 440 2%
USA 230 285 2%
China 165 540 10%
Japan 110 150 2%
Brazil 60 100 5%
India 46 200 12%
Russia 45 105 8%
Canada 30 50 4%
Australia 25 45 5%
Rest of the world 80 195 8%
Total 1,146 2,110 5%
Source: Wazir Advisors
An interesting observation from the above analysis is that by 2025, it is expected that the cumulative
size of Indian and Chinese markets will be higher than that of USA and Europe.
1.2. Global Trade of Textile and Garments
The global trade of textile and garments was approximately US$ 781 billion in 2013. This is almost
4.6% of the trade of all commodities which is estimated at approx. US$ 17 trillion. From 2008 to 2013,
the global textile and garment trade has grown at a CAGR of 4%.
Figure 4: Global Trade of Textile and Garments (In US$ Bn.)
Data Source: UN Comtrade
643558
642
751 728781
2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
CAGR: 4%
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1.2.1. Major Exporting Nations
The top 5 textile and garment exporting nations are China, India, Italy, Germany and Turkey. China is
the single largest exporter with 39% share while India stood at a distant second place with 5% share.
Figure 5: Major Textile and Garment Exporting Nations (2013)
Data Source: UN Comtrade, Wazir Estimates
1.2.2. Major Importing Nations
The top 5 textile and garment importing nations are USA, China, Germany, Japan and United Kingdom.
USA is the largest importer with a share of 17% of the total global trade.
Figure 6: Major Textile and Garment Importing Nations (2013)
Data Source: UN Comtrade, Wazir Estimates
China, 39%
India, 5%
Italy, 5%
Germany, 4%
Turkey, 4%
USA, 3%
Bangladesh, 3%
Viet Nam, 3%Others, 33%
USA, 17% China, 9%
Germany, 8%
Japan, 7%
United Kingdom, 5%
France, 4%
Italy, 4%
Others, 47%
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1.3. Indian Textile and Garment Industry
The Indian textile and garment industry has an important presence in the country’s economy through
its contribution to industrial output, employment generation, and the export earnings. It contributes
almost 5% to the US$ 1.8 trillion Indian economy whereas its share in Indian exports stands at a
significant 13%. India is the second largest exporter of textile and garment goods with a global trade
share of approximately 5%.
1.3.1. Installed Capacities and Production
India has the second largest textile manufacturing infrastructure in world after China. India is one of
the few countries in world which has production at each level of textile manufacturing viz. fibre
manufacturing, spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garmenting. The snapshot of installed
capacities of textile infrastructure in India is provided below:
Table 2: Installed Capacities in Indian Textile Sector
Description Capacities
Spindles 490 lakh
Rotor 8 lakh
Shuttleless Looms 1.2 lakh
Powerloom 23 lakh
Man Made Fibre 1,800 mn. kg.
Man Made Filament 2,300 mn. kg.
Data Source: Office of Textile Commissioner
Staple Fibre Production
The total staple fibre production in India has increased from 8,115 mn. kg in 2009‐10 to 9,351 mn. kg
in 2013‐14, growing at a CAGR of 4%. Cotton is the major fibre produced in India accounting for
approx. 70% of the total fibre production.
Figure 7: Fibre Production in India (In Million Kg)
Data Source: Cotton Corporation of India; Textile Statistics & Official Indian Textile Statistics 2012‐13, Office of Textile
Commissioner; Ministry of Agriculture; Jute Advisory Board
5,185 5,763 6,001 6,205 6,375
1,6201,800 1,845 1,674 1,620872896 830 848 846
302305 323 337 361
136126 126 122 1498,115
8,890 9,125 9,186 9,351
2009‐10 2010‐11 2011‐12 2012‐13 2013‐14 (P)
Cotton Jute Polyester Viscose Others
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Manmade Filament Yarn Production
Filament yarn production in India has shown de‐growth of 4% per annum from 1,542 mn. kg in 2009‐
10 to 1,320 mn. kg in 2013‐14. Polyester has the majority share of approx. 92% in filament yarn
production while others include viscose, silk, nylon and polypropylene have a combined share of 8%.
Figure 8: Filament Yarn Production in India (In Million Kg)
Data Source: Textile Statistics & Official Indian Textile Statistics 2012‐13, Office of Textile Commissioner; Central Silk Board
Spun Yarn Production
The production of spun yarn in India has grown at a CAGR of 6% from 4,193 mn. kg. in 2009‐10 to 5,316
mn. kg. in the year 2013‐14. Approximately 75% of the total spun yarn produced in India is 100% cotton
yarn.
Figure 9: Spun Yarn Production in India (In Million Kg)
Data Source: Textile Statistics & Official Indian Textile Statistics 2012‐13, Office of Textile Commissioner
Fabric Production
The production of fabric in India is almost stagnant from 2009‐10 to 2013‐14, with a CAGR of 1%. Cotton
fabric and blended fabric has grown at 5% and 7% per annum, while 100% non‐cotton fabric has shown
de‐growth of 7% in the same period.
1,434 1,462 1,380 1,288 1,213
108 107106
107107
1,542 1,5691,486
1,3951,320
2009‐10 2010‐11 2011‐12 2012‐13 2013‐14 (P)
Polyester Others
3,079 3,491 3,127 3,583 3,935
707
796 789
828 898
407
427 457
457 484
4,193 4,713
4,373 4,868
5,316
2009‐10 2010‐11 2011‐12 2012‐13 2013‐14 (P)
Cotton Blended 100% Non‐Cotton
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Figure 10: Fabric Production in India (In Million Sq. Meters)
Data Source: Textile Statistics & Official Indian Textile Statistics 2012‐13, Office of Textile Commissioner
1.3.2. Domestic Market
The Indian domestic consumption of textile and garment is valued at US$ 63 billion in 2013. Within
this, garment retail has the highest share of 73% contributing US$ 46 billion, technical textile
contributes US$ 13 billion with a share of 21% and home textiles contribute US$ 4 billion with a 6%
share.
Figure 11: Indian Domestic Textile and Garment Consumption (2013)
Source: Wazir Advisors
28,914 31,718 30,570 33,870 35,513
7,767 8,278 8,468
9,282 10,063
22,840 21,765 20,567
18,797 17,049 812 798 848 843 843
60,333 62,559 60,453 62,792 63,468
2009‐10 2010‐11 2011‐12 2012‐13 2013‐14(P)
Cotton Blended 100% Non Cotton Khadi, Wool and Silk
Indian Domestic Textile & Garment Market
US$ 63 billion
Garment
US$ 46 billion
Technical Textiles
US$ 13 billion
Home Textiles
US$ 4 billion
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From 2007 to 2013, the domestic market size of India has registered a robust growth of 11% despite
global uncertainties and slack international demand.
Figure 12: Historical Growth of Indian Domestic Market (In US$ Bn.)
Source: Wazir Advisors
1.3.3. Textile and Garment Exports
In 2013, India became second largest exporter of textile & garment in the world surpassing Italy and
Germany. India exported textile and garment goods worth US$ 40 billion, with a share of approx. 5%
of global textile and garment trade. From 1995 to 2013, Indian exports have grown at a rate of 9% per
annum while global trade has grown at a slower growth rate of 5% per annum during the same period.
Figure 13: Global Trade and Indian Exports of Textile & Garment (In US$ Bn.)
Data Source: UN Comtrade
25 27 31 35 40 45 467 8
910
1112 13
23
34
44 4
3438
4349
5561 63
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Garment Technical Textile Home Textile
8 11 17 27 33 40
304363
504
642728
781
1995 2000 2005 2010 2012 2013
Indian Exports Global Trade
CAGR: 11%
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In terms of value, Indian textile and garment exports is dominated by garment category which has a
majority share of 40% followed by yarn, fabrics, fibre, made‐ups and other textiles including carpets,
non‐wovens, etc.
Figure 14: Break‐up of India’s Textile and Garment Exports (2013‐14)
Data Source: Office of Textile Commissioner
India’s leading textile and garment export partner is USA with a share of 18% followed by China. In
last few years, China have started importing significant volumes of fibre and yarn from India.
Bangladesh is also one of the destination where Indian textile exports have grown in last few years.
Table 3: Market‐wise Segmentation of Indian Textile and Garment Exports (2013)
Export Partners Exports (In US$ Bn.) Share
USA 7.2 18%
China 5.5 14%
UAE 2.8 7%
UK 2.4 6%
Bangladesh 2.0 5%
Germany 1.9 5%
France 1.0 3%
Others 17.4 43%
Total 40.2
Data Source: UN Comtrade
Garment, 40%
Yarn, 18%
Fabric, 12%
Fibre, 12%
Made‐ups, 12%
Other Textiles, 6%
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2. Innovation and Textile Industry 2.1. Innovation – The Essence of Business
Innovation is the process which brings together novel ideas and solutions that meet new requirements
or already existing needs. To survive in a dynamic market environment a constant focus on innovation
is fundamental. Innovations can take shape by extensive research and development, from practice
and even by chance. The more radical and revolutionary innovations tend to emerge from R&D, while
more incremental innovations may emerge from practice. An important part of innovation is
commercialization. Michael Porter, the illustrious economist and management guru, said “Innovation
is a new way of doing things that is commercialized”. Without commercialization, it may be an
invention but not an innovation.
Innovations can help improve a:
a) Product: New product to solve consumer’s problems or for their benefit
b) Process: High productivity, lower costs, service value delivery
c) Business Model: Challenging existing industry methods of creating customer value for new
needs, add value, create new markets, new customer groups
Business giants of one time which did not evolve with time have vanished into thin air, like Bethleham
Steel, USA (1857‐2003), AGFA (1972‐1984) and Atari, USA (1867‐2004). On the other hand, innovative
companies are the ones which have changed the course of market direction over the years. Innovation
is sometimes dismissed by naysayers as a fuzzy corporate word beloved by tech firms and ambitious
start‐ups. It hardly any surprise that technology firms dominate BCG’s list of 50 most innovative
companies in 2014. But there are also several automotive firms and consumer brands.
Figure 15: The 50 Most Innovative Companies of 2014
Another list ‐ The World’s Most Innovative Companies published by Forbes, lists 5 Indian companies
in top 100 viz. Hindustan Unilever (Rank 14), TCS (Rank 57), L&T (Rank 58), Sun Pharma (Rank 65) and
Bajaj Auto (Rank 96). The list includes some international garment retailers and brands as well –
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Hermes (Rank 13), Fast Retailing (Rank 46), Luxottica Group (Rank 51), H&M (Rank 74), and Inditex
(Rank 82). Li & Fung (Rank 41) is another textile and garment related firm in the list. Two research and
testing firms‐ Bureau Veritaz (Rank 50) and SGS (Rank 73) with interest in textile and garment sector
also made it into the list. Novozymes (Rank 38), a Denmark based specialty chemical company is the
only textile related chemical company to appear in the list. Beyond these 9 companies, none represent
or relate with textile and garment sector.
2.2. Innovation in Textile Industry – Need and Impact
As explained earlier, the textile and garment manufacturing has undergone a strategic transformation
in last few decades. Till 80s, the production as well as consumption were mainly happening in
developed countries. Then eastern countries started emerging as major manufacturers and roles got
segregated. One of the main reasons behind this shift was high increase in labour cost. In addition,
high utility costs and overheads lead to unviability of manufacturing “basic products” in developed
countries. Asia had the presence of strong raw material base to support production, and lower
manufacturing costs. Hence, it emerged as an alternative manufacturing destination. Today the largest
manufacturers and exporters are in Asia – China, India, Turkey, Bangladesh, Vietnam, S. Korea,
Pakistan, Indonesia, Taiwan, etc. But the production of textile and garment goods is not totally dead
in developed countries.
Table 4: Textile and Garment Exports of Select Developed Countries
Country Export Value (2013) Key Product Categories
Italy US$ 36 billion High‐end suiting fabrics, premium shirting fabrics, fast fashion, value‐added woven garments
Germany US$ 35 billion Technical textiles, fast fashion, value‐added garments
France US$ 16 billion Technical textiles, high fashion dresses and ensembles
Japan US$ 9 billion Performance fibers, yarn and fabrics; high end denim, other technical textile products
Data Source: UN Comtrade
In fact, manufacturing has changed its face in developed countries. While most Asian countries are
manufacturing basic and intermediate products; developed nations are focusing exclusively on high‐
end, high‐technology, value added or INNOVATIVE products.
A company that manufactures a commodity product (e.g. cotton yarn, power loom fabric, t‐shirts,
etc.) has to focus extensively on expense management to maintain decent profitability since the
market has several competitors and an upper ceiling. In contrast, a company that manufactures an
innovative line of products (say technical textiles) is required to spend more on R&D and market
development as the sales can be increased by helping grow the market. With lower competition,
better margins are possible.
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2.3. Some Recent Innovations
i. CRAiLAR®
CRAiLAR Flax is a new, high‐quality natural fiber which equates or
surpasses the comfort of cotton, but exhibits performance
characteristics similar to a synthetic. From the farms where the flax is
grown to the mills where it's spun into yarn, CRAiLAR Flax Fiber
reduces chemical and water usage, is designated as a 100%
BioPreferred® product by the USDA and classed in Group B on the
Made‐By Environmental Benchmark. Because of its stiff structure,
traditional flax fiber could only be woven into linen fabrics. However,
through the use of CRAiLAR's all‐natural, proprietary, enzymatic process, CRAiLAR Flax is able to be
entered into all cotton and polyester spinning, knitting and weaving systems. The fiber is strong, dries
quickly, wicks moisture and is shrink resistant. It adds a soft, natural hand to both polyester and man‐
made cellulosics.
ii. Corkshell™
Corkshell™, developed by Schoeller Textil AG, is the new corkshell™
technology combines the outstanding natural features of cork with
the functional features of high‐performance fabrics. It is made of an
FSC‐certified cork granulate that is a by‐product in the manufacture
of wine corks. This natural granulate is pulverized and firmly
anchored as a coating in a special process patented by Schoeller.
Two options are available:
Two‐layer fabric construction with a cork coating on the
inside of the fabric.
Three‐layer fabric construction with the cork coating in the
middle.
All fabric constructions are water and wind repelling, highly breathable and are available in a 2‐way
and 4‐way stretch. Corkshell™ provides significantly higher thermal insulation than comparable
conventional soft‐shell products and, depending on the fabric structure, can provide up to 50% higher
thermal insulation. Corkshell™ offers this level of thermal insulation, while also providing a high level
of breathability. In addition, Corkshell™ is bluesign® approved and therefore complies with the world's
strictest standard for textiles.
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iii. Edema Stocking
The Edema Stocking, developed by Ohmatex in Denmark, is an
electronic smart textile device that monitors and measures changes in
leg volume for patients suffering from edema (fluid accumulation or
swelling) of the lower limbs. The stocking was developed for patients
with congestive heart failure where edema can be one of the first
symptoms experienced. The stocking allows for daily monitoring, and
as a telecare device has the potential to reduce out‐patient visits and
hospital admissions. The material of the stocking includes a sensor that
instantly measures all changes of leg expansion. The measurements are sent via a mobile device
showing the changes of swelling in the legs. This information is automatically sent to clinicians at the
hospital for observation and medication can be adjusted accordingly. The stocking can also be used to
monitor women suffering from pre‐eclampsia in pregnancy. This is a serious condition, which causes
retention of fluid and can ultimately put the pregnancy at risk. The Edema stocking can be used to
monitor the condition in hospital or at home.
iv. ELUTE™
TissueGen has developed a patented, cutting‐edge room temperature
extrusion process for manufacturing drug‐loaded fiber used in
implantable medical devices, allowing the broadest variety of drugs
and biologically‐based entities possible to be delivered directly to
targeted internal sites in a number of medical applications. TissueGen
currently offers two types of ELUTE™ biodegradable drug‐loaded fibers
well suited for medical devices including woven, knitted, or braided
medical textile applications: (1) Pharmaceutical Fibers, typically loaded with well‐known
pharmaceutical agents; and (2) Growth Factor Fibers, typically loaded with extremely sensitive
therapeutic agents such as growth factors and ideally suited for advanced research applications.
Medical applications include custom drug delivery, cardiology, dermal wound healing, peripheral
nerve regeneration, sutures, vascular stents, grafts, orthopedics and general surgery.
v. Emana
Emana® is Rhodia's new polyamide 6.6‐based intelligent yarn which
incorporates a patented additive offering thermo‐regulation properties
and improving blood micro‐circulation when in contact with the skin for
more than six hours. Scientific studies conducted by an independent
Brazilian laboratory demonstrate that, during exercise, sportswear
manufactured with Emana improves body thermo‐regulation when
compared to other products and reduces the accumulation of lactic acid
that leads to muscular fatigue. The studies also indicate enhanced comfort and promote cellulite
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reduction, due to an increase in skin elasticity. The intelligent properties of this yarn do not deteriorate
after repeated washing. Benefiting from the key characteristics of polyamide, such as soft touch, easy
care, resistance and elasticity, Emana® brings Rhodia's customers in the sportswear, lingerie and
underwear markets extraordinary flexibility in terms of color and design. Emana® has been certified
class I under the OEKO‐TEX Standard 100, showing that no harmful substances are present in the
product.
vi. EQ‐Top Seismic Wallpaper
Developed by the Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), this product
is a composite of strong and stiff glass fibers, interwoven to create
durable, elastic panels. The fibers crisscross in various directions, so
they are both strong and pliable, allowing coverage to distribute
energy evenly when the walls shake during an earthquake. Standard
wallpaper glue is not enough to keep walls standing in the event of
seismic activity. Therefore, KIT began working with Bayer's Material
Science division to enhance the product. The result was a flexible, yet
soft adhesive that contains water and polyurethane beads. The
adhesive forms to the grooves in a wall's masonry, and as the water
evaporates it boosts the wallpaper's strength. The fabric was tested in a model home in an earthquake
simulator, where the seismic wallpaper allowed the building to remain standing with little damage.
The building material is expected to cost more than regular wallpaper, but builders and homeowners
who live in quake‐prone areas may find the product well worth the price in protecting structures, and
saving of lives.
vii. Fire Stomp™
Fire Stomp™ is a new innovative line of FR knit products, developed
and introduced by Texollini, the Long Beach, CA, circular knitter,
known for their innovative fabric development capabilities. Within
the Fire Stomp™ collection, there are a variety of constructions and
fiber blends knitted in Texollini's exclusive Superfino® construction
for first layer apparel. The Fire Stomp™ line of FR fabrics also utilize
Glanzstoff's Viscont® FR filament rayon. Texollini's Fire Stomp™
newest fabrics feature a FR rayon /Lycra knit blend in two jersey
constructions, a mesh and a plain knit version. The Collection also
includes a "Quad blend" made of another proprietary development of
FR modacrylic/wool/nylon,also available in bright union dyed colors
for flight‐deck or safety t‐shirt and mid‐weight t shirt applications.
There are more mid‐weight developments with Texollini's original wool Triblend innovation‐some
with LYCRA. All products are berry‐compliant and suitable for military, industrial, and commercial FR
applications.
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viii. Geckskin™
Developed by scientists at the University of Massachusetts Amherst
and currently by Felsuma LLC, which is now is commercializing
Geckskin™, the new attach‐and‐release material replicates the feet
of the gecko. Using van der Waals forces, the Geckskin fabric
technology, made from fabrics such as nylon, Kevlar, or carbon fiber
peels away easily on any surface, leaves no residue, and can hold up
to 700 lbs. Geckskin combines two components, an elastomer
(rubber‐like materials) and a fabric, which creates both a soft and stiff material. Together these textile
elements replicate the footpad of the gecko, where a tendon on the gecko's toes integrates with its
skin, and is directly connected to a soft and compliant pad. Similarly, Geckskin employs both a
synthetic 'tendon' and 'skin', which are interwoven in much the same way. Geckskin is anticipated to
impact a broad range of applications including apparel, household hanging, and manufacturing
assembly processes.
ix. GeoDetect®
Developed by TenCate, GeoDetect® is a combination of geotextile
performance and fiber optic sensing technology to provide actionable
information related to soil strain and temperature changes of geo‐
structures. Geotechnical professionals are constantly faced with
uncertainty due to a variety of geological hazards to land
development. Karst topography (the dissolution of a layer or layers of
soluble bedrock), abandoned mines, liquefaction‐prone soils, peat,
loess (sedimentary deposits), and soft ground conditions hazards and
the variability of soil and subsurface conditions. TenCate GeoDetect® is the "first intelligent geotextile"
able to provide soil reinforcement, structural health monitoring, design validation and an early
warning system into one package. Our solution is designed specifically for geotechnical applications
and offers a technical solution for monitoring geo‐structures for changes in strain and temperature.
Applications include: Roads/Rails, Walls/Slopes/Embankments, Levees/ Embankment Dams/Canals,
Landfills, and Pipelines.
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x. GlenGuard® Hi‐Vis Anti‐Stat Fabrics
GlenGuard® Hi‐Vis Anti‐Stat Fabrics is a new product introduced into
the Glen Raven Technical Fabrics' GlenGuard Hi‐Vis® line. Jointly
developed with Performance Textiles and William Barnet & Son, LLC,
GlenGuard Hi‐Vis Anti‐Stat is a high visibility, flame resistant fabric for
workers who, not only are required to wear clothing that meets ANSI
107, ASTM 1506 and NFPA 70‐E standards, but also need static
electricity protection to prevent possible ignition of flammable gases
that may be present in the workplace. GlenGuard Hi‐Vis Anti‐Stat is
an engineered fabric that prevents the buildup of static electricity
through the use of carbon fiber technology developed by Barnet for
clean room, hospital and industrial workwear applications. The carbon fiber core is wrapped in a
polyester sheath that protects the carbon fiber from abrasion and damage during laundering without
diminishing the static dissipation properties of the carbon fiber. The fabric is available in woven and
mesh constructions.
xi. Merino State's Bi‐Component Fabrics
Merino State's Bi‐Component Fabrics, manufactured by Australian
textile house Charles Parsons & Co., are innovative Merino wool
knitted fabrics with 'Merino Plus', which takes merino wool to the
next level and makes inroads into marketplaces where Merino wool
has't been used before. Merino State's technical Bi‐Component
Fabrics are made from innovative combinations of Merino with other
fibers including organic cotton, Biophyl®, Tencel®, Modal® and High
Filament Polyester. The company utilizes interesting knit fabric constructions to provide a range of
versatile, multi‐functional products for a variety of end‐use applications such as cycling, women's
athletic and hunting/outdoor. With the world's leading cycling and outdoor brands quickly adapting
these specialty textiles, it won't be long before we see the bi‐component products branch into more
mainstream sports such as Golf and Tennis apparel. An exciting addition for 2013 will be the inclusion
of licensed camo designs, as Merino State works closely with Realtree and Mossy Oak to develop
specialty textiles for the hunting market.
xii. Mushroom® Materials
Developed by Ecovative, Mushroom® Materials are a new class of
home‐compostable bio‐plastics, based on mycelium, a living
organism analogous to the root structure of mushrooms. The
biomaterials are high‐performance and an environmentally
responsible alternative to traditional polystyrene plastic foam
packaging material, insulation, and other synthetic materials.
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Harnessing the power of nature, Mushroom Materials eliminate the pollution generated across the
petroleum‐based plastics supply chain. Mushroom Materials begin as plant‐based farm waste and are
fully compostable. This high‐performance alternative to molded or fabricated EPS (Expanded
Polystyrene or Styrofoam), EPP (Expanded Polypropylene), EPE (Expanded Polyethylene), performs
like foam, but is renewable, natural, home‐compostable, and environmentally responsible. Ecovative's
scientists, engineers and product development team delivers innovative, sustainable solutions that
perform across a variety of industries.
xiii. Polymer Cross Linked Aerogels
Polymer Cross Linked Aerogels: Developed by NASA's Glenn Research
Centre, are mechanically strong, lightweight, robust mesoporous
materials 100 times stronger than native aerogels at only double the
density, derived by applying conformal polymer coatings on skeletal
framework of aerogel. Aerogels are extremely low‐density materials
with excellent thermal and acoustic insulating properties based on
their high porosity and small pore diameter. This makes them
attractive as candidates for many aerospace and industrial
applications from insulation for cryotanks and spacesuits to
consumer appliances and construction. However, the main drawback
that has prevented aerogels from having a broad commercial impact
is their fragility. Nanoscopically, aerogels consist of a pearl necklace‐
like network of nanoparticles, whose weak points are the
interparticle necks. Reinforcing the nanoparticle network, especially
in the neck regions between particles, increases the strength of the
particle framework with only a small weight penalty and slight
decrease in mesoporosity in the structure. NASA's Glenn Research
Center used the hydroxyl functionality on the surface of silica nanoparticles to react a commercial di‐
isocyanate oligomer conformally with the nanostructure. The resulting aerogels increased in density
by only up to factor of 2.5 with a concomitant increase in strength by a factor of 100. Because this
method utilized the native silanols on the surface of the nanoparticles, crosslinking chemistry was
limited to only isocyanates. The NASA Glenn team has greatly expanded upon this by utilizing a co‐
reactant with the particle precursors to alter the nanoparticle surfaces with a variety of functional
groups allowing cross‐linking the nano‐structure with nearly any type of polymer (including epoxy,
polyimide, isocyanate, acrylate, and styrene), expanding the realm of applications beyond the limited
operating range of isocyanate chemistry for insulation and other materials.
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xiv. PurThread™
PurThread Technologies' high‐performance fabrics are embedded
with an EPA‐registered antimicrobial agent developed by Eastman
Kodak. Using a patent‐pending and TechAmerica Award‐winning
manufacturing process, the technology is incorporated into the fiber
before it is spun into yarn and woven into fabric. This ensures the
agent's even distribution throughout the fabric, maintaining its
efficacy for the life of the product. The technology in PurThread
fabrics is not a topical coating or superficial treatment, meaning the
agent's properties won't wash away, weaken or wear out over time.
Additionally, the antimicrobial agent–a form of silver salt–works to
keep fabrics fresh by inhibiting the growth of odor‐causing bacteria,
mold, mildew and fungus on the materials that include it. PurThread's proprietary yarn is integrated
into a range of textile products, harnessing silver's natural antimicrobial properties for stain control,
odor control and product protection. PurThread is also investigating in cutting‐edge research to
explore potential public health benefits of silver‐treated textiles.
xv. QMilk
Qmilk, a biopolymer fiber manufactured by Qmilch GmbH, is a
compostable fiber based on casein milk protein. The Qmilk fiber can
be obtained both as a staple fiber and filament. Like wool and silk, Q‐
Milk is soft, gentle on the skin, antimicrobial, flame‐resistant and
non‐allergenic. The 100% biodegradable Qmilk offers a wide range
of fiber cross‐sections, allowing applications in apparel, sports
textiles, home textiles, technical textiles, and automotive. Since the
fiber easily absorbs moisture, Qmilk is particularly suitable for
applications in underwear, functional sports clothing, home textiles,
and technical textiles. Tests have shown that Qmilk also offers natural UV protection. Its smooth silk‐
like surface makes it ideal for next‐to‐skin wear. Since the bacteria can't multiply in Qmilk fiber,
apparel maintains an odor‐free freshness. Qmilk takes color easily, and can also be colorized during
the production process. Qmilk uses only natural and renewable raw materials, is free of optical
brighteners, and creates zero waste from production through end‐of‐life composting.
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xvi. RamTect™
Hobbs Bonded Fibers' RamTect™ is 100 percent AMERICAN wool, made in
America insulation for outdoor garments. The company is calling it "The
Natural Fiber Solution." RamTect is an extremely soft, lightweight, and
pliable wool insulation fabric using patent pending, no yarn compression
technology. The insulation holds its shape and retains its insulating
properties without having to be quilted or baffled, two processes that
compromise a garment's warmth by punching holes through its liner and
outer fabric. Garments insulated with RamTect will weigh similar to or less
than down garments. The product creates unlimited options for
lightweight technical clothing designers, as well as creating a vibrant
'Made in USA' marketing message for brands AND RETAILERS. Hobbs uses
American‐raised wool in RamTect because:
1) Wool offers natural evaporation and superior thermoregulation.
2) Proven sustainable for the environment, naturally renewable and biodegradable.
3) Wool fiber from America's soil to Hobbs USA. Processing and licensed finished garment
assembly here in the USA establishes the carbon footprint nature asks of us.
xvii. SafeTcrete
SafeTcrete, developed by EY Technologies, is a long flat fiber cut into
shorter lengths that have been re‐engineered with a proprietary
coating process to create blast‐proofing dispersion into a concrete
matrix. The fibers in SafeTcrete system allow for good workability in
the concrete paste and are coated to make them more rigid (stiffer)
through the use of any of the polymeric systems based on ester or
acrylate water based polymeric material systems. The rigidity
achieved facilitates the dispersion of the fibers throughout the plastic
concrete mix (and subsequently in the hardened concrete product) by
preventing the fibers from balling up (agglomerating) in the slurry.
The coating also makes the fibers resist water absorption by acting as
a water resistant barrier that prevents water from the slurry from being absorbed by the fiber during
mixing, but allows dispersion of the coated fiber bundles between the concrete placement and final
set. It's believed the coating materials open up the fiber bundle filaments to permit the fibers to
penetrate the interstices of the cement to form a strong bond between the cement and fiber. In
addition to the fibers being well dispersed through the concrete, silica fume is also evenly dispersed
throughout the matrix by using special, inter‐ground silica fume cement. The nano‐sized silica fume
particles significantly reduce the permeability of the concrete product, making it more resistant to
corrosive agents and protecting steel reinforcement in the concrete.
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xviii. SEFAR® PowerMatrix
SEFAR® PowerMatrix, developed by Sefar AG, is a lightweight hybrid
fabric consisting of polyester (PET) and metal monofiliments in warp
and weft. The technology merges the two worlds of electronics and
textiles, and combines their advantages. The electrically conductive
metal wires in warp and weft are insulated by a thin polymer coating,
which enables the metal wires to form a grid without electrical
contacts between the wires. Any desired wiring structure can be
established within PowerMatrix by selective removal of the varnish
and point‐wise connection of the wires. The connections are
encapsulated with epoxy or silicon resins. Electrical components can be mounted and interconnected
using the same method. Using this technology, SEFAR offers custom‐made LED (light emitting diode)
panels on the fabric.
Other applications of SEFAR PowerMatrix are for sensing purposes. For example, it makes possible the
world's first entirely fabric temperature sensor. No additional components are necessary for
temperature measurement‐‐‐‐the fabric itself is the sensor. The sensor can measure a temperature
range of ‐10 to +100 degree C with an accuracy of + or ‐1.0 degree C. PowerMatrix can provide both
single and multiple sensor elements over larger surfaces through an area‐wide grid of sensors. SEFAR
PowerMatrix is designed for heating purposes, temperature measurement, flow measurement and
elongation measurment for automotive, filter, industrial and security applications.
xix. VELCRO® Brand Peel‐Away™ Pots
VELCRO® Brand Peel‐Away™ Pots, developed by Velcro Industries and
available exclusively from Gardener's Supply Company, gives
gardeners three ways to experience transplant success: 1) The porous
VELCRO® Brand fabric lining air‐prunes roots, creating a dense,
healthy root system while preventing spiraling‐‐‐no more stressed,
"pot bound" seedlings. 2) The self‐watering tray, included in the Peel
Awayâ„¢ kits, keeps soil optimally moist. 3) The peel‐open sides
minimize root disturbance for a smooth transition to a larger container or the garden.
The new product is made from washable, reusable fabric that promotes healthy root growth. At
planting or repotting time, the sides of each pot peel open, leading to an earlier, bigger harvest.
VELCRO® Brand seeding pots performed well in raised bed test gardens. Tomatoes started in Peel
Away™ Pots bore more fruit and had thicker stems than those started in traditional, plastic pots.
Available in two sizes and two colors (red and brown), VELCRO® Brand Peel Away™ Pots are sold as a
kit that includes pots and a self‐watering tray, or in sets of pots only. The 4‐inch pots are ideal for
tomato, pepper and eggplant seedlings, while the 2‐inch pots provide all the benefits of the larger
pots, in a size just right for starting seeds.
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xx. Viscont FR®
Viscont FR®, "Comfort in Protection": is the world's only FR filament
rayon, manufactured by Glanzstoff Industries, Bohemia. Based on high
tenacity technology, Viscont FR® provides the fire resistance, non‐
melt performance, comfort, moisture management, abrasion
resistance and strength never before been available in 100% FR rayon.
The filament also contains outstanding technical characteristics for
applications in military, safety apparel, industrial, narrow fabrics and
home furnishings markets. Filament sizes range from110 dtex up to
2440 dtex. A new patent pending 100% HT FR filament Hybrid yarn was introduced in November 2012
to reduce hot air shrinkage at 500°F. Viscont FR® is Berry compliant and is exclusively distributed in
North America by ICF Mercantile, LLC.
Glanzstoff Industries, with three production sites in the Czech Republic, Italy, and Luxembourg,
combined with its worldwide distribution network, is a leader in the production and processing of
high‐tenacity viscose filament yarns for technical and textile applications. Besides viscose, synthetic
fibers like polyester, nylon and aramid are converted by means of the latest technology. Glanzstoff
Industries is an important system supplier and dependable partner in vertical integration for a variety
of yarn/textile products and finishing possibilities.
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3. Institutional Framework in India Supporting Innovation Government of India, through Ministry of Textiles, has established various research associations and
institutes across India to promote innovation in textile and garment industry in India. In addition there
are various private organizations which work towards innovation in products and processes. Several
of these private sector entities are broad based, as they cater to sectors other than textile and garment
as well. Some premier educational institutes too are engaged in innovation work for the sector e.g.
IITs. The formal framework developed by Government supports innovation in organized as well as
unorganized segment of the industry. It comprises of 3 types of entities, which are discussed ahead.
3.1. Textile Research Associations (TRAs)
Textile Research Associations have been set up to focus on research and development as per the industry needs. There are eight TRAs in the country: ‐
i. Ahmedabad Textile Industry's Research Association (ATIRA),
Ahmedabad
ii. Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA), Mumbai
iii. Indian Jute Industries Research Association (IJIRA), Kolkata
iv. Man‐Made Textiles Research Association (MANTRA), Surat
v. Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA),
Ghaziabad
vi. South India Textile Research Association (SITRA),
Coimbatore
vii. Synthetic and Art Silk Mills Research Association (SASMIRA),
Mumbai
viii. Wool Research Association (WRA), Thane
The TRA’s research and development activities include:
Process optimization for improved processed control, leading to better quality, cost reduction and export promotion.
Development of new products, processes and design of new instruments, equipment and machinery with emphasis on industry/user collaboration/sponsorship as far as possible.
Supportive studies in areas of environmental pollution, management, human relations and policy aspects.
Apart from R&D facilities, all TRAs also provides services of technical consultancy, testing, maintenance audit, energy audit, pollution control, Computer Aided Designing (CAD) centre, powerloom service centres and training programmes.
The TRAs have excellent infrastructure such as modern full‐fledged testing, electronics and calibration laboratories, pilot plants and textile library with good collection of reference materials. The libraries of TRAs are equipped with books and national and international journals in the field of textiles and allied subjects.
SITRA
IJIRA
NITRA
ATIRA
WRA
MANTRA
SASMIRABTRA
Figure 16: TRAs in India
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TRAs take up R&D work on a project basis. For Government support, each research project is submitted to the Office of Textile Commissioner. It follows a two‐tier mechanism to examine the research project ‐ all projects are technically and financially evaluated by the Project Appraisal & Monitoring Committee (PAMC) and then approved by the Project Approval Committee (PAC). After project approval, TRAs commence the research and development work.
The TRAs have successfully brought several innovations in the sector. A brief about each of the TRAs and some of their key innovations are discussed ahead.
i. Ahmedabad Textile Industry's Research Association (ATIRA)
Established on December 13, 1947 and started in 1949, ATIRA was recognized by the Council of Scientific and Industrial Research under the Ministry of Science and Technology, Government of India. It was later linked to the Ministry of Textiles. Today it is counted among the most prestigious R&D institute in textile sector in India. ATIRA has been identified as the Centre of Excellence (CoE) for Composites under Technology Mission on Technical Textiles (TMTT).
The key innovations of ATIRA include:
Development of nano‐fibre based textiles
Pulsed power technology for enhancing oil recovery from cotton seeds
Spinning of fire retardant fibre blends on cotton system
Development of protective textiles for protection against electromagnetic radiations
Development of fabric hairiness indicator
Development of high production roller gin with chute feed arrangement
Anti‐bacterial wrinkle resistant fabrics
Development of ceramic based yarn for thermal insulation products
ii. Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA)
In the last five decades, BTRA has carried out numerous research projects and consultancy assignments. It has over 50 patents to its credits and in several cases the know‐how has been transferred to the industry. BTRA is also recognized as a Centre of Excellence (CoE) for Geotech by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. BTRA established a new Geotech Laboratory with testing facilities to test all types of geosynthetics. Apart from testing & development, BTRA provides training and consultancy services to the industry.
Few key innovations of BTRA include:
Plasma technology for textile processing
Development of method for testing & analyzing the formaldehyde content in textile auxiliaries
Design and development of reeling‐cum‐twisting and spinning machines for non‐mulberry silk
Development of special eco‐friendly friction reducing agent to minimize ring yarn hairiness
Fibre quality enhancement by process control at ginning
Eco‐friendly and user‐friendly machines for hank processing cottage industry
Development of anti‐flammable, anti‐bacterial, electrically conducting fabrics and their use in
textile and electronic industries
Low cost modification of handloom so as to be operated by a disabled person
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iii. Indian Jute Industries Research Association (IJIRA)
IJIRA carries out number of sponsored R&D projects to develop new process technologies and products mostly for the organized Jute Industry as well as for the Jute diversified product units. Some of the major innovations of IJIRA developed in last 75 years are:
Development of eco‐friendly fibre lubricant in Jute Processing
Modified bleaching and dyeing technology for improved light fastness of Jute
Development of enzymatic degumming technology for decorticated ramie fibre
Production of Jute‐Ramie blended fine yarns and fabrics
Value added jute based life‐style home textile products with aroma finishing
Durable Jute geo‐textiles effective for soil erosion control and river bank protection
Sterilized jute pack / anti‐microbial textiles of Jute
Development of moisture meter, autoleveller, sliver grist monitor, electronic jute yarn testing
tester and brightness‐cum‐cover factor meter
iv. Man‐Made Textiles Research Association (MANTRA)
In the last three decades, MANTRA has come up with numerous innovations in the field of man‐made textiles. These innovations are dominated by product development. Following are some key innovations by MANTRA:
CTC free stain remover
Self‐lubricating nylon parts
Development of multilayer fabrics for sportswear from filament yarn
Development of disposable packaging material based on eco‐friendly PLA fibre
Application of nano technology for delustering of bright polyester fabric varieties
Development of filter fabric for bag filter
Development of micro‐organisms detecting fabric disc
Development of eco‐friendly fabric suitable in home furnishing and hometech
v. Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA)
NITRA has done various research projects in textile product development, machine design, instrument development and process development. NITRA also possesses patented technologies based on its R&D work. NITRA has been designated as Centre of Excellence (CoE) for Protective Textiles by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. The basic objective of setting up of Centre of Excellence for Protective Textiles is to promote Protech segment of technical textiles and to provide infrastructural support and facilities at one place for the convenience of its manufacturers.
Some major innovations of NITRA are:
Development of special functional fabric for bedding and sportswear for providing
extraordinary comfort with excellent micro climate
Development of NYCO fabric for paramilitary and military combat uniforms
Development of an apparatus to determine heat and light cutting ability of curtain
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Ultrasonic cleaning of garments and carpets
Development of cut resistant & abrasion resistant protective textile by using composite
metallic yarn
Development of various instruments: flammability tester, smoke visibility test apparatus, fire
resistant test apparatus, limited oxygen index tester, toxicity tester, friction tester, fabric hand
tester, draftometer, etc.
Development of technology to produce seamless low cost jute carry bags using modified
power loom
Development of natural adsorbent for removal of hazardous dyestuff from textile waste water
vi. South India Textile Research Association (SITRA)
SITRA was established in the year 1964. SITRA has not only been involved in textile product and process innovation, but it also embarked upon the innovation in textile machinery and development of quality control equipment. With support from the Ministry of Textiles, SITRA has established Centre of Excellence (CoE) in Medical Textiles in the field of Technical Textiles. The COE has facilities for Research and Development, testing, incubation, training and a well‐endowed information resource centre for the usage of the Industry stakeholders.
The major innovations of SITRA in last five decades include:
Kapas impurities purifier
High speed reels
Miniature ring spinning frame
Two‐for‐one twisting machine
Electronic moisture meter
Breakthrough in production of yarns from Pineapple leaf fibre
Jute cotton yarn
High speed cams for knitting machines, etc.
vii. Synthetic and Art Silk Mills Research Association (SASMIRA)
SASMIRA has been identified as the nodal centre for innovations on technical textiles like geotextiles, automotive textiles, agro‐textiles, medical textiles, composites, architectural and structural textiles etc. The future thrust of SASMIRA is on the R&D activities in the area of upgradation of decentralised sectors, eco‐friendly processes and waste reutilization etc. SASMIRA also acts as the Centre of Excellence (CoE) for Agrotextiles wherein it works for demonstration, promotion, training, testing and evaluation of Agrotextiles in the country.
Some key innovations done by SASMIRA includes
Development of moisture managing fruit and vegetable bag
Development of visible and near infra‐red camouflage textile
Design and development of a non‐destructive test method for assessing the evenness and
mixing quality of non‐woven blends
Development of UV fluorescent yarn for use in agro textiles to detect counterfeits
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Development of accelerated tensile creep apparatus for testing of geotextiles
Development of electrically conductive PET/CNT nano‐composites film
Development of reflective agro textiles for sun management
Design and development of creep testing apparatus for geotextile
viii. Wool Research Association (WRA)
WRA works for the design and development of new products and processes for wool textile industry. WRA is also recognised as Centre of Excellence (CoE) for Sportech and will have facilities such as modern accredited testing laboratory, prototype development plant and machineries, incubation centre, resource centre with it infrastructure, training facility for HRD in technical textiles, formation of standards, specifications, norms, sample bank, seminar, workshops, FGD, etc. In the last five decades, WRA has developed several innovations in the wool sector and few of those innovations are mentioned below:
Enhancement of flame retardancy & soil repellency of wool through plasma technology
Imparting antimicrobial & feel‐fresh/ odour‐less finish to woolen carpets
Development of internet based color matching facility for small and medium dye houses in
the decentralized sector of the country
Softening of coarse Indian wools for better utilization in value added products with pliable feel
and handle
Development of composites from coarse Indian wool for better utilization
Development of itch‐free woolens to be worn next to the skin by improvement of surface
topography of wool fibres with the help of mechanical /chemical processing and plasma
Development of woolen carding machine of 40" width to process coarser Indian wool for
cottage industry
Development of textile effluent treatment system for power generation
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3.2. National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)
A mechanism has been developed by the National Institute of
Fashion Technology (NIFT) to sensitize their students to innovate
at the grass root level. An academic “Cluster Development
Initiative” (CDI) has been started by NIFT to provide innovative
design, technology and capability for inclusive and sustainable
growth of various handloom and handicraft clusters. Under this
program, all students from design and management
departments visit a cluster at least once during their course of
study at NIFT. They undertake a survey or conduct workshops
keeping in view their specialization and requirement of the
cluster. The initiative has phase wise activities to ensure
identification of gaps, skill up‐gradation and technological
development. Students from different streams provide inputs to
the artisans at grass root level. Students of design provide market intelligence to the craftsmen while
technology students undertake process innovation and planning.
Apart from this initiative, NIFT has made innovation an integral part of the study. NIFT as an
organization, responsible for implementing the Cluster Development Initiative, continuously interacts
with various industry stakeholders as well as the artisans and weavers. Also, being an institute
imparting education in fashion technology, NIFT faculty encourages students to take up innovation
projects as their final graduating projects. Faculty also involve alumni to take up sponsored projects
in design, training and product development or diversification.
Bangalore Chennai
Kolkata
Kannur
Bhubaneswar
Hyderabad
Mumbai
Jodhpur
Gandhinagar
Kangra New Delhi Rae Bareli Patna Bhopal
Shillong
Figure 17: NIFT Campuses in India
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Figure 18: Innovation Framework for NIFT
The need for taking up an innovative project is felt in two ways. It is either through the feedback
received from industry stakeholders and artisans or by self‐actualization of need by the students as
well as professors during industry interactions / training projects. After the need of the project is
established a project concept is developed which is submitted to NIFT for evaluation. Initially the
evaluation committee comprising of faculty from different departments, assess whether NIFT can
really add value to the project. If the project is found to be viable, final approval for the project is given
followed by its allocation to a professor / head of the concerned department. Selection of students to
carry out the project, in case project has not been proposed by students, is done by the faculty
concerned. Development, testing and its refinement is done in‐house by the NIFT team after which it
is sent to the evaluation committee for final approval. Once the project has been approved by the
committee, information relating to the successful/ approved projects is disseminated to the industry
in a language which can be understood by artisans and weavers also. If any order is received from the
industry for commercial usage, it is catered by NIFT.
NIFT
Project evaluation and allocation to concerned dept.
Design Dept. / Fashion Tech. / Other Dept.
Testing and evaluation of the project
NIFT Evaluation Committee
Dissemination of project report & commercial adoption
Selection of students for project development
Students & Faculty
Self‐actualization
of need
Artisans
Feedback on
needs of
artisans
Industry Stakeholders
Feedback on issues of industry
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3.3. Handloom and Handicrafts
The handlooms and handicrafts sectors have institutionalized the process of innovations through
establishment of many design and development institutes. These institutions have an objective of
undertaking research and development projects on a continuous basis.
Innovations are developed on the basis of identification of need. The handloom and handicraft offices
act only as the funding and coordinating agencies for these projects while the actual developmental
work is undertaken by the institutions associated with them. Funding for all the projects is provided
under the R&D scheme of the Textile ministry.
Figure 19: Innovation Framework for Handloom and Handicrafts Sector
Artisans
Feedback on needs of
artisans
Industry Stakeholders
Feedback on issues of industry
Handloom & Handicraft Office / Associated Institutes
Identification of major issues
Development of project concept note
Evaluation Committee
Project concept evaluation and approval
Associated institutes
Seminar / Workshop to get feedback on innovation
Product refinement and project approval
Dissemination of project report & commercial adoption
Innovation development & testing
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The institutes associated with handloom and handicraft office have a separate team which interacts
with the various industry stakeholders and artisans during seminars and conferences to gather their
feedback on the issues being faced by them. On the basis of these interactions, major issues are
identified and need for the innovations is developed. The institutions conduct a detailed background
research both primary and secondary, on these identified issues and develop a concept for the
research project. This concept note is submitted to the project evaluation committee in the Ministry
of Textiles for approval.
The project evaluation committee consists of various subject matter experts who then evaluate the
feasibility and need for the project and give their approval. Actual development of the innovation
followed by detailed testing work is done by a team of technical experts from the institutes associated
with the handloom and handicraft office. After the product has successfully passed all the tests, a
seminar or workshop is organized to get feedback of artisans and industry stakeholders for any further
refinement.
Once the validity and success of a project has been established, information relating to the project is
disseminated among all the industry stakeholders. The report is also shared with the artisans and
weavers in a language which can be understood by them. Post dissemination, if any order is received
from the industry for commercial usage, it is catered by the associated institutions.
Apart from this, to motivate the craftsmen and to help them develop innovative designs, Textile
ministry has come out with various awards.
Shilp Guru Awards – These are given to master craftsperson of Handicrafts for their valuable
contribution to the industry. Each award consists of one mounted gold coin, one shawl and a
citation. In addition, financial assistance of Rs. 7.5 lakhs is provided for developing ten innovative
and creative projects of high level of excellence, high aesthetic value and high quality.
Sant Kabir Awards – Similar to Shilp Guru, Sant Kabir awards are given to handloom weavers for
their significant contribution to the industry. It consists of one mounted gold coin, one shawl and
a citation. In addition, financial assistance of Rs. 6 lakhs is provided for developing ten innovative
and creative projects.
National Awards – These are given to master craftsperson and master weavers. It includes a cash
prize of Rs. 1 lakh, a copper plaque and an angavastram.
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4. Innovation Case Studies in Indian Textile and Garment Industry
4.1. NYCO Fabric for Replacement of P/C Fabric
Sector: Protective Wear
Type: Product Innovation
Developed by: Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA)
Currently, paramilitary and military forces use
polyester‐cotton blended fabric in two
compositions, viz. 50:50 and 30:70 for combat
clothing. The disadvantage of polycot camouflage
uniforms is melting of polyester component on skin
making burn injury more severe. In order to
overcome this limitation, NYCO fabric ‐ blend of
nylon 66 and cotton in 50:50 ratio ‐ has been
developed where nylon adds strength and abrasion
resistance, while cotton adds breathability and
moisture absorption. It has been developed to have
better durability and comfort than a polyester‐cotton (P/C) fabric, and to fulfil the requirement of
combat uniform having lighter weight, abrasion resistance, breathability, flexibility, inherent heat
resistance and good moisture management properties.
The NYCO fabric requires nylon 66 fibres procured from INVISTA (Australia) Pty. Ltd. and Sanker‐6
variety cotton. The yarns are then converted into woven fabric using Tsudakoma Zax‐N air jet loom
(speed 550 rpm and width 65 inch), and dyeing and printing are carried out using Vat dyes at M/S Alok
Industries Ltd.
The NYCO and P/C fabric were tested for colour fastness, flammability, durability, air permeability,
etc. In case of NYCO fabric there is no hole formation up to 1,000 cycles while in case of P/C fabric,
hole formation is observed at 750 cycles, resulting in better wear life of NYCO than P/C.
On exposure to high temperatures, the nylon fibres in fabric form gel and char around cotton that
does not melt, so there is less chance of burn injury. In addition, the comfort property of NYCO fabric
is better than P/C fabric as the water vapour and air permeability are higher for NYCO. Also, the flame
resistance property of NYCO fabric is better than P/C fabric.
The NYCO fabric has been adopted by para‐military and military forces, and can be used in other
applications where durability and comfort is required.
Figure 20: NYCO Fabric
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4.2. Hydrophobic Textiles with Plasma Technology
Sector: Functional Textiles
Type: Process Innovation
Developed by: Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA)
The plasma treatment is required to improve the functional
properties of the fabric. In the plasma treatment, energetic
particles and photons generated in the plasma interact with
the substrate surface, resulting in four major effects on the
surface which are surface cleaning, ablation or etching, cross‐
linking of near surface molecules and modification of surface
chemical structure. The plasma polymerization is done on
100% cotton, 100% polyester & blended fabrics, giving them
water repellent and oil repellent properties. The cotton fabrics
are treated for imparting oleophobic properties.
Other applications of plasma treatment are change in
wettability, change in dyeing ability and functional finishing of
textiles, like excellent UV protection, flame retardancy,
antibacterial and easy care finish.
The experiments were carried out with plasma enhanced chemical
vapour deposition (PECVD) to impart hydrophobic properties.
Hydrophobicity was measured in terms of contact angle and spray rating
measurements. The results are tabulated below:
The benefits of the plasma technology are that it is a clean and dry process for textiles finishing. It
saves water, electricity and dyeing time, and has less chemical consumption. The plasma pre‐
activation and finishing results in UV protection, flame retardancy and antibacterial properties. Also
the salt and alkali consumption is low which eliminates the issue of total dissolved solids (TDS).
The process of producing hydrophobic textiles with plasma technology will take time for
commercialization. Many companies have shown their preliminary interest and opening up a pilot
plant to showcase the technology developed.
Type of substrate Contact angle Spray rating
Cotton 140° 85
Polyester 150° 100
P/C blend 145° 90
Nylon 135° 80
Untreated Polyester
Treated Polyester
Figure 21: Spray Rating Tester
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4.3. Compression Bandage Pressure Measurement Tester
Sector: Testing Equipment
Type: Machinery Innovation
Developed by: South India Textile Research Association (SITRA)
The most effective method of treating chronic venous
leg ulcers is by the correct application of pressure on
the compression bandages. The incorrect application
of pressure on the compression bandages results in
failure to heal the ulcer which can lead to the
amputation of the lower leg.
In India, 70% of patients with chronic venous ulcers
are treated by district nurses or general practitioners
who receive little or no training in the technique of
applying pressure on the compression bandages. It
has been known that if compression bandage is
applied correctly then this is a valid method to heal
chronic venous leg ulcers. However, not all leg ulcers
can be cured by compression bandage, as there are
many reasons for the occurrence of leg ulcers, such as failure of veins, or artery, or veins and artery
mixed and others. If patients have leg ulcers from arterial causes, bandaging is counterproductive,
because the pressure the bandaging produces will make patients’ arterial problems worse, even
causing amputation.
Compression bandage pressure measurement tester is developed to measure the pressure levels in
different portions of compression stockings. It can be used to check on lively patient without the need
of any tranquilizer. It is helpful to medical professionals in getting effective training and for applying
constant tension on the bandages.
The instrument has paved the way for measuring the compression of bandages/stocking in India. It
has helped to draft compression standard for the products, and can be used to test the products
against specific compression requirements.
Figure 22: Compression Bandage Pressure Measurement System
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4.4. High Speed Charkha
Sector: Textile machinery (Hand Spinning)
Type: Machinery Innovation
The Charkha is a small device which can be used to
spin fibre, such as cotton, into yarn. Fabric from this
yarn can be used to make all sorts of clothing.
Charkha was manufactured by craft‐experts from the
wood of babul, neem or shisham. It was adorned
with colours, paintings, metallic designs or pieces of
glass to attract the prospective buyers.
The table‐top or floor charkha is one of the oldest
known forms of the spinning wheel. The charkha
works similarly to the great wheel, with a drive wheel
being turned by hand, while the yarn is spun off the
tip of the spindle.
Earlier charkha provides livelihood to a significant
population of handloom workers. With the
introduction of technologically advanced machinery,
the application of charkha has reduced but, it still
supports many small handloom workers.
The conventional charkhas have a very slow speed
which limits the productivity of handloom workers.
Apart from this, the extra effort required to operate it reduces the operational efficiency. To improve
the productivity and efficiency of weavers, intervention was made in the traditional designing of the
Charkha.
In the traditional design, cranks and pedals are fixed directly to the hub. This increased the effort
required to produce the yarn. This design was modified by shifting the pedal in between the two
wheels for decreasing the effort required to operate the Charkha. In addition, gear system was
introduced to increase the speed of the Charkha.
Due to its improved functional performance, these high speed Charkhas have been adopted by many
handloom weavers across different clusters in India.
Figure 23: Traditional Charkha
Figure 24: High Speed Charkha
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4.5. Extraction of Colorants from Microorganisms
Sector: Textile Dyeing
Type: Process Innovation
Developed by: Synthetic and Art Silk Mills Research Association (SASMIRA)
This is a unique method for obtaining colour
from micro‐organism which behave like
natural dyes giving good dyeing properties.
This technique will produce dyestuff for
textile application which can be of consistent
nature and can be very cheaply produced. The
added advantage of these dyes are that being
inherently antibacterial, they also impart
these properties to the fabric on which it is
being applied.
In the process bacterium was isolated to
obtain pure culture and it is grown to obtain
colourants in liquid media called broth
medium. The colour is then extracted using
chemicals like methanol, etc. In this way five
different colour producing organism have
been isolated and identified. The violet, red
and purple colour pigment was extracted
and successfully applied on the textile
substrate. This substrate was also tested for
their antibacterial activity. The other isolated
organisms are under trials to optimize their
colour producing abilities. Dyeing trials for
individual fabrics as well as the multifibre
fabric has been done and the characteristics
of the dyed samples are being studied.
This is a chemical free process of dyeing with no harm to environment and the user. In addition it
provides additional anti‐microbial finish on the substrate and can be produced very cheaply. In future,
this process can find good application in textile dyeing, and the fastness of the colour will help in
determining the commercial success of the idea.
Violeium in L.B agar Crude Microbial Dye
Microbially Dyed Nylon Microbially Dyed Cotton
Figure 25: Process for Obtaining Colours
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4.6. Improvisation of Maheshwari Weaving
Sector: Textile Weaving
Type: Product Innovation
Developed by: National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)
The traditional Maheshwari weaving belongs to Maheshwar, a town
located in the West Nimar district of the Madhya Pradesh, prevalent
between the 3rd and 2nd century B.C.
The motifs woven in the Maheshwari textiles are primarily inspired
from the detailing on the walls and niches of the Maheshwar fort.
Earlier the motifs remain geometrical and the design repertoire
remains traditional. The most common ones include chatai (woven
mat pattern), heera (diamond pattern) and chameli ka phool
(Jasmine flower pattern).
These elegant saris of cotton and silk‐blend use subtle colours and
textures which are often created by using different shades in the
warp and weft. With uncomplicated patterns, elaborate borders and
subtle colours, these weavings are personification of elegant royalty. The saris have exotic motifs done
in zari and pleasant colours which are both inspired by the hues and forms in nature.
NIFT carried out the capacity building and skill development workshops for villagers of Badgaon,
Sayata and neighbouring areas to strengthen weaving skills in order to cater to huge demand of
Maheshwari fabric and products.
With the support of NIFT project team, the villagers formed Self Help Group (SHG) named Kewat SHG.
The SHG was provided work orders from NIFT as well as from local market. The SHG members now
regularly participate in craft melas and exhibitions at district and state level. Design intervention and
direct benefits were clearly demonstrated through bulk order received by artisans of Keria Kheri and
others in Maheshwar by Fabindia.
Samples developed under craft based exploration workshop involving artisans and NIFT students,
received huge appreciation and opened possibilities of unusual combinations in pattern. Motifs were
introduced to bring newness to the existing motif and border designs. Updating of design information
through trend and forecast workshops led to introduction of new colour for contemporary market
acceptance of the Maheshwari products. The artisans were further trained in planning, designing,
graph making and graph interpretation techniques. Selected artisans were trained at NIFT, New Delhi,
in design methodology, pedagogy, skills, weaving processes etc. as mainers, to provide further training
to the remaining artisans and dissemination of design intelligence in the cluster.
Figure 26: Maheshwari Sari
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4.7. Itch Free Woolens
Sector: Woolen Textiles
Type: Product Innovation
Developed by: Wool Research Association (WRA)
The apparel grade wool like Merino is used for warm clothing
throughout the world. Most relevant is the consumers’ need for
woolen garments which are worn next to skin to be soft, sensuous,
luxurious and above all absolutely itch‐free. One of the major
problems of woolen garment lies in the fact that they require an
intermediate garment made of cotton or other fibres next to the skin
to avoid itching when worn. The problem of itching has been tackled
by reducing protruding fibres and surface modification of wool by
combination of mechanical / chemical processing and plasma
technology.
The itch free woolens are developed to be worn next to the skin to
prevent the itching sensation caused by wool. For this the hairiness is
reduced by using singeing and surface scales are made blunt by using
plasma technology in fibre/fabric stage. The resultant fibre/fabric is
softened by using enzyme/softeners treatment. Then polymer
coating/grafting is done to mask the wool fibre surface scales.
This innovation facilitates eco‐friendly processing using plasma and
enzyme technology. The plasma treated yarn showed 10% increase in
yarn strength as well as breaking elongation. Also the thermal
resistance of plasma treated fabric was increased, and plasma
treatment assisted the enzyme treatment.
Trials of the innovations are being done and the patent is in progress.
The innovations is being presented at one international conference
and two national conferences.
Figure 27: SEM Images of Wool Fibres (At 2 K)
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4.8. Woven Packaging Bags of Poly Lactic Acid (PLA)
Sector: Natural Fibre
Type: Product Innovation
Developed by: Man‐Made Textiles Research Association (MANTRA)
Polylactic Acid (PLA) is a natural material based value‐
added polyester fibre, which is as durable as other
natural fibres such as cotton, wool and silk. It is
biodegradable and can be reconverted to PLA. It has
the comfort of natural fibres and feels like “second
skin”. The superior handle, hydrophilicity and
durability make it suitable for applications requiring
a soft feel and the ability to transport moisture and
fluids.
In this innovation, PLA yarn was woven to make PLA
gauze fabric. This fabric was tested for liquid wicking
and liquid capillary action and both these properties
were found to be superior to commercial cotton
gauze. Then, PLA yarn was woven to make food
packaging containers which are biodegradable and recyclable. The PLA food packaging bags have been
laminated with PET film (30 micron) which is not biodegradable. Most of the food packaging material
available today is made from synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polypropylene and polyester.
The packaging material is discarded which results in the accumulation of synthetic plastic waste,
detrimental to the environment.
The PLA bag is developed for packaging of non‐perishable, powdered/granular food products such as
sugar, tea, coffee, etc. The bag is biodegradable, recyclable and does not affect the packaged food.
PLA is obtained from renewable resources, is recyclable and non‐polluting. Even if the packaging
material is not reused, it can be composted and returned to the environment. It is a sustainable
product and can be used to package and store foods. The food packaging containers can be designed
to package food and store it eventually. It is made in the packaging sizes of 1 kg, 2 kg and 5 kg.
Although the initial cost of PLA is higher (than that of synthetic polymers, cotton and jute), its
environmental impact and sustainability make it a suitable material for replacing synthetic food
packaging material. Some technical textile manufacturers have been shown the products and
discussions are underway for improvisation and commercialization. But the only constraint to any
commercialization plan (at present) seems to be the non‐availability of PLA fibre in India.
Figure 28: PLA Packaging Bag
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4.9. Enhanced Oil Recovery from Cotton Seeds by Pulsed Electric Field Technology
Sector: Cotton Seed Oil
Type: Machinery Innovation
Developed by: Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association (ATIRA)
Pulsed Electric Fields (PEF) is a non‐thermal
processing technology, developed in Germany,
which has received increased interest during the
last years. An external electric field can induce
critical electrical potential across the cell
membrane. This leads to electrical breakdown and
local structural changes of cell membranes, which
increase the permeability. Various studies have
been published for the dis‐integration of cell
membranes in plant tissue by the application of
PEF. This technology has increased the yield of oil
extraction from cotton seeds.
The innovation is developed to modify the process/technology (already available) to suit extraction of
cottonseed oil under Indian condition, and in order to achieve this the technical/operational
parameters have been optimized. The innovation has enhanced the oil recovery from 12‐14%.
The innovation has led to the enhanced recovery of oil resulting in greater efficiency. In Gujarat, the
enhanced recovery of cotton seed oil due to this technology is 61,200 MT, and revenue increased by
Rs. 270 Crores. Also there will be significant impact on reduction in the prices of cotton due to
increased availability of cotton seed oil. The possible reduction in cotton prices in Gujarat is by Rs.
2,000/bale.
Figure 29: Pulsed Power Unit
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4.10. Jute / Bamboo Composites for Application in Rural Areas
Sector: Textile Composites
Type: Product Innovation
Developed by: Indian Jute Industries Research Association (IJIRA)
In the developing countries, diversifications of
natural fibres from their traditional markets to other
potential sectors (building, transport, furniture,
packaging etc.) has gained interest to meet the
pressing demands of conventional materials,
especially wood substitute. One of the applications of
natural fibres is in the area of polymer composites
where there is a wide scope for exploitations to
various types of structural and non‐structural useful
commodities. The benefit of producing the natural
fibre based components originates from their low
cost, light weight, and eco‐friendly nature.
For the purpose of this innovation, jute and bamboo
have been taken since they are abundantly available
and may find non‐conventional new outlets in the
form of composites. The incorporation of these two
different fibres into a single matrix (binder) has led to
the development of jute/bamboo hybrid composites
in the form of board for utilization of rural sector.
Jute in the form of non‐woven and bamboo in the form of mat have been chosen as reinforcing fibre
component and hydrophilic water soluble phenol formaldehyde resin has been chosen as matrix
binder. Jute has been taken as reinforcement more than 50% in combination with bamboo mat either
single or double layers in one face or both the faces. Resin was varied from 15‐35% through dilution
with water to be used as binder matrix. Preliminary indication from laboratory trials is that inclusion
of bamboo substrate with jute substrate increases the mechanical properties of the product.
The jute/bamboo hybrid composite has the potential to replace mainly the products made from wood
or ply‐wood. It has benefits of being light weight, eco‐friendly and water resistant due to the
application of phenol formaldehyde resin.
The innovation has applications in various areas including modular housing, panels, interior, floor tiles,
etc. In addition, it has high potential in domestic and export market as building material, furniture,
flooring, etc.
Figure 30: Jute/Bamboo Composite Board
Figure 31: Jute/Bamboo Composite Sandwich Panel
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5. Promoting Innovation and Way Ahead Innovation in any segment is driven by market and non‐market forces. The market forces of
consumers, buyers, suppliers and competitors are the more visible driver of innovations. Changing
needs, wants and affordability cause pressure on the industry to innovate and fulfil the new demand
pattern. Similarly, economic, political, social, and cultural reasons, what we call collectively as the non‐
market forces also help evolve the industry. Their impact is sometimes subtle and sometimes knee
jerk for the industry.
However, there is another factor leading to innovation ‐ the inner motivation. The inner motivation to
innovate is what causes entities to ride the path of innovation in a continuous manner, without waiting
for market or non‐market forces to cause them to innovate. No wonder, such companies have always
emerged as the sector leaders – Apple, Samsung, Amazon, P&G, Google, GE, 3M, to name a few.
Within textiles, companies dealing with fibres, chemicals, unconventional textiles (nonwovens,
technical textiles, etc.) and textile machinery are the ones today which focus on product related
innovation to stay ahead of competition. A mere glance at website of such companies reflect their
focus on innovation. Here are some examples:
Ahlstorm, Finland: Turning our unique know how and new ideas into innovative high
performance fibre‐based materials. Recognized by our partners as the driver in sustainability.
Always looking for the next great idea.
Clariant, Switzerland: Our Promise: We create added value by appreciating the needs of our
customers – with competitive and innovative solutions.
Du Pont, USA: Our Approach: Inclusive Innovation. DuPont is working inclusively with others
to find innovative, science‐enabled solutions to some of the world’s biggest challenges.
Freudenberg, Germany: Constant innovation in everything we do is essential for our long term
financial success. We are leaders in continuous improvement, and our culture encourages and
rewards creativity and initiative from all our employees.
Glen Raven Materials, USA: Enhancing Life for Global Consumers with the World's Most
Innovative Fabric‐Based, Market‐Driven Solutions.
Hunstman, USA: Enriching lives through innovation.
ITEMA group, Italy: …with an ample product portfolio and a commitment to continuous
innovation and technological advancement of its weaving machines.
Staubli, Switzerland: Leading innovation in Textile machinery, Connectors and Robotics
Teijin, Japan: As reflected in our brand statement, "Human Chemistry, Human Solutions," and
with a basis in technological innovations, we are conducting R&D to realize sustainable
business growth and creating new businesses globally with the aims of enriching people´s lives
and contributing to social development.
In conventional textiles also, several international companies spend up to 2‐3% of their revenue
(sometimes even more) on R&D and related areas. In contrast, the R&D spend of Indian companies is
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quite low. Alok Industries and Aditya Birla Nuvo, the largest listed textile companies (in revenue terms)
reported R&D expense of approx. 0.1% of their turnover in last fiscal. R&D expenses of Vardhman
Textiles, the next largest, were a tad better at 0.2% of the turnover. Among the top 10 manufactures,
only SRF Ltd. and Arvind Ltd. reported R&D expense of some significance – 1.1% and 0.8% of their
turnover, respectively. SRF is a pure play technical textile player whereas in recent years, Arvind has
started making inroads in technical textile domain.
Promoting innovation in textile and garment sector is beyond question. Growth in value added
segment for any company, or even country, has been a result of focus on innovation and R&D. For
India to attain higher industry growth and achieve a standing of pre‐eminence in global arena, the
path will not be any different.
To kick start innovation in textile and garment sector, the industry needs to follow a four‐pronged
strategy:
a. Commit Funds
Companies which deploy funds for innovation are the ones which reap benefits later on, as
we have seen from the representative list of biggest and best international companies above.
However, funds are usually the initial point of innovation process only. Funding is never the
prime important factor for innovation. Kaizen, for example, is a small, gradual improvement,
without significant money commitment. Steve Jobs, perhaps the greatest innovator of recent
times, once said “When Apple came up with the Mac, IBM was spending at least 100 times
more on R&D. It's not about money. It's about the people you have, how you're led, and how
much you get it.”
b. Put Innovation as one of the Organization’s vision
A key ingredient is the inner drive of the organization to innovate and lead by example. The
same is true for individuals (or even a country) as well. The greatest of innovations are not
always the outcome of an organizational effort; individuals sometime outpace the industry
and commercialize their inventions which nobody had ever thought of. Inculcating the
innovation thought process in the organization is perhaps the single most important thing that
industry can do as a first step towards innovation.
c. Explore new avenues
Market growth and profitability in traditional products is limited. For textile and garment, this
could be truer. Manufacturing of basic textile and garment products has traveled across the
world exploiting lower wages and free market access. It was Latin America at one time
followed by Eastern Europe, Far East Asia, China, South East Asia, and South Asia. Africa could
be the next destination, sooner than later. Chasing perpetual profitability in manufacturing of
such price sensitive products is a mirage which companies need to give up at certain point in
their growth phase.
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A good example can be seen in Teijin Group which is a US$ 8 billion group today. It started as
Teikoku Rayon in 1918 as a manufacturer of rayon filament. Continuous growth in related and
unrelated businesses has lead Teijin to become a global player comprising of 151 companies,
56 in Japan and 95 overseas. Within the textiles also, the group focus is on advanced fibres
and composites.
Focusing on areas hereto unexplored is important for them to realize a “niche” for themselves.
This niche can be a product, a process, a technology, a market or a strategy. Blue Ocean
strategy is the way ahead for Indian textile and garment players where they need to create
uncontested market space, make the competition irrelevant, create and capture new demand
and break the value‐cost trade off.
d. Groom the innovators
Most importantly, companies need to recruit, support and retain the innovators. Without the
suitably experienced expert team the chances for innovation by chance are thin. As they say,
Chance favours the trained mind. Companies willing to attain leading position, need a strong,
committed research team which has access to world class facilities to innovate. Another
approach for industry is to take part in syndicated research projects along with various
professional research agencies in India as well as overseas.
In a nut shell, industry needs to aim, invest and reap the benefits of innovation. In a few years’ time,
innovation will not remain a choice for Indian textile and garment sector players. The sooner the
players change gears, the better will be the results for the company, the sector and the nation.
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About FICCI Established in 1927, FICCI is the largest and oldest apex business organization in India. Its history is
closely interwoven with India's struggle for independence and its subsequent emergence as one of
the most rapidly growing economies globally. FICCI plays a leading role in policy debates that are at
the forefront of social, economic and political change. Through its 400 professionals, FICCI is active in
52 sectors of the economy. FICCI's stand on policy issues is sought out by think tanks, governments
and academia. Its publications are widely read for their in‐depth research and policy prescriptions.
FICCI has joint business councils and MOUs with over 100 countries around the world.
A non‐government, not‐for‐profit organization, FICCI is the voice of India's business and industry. FICCI
has direct membership from the private as well as public sectors, including SMEs and MNCs, and an
indirect membership of over 180,000 companies from regional chambers of commerce.
FICCI works closely with the government on policy issues, enhancing efficiency, competitiveness and
expanding business opportunities for industry through a range of specialized services and global
linkages. It also provides a platform for sector specific consensus building and networking.
Partnerships with countries across the world carry forward our initiatives in inclusive development,
which encompass health, education, livelihood, governance, skill development, etc. FICCI serves as
the first port of call for Indian industry and the international business community.
Maharashtra State Council of FICCI primarily looks into the Economic, Policy & Regulatory issues
related to Maharashtra state. FICCI‐MSC office remains constantly engaged on several policy issues
with Government of Maharashtra. FICCI‐MSC office also engages with its members based in
Maharashtra by organizing various conferences, research papers and business meetings. FICCI‐WRC
focuses on sectors, Technical Textiles, Nutraceutical and Wellness. FICCI‐MSC also extends support for
all the activities driven out of FICCI head office in New Delhi.
Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI)
Maharashtra State Council (MSC)
33‐B, Krishnamai,
Sir Pochkhanwala Road, Worli,
Mumbai – 400030 (India)
Tel: +91‐22‐24968000
Fax: +91‐22‐24966631 / 32
Website: www.ficci.com
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About Wazir Advisors
Wazir Advisors is a management consulting firm that supports clients globally on strategy, investment,
alliance and implementation assignments in sectors of Textiles, Garment, Technical Textiles, Retail,
and other consumer focused sectors. Wazir also works with Government and Development Bodies for
scheme and policy formulation as well as implementation.
Having worked with leading Indian and International private companies, public sector organization,
Government departments, development bodies and trade bodies over the years Wazir has developed
an in‐depth understanding of global sector dynamics and connects with the decision makers. This body
of knowledge and contacts are leveraged in delivering value to clients in each assignment. Wazir also
has tied‐up with select international consulting partner firms in key global regions for delivering
international projects. With a team of experienced professionals, Wazir offers a comprehensive range
of services to its clients in fibre to fashion value chain.
Wazir’s Service Offerings:
a) Strategy advisory services • Corporate strategy • Market entry strategy • Manufacturing strategy • Product diversification strategy • Marketing and distribution strategy
b) Implementation assistance • Garment factory re‐engineering • Supply chain optimization • Process re‐engineering • Productivity improvement • Benchmarking against best practices • Cluster and parks development • Workforce training
c) Services for Govt. and development bodies
• Sector growth strategy • Scheme / Policy recommendations &
formulation • Scheme / Policy evaluation
• Investment Promotion – FDI & Domestic • Project management and monitoring
d) Market research • Surveys • Trade research • Market intelligence • Customer feedback & relationship
management e) Support for investments
• Cross border investments • Company due‐diligence • Location analysis • Debt restructuring • Partner search ‐ M&A, JV, other forms
of business partnerships • Feasibility studies and DPR preparation • Techno‐Economic Viability (TEV) Studies
f) Thought leadership • Sector white paper • Knowledge partner in conferences
Wazir Advisors Pvt. Ltd. 3rd Floor, Building 115, Sector 44, Gurgaon ‐ 122 002
National Capital Region | India T: +91 124 4590300; F: +91 124 4590333
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