Post on 13-Apr-2015
A TRYST WITH TEMPLES
It is often called “the city of a thousand temples” and the first impression of this cultural
destination comes from its towering temples casting a shadow over endless armies of old-
fashioned motor rickshaws, which are still the main mode of transport here, as well as the
colorful, chaotic bustle of its streets.
Kanchipuram, formerly Conjeevaram, or Kanchi, in India’s southern state of Tamil Nadu is one
of the country’s ancient cities which survived the vicissitudes of changing fortunes over the
millennia. The sights, sounds and smells make a first-time visitor feel this is a place where
centuries co-exist.
Nagereshu Kanchi is a reference to the city in the ancient Sanskrit language, meaning Kanchi
stood out among cities. Its history can be traced to several centuries before the Christian era.
The city finds mentions in 2nd century BC scholar Patanjali’s works (his Yoga Sutra guides yoga
experts to this day) and also in Sangam literature, the earliest-known Tamil literature which dates
back to more than 2,500 years. Kanchi flourished as a center of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain
learning. The media of instruction were Sanskrit, Pali, Tamil, and later, Telugu as well.
An Indian commentator, Subramaniyam Venkatraman, says, “The founder of Zen Buddhism,
Bodhidharma, is believed to have been born here and supposed to have gone to China to spread
Buddhism and also the martial art of varmakkalai. Xuanzang, the great Chinese traveler, visited
the city in the 7th century, and in his memoirs, admired its culture and civilization.
Venkataraman notes that Kanchi attained its peak of glory and power as the capital city during
the reign of the Pallava dynasty, whose kings ruled from the 3rd-9th centuries. The rulers,
“besides being an imperial and a maritime power, were also great lovers of arts and architecture”
and several beautiful temples in and around Kanchi were built under their patronage.
The Pallava empire extended from the River Krishna in the north to the River Kaveri in the south
and had links with China, Thailand, Fiji and other distant places through the port city of
Mamallapuram.
Many great figures were born or lived in this city, including Dandi, author of the Sanskrit classic
Dashakumaracharita, written in the 6th or 7th century about the adventures of 10 princes.
Another celebrated Sanskrit poet, Bharavi, who wrote the epic poem Kiratarjuniya, (narrating the
encounter of a hero and a god disguised as a hunter), also hailed from Kanchi.
The city hosted famous Buddhist scholars such as Dignaga (one of the founders of Indian logic),
Buddhaghosa, a 5th century scholar, and Dhammapala, a commentator.
“Kanchipuram is one of the great centers of scholarship historically,” says Satya Sivaraman, a
filmmaker and journalist. “Much of Buddhist thought traveled from here to other parts of Asia. It
was also a center of the Jain religion for a long time. Since the 10th century, it has been an
important center of Hindu religion with one of the four Shankaracharyas (heads of a Hindu
tradition) having his ashram (monastery) in Kanchipuram.”
For a city with such ancient cultural and intellectual past, Kanchi is strikingly unpretentious. Its
temples and sites are scattered, connected by streets and alleys dotted with inexpensive eateries
and sari shops, including some of the best in the country.
It is also called “the Silk City” because of its famous hand-woven silk fabrics. Legend has it that
many weavers used pure gold thread for that distinctive sheen in the cloth.
Kanchipuram’s most famous export is the silk sari, made using handlooms. Some 5,000 families
are said to be engaged in weaving. Locally-produced saris are expensive and those who buy them
for important occasions, such as weddings, tend to hand them down to succeeding generations.
The city’s silk fabrics are noted for their pleasing designs and color combinations, but above all,
for their sturdiness and durability. Some Indian costume designers are known to travel to the city
to scout for its products.
These days, intermediaries have been cutting into the marketing of silk saris. Criticism can often
be heard that local producers are losing their grip on the market. Though there are some sales
outlets for the saris in Kanchipuram itself, the bulk of the produce is transported to cities such as
Chennai, Bengaluru, Mumbai, New Delhi, Kolkata and overseas.
The food is also delicous. The vegetarian restaurant Saravana Bhavan gained such a reputation
that besides other parts of India, it was encouraged to open outlets in Kuala Lumpur and the US.
Despite the acclaim, the original eatery in Kanchi remains determinedly modest though people
from all over India, including the rich and famous, come here for mouth-watering rava dosa
(pancakes) and vada (deep-fried lentil cakes).
But back to Kanchi’s history. The Pallavas were followed by the Chola kings, who ruled from
the 10th-13th centuries. Then it was part of the Vijayanagar empire from the 14th-17th centuries.
Finally, it came under British colonial rule.
Today, it is the headquarters of a district also called Kanchipuram. It has a bustling bus stand, a
railway station and a government hospital, besides several schools and colleges. Notable among
them is the Meenakshi Medical College and Research Institute.
It is also a trading center for vegetables, cereals, pulses, textiles, edible oil, flowers, handicraft
items, metal ware, and jewelry. A number of movie theatres dot the landscape. The proximity to
Chennai has visible influence on the city.
While most people in Kanchipuram speak Tamil, the official language of the state, considerable
numbers use Telugu and to a lesser extent, Urdu.
With such an impressive culture portfolio – poetry, religion and craftsmanship – the city would
have been expected to be imposing, self-assured and arrogant.
Instead, there is an air of subdued casualness about everything. One has to scratch the surface to
encounter the city’s importance.
However, it would be a mistake to visit South India and miss out on Kanchipuram. Despite its
modesty, it remains one of the greatest ancient cities of India.
Songs of the soil
Most of the villages around Kanchipuram do not appear on the Google maps or on most of the
road maps published in India. They may be just two hours’ drive from Kanchipuram, but
psychologically, they are far away, living in their own realm and rhythm.
Women in colorful saris work in verdant rice fields, some in the shadow of the imposing
Vandavasi Hill with its ancient temples. Work is hard and long but they sing and when they see
visitors, shout to one another and crack a joke or two.
The colors and the jolly scene make for a photographer’s feast.
Most villages in this area are impoverished and people have the additional burden of the deep-
rooted caste hierarchy to contend with. But the harder life is, the harder people work and play.
Villages around Kanchi enthusiastically celebrate numerous festivals. Statues of mythological
heroes abound. Many dwellings are built near the statue of the transsexual Aravan – a character
in the epic Mahabharata. The stone statue is headless – the head is re-attached only during the
festival, and removed again on the 10th day of the event.
Statues of Mohandas Gandhi, the father of the nation, abound in the towns and villages.
This part of India is renowned for its itinerant theatre groups, which are accompanied by
traditional musicians
One of the most famous performing groups is the Thanthoni Amman Terukoothu Troupe of
Akkur village. All actors, even those playing female characters, are male.
The message of the plays can be cultural or social, shaped by current events.
The music mainly comes from a reed instrument (muka veenai), percussion (mridangam),
harmonium (potti) and cymbals (thalam).
The musicians may look earthy but they produce marvelous and highly sophisticated music.
Performances take place at night, sometimes going on until early hours of the morning. The
entire village gathers – adults, elderly and children alike. No matter how brilliant, the
performance is often a pretext for gathering and exchanging gossip..
On the night the theatre comes to the village, everyone seems to be equal, at least for the duration
of the performance. They come together to witness the show and hear the sounds of cymbals and
reeds and momentarily forget their worries amid the illumination and unexpected brightness.
Kanchipuram
This article is about the municipality in Tamil Nadu, India. For its namesake district, see
Kanchipuram district.
Kanchipuram
கா�ஞ்சி�புரம்
— Temple city —
Clockwise from top: Kailasanathar temple,
Ekambareswarar Temple, Kamakshi Amman
Temple, a silk weaver in the city and Varadarajar
Perumal Temple
Kanchipuram
Coordinates: 12°49′N 79°43′E / 12.82°N
79.71°ECoordinates: 12°49′N 79°43′E / 12.82°N
79.71°E
Country India
State Tamil Nadu
District Kanchipuram
Population (2001)
• Total 153,140
Languages
• Official Tamil
Time zone IST (UTC+5:30)
PIN 631501-631503
Telephone code 044
Vehicle registration TN 21
Website kanchi.tn.nic.in
Kanchipuram a (கா�ஞ்சி�புரம்) otherwise known as Kanchi (previously romanized as Kāñci-
pura, Conjevaram)[1] is a city in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu, 72 km (45 mi) from Chennai –
the capital of Tamil Nadu. The city covers an area of 11.605 km2 (4.481 sq mi) and had a
population of 153,140 in 2001.[2] It is the administrative headquarters of Kanchipuram District.
Kanchipuram is well-connected by road and rail. Chennai International Airport is the nearest
domestic and international airport to the city.
Located on the banks of the Vegavathy River, Kanchipuram has been ruled by the Pallavas, the
Medieval Cholas, the Later Cholas, the Later Pandyas, the Vijayanagar Empire, the Carnatic
kingdom, and the British. The city's historical monuments include the Kailasanathar Temple and
the Vaikunta Perumal Temple. Historically, Kanchipuram was a centre of education [3] and was
known as the ghatikasthanam, or "place of learning".[4] The city was also a religious centre of
advanced education for Jainism and Buddhism between the 1st and 5th centuries.[5]
In Hindu theology, Kanchipuram is one of the seven Indian cities in which to reach final
attainment, and has the Varadharaja Perumal Temple, Ekambareswarar Temple, Kamakshi
Amman Temple, and Kumara Kottam – major Hindu temples. The city is a holy pilgrimage site
for both Saivites and Vaishnavites. Of the 108 holy temples of the Hindu god Vishnu, 14 are
located in Kanchipuram. The city is well known for its hand woven silk sarees and most of the
city's workforce is involved in the weaving industry.[6]
Kanchipuram is administered by a Special grade municipality constituted in 1947. It is the
headquarters of the Kanchi matha, a Hindu monastic institution believed to have been founded
by the Hindu saint and commentator Adi Sankaracharya, and was the capital city of the Pallava
Kingdom between the 4th to 9th centuries.
Etymology
According to legend, the name Kanchi is derived from Ka referring to the Hindu god Brahma
and anchi, referring to his worship of Hindu god Vishnu at this place.[7] The earliest inscription
from the Maurya period (325–185 BCE) denote the city as Kanchipuram, where King Visnugopa
was defeated by Samudragupta Maurya (320–298 BCE).[8]Patanjali(150 BCE or 2nd c. BCE)
refers to the city in his Mahabhasya as Kanchipuraka.[8] The city was referred to by various
Tamil names like Kanchi, Kanchipedu and Sanskrit names like Kanchipuram.[9][8] The Pallava
inscriptions from (250–355) and the inscriptions of the Chalukya dynasty refers the city as
Kanchipura.[8]Jaina Kanchi refers to the area around Tiruparutti Kundram.[8] During the British
rule, the city was known as Conjeevaram and later as Kanchipuram. The municipal
administration was renamed Kancheepuram, while the district retains the name Kanchipuram.[citation needed]
History
See also: Kanchipuram in the pre-Pallava period
Sculptures inside Kanchipuram Kailasanathar Temple – the oldest existing temple in the city
Kanchipuram Timeline
200 —
–
400 —
–
600 —
–
800 —
–
1000 —
–
1200 —
–
1400 —
–
1600 —
–
1800 —
–
2000 —
Pallavas
Cholas
Vijayanagara Empire
Arcot Rulers
British
Independent India
An approximate time-scale of Kanchipuram rulers.
While it is widely accepted that Kanchipuram had served as an Early Chola capital,[10][11] the
claim has been contested by Indian historian P. T. Srinivasa Iyengar who wrote that the Tamil
culture of the Sangam period did not spread through the Kanchipuram district, and cites the
Sanskritic origins of its name in support of his claim.[12] The earliest references to Kanchipuram
are found in the books of the Sanskrit grammarian Patanjali, who lived between the 3rd and 2nd
centuries BCE.[12] The city is believed to have been part of the mythical Dravida Kingdom of the
Mahabharatha,[12] and was described as "the best among cities" (Sanskrit: Nagareshu Kanchi) by
the 4th century Sanskrit poet, Kalidasa.[13]
Kanchipuram grew in importance when the Pallavas of southern Andhra Pradesh, wary of
constant invasions from the north, moved their capital south to the city in the 6th century. [14][15]
The Pallavas fortified the city with ramparts, wide moats, well-laid-out roads, and artistic
temples. During the reign of the Pallava King Mahendravarman I, the Chalukya King Pulakesin
II (610–642) invaded the Pallava kingdom as far as the Kaveri River. The Pallavas successfully
defended Kanchipuram and foiled repeated attempts to capture the city.[16] A second invasion
ended disastrously for Pulakesin II, who was forced to retreat to his capital Vatapi which was
besieged and Pulakesin II was killed by Narasimhavarman I (630–668), son of Mahendravarman
I (600–630), at the Battle of Vatapi.[17][16] Under the Pallavas, Kanchipuram flourished as a centre
of Hindu and Buddhist learning. King Narasimhavarman II built the city's important Hindu
temples, the Kanchi Kailasanathar Temple, the Varadharaja Perumal Temple and the
Iravatanesvara Temple.[18]Xuanzang, a Chinese traveller who visited Kanchipuram in 640,
recorded that the city was 6 miles (9.7 km) in circumference and that its people were renowned
for their bravery, piety, love of justice, and veneration for learning.[15][19]
The Medieval Chola king Aditya I conquered the Pallava kingdom, including Kanchipuram, after
defeating the Pallava ruler Aparajitavarman (880–897) in about 890.[20] Under the Cholas, the
city was the headquarters of the northern viceroyalty.[21] The province was renamed "Jayamkonda
Cholamandalam" during the reign of King Raja Raja Chola I (985–1014),[22][23] who constructed
the Karchapeswarar Temple and renovated the Kamakshi Amman Temple.[23] His son, Rajendra
Chola I (1012–44) constructed the Yathothkari Perumal Temple.[24] According to the
Siddhantasaravali of Trilocana Sivacharya, Rajendra Chola I brought a band of Saivas with him
on his return from the Chola expedition to North India and settled them in Kanchipuram.[25] In
about 1218, the Pandya king Maravarman Sundara Pandyan (1216–1238) invaded the Chola
country, making deep inroads into the kingdom which was saved by the intervention of the
Hoysala king Vira Narasimha II (1220–1235), who fought on the side of the Chola king
Kulothunga Chola III.[26][27] Inscriptions indicate the presence of a powerful Hoysala garrison in
Kanchipuram, which remained in the city until about 1230.[28]Shortly afterwards, Kanchipuram
was conquered by the Telugu Cholas, from whom Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan I took the city in
1258.[29] The city remained with the Pandyas until 1311 when the Sambuvarayars declared
independence, taking advantage of the anarchy caused by Malik Kafur's invasion.[22][30] After
short spells of occupation by Ravivarman Kulasekhara of Venad in 1313–1314 and the Kakatiya
ruler Prataparudra, Kanchipuram was conquered by the Vijayanagar general Kumara Kampana,
who defeated the Sambuvarayars in 1361.[31]
The Battle of Pollilur, fought near Kanchipuram in 1780
The Vijayanagar Empire ruled Kanchipuram from 1361 to 1645.[31] The earliest inscriptions
attesting to Vijayanagar rule are those of Kumara Kampanna from 1364 and 1367, which were
found in the precincts of the Kailasanathar Temple and Varadaraja Perumal Temple respectively.[31] His inscriptions record the re-institution of Hindu rituals in the Kailasanathar Temple that had
been abandoned during the Muslim invasions.[31] Inscriptions of the Vijayanagar kings Harihara
II, Deva Raya II, Krishna Deva Raya, Achyuta Deva Raya, Sriranga I, and Venkata II are found
within the city.[31] Harihara II endowed grants in favour of the Varadaraja Perumal Temple. [31]In
the 15th century, Kanchipuram was invaded by the Velama Nayaks in 1437, the Gajapati
kingdom in 1463–1465 and 1474–75 and the Bahmani Sultanate in about 1480.[31] A 1467
inscription of Virupaksha Raya II mentions a cantonment in the vicinity of Kanchipuram.[31] In
1486, Saluva Narasimha Deva Raya, the governor of the Kanchipuram region, overthrew the
Sangama Dynasty of Vijayanagar and founded the Saluva Dynasty.[31] Like most of his
predecessors, Narasimha donated generously to the Varadaraja Perumal Temple.[31] Kanchipuram
was visited twice by the Vijayanagar king Krishna Deva Raya, considered to be the greatest of
the Vijayanagar rulers, and 16 inscriptions of his time are found in the Varadaraja Perumal
Temple.[31] The inscriptions in four languages – Tamil, Telugu, Kannada, and Sanskrit – record
the genealogy of the Tuluva kings and their contributions, along with those of their nobles,
towards the upkeep of the shrine.[31] His successor, Achyuta Deva Raya, reportedly had himself
weighed against pearls in Kanchipuram and distributed the pearls amongst the poor. [31]
Throughout the second half of the 16th and first half of the 17th centuries, the Aravidu Dynasty
tried to maintain a semblance of authority in the southern parts after losing their northern
territories in the Battle of Talikota.[31]Venkata II (1586–1614) tried to revive the Vijayanagar
Empire, but the kingdom relapsed into confusion after his death and rapidly fell apart after the
Vijayanagar king Sriranga III's defeat by the Golconda and Bijapur sultanates in 1646.[31]
After the fall of the Vijayanagar Empire, Kanchipuram endured over two decades of political
turmoil.[31] The Golconda Sultanate gained control of the city in 1672, but lost it to Bijapur three
years later.[31] In 1676, Shivaji arrived in Kanchipuram at the invitation of the Golconda
Sultanate in order to drive out the Bijapur forces.[31] His campaign was successful and
Kanchipuram was held by the Golconda Sultanate until its conquest by the Mughal Empire led
by Aurangazeb in October 1687.[31]In the course of their southern campaign, the Mughals
defeated the Marathas under Sambhaji, the elder son of Shivaji, in a battle near Kanchipuram in
1688[31] which caused considerable damage to the city but cemented Mughal rule. [31]Soon after,
the priests at the Varadaraja Perumal, Ekambareshwarar and Kamakshi Amman temples, mindful
of Aurangazeb's reputation for iconoclasm, transported the idols to southern Tamil Nadu and did
not restore them until after Aurangazeb's death in 1707.[31] Under the Mughals, Kanchipuram was
part of the viceroyalty of the Carnatic which, in the early 1700s, began to function
independently, retaining only a nominal acknowledgement of Mughal rule.[31] The Marathas
invaded Kanchipuram during the Carnatic period in 1724 and 1740, and the Nizam of Hyderabad
in 1742.
Kanchipuram was a battlefront for the British East India Company in the Carnatic Wars against
the French East India Company and in the Anglo-Mysore Wars with the Sultanate of Mysore.[32]The popular 1780 Battle of Pollilur of the Second Anglo-Mysore War, known for the use of
rockets by Hyder Ali of Mysore, was fought in the village of Pullalur near Kanchipuram.[citation
needed] In 1763, the British East India Company assumed indirect control from the Nawab of the
Carnatic over the erstwhile Chingleput District, comprising the present-day Kanchipuram and
Tiruvallur districts, in order to defray the expenses of the Carnatic wars. [31] The Company
brought the territory under their direct control during the Second Anglo-Mysore War, and the
Collectorate of Chingleput was created in 1794.[31] The district was split into two in 1997 and
Kanchipuram made the capital of the newly created Kanchipuram district.[31]
Geography
Kanchipuram is located at 12°59′N 79°43′E / 12.98°N 79.71°E, 72 km (45 mi) south-west of
Chennai on the banks of the Vegavathi River, a tributary of the Palar River. [33] The city covers an
area of 11.6 km2 (4.5 sq mi) and has an elevation of 83.2 m (273 ft) above sea level.[33]The land
around Kanchipuram is flat and slopes towards the south[33] and east.[34] The soil in the region is
mostly clay,[34] with some loam, clay, and sand, which are suitable for use in construction. [33] The
Chingleput District Manual (1879) describes the region's soils as "highly inferior" and "highly
stony or mixed with lime, gravel, soda and laterite".[35] It has been postulated that the granite
required for the Varadaraja Perumal Temple might have been obtained from the Sivaram Hills
located 10 miles east of Kanchipuram.[34] The area is classified as a Seismic Zone II region,[36]
and earthquakes of up to magnitude 6 on the Richter Scale may be expected.[37]
Ground water is the major source of water supplies used for irrigation – the block of
Kanchipuram has 24 canals, 2809 tanks, 1878 tube wells and 3206 ordinary wells. [38] The area is
rich in medicinal plants, and historic inscriptions mention the medicinal value.[39] Dimeria
acutipes and cyondon barberi are plants found only in Kanchipuram and Chennai.[40]
Climate
Kanchipuram generally experiences hot and humid climatic conditions throughout the year. [41]
Temperatures reache an average maximum of 37.5 °C (99.5 °F) between April and July, and an
average minimum of 20.5 °C (68.9 °F) between December and February.[41] The daytime heat
during summer can be oppressive; temperatures can reach 43 °C (109 °F).[41] Relative humidities
of between 58% and 84% prevail throughout the year.[41] The humidity reaches its peak during
the morning and is lowest in the evening. Relative humidity is higher between November and
January and is lowest throughout June.[41]
The city receives an average of 1064 mm of rainfall annually, 68% of which falls during the
northeast monsoon.[33] Most of the precipitation occurs in the form of cyclonic storms caused by
depressions in the Bay of Bengal during the northeast monsoon.[41] The prevailing wind direction
is south-westerly in the morning and south-easterly in the evening.[42]
Government and politics
Kanchipuram Loksabha constituency
Municipality Officials
Chairman T. Mythili.[43]
Commissioner N. Vimala[44]
Vice
ChairmanR.T. Sekar[45]
Elected Members
Member of
Legislative
Assembly
V.
Somasundaram[46]
Member of
ParliamentP. Viswanathan[47]
The Kanchipuram municipality was officially constituted in 1866,[15] covering 7.68 km2
(2.97 sq mi), and its affairs were administered by a municipal committee. It was upgraded to a
grade I municipality in 1947, selection grade municipality in 1983 and special grade municipality
in 2008.[48][49] As of 2011 the municipality occupies 11.6 km2 (4.5 sq mi), has 51 wards and is the
biggest municipality in Kanchipuram district.[49] The functions of the municipality are devolved
into six departments: General, Engineering, Revenue, Public Health, Town Planning and the
Computer Wing,[50] all of which are under the control of a Municipal Commissioner, who is the
supreme executive head.[50] The legislative powers are vested in a body of 51 members, each
representing one ward. The legislative body is headed by an elected Chairperson who is assisted
by a Deputy Chairperson.[51]
Kanchipuram comes under the Kanchipuram state assembly constituency. From the state
delimitation after 1967, seven of the ten elections held between 1971 and 2011 were won by the
Anna Dravida Muneetra Kazhagam (ADMK).[52]Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam (DMK) won the
seat during the 1971 and 1989 elections and its ally Pattali Makkal Katchi won the seat during
the 2006 elections.[52] The current member of the legislative assembly is V. Somasundaram from
the ADMK party.[52][46]
Kanchipuram Lok Sabha constituency is a newly formed constituency of the Parliament of India
after the 2008 delimitation.[53] The constituency originally existed for the 1951 election, and was
formed in 2008 after merging the assembly segments of Chengalpattu, Thiruporur,
Madurantakam (SC), Uthiramerur and Kanchipuram, which were part of the now defunct
Chengalpattu constituency, and Alandur, which was part of the Chennai South constituency. This
constituency is reserved for Scheduled Castes (SC) candidates. P. Viswanathan from the
Congress party is the current Member of Parliament for the constituency.[52]Indian writer,
politician and founder of the DMK, C. N. Annadurai, was born and raised in Kanchipuram.[54] He
was the first member of a Dravidian party to hold that post and was the first non-Congress leader
to form a majority government in post-colonial India.[55][56]
Policing in the city is provided by the Kanchipuram sub-division of the Tamil Nadu Police
headed by a Deputy Superintendent of Police.[57] The force's special units include prohibition
enforcement, district crime, social justice and human rights, district crime records and special
branch that operate at the district level police division, which is headed by a Superintendent of
Police.[57]
Demographics
A house depicting old living style of Kanchipuram
Historical population
Year Pop. ±%
1871 37,275 —
1881 37,312 +0.1%
1891 42,547 +14.0%
1901 46,164 +8.5%
1911 53,864 +16.7%
1921 61,376 +13.9%
1931 65,258 +6.3%
1941 74,685 +14.4%
1951 84,810 +13.6%
1961 92,714 +9.3%
1971 110,657 +19.4%
1981 131,013 +18.4%
1991 144,955 +10.6%
2001 153,140 +5.6%
2011 164,265 +7.3%
Sources:
1871: [58]
1901 – 1991:[59]
2001:[2]
2011:[60]
During the rule of King Narasimha Varma in the 7th century, the city covered about 10 square
kilometres (3.9 sq mi) and had a population of 10,000.[61] The population increased to 13,000 in
subsequent years and the city developed cross patterned links with rectangular streets.[62] The
settlements in the city were mostly caste based.[62] During the period of Nandivarma Pallavan II,
houses were built on raised platforms and burnt bricks.[62] The concepts of the verandah in the
front yard, garden in the backyard, ventilation facilities and drainage of rainwater were all
introduced for the first time.[62] The centre of the city was occupied by Brahmins, while the
Tiruvekka temple and houses of agricultural labourers were situated outside the city. [63] There
were provisions in the city's outskirts for training the cavalry and infantry.[63]
During the Chola era, Kanchipuram was not the capital, but the kings had a palace in the city and
lot of development was extended eastwards.[62] During the Vijayanagara period, the population
rose to 25,000.[62] There were no notable additions to the city's infrastructure during British rule.[62] The British census of 1901 recorded that Kanchipuram had a population of 46,164, consisting
of 44,684 Hindus, 1,313 Muslims, 49 Christians and 118 Jains.[15]
As of 2011, provisional figures b showed that Kanchipuram had a population of 164,265; 81,987
were male and 82,275 were female, and that the city covered 36.14 km2 (13.95 sq mi).[60][64] The
2001 Indian census showed that Kanchipuram had a population of 153,140 at a density of 13,428
persons per km2.[60] Males constitute 50.37% of the population and females 49.63%.[2]
Kanchipuram had an average literacy rate of 74.8% in 2001, which was higher than the national
average of 59.5%. Male literacy was 81%, and female literacy was 69%.[60] 10% of the city
population is under 6 years of age. About 8 lakh (800,000) pilgrims visit the city every year as of
2001.[65]
Kanchipuram has 416 hectares (1,030 acres) of residential properties, mostly around the temples.
The commercial area covers 62 hectares (150 acres), constituting 6.58% of the city. Industrial
developments occupy around 65 hectares (160 acres), where most of the handloom spinning, silk
weaving, dyeing and rice production units are located. 89.06 hectares (220.1 acres) are used for
transport and communications infrastructure, including bus stands, roads, streets and railways
lines.[66]
Economy
Silk Sari Weaving at Kanchipuram
The major occupations of Kanchipuram are silk sari weaving and agriculture.[15] As of 2008, an
estimated 5,000 families were involved in sari production.[67] The main industries are cotton
production, light machinery and electrical goods manufacturing, and food processing. [68] There
are 25 silk and cotton yarn industries, 60 dyeing units, 50 rice mills and 42 other industries in the
Kanchipuram.[69] Another important occupation is tourism and service related segments like
hotels, restaurants and local transportation.[69]
Agriculture in Kanchipuram
Kanchipuram is a traditional centre of silk weaving and handloom industries for producing
Kanchipuram Saris. The industry is worth 100 cr (US$18.18 million), but the weaving
community suffers from poor marketing techniques and duplicate market players.[67] In 2005,
"Kanchipuram Silk Sarees" received the Geographical Indication tag, the first product in India to
carry this label.[70][71] The silk trade in Kanchipuram began when King Raja Raja Chola I (985–
1014) invited weavers to migrate to Kanchi.[67] The craft increased with the mass migration from
Andhra Pradesh in the 15th century during the Vijayanagara rule.[67] The city was razed during
the French siege of 1757, but weaving re-emerged in the late 18th century.[67]
All major nationalized banks such as State Bank of India, Indian Bank, Canara Bank, Punjab
National Bank, Dena Bank and private banks like ICICI Bank have branches in Kanchipuram.[72]
All these banks have their Automated teller machines located in various parts of the city.[72]
Human rights
Kanchipuram has a rate than the national average of child labour and bonded labour. [73][74] The
local administration is accused of aiding child labour by opening night schools in Kanchipuram
from 1999.[73] There is an estimated 40,000 to 50,000 child workers in Kanchipuram compared to
85,000 in the same industry in Varanasi.[74] Children are commonly traded for sums of between
10,000 and 15,000 (200 – 300$) and there are cases where whole families are held in bondage. [74]
Child labour is prohibited in India by the Children (Pledging of Labour) Act and Child Labour
(Prohibition and Regulation) Act, but these laws are not strictly enforced.[75]
Transport, communication and utility services
An intercity state bus to Kanchipuram
Kanchipuram is most easily accessible by road. The Chennai – Bangalore National Highway,
NH 4 passes the outskirts of the city.[76] Daily bus services are provided by the Tamil Nadu State
Transport Corporation to and from Chennai, Bangalore, Villupuram, Tirupathi, Thiruthani,
Tiruvannamalai, Vellore, Salem, Coimbatore and Pondicherry.[77] There are two major bus routes
to Chennai, one connecting via Guindy and the other via Tambaram.[77] Local bus services are
provided by The Villupuram division of Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation.[78] As of 2006,
there were a total of 403 buses for 191 routes operated out of the city.[79]
The city is also connected the railway network. The Chengalpet – Arakkonam railway line
passes through Kanchipuram and travellers can access services to those destinations..[80] Daily
trains are provided to Pondicherry and Tirupathi, and there is a weekly express train to Madurai
and a bi-weekly express train to Nagercoil.[81] Two passenger trains from both sides of
Chengalpattu and Arakkonam pass via Kanchipuram.[77][81]
The nearest domestic as well as international airport is Chennai International Airport, located at a
distance of 72 km from the city.
Telephone and broadband internet services are provided by Bharat Sanchar Nigam Limited
(BSNL), India's state-owned telecom and internet services provider.[82] Electricity supply is
regulated and distributed by the Tamil Nadu Electricity Board (TNEB).[83] Water supply is
provided by the Kanchipuram municipality; supplies are drawn from subterranean springs of
Vegavati river.[15] The head works is located at Orikkai, Thiruparkadal and St. Vegavathy, and
distributed through overhead tanks with a total capacity of 9.8 litres (2.2 imperial gallons).[84]
About 55 tonnes of solid waste are collected from the city daily at five collection points covering
the whole of the city.[85] The sewage system in the city was implemented in 1975; Kanchipuram
was identified as one of the hyper endemic cities in 1970. Underground drainage covers 82% of
roads in the city, and is divided into east and west zones for internal administration.[86]
Education
See also: List of schools and colleges in Kancheepuram
Kanchipuram is traditionally a centre of religious education for the Hindu, [3][4] Jainism[5] and
Buddhism faiths.[5]. The Buddhist monasteries acted as nucleus of the Buddhist educational
system. With the gradual resurrection of Hinduism during the reign of Mahendra Varman I, the
Hindu educational system gained prominence with Sanskrit emerging as the official language.[5]
As of 2011 Kanchipuram has 49 registered schools, 16 of which are run by the city municipality.[87] The district administration opened night schools for educating children employed in the silk
weaving industry – as of December 2001, these schools together were educating 127 people and
260 registered students from September 1999.[73]Larsen and Tubro inaugurated the first rail
construction training centre in India at Kanchipuram on May 24, 2012, that can train 300
technicians and 180 middle level managers and engineers each year.[88] Sri Chandrasekharendra
Saraswathi Viswa Mahavidyalaya and Chettinad Academy of Research and Education (CARE)
are the two Deemed universities present in Kanchipuram.[89]
Kanchipuram is home to one of the four Indian Institute of Information of Technology, a public
private partnered institute, offering under graduate and post graduate programs in information
technology.[90] The city has two medical colleges – Arignar Anna Memorial Cancer Institute and
Hospital, established in 1969 is operated by the Department of Health, Government of Tamil
Nadu [91] and the privately owned Meenakshi Medical College.[92] The city has 6 engineering
colleges[93], 3 polytechnic institutes and 6 arts and science colleges.[94]
Religion
Buddhism
Bodhidharma is believed to have spread Zen school of Buddhism from India to China
Buddhism is believed to have flourished in Kanchipuram between the 1st and 5th centuries. [95]
Some notable Buddhists associated with Kanchipuram are Āryadeva (2–3rd centuries) – a
successor of Nāgārjuna of Nalanda University, Dignaga and the Pali commentators Buddhaghosa
and Dhammapala.[96] According to a popular tradition, Bodhidharma, a 5th – 6th century
Buddhist monk and founder of Shaolin Kung Fu was the third son of a Pallava king from
Kanchipuram.[97] However, other traditions ascribe his origins to other places in Asia.[98]
Jainism
It is thought that Jainism was introduced into Kanchipuram by Kunda Kundacharya (1st
century).[96] Jainism spread to the city after the defeat of Buddhists by Akalanka (3rd century)
after prolonged debates. Kalbhras, the rulers of Kanchipuram before the Pallavas, followed
Jainism which gained popularity from royal patronage.[96] The Pallava kings, Simhavishnu,
Mahendra Varman and Simhavarman (550–560) followed Jainism, until the advent of
Nayanmars and Azhwars during the 6th and 7th centuries.[96]Mahendravarman I converted from
Jainism to Hinduism under the influence of the Naynamar, Appar, was the turning point in the
religious geography.[96] The two sects of Hinduism, Saivism and Vaishnavism were revived
under the influence of Adi Sankara and Ramanuja respectively.[63][99] Later Cholas and
Vijayanagara kings tolerated Jainism, and the religion was still practiced in in Kanchi.[96]
Trilokyanatha/Chandraprabha temple is a twin Jain temple that has inscriptions from Pallava
king, Narasimhavarman II and the Chola kings Rajendra Chola I, Kulothunga Chola I and
Vikrama Chola, and the Kanarese inscriptions of Krishnadevaraya. The temple is maintained by
Tamil Nadu archaeological department.[100]
Hinduism
Main article: List of temples in Kanchipuram
Ekambareswarar temple – the largest temple in the city
Hindus regard Kanchipuram to be one of the seven holiest cities in India. According to
Hinduism, a kṣetra is a sacred ground, a field of active power, and a place where final
attainment, or moksha, can be obtained. The Garuda Purana says that seven cities, including
Kanchipuram are providers of moksha.[63] The city is considered a pilgrimage site for both
Saivites and Vaishnavites.[63]
Ekambareswarar Temple in northern Kanchipuram, dedicated to Shiva, is the largest temple in
the city.[101] Its gateway tower, or gopuram, is 59 metres (194 ft) tall, making it one the tallest
temple towers in India.[102] The temple is one of five called Pancha Bhoota Stalams, which
represent the manifestation of the five prime elements of nature; land, water, air, sky, and fire. [103]
Ekambareswarar temple temple represents earth.[103]
Kailasanathar Temple, dedicated to Shiva and built by the Pallavas, is the oldest Hindu temple in
existence and is declared an archaeological monument by the Archaeological Survey of India. It
has a series of cells with sculptures inside.[104] In the Kamakshi Amman Temple, goddess Parvati
is depicted in the form of a yantra, Chakra or peetam (basement). In this temple, the yantra is
placed in front of the deity.[105] Adi Sankara is closely associated with this temple and is believed
to have established the Kanchi matha after this temple.[106]
Muktheeswarar Temple, built by Nandivarman Pallava II (720–796)[107] and Iravatanesvara
Temple built by Narasimhavarman Pallava II (720–728) are the other Shiva temples from the
Pallava period. Kachi Metrali – Karchapeswarar Temple,[104] Onakanthan Tali,[107] Kachi
Anekatangapadam,[107] Kuranganilmuttam,[108] and Karaithirunathar Temple in Tirukalimedu are
the Shiva temples in the city reverred in Tevaram, the Tamil Saiva canonical work of the 7th-8th
century.
Sculpted pillars and stone chain in Varadarajar temple
Kumarakottam Temple, dedicated to Muruga, is located between the Ekambareswarar temple
and Kamakshi Amman temple, leading to the cult of Somaskanda (Skanda, the child between
Shiva and Parvati). Kandapuranam, the Tamil religious work on Muruga, translated from
Sanskrit Skandapurana, was composed in 1625 by Kachiappa Shivacharya in the temple.[109]
Varadharaja Perumal Temple, dedicated to Vishnu and covering 23 acres (93,000 m2), is the
largest Vishnu temple in Kanchipuram. It was built by the Cholas in 1053 and was expanded
during the reigns of Kulottunga Chola I (1079–1120) and Vikrama Chola (1118–1135). It is one
of the divyadesams, the 108 holy abodes of Vishnu. The temple features carved lizards, one
platted with gold and another with silver, over the sanctum.[110]Clive of India is said to have
presented an emerald necklace to the temple. It is called the Clive Makarakandi and is still used
to decorate the deity on ceremonial occasions.[31]
Tiru Parameswara Vinnagaram is the birthplace of the azhwar saint, Poigai Alvar.[111] The central
shrine has a three-tier shrine, one over the other, with Vishnu depicted in each of them. [111] The
corridor around the sanctum has a series of sculptures depicting the Pallava rule and conquest.[111]
It is the oldest Vishnu temple in the city and was built by the Pallava king Paramesvaravarman II
(728–731).[111]
Ashtabujakaram, Tiruvekkaa, Tiruththanka, Tiruvelukkai, Ulagalantha Perumal Temple, Tiru
pavla vannam, Pandava Thoothar Perumal Temple are among the divyadesam, the 108 famous
temples of Vishnu in the city.[112] There are a five other divyadesams, three inside the Ulagalantha
Perumal temple, one each in Kamakshi Amman Temple and Ekambareswarar Temple.[113]
The Kanchi Matha is a Hindu monastic institution, whose official history states that it was
founded by Adi Sankara of Kaladi, tracing its history back to the fifth century BCE.[114][115][116] A
related claim is that Adi Sankara came to Kanchipuram, and that he established the Kanchi mutt
named "Dakshina Moolamnaya Sarvagnya Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam" in a position of
supremacy, namely Sarvagnya Peetha, over the other mathas (religious institutions) of the
subcontinent, before his death there.[116][117] Other historical accounts state that the mutt was
established probably in the 18th century in Kumbakonam, as a branch of the Sringeri Matha, and
that it declared itself independent.[115]
Another Mutt which was famous in ancient times was the Upanishad Bramham Mutt, located
near Kailasanathar temple, Kanchipuram. It has the Mahasamadhi of Upanishad Bramham, a
saint who wrote commentaries on all the major upanishads in Hinduism. It is said tha the great
Sage, Sadasiva Brahmendra took to sanyasa at this mutt.
Other religions
The city has two mosques; one near the Ekambareswarar temple was built during the rule of
Nawab of Arcot in the 17th century, and another near the Vaikunta Perumal temple shares a
common tank with the Hindu temple. Muslims take part in the festivals of the Varadarajaswamy
temple.[118] Christ Church is the oldest Christian church in the city. It was built by a British man
named Mclean in 1921. The church is built in Scottish style brick structure with arches and
pillars.[118]
A restoration feat
T.S. SUBRAMANIAN
The Archaeological Survey of India restores to their original grandeur the vimanas of three
Pallava temples in Kancheepuram.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA
The Kailasanatha temple in Kancheepuram with the restored vimana and the row of
devakulikas, at left.
IN a massive conservation effort, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has restored to their
original grandeur the vimanas (structures built over the sanctum sanctorum) of three Pallava-
period temples in Kancheepuram, about 80 km from Chennai. Two of these — the Kailasanatha
temple and the Iravatanesvara temple — were built by Narasimhavarman II, who ruled between
A.D. 700 and 728. He also built the famed Shore Temple at Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)
near Chennai. The third, the Vaikunta Perumal temple, was built by Nandivarman II (circa A.D.
736-769) and is of great historical and archaeological interest.
All the three temples are built of sandstone. The Kailasanatha temple is the biggest sandstone
temple in the world, according to K.T. Narasimhan, Superintending Archaeologist, ASI (Chennai
Circle), who led the conservation team which began work in 1999. Its other unique feature is the
58 ``devakulikas'' (mini-shrines) that run round the main temple. They had frescoes that
portrayed scenes from the Sivalila and sculptures of Uma Mahesvara, Parvati, Ganapati and
Kartikeya, among others. The inscriptions in Pallava grantha on the temple walls include the
various titles of Narasimhavarman II, such as Rajasimhan, Ajiranakanta, Srithara, Ranathira and
Kshatriya Simhesvara.
K. GAJENDRAN
At the Iravatanesvara temple. The wall of the mantapam, with the lamp niches filled with
brickbats allegedly during earlier conservation efforts.
Narasimhan said the sculptors fully understood the fragile nature of sandstone, and they placed
huge sandstone blocks one on top of the other and then chiselled them into shape. ``The walls of
the vimana and the attached shrines are a veritable treasure house of Saivite iconographic forms,''
said K.R. Srinivasan, former Deputy Director-General of the ASI, in an article ``Early
Tondainadu Style, c. A.D. 650-800, Pallavas of Kanci, Phase I'', published in the Encyclopaedia
of Indian Temple Architecture, South India, Lower Dravidadesa, 200 B.C.-A.D. 1324. The book,
edited by Michael W. Meister, was published in 1999 by the American Institute of Indian
Studies.
States Srinivasan: ``This is the richest of all Pallava shrines in terms of figural decoration.
Sculptures occur not only in the main niches... but also on their flanks. They not only are inside
the attached cardinal and corner shrines, but also are on each shrine's outer walls... Its vimana,
though somewhat squat compared with the Shore Temple, and overly carved with figural
ornamentation, is still very impressive.'' Conservation work relating to the vimana of the
Kailasanatha temple involved lifting three shala stones, each weighing several tonnes, which had
fallen to the ground a few centuries earlier, and positioning them in their sockets, said
Narasimhan.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA
The wall after restoration.
The ASI team discovered a sculpture of Vishnu with four hands (chaturbhuja) in the standing
position and flanked by rishis (sages) and rishipatnis (spouses of rishis), when it demolished a
brick platform built during British rule between two talas (storeys) of the vimana. The fact that
Rajasimhan was a staunch Saivite made this an interesting discovery.
The platform has been built between the antharatala (that is, vestibule) and the first tala to
prevent the collapse of another architectural member called karnakostha. ``Our research showed
that the platform was accretionary and unwanted. So it was removed carefully. To our surprise,
we exposed many architectural features of the first tala and the beautiful standing Vishnu,'' said
Narasimhan. Conservation work on the main vimana, right from the first tala to the stupi (crown)
stage, was complete, he added.
The inner walls of the sanctum sanctorum were given a coat of lime paste and the Somaskanda
panel on the rear wall was restored to its original beauty. In fact, the Somaskanda panel,
depicting Siva and Parvati with Karthikeya sitting on Parvati's lap, is the main iconographic
feature of the temples built by Rajasimhan. A small passage around the sanctum sanctorum,
which leads to the sorga vasal (door to heaven), was found to be damaged and was restored by
strengthening its walls and ceiling.
The team uncovered rows of partially hidden sculptures of resting lions, the trademark of
Rajasimhan's reign, when 14 buttress walls supporting the long black wall of the 58 devakulikas
were pulled down. The buttress walls were erected because it was feared that the devakulikas
would collapse. A scientific study showed that the apprehension was incorrect, said Narasimhan.
The foundation of the devakulikas was strengthened and the buttress walls were removed ``in
one stroke'', exposing the rows of lions.
At the Vaikunta Perumal temple, conservation work on the uniquely three-storeyed vimana
posed a challenge, according to P. Chandrasekaran, Conservation Assistant, ASI, Kancheepuram
sub-circle. Several panels of exquisite sculptures, depicting Vishnu flying on a Garuda, the
Narasimha avatar and so on, were restored to their original splendour. The restoration work,
which began in the mid-1990s, has been so meticulous that even the ornamentation on the stucco
figures on the vimana stand out in bold relief.
The Vaikunta Perumal temple is the biggest sandstone temple built in the post-Rajasimha period.
It was built by Paramesvaravarman alias Nandivarman II (circa 736-796 A.D.) and is dedicated
to Vishnu. Here, Nandivaraman II achieved the ambition of his forefather Narasimhavarman I by
building a chaturasra tri-tala (that is, square, three-storeyed) functional vimana to enshrine
Vishnu in three forms _ standing, (sthanaka), sitting (asana) and reclining (sayana). The three
storeys were formed by a system of three concentric walls forming three concentric squares.
Tamil Vaishnavite saint-poets, the Alwars, have praised the temple as Paramesvara Vinnagaram.
According to ASI officials, the most significant feature of the temple is the depiction of the
historical events that led to Nandivarman II ascending the throne. The events are sculpted in the
square panels on the wall of the inner cloister of the temple mantapa. The aswamedha yagna
performed by some Pallava kings has been beautifully sculpted — a rarity in South Indian art.
There is a sculpture of a visiting Chinese pilgrim too. Divisions of the army — footmen,
elephants and horses — are found in the panels.
At the Iravatanesvara temple, while deplastering the inner and outer walls of the temple
mantapam the ASI team stumbled on lamp niches, which had been filled with brickbats allegedly
during earlier conservation efforts. The niches were found to be in beautiful patterns.
K. PICHUMANI
K.T. Narasimhan, Superintending Archaeologist, ASI, Chennai circle.
This temple, which is much smaller than the Kailasanatha temple, has been conserved in all
aspects — the dead plaster on the vimana has been removed, it has been `water-tightened' and
the stucco figures on it have been strengthened. The work began last year and was completed in
about a year's time. The sculpted image of Dakshinamurthy on the vimana and that of Uma
Mahesvara on a rishabha (bull) were also restored.
The conservation and restoration work at the temples was done using a paste of lime and fine
river sand. The sand was mixed with lime and ground to a fine paste along with gallnut, jaggery,
`vilvam' fruit, neem gum and kathazhai (aloe).
The Kailasanatha Temple today wears a new look and it has been fenced in. The Nandi in front
has been cleaned up and the road leading to the temple is being widened after clearing it of
encroachments. The dilapidated temple tank would be repaired, said Chandrasekaran.
Conservation work is also under way in the shrine dedicated to Mahendravarman in front of the
main temple. This shrine, with a vimana, was built by Mahendravarman III.
Indian Architecture Next Frontier for CONA, Our Soon-to-Launch Research Tool
By Murtha Baca | Published: September 12, 2012
Kailasanatha temple, Kanchi, Chingleput District, Chennai. View from the northeast. Patron:
Rajasimhavarman. Circa 695–722 C.E. Granite. Courtesy of the Center for Art and Archaeology,
American Institute of Indian Studies
Diagram from the CA&A photo archives pairing an elevation of a Hindu temple with associated
architectural terms. Courtesy of the Center for Art and Archaeology, American Institute of
Indian Studies.