WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
1
Walmart USA Apparel Quality Testing Manual Issued May 2008 Revised February 2011
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
2
Table of Contents 1 Introduction 6
11 Color Process 7 12 Pre-Production and Production Testing 7 13 In-Store Quality Audit 7
2 Regulatory Compliance 8 3 Testing Process for Apparel 9
31 National Brands Testing Process 9 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process 9
33 In-Store Quality Audit Process 11 34 Walmart Exception Orders 12
35 Test Report Ratings 14
36 Defect Classification 14
37 Testing Turn-Around Time 14
38 What to Submit 15
39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples 16
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples 17
311 Flammability Test Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear 17
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3
4 Childrenrsquos Apparel 18
41 Private Brand Garments 18
42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards 19
43 Apparel TrimHardware 19 431 Press Fasteners 19
bull Approved Press Fastener Suppliers
432 Zippers 20 bull Invisible Concealed Zippers bull Zipper Pulls bull Zipper Pull Attachments bull Approved Zipper Suppliers
433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders 23
bull Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
434 D-Rings 24
44 Dr aw st r in g s Co r d s amp Ties (Fu n ct io n al an d Deco r at iv e) 24 45 Adjustable Waistbands 25
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) 26
47 Belt s 27
48 Bath Robes 29
49 Fixed Bows 29
410 Functional amp Decorative Loops 30
bull Belt Loops bull Back Neck (locker) Loops bull Hanger Loops bull Hammer Loops
411 HatsCaps 31 bull Under-Chin Ties on Hats bull Under-Chin Straps on Hats
412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs 33
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413 Neck Ties 33
414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons 33
bull Toggles bull Toggle Buttons bull Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles bull Decorative Application bull Functional Application
415 Button and Buttonsew 35
bull Buttons bull Buttonsew
416 Hook amp Loop Fastener Tape 36
417 Thread Ends amp Float Threads 36
418 Decorative Trims amp Embellishments 37
bull Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery bull Beads amp Jewels bull Sequins bull Diamante (Rhinestones) amp Metal Studs bull Pom-Poms amp Fringe bull Fake (Faux) Fur bull Natural Feathers
419 Miscellaneous Requirements 38
420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs 38
5 Performance Specifications 39
51 General Requirements 39
52 Colorfastness Properties 40 53 Woven Fabrics 42
bull Woven Natural Cellulosic bull Woven Man-made Cellulosic Origin bull Woven Man-made Synthetic bull Woven Silk Wool Animal Hair bull Denim bull Woven Pile Fabrics
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54 Knit Fabrics 47
bull Weft Knits bull Warp Knits bull Knit Undergarments bull Hosiery - Socks and Tights bull Sweaters
55 LeatherSuede Apparel 51 56 Accessories 52
bull Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
57 Products with Special Claims 54 58 Zipper Performance Standards 56
Appendix A 57 Defect Type Classifications
Appendix B 70
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process
Appendix C 71 Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Appendix D 72 Material Adoption Process (MAP) Appendix E helliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphellip75
Trim Suppliers Appendix F 78 Mill Blank Suppliers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
6
WALMART Stores Inc
1 INTRODUCTION
This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials construction and test procedures that have been developed by the Apparel Technical Team various standards bodies regulatory agencies and independent labs The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meet or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual Additionally suppliers must be involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality Assurance internal testing operator training in line inspection root cause analysis of defects and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source An increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering only the best quality products to our customers You as a supplier are expected to deliver these defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into the supply chain This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying Irrespective of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual suppliers are still responsible for all aspects of the quality safety and compliance of their merchandise If you are in doubt as to the applicability of any law standard or regulation that applies to products that you intend to supply to Walmart please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical Representative
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11 Color Process
The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates The color manual is published in Retail Link at ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt CTL Documentation USA gt Colorrdquo or at the following web address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_docsadpENG6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74Cpdf The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic Lab Dip Shade Band Electronic to Shade Band testing Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions
NOTE The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE In-store testing is does not police color matching In-store testing only polices the color performance and not the color matching lab dips This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for the Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved
12 Pre-Production and Production Testing
The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import product and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier The test should be performed at 10 completion of the production and 30 days before ship date The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3 13 In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3
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2 REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws including Federal State and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection testing or audits
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt Product Safety and Compliance Libraryrdquo or at the following web address
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product
For information on Product Safety amp Compliance please visit the following web sites
rsaquo Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act httpwwwcpscgovABOUTCpsiacpsiahtml
rsaquo California Air Resource Board ndash Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products httpwwwarbcagovtoxicscompwoodcompwoodhtm
rsaquo Lacey Act
httpwwwaphisusdagovplant_healthlacey_actindexshtml
rsaquo Questions
gmcomplywal-martcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
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11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
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12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
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Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
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Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
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Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
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bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
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77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
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78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
2
Table of Contents 1 Introduction 6
11 Color Process 7 12 Pre-Production and Production Testing 7 13 In-Store Quality Audit 7
2 Regulatory Compliance 8 3 Testing Process for Apparel 9
31 National Brands Testing Process 9 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process 9
33 In-Store Quality Audit Process 11 34 Walmart Exception Orders 12
35 Test Report Ratings 14
36 Defect Classification 14
37 Testing Turn-Around Time 14
38 What to Submit 15
39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples 16
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples 17
311 Flammability Test Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear 17
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3
4 Childrenrsquos Apparel 18
41 Private Brand Garments 18
42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards 19
43 Apparel TrimHardware 19 431 Press Fasteners 19
bull Approved Press Fastener Suppliers
432 Zippers 20 bull Invisible Concealed Zippers bull Zipper Pulls bull Zipper Pull Attachments bull Approved Zipper Suppliers
433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders 23
bull Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
434 D-Rings 24
44 Dr aw st r in g s Co r d s amp Ties (Fu n ct io n al an d Deco r at iv e) 24 45 Adjustable Waistbands 25
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) 26
47 Belt s 27
48 Bath Robes 29
49 Fixed Bows 29
410 Functional amp Decorative Loops 30
bull Belt Loops bull Back Neck (locker) Loops bull Hanger Loops bull Hammer Loops
411 HatsCaps 31 bull Under-Chin Ties on Hats bull Under-Chin Straps on Hats
412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs 33
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4
413 Neck Ties 33
414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons 33
bull Toggles bull Toggle Buttons bull Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles bull Decorative Application bull Functional Application
415 Button and Buttonsew 35
bull Buttons bull Buttonsew
416 Hook amp Loop Fastener Tape 36
417 Thread Ends amp Float Threads 36
418 Decorative Trims amp Embellishments 37
bull Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery bull Beads amp Jewels bull Sequins bull Diamante (Rhinestones) amp Metal Studs bull Pom-Poms amp Fringe bull Fake (Faux) Fur bull Natural Feathers
419 Miscellaneous Requirements 38
420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs 38
5 Performance Specifications 39
51 General Requirements 39
52 Colorfastness Properties 40 53 Woven Fabrics 42
bull Woven Natural Cellulosic bull Woven Man-made Cellulosic Origin bull Woven Man-made Synthetic bull Woven Silk Wool Animal Hair bull Denim bull Woven Pile Fabrics
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
5
54 Knit Fabrics 47
bull Weft Knits bull Warp Knits bull Knit Undergarments bull Hosiery - Socks and Tights bull Sweaters
55 LeatherSuede Apparel 51 56 Accessories 52
bull Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
57 Products with Special Claims 54 58 Zipper Performance Standards 56
Appendix A 57 Defect Type Classifications
Appendix B 70
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process
Appendix C 71 Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Appendix D 72 Material Adoption Process (MAP) Appendix E helliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphellip75
Trim Suppliers Appendix F 78 Mill Blank Suppliers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
6
WALMART Stores Inc
1 INTRODUCTION
This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials construction and test procedures that have been developed by the Apparel Technical Team various standards bodies regulatory agencies and independent labs The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meet or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual Additionally suppliers must be involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality Assurance internal testing operator training in line inspection root cause analysis of defects and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source An increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering only the best quality products to our customers You as a supplier are expected to deliver these defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into the supply chain This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying Irrespective of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual suppliers are still responsible for all aspects of the quality safety and compliance of their merchandise If you are in doubt as to the applicability of any law standard or regulation that applies to products that you intend to supply to Walmart please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical Representative
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
7
11 Color Process
The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates The color manual is published in Retail Link at ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt CTL Documentation USA gt Colorrdquo or at the following web address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_docsadpENG6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74Cpdf The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic Lab Dip Shade Band Electronic to Shade Band testing Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions
NOTE The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE In-store testing is does not police color matching In-store testing only polices the color performance and not the color matching lab dips This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for the Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved
12 Pre-Production and Production Testing
The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import product and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier The test should be performed at 10 completion of the production and 30 days before ship date The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3 13 In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3
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8
2 REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws including Federal State and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection testing or audits
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt Product Safety and Compliance Libraryrdquo or at the following web address
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product
For information on Product Safety amp Compliance please visit the following web sites
rsaquo Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act httpwwwcpscgovABOUTCpsiacpsiahtml
rsaquo California Air Resource Board ndash Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products httpwwwarbcagovtoxicscompwoodcompwoodhtm
rsaquo Lacey Act
httpwwwaphisusdagovplant_healthlacey_actindexshtml
rsaquo Questions
gmcomplywal-martcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
3
4 Childrenrsquos Apparel 18
41 Private Brand Garments 18
42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards 19
43 Apparel TrimHardware 19 431 Press Fasteners 19
bull Approved Press Fastener Suppliers
432 Zippers 20 bull Invisible Concealed Zippers bull Zipper Pulls bull Zipper Pull Attachments bull Approved Zipper Suppliers
433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders 23
bull Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
434 D-Rings 24
44 Dr aw st r in g s Co r d s amp Ties (Fu n ct io n al an d Deco r at iv e) 24 45 Adjustable Waistbands 25
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) 26
47 Belt s 27
48 Bath Robes 29
49 Fixed Bows 29
410 Functional amp Decorative Loops 30
bull Belt Loops bull Back Neck (locker) Loops bull Hanger Loops bull Hammer Loops
411 HatsCaps 31 bull Under-Chin Ties on Hats bull Under-Chin Straps on Hats
412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs 33
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4
413 Neck Ties 33
414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons 33
bull Toggles bull Toggle Buttons bull Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles bull Decorative Application bull Functional Application
415 Button and Buttonsew 35
bull Buttons bull Buttonsew
416 Hook amp Loop Fastener Tape 36
417 Thread Ends amp Float Threads 36
418 Decorative Trims amp Embellishments 37
bull Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery bull Beads amp Jewels bull Sequins bull Diamante (Rhinestones) amp Metal Studs bull Pom-Poms amp Fringe bull Fake (Faux) Fur bull Natural Feathers
419 Miscellaneous Requirements 38
420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs 38
5 Performance Specifications 39
51 General Requirements 39
52 Colorfastness Properties 40 53 Woven Fabrics 42
bull Woven Natural Cellulosic bull Woven Man-made Cellulosic Origin bull Woven Man-made Synthetic bull Woven Silk Wool Animal Hair bull Denim bull Woven Pile Fabrics
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
5
54 Knit Fabrics 47
bull Weft Knits bull Warp Knits bull Knit Undergarments bull Hosiery - Socks and Tights bull Sweaters
55 LeatherSuede Apparel 51 56 Accessories 52
bull Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
57 Products with Special Claims 54 58 Zipper Performance Standards 56
Appendix A 57 Defect Type Classifications
Appendix B 70
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process
Appendix C 71 Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Appendix D 72 Material Adoption Process (MAP) Appendix E helliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphellip75
Trim Suppliers Appendix F 78 Mill Blank Suppliers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
6
WALMART Stores Inc
1 INTRODUCTION
This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials construction and test procedures that have been developed by the Apparel Technical Team various standards bodies regulatory agencies and independent labs The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meet or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual Additionally suppliers must be involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality Assurance internal testing operator training in line inspection root cause analysis of defects and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source An increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering only the best quality products to our customers You as a supplier are expected to deliver these defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into the supply chain This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying Irrespective of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual suppliers are still responsible for all aspects of the quality safety and compliance of their merchandise If you are in doubt as to the applicability of any law standard or regulation that applies to products that you intend to supply to Walmart please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical Representative
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
7
11 Color Process
The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates The color manual is published in Retail Link at ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt CTL Documentation USA gt Colorrdquo or at the following web address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_docsadpENG6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74Cpdf The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic Lab Dip Shade Band Electronic to Shade Band testing Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions
NOTE The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE In-store testing is does not police color matching In-store testing only polices the color performance and not the color matching lab dips This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for the Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved
12 Pre-Production and Production Testing
The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import product and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier The test should be performed at 10 completion of the production and 30 days before ship date The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3 13 In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
8
2 REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws including Federal State and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection testing or audits
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt Product Safety and Compliance Libraryrdquo or at the following web address
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product
For information on Product Safety amp Compliance please visit the following web sites
rsaquo Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act httpwwwcpscgovABOUTCpsiacpsiahtml
rsaquo California Air Resource Board ndash Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products httpwwwarbcagovtoxicscompwoodcompwoodhtm
rsaquo Lacey Act
httpwwwaphisusdagovplant_healthlacey_actindexshtml
rsaquo Questions
gmcomplywal-martcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
4
413 Neck Ties 33
414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons 33
bull Toggles bull Toggle Buttons bull Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles bull Decorative Application bull Functional Application
415 Button and Buttonsew 35
bull Buttons bull Buttonsew
416 Hook amp Loop Fastener Tape 36
417 Thread Ends amp Float Threads 36
418 Decorative Trims amp Embellishments 37
bull Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery bull Beads amp Jewels bull Sequins bull Diamante (Rhinestones) amp Metal Studs bull Pom-Poms amp Fringe bull Fake (Faux) Fur bull Natural Feathers
419 Miscellaneous Requirements 38
420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs 38
5 Performance Specifications 39
51 General Requirements 39
52 Colorfastness Properties 40 53 Woven Fabrics 42
bull Woven Natural Cellulosic bull Woven Man-made Cellulosic Origin bull Woven Man-made Synthetic bull Woven Silk Wool Animal Hair bull Denim bull Woven Pile Fabrics
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
5
54 Knit Fabrics 47
bull Weft Knits bull Warp Knits bull Knit Undergarments bull Hosiery - Socks and Tights bull Sweaters
55 LeatherSuede Apparel 51 56 Accessories 52
bull Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
57 Products with Special Claims 54 58 Zipper Performance Standards 56
Appendix A 57 Defect Type Classifications
Appendix B 70
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process
Appendix C 71 Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Appendix D 72 Material Adoption Process (MAP) Appendix E helliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphellip75
Trim Suppliers Appendix F 78 Mill Blank Suppliers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
6
WALMART Stores Inc
1 INTRODUCTION
This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials construction and test procedures that have been developed by the Apparel Technical Team various standards bodies regulatory agencies and independent labs The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meet or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual Additionally suppliers must be involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality Assurance internal testing operator training in line inspection root cause analysis of defects and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source An increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering only the best quality products to our customers You as a supplier are expected to deliver these defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into the supply chain This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying Irrespective of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual suppliers are still responsible for all aspects of the quality safety and compliance of their merchandise If you are in doubt as to the applicability of any law standard or regulation that applies to products that you intend to supply to Walmart please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical Representative
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
7
11 Color Process
The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates The color manual is published in Retail Link at ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt CTL Documentation USA gt Colorrdquo or at the following web address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_docsadpENG6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74Cpdf The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic Lab Dip Shade Band Electronic to Shade Band testing Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions
NOTE The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE In-store testing is does not police color matching In-store testing only polices the color performance and not the color matching lab dips This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for the Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved
12 Pre-Production and Production Testing
The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import product and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier The test should be performed at 10 completion of the production and 30 days before ship date The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3 13 In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
8
2 REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws including Federal State and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection testing or audits
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt Product Safety and Compliance Libraryrdquo or at the following web address
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product
For information on Product Safety amp Compliance please visit the following web sites
rsaquo Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act httpwwwcpscgovABOUTCpsiacpsiahtml
rsaquo California Air Resource Board ndash Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products httpwwwarbcagovtoxicscompwoodcompwoodhtm
rsaquo Lacey Act
httpwwwaphisusdagovplant_healthlacey_actindexshtml
rsaquo Questions
gmcomplywal-martcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
5
54 Knit Fabrics 47
bull Weft Knits bull Warp Knits bull Knit Undergarments bull Hosiery - Socks and Tights bull Sweaters
55 LeatherSuede Apparel 51 56 Accessories 52
bull Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
57 Products with Special Claims 54 58 Zipper Performance Standards 56
Appendix A 57 Defect Type Classifications
Appendix B 70
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process
Appendix C 71 Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Appendix D 72 Material Adoption Process (MAP) Appendix E helliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphelliphellip75
Trim Suppliers Appendix F 78 Mill Blank Suppliers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
6
WALMART Stores Inc
1 INTRODUCTION
This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials construction and test procedures that have been developed by the Apparel Technical Team various standards bodies regulatory agencies and independent labs The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meet or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual Additionally suppliers must be involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality Assurance internal testing operator training in line inspection root cause analysis of defects and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source An increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering only the best quality products to our customers You as a supplier are expected to deliver these defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into the supply chain This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying Irrespective of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual suppliers are still responsible for all aspects of the quality safety and compliance of their merchandise If you are in doubt as to the applicability of any law standard or regulation that applies to products that you intend to supply to Walmart please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical Representative
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
7
11 Color Process
The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates The color manual is published in Retail Link at ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt CTL Documentation USA gt Colorrdquo or at the following web address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_docsadpENG6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74Cpdf The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic Lab Dip Shade Band Electronic to Shade Band testing Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions
NOTE The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE In-store testing is does not police color matching In-store testing only polices the color performance and not the color matching lab dips This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for the Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved
12 Pre-Production and Production Testing
The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import product and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier The test should be performed at 10 completion of the production and 30 days before ship date The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3 13 In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
8
2 REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws including Federal State and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection testing or audits
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt Product Safety and Compliance Libraryrdquo or at the following web address
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product
For information on Product Safety amp Compliance please visit the following web sites
rsaquo Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act httpwwwcpscgovABOUTCpsiacpsiahtml
rsaquo California Air Resource Board ndash Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products httpwwwarbcagovtoxicscompwoodcompwoodhtm
rsaquo Lacey Act
httpwwwaphisusdagovplant_healthlacey_actindexshtml
rsaquo Questions
gmcomplywal-martcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
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59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
6
WALMART Stores Inc
1 INTRODUCTION
This Walmart Apparel manual specifies materials construction and test procedures that have been developed by the Apparel Technical Team various standards bodies regulatory agencies and independent labs The objective of the test program is to ensure that Walmart apparel meet or exceed these performance standards as listed in this manual Additionally suppliers must be involved in-depth with the manufacturing processes of their products including Quality Assurance internal testing operator training in line inspection root cause analysis of defects and corrective actions taken in the factory to stop non compliant product at the source An increased focus on quality has been implemented at Walmart and we are committed to offering only the best quality products to our customers You as a supplier are expected to deliver these defect free quality products and will be held accountable for allowing non-compliant product into the supply chain This manual is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying Irrespective of whether the supplier meets the requirements set forth in this manual suppliers are still responsible for all aspects of the quality safety and compliance of their merchandise If you are in doubt as to the applicability of any law standard or regulation that applies to products that you intend to supply to Walmart please seek advice from your legal counsel or Technical Representative
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
7
11 Color Process
The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates The color manual is published in Retail Link at ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt CTL Documentation USA gt Colorrdquo or at the following web address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_docsadpENG6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74Cpdf The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic Lab Dip Shade Band Electronic to Shade Band testing Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions
NOTE The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE In-store testing is does not police color matching In-store testing only polices the color performance and not the color matching lab dips This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for the Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved
12 Pre-Production and Production Testing
The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import product and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier The test should be performed at 10 completion of the production and 30 days before ship date The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3 13 In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
8
2 REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws including Federal State and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection testing or audits
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt Product Safety and Compliance Libraryrdquo or at the following web address
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product
For information on Product Safety amp Compliance please visit the following web sites
rsaquo Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act httpwwwcpscgovABOUTCpsiacpsiahtml
rsaquo California Air Resource Board ndash Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products httpwwwarbcagovtoxicscompwoodcompwoodhtm
rsaquo Lacey Act
httpwwwaphisusdagovplant_healthlacey_actindexshtml
rsaquo Questions
gmcomplywal-martcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
7
11 Color Process
The Walmart color testing process is managed by Consumer Testing Laboratories (CTL) in conjunction with Walmart Associates The color manual is published in Retail Link at ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt CTL Documentation USA gt Colorrdquo or at the following web address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_docsadpENG6F50B445F098422C938057168713F74Cpdf The manual will guide you through our color approval process from substrate submission to Lab Dip Electronic Lab Dip Shade Band Electronic to Shade Band testing Please refer to the Walmart Apparel Color testing manual for all color approval questions
NOTE The color approval process is not connected to the Pre-production and Production testing process Color is only tested for color performance and not color matching during the Pre-production and Production Testing process This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE In-store testing is does not police color matching In-store testing only polices the color performance and not the color matching lab dips This enables a Supplier to utilize either testing facility for the Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing
NOTE Color testing is done by CTL in either the Hong Kong Color Lab or the Bentonville Color Lab Pre-production Testing andor Production Testing can be done in any geographic location regardless of where the color is being approved
12 Pre-Production and Production Testing
The purpose of Pre-Production testing is to assess performance against Walmart quality standards before production so that problems can be addressed and revised before proceeding to production Pre-Production testing is required for all domestic and direct import product and should be completed 60 days prior to ship date A passing report is your approval to cut garments and proceed to production Production testing is required for all items regardless of label or supplier The test should be performed at 10 completion of the production and 30 days before ship date The purpose of the test is to verify that the materials and workmanship used in production meet or exceeds the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to the Gold Seal sample Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3 13 In-Store Quality Audit This phase of testing confirms that the mass produced apparel items meet or exceed the Walmart standards listed in this manual and that the product is identical to production sample Only top quality items that pass testing will remain in store Product that fails testing will be subject to withdraw Detailed testing requirements are published in Section 3
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
8
2 REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws including Federal State and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection testing or audits
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt Product Safety and Compliance Libraryrdquo or at the following web address
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product
For information on Product Safety amp Compliance please visit the following web sites
rsaquo Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act httpwwwcpscgovABOUTCpsiacpsiahtml
rsaquo California Air Resource Board ndash Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products httpwwwarbcagovtoxicscompwoodcompwoodhtm
rsaquo Lacey Act
httpwwwaphisusdagovplant_healthlacey_actindexshtml
rsaquo Questions
gmcomplywal-martcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
8
2 REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Walmart is committed to providing our customers with safe products that comply with all appropriate regulations and standards Walmart suppliers must comply with all laws including Federal State and Local laws as required under the Supplier Agreement Walmart reserves the right to monitor compliance through inspection testing or audits
The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory and safety requirements for apparel There is zero tolerance for critical regulatory failures that are discovered in our stores and non-compliant product will be withdrawn from the stores Walmart Product Safety and Compliance regulatory requirements can be accessed through Retail Link filed under ldquoRetail Link gt Site Map gt Product Safety and Compliance Libraryrdquo or at the following web address
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
Suppliers should visit this site regularly to keep abreast of the latest changes and new Walmart requirements This site is not all inclusive and relies on suppliers to be knowledgeable about the current industry and regulatory requirements that pertain to the garment they are supplying
Walmart does not provide legal advice to its suppliers Suppliers should seek their own legal counsel on how to comply with all laws applicable to their product
For information on Product Safety amp Compliance please visit the following web sites
rsaquo Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act httpwwwcpscgovABOUTCpsiacpsiahtml
rsaquo California Air Resource Board ndash Formaldehyde in Composite Wood Products httpwwwarbcagovtoxicscompwoodcompwoodhtm
rsaquo Lacey Act
httpwwwaphisusdagovplant_healthlacey_actindexshtml
rsaquo Questions
gmcomplywal-martcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
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9
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
10
3 Testing Process for Apparel The purpose of this section of the Apparel Testing Manual is to outline the responsibilities of Suppliers and the designated testing laboratory as it relates to the testing process itself It also defines testing processes for National Brands and Private Brands Suppliers This section details the Tiering system that looks at past testing history of suppliers and tiers suppliers by that performance The remainder of this section outlines other commitments required of Suppliers and the testing laboratory 31 National Brands Testing Process This section identifies testing process for Walmart National Brands and their testing protocols Note The following testing process also applies to Licensed Merchandise bull No Color Testing unless a Walmart CSI Color used bull Pre-production is mandatory for direct import suppliers and domestic suppliers bull Production Testing is required for all styles bull In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly by the designated testing laboratory National Brands Suppliersrsquo performance will be reviewed by Walmart bi-annually and additional testing requirements may be applied to below average suppliers National Brands Pre-Production and Production test failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team for resolution In-Store Critical Regulatory failures are sent by the test lab to the Walmart Compliance Team and Critical Walmart failures are sent by the test lab to the NY Technical Team In-Store Critical Regulatory High Sampling Retest (HSR) Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance In-Store Critical Walmart High Sampling Retest Failures will be sent to the NY Technical Team who will notify Compliance Department for Product withdrawal from stores Note A second Production level test is required for all Childrenrsquos items which remain in stores longer than 6 months 32 Supplier Tier Testing Process Supplier Tiering is not applicable to the testing program for Walmart Apparel The previous ldquotiering processrdquo cannot be supported due to the following reasons requirements
1 Pre-production and Production Testing is now a requirement for all product shipping to the stores for Walmart Apparel Pre-production testing is an essential step in managing the quality expectation and deliverable of our supplier base
2 With the introduction of multiple 3rd party testing facilities CTL and Bureau Veritas turn time of testing is the responsibility of the 3rd party testing facility
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11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
11
Laboratory Report Distribution and Failure Resolution
Critical Regulatory Failures 1 Production Failures and Production Retest Failures will be sent to the Supplier
Production Retest Failures will be sent to Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
2 In-Store Failures will be sent to the Supplier and Walmart Compliance with a copy to the NY Apparel Technical Team
3 Production Corrective Action Plans (CAPrsquos) will be requested and evaluated by the testing laboratory
Critical Walmart Failures 1 Production Failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Apparel Technical Team 2 In-Store failures will be sent to the Supplier and the NY Technical Team The NY Apparel
Technical Team will contact the Compliance Department for withdrawal of the product All Major (non-critical) failures will be sent to the Supplier and to the NY Apparel Technical Team for resolution 33 In-Store Quality Audit Process
In order to ensure that merchandise meets Federal and State requirements Industry Standards and our Customerrsquos needs Consumer Testing Laboratories Inc (CTL) will test merchandise pulled directly from Walmart stores sales floors The In-Store Quality Audits are performed quarterly This section identifies what will be pulled from stores and defines the testing protocol in place if this ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo fails testing For the ldquoinitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo all sizes and colorways representative of each style will be pulled from the stores with a minimum of 4 garments per style Additional testing of failed In-Store goods (High Sampling Retest) may be required when the ldquoInitial In-Store Quality Auditrdquo results in a Critical Regulatory or Critical Walmart Test Failure (see High Sampling Retest section below) High Sampling Retest for Major or Minor failures will be at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team If the same style is packaged differently (ie different case packs) only 1 test of that style will be tested Different Countries of Origin or newly introduced colors require additional separate testing The Initial In-Store Quality Audit During the initial In-Store Quality Audit all items will be pulled for testing as soon as
garments are available in stores Full testing will be conducted including Critical Regulatory and Critical Walmart compliance reviews and performance
High Sampling Retest A High Sampling Retest will be conducted when an initial In-Store Quality Audit fails
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
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46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
12
- Critical Regulatory In-Store failures will immediately generate a High Sampling Retest
- Critical Regulatory Failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Recall from the stores
- Critical Walmart and Major In-Store Failures will generate a High Sampling Retest only at the direction of the NY Apparel Technical Team for Private and National Brands
High Sampling Retests will be pulled from 5 regions of the country and subjected to
retesting for the failure attribute only (not full testing) unless full testing is requested by Walmart
The High Sampling Retest piece count will be based on the chart on the next page
The total required piece count for the High Sampling Retest will be accomplished by
pulling equal quantities of samples from 5 Walmart regions of the country The decision to pass or fail the product will be determined by the number of defects per
acceptance and rejection level shown in the chart below For the purpose of High Sampling Retest multiple defects within the same garment will represent one (1) rejection
The total number of samples required for testing will be based on the sampling plan procedures outlined in ANSIASQ Z14 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (known as Military Standard) Special Inspection Level S-4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection (Table II-A of the Standard)
Order Size Sample size Number of Major and Critical Walmart defects
acceptancerejection Up to 10000 pieces 32 pieces 2 3 10001 to 35000 pieces 50 pieces 3 4 35001 to 500000 pieces 80 pieces 5 6 500001 and up 125 pieces 7 8 Important Note Critical Regulatory failures have a ldquozero tolerancerdquo level and any failure will result in a Product Withdraw from the stores 34 Walmart Exception Orders
Flow of fashion-right product remains a key Walmart strategy These orders use very quick lead times and require different approaches streamlining the approval and testing process while maintaining safety quality and consistency of product Exception orders are buys made outside of the normal milestone deadlines in order to react to market direction or fashion trends Note Supplier must review all requirements to enable proper approval process as defined below before accepting an order Items must be clearly identified by the prefix code in the style for the Supplier Quote (SQ) and Global Design Pack GDP (if applicable) purchase orders and on testing applications for all exception orders All test results must be satisfactory to ship
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
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50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
13
Identification Type of Order Prefix
Code Fast Fashion FF Pick Up Buy PB Test Order TO Emerging Brand EB
Note Hot Spot items must be clearly marked on the testing applications Note Screen Print Suppliers using Walmart approved Mill Blanks must reference Mill Blank Suppliers report numbers on testing application for screen print durability testing only to apply Childrenrsquos garments will include CPSIA requirements to be performed also Requirements Type of Order Walmart Approval Testing
Order Verified by VP Senior
Category Director
Color Gold Seal (Fit)
Aesthetic Pre-Production
Production In-Store
Fast Fashion ndash A normal size order where delivery is paramount and the buy is outside the regular milestone meeting
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Pick Up Buy ndash An order where goods already exist For National or licensed brand only For private label amp proprietary see Apparel Development Manual
Required Not required Not required
Required Not required Required Required
Test Order ndash An order where units are small to test future buys
Required Not required Required Required Required Required Required
Emerging Brand ndash Brands new to Walmart
Required Not required Not required
Required Required Required Required
Mill Blanks- Adults and Children
Not required
Not required
Not required
Required Not required Required Required
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
14
Note Gold Seal approvals only applies to Walmart PrivateProprietary Label Brands Refer to the Apparel Development Manual located in the following link for all Walmart PrivateProprietary Label requirements
httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=2797ampukey=W4083
Note The above Exception Requirements are applicable to all apparel including adults kids and baby All products must meet quality standards as defined in the Walmart Apparel Quality Testing Manual Orders not meeting these standards are subject to product withdrawal 35 Test Report Ratings The completed test report which suppliers receive will be rated one of three ways Pass Marginal Pass or Fail This section identifies defects that lead to these ratings and where a supplier will be tiered It will also determine future testing requirements for those suppliers PASS The sample has no Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart Major or Minor Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A MARGINAL PASS All products with Minor Defects (see Appendix A for minor defects classification) and minor deviations from standards as decided by the laboratory will be rated ldquoMarginal Passrdquo Marginal Pass rating is an approval for supplier to ship goods In situations where numerous violations of approved standards continue these ratings
could result in future test failure Suppliers should ensure that they adhere to the Walmart Apparel Standards and
implement a running change in the manufacturing process for future ordersrsquo improvement
Walmart reserves the right to cancel any order with a Marginal Pass rating FAIL The sample has Critical Regulatory Critical Walmart or Major Defects as defined in section 36 and as listed in Appendix A 36 Defect Classification Defects are classified according to the nature and severity of the defect Defect classification will determine the Pass Marginal Pass or Fail rating received on the test report Below is an explanation of defect classifications and the types of defects found in those classifications
Critical Regulatory ndash Product that is non-compliant with government regulations
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
15
Critical Walmart ndash Walmart requirements that are not covered by law Major ndash Likely to result in customer complaint or return Minor ndash Unlikely to result in customer complaint or return
Refer to Appendix A for a list of defect classifications 37 Laboratoriesrsquo Commitment to Suppliers - Testing Turn-Around Time
Standard Testing Turn-Around Time ndash See section 32 ldquoPrivate Brands Testing Processrdquo for Standard Testing Turn-Around times Express Testing Services are available at extra cost Express Testing is a two day (48 hours) turn-around excluding the day the product is received
Express Testing by Supplier Tier
bull Tier 1 Suppliers ndash Express testing is not needed as standard turn-around time is 2 days at no extra charge to suppliers
bull Tier II and Tier III Suppliers ndash Express Testing is available at two times the regular testing
charge Certain products may require specialized testing protocols and therefore may need extended time for testing The test lab will not be able to conduct Express Testing for these samples 38 The Supplierrsquos Commitment - What to Submit
Pre-Production - For each body style the supplier must submit two prototype garments with all production quality trims hardware and attachments along with 2 yards of bulk quality fabrics in each additional color to be supplied to Walmart stores A product is considered to have the same body style if the following criteria are identical
Country of origin Garment construction Fiber content and fabric construction Size specs Trims Rib construction
Pre-Production Retest ndash Pre-Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without the approval of the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional information about the failure and how suppliers can ensure the issue will not happen again during production The supplier must receive a passing Pre-Production Test report before proceeding with garment production and submission of Production test samples
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16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
16
Production ndash When 10 of garment production is complete the supplier must submit garments representing all sizes and colorways for Production testing For each body style the supplier must submit two garments of each colorway The entire submission must include at least one garment of each size Note Critical Regulatory failures require the supplier to submit a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for the failure (Refer to the CAP process as outlined in Appendix B ndash Corrective Action Plan (CAP) Process) Only one (1) Production Retest is allowed for Critical Regulatory Failures after retest approval from the Product Safety and Compliance Team Production Retest ndash Production retests for Walmart critical major and minor failures are not allowed without approval from the NY Apparel Technical Team The Technical Team may require additional testing procedures such as having the retest samples pulled and sealed by our 3rd party inspection service require a factory inspection by our 3rd party before shipment retest submit a CAP addressing the failure or scheduling meetings to address quality and corrective action etc The order may not ship without a passing production test report Premium Gift with Purchase Program ndash A premium gift with purchase is defined as an itemgift offered as a bonus with the purchase of a primary item The supplier of the gift will submit the product for Pre-Production testing Once the premium gift product receives a passing test the supplier of the primary item will then submit the primary item the gift with the passing test report and the packaging as a final product for Production testing to the primary item testing laboratory Additional Supplierrsquos Documentation ndash The following documentation must be submitted with each Pre-Production or Production sample as applicable
- Certificate of Compliance (COC) as required by Walmart Regulatory Standards and per Toxics in Packaging Regulations (TIP)
- Supporting documentation for labeled claims such as ldquochemical freerdquo - Organic Cotton ndash Certificate from a Walmart approved certifier for organic cotton
Please review the appropriate testing protocol for your product prior to sample submission to determine documentation to submit with your product Note All independent laboratory reports must be dated within one (1) year of sample submission to the testing lab An exception to this is Toxicological Risk Assessment (TRA) reports which have a two (2) year period 39 When to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for passing all required testing and should not wait for the Test Lab notification forms in order to submit samples to the laboratory for testing As per direction from Walmart the Testing Laboratory monitors the testing process by reviewing all Purchase Orders to ensure all orders are tested in compliance with the Walmart testing requirements This monitoring is accomplished by reviewing the testing status of all Purchase Orders and if testing is not complete the applicable Testing Notification Forms will be issued as follows
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
17
bull Pre-Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 60 days prior to
the shipping date bull Production Testing Notification Forms will be forwarded to the supplier 30 days prior to the
shipping date bull If the supplier fails to submit Pre-Production or any required Production samples for testing
15 days prior to the shipping date the Test Lab will issue a Non-Compliance Testing Notification Form
310 Where to Submit Pre-Production and Production Samples Suppliers are responsible for submitting samples to the designated testing laboratory All suppliers both Domestic and Direct Import have a choice to submit Fabric and Apparel items to any designated laboratory However once a location is chosen for Pre-Production testing all subsequent testing for that item and coordinating items Production and Retest must occur in the same facility 311 Flammability Testing Process for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear (16 CFR 16151616) This testing process applies to all childrenrsquos sleepwear items such as nightgowns pajamas or similar related items such as robes and loungewear which are intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping All fabric production units (FPU) all prototype trim and seams and all garment production units (GPU) must be tested prior to shipment Note No GPU will be tested unless the FPU and prototype trims and seams tests have passed testing No exceptions are allowed Retest of Samples that Failed Flammability Testing Only one (1) retest will be allowed on a fabric or garment production unit and any prototype seams or trim that fails the childrenrsquos sleepwear flammability test Submitting Samples for Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability Program Suppliers are responsible for submitting all samples to the designated testing laboratory for flammability testing Required Sampling for Flammability Testing following a Normal Plan
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
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46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
18
bull Fabric Production Units (FPU) ndash When submitting fabric for flammability testing send at least two (2) yards of the production quality fabric at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning of the first piece and the end of the last piece in the 5000 yard unit If the unit is made up of only one piece at least one (1) yard should be cut from the beginning and the end of that piece Label each piece accordingly (beginning or end)
Note If the 50x wash requirement applies send a total of four (4) yards from the FPU Two (2) yards cut from the beginning and two (2) yards cut from the end
bull Prototype Seam ndash When submitting prototype seams for flammability testing make a sufficient number of prototype seams to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each seam to be tested The seam(s) should be constructed using the longest seam type and any other seam types ten (10) inches or longer to be included in the garment
bull Prototype Trim ndash When submitting prototype trim for flammability testing provide enough to obtain up to six (6) sample sets of five (5) specimens (30 individual specimens) from each type of trim to be included in the garment
Note Prints (screen or sublistatic) are considered trim for flammability testing purposes
The trim should be constructed using the criteria described below
- Garments with Horizontal Trim Configurations - Prepare the specimens by sewing
or attaching the trim horizontally to the bottom edge of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric If more than one row of trim is used on the garment the specimens must be prepared with the same configuration as the garment
- Garments with Other Trim Configurations ndash Prepare the specimens by sewing or
attaching the trim to the center of the vertical axis of an appropriate section of untrimmed fabric Be sure to begin the sewing or attaching at the lower edge of each specimen
Note For either configuration the sewing or attachment must be made in the manner in which the trim is attached to the garment The sewing and attaching must be done with thread or fastening material of the same composition and size to be used in the garment using the same stitching or seam type
bull Production Testing for Flammability ndash When submitting production garments for
flammability testing randomly select a sufficient number of garments from each garment production unit (GPU) for the laboratory to obtain three (3) samples (15 individual specimens) from the longest seam type
bull Testing Application Form for Flammability ndash A completed Testing Application Form must
be included with each fabric and garment production unit submitted for testing Reference must be made on the application form of all previous lab report numbers
Note If any In-Store product is found without passing Production Flammability testing the Supplier will be put on notice which may result in loss of order for a season (minimum)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
19
4 CHILDRENrsquoS APPAREL The Walmart Product Safety and Compliance Team manages regulatory requirements for apparel and provides direction for associated failures This manual does not address regulatory requirements and you must access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684 41 Private Brand Garments All press fasteners zippers dungaree clips (hasps) thread and sliders must be from an approved Walmart trim supplier If during the testing process it is not possible to determine whether a component is from an approved supplier the testing laboratory will require documentation (ie invoice) to substantiate the component used is from an approved supplier For the approved list of trim suppliers please refer to Appendix E 42 Childrenrsquos Apparel Mechanical Hazards Components used on childrenrsquos apparel such as zippers drawstrings fasteners and decorative attachments must not present any hazards to children during normal use or as a result of reasonably foreseeable damage or abuse
For the purpose of this document the following correlation has been established to relate the age of a child to the appropriate apparel size
Size Age
0-9M Under 1 yr 12M-5T 12M to Under 3 yrs
Girls 4-6X Boys 4-7 3 years to 8 yrs Girls 7-20 Boys 8-20 9 yrs amp up
Note For clarity the remainder of this section will refer to size (not childrenrsquos ages) when specifying requirements
43 Apparel TrimHardware
431 Press Fasteners
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel can be constructed of metal or plastic
Plastic press fasteners for all childrenrsquos apparel sizes must be pre-applied to twill tape from an approved trim supplier as listed in Appendix E
Exception Vinyl like wearing apparel (eg raincoats) may have plastic press fasteners that are not pre-applied to twill tape for sizes 4 and up This exception does not apply to sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
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50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
20
Press fasteners used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T shall not be positioned at the
knee area or any other area that could cause injury or discomfort
Press Fastener Examples
POST FASTENER PRONG FASTENER RIVETED RHINESTONE
STUD BUTTON RIVET GROMMETS EYELETS Ap p r o v ed Pr ess Fast en er Su p p lier s All press fasteners must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Use of
an unapproved trim supplier on Private Label garments will result in a failure from testing lab
Press fasteners from any other sources are not permitted Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
432 Zippers
Pin Lock zippers are not acceptable for childrenrsquos apparel
Closed ended zippers (such as zippers that run into a waistband) must always have a
bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Open-ended zippers must have a top and bottom stop for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-
5T Top stops must be designed to prevent the zipper slider from pulling off Zipper stops specifically designed so that the zipper slider can be removed (as in the
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
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44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
21
examples below) are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Zippers which include any metal components require a zipper guard or facing to prevent
the zipper from coming in direct contact with the skin (not required for metal zipper components which do not come in direct contact with skin)
Plastic top and bottom stops are recommended for all zipper types If metal stops are
used prongs must face away from the childrsquos body or be covered with fabric to prevent scratching All top bottom stops must be securely attached
Invisible Concealed Zippers Invisib leconcealed zip p ers are no t p erm it t ed f o r ch ild ren rsquos ap p arel sizes 0ndash5T
INVISIBLE CONCEALED ZIPPER
Zipper Pulls
A zipper pull is the component used to open and close a zipper It can be attached through either the main body of the zipper slider or through the eye of the zipper pull
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) are NOT permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Indirect attachment pulls (2-piece zipper pulls) is where there is an intermediate connection ring between the pull and body ndash the pull is lsquoclampedrsquo onto the ring
Direct attachment pulls (one-piece zipper pull) is where the pull inserts directly into the slider body
Ring pulls or other open type designs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
22
Ring Pull Open Design Pulls
One piece ring pulls or other open type designs can be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes
4 and up providing the inside diameter of the ring (measured at widest point) does not exceed 1 inch
Zipper Pull Attachments Fabric zipper pull attachments must be secured through the eye of the zipper pull with a
bar tack or similar secure attachment method Elastic pulls are not acceptable on childrens apparel sizes 0-6x (girls) and 0-7 (boys)
For sizes where they are allowed elastic pulls must be no longer than 1 inch in the relaxed state
Waddedfilled zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Plastic and rubber zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T
Looped zipper pull attachments are not allowed on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-6X (girls)
or 0-7 (boys) Zipper pull attachments used on childrenrsquos apparel (all sizes) must meet the maximum
length requirement indicated below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
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59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
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BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
23
Ap p r o v ed Zip p er Su p p l ier s
All zippers must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E Zippers from any other sources are not permitted
Zippers must be sourced from an approved supplier as a complete unit with all of the
components shown below Zipper components (eg top stops and zipper tape) must not be individually purchased and self-assembled
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law 433 Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Sliders
There must be no visible joins on either the dungaree clip (hasp) or slider This is to prevent potential injury during wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T the dungaree clip (hasp) unit and construction of the strap and slider must be designed so that they cannot become detached from the garment
Dungaree clips may be constructed of ferrous metal and therefore must be attached after metal detection
Approved Dungaree Clips (Hasps) and Slider Suppliers
Po si t io n o f Zip p er Pu l l At t ach m en t Max im u m Len g t h At t he en d s o f long skir t s o r t ro users 1 in
At t he en d s o f long sleeves 1 in At cen t er p lacket s 1frac12 in All o t h er locat ion s 2 in
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
24
All dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders must be from an approved source as listed in Appendix E
Exception National Brands may source from non-approved trim suppliers as long as all product requirements are met as stated in the manual or as required by law
434 D-Rings (attached on garments)
D-Rings are not permitted on childrenrsquos garments sizes 0-5T D-rings are not permitted at the end of ties with free ends for childrenrsquos apparel All metal D-Rings used on childrenrsquos apparel or on items included with childrenrsquos
apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes
There must be no visible joins in a D-Ring This is to prevent potential injury during
wear as visible joins on metal components can be very sharp All joins must be securely covered with fabric
The D-Ring must be designed so that it cannot become detached from the garment
D-Rings
44 Drawstrings Cords and Ties (Functional and Decorative)
Definitions
Drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel casing loops eyelets or similar has 2 loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment it self
Continuous drawstring - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a garment has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous drawstring
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
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77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
25
Cords amp Ties (decorative) ndash Cord chain ribbon string or tape of textile or non-textile material which is attached to the garment and has no functional attributes
Access the Childrenrsquos Apparel Directive for specific drawstring requirements on retail link at the following address httpsretaillinkwal-martcomrlFileUploadmainaspxtopic=5ampukey=W4684
45 Adjustable Waistbands Adjustable waistband elastic must be secured to the garment with a bartack at the center
back to prevent the band from being pulled out
Cords amp Ties (functional) - Cord chain ribbon string or tape of any textile or non-textile material which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the size of the opening or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
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30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
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31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
26
46 Sashes amp Thin Ties Tied at Waist Area (Dresses and Tops) Sizes 0-5T Sash Requirements Sashes measure at least 1 frac14 inch in width Sashes must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or
sashes are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment Sashes must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that they cannot be
removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
Definitions
Sashes Ties- A textile band permanently sewn in the side seams at the waist area of a dress or a top w h ich is in tended to be tied in the back
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
27
Size 4 and up Sash amp Thin Tie Requirements Sashes and thin ties must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so that
they cannot be removed The length of all sashes when untied must be no more than 14 inches (measured from the
point where they are to be tied)
It is recommended that tops and dresses include loops near the center back so if ties or sashes
are untied they do not hang below the hem of the garment 47 Belts
Belts - General Requirements
bull Belts without buckles for sizes 0-5T must be permanently and securely attached at the waist area so they cannot be removed
bull Belts for sizes 0-5T must not hang below the hem of the garment when untied bull Buckles D-rings are not permitted on belts which are permanently attached to
garments intended for sizes 0-5T bull Belts with buckles D-rings are permitted on unattached fabric belts intended for
sizes 0-5T provided that the strap end of the belt does not exceed 3 inches in length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
28
bull Garments with non-attached belts must have belt loops at both side seams at a
minimum to prevent the belt from being a trip hazard when untied
Belts ndash Strap End Length Restrictions (Based on measurement criteria below)
Belt Type Garment Size
0-5T 4-20
Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Attached to Garment Not Permitted
5frac12 inches Belts with Buckles D-Rings - Not Attached to Garment 3 inches
Belts without Buckles (tied belts) Attached or not attached to garment 14 inches 14 inches
Measurement Criteria
bull All belts measurements are taken while fastened to the intended garment
bull Belts without buckles (tied belts) are measured from the point where they are intended to be tied
bull Belts with buckles are measured from where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
29
bull Belts with buckles and punched holes are fastened to the intended garment and buckled at the center hole For belts which have an even number of punched holes the belt is fastened one hole past the center point (eg a belt with 6 punched holes is buckled at the 4th hole from the strap end)
bull Belts without punched holes (eg braided belts belts with D-ring buckles) or for belts
with punched holes around the entire belt the belt is fastened to the intended garment and closed with the garment and belt lying flat The measurement is taken where the belt strap exits the buckle to the strap end
48 Bath Robes Belts used on bath robes must be permanently attached and meet the requirements for
belts 49 Fixed Bows Bows must be securely attached at or near the center The tail ends of the bow must be secured with either a double turn secured with a lockstitch
a heat seal or laser cut The table below indicates the maximum lengths for fixed bow tail ends and loop lengths
0ndash5T Girls 4ndash20 Boys 4ndash20
Loops Tails Loops Tails Fixed Bows (in all areas other than below) 3rdquo 3rdquo 3rdquo 5frac12rdquo
Fixed Bows (located at the Hood Neck Ankle or Below the Elbow) 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo 1frac12rdquo 1rdquo
The total loop length and tail length of a bow are measured from the bartack or from the exit
point as shown below
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
30
410 Functional and Decorative Loops Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions that must be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops The loop length must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference when measured end to end the end being the point at which the loop is attached to the garment
Bartacks
No visible bartack loops are measured from exit points
Bartack at both sides of bow loops are measured from bartacks
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
31
Belt Loops Belt loops must be attached so that they lie flat against the garment Belt loops are securely attached and reinforced with bartacks Back Neck (locker) Loops Back neck (locker) loops must be located in the center back neck and positioned at the inside
of a garment only Hanger Loops Hanger loops are not permitted on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hanger loops for sizes 4 and up should be constructed of clear elastic tape which must break
away under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C)
Hammer Loops Hammer loops are allowed on childrenrsquos apparel however they must be designed in such a
way that the hammer loop does not exhibit any loops which exceed 3 in length
3rdquo x 3rdquo maximum with center bartack 411 Hats Caps Hat Caps with Under-Chin Ties Under-chin ties are only allowed on occasion wear (eg religious clothing) INSERTED PICTURE OF OCCASION WEAR HAT
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
32
Under-chin ties must meet the following requirements
bull Ties are not continuous
bull Ties do not exceed 8 inches in length when measured from the point of securement
bull Ties are not constructed of elastic
bull Ties exhibit no trims attached to the ends Pom-poms tassels or similar types of decorative trims are not permitted on the crowns of hats with under chin ties Hats Caps with Chinstraps Chinstraps are allowed on all childrenrsquos hats caps Chinstraps must meet the following requirements
bull Chinstraps must fit snugly against the chin bull The chinstrap must not be a continuous loop which is permanently attached to each
side of the hat cap Exception is elastic chin straps that fit snugly against the chin Hats Caps with no Securement Means Pom-poms tassels and other types of decorative trim are permitted on hats with no means of securement (eg chinstraps ties)
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual Hats with Decorative Tassels or Non-Functional Tassels
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
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44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
33
Tassels used on hats for children must not be of a length that is capable of being knotted or tied into a bow under the chin (Tassels are tested in an un-stretched state with hat placed upon head form as intended to be worn)
PERMITTED
NOT PERMITTED
Decorative trim when allowed must meet all requirements for decorative trim and embellishments as outlined in section 418 of the manual 412 Halter Neck Style Garments and Baby Bibs Halter neck style garments and baby bibs must not be constructed with free ends in the hood
and neck area
The use of hook and loop tape self fabric snap fasteners and buttons are recommended as
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
34
alternative fastening methods for halter neck style garments and baby bibs
413 Neck Ties
Neck ties are allowed for all sizes
For sizes 0-5T the tie must be designed in such a way that it detaches or breaks away
under the weight of the child (for applicable testing weights please reference Appendix C) 414 Toggles amp Toggle Buttons Toggles Toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material All metal toggles used on childrenrsquos apparel must be non-ferrous to ensure garments can
pass through a metal detector This includes metallic finishes Toggles must only be used on drawstrings cords or ties that have no free ends In addition
free ends cannot be knotted together to form a continuous loop Toggles must not be positioned where they could cause injury or discomfort Toggles in the
knee area are not allowed Toggle Buttons Loops used to attach a toggle button to a garment must be securely bartacked as close to
the toggle button as possible while still being functional
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
35
Loops used to secure a toggle button must not exceed 3 inches in total circumference
Pig Nose Toggles (Cord Lock) Spring Loaded Toggles Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on a garment and have either a decorative
or functional application However below are the guidelines pertaining to the size groups that these trims can be used for and also the method of attachment
Decorative Application Pig nose and spring loaded toggles can be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a decorative
application The following factors must be considered when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
Decorative pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck area The cord must be securely attached to the garment Elastic cords can only be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 12M and above The pig nosespring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it
cannot be removed from the garment The cord and toggle must sit flush to the garment
The cord must be securely bartacked no more than 38rdquo from the eyelet or buttonhole
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
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59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
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BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
36
Functional Application Pig nose and spring-loaded toggles can sometimes be used on childrenrsquos apparel as a
functional application The following requirements apply when attaching pig nose and spring loaded toggles to rigid and elastic cords
- Functional pig nose or spring loaded toggles are NOT allowed in the Hood or Neck
area
- The pig nose (cord lock)spring loaded toggle must be securely contained within the loop of the cord so it cannot be removed
- The cord must be secured with a bartack to prevent it from being pulled completely
out of the garment
- The loop circumference cannot extend more than 3rdquo when the cord is cinched to the body and must fully retract inside the waistband when the garment is fully extended
- The toggle cannot be attached to a continuous drawstring
415 Buttons and Buttonsew Buttons Buttons used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must not be constructed of wood cork
leather mother of pearl (shell) glass or other non-durable material Two-piece multi-component buttons must not be used for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Fabric covered buttons must not be used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0ndash5T Spare buttons are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Buttonsew All buttons must be attached using a lockstitch button attach machine for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 416 Hook and Loop Fastener Tape A low profile high tech hook is recommended for use on all childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T Hook and loop tape must be positioned on the garment so only the loop part of the fastener
38rdquo
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
37
tape is in direct contact with the skin The corners of hook and loop fasteners must be die cut or rounded to avoid sharp edges and
prevent potential irritation to the skin 417 Thread Ends and Float Threads Thread Ends Toe seaming threads or other thread ends on socks or footed garments for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-6M must be trimmed to a maximum of frac34 inch Thread ends in the handfinger area of mittensgloves must not be over frac34 inch for sizes 0-
6M For footed garments socks or booties intended for sizes 0-6M with a seam around the sole
the start stop position must be in the ankle area to prevent seaming thread ends in the toe area
Float Threads The table below indicates the maximum length and use restrictions for float threads used on
apparel and accessories intended for sizes 0-6M
Float Threads (0-6M)
Socks Booties or Footed Garments
Foot Area Not permitted
Non-Foot Area frac12 inch maximum length
Mittens
Hand Finger Area Not permitted
Other Areas
(other than foot or hand area) frac12 inch maximum length 418 Decorative Trims and Embellishments Beads and Jewels Beads and jewels are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
38
Beads or jewels used on other childrenrsquos apparel sizes must not be constructed of metal glass or wood
Sequins For childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T sequins must exhibit stitching on at least 5 points around
each sequin as shown below
Sequins must not be constructed of metal Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins that are tacked at
5 points do not require the small part choking hazard hangtag Diamante (Rhinestones) and Metal Studs Diamante (Rhinestones) and metal studs are not permitted for childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T For sizes 4 and up riveted items are considered Press Fasteners and must follow
requirements listed in section 431 Note Garments intended for sizes 4-6X (girls) 4-7 (boys) which exhibit sequins beads and jewels rhinestones and metal studs must include the small part choking hazard hangtag as outlined in section 42 Appliqueacutes amp Embroidery Appliqueacutes and embroidery must be backed with interlining if the reverse is scratchy and in
direct contact with the skin Interlinings used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
create a small parts hazard Pom-Poms amp Fringe Traditional Pom-Poms or fringe made from hand knitting sweater yarns are not permitted on
childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T
Stuffed pom-poms made from fabric must be new and completely enclosed inside a lining Pom-Poms and fringe must not be constructed with metal components Pom-Poms must not be attached to the end of a drawstring cord or tie with free ends Fake (Faux) Fur Fake (faux) fur used on childrenrsquos apparel sizes 0-5T must be securely attached so as not to
easily pull out Natural Feathers
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
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44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
39
Natural feathers are not permitted for use in any part of the exposed make-up of childrens
wearing apparel or accessories Note Caps and hats are exempt from the requirement
Boas constructed of natural feathers are not permitted
Note Feathers contained within fabric or filled as in outerwear are acceptable 419 Miscellaneous Requirements Abrasive metallic yarns or any other abrasive materials are not permitted for use in garments
designed for children 0ndash9M Monofilament thread is not permitted for use on childrenrsquos apparel unless it is properly
covered with a backing Boys swim short liners must be constructed of micromesh fabric with a minimum of 225 holes
per square inch Pairing clips as shown below are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos
apparel sizes 0-5T
Thread packaging tacks are not permitted on socks or mittens designed for childrenrsquos apparel
sizes 0-5T 420 Polyvinyl Chloride in Childrenrsquos Bibs It is a Walmart requirement that all childrenrsquos plastic bibs are manufactured from material that does not contain PVC
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
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59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
40
5 Performance Specifications 51 General Requirements for All Textile Apparel
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30 (less than 10 content of metallic spandex blend) plusmn 1
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Fur Products Labeling Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability (Adults and Childrenrsquos) 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1-Note assess and test non-exempt fabrics
only Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance Childrenrsquos Sleepwear Flammability
16 CFR Part 1615 16 CFR Part 1616 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Fabric Qualities Construction Workmanship
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns missed stitches or other fabric defects
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Product should be free of any other defects that may affect the serviceability or appearance
Ph
pH AATCC 81 Whites 50 ndash 80 Dyed 50 ndash 85
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
41
General Requirements for All Textile Apparel (continued)
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Nickel Nickel (Ni) release in metal components (childrenrsquos garments where metal component is in contact with skin)
EN 1811 05 mgcm2week
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos apparel Natural feather boas are not allowed Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on adult and childrenrsquos apparel (such as natural feathers used as filler for a jacket)
Note For products intended for children refer to the section 4 covering Childrenrsquos Apparel 52 Colorfastness Properties All Fibers All Fabrications
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Crocking
All Fabrics All Fiber Contents (except as noted below)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 40 min Wet Grade 30 min
Denims tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics
AATCC 8
Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 20 min
Dark colorways for plain surface fabrics (very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red)
AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min Wet Grade 25 min
Dark Indigo denim (rinse wash) AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 min
Wet Grade 15 min
Black Denim AATCC 8 Dry Grade 35 min Wet Grade 15 min
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
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43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
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44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
42
All Fibers All Fabrications (continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Other Colorfastness
Accelerated Laundering ( bulk fabric only) AATCC 61 2A
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Hand wash (1 cycle) Machine wash (3 cycles) (except as noted below)
AATCC 135 150 per care instructions
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Home Laundering Denims sulfur dyes tie dyes dip dyes pigment prints raised fiber surfaces pile fabrics dark colorways for plain surface fabrics
AATCC 135 150 Shade Change Grade 35 min Staining Grade 30 min
Bleach Chlorine Non-chlorine
AATCC TS-001
Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 40 min
Drycleaning (1 cycle) AATCC R-003 Shade Change Grade 40 min Self Staining Grade 45 min
Light AATCC 16 Option 3
Outerwear 20 AFU Grade 35 Swimwear Neons 10 AFU Grade 30 All other fabrics 20 AFU Grade 35
Perspiration AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 35 min
Water (color blocked only) AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Staining Grade 35 min Swimwear Only
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Shade Change Grade 40 min
Sea Water AATCC 106 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Water AATCC 107 Shade Change Grade 40 min Staining Grade 30 min
Very deepdark navy green burgundy maroon purple brown black and red
Note For colorfastness properties on leather and suede apparel refer to Section 55 LeatherSuede Apparel
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
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44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
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46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
43
53 Woven Fabrics Woven Natural Cellulosic - Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp Jute and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 To care instructions
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Other Natural Cellulosics and blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 Stretch fabrics (wSpandex) +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 40 CorduroyFlannel+10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 TerryBasket +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Cotton amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Other Natural Cellulosics amp blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
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50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
44
Woven Man-Made Cellulosic Origin - Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) Rayon from Bamboo Triacetate Viscose and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand wash (1 cycle) or Machine wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
+10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven Man-Made Synthetic - Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) Polyester Spandex Vinal Vinyon and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per care instructions
Length +10 ndash 30 Width +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length +10 ndash 20 Width +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
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46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
45
Woven - Predominantly Silk Wool Animal Hair and Blends (50 or more)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 40 +10 ndash 40 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL Silk and Blends +10 ndash 25 +10 ndash 25 Wool and Animal Hair Blends +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 30 Maximum
Woven ndash Denim
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006 Per Care Instructions
WARP FILL +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30 +10 ndash 30
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
WARP FILL +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20 +10 ndash 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 3 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
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59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
46
Woven - Physical Performance
Woven - All Fibers All Fabrications (except as noted)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 25 20 25 - 43 ozsq yd 35 25 44 - 73 ozsq yd 40 30 ge 73 ozsq yd 50 40
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 15 10 25 - 43 ozsq yd 20 15 44 - 73 ozsq yd 22 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 25 20
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt43 ozsq yd 20 min ge 43 ozsq yd 25 min production seam- opening must not exceed frac14rdquo
Stretch Properties (stretch direction only) ASTM D 3107 Denim 15 min all other record results
Denim
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 300 200 80 - 98 ozsq yd 500 400 99 - 119 ozsq yd 600 500 ge120 ozsq yd 700 600
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 20 20 80 - 98 ozsq yd 30 25 99 - 119 ozsq yd 40 35 ge120 ozsq yd 50 40
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 150 ge 80 ozsq yd 200
Heavily Distressed Denim (bleached sand blasted acid washed or enzyme washed)
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 240 160 80 - 98 ozsq yd 400 320 99 - 119 ozsq yd 480 400 ge120 ozsq yd 560 480
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 80 ozsq yd 16 16 80 - 98 ozsq yd 24 20 99 - 119 ozsq yd 32 28 ge 120 ozsq yd 40 32
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lb lt 80 ozsq yd 120 ge 80 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
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77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
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78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
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47
Woven- Physical Performance (continued)
Woven Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel - Corduroy Terrycloth Velvet Velveteen Other Pile Fabrics and Cotton Flannel
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 (Grab)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt 25 ozsq yd 200 120 25 - 43 ozsq yd 280 200 44 - 73 ozsq yd 320 240 ge 73 ozsq yd 400 320
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 (Elmendorf)
Weight Warp lbf Fill lbf lt25 ozsq yd 10 10 25-43 ozsq yd 15 15 44-73 ozsq yd 20 20 ge 73 ozsq yd 22 22
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683
Weight Seam lbf lt44 ozsq yd 120 ge 44 ozsq yd 160
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
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49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
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50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
48
54 Knit Fabrics
Test Description Test method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Physical Performance
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786
Weight psi lt 100 gsq m (lt 30 ozsq yd) 30 ge 100 gsq m (ge 30 ozsq yd) 35
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention AATCC 135 150 158 (length width)
(1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles) Fabric Types
Fiber Content Jersey Double
Knit Pique
Interlock Rib Knits
Fancy Knits
Pointelle Birdrsquos Eye Jacquard
Thermal Waffle
Apparel
Fake Fur Fleece
French Terry Velour Terry
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 60 Width 60
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 60 Width 60
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 70 Width 60
Length 80 Width 60
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 50 Width 50
Length 50 Width 50
Length 60 Width 60
Length 70 Width 70
Length 80 Width 80
Length 50 Width 50
Predominantly Wool Animal Hair or Silk (50 or more)
Home Laundering (3 cycles) Length 60 Width 60
Hand Washing or Drycleaning (1 cycle)
Length 30 Width 30
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
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77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
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78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
49
Weft Knit Apparel
Warp Knits
Minimal Shrinkage Garment Washed Shrinkage Standards All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 50 Width 50
Dimensional Stability ndash Growth All Fiber Contents and Weft Constructions
Length 20 Width 20
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 50 50 Width 50 50
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 30 30 Width 30 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Plain Knits Lace Net and Mesh Knits Length 20 20 Width 20 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1
Fabric 40 Max Tops and Shorts 40 Max Skirts Pants Dresses Sleepwear 40 Max
Physical Performance Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 20 psi (lace only)
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50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
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51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
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54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
50
Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase
Order (plusmn 50 )
WaleCourse Count ASTM D 3887 (Sec12) As specified in the Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 )
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC TS-006
Length 60 Width 60
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Commercial Drycleaning (1 cycle)
AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 or 3 cycles)
AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003
Length 20 Width 20
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing (cotton sweaters only)
AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 40 Maximum
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
51
Knit UndergarmentsUnderwear
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 (length width)
(3 machine wash cycles)
Fiber Content Athletic Shirts Rib Knits Jersey Thermal Waffle
Predominantly Cotton Linen Ramie Hemp or Jute (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 100 Width 100
Predominantly Acetate Lyocell Modal Rayon (Cuprammonium and Viscose) or Rayon from Bamboo (50 or more)
Length 140 Width 140
Length 100 Width 100
Length 90 Width 90
Length 90 Width 90
Predominantly Acrylic Aramid Modacrylic Nylon Olefin (Polyethylene and Polypropylene) or Polyester (50 or more)
Length 80 Width 80
Length 70 Width 70
Length 60 Width 60
Length 80 Width 80
Note 50 synthetic blended with any other fibers use the synthetic standard Dimensional Stability ndash Growth
All Fiber Contents and Constructions
Length 30 Width 30
Appearance Retention
Appearance Retention (after 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling or other changes that affect the appearance
Skewing
Skewing AATCC 179 Method 1 Option 1 60 Max
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52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
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53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
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BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
52
Knit Hosiery - Socks and Tights
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Sock Weight (lbdz) ASTM D 3776 (adapted) As specified in Product Specification or
Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Colorfastness
All Colorfastness (except as noted below)
AATCC method as applicable
Refer to the colorfastness requirement table in the apparel section
Perspiration - Black Socks Tights amp Hosiery (predominantly nylon only)
AATCC 15 Shade Change Grade 40 Staining Grade 25
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 100 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 100 Wool Blends 60
Dimensional Stability - Growth Hand Wash (1 cycle) or Machine Wash (3 cycles)
AATCC 150
Length and Width Natural amp Man-made Blends 50 Blends Including Stretch Fibers 10 Wool Blends 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles) Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems broken stitches holes unraveled seams excessive pilling differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance
Fit Performance
NAHM NAHM sizing boards Socks must fit on appropriate NAHM form after 3 laundry cycles
55 LeatherSuede Apparel Leather Suede
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention Skewing
Dimensional Stability - Shrinkage (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 30 Width 30
Dimensional Stability - Growth (1 cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning
Length 10 Width 10
Appearance Retention (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seams hems holes unraveled seams or other changes that affect the appearance
Shade Change (after 1 professional leather cleaning cycle)
Professional Leather Cleaning Shade Change Grade 40
Colorfastness
Crocking AATCC 8 Dry Grade 30 Wet Grade 20
Light AATCC 16 Option 3 10 AFU Grade 40 Water Spotting AATCC 104 Shade Change Grade 30
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
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59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
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78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
53
56 Accessories General Requirements for Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Reference Performance Requirements
Labeling
Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423 ASTM D 3136 ASTM D 5489
Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation as applicable
Fiber Content 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 AATCC 20 AATCC 20A
Must comply with Fiber Content Labeling Regulations as applicable 100 fabrications plusmn 00 Fiber content blends plusmn 30
Country of Origin 16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303 19 CFR Part 134
Must include a label identifying the country of origin as to FTC andor CBP as applicable
Manufacturerrsquos Identification
16 CFR Part 300 16 CFR Part 303
Must include a label identifying the manufacturerrsquos name registered trademark or registered identification number as applicable
Labeled Dimensions and Product Count
NIST Handbooks 130 and133
Must conform to labeled dimensions and labeled product count
Faux Fur or Real Fur NY CLS Gen Bus 399-aaa 16 CFR Part 301
Must include a Faux Fur or Real Fur Label as applicable Real Fur must comply with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Flammability Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 if applicable Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance
Natural Feathers Natural feathers are not allowed on exposed portions of adult and childrenrsquos accessories Natural feather boas are not allowed Natural feathers are allowed on caps and hats Unexposed natural feathers are allowed on accessories (such as natural feathers used as filler)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
54
Performance Requirements for all Accessories - Belts Caps Ear Muffs Gloves Hair Accessories Hats Mittens Neckties Scarves Ski Headbands Ski Masks Stocking Caps Suspenders and Pet Accessories
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Fabric Qualities Construction
Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains holes slub yarns miss stitches etc
Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even within a sample and between samples
Construction Workmanship Visual Evaluation
Seams should be neat with no open seams or needle damage Hems should be straight uniform and consistent Loose threads should be properly trimmed Should be free of any other defects that would affect serviceability or appearance
Fabric Weight (ozsq yd OR gsq m OR lbdz OR unit weight)
ASTM D 3776
As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) ozsq yd woven scarves lbdz knit scarves ski headbands ski masks mittens gloves and stocking caps unit weight (grams) woven caps ear muffs gloves hats mittens neckties and hats Do not weigh belts hair accessories pet accessories or suspenders
Thickness ASTM D 1777 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (plusmn 50 ) Only perform on leather belts
Dimensional Stability Appearance Retention (1 dryclean 1 hand wash or 3 machine wash cycles)
Dimensional Stability AATCC 135 150 AATCC 158 AATCC R-003 AATCC TS-006
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Appearance Retention (after 1 or 3 cycles)
Visual Evaluation
General appearance must be satisfactory no open seamshems broken stitches holes tarnishedrusted components or other changes that affect the appearance
Physical Performance Seam Strength (test production seams)
ASTM D 1683 25 lbf (work gloves only)
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Refer to the performance requirement table for the relevant fabric in apparel section
Home Laundering AATCC 135 150 Perspiration AATCC 15 Light AATCC 16 Option 3 Water AATCC 107
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
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77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
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BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
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55
57 Products with Special Claims
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Antimicrobial AATCC 147 AATCC 100
Must have verification from independent lab to verify antimicrobial claim Original fabric tested for Staphylococcus aureus Klebsiella pneumoniae
Anti-pilling ASTM D 4970 Minimum Grade 40
Color Retention
AATCC 135 (washing) AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (color change)
Solids and yarn dyes Grade 40 Prints Grade 30 Tested after 5 home launderings For development test after 20 launderings Grade 30
Breathability ASTM E 96 =gt 500 gm2 per 24 hrs
Air Permeability AATCC 737-04 lt 4 ft3ft2 x min Moisture Vapor Transmission ASTM D 737 10 cfm max
Stain Repellency Stain Resistance AATCC 118
Original Grade 5 Must repel 5 Oil (n-dodecane) After 5 Home Launderings Grade 4 Must repel 4 Oil (n-tetradecane)
Stain Release Stain Management AATCC 130 modified
Grade 40 (minimum original and after 5 home launderings) Apparel tested for food borne stains
Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil and Ketchup
Scrubs tested for Chocolate Syrup Corn Oil Ketchup and Betadine
Ultraviolet Radiation (Blocking Through Fabrics)
AATCC 183 ASTM D 6603
Must have verification from independent lab to verify UV claim on original fabric Claim UPF Value Good 15 to 24 Very Good 25 to 39 Excellent 40 or greater
Water Resistance (Hydrostatic Pressure Waterproof)
AATCC 127 Minimum 2000 mm head of water Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Resistance (Rain Test) AATCC 35 modified Max 1 gram at 2 feet (600 mm) 2 minutes
Original and after 5 home launderings
Water Repellency (Spray Test) AATCC 22
Original Minimum Spray Rating 90 After 5 Home Launderings Minimum Spray Rating 70
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Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
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57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
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58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
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Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
56
Products with Special Claims (Continued)
Test Description Test Method Performance Requirements Product Claims
Wicking AATCC TS-017
Must wick 60 cm in 30 minutes Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Resistance (Easy Care)
AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 35 Seam Smoothness Grade 30 Crease Retention Grade 35 Tested after 5 home launderings
Wrinkle Free AATCC 124 AATCC 88B AATCC 88C
Fabric Smoothness Grade 40 Seam Smoothness Grade 35 Crease Retention Grade 40 Tested after 5 home launderings
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
57
58 Zipper Performance Standards Zippers - ASTM D 2061
Fastener Class 1-2 3-4 5-6-7 8-9 10 Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf)
Metal 75 120 120 140 175 Aluminum 55 65 85 85 95
Molded Plastic 30 55 85 110 130 Coil 75 85 140 175 200
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf) Metal 20 20 25 30 30
Aluminum 20 20 25 30 30 Molded Plastic 20 20 25 35 45
Coil 10 13 25 40 45 Slider Pull Pull-Off Strength (lbf)
Metal 30 35 40 50 60 Aluminum 30 30 35 50 60
Molded Plastic 20 25 35 40 50 Coil 20 20 45 50 50
Slider Pull Twist-Off Strength (in-lb) Metal 25 35 40 50 50
Aluminum 25 25 40 50 50 Molded Plastic 15 25 40 50 50
Coil 10 15 40 50 60 Top Stop Strength (lbf)
Metal 15 17 20 30 35 Aluminum 15 17 20 30 35
Molded Plastic 15 17 20 30 35 Coil 15 17 20 30 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf) Metal 15 15 20 25 30
Aluminum 15 15 20 25 30 Molded Plastic 15 15 20 25 30
Coil 15 15 20 25 30 Note All zippers should have bottom stops and top stops that are appropriate for the type of zipper
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
58
Appendix A Defect Classification
The following list is not all inclusive and shows only examples of various defects Additional defects may be identified during testing
Flammability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1610 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Insufficient Fabric submitted for production testing
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1611 ndash Standard for the Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616- Standard for the Flammability of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to provide labeling in compliance with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 or 1616 for Tight Fitting Childrenrsquos Sleepwear measurement requirements
Failure to comply with 16 CFR Part 1615 for Age Grade Labeling of Childrenrsquos Sleepwear
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
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Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
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72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
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73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
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74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
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75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
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APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
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77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
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BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
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79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
59
Small Parts Sharp Points Sharp Edges
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR Sharp points sharp edges Small parts choking hazard Zipper Pull failure for torque tension test (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted small parts warning hangtag (sizes 0-5T )
Fails to provide small parts choking warning hangtag on garment which contain certain embellishments or metal chain (sizes 4-6X 4-7)
Includes unnecessary small part choking warning hangtag (sizes 4-6x 4-7)
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR NY Law - Exhibits drawstrings in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-12) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndash Drawstring at the bottom of an Upper Garment is not attached at midpoint (sizes 2T-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
NY Law ndashFree ends of the drawstring exhibits a toggle knot or any other attachment Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Exhibits drawstrings in the neck area (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
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Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
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Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
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HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
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Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
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65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
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Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
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Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
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Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
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Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
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70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
60
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear exceeds 3 inch maximum length (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear is not sewn at the midpoint of the channel (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
WI Law ndash Drawstring in the waist or at the bottom of Upper Outerwear includes toggles knots etc at the free ends (sizes 0-16) Applies to all USA merchandise
Drawstrings are not in compliance with requirements for length other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring in a non-permitted area of the garment other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Includes a drawstring cord or tie that is not properly secured other than NY or WI law violations (sizes 0-20)
Drawstrings cords or ties exhibit a non-permitted bead (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
61
Drawstrings Ties amp Bows Belts amp Sashes Loops (contrsquod)
CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Includes a non-permitted belt cord or tie constructed from metal chain (sizes 0-5T)
Chain belt does not break away under weight of child (sizes 4-20)
Includes an elastic cord or tie in the hood or neck area (sizes 0-5T)
Free ends of drawstrings cords and ties exhibit a non-permitted knot toggle or similar attachment (sizes 16-20)
Sashes amp Belts do not conform to requirements
Includes non-permitted halter neck baby bib ties (sizes 0-5T)
Fixed bows do not comply with maximum length of loops or tails requirements (sizes 0-20)
Belt Hammer and Locker Loops not properly constructed
Includes a protruding loop which exceeds the 3 inch length requirement
Includes non-permitted hanger loop (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
62
Hardware Fasteners CRITICAL -REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Any restricted chemical that exceeds requirements of Walmart Childrens Product Safety Standards
Hardware not from nominated supplier
Hardware provided in area which could injure or cause discomfort (sizes 0-5T)
Plastic press fastener not pre-applied to twill tape
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted zipper type (sizes 4-20)
Zipper does not include proper top or bottom stops (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 0-5T)
Zipper Guard Missing (sizes 4-20)
Includes a non-permitted zipper pull type (sizes 0-20)
Includes a non-permitted type of zipper pull attachment (sizes 0-6X amp 0-7)
Zipper pull attachment exceeds maximum allowable length
(sizes 0-20)
Hasp not properly attached to straps (sizes 0-5T)
Includes a non-permitted D-Ring (sizes 0-5T)
D-Ring does not meet requirements (sizes 4-20)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
63
HardwareFasteners (contrsquod) CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Backing material missing (size 0-5T)
Yarn Floats and Long Threads in the Foot amp Finger Areas (sizes 0-6M)
Yarn Float or Thread end exceeds maximum length requirements (sizes 0-6M)
Button not lockstitch attached (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted button or toggle (sizes 0-5T)
Toggle not properly applied (sizes 0-20)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 0-5T)
Hook And Loop Tape ndash Not Rounded (sizes 4-20)
Includes non-permitted decorative embellishments (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted type of pom-poms or fringe (sizes 0-5T)
Includes non-permitted natural feathers (sizes 0-20)
Packaging
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Socks or mittens includes non-permitted pairing clips or thread packaging tacks (sizes 0-5T)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
64
Labeling CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR FTC Violations Care Label - None Care Label - Conflicting Care Label - Detaches Care Label - Impractical Care Label - Illegible Country Of Origin - Conflicting Care Label- No method Procedure
Country Of Origin ndash Improper Placement
Fiber Content - Not Included
Fiber Content - Abbreviated Fiber Content - Generic Fiber Content - Incorrectly Labeled
Fiber Content - Sectional Disclosure
Labeling - No GPU Manufacturerrsquos ID - Missing State Law Incorrect Piece Count andor Labeled Dimensions on Package (NIST Handbook 130 amp 133)
Hangtag Conflicts With Sewn-In Label Misspelled Wording
Toxics in Packaging Legislation ndash certificate missing
NY State Law (NYCLS GEN BUS 399 aaa) Does not include label to identify Faux or Real Fur
Incorrect Information on Hangtag Pieces of Set Are Different Sizes
Source Tag - Damaged EAS Label
Source Tag - Hang Tag Not Included
Source Tag - Not Comply With Guidelines
Source Tag - Missing
Source Tag - Swift Attachment Exceeds Length
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
65
Labeling (contrsquod) Conflicts with PO CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL ndash WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Labeling Conflicts with POSuppliers Quote
Product Info Conflicts with Suppliers Quote
Performance
Durability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Durability - Buckling of Zippers or Seams
Durability - Detaching of Components Attachments Appliqueacutes
Durability - Fraying of Seams Button Holes
Durability - Holes In Fabric Durability - Open Seams
Durability - PaintPrint Chipping or Peeling
Durability - Print Loss
Durability - Puckering of Seams or Zipper Tape
Durability - Snagging of Fabric Yarns or Sewing Threads
Durability - Unraveling of Seam Threads or Embroidery Threads
Shape DistortionTorque of Garment Side Seams
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
66
Performance (contrsquod)
Fabric Qualities CRITICAL - REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Coordination - Does not match coordinating pieces
Fabric Qualities - StainsDiscoloration
Shade Variations Between Garments
Fabric Qualities - Stiff Hand
Fabric Qualities - Printing Defects Fabric Qualities - WeavingKnitting Irregularities
Strength - TearTensile Printing Defects - Minor Misprints Leaving Barely Noticeable White Areas
Fabric Damage-Needle CuttingHoles
Fabric Quality - Dying Irregularities
Fabric Weight Thread Count
Shading - Color Differences Panel to Panel
Knit Bursting Strength
Construction Workmanship
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Poor Construction eg open seam broken stitch etc
Seam Strength - Does not meet requirements
Stretchability - Insufficient Neck Stretchability
Stretchability - Poor Recovery YarnSeam Slippage Zipper Performance
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
67
Performance (contrsquod)
Dimensional Stability
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Shrinkage - Differential
ShrinkageGrowth - Excessive
Color Properties
CRITICAL - REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
AbrasionFrosting Discoloration - After Wash BleedingStaining
BleedingStaining - Static Wetting
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Chlorinated Pool
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Perspiration
BleedingStaining Colorfastness - Seawater
Color Change - Lightfastness Color Change - Washing Color Loss - Washing Crocking - WetDry
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
68
Performance (contrsquod) Product Claims Features
CRITICAL- REGULATORY
CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Absorbency - Poor
Fabric - Insufficient Amount Submitted
No Documentation Submitted - Adult
Stain Release (Food Borne Stains)
Stain Repellency (118) Wicking Wrinkle Resistance Water Proof - Storm Water Repellency - Spray Water Resistance - Rain
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
69
Measurements
Measurements
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Fit Properties - Poor Garment Fit Insufficient Stretchability - Leg Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Head Opening
Insufficient Stretchability - Trunk Support
Insufficient Stretchability ndash Waistband
Measurements - Do Not Conform
Measurements - Inconsistent
Specifications
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Size Specifications - No Final (Production)
Size Specifications - No Final (Pre-Production)
Specifications - Changes To Final
Size Specifications - Not Submitted (Production)
Specifications Not Submitted (Pre-Production)
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
70
Color Color Approval
CRITICAL- REGULATORY CRITICAL - WALMART MAJOR MINOR
Color Approval - Electronic Color Approval Does Not Match Production But is Stand Alone Item
Color Approval - Lab Dip Color Approval Does Not Match Production but Still Looks OK to Coordinating Items
Color Approval - No Records
Color Approval - Shade Bands
Color Approval - Wash Down
No Lab Dip or Shade Band Listed on Application
Incorrect Lab DipShade Band From Supplier
No Approved Shade Band on File for Comparison
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
71
Appendix B
CORRECTIVE ACTION PLAN (CAP) PROCESS
Corrective Action Plan (CAP) for Critical Regulatory Failure All Critical Regulatory Production test failures will require the supplier to complete a Corrective Action Plan (CAP) and submit the CAP to the Test Lab for further disposition as listed below
The supplier must properly complete the CAP form The CAP is submitted to the Test Lab to review for proper completion
If the CAP is incomplete or the Corrective Action Plan is not acceptable the CAP will
be rejected by the Test Lab and the supplier will have to resubmit correctly
Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos ndash Supplier submits sample for retest Non-Approved Critical Regulatory Production CAPrsquos will be sent to the Walmart
Compliance Department for a decision
The Compliance Department will copy the NY Apparel Office
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
72
Appendix C Childrenrsquos Body Weight Tables
Infant Toddler Sizes (0-5T) Boys Girls Sizes (4-16) Husky Plus Sizes
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 4 33 33 5 37 37 6 43 43
6X --- 49 7S --- 53 7R --- 60 8R 59 66 9S 58 --- 9R 65 --- 10S 65 67 10R 73 74 11S 71 --- 11R 80 --- 12S 77 77 12R 87 84 14S 90 89 14R 100 96 16S --- 103 16R 115 110 18R 126 --- 20R 138 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls 6H 55 --- 7H 61 ---
8 HP 67 --- 9H 73 --- 10 HP 81 ---
11H 88 --- 12 HP 95 ---
13H 103 --- 14 HP 112 ---
15H 121 --- 16 HP 130 ---
17H 137 --- 18H 143 --- 19H 150 --- 20H 156 --- 21H 163 --- 22H 170 --- 23H 178 --- 24H 186 ---
Garment Size
Body Weight of the Child (lbs)
Boys Girls
Preemie 5 5
Newborn 65 65
0-3M 12 12
3-6M 125 125
6-9M 185 185
9-12M 205 205
12-18M 245 245
18-24M 25 25
2T 2 25 25
3T 3 29 29
4T 33 33
5T 37 37
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
73
Appendix D
MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS (MAP) Walmart Private and Proprietary Brands
The previous Standard Fabric Testing Process (SFT) has been replaced by the Material Adoption Process (MAP) When a fabric is identified for a potential garment program (pre ADM) the Material Adoption Process must be adhered to The MAP consists of two stages A) Primary Test Process to obtain Fabric ID Number then B) Material Adoption Process to get a Walmart Adoption Number A Walmart Adoption Number is necessary before the fabric can be ordered in bulk
A PRIMARY TEST PROCESS
Before a fabric can be considered it must have a Walmart-assigned Fabric ID Number To obtain this Fabric ID Number the vendor must submit the following to the relevant Walmart Raw Material Team (see Note 1)
1 Completed Primary Test Application Form (Form PT1)
2 Fully completed Fabric Specification Sheet (Knits Form RM-K1 Wovens Form RM-W1 Denim Form RM-D1)
3 3 x A4-size swatches representative of fabric being submitted (Form PT2) One swatch will be held by the Regional Raw Materials team and two will be held by New York Raw Materials department
4 One satisfactory test report for this fabric (see list of Mandatory Primary Tests)
i If this is a new development the test report should be produced by CTL or BV
ii If this is a running item but new for Walmart a recent bulk test report can be submitted if from a recognized industry laboratory and tested within the previous 6 months
List of Mandatory Primary Tests bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm tumble dry medium
bull Bursting strength Tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
Note If any previous color testing report is available this should also be submitted
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
74
The test report and fabric specimen will be reviewed by Raw Materials and a Fabric ID Number will be assigned if the fabric specification sheet is complete and the tested parameters meet Walmart requirements The vendor will be notified via Retail Link and by email
B MATERIAL ADOPTION PROCESS
This applies to fabric that is being used for AFM samples therefore takes place prior to AFM A satisfactory result will lead to the issuance of a Walmart Adoption Number (WAN) No preproduction testing can begin without a Walmart Adoption Number To obtain a WAN the vendor must supply to Walmart Raw Materials
1 Completed Material Adoption Application Form (Form MAP1)
2 2 yards from the same fabric being used for AFM garment samples This will be sent for physical testing ndash see Mandatory Test List FA
3 In addition for color testing 1 yard of a minimum of 3 colors being sampled The choice of colors should be by the vendor and selected on the basis of being either lsquocriticalrsquo color or ones which may not meet the Walmart standard for production
4 2 x A4 swatches of each color being sampled (Form FA2)
NB For new developments that achieved Fabric ID with a new CTL or BV test report and have had no further changes (eg weight finish) vendor should submit only for color testing as outlined List of Mandatory Fabric Adoption Tests
bull Fiber Content
bull Fabric Construction (walescourses or endspicks)
bull Fabric Weight (knits in gmsup2 and wovens in ozysup2 or gmsup2)
bull Dimensional stability to machine wash warm
bull Bursting strength tensile strength
bull Fabric Skewing Torque
bull Yarn Size
bull Color Fastness to Washing and Cross-staining
bull Color Fastness to DryWet Crocking
bull Color Fastness to Light
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
75
Notes
1) Documentation swatches and test reports should be sent to
i Domestic supply chain New York Raw Materials
ii Global Sourcing Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team in relevant region RM China (Shenzhen or Shanghai) RM Bangladesh RM India RM Korea RM Dubai or RM Mexico
iii DSG Supply Chain Offshore Raw Materials Team ndash Shenzhen
BULK FABRIC PROCEDURES There are new recommendations and expectations for bulk material handling They are outlined in the BULK HANDLING PROCEDURES document which can be found following this link httpretaillinkwal-martcomrl_postingview_reviewaspxdocid=3116ampukey=W4288
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
76
APPENDIX E NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS This section lists our nominated trim suppliers where you can source trim and details the procedures for becoming a nominated trim supplier All private label and proprietary Walmart brands must use our nominated trim suppliers for all zipper rivet clasp snapsand thread applications National licensed and Emerging Brands garment suppliers may source their own trim from suppliers that meet quality expectations If visual identification of the supplier of trim or thread is not possible suppliers must submit to Walmart documentation showing nominated trim has been used in the production of subject garments Additionally inspections at the factories will include verifying nominated trim is being used
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
77
NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIERS
PRESS FASTENERS YKK (Universal Fasteners Stocko Newmax) wwwykkfasteningcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Scovill Fasteners Inc wwwscovillcom Morito (Kane-M and Compass only) wwwmoritocojp Mississippi Trading Co (MTI) wwwmississippitradingcom Lamcom Inc wwwlamcominccom DUNGAREE CLIPS (hasps) amp SLIDERS YKK wwwykkcom Prym wwwprym-fashioncom Mississippi Trading Co wwwmississippitradingcom ZIPPERS YKK wwwykkcom Ideal Fastener Corp wwwidealfastenercom Talon Zippers wwwtalonzipperscom HHH Zipper wwwhhhzipcom Coats Optic Zippers wwwcoatscom Lamcom Zippers wwwlamcominccom Scovill Zippers wwwscovillcom Max Zipper Co wwwmaxzipcomtw KPP Zipper Co wwwkppzippercom YCC Zippers wwwycccn SBS Zippers httpwwwsbszippercomhk THREAD AampE wwwamefirdcom Coats amp Clark wwwcoatsandclarkcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
78
BECOMING A POTENTIAL NOMINATED TRIM SUPPLIER The Walmart Nominated Trim Supplier list is managed and maintained by the NY Trim Manager Suppliers are added or deleted from the list for any of the following reasons
bull Costing bull Change in our sourcing strategy bull Product offering bull Manufacturing capacity bull Quality and test results
Once it is determined to proceed with nominating a trim supplier the following passing audits and testing must be completed
bull Ethical Standards Audit bull Passing test results for performance quality and regulatory requirements bull FCCA Audit
Contact the NY Trim Manager for further information
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
WM USA Apparel Manual Revised February 8 2011
79
APPENDIX F NOMINATED MILL BLANK SUPPLIERS This section lists our preferred suppliers of blank t-shirts to our graphic t-shirt suppliers These nominated mills are approved to test annually and are required to meet the Walmart quality and performance requirements listed in this manual Graphic t-shirt suppliers who use blanks from our preferred mills are exempt from pre-production testing The graphic performance only is tested in production phase During in-store quality audits both the mill blank and graphic is tested to the complete test protocol Failures on blanks during in-store testing will result in the blank supplier being removed from the nominated list Note the nominated mill blank procedure is applicable to adult and childrenrsquos products NOMINATED SUPPLIERS
NOMINATED BLANK SUPPLIERS Alstyle Apparel wwwalstylecom Delta wwwdeltaapparelcom Gildan wwwgildancom amp gildanblanksgildancom Hanes Brands Inc wwwhaneslocatorcom
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