ContentsForewordbyAmyButler
IntroductionBasicEquipment
TheSewingMachineAnatomyofaBag
1:GettingStartedMakeit…TheVersatileBookBag
2:ChoosingFabricsMakeit…TheReversibleBucketBag
3:StructureAndReinforcementMakeit…TheCocktailRuffleClutch
4:LiningsMakeit…TheOrganizedOfficeBag
5:ClosuresMakeit…TheOversizedFashionistaBag
6:HandlesAndStrapsMakeit…TheGreatGetawayBag
7:PocketsMakeit…TheMulti-TaskingTote
8:EdgingsandTrimmingsMakeit…ThePiping-HotHobo
ConstructionSuppliers
AbouttheAuthorCopyright
Allfull-sizetemplatescanbedownloadedat:www.stitchcraftcreate.co.uk/patterns
Dedication
Toasweetandclevercraftingfriendifevertherewasone,mysisterJenny.Mysupportiveandencouragingfamily,MumandDad,WendyandHaymond.Mycraftwidowerhusband,whoyearsagopreventedmefromgettinga‘real’jobandurgedmetostartupmyownbusiness.Alan,thankyoudarling!
Foreword
BeforeIdigintotheamazingdetailsandinspirationsbehindLisa’sbookIneedtotellyoualittlebitaboutmydearfriendLisa.WemetthroughemailintroductionswhenIlearnedthatshewascarryingmypatternsandfabricsonherbeautifulU-Handbagsite.Ifellinlovewithherblogandcreativevoiceimmediatelyandfeltextremelyhonoredtohavesuchapassionateandtalentedpartner.Isentheraspeedynotewithbestwishesandreceivedanoverwhelminglywarmnoteinreturn.Wequicklyconnectedandfoundtonsofthingsincommoninbothourworkingcreativeworldsandpersonallife.Youknowwhatitfeelslikewhenyou’vemetakindredspirit,anoldsoulwhoclearlyisblessedwithmultiplegiftsandincrediblewarmth?Wellthat’sLisa.IrememberwhenIaskedifshelivedanywhereclosetoLondonandifwecouldmeetinperson.IhadanupcomingbooksigningatLiberty’sandshesaid‘sure,absolutely,noproblem…‘wheninfactshehadtotravelfairlyfarandendedupspendingtheentireafternoonwithmewhenshehadoodlesofbagorderswaitingforherattention.That’sjustthekindofgalsheis.
Youget150%ofLisaallthetime.She’ssupersmartandsupertalentedandthebestpartisshemakesherselfavailabletoeveryonewithhercare,thoughtfulnesswitandcharm.She’sprettydarnfunnytoo,slyandalwayseffervescent.Nowshe’dbethefirstpersontoscoffatmycompliments,becauseshe’sverydowntoearth,butinthissituation,Ihavetheupperhandsoshe’sjustgoingtohavetotakeallthepraise!YouneedtounderstandthesethingsaboutLisabecausethat’showspecialthisbookis.Truetoform,Lisagivessomuchofherself,herknowledge,experience,patienceandlimitlessideasforbagmaking…trulyabibleindeed.Sheleavesnothingtochancebecauseofherpassionforempoweringothersewists.Shewantseveryonetosucceedandbe
passionforempoweringothersewists.Shewantseveryonetosucceedandbeinspired.
Myfavoritethingaboutthisbookisitisastorehouseofinformationthatgivesyouallthetoolstobecompletelycreativeandsuccessfulwithyourownbaginventions.Lisasetsupthechaptersfocusingonspecifictechniqueswithexcellentbehindthescenesinformationthatgiveyouthelowdownontoolsandmaterialsandfollowsthatwithgreatsupportvisualswithherclearstepbystephowtophotos.You’llfindthatLisa’sinstructionsareclearandvisuallyveryveryeasytofollow.Thechaptersconcludewithinspiringimagesofstylishprojectsthatapplythetechniquesfirsthand.Soyougetanamazingsewingeducationcoupledwithbeautifulbagsthatofcourse,youcancustomize!
We’reallsofortunatetogettoknowLisathroughherblog,websiteandnowherfirstbook,whichbyallstandardsisoneofthemostcomprehensivesewingbooksI’veeverread.Thiswillbeoneofyourfavoritegotobooksforideas,inspirationandincrediblehowtoreference.Lisahasgivenusallthetoolstohaveagreatsewingexperiencethatwillgrowandgrow.She’saspecialone!
I’maveryluckygaltoknowherandamsohappytobeabletotellyoualittlebitaboutLisaandherwonderfulbagmakingbook!
HappyHappySewing!
AmyButler
amybutlerdesign.comBelowLisa’sbeautifulGreatGetawayBagmadeupinhomedecorweightfabricfrommyLovecollection.Thefantasticdesignofthebagcreatesendlesspossibilitiesforuseinyoureveryday
life!
Introduction
Ilovesewing.Formeitisanindulgence,myworkandawholelotoffun.InspiredbymyMum,I’vebeensewingsinceIwasalittlegirl.Ihavehappymemoriesofthecool‘70sflaresandflowerypinaforesthatsheusedtosewforhergroovy-lookingkids.I’vebeenunhealthilyobsessedwithfabric,haberdasheryandsewinggadgetseversince.I’mself-taught,IlovetoexperimentandI(usually)laughatmymistakes.
OfallthethingsthatIrunuponmytrustysewingmachine,bagsarethethingthatIenjoymakingthemost.Everygirlneedsabag(orten)inherwardrobeandahandmadebagistheperfectpresenttogiveatanytimeoftheyear.Youcan’tbeatthepleasureyougetfromowningatrulyuniquebagandthesmugfeelingyougetfromtellingyouramazedfriends,‘Oh,Imadeit!’.
Asthisbookwillshowyou,youdon’tneedtobeasewingwhizortopurchaseexotictoolstomakebags.You’lljustneedasewingmachineandsomeeasy-to-obtainnotions.Whilesomeofthebagprojectsinthisbookareaimedattheslightlymoreconfidentbagmaker,you’llfindthatallofthebag-makingtechniquesaresuitableforalllevels.Soevenifyouareabeginner,thisbookwillteachyouhowtoaddyourchoiceofpockets,orinsertatopedgeziptoanexistingbagpattern,forexample.Ihavepurposefullymovedawayfromquick-and-easybagprojectsbecauseIbelievethatwhenyouspendalittlemoretimeincreatingsomethingspecialyouwillcherishtheresultsallthemore.Fearnotthough,readersofmybag-makingblogwillknowthatIalwaystrymybesttowritesimple-to-followinstructionsandtoincludeplentyofhelpfulphotosinallofmyprojectsandtechniques,andthisbookisnodifferent.
Haveyouevereyed-upotherwomen’shandbagsandthoughttoyourself‘niceshape,buttoofewpockets’or‘toosmall’or‘yukkyfabric’andsoon?I
‘niceshape,buttoofewpockets’or‘toosmall’or‘yukkyfabric’andsoon?Ithoughtso!There’snothingwrongwithwantingmorepockets,abiggerbag,orevenafabric-matchedpurseforyourglampartydress.But,asthesayinggoes,ifyouwantajobdoingwellyouhavetodoityourself.Thisbookwillteachyouhowtodojustthat.Itcoversthebasicsfrominterfacingstopatternreading,anditcontainseightscrummybagprojects.Butbestofall(forthefirsttimeinanybagmakingbook)italsocovershowtomakethecomponentpartsofabag,fromdifferentstylesofpocketstomakinghandles,fromvariousbagclosurestoattachinglinings,andmuchmore.
Armedwiththebag-makingtechniquesinsidethisbook,you’llbeabletomaketheeightfabulousbagsfeatured,but,crucially,you’llalsobeabletodesignandconstructyourownbags.Whybelimitedtomass-produced,shop-boughtbags?Makeyourownbagyourwayandloveit!Ifyoufancysteppingupalevelfromhomemadebagstohandcraftedarmcandy,stepthisway.Allthetechniquesyou’llneedarerighthere…
Lovebags;makebags!
Lisa
Visitmeatmybag-makingblogandsayhello:www.u-handbag.typepad.com
BasicEquipment
Ifyoualreadyenjoysewingasahobby,thechancesareyoualreadyhavemostoftheessentialequipmentforbagmaking.Aswithmostthingsyougetwhatyoupayfor,sobuythebestyoucanaffordandyou’llneedtoreplaceitemslessoften.
Cutting
•Rotarycutter–arotarycuttergreatlyincreasesthespeedandaccuracyoffabriccutting.Alsolookoutforrotarybladesharpeners,whichwillsaveyoumoneyonreplacingdullblades.
•Cuttingmat–forusewitharotarycutter.Chooseonethathasbothimperialandmetricgridlines(inchesandcentimetres).Thegridlinesarealsoreallyhelpfulwhendraftingyourownbagpatterns.
•Dressmakingscissors–choosescissorsthatcutallthewaythroughtothetip,areasheavyasiscomfortable(astheweightaidscuttingstability),andareangledwiththehandlesraisedupwards.
•Embroideryscissors–small,fine-pointedscissorsareessentialforprecisionsnipping.
•Seamripper–notjustforunpickingseams,aseamripperisperfectformakingtinyincisionsformagneticsnapsandbuttonholes.Alwaysreplacedullseamripperstopreventyoufromhavingtopushtoohard,whichcouldresultinslipping.
Marking,measuringandpinning
•Disappearingmarker–thisismyfavouritetypeofmarkerbecauseitismoreprecisethanchalk.Makeyourmarksasdesiredandtheywilldisappearwithin48hours.Alwaysdoatestonasmallswatchofyourfabrictocheckfirst.
•Heramarker(orbonefolder)–thisusefulmarkermakesanindentinyourfabricfrompressureonly,soitisperfectifyourfabricisunsuitable
foradisappearingmarker.Itisalsogreatforpre-creasingfabricwhenyouneedtomakefoldsorpleats.
•Tapemeasure–tomakemeasurementconversionseasier,chooseatapemeasurewithbothmetricandimperialmeasurementsprintedonthesameside.
•Sewingpins–Iloveflowerflatheadpinsbecausetheyareprettyandtheypreventsorefingertips,sometimescausedbypushingpinsthroughlotsoflayers.
•Hand-sewingneedle–althoughyouwillbemostlysewingbymachine,therearetimeswhenhandsewingisunavoidable–suchaswhenthesewingmachinecan’treachtheareasyouneedtostitch,orwhensewingonbuttonsforexample.
Bag-makingtools
Noneofthesetoolsareexoticorhardtoobtain.Theyareallsimpletools,whichovertheyearsIhavecollected.Tomakelifeeasierandtogetthebestresultsfromyourbagmaking,tryaddingtheseitemstoyourtoolkit.
TapemakerIuse2.5cm(1in)and5cm(2in)tapemakerstomakebiastapeformyownprettypipingandbinding.SeeMakingYourOwnBiasBinding.
BodkinAbodkinisusedforspeedythreadingofcordorelasticthroughfabrictubesorcasings.Attachthecord/elastictothebodkinandthreadthebodkinthroughyourfabrictube.
FabricglueUsegood-qualityclear-dryingfabricglueforwhensewingisn’tanoption.Goodfabricgluecanbejustaseffectiveasstitching.
MinibulldogclipsUsethesestrongclipstoholdpiecesoffabrictogethertemporarilywhensewingpinsareunsuitable,suchaswhenyourlayersareverythick.
ThreadForeaseofuseandtomakelong-lastingbags,usegoodqualityall-purposepolyesterthread.Itmightbetemptingtobuycheaperthreadbutthisbreaksmoreeasily,whichmakesit
unsuitableforbagmaking.
LoopturnerThissimpletoolisusedforturningfabrictubestherightwayoutforspeedyfabricstrapmaking.
HammerandpliersUseasmallhammerwhenyouareworkingwithrivetsandeyelets(seeEyeletsandRivets).Usetwopairsofpliersforopeningandclosingmetalringsandlinksinpurse
chains.Jewellerypliersareespeciallysuitedtothosewithsmallhands.
TailorsawlAnawlisusefulformakingholesinfabricforrivets,pokingoutcornersinfinestraps(whenturningout),orevencoaxingsmallpartsofyourbagunderneaththesewingmachinefoot(tohelpthefeeddogsgrabthefabric).Twotypesareavailable;onewithasharppoint;theother
withaballpointtip.
HolepunchUseaholepunchtocutneatholesinfabricforeyeletsorpoppersnaps.Thisholepunchhasvarioussizedhole-cutterattachmentsandasmallergrip,whichisgreatforsmall
hands.
TheSewingMachine
Asewingmachineisthemostimportanttoolinmakingbags(andsewingingeneral)butitdoesn’tneedtobeagrandorcostlyaffair.ThereareonlytwofeaturesthatIinsiston:apowerfulmotorandafreearm(seebelow).Theotherslistedhere,whilenotessential,areusefultohave.IfbuyingasewingmachineandyouwantunbiasedreviewsandadvicetherearelotsofgoodresourcesontheInternet.Therearealsonumerousbooksavailableongettingthemostofoutofyourmachine,whicharewellworthinvestigating.
•Powerfulmotor–amustforcopingwithallofthosefabric(andinterfacing)layers.
•Goodstability–whensewingatbreakneckspeedsorworkingwiththicklayersthelastthingyouwantisyourmachinetoshakeandjudder.Chooseamachinethathasagoodweightandawidestablebase.Asktoseeortestthemachineinactionatmaximumspeed.
•Buildquality–howsoliddoesthemachinefeel?Ipreferheavymachines(themoremetalthebetter)becausetheywilllastlonger(withfewermachineservices)andtheywillvibrateless.
•Instructionmanual–Iamasticklerforagoodmanualbecausenomatterhowexperiencedyouaretherewillbeplentyofoccasionswhenyou’llneedtoturntoitforhelp.Don’tbeshyintheshop;asktohaveaflickthroughthemachinemanual.AlsolookontheInternetforsupportandusermanualsforyourmachine.
•Bobbinwindingsystem–differentsewingmachineshavedifferentsystemsforbobbinwinding.Whileintheshop,asktoseehowthebobbiniswoundandcheckyouarehappywiththemethod.
•Dualfeedsystem–thisisafeatureonsomemachinesthatmakesworkingwithseveraland/orthicklayersmucheasierbecausethissystemfeedsthelayersthroughthemachineevenlyandatthesamespeed.Innormalsewingthebottomlayergetsfedthroughthemachinejustbeforethetoplayerandthisresultsinthetoplayercreepingforwards,whichcanbearealpain.
Machinefeet
Therearevariousfeetrequiredfordifferentkindsofstitchesandapplications,soyouneedtothinkaboutthestitchesyouwanttouseandresearchtoseewhichtypesoffeetareappropriateforyourneeds.Ifyouareabouttopurchaseasewingmachine,seewhichfeetaresuppliedwiththemachine,thenaskthedealeriftheywillthrowinsomeextrafeetforfree(andaskaboutanyotherfreebiestoo!).•Standardpresserfoot–thisisthefootthatyouwillmakethemostuseof.Withthisversatilefootyoucansewstraightandzigzagstitch,andthemajorityofthemoredecorativestitchestoo.
•Clearpresserfoot–thisisastandardpresserfoot,butinsteadofbeingmetal,it’smadefromtransparentplastic,whichmakesseeingthingslikenotchesandmarkingsonyourfabricsomucheasier.
•Pipingfoot–ifyou’regoingtosewwithanyamountofpiping,apipingfootisamust,seePipedEdges.
•Zipperfoot–makessewingveryclosetotheedgeofanitemmucheasier,andisalsoessentialforsewingzips.
•Non-stickfoot–thisfootisbrilliantfor‘sticky’fabricsuchasoilcloth,vinylandleather(seeFabricTypes).
•Seamallowanceguide–thisisnotafoot,butisahandymetaledgethatscrewstothebedofthemachineandisveryusefulforprofessional-lookingtopstitching.Setyourdesiredseamallowanceontheguide,thenbutttheedgeofyourworktotheseamallowanceguideandawayyougo.
Machinestitches
I’vebeenmakingbagsforoversixyearsandinthattimeI’veonlyeverusedtwomachinestitches.
StraightstitchThisisbasicallytheonlystitchIeverreallyuse.
ZigzagstitchEverynowandagainIusezigzagtostitchovertherawedgesoffabrictopreventitfromfraying(TheVersatileBookBag,step2).
AnatomyofaBag
Allbagdesignsvaryinsize,shapeandpurpose,butthebagpartnamesarealwaysthesame,andthetechniquesusedtocreatethevariouspartswillbesimilaracrossdifferentbagdesignstoo.Bagscanbeassimpleorasfeature-packedasyouwantthemtobe.Havefunworkingthroughthetechniquesandprojectsinthisbookandyou’llsoongaintheconfidencetodesignandmakeyourowngorgeousarm-candy.
Firstimpressions
•Closure–whenitcomestoclosurestherearesomanyoptionsthatthereisawholechapterofthisbookdevotedtothem–seeClosures.Yourbagcanbeclosedwithseveraldifferenttypesofzipinsertions,amagneticorinvisiblemagneticsnaporatwistlock.Aflapsuchasthisonemayalsosecurethebagclosed,orbeadditionaltoaziporsnapclosure.Mixandmatchclosuresformaximumversatilityandfunctionality.
•Gusset–thedesignofthegussetoftendeterminesthecapacityofyourbag,aswellasitssilhouette.Gussetscanbestraight,havepleatsorbellows,orevenbeadjustableusingsnapsorties(seeGussets).
•Strap/handle–therearesomanywaystocarryyourbagoffinstylethatthereisawholechaptercoveringstrapsandhandles–seeHandlesandStraps.Choosehandlesthatmatchthelookandusabilityofyourbag.Makeyourownoruseconvenientready-madehandles(seeReady-MadeHandles).
•Strapattachment–considerhowthestraporhandleisattachedtoyourbag.Therearenumerousoptions,fromstitchingthestrapdirectlyontothebag,tousingfabrichandleloopswithmetalrings(seeOpen-EndStrapsandClosed-EndStraps),essentialifmakinganadjustableslidingstrap.Somestrapscanbeattachedpermanentlyorotherscanbemadewithtriggerhookstoallowthemtobedetached,eithertotransformthebagintoaclutch,ortoswapthehandleforadifferentonetogiveanewlook.
Justaroundthecorner
•Bagbottom–mostbagsbeyondthesimplestbookbagwillhavesomekindofbottom.Somewillhaveasoftunstructuredbottom,whileothersneedarigid,structuredkind.Ifit’sthelatter,youmayalsowanttoaddprotectivebagfeet(seeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step13).Therightbottomcanmakeallthedifferencetohowabagwillsitonasurfaceandhowitlookswhenfull.
•Bagback–remembertogivethebackofyourbagconsiderationtoo;ifit’srubbingagainstyourbodyasyoucarryit,thenitneedstobestreamlinedandfreeofanythingsuchashardwareortrimmingsthatwillcatchonyourclothesorbedamagedthemselves.Howeveritcanalsotheperfectplaceforasecret,secureandeasy-accessslimlinepocket,maybeflushandzippered(seeFlushZipPocket).
What’sinsidecounts
•Theinsideofthebag–thisisequallyimportantastheoutsideandneedstobegivenjustasmuchcareandattention.Theliningisachancetoaddlotsofdesignfeatures,fromfabricchoice(seeChoosingFabrics)totheuseofpocketsanddividersformoreorganization(seeFlushZipPocketandZipPartitionPocket).Joiningthebagexteriortotheliningisafundamentalpartofthebagconstructionprocess,andtherearetwodifferentmethodstotry,dependingonthedesignofyourbag(seeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethodandInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod).
1:GettingStartedIfyou’reanythinglikemeyou’reprobablykeentogetstuckinwiththescissorsandsewingmachine,andmightbetooimpatienttoreadthroughthischapter.Itotallyunderstand,butevenaquickreadthroughthebasicsexplainedherecouldmakeallthedifferencebetweenabagthatyouwillloveandabagthatwillendupatthebackofacupboard.Thischapterrunsthroughhowtousethepatternsinthebook,givingadviceonreadingpatternsandunderstandingsewinginstructions,withsomehelpfulfabricpreparationandcuttingtips.Thenattheendofthischapteryou’llfindinformationonhowyoucanmodifythesizeofbagpatterns,whichisoneofthefirststepstomakingbagsthewayyouwantthem.
UsingPatterns
Thepatterns,foundatthebackofthebook,areallfull-size,whichmeansthereisnoneedtohuntaroundtheneighbourhoodforaphotocopier.Someofthebagprojectshavetwoormorepatternpieces(whichareindicatedonthepatternpieces),othershavejustonepatternpieceandsomeprojectssimplyuserectanglesgivenasmeasurementswithintheprojectinstructions.
1Getalargesheetofsuitablepaper.Iusuallyusepaletissuepaper,butyoucanalsousetracingpaper,greaseproofpaperordressmakingpaper.Ironthepaperandthepatternsheetonalowsetting.
2Laythepaperoveryourchosenpatternpieceand,usingpinsorstickytape,securethepapertothepatternsothatitcan’tmovearound.
3Takeasoftleadedpencil(youdon’twanttoripholesinyourpaperwithahardpencil)andtracearoundyourpatternshape.Alsotracethe
variouspatternmarkings,notchesanddartsifappropriate(seeUnderstandingPatterns).SeeFiga.
FigaUseasoftleadedpenciltotracethepatternsandpatternmarkingstogetniceeasy-to-seeoutlines,andyou’llavoidrippingthetracingpaper.
4Layoutyourtracedpatternpiecesontoyourfabric.Alignyourpatternwiththefabric’sstraightgrain(seegrainlines).Ifthepatternpieceinstructsyoutoplaceitonafold,foldyourfabricasshowninFigb.Payattentiontothedirectionofyourpattern–arethepatternpiecestherightwayup?Accordingly,isthepatternonyourfabricalsotherightwayup?
5Pinyourpatternpiecestoyourfabricandcutthefabricaroundthepatternshapes.SeeFigc.Alternatively,youcanpinyourpatternstoyourfabricandthentracearoundtheoutlineofyourpatternpieceswithdisappearingmarkerorchalktogetanoutlineforfabriccutting.However,beforeyoudoanycutting,makesureyourefertoFabricCuttingTips.
6Transferanypatternmarkings,notchesordartsfromthepatternpiecetoyourfabricpiecesusingchalkordisappearingmarker.SeeFigd.
FigbToplaceapatternpieceonafold,foldthefabricwrongsidestogetherandpositionthefoldlineofthepatternontothefoldededgeofthefabric.
FigcIprefertopinandcutaroundthepatternpiecesbecauseit’sfasterthantracingaroundthepatternandthencutting.
FigdWhilethepatternisstillpinnedtothefabric,transferthevariouspatternmarkingsontothefabric.
Labelsnob…Labelyourpatternpiecesbeforeandafterusingthem;foldthemcarefully,andstoreinanenvelope.Alsostoreintheenvelopeanynotesyoumakeduringbagconstruction,readyfornexttime.
UnderstandingPatterns
Besidesthepatternshape,thereisavarietyofotherinformationonthepatternpieces.Thisbriefguidewillhelpyouunderstandwhatthetermsmeanandwhattheyarefor.
Languageskills…You’llquicklybecomefamiliarwithsewingtermsandabbreviations.Keepreferringbacktothesepagesuntilyoubecomeconfident.
•Seamallowance–thisisthedistancebetweentheedgeofthefabricpiece(s)andthesewingmachineneedle.So,ifapatternindicatesthattheseamallowanceis1cm(3⁄8in),youneedtosewyourstitches1cm(3⁄8in)infromtheedgeofthefabric.Apatternshouldalwaysstatetheseamallowancesizeandwhetherornotithasbeenincludedinthepattern.
•Grainlines–thesearethetwopointedarrowsthathelpyoutoalignthepatternpiecewiththestraightgrainofthefabric.Thetoparrowpointstothetopedgeofthefabricandthebottomarrowpointstothebottomedgeofthefabric.Thestraightgrainofthefabricrunsparalleltotheselvedge(thenon-frayingedgeofthefabric,whichoftenhasthecompanyandfabricnameprintedonit).
•Foldlines–whenapatternpiecesays‘placeonfold’youneedtofoldyourfabricwrongsidestogetherandplacetheappropriateedgeofthepatternpieceontothefabricfold.Inthisway,theresultingcutfabricpiecewillbedoublethesize;amirrorimagejoinedatthefabricfold.
•Notches–thesearethesmallverticallinesthatappearonthepatternpieceoutline.Theseusefulmarkingshelpyoutomatchupseamsandfabricedgesaccurately.Patternpiecesthatneedjoiningupwillhavecorrespondingnotches.Transferpatternnotchestoyourfabricpiecesusingadisappearingmarkerormakesmallnickswithscissors.
•Darts–theseappearaslargetriangleshapesthatpointintothepatternfromthepatternoutline.Whenfabriccutting,Iusuallycutthesedarttrianglesout.SeeDarts.
•Othermarkings–magneticsnap/twistlock/baghandlehook/zippocketetc.markingsneedtobetracedontoyourpatterns,andthentransferredtoyourfabricpieces.
GlossaryoftermsandabbreviationsInadditiontothepatterns,youwillalsoneedtobeabletofollowthewritteninstructionsfor
Inadditiontothepatterns,youwillalsoneedtobeabletofollowthewritteninstructionsforeachtechniqueorproject.Thefollowingtermsareusedthroughoutthisbookandinothercommercialpatterns.
Baglining/bagexterior–mostbagshavealiningandanexterior,whichessentiallymeansthatmostbagsconsistoftwobags(theinsidebagandtheoutsidebag).Eachbagismadeseparatelybeforebeingjoinedtogethertowardstheendofconstruction.InthisbookIrefertotheinsidebagasthe‘liningbag’andtheoutsidebagasthe‘exteriorbag’.Clip–clippingyourseamallowancehelpsseamslieflatwhenyouturnyourprojectrightsideoutbyreducingbulkintheseams(especiallycurvedseams).ForinwardcurvescutsmallV-shapespointingtowardsthestitchingalongtheseamallowanceclose,butnottooclose,tothestitching.Foroutwardcurvesmakesmallscissornickspointingtowardsthestitching(again,nottooclosetothestitching).Clipcorners–snippingofftheseamallowancereducesbulkintheseamsofstraightcornersandmakesforsmootherandsharpercornersonyourbagwhenitisturnedrightsideout.Thisresultsinneaterrectangularpocketsorfabricstraps,forexample.Beforeturningrightsideout,trimoffthecornertipsofyourworkclose,butnottooclose,tothestitching.Rawedges–referstothecut,unstitchedandunfinishededgesoffabric.Sewinginaboxformation–particularlyusefulforstitchingstrapendsdownsecurelyontoyourwork.Stitchtheiteminaboxshapeforextrastrengthanddurability.Topstitching–alineofstitchesthatrunscloseandparalleltoanedgeontherightsideofyourwork.Thedistancebetweenthestitchesandtheedgewillvaryaccordingtoyourpreferenceortheinstructionsintheproject.Topstitchingisveryusefulinthatitoftenservesbothdecorativeandreinforcingfunctions.Turningrightsideout(sometimesabbreviated–TRSO)–simplymeansthatyouneedtoturnyour(insideout)worktherightwayout.Turningwrongsideoutmeansthereverseoftheabove.WS–wrongside–thereverseorbackofyourworkorfabric.WST–wrongsidestogether–bringtwopiecesoffabrictogethersothatthewrongsidesofthefabricsaretouchingeachother.WSO–wrongsideout–thewrongsideofyourwork/fabricisfacingoutwards.WSU–wrongsideup–thewrongsideofyourwork/fabricisfacingupwards.RS–rightside–thegoodorthefrontsideofyourfabricorwork.RST–asWST,butwiththerightside.RSO–asWSO,butwiththerightside.RSU–asWSU,butwiththerightside.
FabricPreparationandCutting
There’snothinglikegrabbingafewhoursandmakingastartonanewsewingproject.Butbeforeyourushinwithyourscissorsit’sworthtakingalittletimeandcaretoprepareandcutyourfabricsinamethodicalway.Thefollowingtipsandhintswillhelpyouspeedupthecuttingprocessandendupwithamoreprofessional-lookingbag.
Fabricpreparationtips
•Ifyouwanttowashyourbagsyouwillneedtopre-washyourfabrictopreventthefabricfromshrinkingduringwashing.Putyourfabricinameshbagtohelppreventtherawedgesfrayinginthewashingmachine.(Idon’tpre-washmyfabricsbecauseIdon’tthinkit’sagoodideatowashbags.Ipreferto‘spotwash’bydabbingtheaffectedareawithamoistclothandamilddetergent.)
•Alwaysironyourfabricsthoroughlybeforecutting.SeeFiga.
Sprayaway…Ratherthanwashingbags,tryusingfabricprotectorspraysonyourfabricstohelprepeldirtandblockstains.Alwaysreadtheinstructionsandtestfirst.
FigaIknowit’sboring,butironingisanecessaryactivityinallsewingprojects.Alwaysironyourfabricsthoroughlybeforepatterncutting.
Fabriccuttingtips
•Alwayscutonaflatsurfaceandclearthedecksbeforeyougetcutting.•Speedthingsupbyironingfusibleinterfacing(ifusing)tothewrongsideoffabricsbeforecuttingout,seeFigb.SeealsoInterfacingandInterlining.
•Alwaysusesharpscissorsorasharprotarycutterforcuttingoutyourfabrics.Thiswillensurethatyougetcleanandaccuratecutseverytime.Ifyouareusingarotarycutterensurethatyoucutonarotarycuttingmat.SeeFigc.
•Followthegrainlinesonyourpatternstoensurethatfabricdesignsdon’tappearwonky.
•Trylayingthefabricsandinterliningpiecescarefullyontopofeachotherandthenlayingthepatternpiecesonthetopbeforepinningalllayersand
cutting.SeeFigd.However,ifyourstackeduplayersaretootallyouwillendupwithveryscruffyedgesandyourscissorswon’tbehappyathavingtocutthroughallofthoselayers.Ifthisisthecase,trylayeringyourliningandexteriorfabricstogetherandcutting,andthenlayeryourinterliningstogetherandcutting.
•Ifusingfabricswithadirectionalpatternandyouarelayeringyourfabricsbeforecutting(assuggestedabove)besuretocheckthatyourfabricsaretherightwayup.Youdon’twanttoendupwithfabricpatternpieceswithdesignsthatareupsidedown.
FigbWhereverpossibleironfusibleinterfacing(ifusing)ontotheWSoffabricsbeforepatterncutting.Thissavesthebotherofhavingtomatchupandironaninterfacingpatternpiecetothe
fabricpatternpiece.
FigcArotarycuttermakescuttingstraightedgessomuchfasterandneater.Ifyouhaveasteadyhand,arotarycutterisgreatforcurvededgestoo.Alwaysusearotarycuttingmat–theynotonly
protectyourtable,theyalsohelpkeepthebladesharperforlonger.
FigdAnotherpatterncuttingtime-savingtrickistostackandpinthefabricandinterfacingpiecesontopofeachotherbeforecutting.
ModifyingPatterns
Ifyouareasewing‘newbie’thethoughtofdeviatingfromapatternmayseemlikeacrazythingtodo,butit’sactuallyveryeasytomakepatternmodificationstosuityou(oryouroutfit!).Intheirsimplestform,bagsareafront,abackandacoupleofhandles.Butyoucanjazzupevenabasicbagbychangingitssize,addingapocket,insertingaziporasnap,changingthehandlesoraddingacoupleofdartsforvolume,forexample.Belowyouwillfindguidanceonchangingthesizeofthebagasthefirststeptomodifyingapattern,buttherestofthisbookwillshowyouhowtochangeeverythingelse–soreadon.Becausebagmakingislesscomplicatedthandressmakingyou’llfindthatit’sfarmoreforgivingifyouhaven’tquitegotthemeasurements100percentright.Infact,halfthefunofbagmakingisthatyoucanoftenmakeitupasyougoalong.Idoitallthetime!
Increasingthesize
•Firstdecidehowmuchlargeryouwouldlikeyourfinishedbagtobe.Takethatmeasurement,divideitinhalfandaddthathalvedmeasurementallaroundtheedgeofthebagpatternpiece(s).Say,forexample,youwantyourfinishedbagtobe10cm(4in)largeroverall;youwouldadda5cm(2in)marginallaroundtheoutsideofthebagpatternpiece(s).Alwaysremembertoaddonyourseamallowanceifyouhaven’talready.
•NBIfyourpatternpieceismarkedwitha‘placeonfold’instructionyouwillneedtoaddyourmarginaroundallpatternedgesexcepttheedgewhereyouareinstructedto‘placeonfold’.
Decreasingthesize
•Firstdecidehowmuchsmalleryouwouldlikeyourfinishedbagtobe.Takethatmeasurement,divideitinhalfandsubtractthathalvedmeasurementfromallaroundtheedgeofthebagpatternpiece(s).Say,forexample,youwantyourfinishedbagtobe10cm(4in)smalleroverall;youwouldsubtracta5cm(2in)marginfromallaroundtheinsideofthebagpatternpiece(s),rememberingtoincludeyourseamallowanceifyouhaven’talready.
•NBIfyourpatternpieceismarkedwitha‘placeonfold’instructionyouwillneedtosubtractyourmarginfromaroundallpatternedgesexcepttheedgewhereyouareinstructedto‘placeonfold’.
Makeit…TheVersatileBookBagHerewehavethreedifferentversionsofabasicbookbagshape.Ibetyoucan’tstopatone!Masterthesesimpletotesandwiththehelpofthisbookyou’llsoonbeaddingyourowncoolfeatureslikezippockets,dartsandfancyfasteners.
EasyasPiePrettyfabricsreallyliftthebasicdesignofthisbag.
Flat-BottomedGirlIt’squickandeasytopopaflatbottomintoabag,andyourbagwilllookthatbitmoreprofessional.
Peek-a-BooPleatsInsertabrightfabricintothepleattomakeeye-catchingpeek-a-boopleats.
Needtoknow
Asthesebagsareunlinedyoumightprefertousefabricsthatarethesamecolouronbothsides(self-coloured)suchascanvasorlinen.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Therearenopatternsforthesebagsasallyouneedarefabricrectangles.Fabricmeasurementsaregivenintheinstructions.
EasyasPie&Flat-bottomedgirl
Thesuperhandyeasy-as-pietotebagisaboutasbasicascanbebutthat’snoreasonforitnottolookpretty.Whipupafewinunderanhourforemergencypresents.Jazzthemupbyplayingwithyourfabricchoices,useposhhandles,or
presents.Jazzthemupbyplayingwithyourfabricchoices,useposhhandles,ortryaddingafabricflower.Ourflat-bottomedgirlisalmostthesameastheEasyasPiebagexceptithasaflatbottom.Aflatbottomissoeasytoinsert,givesthebagsome3Dshape,andhelpspreventyourstufffromgettingsquashedatthebottomofyourbag.YouwillneedForeachbag
•1pieceofcanvasorlinenfabricforexterior,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•1pieceofcontrastingmedium-weightfabricforbottompanelandstraps,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Disappearingmarker
PreparationCutthefabricpiecesasfollows:
•Mainbodypanelpattern=81x35cm(32x133⁄4in)–cut:•1xexteriorfabric•Bottompanelpattern=35cm(133⁄4in)square–cut:•1xcontrastfabric
Alsocut:
•2stripsofcontrastfabric,68x10cm(263⁄4x4in),forthebagstraps
AssembleEasyasPie
1Stitchthebottompaneltotheexteriormainbodypanel–takethebottompanelWSU,foldinbothshortedges1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefolds.LaythebottompanelRSUontothecentreoftheRSofthemainbodypanelandmatchupthesideedges.Checkthattheshortedgesofthebottompanelarelyingatrightanglestothesideedgesand
pin.Stitchthebottompaneltothemainbodypanelbytopstitchingalong
theshortedgesofthebottompanel.SeeFiga.
FigaEnsurethattheshortedgesofthebottompanelareniceandstraightonthemainpanel;youdon’twantthebottompaneltolookwonkyonyourfinishedbag.
2Stitchthelongrawedges–stitchalongbothlongrawedgeswithazigzagstitchthat’swideinwidthandshortinlengthtopreventtherawedgesfromfraying.
3Stitchthebag–foldthebaginhalfwidthwaysRST.Matchalledges,pinandstitchalongthesideedgesofthebag.Ironthebag.
4Foldandstitchthetopedgeband–withthebagstillWSO,folddowntherawtopedge1.5cm(1⁄2in)totheWSofthebagandironthefold.Folddownanother2cm(3⁄4in)inthesameway,ironandpin.
Topstitchallaroundthetopandbottomedgesofthebandensuringyoustitchthoughalllayers3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedges.SeeFigb.TurnthebagRSOandiron.
FigbTopstitchallaroundthebottomandtopedgeofthebagband.
5Makeupthestrapsandstitchthemtothebag–takethebagstrapfabricpiecesandfollowthestepsinClosed-EndStrapstomaketwoclosed-endstraps.OntheRSofthebag,measureandmark8cm(31⁄8in)infrombothsideseamsand2.5cm(1in)downfromthetopedge.Placetheouterbottomcornerofoneofthestrapendsontooneofthemarksyouhavejustmade.Pinthestrapendinpositionandstitchtothebaginaboxformationforstrength(seetip).SeeFigc.Repeatwiththeotherstrapendandthenwiththeotherbagstrap.
FigcMeasureandmarkthestrapendpositiononthebag,andpinandstitchthestrapinplacethroughallbaglayers.
Boxclever…Tosewasmart-lookingboxremembertoleavetheneedleinthedownpositionwhenyoureachtheendofaline.Thatwayyoucanturnaperfect90-degreeanglebypivotingyourworkaroundtheneedle.
Happyhandles…Insteadofmakingfabricstrapsandsewingthemtothebag,youcouldbuyready-madehandlesandrivetthemon.Ifrivetinghandlestothebag,reinforcethehandleareawithfusibleinterfacing(seeInterfacingandInterlining).
AssembleFlat-BottomedGirl
1Cutthefabricandstitchthebagtogether–cutthepatternpiecesexactlyaslistedfortheEasyasPiebagandstitchtogetherfollowingsteps1–4ofthatbag(previouspageandabove).
2Insertaflatbottomintothebag–withthebagWSO,followsteps2–4ofFlatBottomstoinsertaflatbottom.Fromthetipofthetrianglemeasureandmark2.5cm(1in)ontheseamforthebagbottomdepth.
3Makeandapplythebagstraps–followingstep5oftheEasyasPiebag(above).
Peek-a-BooPleats
Thisversionoftheversatilebookbaghasanattractivebuteasy-to-insertpleatdownthecentreofthebag.Asabonus,insertacolourfulstripoffabricinsidethepleattomakeprettypeek-a-boopleats.Youwillneed
•1pieceofcanvasorlinenfabricforexterior,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•1pieceofcontrastingmedium-weightfabricforinsertandstraps,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Disappearingmarker
PreparationCutthefabricpiecesasfollows:
•Mainbodypanelpattern=80x50cm(311⁄2x191⁄2in)–cut:•1xexteriorfabric
Alsocut:
•1pieceofcontrastfabric,80x19cm(311⁄2x71⁄2in),forthepleatinsertpanel
•2stripsofcontrastfabric,68.5x10cm(27x4in),forthebagstraps
Assemblethebag
1Stitchthepleatinsertpaneltothemainbodypanel–takethepleatinsertpanelWSU,foldinbothlongedges1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefolds.LaythepleatinsertpanelRSUdownthecentreoftheRSofthemainbodypanelandmatchuptherawshortedges.Pinandstitchthepleatinsertpaneltothemainbodypanelbytopstitchingalongbothlongedgesofthepleatinsertpanel3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.SeeFigd1.Foldthebagalongthelongedgesofthepleatinsert,ironthefoldsandtopstitchthefoldsinplace3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedgeonthemainbodyfabricside.SeeFigd2.Stitchalongbothshortedgesofthemainbodypanelwithazigzagstitchthat’swideinwidthandshortinlengthtopreventtherawedgesfromfraying.
Figd1Checkthatthepleatinsertpanelisperfectlycentraldowntheentirelengthofthemainbodypanel.
Figd2Topstitchingthepleatedgeinthiswaywillensurethepleatsremainpermanentlyfoldedalongthesides.
2Foldandstitchthepleatintothebag–atthetopedgeofthebagfindthecentreofthepleatinsertpanelandmark.Bringbothsideedgesofthepleatinsertintothecentremark,foldandironinplace.Stitchthepleatsinplacealongthetopedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.OntheRSofthebagmeasureandmark2.5cm(1in)downfromthepleattopedge.Stitcha5mm(3⁄16in)lineofzigzagstitches(inforwardandreverse)toanchorthepleatsonthefrontofthebag.SeeFige.Repeatfortheotherside.
FigeStitchadenselineofzigzagstitchestoanchorthepleats.Tryusingcontrastingthreadforaddedinterest.
3Stitchthebag–followingsteps2–3oftheEasyasPiebag.
4Foldandstitchthetopedgeband–withthebagstillWSOfolddowntherawtopedgeofthebag2cm(3⁄4in)totheWSandironthefold.Topstitchallaroundthetopandbottomedgeofthebagband3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedges.TurnthebagRSOandiron.
5Makeandapplythebagstraps–followingstep5oftheEasyasPiebag.
RightFormaximumeffectuseaninsertfabricthatcontrastswiththemainfabricforreal‘pop’!
2:ChoosingFabricsFabriciscolour,texture,pictureandpatternjustwaitingtobemixedup,cutupandstitchedupintosomethingamazing.Thefirstpartofthischapterexploresdifferenttypesoffabricssuitableforbagmaking,thensuggestsfabricsources,andfinallylooksatwaysofworkingwithcolour,patternandtexture.Thesecondpartofthechaptertalksaboutinterfacingandinterlining(alsoknownasstabilizer).Mysteriousandboringinequalmeasure,interfacing/interliningisnonethelessanessentialcomponentinbagmaking.We’lllookatvarietiesofinterfacingandinterliningsandtheirapplications,butfirstherearesomeofmytried-and-testedfabricandinterfacingcombinationsforuseincommonlymadebagtypes.
AboveThereissomethingsogorgeouslyaddictiveaboutfabric.Collectingitisasmuchfunassewingwithit.Seeingmyownfabricstashneatlystackedincolourfulbundlesgivesmeawarm
happyfeelinginside!
BagTypeandDescription
BagFabricSuggestions Interfacing/Interlining
Messengerbag:softstructure,midtolargesizeshoulderbag.
Denim,linen,canvas,corduroy,upholstery/homedecweightfabricswithmid-weightcottonlining.
Wovenfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsandsew-infleece/waddinginbetweenliningandexterior.
Firmboxyclutchormediumlargeboxybag:firmandcanstandupright.
Quilt-weightcotton,satinorsilk,fauxorrealsuedeorleatherwithsilkorsatinlining.
Mediumfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsthenultra-firminterfacingfusedtoexteriorfabricwithfleecesewninbetweentheliningandexterior.
Travelbag/largehold-allorpaddedlaptopbag:boxyandupright.
Upholstery/homedecweightcanvas,denim,heavywool,corduroy,heavyvelvetwithquilt-weightcottonlining.
Firmfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorparts,fleeceandultra-firmsew-ininterlininginbetweenliningandexterior.
Travelbagorlargehold-all:softandslouchy.
Upholstery/homedecweightcanvas,corduroy,denim,heavywool,heavyvelvetwithquilt-weightcottonlining.
Wovenfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsandfleecesewninbetweenliningandexterior.
Smallorlargehoboshoulder/acrossthe
Quilt-weightcotton,heavysatin,upholstery/homedec Wovenfusible
interfacingonall
shoulder/acrossthebodybag:softand
unstructured.
upholstery/homedecweightcanvas,denim,heavywool,heavyvelvetwithquilt-weightcottonlining.
interfacingonallexteriorpartsandfleecesewninbetweenliningandexterior.
Bi/trifoldwallet:firmandsemi-rigid.
Quilt-weightcotton,linen,canvas,denimwithquilt-weightcottonlining.
Wovenfusibleinterfacingandultra-firmfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorparts,andheavysew-ininterlininginbetweenliningandexterior.
Jewellery/artist’s/crafttool/make-upbrushroll:soft,unstructuredandpadded.
Quilt-weightcotton,linen,canvas,heavysatinwithsatin/quilt-weightcottonlining.
Mediumfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsandfleecesewninbetweentheliningandexterior.
Zipperedwristletpurse,pencilcase:soft,unstructuredandlightlypadded.
Quilt-weightcotton,heavysatin,upholstery/homedecweight,denim,heavywool,heavyvelvetwithquilt-weightcottonlining.
Wovenfusibleinterfacingonallexteriorpartsandheavysew-ininterlininginbetweenliningandexterior.
Feelinggood…Ifyou’renotfamiliarwithsomeofthefabrictypesandweightsmentionedabove,popalongtoafabricshopandhaveagoodseeandfeelforyourself.Alternatively,manycompaniesonlinesupplysamplesfreeorforasmallcharge.It’sworthgettingtoknowhowfabricsfeelandhandle.
FabricTypes
Broadlyspeaking,fabricfallsintotwomaincategories:dressweight(alsoknownasfashionweight)andupholstery/curtainfabric(alsoknownashomedecweight).Asthenamessuggest,dressweightfabricislighterweightandmoresuitedtomakingclothes.Upholsteryfabricontheotherhandisheavier,moredurable,andthereforemoresuitableforhighwearandtearapplicationssuchassofacoversandcurtains.Asbagmakerswecanusebothdressandheavyweightfabricstosuitthebagthatwearemaking.Asageneralrule,dressweightfabricisbettersuitedtobagliningsandupholsteryweightfabricisbetterforbagexteriors,However,thatisonlyalooseruleandtherearecleverinterfacingtricksthatyoucanapplytoyourfabricchoicestooverridethatrule(seeInterfacingandInterlining).Meanwhile,herearesomefabricsuggestionsthatworkatreatforbagmaking.
Oilcloth/laminatedclothUsuallyusedfortheexteriorofbags,thisvinyl-coatedfabriccomesinfantasticprintsandhasatoughwaterproofsurface,makingitperfectforswimbags,travelbags
andwashbags.Thevinylhasatendencytosticktothebedofyoursewingmachinemakingsewingwithitquiteawkward(seetip).
Oilclothknow-how…Ifyouplantosewoilclothregularly,itisworthinvestinginnon-sticksewingmachinefoot(seeMachineFeet).Also,besuretouseajeansneedleandonlypinintheseamallowanceotherwiseyou’ll‘scar’theclothwithunsightlypinholes.
LinenThisversatile,hardwearingandnaturalfabricisavailableinbothdressandhomedecweight.Thelinenthatbagmakersliketouseisthenaturalbiscuit-colouredhomedecweightfabric.Thecolouroftheundyedclothwithitsattractiveirregularweavemakesitagreatfoilfor
embroideryand/orpatternedfabrics.
Cotton/quiltfabricThistypeoffabricisusedbothintheliningandtheexteriorofbags.Cottonisavailableinmanydifferentweights,butforbagmakingtrytousemid-weightcottonandup.
Quiltingfabricisusuallymadefromcottonandcomesinafantasticarrayofcolourful,beautifulandfunprints.Youcanusecottonforalmostanytypeofbag.
Canvas/denimUsuallyusedfortheexteriorofbags,canvasisavailableindifferentweights.Choosetheheaviestweightthatyoursewingmachinecancopewith.Canvasisstrongandithasruggedgoodlooks.Besuretouseajeansneedlewhensewingwithcanvasanddenim.Ithinkcanvaslooksbestonlargerbagssuchasshoppers,messengerbags,travelbagsandbeach
bags.
Wool/suitingfabricUsuallyusedfortheexteriorofbags,woolisfabulousforbagmaking.Woolisavailableindifferentweights,patternsandtextures.Itsincredibledepthofcolouranditsyummy
texturemakewoolaluxuriousfabrictoworkwithanduse.Woolishardwearing,butforbagmakingitusuallyrequiresinterfacingofsomekind.Woolhasamoreopenweavesoastrongdressmakingneedleissufficient.Tryusingwoolsforhandbags,clutchesandmessengerbags.
VelvetThisisaluxuryfabricthathasfabulousdepthofcolourandastrokeabletexture.Thenicestvelvetismadefromcotton.Velvetisavailableindifferentweights–choosetheheaviest
weightthatyoursewingmachinecancopewith.Velvetfrayseasilysoit’swisetosewwithawiderseamallowance.Ifyourvelvetisquitethickoryouwillbesewingthroughafewlayersuseajeansneedle.Tryusingvelvetforhandbags,clutchesandspecialoccasionbags.Corduroyissimilarto
velvetinitsusesandmaterialqualities.
Faux/realsuedeUsuallyusedfortheexteriorofbags,fauxsuedeissimilarinnaturetovelvet.Realsuedeisdenseandhardertosewthroughthanwovenfauxsuede.Ifyoufeelthatsuedeistoofragileforyourbagsitcanbestrengthenedwithinterfacing.Besuretousealeatherneedleforsewingsuede.Tryusingrealsuedeforsmallerspecialoccasionbagsandsmallhandbags.
Realandfauxleatherissimilarinitsusestosuedebuthasashinysurface,oftenrequiringanon-sticksewingmachinefoot(seeMachineFeet).
Silk/satinUsedbothastheexteriororlining,silksandsatinsareluxuryfabricsthathavebeautifullooks,textureandmovement.Silklooksgorgeouspleatedorgathered.Trytosticktoheavierweightsilk/satinbecauseit’smoredurableandeasiertosewwith,whilefinesilkandsatinare
veryslippery.Naturaldupionsilkissturdy,hasalovelysoft-sheenandaninterestingtexturefromthesmallslubsinthefabric.Shimmerysatinfabricmakesaglamorouslininginaneveningbag.Useafinesewingmachineneedlewhensewingwithsilkorsatin.Tryusingsilkorsatinforany
specialoccasionbagsandpurses.
WorkingwithColourandPattern
Mostbagsrequireatleasttwodifferentfabrics,onefortheexteriorandoneforthelining.Buthowdoyoueffectivelycombinethetwo(ormore)fabrics?Whenitcomestosew-it-yourselfthereisnorightorwrong,onlywhatyoulikeanddon’tlike.
Playingwithcolour
Forthoseofyouwhoarenewtosewinganddon’tknowwheretostartwhenit
Forthoseofyouwhoarenewtosewinganddon’tknowwheretostartwhenitcomestocolour,herearemybeginner-levelsuggestionsforcombiningyourfabrics.
GocomplementaryIadmitIliketoerronthebrighterandloudersideofthingssoIlovenothingmorethanpickingtwocoloursthatcomplementeachother.Traditionalcomplementarycolourduos(huesthatsitoppositeeachotheronthecolourwheel)includeblueandyellow,redand
blue,blueandpink,andturquoiseandorange.Ifyouaren’tsurewhatcolourscomplementeachotherlookforacolourwheelontheInternetforreference.
GotonalAneasywaytogroupcoloursistopicklighterordarkershadesofyourfocuscolour.Say,forexample,yourbagexteriorfabrichasaredrosepattern;yourliningfabriccouldhave
pinktones.
Gomonochrome…withatwistBlackandwhiteisaclassiccolourcombination,whichalwayslooksfabulous.Tryaddingathirdflashofcoloursuchasred,electricblueorlimetothe
monochromepalatetoaddanunexpectedzingtoyourbag.
UsingTextureCombiningdifferenttexturesinabagcanhavejustasmuchimpactasusingdifferentcolours.Trypairingdissimilartexturedfabricswitheachother.Theresultswillnotonlylookgreat,theywillfeellovelytoo.Forexample:
Trypairingparingavelvet,wool,corduroyorsuedebagexteriorwithashimmerysatinlining.Tryappliquéingfluffyfeltpatchesontolinen,denimorcanvas.Tryplaitingstripsofsilktomakebaghandlesforarealorfauxleatherorsuedebag.Tryaddingsilkorsatinpipingtoacottonorlinenbag.
Playingwithpattern
Patternedfabricscanbethehardesttoknowhowtocombine.Thereisnorightorwrong–gowithwhateveryoulike,butherearesomequickideastotry.
ClashingpatternsProvidedthecolours‘go’witheachotheryoucanhavefunclashingdifferentpatternedfabricstogether.Thisfloralprintworkswellwiththisstripeasthecoloursofthetwo
fabricstieinwitheachother.
SizingpatternsDon’tbeafraidtousefabricswithlarge-scalepatterns.Youdon’talwaysneedtohavethewholepartofapatternshowingonyourbag.Trycroppingoffaninterestingsectionofalargepatterntomakesmallersizedbagsoruseitforatrimonalargerbagforadifferentlook.
MatchingpatternsIfyou’dlikebothofyourexteriorandliningfabricstobepatterned,tryputtingthesmallerpatternedfabricontheinsideofyourbag.Thesmallerpatterninsidethebagwillbe
easierontheeyewhenyourbagisfullofyourbitsandbobs.
SourcingfabricsforbagmakingTherearelotsofwaystogetyourmittsonbag-makingfabricandnotallofthemrequireyoutopartwithanycash.Herearesomefabricsourcingideasandshoppingsuggestions.
Upcycling/repurposingoldfabricsBesidesbeinggoodforourplanetandkindtothewallet,repurposingisawaytoelongatethelifeofitemsthatwestilllovebutcannolongeruseintheiroriginalcapacity.Less-than-perfectitemssuchastablecloths,silkscarves,vintagedressesandcurtainscanbeallreincarnatedasoriginal,creativeandfunbags.Alsohuntaroundforoldbagsandpursesthatcanbetakenapartforspareslikebaghandles,clasps,andotherhardware–someofthevintagecomponentsaretrulybeautiful.Itemsforrepurposingcanbefoundeverywhere,fromyourrelative’satticstocharityshopsandjumblesales,toauctionwebsitesandeveninnewspaperadverts.
ShoppingfornewfabricsIt’sasadfactthatlocalhaberdasheryandfabricshopsareshuttingdownatfasterratethantheyareopeningup.Ibelieveinsupportingtheseshops
wheneverpossiblebecausetheyareoftenawonderfulsourceofinspirationandadvice,andalsotherearetimeswhenyouwanttotouchbeforeyoubuy.However,manytownsdon’thavethemsothankfullythereareloadsofonlinestoresstockedtotherafterswithlusciousfabrics.Aslongasyouhavealetterboxandacreditcardyoucanfeedyourfabricaddictioninjustafewclicks…ooohdangerous!Turntothebackofthebookformyrecommendedfabricsuppliers.
InterfacingandInterlining
Availableofftherollindifferentweightsandstrengths,interfacingandinterliningdolookfairlyboring,buthiddenunderneaththatdullexteriorliesomeprettyamazingpowers.Interfacingandinterliningstrengthenandreinforcefabricsandprovideinvisiblesupportandstructuretoyourbags,makingthemessentialingredientsinbagmaking.Thissupportmakesbagsmoredurableandthereforelongerlastingandbetterquality.Withoutitmostbagswilllookfloppyandfeelthinandunsubstantial.
Fromreinforcingsoftsilktomakingcottonfabricstiffandboxy(forwhenyouwantbagstostandupbythemselves)interfacingandinterliningchangethenatureoffabricsgivingyoutheflexibilitytousenearlyanyfabricsyouliketomakebags.
What’sthedifferencebetweeninterfacingandinterlining?
Interfacingsaretypicallyfusedtothebackoffabrics.Mostinterfacingsarefusible(alsoknownasiron-on).Fusibleinterfacinghasalayerofheat-activatedadhesiveononeside.Theadhesiveisactivatedbyacombinationofheatandsteamfromaniron.Simplylayitontothewrongsideofyourfabricandironitintoplace.Interfacingisparticularlygoodforreinforcingfabrics,inotherwordsmakingfabricsstifferandstronger.
Interliningsareusuallylayeredbetweentheexteriorandtheliningofbags.Interliningissoftandistypicallysew-in(asopposedtofusible)anditiscuttothesameshapeasthefabricpatternpiece(s).Theinterliningpieceispairedwiththefabricpieceandbotharetreatedasonelayerduringstitching,thustheinterliningisappliedbysewingitintotheseamsofyourbag.Interliningisparticularlygoodforaddingsupporttobagsbyaddingalayerofpadding–perfectiffabricsareonthethinsideand/oryouwantyourbagtofeelsoft,plumpandpadded.
Labellogic…It’seasytomuddletheinterfacingandinterliningafterthey’vebeeninyourstashforabit!Totaketheguessworkoutofidentifyingwhichiswhich,pinascrapofpapertothecornerofeachandmakeanoteofwhatitisfornexttime.
Needtoknow
Whenusingfusibleinterfacingalwayschooseaninterfacingthatislighterinweightthanyourfabric.Ifyouuseinterfacingthatistoostiffforyourfabric,thefabricwillloseitsnaturaldrapeandwillbecomepaper-likeandthereforepronetocreasing(justlikepaper).Withsew-ininterliningtheweight-to-fabricratioisn’tnearlyasimportantbecausecreasesintheinterliningwillnotshowuponyourfabric.Productnamesforinterfacingandinterliningsdifferfromcountrytocountry.Ifyoutellshopassistantsthatyouarelookingfora‘mediumweightfusibleinterfacing’,forexample,thatshouldbeenoughinformationforthemtodirectyoutotheproduct.
Ironingoninterfacing
1Placetheinterfacingpatternpieceshiny(adhesive)sidedownontotheWSofyourfabricpatternpiece,smoothdownandcarefullymatchupalledges.Placeacleandampclothontopoftheinterfacingandsetyour
irontotheinterfacingmanufacturer’srecommendedheatsetting.SeeFiga.
FigaThesteamgeneratedbythedampcloth(hereI’veusedacheckedteatowel)ensuresastrongbondbetweentheinterfacingandthefabric.
2Applyingmoderatepressuretotheinterfacingandfabric,presstheironontotheinterfacingthroughthedampcloth.Workingfromthecentretotheouteredges,presseachpartoftheinterfacingforthemanufacturer’srecommendtimeuntiltheinterfacingiscompletelybondedtothefabric.SeeFigb.
FigbThereshouldbenocreasesorbubblesinyourinterfacing.
Sewingininterlining
1PlacetheinterliningpatternpieceontotheWSofthefabricpatternpiece,matchupalledgesandtreatasonelayer.PinyourfabricpiecesRST(withinterliningattachedontheouterside).
2Stitchthefour-layeredsandwichtogetherwithyourpreferredseamallowance.SeeFigc.
FigcStitchingtheinterliningintotheseams(alongwiththefabrics)willsecuretheinterliningtothefabric.
Weightsofinterfacingandinterlining
Justlikefabrics,interfacingandinterliningareavailableindifferentweights.Thethicker/stiffertheinterfacingandinterliningthemoresupporttheywillprovide.Thetrickistocombinetheappropriateweightofinterfacing/interliningwithyourchoiceoffabrics,andthiswillcomewithtrialanderror.However,theinformationhere,alongwiththetableinChoosingFabrics,shouldhelpyoutomakeinformedchoicesandsaveyoutimeandfrustration.
Medium-weightfusibleinterfacing(wovenandnon-woven)Usewithquilt-weightcotton,heavysilk/satin,medium-weightwool/syntheticsandfinelinen.
Heavyweightsew-ininterliningUseinbetweentheexteriorandliningofyourbagswhenyourequireonlyalittlepadding.
Heavyweight/firmfusibleinterfacingUsewithupholsteryweightfabrics,heavylinen,denimandheavywool.
ThegreatexperimentIsuggestyoutrymyinterfacing/interliningsuggestionstosavetime,butdonotethattherearesomanydifferentfabricsoutthereandsomanywaysthatyoucancombinethemthattheverybestwaytolearnaboutwhichinterfacing/interliningtouseistoexperiment–youmayfindtheperfectproductforyourchosenfabricisnottheoneIhavesuggested.However,don’tworryifyouendupbuyingthewrongproductbecauseinterfacing/interliningissousefulyou’llbesuretouseitonsomethingelseinthefuture.
Sew-infleece/waddingUsewithanyfabricstoaddamoresubstantialpaddedandspongyfeel.
Fusiblefleece/waddingUsewithanyfabricthatyouwanttoaddsupportandalightpaddingto.Greatforsilk/satinswhenyouwanttostrengthenthefabricbyaddingsupportbehindthefabricwithoutmakingitatallcrispbyusingnormalfusibleinterfacing.Veryconvenienttouseasyou
canfuseityourfabrics.Greatforallotherfabricswhenyouwanttostrengthen/reinforcethefabricwhileretainingitsdrape(orfluidity).
Extrathick/ultra-firm/craftweightAvailableasfusibleandsew-invarieties.Thoughitisextrafirmitstillhasadegreeofflexibility.Itisperfectforaddingamorerigidstructureandboxiershapetoyourfabrics.Whenappliedtoorcombinedwithyourfabricthisinterfacingcanmakethefabric
firmenoughtostandupright.
Stickittome!Anotheroff-the-rollproductisfusibleweb.Thiscleverstuffisaheat-activatedadhesivethatlookslikefinespider’sweb.Itisusedtobondtwolayerstogether.
Fusiblewebisneitherinterfacingnorinterlining.Youcanusefusiblewebtobondyourfabricstoyourinterfacing–thisisveryusefulforexamplewhenyourfusibleinterfacingisn’tadheringtoyourfabricsproperlyorwhenyouwantyourinterfacingtobefusibleonbothsides.Fusiblewebisalsobrilliantforappliquéwork.
Makeit…TheReversibleBucketBagHalfthefunofmakingthischeerfulbagischoosingthreefabricsthatalllookfabuloustogether.Onceyouhavechosenthefabricsyou’llfindthisbagjustkindofmakesitself!Themoreyoupieceittogether(likeacolourfuljigsaw)themoreyou’llwanttoseetheyummyfinishedresult.Popaprettyfabricflowerontothebuttonclosureforanextratouchofcuteness.
FrontviewAfabricflowerembellishedself-coverbuttonwithabroochpinmakesaneye-catchingbagclosure,andtheprettycontrastbindingdoesdoubleduty–itbindstheliningandtheexterior
bagstogetheranditformsthebaghandlestoo.
ReversedFancyachange?Reversethebagforadifferentlook.Pinthebuttonclosuretowhicheversideyouhappentobeusingtoday.
BottomviewForasmartandcohesivelookusethesamecontrastfabricasthebindingforthebagbase.
Needtoknow
Heavierweightfabricsfortheexteriorarenotrecommended;mediumweightfabricisbestbecausetherewillbequiteafewlayerstoworkwithatthetopedgeofthebag.Choosethreefabricsthatareallthesameweight.Aslongasyouareconsistent,itdoesn’tmatterwhichfabricisinterfacedwiththefusibleinterfacingandwhichfabricisinterfacedwiththefusiblefleece.
Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
Youwillneed
•1pieceofmediumweightfabricforexterior,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•1pieceofmediumweightfabricforlining,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•1pieceofmediumweightfabricforcontrastbinding,baseandbuttonclosure,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•Mediumweightwovenfusibleinterfacing,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Fusiblefleece,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•50mmbiastapemaker•1self-coverbutton,4cm(11⁄2in)•1safetypin,2cm(3⁄4in)•Disappearingmarker
PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:
FromTheReversibleBucketBag(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece•2xfusibleinterfacing
FromTheReversibleBucketBag(base)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xcontrastfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing
TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:
•2bias-cutstripsofcontrastfabric,86x10cm(34x4in),forthesidetopedgetrimandbaghandles
•2bias-cutstripsofcontrastfabric,29x10cm(111⁄2x4in),forthecentretopedgetrim
•1stripofcontrastfabric30x6cm(12inx23⁄8in),forthebuttonloop•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,5cm(2in)square,forthebuttonreinforcement
Funkyfabrics…Forastrikingandgraphiclookingbagtrythisfabriccombination–twodifferentcolouredplainfabricswithacontrastingboldplainorpatternedfabricforthebindingandbase.
Thebinding,buttonloop,self-coverbuttonandinterfacing
1Makethebinding–takethefourbias-cutcontrastfabricstripsandrefertoMakingYourOwnBiasBindingfortheinstructions.
2Makethebuttonloop–takethebuttonloopcontrastfabricandfollowthestepsofOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.Withtheshortrawedgespointingupwardsfoldthestrapinhalfwidthways.Formatriangletipatthebottomfold.Stitchthetriangletipinplace(atthebaseofthetriangle)ontothebuttonloop.SeeFiga.
FigaFlattenthetipatthebottomofthelooptoformaneattriangle.
3Maketheself-coverbutton–takeascrapofcontrastfabricandfollowtheinstructionsonthepacktomaketheself-coverbutton.Decoratetheself-coverbuttonwithaprettyfabricyo-yoflowerifdesired,followingtheproductmanufacturer’sinstructions(seeSelf-coverButtons).Insertaprettybuttoninthemiddleandglueittotheself-coverbutton.Insertthesafetypinthoughtheshankoftheself-coverbuttonatthebackandsetaside.
4Interfacethefabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorpatternpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.SelectamainbodyexteriorpiecetobethebagfrontandirononeofthebuttonreinforcementsquarestotheWScentre,4cm
(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.Repeatwiththeliningfabricpatternpieces,fusiblefleecepatternpiecesandbuttonreinforcementsquare.
Thebagexterior
5Stitchthemainbodypiecestogether–bringtheexteriormainbodypiecesRST.Matchalltheedges,pinandstitchtogetheratbothsideedges.
6Stitchthebasetothebag–bringtheexteriorbasetotheexteriorbagRST.Matchalledgesandmatchthebasenotchestothenotchesonthebottomedgeofthebag.Pinandstitchallaround.SeeFigb.Ifthereisexcessfabricatthecurvededgesofthebasemakesmallpleatsatthecurvesandstitchthroughthem–theywillformattractivegathersatthesides(seePleats).Clipthecurvededges.TurnRSO.
FigbPinandstitchonthebagside–it’seasierthanstitchingonthebaseside.
Thebaglining
7Makeuptheliningbag–maketheliningbaginthesamewayastheexteriorbag(steps5and6).
Assemblingthebag
8Bringtheliningbagandtheexteriorbagtogether–placetheliningbagWSOintotheexteriorbagRSO.Thewrongsidesofthebagsshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Neatlymatchtherawtopedgesofbothbagsandpintogetherallaround,4cm(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.SeeFigc.
FigcCarefullymatchthetopedgesandpintheliningandexteriorbagtogether4cm(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.
Thebaglining
Thebaglining
9Stitchthebuttonlooptothebag–takethebuttonloopRSU(withrawedgespointingupwards)andplaceitontothecentretopedgebagback(ontheliningside).Matchthetopedgesandstitchthelooptothebag(throughalllayers)witha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.
10Stitchthecentretopedgebindingtothebag–takeoneofthecentretopedgetrimbiasbindingstripsandbindthecentretopedgeoftheexteriorbagfront–seeBoundEdges(excepttherearenooverlappingedgestoworkwith).Repeatwiththeothercentretopedgebindingpieceandthebackofthebag.Onthebackofthebag,liftupthebuttonloop(sothetriangletipontheloopispointingupwards)andstitchtheloopintheuppositiontothetopedgeofthebag(throughthebinding)3mm(1⁄8in)downfromtheedge.SeeFigd.
FigdFoldthebuttonloopupwardsandstitchinplacetothebinding.
Thesidetopedgesandhandles
11Bindthesidetopedgesofthebagback–takethesidetopedgebias-cutcontrastfabricstripRSUandstartbindingthesidetopedgesoftheexteriorbagback.Seesteps1–2ofBoundEdges(andtherestofthisstep).Workingfromlefttorightstartpinningandstitchingthebindingtothebag5mm(3⁄16in)totheleftofthesideseam.SeeFige1.Whenyour
bindingstitchesreachthetopedgeofthecurvedcentretopedge,stopstitchingandsecurewithseveralbackstitches.Taketheotherendofthebindingandpinandstitchittotheothersideofthebag(begin5mm/3⁄16intotherightofthesideseamandworkrighttoleft).
Fige1Beginpinningthebindingtothetopedgeofthebag5mm(3⁄16in)beforethesideseam.
12Completethebindingprocess–seeBoundEdges,step4(andtherestofthisstep)tocompletethebindingasfollows.Foldupthebindingoverthetopedgeofthebagandpin.Fromthepointswherethebindingcurvesawayfromthetopedgeofthebag,foldthebindingperfectlyinhalftoformabaghandle.Youmayneedtoironanewcentrefoldinthebindingtodothis.Pinthebaghandleedgestogether.Topstitchthefoldedbindingtothebag.Stitchoverthecurvedtopedgecornersagaintostrengthenthebaseofthebaghandles.SeeFige2.
Fige2Thetopstitchingalongthesideedgebindingshouldflowsmoothlyintothebaghandle.Topstitchagainatthebaghandlebasetostrengthenthestressarea.
13Bindthesidetopedgesofthebagfront–bindthebagfrontinthesamewayasforthebagbackexceptyouneedtakethebindingRSUandfoldtheshortedgesundertotheWS5mm(3⁄16in)beforeyoubeginbinding.Beginpinningandstitchingthebindingatthesideseams–thefoldedshortedgesofthebinding(atthesideseams)shouldoverlaptherawshortedgesofthebindingfromthebacksideofthebag.SeeFigf.
FigfPlacetheshortedgesofthefrontbindingoverthetopoftheshortedgesofthebackbindingsotheyoverlap.
14Finishingtouches–decidewhichbagsideyouprefertodayandpinthebuttontothefrontofthebag.
AboveHavefunchoppingandchangingyourfabricchoicestomakecompletelydifferentlookingbags.Trymakingapetiteversionofthisbag(seeModifyingPatterns)indeepcolouredvelvetsandsatinsforasweetlysophisticatedeveningbag.Ortryinsertinganeasy-to-makeslippocket
ontothebag(seeSlipPocket).Thetimetodothiswouldbebetweensteps4and5.
3:StructureAndReinforcementThischapterlooksatvariouswaysyoucanadd‘va-va’volumeandsomeexciting3Dshapelinesstoyourcreations.Itthenlooksatsomewaysyoucanreinforceyourbagstohelpensurethattheykeeptheirshape.Inbagmaking,structureandreinforcementgohandinhandsoit’simportanttohaveanunderstandingofbothbeforeyoudoanyfabriccutting.Thetablebelowdetailsdifferentvolumeaddingfeatures(VAFs),theirbenefits,andsuggestionsfortheiruse.
Turnupthevolume…Anystyleofbagcanbenefitfromsomevolumeaddingfeatures.Soit’stimetostepawayfromthepancake-flattotebagandmakesomenoise!
VolumeAddingFeatures
Benefits SuggestedUses
Darts
Quickandeasytoapply.Doesnotrequireextrafabric.Versatileandneatinappearance.
Anysizeofpurseorbag,fromlittlecoinpursestooversizedbags.Alsogreatonbagpockets.
Pleats
Decorativeandversatile.Addoneorseveralpleatstoaddinterestaswellasvolume.
Anysizeofpurseorbag,fromlittlecoinpursestooversizedbags.Alsogreatonbagpockets.
GussetsThemosteffectivewaytoaddmaximumdepthandcapacity.
Overnightbags,sportsstylebags,wornoverthebodysatchelsandhold-alls.Alsogreatonbagpockets.
FlatAquickandeffectivewaytoaddvolumetothe
Anysizeofpurseorbag,fromlittlecoinpursestooversized
FlatBottoms
toaddvolumetothebottomofyourbagandtoflattenthebottom.
littlecoinpursestooversizedbags.Alsogreatonbagpockets.
Gathers Quickandeasytoapply,decorativeandversatile.
Manytypesofbags,pockets,walletandjournaltabclosures.Alsogreatonbagpockets.
DartsAddingasoftconicalshapetowherevertheyareapplied,dartslookespeciallyattractiveonthebottomcornersofcurvyorroundedcorneredbags.SeeDarts.
PleatsAnexcitingwaytoaddtexturetoyourbags,thefoldsplaywiththelighttocreateinterestingshapes.Crispfoldedpleatscanlookcuteandpreppyortheycanlookartyand
structural,dependingonfabricandplacement.SeePleats.
GussetsAddingagussettoyourbagwilleffectivelyaddsidepanelsandwillalsoaleveloffthebagbottom.Agussetisagreatwayofincreasingthesizeofyourbagwithoutitappearingmuch
bigger.SeeGussets.
FlatBottomsThesearequickandsupereasytoinsertintoyourbags.Withaflatbottomyourbagwillhaveanice3Dshape,willstanduprightandyourstuffwon’trollaroundinside.SeeFlat
Bottoms.
GathersYoucouldsaythatgathersarethemorecasualcousintopleatsbecausegathersdon’trequireyoutofoldyourfabricneatlyandtheygiveasofter,less-structuredappearance.See
Gathers.
DartsDartsareaneasywaytoaddasmalltomediumamountofvolumetoyourbags.Theyaddaslightconicalshapetowherevertheyareplaced.Dartsareusuallyplacedonthebottomcornersofbags,pursesandpockets,andcanbeinsertedontocurvedorlinearbagcorners.
Youwillneed
•Ruler
Testingtimes…Toseewhatyourdartswilllooklikeonyourbag,experimentwithapieceofpaper.Beforefabriccutting,thegoldenruleistest,testandtestagain.
Needtoknow
AdartbeginslifeasaV-shapethatjutsoutofthebagpatternoutline(whichalwayspointsintowardsthemiddleofthepattern).Thelengthandangleofthedartaredictatedbythepatternmarkings.Thelongerthelinesandthewidertheangleonthepatternis,thelongerandpointierthedartis.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.SewyourdartsBEFOREyousewupyourbagliningandBEFOREyousewupyourbagexterior.
1Decideonthedartpositionanddrawthedartsonthepattern–Itendtopositionmydartsslap-bangontothebottomcornersofmybags.Whendrawingdartsontoyourbagpatternit’simportantthatthedartsareasymmetricalV-shape–thedartlinesneedtobethesamelengthoneitherside.SeeFiga.
FigaThedartissymmetricalasbothofthedartlinesareofequallength.
2Cutoutthefabricandsewthedarts–cuttheV-shapeofthedartoutofyourfabric.ThenfoldtheV-shapeinhalf,RSTcarefullymatchtherawedgesandholdinplacewithyourfingers(orpinifyouprefer).SeeFigb.Stitchalongthelongrawedgeofthedartwithatleasta5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherdarts.
FigbFoldthedartinhalfandmatchupalltherawdartedgesbeforestitching.
3Withthedartssewn,assemblethelining/exterior–bringyourbaglining/exteriorpiecesRSTandwhenmatchingupthebottomandsideedgespayattentiontothedartlinestoensurethattheymatch.SeeFigc.Aftermatchingupyourdartlinesyoucanthenmatchuptheedgesoftherestofthebag,pinandstitchthelining/exteriortogether.Continuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).
FigcNoticehowthedartlinesofthetwohalvesofthebagflowintoeachother,makingahighlyprofessional-lookingdart.
Strengthandbeauty…Whensewingdartsintothebagexterior,teamyourexteriorfabricwithsomesortofinterliningorinterfacing(seeInterfacingandInterlining).Thisstrengthensthedartandgivesitamoreattractiveappearance.
PleatsPleatsnotonlyaddvolumetoyourbags,theyalsoaddalotofvisualinterestgivingyouagreatopportunitytoplaywithyourfabricchoicesandpleatposition.Ifyouthinkthelookisright,youcanaddpleatstoanybagorpurse.
Youwillneed
•Ruler•Disappearingmarker•Extracontrastfabricifmakingpeek-a-boopleats(seePeek-a-BooPleats)•Pressingcloth
Needtoknow
Pleatingfabricsmeansbuildinguplayers,sounlessyouaresewingwithfinefabricthatneedsstabilizing,choosealighterweightinterfacingoritwillgettoobulkyforyoursewingmachine.Pleatscanrunfromtoptobottom,oryoucanchoosetopleatjustfromthetopofthebagandletyourpleatsflareouttowardsthebottom.Whenpatternmaking,remembertoaddwidth/lengthtoyourpatternpiece(s)toaccommodateyourpleats.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.InsertyourpleatsBEFOREyouassembleyourbagexterior/bagpockets.
1Decideonthepleatnumberandpositionandmarkyourpattern–afterdecidingonthenumber,sizeandpositionofyourpleats,markthepleatsonyourbagpattern.IusuallydrawpleatnotchmarkingsonmypatternsoIknowwheretofoldmyfabricconcertinafolds.SeeFiga.
Pleatpractice…Whendecidingonthefoldsizeandnumberofpleats,tryexperimentingwithyourpaperpatternstoseewhatlooksrightforthesizeofyourbag.
Figa1–a2Makenotchmarkingsforyourpleatfoldssoyouknowwheretoconcertinafoldthefabric…likeso.
2Decideifyouwantthepleatstorunfromtoptobottomorjustfromthetopofyourbag–ifyouwantthepleatstorunfromtoptobottomaddcorrespondingpleatnotches(tothoseyoumadeinstep1)tothebottomedgeofyourpattern.Ifyoudon’twantthepleatstoruntothebottomthere’snoneedtomakefurtherchangestoyourpattern.
3Cutoutthefabricandfoldyourpleats–cutoutthefabricpiecesandtransferthepleatnotchmarkingstoyourfabric.Usingyournotchmarkingsasaguide,carefullyfoldthepleatsandironintoplaceusingapressingcloth.SeeFigb.
FigbIroningthepleatswillhelpthemtostayinplaceandlookcrisp.Usingapressingclothwillprotectyourfabricfromscorchmarksandshininess.Youcanuseanycolourfastmid-weight
cottonfabricasapressingcloth.
4Stitchyourpleatsintoplace–sewalineofstitchesabout5mm(3⁄16in)fromthetopedge.Ifthepleatsrunfromtoptobottomsewalineofstitchesalongthebottomedgeofthepleatstoo.SeeFigc.Continuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).
Sittingpretty…Ifyoulikeyoucaninsertstripsofprettyfabricsinsideyourpleatstomakescrummypeek-a-boopleats.FullinstructionsforthesecanbefoundinTheVersatileBookBagproject.
FigcSewingalineofstitchesalongthetopedgeofyourpleatswillsecuretheminplacewhileyougetonwithconstructingtherestofyourbag.
GussetsYoucanaddgussetstoflatorcurvedbottombags–theyarethemosteffectivewaytoaddthemaximumamountofvolume.Whileaddingsidepanelstoyourbags,theyalsoflattenthebottomtoo.Oneofthebiggestpitfallsisthatifyoudon’tplanyourpatternproperlyyou’llfindyourselfwithadreadedtwistedgusset.Thesimplesecrettosewinganon-twistedgussetistouseplentyofnotchmarkings.
Youwillneed
•Disappearingmarker•Ruler
Needtoknow
Togaugethelengthofyourgussetpattern,measurearoundtheoutlineofyourmainbagbodypatternpiecesandadd10cm(4in).Thisleavesyouwitha5cm(2in)marginforerroroneithershortendofthegusset.Ifyourgussetislongerthanthewidthofyourfabricyoucansewtwoequallengthstripsoffabrictogethertomakeupthelength.Asthejoinwillbeonthebottomofyourbagitwon’tbeonshow.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.SewyourgussetAFTERaddinganypocketstoyourlining/exterior.
Digdeep…Whendecidingonthedepthofyourgusset,experimentwithyourpaperpatternstoseewhatlooksrightforthesizeofyourbag.Putwhatyouplantocarryinyourbagonthetableandusethatasaguidetofigureouthowdeepthegussetshouldbe.
andusethatasaguidetofigureouthowdeepthegussetshouldbe.
1Makeupthegussetpatternpiece–decideonthedepthofyourgussetandaddyourseamallowancetoyourchosendepth.Forexample,ifyouwantyourgussettobe8cm(31⁄8in)wideandyouaresewingwithaseamallowanceof1cm(3⁄8in),theoverallgussetpatternpiecewillbe10cm(4in)wide.Whenyouhavedecidedonthewidthofyourgussetpattern,findthelengthofyourgusset(seeNeedtoknow).
Lessismore…It’sagoodideatoerrontheconservativesidewhendecidingonthedepthofyourgusset.Ifyouoverdoitonthegussetwidthyourbagwilljutoutquiteadistancefromyourbodyandwillenduplookingmorelikeaboxthanabag.
2Addcorrespondingnotchmarkstoyourgussetpatternandthemainbagbodypattern–foldyourbaggussetpatterninhalfwidthwaysandwithdisappearingmarker/chalkmarkthecentreonbothlongedges.Makeacorrespondingcentremarkonthecentrebottomedgeofthemainbagbodypattern.Makemorenotchmarksonyourgussetpatterninthesamewayatequalintervals,rememberingtoputnotchmarkingsonbothlongedgesofthegusset.Nowaddcorrespondingnotchmarkingstothemainbagbodypatternasbefore.Addingnotchesupthebottomcornersisusuallysufficient,butyoucanalsonotchupthesidesifyouwanttobeextrasafe.SeeFiga.Youarenowreadytocutoutyourfabricpieces.
Figa1–a2Markthecentreofthebaggussetonbothlongedgesandthenaddmorenotchmarkingsonbothlongedges;makecorrespondingnotchmarkingsonyourmainbagbody
pattern.
3Pinandstitchthegussettoonebagbodypiece–bringthebaglining/exteriorandbaglining/exteriorgussetRST,carefullymatchuptherawedgespayingextraattentiontobringingthenotchmarkingsonthegussetandmainbagbodytogethersothattheyallcorrespond.Start
pinningthegussettothebagbodypieceatthebagbottomedgeandworkyourwayupthesides.SeeFigb.You’llnoticethatthegussetistoolongforthebagbodypiece(theextralengthistherejustincasethingsdon’tquitegotoplan)–youcantrimofftheexcesslater.Repeattheprocessfortheothersideofthegussetandtheotherbagbodyfabricpiece.Whenyouhavecompletelysewnthegussettoyourlining/exteriortrimoffanyexcessfabricatthetopofthegussetsides.Clipthecurves(ifappropriate)andirontheseamsopen.Continuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).
FigbTakethetimetomatchupthenotchesonyourgussetandthemainbagbodycarefullyandyou’llsewaneatandnon-twistedgusset.
FlatBottomsAddingaflatbagbottomtoabagisaseasyaspie.It’saninstantwaytoaddvolumeanda3Dshapetothebottomofyourbags.Thistutorialdescribeshowtoinsertaflatbottomintoasimpleflatrectangletotebag,butyoucanusethissimpletechniqueonlotsofdifferentbags,pursesandwallets.
Youwillneed
•Rulerorgriddedcuttingmat•Disappearingmarker•Griddedbagbottom(optional–useifyouwanttoreinforcethebottomofyourbag–seeReinforcement)
•Bagfeet(optional–useifyouwanttoprotectthebottomofyourbagformdirtandscrapes–seeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step13)
Needtoknow
Todeterminetheoverallheightofyourpatternpiece,addthefinishedbagheightmeasurementtoyourbagbottomdepthmeasurement,plustwolotsofyourchosenseamallowance.Todeterminetheoverallwidthofyourpatternpiece,addthefinishedwidthmeasurementtothedepthmeasurement,plustwolotsofseamallowance.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.
1Sewupyourrectangletotelining/exterior–stitchyourbaglining/exteriorRSTalongthesideandbottomedges.
2Flattenthebottomcornertomakeyourbagbottomflat–graboneofthebottomcornersofthelining/exteriorandmatchthesideseamlinewiththebottomseamline(lookintoyourbagtoseeifthesideseamandthebottomseamsmeetandflowintoeachother).Completelyflattenthebagcornertoformatriangleandpintosecure.SeeFiga.
FigaFlattenthebagcornertomakeatriangle.Ensurethesideseamlinesupwiththebottomseam.
3Measureandmarkyourchosenflatbottomdepth–let’ssay,forexample,youwantyourbagbottomtobe9cm(31⁄2in)indepth.Tomakeyourbagbottom9cm(31⁄2in)deep,allyouneedtodoismeasureandmarkalinethatis90degreestothesideseamandis9cm(31⁄2in)longacrossthewidthofthetriangle.Agriddedcuttingmatcomesinveryhandyforthisjob.SeeFigb.
Mockitup…Toseewhatyourflatbottomwilllooklikeonyourbag,experimentwithapieceofpaperoryourpattern.
FigbUsearulerorgriddedcuttingmattoensurethattheflatbottomsidelineisataperfectrightangletothesideseamandisyourchosenflatbottomdepthmeasurementinlength,inthiscase
9cm(31⁄2in)long.
4Stitchtheflatbottom–stitchalongtheflatbottomlinemarkyoumadeinstep3.Besuretosewsecuringstitchesatbothends.Tofinish,trimoffanyexcessfabricfromthetriangle,butnottooclosetheseam.SeeFigc.
Figc1–c2Stitchalongthemarkedlineandtrimofftheexcessfabricfromthetriangle.
GathersGathersareaquick-and-easywaytoaddvolumeandto‘prettyup’yourbags.Thetechniqueofgatheringfabricisalsousedinmakingruffles.Gathersareeasiertoworkwithandmosteffectiveworkedinmediumtolighterweightfabricsthatlendthemselvestoabitmorecoaxingandteasing.
Youwillneed
•Disappearingmarker•Ruler
Gracefulgathers…Whendecidingonthesizeofyourgatherstryexperimentingwithyourpaperpatternstoseewhatlooksrightforyourbag.Don’tcutthefabricmorethandoublethewidthofthefinishedbag,asthegatherswilllookunwieldy.
Needtoknow
Forbig,puffygathersmeasuredoubletheamountoffabrictoyourchosenfinishedbagwidth/length.Ifyouwantthefinished(gathered)widthofyourfabrictobe30cm(12in)youneedtocut60cm(24in).Forsofter,subtlergathersreducetheamountoffabric.Gatherscanrunfromtoptobottomoryoucanchoosetogatherjustfromthetopofthebagandletyourgathersflareouttowardsthebottom.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.
1Decideonthewidthandpositionofyourgathersonthepattern–forexample,areyougoingtogatherthewholewidthofyourbagorjustthecentresection?Whenyouhavedecidedonyourgatherwidth(andthereforeyourfabricwidth)markyourpatternwithtwopointswithinwhichyouwantyourgatherstoappear.
2Decideifyouwantyourgatherstorunfromtoptobottomorjustfromthetopofyourpattern–ifyouwantthemtorunfromtoptobottomaddtwocorrespondinggatherpoints(tothoseyoumadeinstep1)tothebottomedgeofyourpattern.Ifyoudon’twantyourgatherstoruntothebottomnofurtherpatternchangesareneeded.
3Cutoutthefabricandsewalineofrunningstitchacrossyourgatherfabric–cutoutyourfabricandtransferthetwogatheringpointsontoyourfabric.Setyoursewingmachinetothelongeststitchandyourbobbintoaveryloosetension.Leavinglongthreadtailsatbeginningandend,stitchalineofstraightstitchesbetweenthetwogatheringpointswithoutsewingsecuringstitchesateitherend.Pullonthebobbinthread(thebottomthread)togatherupyourfabrictoyourchosenwidth.SeeFiga.Distributethefabricgathersevenlywithyourfingers.Setyourmachinetoyournormalstitchlengthandtensionbeforesewinganotherlineofstitchesacrossthetopofyourgatherstosecuretheminplace.Removetheloosestitchthreadsanddiscard.Ifyourgathersrunfromtoptobottomrepeatforthebottomedge.Continuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).
FigaAlongstitchlengthandloosebobbintensionwillenableyoutopullonthebobbinthreadtogatherupthefabric.
ReinforcementWehavejustlookedatvarioustechniquesforaddingvolumetobags,butinorderforyourvolumizedbagstoretaintheirshapeweoftenneedtocallinreinforcements.Bagmakingreinforcementscomeintheshapeofcertainotherproductsandtechniques.AswesawinChapter2,yournumberonedefenceagainst‘saggybag’isinterfacingandinterlining,butsometimesyoujustwantabitmore…Herearesomeproductsthatyoucanusetofurtherreinforceyourbags:
PolyesterboningThisisafirmbutflexiblespringystripofnylonthatisoftenusedincorsetmaking.Itsflexible,stiffeningpropertiesmakeitperfectforaddingsupporttosideseamsandbagopenings.Sewdirectlyintoseamallowancestoadda‘flexi-skeleton’toyourbags.Youcaneithersewtheboningintooneseamallowancelayer,orrightthroughbothlayers,orevenonepieceofboningoneachlayerofyourseamallowanceforsupersupport.Youwillneedtoensureyour
seamallowancesarewideenoughtoaccommodatethewidthoftheboning.Alsoensurethatyourboningisshorterthanthelengthofyourseam.Becausepolyesterdoesnotbendeasily,the
boningshouldn’twraparoundyourseamsinacontinuousstrip.
GridbagbottomThisiseasytocutandshapeandprovidesadurableflexiblestiffnesstothebottomorsidepanelsofyourbags.Neveruseamateriallikecardboardasasubstitutebecausenomatterhowstiffthecardboardisitwontstanduptoeventualwearandtear,pluscardboardisn’twaterproof.Thisfirmbutflexiblematerialwillreinforceandgivedefinitiontoyourbag
bottoms.Youcanalsotryitinthesidesofbagsforuprighthold-alls,forexample.
FleeceAlsoknownaswaddingorbatting,thissoftandspongymaterialisavailableofftherolleitherasasew-inlayerorfusible(seeSew-inFleece/WaddingandFusibleFleece/Wadding).FleeceisbrilliantforaddingasoftandslightlysquishyfeeltoyourbagsandIuseitextensively.Fleecemakesbagsfeelmoresubstantialandinturn,betterquality.Cutoutthefleecealongwithyourbagpatternpiecesanduseinbetweenyourexteriorandlining.Ifyouwantalayerofsupport
inyourbagthatisyieldingratherthanfirm,alayer(ortwo)offleecewilldothejobnicely.
Makeit…TheCocktailRuffleClutchThispurseshapeisanenduringclassic.Makeonenowandloveitforyearstocome.Thecleanorigamilines,slightlyoverlongwidth,andthefunrufflecombinetomaketheclutchlookmodern,grown-upandtherightsideofinteresting.Thebodyoftheclutchisrigid,makingitsuitabletobeworntuckedunderyourarm,orwithitsembellishedchainhandletheclutchlooksjustasgoodwornasahandbag.Perfectforanuptownlunchdate,acityshoppingspreeorspecialnightout.
SideviewThisclutchhasanippyslimlineprofile.
BottomThepaperbag-stylebottomfoldsnotonlylookquietlycool,theyaddalittlevolumetothebagtoo.
HandleTheoptionalchainhandlehasbeenembellishedwithmatchingsilkfromtheclutch,addingtothe‘expensive’look.
Needtoknow
Tomakethisclutchyoursewingmachineneedstohaveafreearm.Aheavierfabricisbestfortheexteriorofthisbagbecauseitismeanttoberigid.Fauxorrealsuede/leatherisbestbecauseitdoesnotfray,whichisimportantfortheruffletrim.
Dupionsilkortaffetasilkworkbestastheliningandtriminthisclutchbecausetheyaremorehardwearingandfloppysilk/satinisnotsuitablefortheruffle.Useajeanssewingmachineneedlewhenusingheavyfabrics.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
Youwillneed
•1pieceofhomedecfabricforexteriorandruffletrim50cm(1⁄2yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide
•1pieceofsilkdupionfabricforliningandruffletrim,50cm(1⁄2yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)
•Ultra-firmfusibleinterfacing,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Single-sidedfusiblefleece,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•1pursechainwithlargelinksandspringhooks,approx64cm(25in)long•2D-rings,12mm(1⁄2in)•2magneticsnaps,14mm(1⁄2in)•Hand-sewingneedle•Disappearingmarker•Narrowdouble-sidedtape,3mm(1⁄8in)•Knittingneedle•10smallbulldogclips(optional–useinsteadofpinsifyourfabricisheavy)•Holepunch,4mm(1⁄8in)•Widewavyrotarycutter,rulerandcuttingmat•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth
PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:
FromTheCocktailRuffleClutch(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric•2xultra-firminterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece
FromTheCocktailRuffleClutch(flap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xultra-firmfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece
TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:
•1pieceofliningfabric,24x15cm(91⁄2x6in),fortheinnerpocket•1pieceofexteriorfabric,50x6cm(191⁄2x23⁄8in),fortheruffletrim•1pieceofliningfabric,52x9cm(201⁄2x31⁄2in),fortheruffletrim•1pieceofliningfabric,12x10cm(43⁄4x4in),forthehandleloops•1pieceofliningfabric,6x75cm(23⁄8x291⁄2in),forthepursechaintrim•2piecesofultra-firmfusibleinterfacing,2.5cm(1in)square,forthemagneticsnapreinforcement
•1stripofultra-firmfusibleinterfacing,2.5x29cm(1x111⁄2in),fortheflapmagneticsnapreinforcement
Thehandle
1Makeupthehandleloops–takethehandleloopfabricpieceandfollowthestepsinOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.Divide
theresultingstrapintotwoequallengthsandthreadaD-ringontoeach
ofthehandleloops.Setaside.
2Makeupthepursechaintrim–takethepursechaintrimfabricpieceandfollowthestepsinClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap.Weavethestrapinandoutofthelinksofthepursechain.Foldeachendovertheendlinksofthechainandhandstitchdown.Setaside.
Theruffletrim
3Makethetoprufflelayer–taketheexteriorruffletrimfabricpieceandusingawavyrotarycutter,cutawavyedgealongbothlongedges.SeeFiga.Onbothlongedgesuseaholepunchtomakeholesalongthepeaksandtroughsofthewaves.
FigaThewavyedgewillgivethisruffleevenmore‘oomph’.
4Makethebottomrufflelayer–taketheliningruffletrimfabricpieceRSO,foldbothlongedgesunderby5mm(3⁄16in)andiron.Repeatandstitchthefolds3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.Repeatforbothshortedgesoftheruffletrim.
5Combinetherufflelayers–laytheexteriorruffletrimRSUdownthecentrelengthoftheliningruffletrimRSU.Thereshouldbeanevenamountofliningrufflepeekingoutfromthetoplayeralongbothlongedges.Sewalineofgatheringstitchesinthecentredownthelengthoftheruffleasdescribedoninstep3ofGathersexceptyouwillneedtosewsecuringstitchesatthestartofyourstitches.Setaside.
Thebagexterior
6Interfacetheexteriorfabricpieces–trimoff12mm(1⁄2in)allaroundeachoftheultra-firminterfacingexteriorpiecestoreducebulkattheseams.Carefullylaytheultra-firmfusibleinterfacingpatternpiecesontotheWSofthecorrespondingexteriorfabricpatternpieceswithaneven12mm(1⁄2in)fabricborderallaroundandironinplace.Finally,ironthefusiblefleecepatternpiecesontotheWSofalloftheexteriorfabricpieces(directlyontothefusibleinterfacing).
7Insertthemagneticsnapstotheexteriorfront–insertthemagneticpartofthesnaptotheRSoftheexteriorbagfrontatbothmagneticsnappatternmarkings(seeSnaps).
8Stitchtheexteriorpiecestogether–bringtheexteriorpiecesRST,pinandstitchalongthesidesandbottom.Asyousewtakecaretopositiontheneedle2mm(1⁄16in)awayfromtheedgeoftheultra-firminterfacing.Thiswillleaveyouwithaseamallowanceof1cm(3⁄8in)anditwillreducebulkattheseams.SeeFigb.
FigbSewingatinydistanceawayfromtheinterfacingwillresultinneater-lookingseamsandwillmaketurningouteasier.
9Sewtheflatbottom–pinchoneofthebottom(squarecut-out)cornerstogether.Asyoupinchyouwillnoticethatthecornerwillformwhatlookslikeatrianglewitha‘sawn-off’tip.SeeFigc.Neatlymatchuptherawedgesofthesawn-offtip,holdsecurelyinplacewithyourfingersandstitchalongtherawedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.Coveryourhandwithanovenmittorcleanteatowelsoyoucangetyourhandinsidethebaganduseitasamobileironingboardtoironthesideandbottomseamsopen.TurntheexteriorbagRSO.IrontheRSofthebagusingapressingclothandyourhand(cladinanovenmittasbefore)toironoutthecreases.
FigcPinchthesquarecut-outtogetherlikeso.
Leatherknow-how…Ifusingleather,onlypinintheseamallowancesoastonot‘scar’thefabricwithpinholesandusealeathersewingmachineneedle.IftheRSofyourleatherisshinyyoumayneedtouseanon-sticksewingmachinefoot.
10Creaseandtopstitchthepaperbag-stylebottom–usingadisappearingmarkermeasureandmark1.5cm(1⁄2in)atregularintervalsoneithersideandparalleltothebagbottomseamline.Useyourfingerstopinchalongthemarkstoformabottomedgecreaseateithersideofthebottomseam.Youshouldnowbeabletosquashthebottomoftheclutchflat(andthebottomedgecornersofthesideseamswillslopeinwardstowardsthebottomseam).Laythepressingclothoverthecreasesandsteamirontheminplace.Topstitchalongbothcreaseswitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowancethroughalllayers.SeeFigd.
FigdSeehowthefoldsresembleapaperbagbottom?
11Creaseandironthetopedgeoftheexterior–withtheexteriorbagRSOfoldthetopedgeoftheexteriordown1cm(3⁄8in)totheWS.Ironthefoldedtopedgetogetaniceandsharpcrease.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod,step2.
Thebaglining
12Insertaslippocketintothelining–taketheinnerpocketfabricpiecesandfollowthestepsinSlipPockettomakeaslippocket.PinandstitchthepockettotheRScentreoftheliningbackfabric3cm(11⁄8in)downfromthetopedge.
13Pinandstitchtheliningbagtogether–assembletheliningasinTheCocktailRuffleClutchsteps8and9,butleaveagapof15cm(6in)onthebottomedgeoftheliningforturningout.
14Creaseandtopstitchthepaperbag-stylebottominthelining–createthepaperbagstylebottomfoldsinthelininginthesamewayasin
step10butdonotturntheliningRSO.ThecreasesarestitchedintotheWSofthelining.
15Creaseandironthetopedgeofthelining–withtheliningbagWSOfoldthetopedgeoftheliningdown1cm(3⁄8in)ontotheWS.Ironthefoldedtopedgetogetanicesharpcrease.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod,step1.
Thebagflap
16Interfacetheflaplining–laythefusiblefleecepiecesontotheWSofthecorrespondingliningpiecesandironinplace.
17Reinforcethemagneticsnapareaontheflaplining–laytheultra-firmmagneticsnapreinforcementstripontotheflapWSflaplining(directlyontothefleece).Positionitinthecentre1.5cm(1⁄2in)upfromthebottomedgeofthefabric.Useapressingclothtoironitinplace.
18Insertthemagneticsnapstotheflaplining–insertthenon-magneticpartofthesnaptotheRSoftheflapliningatboththemagneticsnappatternmarkings(seeSnaps).
19Interfacetheflapexterior–trimoff12mm(1⁄2in)allaroundthebottomandsideedgesoftheultra-firminterfacingflappiece,thentrim6cm(23⁄8in)offthetopedge.Laythetrimmedultra-firminterfacingpieceontotheWSoftheflapexterior,withaneven12mm(1⁄2in)borderoffabricaroundthesidesandbottomandironinplace.
AboveExperimentwithcontrastingshadesfortheruffle,usingdifferentdepthsofthesamecolourasIhavehere,orusecontrastingcoloursasshowninthesteps.
20Pinandstitchtheflapliningtotheflapexterior–bringtheflapliningandexteriorpiecesRST,pinandstitcharoundedgesoftheflap,butleavea15cm(6in)gapinthetopedgeforturningout.Clipoffthecorners.TurntheflapRSOthroughthegap,smoothout,anduseafatknittingneedletopushthecornersout.UseapressingclothtoirontheRSandWSoftheflap.Finally,pushtherawedgesofthegapintotheholeandirontheedges.Topstitchtheflapallaroundthesides,topand
bottomedgeswitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance,stitchingthegapshutasyougo.
Assemblingthebag
21Positionthebagflapontothebagexterior–applyastripofnarrowdouble-sidedtapeontotheWSoftheflap2cm(3⁄4in)upfromthetopedgeoftheflapandpeeloffthebackingstrip.PlacethenarrowertopedgeoftheflapRSOontotheflapplacementpatternmarkingontheclutchbackRSexteriorandpressfirmlyinplace.SeeFige.
FigePlacetheflapupsidedownontotheflappatternmarkingontheexteriorRSbackoftheclutch
22Stitchthebagflaptothebagexterior–stitchtheflaptotheexteriorbag5mm(3⁄16in)fromtheedgetheflap.Stitchanotherlineofstitches5mm(3⁄16in)awayfromthepreviouslineofstitchesforextrastrength.Removethedouble-sidedtape.
23Pintheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–inserttheliningbagWSOintotheexteriorbagRSO.Thewrongsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Neatlymatchupthefoldedtopedgesoftheliningandtheexteriorbagsandpinorbulldogcliptogether.Donotpinorcliparoundthesideseams.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod,step3.
24Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–withthebagflapfoldeddownoutoftheway,beginstitchingtheliningandexteriorbagtogetherbytopstitchingallaroundthetopofthebagwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.Asyouapproachthesideseams,stopsewingandleavetheneedleinthedownposition.Takeoneofthehandleloops(foldedinhalfwithD-ringattached)andinsertit(withtheD-ringpointingupwards)inbetweentheliningandexterior.Tuckthehandleloopdownintothebagsothereisonly1cm(3⁄8in)oflooppeekingout.Holdthehandleloopfirmlyinplacewithyourfingersandresumetopstitching(overtheloop).Repeatwiththeotherhandleloop.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod,step3.
25Finishingtouches–taketheruffletrimandpullonthethreadtailtogatheruptherufflessothatitisthesamelengthasthebottomedgeofthebagflap.SeeFigf.Spacethegathersevenlywithyourfingers.Threadthehand-sewingneedlewiththethreadtailsandsecurethegatheringstitchesatthebackoftherufflewithseveralstitches.HandsewtheruffletrimtotheRSoftheflap.Stitchthroughtherufflebottomlayerandtheflapexteriorfabrictosewseveraltinystitchesatregularintervalsalongtheruffle.SeeFiggClipthechainhandleontotheD-ringsofthehandleloopsandgofindaparty!
FigfPullgentlyonthethreads(soastonotsnapthem)andgatheruptheruffles.
FiggToavoidthestitchesshowingontheliningsideoftheflapdonotstitchthroughalllayers.
4:LiningsWhiletheexteriorofyourbagshouldbeavisualtreat,theliningofyourbagshouldbejustasdelightfultolookatandtouse.Asyoureadthroughthisbookandtryyourhandatsomeoftheprojects,you’llnoticethatliningsaremadefromthesamepatternasthebagexterior.You’llalsonoticethattheprocessofassemblingtheliningtogetherisalmostidenticaltotheprocessofassemblingtheexterior(withoneortwoexceptions,whicharedescribedineachproject).Withthisinmind,thischapterisn’tabouthowtoconstructliningsbecausethatisalreadycoveredineachproject.Instead,itwilllookathowtomaketwotypesofzipinnerpocket.Itthenlooksattwodifferentmethodsforinsertingtheliningintoyourbags.
Quickcuts…Becausetheliningisoftencutfromthesamepatternastheexterior,youcansavesometimewithclevercuttingtechniques(seeFabricCuttingTips).
InnerPocketType
Benefits SuggestedUses
FlushZipPocket
Versatile,usefulandunobtrusive–keepsitemssafeandsecureinsideyourbag.Canbedecorativeusingacontrastingcolourzip.
Mainlyusedinliningsbutcanalsobeusedonbagexterior.
ZipPartitionPocket
Acleverpocket,whichnotonlyoffersincreasedorganizationbutalsoasecurezip-topedge.
Onlyusedinlinings.Greatforfoliocases,crafttotes,day-tripperbags,orvanitycases.
LiningInsertion Benefits SuggestedUses
InsertionMethod
Benefits SuggestedUses
Drop-In
Createsminimumdisturbancetothebagexterior.Liningcanbeshorterthanexteriorfabrictotaketheweightofbagcontents.
Firm,rigidbagsandthosemadefromfragileorstretchyfabricssuchasknittedwoolandcrochet.
PullThroughandTurnOut
Usefulwhenbaghandlesareheavybecauseyoudon’tneedtoholdthehandlesoutofthewayasyoustitchtheliningandtheexteriortogether.Bestforheavierbagsastheliningandexteriorarestitchedtogethertwice.
Softerstructurebagsandlargerheavy-dutybags.
FlushZipPocketThisisaneminentlyusefulandeasy-to-makepocket.Thoughthistypeofpocketisoftenfoundonabagliningthere’snothingstoppingyoufrompoppingazippocket(or
two)ontheexteriorofyourbagstoo.SeeFlushZipPocket.
Line‘emup…Theliningisanothergreatexcusetointroducemorecolourandpatterntoyourbag,nottomentionfeaturessuchaspocketsandzips.
ZipPartitionPocketThispocketbelongsinthebaglining.Notonlyisitusefulforaddingadividerintoyourbag,thezipperedtopalsomeansthatthispocketcanstoreyourHolyHandbag
Trinity:keys,moneyandphone.SeeZipPartitionPocket.
FlushZipPocketThisisprobablymymostcommonlyusedtypeofpocketbecauseit’ssouseful.Aflushzippocketistheperfectsolutionforkeepingimportantitemssafe.Thisstyleofpocketisusuallyplacedupandawayfromthebottomofyourbag.
Youwillneed
•Nylonall-purposezip,atleast10cm(4in)shorterthanthewidthofyourpocket(seetip)
•2piecesoffabricforthepocket.TogaugethewidthandheightofyourpocketfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow
•Ruler•Hand-sewingneedle•Zippersewingmachinefoot•Seamripper•6mm(1⁄4in)double-sidedtape•Disappearingmarker
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourpockettobeandaddtwolotsofseamallowance.Thepocketfabricwidthshouldalwaysbeatleast8cm(31⁄8in)longerthanyourzip.
Togaugetheheightofyourpocketfabricdecidehowhighyouwantyourpockettobe(measuringfromthezipitselftothebottomedgeofthepocket)andadd5cm(2in).Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeupyourpocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.
1Trimthezip–ifyourzipistoolong,trimittothedesiredlength.Cutthezipfromthezippullside.Ensurethatyouleaveatleasta2cm(3⁄4in)clearanceforthezipsideseamallowance.SeeFiga.
FigaTrimtheziptosizefromthezippullend.Ensurethatyouleavea2cm(3⁄4in)clearancetothesideofyourcutforthezipsideseamallowance.
Cutdowntosize…Itdoesn’tmatterifyourzipistoolongbecauseitcanbetrimmedtoyourdesiredlength(seestep1).
2Stitchthezippullendstogether–takeahand-sewingneedleandhandstitchthezippullendstogether.SeeFigb.
FigbHandstitchthezippullendstogetherforaprofessional-lookingzip–youdon’thavetobeveryneatasthesehandstitcheswon’tbeonshow.
3Markandmakeaholeforthezip–takeyourzipandmeasurethelengthofthezipteeth(notthelengthofthezipitself).Nowdrawarectangleaswideasyourzipteethby1cm(3⁄8in)highontotheWScentreofoneofthepocketfabricpieces.Thisrectanglewillbetheholeforyourzipanditneedstobedrawnatleast5cm(2in)downfromthetopedgeofyourpocketfabric.Finally,inthemiddleoftherectangledrawacentrelinewithaV-shapeatbothends.SeeFigc.
Figc1–c2Togaugethewidthoftherectangle,measurethelengthofthezipteeth(notthewholezip).Therectangularholeneedstobedrawnatleast5cm(2in)downfromthetopedgeofpocket
fabric.
4Stitchthepocketfabricpiecetoyourbagfabric–placethepocketfabricWSUontoyourbagfabricpieceatleast7cm(23⁄4in)downfromthetopedgeofyourbagfabrictoprovideenoughclearanceforyoutoaddinternalfasteners(ifusing)andforyoutosewyourliningtoyourexterioratalaterstage.Pinthepocketpieceintopositionandstitchthepocketfabrictothebagfabric–stitchonlyontherectangle.SeeFigd.
Figd1–d2Thereisaclearanceof7cm(23⁄4in)betweenthetopedgeofthepocketfabricandthetopedgeofthebagfabric;stitchonlyalongtherectangleoutline.
5Cuttherectangularholeandfeedthefabricthroughthehole–usingtheseamrippermakeasmallincisioninthecentrallineoftherectanglelargeenoughforyourscissors.Youneedtocutthoughbothlayersofthefabric.Cutalongtheentirelengthofthecentralline.AlsocutalongtheV-shapes,butavoidcuttingintothestitchingoftheouterrectangle.SeeFige.
FigeCutalongthecentralline.WhenyoureachtheV-shapes,cutintothemaswell,butdon’tgettooclosetotheouterrectanglestitching.
6Feedthepocketfabricthroughthehole–pullthepocketfabricthroughtherectangularholetotheWSofthebagfabric(asifyouarepostingafabricletter)SeeFigf.ThoroughlyirontheRSandtheWSoftherectangularhole.
FigfPulleverypieceofthepocketfabricthroughtherectangularhole.
7Stitchtheziptothebagfabric–applyastripofdouble-sidedtapetobothlongedgesoftheRSofthezip(sothattheedgesofthetapeandthezipmatch)andpeeloffthebackings.TakeyourbagfabricRSUandplacetherectangularholeontothezip.Manipulatetheedgesoftherectangleuntilitislyingevenlyonthezipandthezipispositionedperfectlycentralwithintherectangle.Pressdowntobond.Attachthezipperfoottoyoursewingmachineandstitchallaroundthezip2mm(1⁄16in)fromtheedgeoftherectangle.SeeFigg.
Figg1–g2Thezipistapedintoastraightandevenpositioninsidetherectanglereadytobesewntothebagfabric;stitchallalongtheedgeoftherectangletosecuretheziptothebagfabric.
8Assembletherestofthepocket–turnyourbagfabricoversothattheWSofthepocketandthezipisfacingup.PlacetheremainingpocketfabricWSUontothepocketpiece(withzipattached).Foldthetopedge
ofthebagfabricdownoutofthewaysoyoucanbeginpinningandstitchingalongthetopedgeofthepocket.Pinandstitchallaroundthepocket.Asyousew,ensurethebagfabriciskeptoutofthewaytoavoidstitchingthroughit.SeeFigh.Thepocketisnowcomplete.
FighThepocketpiecesarepinnedtogether.Thebagfabricisfoldedoutofthewaytoavoidsewingthroughitwhilethepocketisstitchedtogether.
ZipPartitionPocketThisinnerpocketdoesdoubledutyasabagliningpartitionandasasecuretopedgepocket.Thistypeofpocketisonlysuitableforflatbags(orbagsthatareflatatthesidesandhaveaflatbottom)soisnogoodforbagsthathavesidepanelsorgussets.Thisstyleofpocketisusuallyplacedupandawayfromthebottomofyourbag.
Youwillneed
•Nylonallpurposezip,atleast10cm(4in)shorterthanthefinishedwidthofyourbag
•2piecesoffabricforthepocket.TogaugethewidthandheightofyourpocketfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow
•Ruler•Hand-sewingneedle•Zippersewingmachinefoot•6mm(1⁄4in)double-sidedtape•Disappearingmarker
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedbagtobethenadd10cm(4in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedbagtobe28cm(11in)wideyourpocketfabricwillneedtobe38cm(15in)wide.
Togaugetheheightofyourpocketfabricdecideonthefinishedheightofyourpocket,multiplythemeasurementbytwo,andadd2cm(3⁄4in).Ifyouwantthefinalheightofyourpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe32cm(121⁄2in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeupyourpocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.
1Trimtheziptothedesiredlengthandstitchthezippullendstogether–followingsteps1–2ofFlushZipPocket.
2Stitchtheliningandtheexteriorpocketpieces–withRSfacingoutfoldoneofthepocketpiecesinhalfbybringingtheshortedgestogether.Ironthefoldededge.Repeatwiththeotherpocketpiece.Openbothfabrics,bringRST,andpinatthecentrecrease.MeasureandmarktheholeforthezipteethalongthecentreWSofthecrease.SeeFiga.Stitchalongthecreaselinefromtheedgestoppingatthezipteethmarkings.Repeatfromtheotheredge.Sewstrongsecuringendstitches.
FigaPinthetwopocketpiecesRSTandmaketwomarksalongthecentreofthecreasefortheziphole.
3TurnpocketfabricRSO–flipthelefttoplayerofthepocketovertotherightandflipthebottomlayertotheright.YoushouldbeleftwiththeRSofbothpocketfabricpiecesfacingout.Ironthefoldededgesofthezipholetomakenicesharpcreases.
4Stitchtheziptothebagfabric–followingstep7ofFlushZipPocket.
5Stitchtheshortedgesofthepocket–openthezip.Flipthelayersoverasinstep3sothattheWSarefacingout.Pinandstitchbothshortedgesofthepocket.Irontheseamsopen.
6TurnthepocketRSO–holdthepocketupbyoneoftheshortedgessothatyoucanseethezipRSUthoughtheopensides.Withyourfree
handreachinthroughtheopenside,gripthezipedgethenpullthefabricdownovertheopenzip.SeeFigb.Rearrangethefabricpocket,smoothoutbumpsandiron.Thepocketisnowreadytobeaddedtothelining.
Figb1–b2HoldthepocketattheoneoftheshortedgessothatyoucanseethezipRSUinthroughtheopensides.Reachinsidetheopensidetograbthezip.Thenpullthefabricoveryour
handtoturnthewholepocketRSO.
7Insertthepocketintoyourbaglining–justbeforeyoustitchyourliningfabricpiecestogether,layyourpocket(withzipfacingup)ontotheRSofoneofthebagliningpieces.Decidehowfardownyouwantthepockettositinyourbag.Iliketoplacemypartitionpocketsatleast7cm(23⁄4in)downfromtherawtopedgeofthelining(thisleavesenoughroomforanytopedgefastenersandforsewingtheliningtotheexterioratalaterstage).Positionthepocketcentrallywidthwaysontheliningfabricandpinsecurelytothelining.You’llseethatthepocketiswiderthantheliningfabricpiece–justincase!BringthetwoliningpiecesRSTthussandwichingthepocketinbetweenthelining.Pinandstitchthelining.Trimofftheexcesspocketfabricfromthesideseamsofthelining.See
Figc.Youarereadytocontinuewiththeconstructionoftherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).
Figc1–c2Useplentyofpinstosecurethepocketinpositiontothebagliningfabricpiece;trimtheexcesspocketfabricfromthesideofthelining.
Pocketwidth…Thesideseamsofthispocketaresewnintothesideseamsofyourlining.Therefore,thewidthofthispocketisthesameasthewidthofyourbag,plus10cm(4in)(seeNeedToKnow).
InsertingLinings:Drop-InMethodThismethodisparticularlyusefulwhenyourbagshaveafirmandrigidconstructionbecauseitcreatesminimumdisturbances(inotherwordslesscrunchingandscrunching)tothefirmexteriorwhenstitchingtheliningandtheexteriortogether.Thismethodisalsoveryusefulifyourliningisshorterinheightthanyourbagexterior(seetipbelow).Youwillneed
Youwillneed
•Yourconstructedbaglining•Yourconstructedbagexterior•Baghandles(ifusing)•Pinsorminibulldogclips•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth
Needtoknow
Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Theseamallowanceforthetopedgeofmybagsisneverlessthanthis.Thismethodisabitquickerthanthepull-throughmethod(seeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod),butitrequiresmoreaccuracybecausethereislessroomforerrorinyourliningandexteriorpatterncuttingandseamallowances.
1Constructyourbaglining–insertanyliningpockets(ifusing),stitchallaroundthebottomandsideedgesofyourlining(donotleaveanygapsintheseams).WiththeliningWSOfolddownthetopedgebyyourseamallowance(seeNeedtoknow).SeeFiga.BringthefoldededgetotheWSoftheliningandironthefoldusingapressingcloth.
Shortandsweet…Ifyourbagexteriorismadefromfabricthatisfragileorpronetostretching(likeknittedwoolorcrochet)ashorterliningwilltaketheweightofyourhandbagessentials–thusavoidingthedreaded‘saggybag’.
FigaNeatlyfoldthetopedgeoftheliningdownbyyourseamallowance.
2Makeupyourbagexterior–withtheexteriorRSOfolddownthetopedgebyyourseamallowance.BringthefoldededgetotheWSoftheexteriorandironthefold.SeeFigb.
FigbNeatlyfoldthetopedgeoftheexteriordowntotheRSbyyourchosenseamallowance.
3Addtheliningbagtotheexteriorbagandinsertthebaghandles–placethelininginthebagexterior.TheWSoftheliningandtheexteriorshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Matchupthefoldedtopedgesandsideseams.Usepinsorminibulldogclipstoholdtheliningandtheexteriortogetherandbegintopstitchingallaroundthetopofthebag.SeeFigc.Asyouapproachthesideseams,stopsewingandleavetheneedleinthedownposition.Takeoneofthehandleloopsofyourbaghandles–ifusing(foldedinhalfwithD-ringorbaghandleattached)andinsertit(withtheD-ringpointingupwards)inbetweentheliningandexterior.Tuckthehandleloopdownintothebagasfarasdesired.Holdthehandleloopfirmlyinplacewithyourfingersandresumetopstitching(overtheloop).Repeatwiththeotherhandleloopandtopstitchallroundthetopedge.SeeFigd.
FigcNeatlymatchthetopedgesoftheliningandtheexterior.Clip/pintogetherandstitchallaroundthetop.
FigdHoldthehandleloopinplaceatthesideseamwithyourfreehandasyoustitcharoundthesideseamofthebag.Slowlydoesit.
Frayaway…Ifyouareworkingwithfabricthatfrayseasily,increasethesizeofyourseamallowancewhenstitchingtheliningandexteriortogether.Remembertoaddontheextraseamallowancetoyourpattern.
InsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethodThismethodissuitedtosoftstructurebagsanditisparticularlyusefulwhenyourbaghandlesareheavy.Thisisbecausethehandlesareattachedtothebaginthe‘down’positionsotheydon’tneedsupporting(ortobekeptoutofthewayofyourstitching)duringbagconstruction.Youwillneed
•Yourconstructedbaglining•Yourconstructedbagexterior•Baghandles(ifusing)•Pinsorminibulldogclips•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth
Needtoknow
Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Theseamallowanceforthetopedgeofmybagsisneverlessthanthis(seealsoFrayAway…).Thismethodtakesalittlelongerthanthedrop-inmethod(seeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethod),butitismoreforgivingwhenitcomestofittingyourliningandexteriortogetherbeforepinningandstitching.
1Assemblethebaglining–makeupyourbaglining(includingaddinganyliningpocketsifusing).Asyoustitchyourliningtogetherleavealargeenoughgapinthebottomorsideedgeforturningout.
2Assemblethebagexterior–makeupyourbagexterior.TurnyourbagexteriorRSO.
3Stitchthehandlestothebagexterior–withready-madebaghandles(ifusing)attached,stitchbaghandleloopstotheRStopedgeofthebagexterior.Thehandleloopsneedtobepointingdownwards.SeeOpen-EndStrapsandThePiping-HotHobo,step4.Orattachhandmadebagstraps(ifusing)tothebagexteriortopedge.Thebagstrapsneedtobepointingdownwards.SeeOpen-EndStrapsandThePiping-HotHobo,step4.SeeFiga.
FigaStitchyourbagstrapsWSOintotheRStopedgeofthebagexterior.
4Addtheliningtotheexterior–placethebagexteriorRSOintothebagliningWSO.TheRSoftheliningandtheexteriorshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Matchtopedgesandsideseams.SeeFigb.
Mysterymovements…Evenifyouareprecisewithyourpatterncuttingandseamallowances,fabricscanstretchormovearound–it’smysterious,butithappens!Usingthismethodyoucanslightlystretchorsquashtheliningtofitifitisaless-than-perfectmatch.
FigbFullyinserttheexteriorRSOintotheliningWSO.
5Pintheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–usepinsorminibulldogclipstoholdtheliningandtheexteriortogetherandstitchallroundthetopedge.Reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.SeeFigc.
FigcGentlypulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthegapinthelining
6Replacetheliningbackintotheexterior–atthesametimeturntheliningRSOandpushtheliningintotheemergingbagexterior.Stitchthegapintheliningshutbypushingtherawedgeintotheholeandtopstitchingtheopenedge.SeeFigd.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebagusingapressingcloth.
FigdNeatlypushtherawedgesofthegapintheliningintotheholeandtopstitchitshut.
7Finishingtouches(optional)–topstitchthetopedgeofthebagforextrastrengthandaneatanddecorativefinish.
Makeit…TheOrganizedOfficeBagPerfectforguysorgals,thisbagisabitmorespecialthantheaveragemessengerbag.Insideyou’llfindplentyofstoragespace,organizerpockets,andanoptionalharnesstokeepyourpreciouslaptopsafelystrappedagainstthebackofthebag.Thetwistlockclosuresonthebagnotonlylookreallyprofessional,theyaresafeforusewithyourlaptoptoo.Whetheryouaretakingittowork,collegeorthelocalcoffeeshop,thisbagwilllookthebusinessasmuchasyoudo!
AdjustablestrapEnsureyouhaveultimatecomfortasyoulugaroundyourmobileofficewithafullyadjustablestrap.
SideviewThedeepgussetprovideslotsofstoragespaceforyourlaptop,notepads,documentfoldersandlunch.
InteriorKeepyourstationery,keys,walletandwaterbottleallorganizedintheirownpockets.Theadjustableharnesswillpreventyourlaptopfrommovingaroundinsidethebag.
Needtoknow
Mediumtoheavyweightfabricisbestforthisbagbecauseitneedstobeabletocopewithheavyloadsandprovideprotectionforyourcomputerandgadgets.Inthisbagthewovenfusibleinterfacingisappliedtotheexteriorfabric.Thefusiblefleeceisappliedtotheliningfabric.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstated.
Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
Youwillneed
•1pieceofhomedecfabricforexterior,1m(1yd)x137cm(54in)wide•1pieceofhomedecfabricforlining,1m(1yd)x137cm(54in)wide•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Medium-weightwovenfusibleinterfacing,1m(1yd)•Fusiblefleece,1m(1yd)•Ultra-firmfusibleinterfacingforflapandfrontmainbodyreinforcement,50cm(1⁄2yd)
•2rectangularrings,4cm(11⁄2in)•1metalslider,4cm(11⁄2in)wide•2D-rings,4cm(11⁄2in)(optional)•Allpurposezip,30cm(12in)•1pieceofelastic,18cmx5mm(7x3⁄16in)•Seamripper•Pressingcloth•Seamallowanceguide(optional–seeSeamAllowanceGuide)•Disappearingmarker
PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:
FromTheOrganizedOfficeBag(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric•2xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece
•1xultra-firmfusibleinterfacing(fromthebottomhalfofthepattern–seepatternmarkings)
FromTheOrganizedOfficeBag(flap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xultra-firmfusibleinterfacing(fromthebottomhalfofthepattern–seepatternmarkings)
TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:
•2pieceseachofliningandexteriorfabric,52x12cm(201⁄2x43⁄4in),forthegusset
•2pieceseachofwovenfusibleinterfacingandfusiblefleece,52x12cm(201⁄2x43⁄4in),forthegusset
•2piecesofliningfabric,32x15cm(121⁄2x6in),fortheliningflushzippocket
•1pieceofliningfabric,18x12cm(7x43⁄4in),fortheliningpenholder•2piecesofliningfabric,18cm(7in)square,fortheelasticized-toppocket•1stripofexteriorfabric,130x14cm(51x51⁄4in),forthehandleloopsandadjustablestrap
•2piecesofliningfabric,26x18cm(101⁄4x7in),forthelaptopharness(optional)
•1stripofliningfabric,30x14cm(12x51⁄2in),forthelaptopharnessstrapandloop(optional)
Theinterfacing,gusset,strapandlaptopharness
1Interfacetheexteriorflapandexteriormainbodyfront–taketheultra-firmfusibleinterfacingpatternpiecesandtrimoff1.5cm(1⁄2in)fromtheside,bottom,andcurvedcorneredges.Takethemainbodyultra-firminterfacingpieceandplaceitontotheWSofthemainbodyfrontfabricpiece.Ensurethereisa1.5cm(1⁄2in)fabricmarginallaroundthebottomandsideedgesofinterfacing.Ironinplace.Repeatwiththeflapultra-firminterfacingandflapfabricpiece.
2Interfacethefabricpieces–matchthewovenfusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorfabricpatternpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.IronthefusiblefleecepatternpiecesontotheWSofalloftheliningfabricpieces.
3Stitchthegussetfabricpieces–taketheexteriorgussetpiecesRST,pinandstitchoneoftheshortedges.Irontheseamopen.Repeatwiththegussetliningpieces.OpenouttheexteriorgussetRSOtomakeonelongstripandmakenotchmarkingonbothlongedgestomatchthenotchmarkingsonthebottomedgeofthemainpatternpiece.Repeatwiththelininggusset.SeeFiga.
FigaThesenotchmarkingswillhelplatertoensurethatyousewastraight(anduntwisted)gussettothebag.
4Makethehandleloops–takethehandleloop/adjustablestrapfabricandcutoffa16cm(61⁄4in)pieceandfollowthestepsinOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.Dividetheresultingstrapintotwoequallengthsandthreadarectangularringontoeachofthehandleloops.
5Maketheadjustablestrap–taketheremainderofthehandleloop/adjustablestrapfabricandfollowthestepsinClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrapandsetaside.
6Makethe(optional)laptopharnessloopandstrap–takethelaptopharnessstrapandloopfabricandcutoffa20cm(8in)piece,thenfollowthestepsinClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap.TaketheremainderofthelaptopharnessstrapandloopfabricandfollowthestepsinOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.ThreadthetwoD-ringsontotheharnessloop.
7Makethe(optional)laptopharness–roundoffthetopedgecornersoftheharnessfabricpiecesifdesired.PlaceoneoftheshortedgesoftheharnessstrapontothecentretopedgeRSofoneoftheharnesspieces.Matchtheedges,pinandstitchinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.BringtheharnessfabricpiecesRST,matchalledges,pinandstitchalongthetopandsideedges.Irontheseamsopen,clipthecornersorcurvesasappropriate.TurnRSOandironusingapressingcloth.SeeFigb.
FigbOnelaptopharnessandharnessloopreadyforstitchingintothelining.
Thebagexterior
8Insertthetwistlockbuttons–followstep2inTwistLocktoinsertthetwistlockbuttonstothebagexteriorfrontatthetwistlockmarkings.
9Stitchtheexteriorgussettotheexteriormainbody–bringthebagexteriormainbodyfrontandtheexteriorgussetpiecesRST.Ensurethejoinonthegussetispositionedinthecentrebottomedgeofthebagexterior.Matchthenotchmarkingsontheexteriorgussetwiththenotchesonthemainbodyandpinandstitchtogether(onthegussetside)alongthebottomandsideedges(seeGussets).Clipthecurvedseamsandirontheseamsopen.Repeatwiththeexteriorbackfabricandgusset,onlythistimepinandstitchonthemainbodyside.Trimofftheexcessgussetfabricatbothgussettopedges.SeeFigc.TurnthebagRSOandironusingapressingcloth.
FigcCutoftheexcessfabricoffboththeshortedgesofthegusset.Ialwaysmakemygussetstoolong,justincase.
10Pinandstitchthehandleloopstotheexteriorgusset–takeoneofthehandleloops(foldedinhalfwithrectangularringstillattached)andplaceitontothecentretopedgeoftheexteriorgussetpiece.Matchuptherawedgesofthehandleloopandthegusset.HoldthehandleloopinplacewithyourfingersandstitchtotheRSbagexteriorwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigd.Repeatwiththeotherhandleloop.
FigdStitchthehandlelooptotheexteriorgussetsotherectangularringispointingawayfromtheedgeofthefabric.
Thebaglining
11Makeuptheliningpenholder–takethepenholderfabricpieceandstitchazigzagalongonelongedgeandbothshortedges.WiththepenholderfabricpieceRSUfoldunderthezigzagedges1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefolds.Topstitchalongthelongfolded(zigzag)edge3mm(1⁄8in)awayfromtheedge.Measureandmarkthreeequidistantverticallinesonthepenholderfabricforthepenholderdividerlines.SeeFige.
FigeMeasureandmarkthepocketdividerlinesontheliningpocket–besuretouseadisappearingmarker!
12Makeuptheelasticized-topliningpocket–taketheelasticized-toppocketfabricpiecesandelasticandfollowsteps1–4ofElasticized-TopPockettomakeanelasticized-toppocket,butdonotstitchthepockettotheliningyet.
13Stitchthepenholderandelasticized-toppockettotheliningmainbodyfront–takeoneoftheliningmainbodypiecesRSUandpositionthepenholderRSU4cm(11⁄2in)infromthesideedge(totheleftorrightsideofthemainbodyfabric,asdesired).Matchthebottomedgesoftheliningmainbodyandthepenholderandpin.Stitchthepenholdertotheliningalongthesideedgesanddividerlinesofthepenholder.Repeatwiththeelasticized-toppocketandtheoppositesideofthemainbodyliningfabric.SeeFigf.
FigfStitchthepenholderandelasticized-toppocketsidebysideonthebottomedgeofthemainbodylining.
14Makeupandinserttheflushzippocket–takethetwoflushzippocketfabricpiecesandthezipandinsertaflushzippocketintothecentreoftheliningmainbodypiece(withthepenholderandelasticized-toppocket)4cm(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.SeeFlushZipPocket,steps2–8.
15Stitchthelaptopharnessandlooptotheliningmainbodyback–ifnotmakingthelaptopharnessproceedtostep17.TaketheotherliningmainbodypieceRSU(withnopockets)andpositionthebottomedgeoftheharnessRSOontothecentrebottomedgeofthemainbodyliningfabricpiece.Pinandstitchinplaceonthebottomedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.TakethefoldedharnessloopwithD-ringsattachedandplaceitontotheRScentretopedgeofthebagmainbodyliningfabricpiece.Matchuptherawedgesoftheharnessloopandthe
bagliningfabric,pinandstitchinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.
16Stitchthelininggussettotheliningmainbody–stitchinthesameaswayasforstep9,exceptleavea15cm(6in)gapinthemiddleofoneofthesideedgesforturningout.
Thebagflap
17Stitchtheflap–bringexteriorflapandliningflappiecesRST.Matchupalledges,pinandstitchallaroundthesidesandbottom.Clipthecurves,irontheseamsopen,turntheflapRSOandironusingapressingcloth.Attachtheseamallowanceguide(ifusing)toyoursewingmachineandtopstitchtheflapallaroundthesideandcurvybottomedgeswitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
18Applythetwistlockfrontplates–followTwistLock,steps4–6toinsertthetwistlockplatestotheRSofthebagflapatthetwistlockmarkings.
Assemblingthebag
19Stitchtheflaptothebagexterior–pintheflapWSUtotheRSofthebagexterior.Placetheflapontothecentretopedgeofthebagexteriorback.Matchuptherawedgesandstitchtheflaptotheexteriorbagbackwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigg.
FiggPintheflaptothebagexteriorandstitchitinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.
20Stitchthebagliningtothebagexterior–inserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Pinallaroundthetopedgeandstitchallaroundthetopedge.SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps4and5.
21TurnthebagRSO–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Stitchthegapintheliningshutbypushingtherawedgesofthegapintheliningintotheholeandtopstitchingshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebagusingapressingcloth(payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge).SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps5and6.
22Topstitchthetopofthebag–withthebagflapopentopstitchallaroundthebagtopedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
23Attachtheadjustablestraptothebag–followsteps2–3ofAdjustableStrapstoattachtheadjustablestrap.
AboveThedaysofcarryingaseperatehandbag,bookbagandlaptopbagareover–thisofficebagdoesitallinoneorganizedpackage!Makeitinamodernfabricsuchasthisgraphicprintfor
areallystylishlook.
5:ClosuresClosuresareanessentialcomponenttoallbutthesimplesttotebags.Withoutasecurefasteningonyourbagyou’dhavethecontentsspillingouteverywherewhilerunningforthebusandyou’dalsobemakinglifeeasyfor‘naughtyfingers’.Butjustbecausebagclosuresarefunctionaldoesn’tmeantheyhavetolookboring.Experimentwithpositioningandchoosingyourfasteningtypeandyou’llendupwithbagclosuresthatlooklikeeye-catchingdesignfeatures.Ashinymetalclasphereandaslantedzipperthere…zhushupyourbagswithclosuresthatarejustasfunastheyarefunctional.
Theprofessionals…It’sworthgettingtogripswiththedifferenttypesofsnapsandzips–aneatlyinsertedclosurewillgiveyourbagsasuper-professionalfinish.
ClosureType Benefits SuggestedUses
TopEdgeZip
Oneoftheeasierzipstomaster,perfectforsimpletotebags.
Cosmeticspurses,totebagsandcoinpurses.
ConcealedTopEdgeZip
Givesthetopofthebagaboxierlook.Asthezipishidden,thetopofthebaglooksveryneat.
Totebags,document/laptopbagsandshoulderbags.
BoxTopZip
Addsspaceandaflatsurfacetothetopedgeofthebag.Greatforboxierbags.
Overnightbags,sports-stylerounddufflebags,over-the-bodysatchelsandhold-alls.
MagneticSnap
Quickandeasytoapply,versatile,neatandinexpensive.
Manytypesofbags,pocketflaps,walletandjournaltabclosures.
Snap inexpensive. journaltabclosures.
InvisibleMagneticSnap
Snaphasaflatprofileandisconcealedsogivesaneatandflushappearancetothebagflap.
Manytypesofbags,pocketflaps,walletandjournaltabclosures.
TwistLockHighlydecorativeandprovidesfastaccesstoyourbag.
Messengerbagflaps,pocketflaps,bagtabclosures,journaltabclosures.
EyeletsandRivets
Quicktoapply.Greatforusingonlotsoflayers.
Attachingmanytypesofhandlesandstraps,andaddingdecorativefeatures.
Zips
Theymaysendshiversintomanyanewbagmaker,butzipsaresoeffectiveandusefulthattheyarehardtoavoidandbesides,theyareactuallyquiteeasytouse.Therearethreebasictypesofzip:
Therearethreebasictypesofzip:
•conventional(alsoknownasnon-separating)•separating•invisible
Mostbagmakerstendtosticktotheconventionalvariety–theothertwotypesaremorefordressmaking.Havefunchoosingaziptouseonyourbagandplaywithyourcolourchoice.Thezipcolourdoesn’talwaysneedtomatchthebagfabric.Howaboutazingycontrastingcolouredzip?
TopEdgeZipTheseareveryusefulandquickandeasytoapply.Ifyouhaven’tusedazipinbagmakingbefore,attemptthistypeofzipfirst–you’llbedelightedwiththeresultsandbereally
proudofyourself.SeeTopEdgeZip.
ConcealedTopEdgeZipThistypeofzipisonefortheshow-offs.It’snothardtodo,itjusttakesabitlongertoapply.You’llberewardedwithaprofessionallookingclosurethatishiddenfromviewfromtheoutsideofyourbag(somebagdesignsjustcallforthis);you’llgetmorespaceatthetopofyourbag;andaprettyflashofcolourattheentranceofyourbag.SeeConcealedTop
EdgeZip.
Putonweight…Experimentwiththeweightchoiceofyourzips,matchingandcontrastingthemwithyourfabricweight–chunkycanlookfunky!
BoxTopZipThisisperfectforwhenyouwantthetopofyourbagtozipshutleavingthemaximumamountofvolumeatthetop.Thetopofyourbagwillhaveaflatprofileandyoucanmakethedepthasdeepasyouwant(without
overdoingitproportion-wise,ofcourse).SeeBoxTopZip.
Needtoknow
Zipsareavailableinarainbowofcoloursandinmanydifferentlengths,weightsandmaterials,suchasbrass,nickelandnylon.Theheavierthezipthemorewearandtearitcanstand.Conventionalzipsareclosedatoneendsothatthezippullcan’tbepulledoffthezip.
Snapsandlocks
Usedsinglyorinpairs,snapsandlocksareafantasticallyversatilewaytofastenyourbags.Notonlyaretheypractical,butlikeanygoodaccessory,theycandressabagupordown.Forexample,magneticfasteningslookgreatonanurban
dressabagupordown.Forexample,magneticfasteningslookgreatonanurbanmessengerbag,andarequicktoopenandclose.Atwistlockaddsatouchofold-schoolglamourtoaposhhandbag,andtheyhaveasatisfyingly‘grown-up’feelwhenyou’reusingthem.
MagneticsnapsAsetofmagneticsnapscomprisestwometalwashersandamale(non-magnetic)part,whichisattractedtoafemale(magnetic)part.Theyareaseasytoapplyas
makingacuppa;infacttheyweremyfirstforayintotheworldofshinymetalbagbits.Theyaresimple,cleanlooking,versatileandinexpensive.Magneticsnapsareavailableinvarioussizes,coloursandshapes,butroundandrectangulararethemostwidelyavailable.SeeMagnetic
Snaps.
Oppositesattract…Beforestitchingthesnaphalfinpositionjustquicklycheckthatitwillattracttheotherhalfandwillnotrepelitinstead.
InvisiblesnapsAsetofinvisiblemagneticsnapscomprisestwoparts,bothofwhicharelow-profilemetaldiscs(whichareattractedtoeachother)enclosedinaclearPVCpad.Theymaynotlookveryexciting,butinvisiblesnapsaresousefulwhenyouwantamagneticclosurethatisflatinprofileandishiddenfromview.Sometimesyoudon’twanttoseeyourmagneticsnapbecauseyouwantyourpurseorbagtoworktheminimalistlook,orwantyourclosuretobeniceandflat(likeyouperhapswouldonadaintysizedclutchorajournalcover).SeeInvisibleMagnetic
Snaps.
Pullingpower…Magneticsnapsareavailableindifferentheights–standardandlowprofile(foraslimmer,lowerfatlook).Thelargerthemagnetsnapthestrongerthepullingpower.
TwistlocksAscrew-intypetwistlockcomprisesafrontplate,atwistbuttonandawasher.Twistlocksareavailableinawiderangeofmetalcolours,shapesandsizes.Poponeofthese
fasteningsonyourbagforasuperprofessionallook.IntermsoffunequalsfunctionIdon’tthinkyoucanbeatatwistlock,theyareaninstantwayforyourhandmadebagstomoveintotherealmsofhandcraftedarmcandy.Iftwistlocksmakecrazy-pricedesignerhandbagslook
expensive,they’llworkatreatonyourhandmadebags.SeeTwistLock.
EyeletsandrivetsSomehardwarecomeswithitsowninstructions.You’llfindallthepartsrequired,plusthetoolstoapplythem,inthepack.
EyeletsThesearesoversatileinbagmaking.Notonlyaretheyquicktoapply,theycanhandleumpteenfabriclayersandyoucanhookorthreadallmannerofthingsthroughtheeyeletssuchaschain,bagstraps,metalwareorpipedbaghandles.
Inbagmaking,eyeletsareasusefulastheyaredecorative.Useeyeletstoattachyourbagstraps,ringsandsnapsontoorusethemfordrawstringclosuresorevencorset-styledecorativelacing.Picktheperfectsizedeyeletforthewidthofyourbagstrap,snaphookorlaceetc.ortryoversizedeyeletsforacool,decorativedesignfeature.Anyeyeletkitwillcomewithdetailedinstructionsonhowtoapplytheeyelets.Readtheinstructionscarefullythendiveinandhavefunaddingeyeletswhereveryouwantthem.
RivetsThesearesuperusefulinbagmaking,Iloveusingthem.Rivetsareusedtostronglyjoinfabricstogetherand/orasadecorativetrim.
Usethemwhenevertherearetoomanylayersforyoursewingmachine,orwhensewingistooawkward,orevenwhenyouaresimplyinahurry!Thereareoftentimeswhenyourbagstrapistoothicktobesewntoyour(already)layer-tasticbagandthisiswhererivetscansavetheday.Notonlyaretheyeffective,theylooksoprofessional!You’llneedtoinvestinaholepunchandarivetkit(whereyou’llfindinstructionsonhowtoapply).TheyaresimpletogetthehangofandI’msurethatonceyoudoyou’llberivetingallovertheplace!
Livingtogether…Ifinstructionscomewiththehardware,makesureyoulocatethemandkeepitalltogethersothatthey’rehandyfornexttime.
TopEdgeZipThistutorialshowsyouhowtoinsertatopedgezipintoapencilcase,butthemethodwouldbethesameforatotebag,forexample.Zipsmaylookscary,buttheyarequitesimpletoapply.Startoffwiththistopedgeziptechniqueandyou’llwonderwhyyoustayedawayfromthemforsolong.
Youwillneed
•Nylonall-purposezip,20cm(8in)•2piecesofhomedecexteriorfabric,24x10cm(91⁄2x4in)fortheexteriormainbody
•2piecesofhomedecexteriorfabric,4x3.5cm(11⁄2x13⁄8in)fortheziptab•2piecesofliningfabric24x10cm(91⁄2x4in)fortheliningmainbody•Zippersewingmachinefoot•Pins•Pointytool(suchasaknittingneedle)
Needtoknow
Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.
1Trimthezipwiththeziptabs–takeoneoftheziptabfabricpiecesRSUandfoldunderoneoftheshortedges1cm(3⁄8in).PlacethefoldededgeoftheziptabontotheRSofoneoftheendsofthezipandstitchalongthefoldededge.SeeFiga.Therawziptabedgeshouldmeetthezipendedge.Repeatwiththeotherziptabandtheotherendofthezip.
FigaFabrictabsonthezipwillmaketheziplieflatatthetopcornersofthecaseandalsohelptomakeitlookpretty.
2Attachonesideofthezipontoonesideofthepencilcase–makeazippersandwichasfollows.Startingfromthebottom:liningfabricpieceRSOonthebottom,zipRSOinthemiddle,andexteriorpieceWSOonthetop.Carefullyandneatlymatchupalloftheedgesandpinthelayersatthelongtopedge.SeeFigb.Attachthezipperfoottoyoursewingmachineandstitchthroughthethreelayers,alongthepencilcasetopedge.Stitchwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.
FigbMakeupathree-layeredzippysandwichasshown.
3TopstitchthezipontheRSofthepencilcase–flipthelayersoversothattheexteriorandthezipisRSO.Topstitchneatlyalongthefoldededgeoftheexteriorfabric.Repeatsteps2and3withtheothersideofthezipandtheexteriorandliningfabricpieces.SeeFigc.
Figc1–c2Topstitchalongthefoldededge–thisshouldbetheresult:onezipinsertedneatlyintoyourliningandexteriorfabrics.
4Pinandstitchthepencilcasetogether–nb:ensurethezipisunzipped.FlipthefabriclayersoversothattheRSoftheliningpiecesaretouchingeachotherandtheRSoftheexteriorpiecesaretouchingeachother.Matchuptheedgesallaroundandpin–thezipwillnaturallycurvetowardsthelining.SeeFigd1.Stitchallaroundthepencilcase,butleaveagapof8cm(31⁄8in)inthebottomedgeofthelining.SeeFigd2.Clipoffallcorners.
Figd1Pinthecaseasshown,thezipwillnaturallycurveuptowardsthelining.
Figd2Followingthedrawnline,stitchalongthesidesandbottomofthecaseleavingagapinthelining.
Carefulclipping…Whenclippingoffallthecorners,takeextracarenottocutthroughyourstitches.
5Turnthepencilcaserightsideout–reachintothegapintheliningandthroughtheopenziptoturnthepencilcaseRSO.SeeFige.Sothat’swhythezipneededtobeopen!Pushallthecornersoutusingapointytoolsuchasafatknittingneedle.
6Stitchthegapintheliningshut–foldtherawedgesofthegap1cm(3⁄8in)intothehole,pressandtopstitchtheholeshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthecase.
FigePulltheexteriorcaseoutthroughtheholeinthecaselining.
ConcealedTopEdgeZipThisbagtopzipclosurelooksveryneatandprofessionalbecausethezipishiddenfromview.
Youwillneed
•Nylonall-purposezip.Chooseazipthatis4cm(11⁄2in)longerthanthetopedgeofyourbagliningpatternpieces.Ifyourliningpatternpieceis28cm(11in)wideatthetopedge,yourzipshouldbe32cm(121⁄2in)long
•2piecesoffabrictomatchyourzip,yourliningoryourexterior,8x5cm(31⁄8x2in)fortheziptab
•2piecesoffabricforthezipcasing,2.5cm(1in)shorterthanyourzip(measuredfromzipfabricendtofabricend).Thecasingcanbeaswideasdesired,butafinishedwidthof4cm(11⁄2in)looksgoodformediumtolargebags.Forafinishedcasingwidthof4cm(11⁄2in)thecasingfabricpiecesshouldbe13cm(51⁄8in)wide
•Zippersewingmachinefoot
Needtoknow
Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Thisstyleofzipisappliedtothebaglining.InsertthistypeofzipclosureBEFOREyouassemblethebaglining.IfyouwanttoaddanyinternalbagpocketstotheliningyoushouldaddthemBEFOREyouinserttheconcealedtopedgezip.
1Trimthezipwiththeziptab–bringtheziptabfabricpiecesRST,pinandstitchtogetherallaroundthesidesandbottom,leavinga4cm(11⁄2in)gapforturningtheziptabRSO.TurntheziptabRSOthoughthegapandiron.Taketheclosedzipendandfoldtheziptabinhalfoverthezippullend(soastoencasethezipend).Matchalledgesoftheziptab,pinandtopstitchallaroundtheziptabtothezippullend.SeeFiga.
FigaTheziptablooksprofessionalanditgivesyousomethingtograbholdofwhenopeningandclosingthezip.
2Makeupacasingforbothsidesofthezip–takeoneofthezipcasingfabricpiecesWSOandfoldinbothshortedges1cm(3⁄8in).Thenfoldinhalflengthways,ironalongthecreaseandopenout.Finallyfoldinthelongedgesintothecentrecreaseyouhavejustmade.SeeFigb.Repeatwiththeotherzipcasingpiece.
FigbFoldinbothshortedges1cm(3⁄8in);foldthecasinginhalflengthwaysandopenout;foldthelongedgesintothecentrecreaseandfoldinhalfsothecasingresemblesabookjacket
cover.
3Pinthezipintothezipcasing–firstunzipthezip.WiththezipRSUtaketherawendofthezip(whichhasnoziptabattached)andfoldandpinthezipfabricendtothecasing(whichisopenedout).SeeFigc.Pinthezip3mm(1⁄8in)fromthefoldededgeofthezipcasing.Repeatwiththeotherzipcasingandziphalf.
FigcTherawendofthezipisfoldeddownsothezipstopsjustshortoftheshortedgeofthecasing.Foldingthefabricendofthezipdownlikethiswillneatlyconcealtherawedgeofthezip
insidethefinishedcasing.
4Stitchtheziphalfintothecasing–attachthezipperfoottoyoursewingmachineandturnthecasingRSO(stillopenedoutandwiththezippinnedon).Topstitchthezipintopositioninthecasingalongthelongedge.Turnoverthecasingandfolditclosed.Topstitchallaroundtheopenedgesofthecasingtotrapthezipinside.SeeFigd.
Figd1–d3Topstitchingthezipintoposition;topstitchingaroundthecasing;theresult.
Perfectsymmetry…Takecaretopositionthesecondzipcasinghalfassymmetricallyasyoucanorthezipwon’tlookgood,orworkwell.
5Attachtheziptoyourbaglining–unzipthezipand,workingwithonehalfofthezipatatime,measureandmarkthecentreofyourzipandalsothecentretopedgeofyourbagliningpiece.Decidehowfardownyouwouldlikeyourconcealedziptositinsideyourbag–agoodguideis3cm(11⁄8in)downfromthefinishedtopedge.So,afteraddingonatopedgeseamallowanceof5mm(3⁄16in),positiontheconcealedzip3.5cm(13⁄8in)downfromthetopedgeofthebagliningfabric.PinandtopstitchthezipcasingRSOtotheRSoftheliningalongthetopedge.SeeFige.
Repeatwiththeothercasinghalfandbagliningpiece.Andthereyouhaveoneconcealedtopedgezipinsertedintoyouliningpieces.Youcannowcompletetheconstructionofyourliningandtherestofyourbag(seeConstruction).
Fige1–e2Thezipcasingispinnedintopositiontoyourbaglining.
BoxTopZipThiszipclosureisonefortheshow-offs!Itlooksreallyprofessional,addsanothersplashofcolouranditaddsloadsofroomtothetopandsidesofyourbag.
Youwillneed
•Nylonall-purposezip•2rectanglesofexteriorfabricfortheziptop/sidepanels•2rectanglesofliningfabricfortheziptop/sidepanels•2rectanglesofexteriorfabricforthezipbottompanels•2rectanglesofexteriorfabricfortheziptabs•Zippersewingmachinefoot
Needtoknow
Thiszipisinsertedintothetopandsidepanelsofyourbag.Therefore,thiszipisonlysuitableforboxyshapedbags.Chooseazipthatisthesamelengthasthedesiredzipopeninglength,suchas80cm(311⁄2in).Thebagyouaremakingwilldictatethedimensionsofthefabricsneededtomakethisstyleofzip.ForthisreasonyouwillfindthefullinstructionsaspartofTheGreatGetawayBag.Haveagoatinsertingaboxtopzipintothatprojectfirstandyou’llthenbeabletoinsertoneintoyourowndesignbags.Whenusingaboxtopzip,addanyinternalpocketsBEFOREyouassemblethelining.
Generaladvice
Generaladvice
•Aboxtopzipisformedofnineparts:azipper,twolongexteriorfabricpanelsforthetopandsideedges,twolongliningfabricpanelsforthetopandsideedges,twoexteriorbottompanels,andtwoliningbottompanels.
•Whentheabovepartsareallstitchedtogetherthelengthoftheboxtopzipshouldequalthecombinedlengthofbothsidesandthetopedgeofthebag.
•Thetwolongexteriorfabrictop/sidepanelsaremachinestitchedeithersideofthelongedgesofthezipandthenbottompanelsarestitchedtotheshortendsofthezip(withtop/sidepanelsattached).Theexteriorzipisthenreadytobeattachedtoyourbagexterior.SeeFiga.
FigaThezipbottompanelandtheziptoppanelarestitchedRST,thenthezipbottompanelisfoldeddownandtopstitchedalongthetopfold.
•Fortheboxtopziplining,thebagliningisfullyconstructedwithallzippanelsstitchedtogether,minusthezip,whichleavesalong,thin
rectangularholealongthetopandsidesofthebagliningtowhichthezipwillbestitched.SeeFigb.
FigbThebagliningismadeupinthesamewayasforthebagexteriorexcepttherearenoziporzippartstoinsert.Youwillbeleftwithaliningbagthathasalong,thinrectangularholealongthe
top.
•Thebagliningisthenstitchedtothebagexterioralongthebagbottomedgeseamsandfinallytheedgesofthelongthinholeintheliningarehandstitchedtothefabricofthezip.
SnapsAmagneticsnapclosureissospeedyandeasytoapply.However,ifyouthinkthatavisibleclosurewouldspoilthelookofyourbag,tryusinganinvisiblemagneticsnapinstead.
YouwillneedMagneticsnap
•Magneticsnap•2squaresoffusibleinterfacingformagneticsnapreinforcement,2.5cm(1in)
•Seamripper
Invisiblemagneticsnap
•Invisiblemagneticsnap•Zippersewingmachinefoot
Needtoknow
Evenifyourfabricisheavy,it’sessentialtoreinforcethemagneticsnapareaofthefabric.Thisisbecausethefabricwillbeputunderrepeatedstrainbythepullingofthemagnet.InvisiblemagneticsnapsareusuallysewntotheinterliningorontotheWSofthebaglining.Ifyourbagismadefromafewfabricandinterfacinglayers,oryourfabricsareontheheavyside,cutasmall,roundmagnet-sizedholethoughyourinterlininglayers(ifusing).Thisexposesthemagnetsoitdoesn’tlooseitsstrengththroughallofthelayers.
InsertsnapsBEFOREassemblingyourbaglining,bagexteriororbagflap.
Magneticsnap
1Reinforcethemagneticsnapfabricarea–ironaninterfacingsquaretotheWSofthefabricwhereyouhavechosentoinsertyourmagneticsnap.Repeatwiththeotherinterfacingsquareandtheotherfabricpiece.Ifyouareapplyingyoursnaptotheexterior(forexample,forbagorpocketflaps)ofyourbagandyouareusinginterlining,atthispointyouneedtolayyourexteriorRSOontoyourinterliningpieceandtreatthembothasonelayer.
2Makeincisionsforthesnapandapply–usingaseamripper,maketwotinyincisionsthroughallofthefabriclayersforthemagneticsnapprongs.TakeonehalfofthemagneticsnapandpushtheprongsthroughtheincisionsthroughRSofthebagfabric.Placeametalwasherovertheprongsatthebackofthebagfabricandpushtheprongsdownfirmlyawayfromeachother.SeeFiga.Repeatwiththeothermagneticsnaphalf.
FigaViewofmagneticsnaphalffromtheWSofthebag.Pushtheprongsdownfirmly.
Invisiblemagneticsnap
1Preparethemagneticsnaparea–ifusinginterlining(asdescribedintheboxabove)cutasmallholethoughyourinterliningtoexposethemagnet.SeeFigb.Ifyouarenotusinginterliningproceedtostep2.
FigbExposingthemagnetbycuttingthroughthelayerswillhelpthemagnetretainitspullingpower.
2Stitchtheinvisiblesnaptoyourbagfabric–attachthezipperfoottoyoursewingmachineandstitchonehalfoftheinvisiblesnaptothemagneticsnapmarkingonthefabric.Sewinaboxformationaroundthemagnet.Repeatwiththeothersnaphalf.
TwistLockThere’snothinglikeabitofshinymetalonabagtomakeyouthink‘ohhpretty’!Twistlocksnotonlylooklovelybuttheyarealsouseful.Popatwistlockonyourbagtoinstantlyelevateitfrom‘homemade’to‘handcrafted’.Itworkseverytime…
workseverytime…
Youwillneed
•Twistlock(sometimesknownasaturnlock)•2squaresoffusibleinterfacingforreinforcement,2.5cm(1in).•Seamripper•Smallsharpscissors•Smallscrewdriver•Disappearingmarker
Needtoknow
Evenifyourfabricisheavy,it’sessentialtoreinforcethetwistlockareaofthefabric,asitwillbeputunderrepeatedstrainbytheweightandthepullingofthetwistlock.Twistlocksworkbestonbagsmadefromheavierfabricsorseverallayers.Thisisbecausethesemetallockscanbeheavyandyourbagneedstobeabletosupporttheweightwithoutsagging.ThetwistbuttonpartofthelockisappliedtothebagexteriorBEFOREyouassembletheexteriorbag.Thefrontplatepartofthelockisinsertedattheveryend,AFTERyouhaveassembledyourbag.
1Reinforcethetwistlockfabricarea–ironaninterfacingsquaretotheWSofthefabricwhereyouhavechosentoinsertyourtwistlock.Ifyouareapplyingyourtwistlocktotheexteriorofyourbagandyouareusinginterlining,atthispointyouneedtolayyourexteriorRSOontoyourinterliningpieceandtreatthembothasonelayer.
2Applythebuttonpartofthetwistlocktothebagexteriorfrontofyourbag–usingaseamripper,maketwotinyincisionsthroughalllayers(yourexteriorfabricandyourinterlining)fortheprongsofthebuttonpartofthelock.Ensurethelockissittingniceandstraightatthefrontonyourbag.PushtheprongsofthebuttonpartofthelockthroughtheincisionsontheRSofthebagfabric.Slipametalwasherovertheprongsatthebackofthebagfabricandpushtheprongsdownfirmlytowardseachothersothatthelockissecuredintoposition.SeeFiga.
Figa1–a3Maketwotinyholesfortheprongs;slipthewasherovertheprongsattheback;theresult–onenice,straighttwistbutton.
3Finishmakingyourbagflapandyourbag–makeupyourbagflap.Asyouaredoingthisdon’tforgettoreinforcethetwistlockareaofyourbagflap(asinstep1).Finishmakingupyourbagbeforeapplyingthetwistfrontplatetothebag.
4Markthefrontplatepositionontoyourbagflap–withyourbagassembled;pullyourbagflapdownoverthetwistbuttonpartofthelock(asifyouareclosingtheflaponyourbag).Markthepointonthebagflapwheretheflapfallsdirectlyontothetwistbutton.Unscrewthescrewsonthefrontplateandyou’llseethatonehalfofthetwistplatehasaraisedlip(top).Useadisappearingmarkertodrawontotheraisedlip(includingtheoutersideofthescrewholes).PresstheinkytwistplateontotheRSofthebagflapatthemarkingyoumadeearlier.Theinkimprintthatgetsleftbehindwillserveasacuttingguideforthenextstep.SeeFigb.
Figb1–b3Markthefrontplatepositiononyourflap;inktheraisedlipoftheopenedupfrontplate;pressthefrontplatedowntoleaveaninkimprintforuseasacuttingguide.
Callforreinforcements…Youcanusewhateverweightofinterfacingyouhavetohand.Ifyouthinkthatyourinterfacingistoolightweighttryfusingacoupleofinterfacingsquaresontopofeachother.
5Cutaholeforthefrontplate–usingthecuttingguidethatyoumadeinthepreviousstep,usesmallsharpscissorstocutaholethatisslightlysmallerthantheinkimprint.Whencuttingtheholetakeyourtime,cutabitandthentesttheplate,thencutabitandtestandsoon.
6Assemblethefrontplateontoyourbagflap–sandwichthebagflapinbetweenthefrontandbackhalvesofthefrontplateattheholeyoumadeinthepreviousstep.Theshinyfrontpartofthefrontplateis
positionedontotheRSofthebagflap,andthebackpartoftheplategoesonthebackoftheflap.Screwinthescrewsofthefrontplateatthebackofthebagflap,atthesametimeensurethatthefrontplateholeiskeptfreeofanystraybitsoffabric.Youmightneedtostretchandtugthefabricaroundtheholealittletoaccommodatethefrontplate.SeeFigc.
Figc1–c2Viewofthefrontplatefromtheliningsideofthebag;here’stheresultviewedfromtheback.Screwingoneofthescrewsintothelockwillmakeitmucheasiertoremoveanystraggly
bitsoffabricfromtheholeinthelock.
Onesnipatatime…Theholeyoucutmustbeslightlytoosmallorthetwistplatewillnotbeheldintightlybythefabric,makingitunsecure.
Makeit…TheOversizedFashionistaBagThisroomybagisacuteandquirkytakeontheclassicclutchbag.Thebag’schi-chimetalaccessoriesandclosureslookoh-soexpensivewhilebeingtotallyfunctional.Themetaltwistlockclosureandtheeyeletsaddbothstyleandsubstancetothedesign.There’sevenazipinsidethebagtoo.Thegirlsjustaren’tgoingtobelievethatyouwhippedupthisgorgeousbagyourself!
SideviewThebagdartsaddasoft3Dsilhouetteandalittlevolumetothebag.
ShoulderstrapTheremovablemetalchainstrapmakesaninterestingfeature.
LiningpocketAflushzippocketensuresallofyoursmaller-sizedessentialsaresecureandeasytoaccess.
Needtoknow
Aheavierfabricisbestfortheexteriorofthisbagbecauseofthebag’ssize.Fabricsuggestionsincludevelvet,heavywools,realorfauxleatherorsuede,cotton,canvasordenim.Ifusingleather,onlypinintheseamallowancesoasnotto‘scar’thematerialwithpinholes.FormoreadviceonworkingwithleatherseeFabricTypes,Faux/RealSuede.Besuretouseajeanssewingmachineneedleifusingheavyfabrics.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
Youwillneed
•1pieceofhomedecfabricforexterior,1m(1yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide•1pieceoffabricforlining,1m(1yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide•1pieceofmediumorfirmfusibleinterfacing,1m(1yd)•2piecesoffusiblefleece,1m(1yd)•Nylonzip,18cm(7in)•Flexi-tube,39cm(153⁄8in)•Heavypursechain,28cm(11in)•2metaleyelets,14mm(1⁄2in)•4boltsnaps,2.5cm(1in)•2D-rings,12mm(1⁄2in)•Twistlock•Zippersewingmachinefoot
PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:
FromFashionista(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric•2xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece
FromFashionista(flap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece
Transferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarker.Alsocut:
•2piecesofliningfabric,28x20cm(11x8in),fortheflushzippocket•2piecesofexteriorfabric,6x11cm•(23⁄8x43⁄8in),fortheshoulderstraploops•1pieceofexteriorfabric,56x18cm(22x7in),fortheshoulderstrap•1pieceofexteriorfabric,10x5cm(4x2in),fortheshoulderstrapchainloops
•1pieceofexteriorfabric,50x15cm(191⁄2x6in),forthepipedhandle•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,5cm(2in)square,forthetwistlockreinforcement
Theinterfacing,strapandhandle
1Interfacetheexteriorfabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerfabricpatternpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.IronthetwistlockreinforcementinterfacingsquarestotheWSofthebagexteriorfrontandthebagexteriorflappieces,behindthemarkingsforthetwistlock.Finally,ironthefusiblefleecepatternpiecesontotheWSofalloftheexteriorfabricpieces(directlyontothefusibleinterfacing).
2Maketheshoulderstrap–threedifferentpartsthatarecombinedtomakethestrapasfollows:
•Shoulderstrapchainloops:taketheshoulderstrapchainloopfabricpieceandfollowthestepsofOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.DividetheresultingstrapintotwoequallengthsandthreadasmallD-ringontoeachofthechainloopstraps.
•Shoulderstrap:taketheshoulderstrapfabricpieceandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap.Beforeyoutopstitchallaroundtheclosedstrap,placeashoulderstrapchainloop(foldedinhalfwithD-ringstillattached)ateitherendoftheshoulderstrap.Foldthestrap
shutandstitchallaroundtheshoulderstraptrappingthechainloopsinsideasyousew.Dividethepursechainintotwoequallengths.UseplierstoopentheendlinksandattachthechaintotheD-ringsontheshoulderstrap.SeeFiga.Settheshoulderstrapaside.
•Shoulderstraploops:taketheshoulderstraplooppiecesandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomaketwoclosed-endstraps.Threadtheboltsnapsontotheshoulderstraploopsandsetaside.
Figa1–a2Placefoldedchainloopsatbothshortedgesoftheshoulderstrap,stitchthestrapshut,attachthechainandthiswillbetheresult.
3Forthepipedhandle–takethepipedhandlefabricpieceandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap.NowfollowthestepsofPipedHandlestomakeonepipedhandle.Threadaboltsnapontoeitherendofthepipedhandle.Foldthefabricendofthehandleovertheboltsnapringandsecurelystitchthefabricenddown.SeeFigb.Setthepipedhandleaside.
FigbStitchthefabricenddownovertheringoftheboltsnap.
Thebagexterior
4Insertthetwistlockbutton–followstep2ofTwistLocktoinsertthetwistlockbuttontothebagexteriorfrontatthetwistlockmarking.
5Sewthedartsontheexteriorpieces–foldtheV-shapeofthedartinhalfRSTandstitchalongtherawedgeswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance,followingDarts,step2.Repeatwiththeotherthreedarts.
6Partstitchtheexteriorpiecestogetherandattachtheshoulderstraploops–becausethisbagismadefromseverallayersit’seasiertostitchshoulderstraploopstotheoutsideofthebag.Partstitchingtheexteriorpiecestogethermakesiteasiertostitchtheshoulderstraploopson,asitwillpreventyoufromgettingintoatanglewiththesewingmachine.PinandstitchthebagexteriorpiecesRSTatthesideseamsonly,13cm(51⁄8in)downfromthetopedge.NowturntheexteriorbagRSOandpressthesideseamsopen.Takeoneoftheshoulderstraploops(withboltsnapstillattached)andpositiontheloopatthepatternmarking.Holditinplacewithyourfingerandstitchtothesideseaminaboxformation(forstrength).SeeFigc.Repeatwiththeothershoulderstraploop.TurnthebagexteriorWSO.
Rivetrivet…Ifit’sallgettingtoolayeredup,oryouareworkingwithheavyfabrics,youcanrivettheshoulderstraploopsontothesideseaminsteadofstitchingthem.Thiswillbemucheasierandquicker.
FigcThestraploopandboltsnapneedtofaceuptowardsthetopedgeofthebag.
7Finishstitchingtheexteriorpiecestogether–pintherestofthebagexteriorpiecesRST.Whenmatchinguptheexteriorpiecestakecaretomatchupthedartlinesonbothofthefabricpieces.SeeFigdandDarts,step3.Sewallaroundthesidesandthebottomedgeoftheexterior.Clipthecurves,beingcarefulnottocuttheseams(seeUnderstandingPatterns).TurnRSO.
FigdForprofessional-lookingbagdartsmatchupthedartlinesatthefrontandback.
Thebaglining
8Insertaflushzippocketintothelining–takethezipandtheflushzippocketfabricpiecesandfollowthestepsofFlushZipPockettoinsertaflushzippocket.Insertthepocketintooneofthebagliningpiecesusingthepocketpatternmarkingsasaguide.
9Sewthedartsontheliningandstitchtheliningtogether–sewbothdartsandassembletheliningasinsteps5and7,butleaveagapof18cm(7in)inthebottomedgeoftheliningforturningout.
Thebagflap
10Stitchthebagflap–bringthebagexteriorandliningbagflappiecesRST.Matchupalledges,pinandstitchallaroundthesidesandbottom.Clipthecurvesandsnipthecorners.TurnthebagflapRSOandiron.Topstitchallaroundthesideandcurvybottomedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
11Applythetwistlockfrontplate–followingTwistLock,steps4–6.SeeFige.
FigeOneslick-lookingbagflapwithtwistlockplateattached.
AboveYoucangettotallydifferentlooksbyhavingfunwithyourfabricchoicesforthisbag.Howabouttryingasummershabbychiclookfromusingquiltedpastelcolouredpatchwork,fadeddenimwithasomecuteappliquéwork,orlinen/velvetfabrictrimmedwithacontrastfatpipededge(seePipedEdges?AndcheckoutthehotpinkwoolI’veusedhere–definitelynotyour
averagetweed!
Assemblingthebag
12Stitchthebagflaptothebagexterior–pintheflapWSUtotheRSofthebagexterior.Placetheflapontothecentretopedgeofthebagexteriorback.Matchuptherawedgesandstitchtheflaptotheexteriorbagbackwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigf.
FigfPinthebagflaptothebagexteriorandstitchitinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.
13Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–inserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.SeeFigg1.Matchuptherawtopedgesandsideseamsforneatness,pinatthetopedgeandstitchallaroundthetop.
Figg1Placetheexteriorbagcompletelyintotheliningbag.
14Turnthebagrightsideout–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.SeeFigg2.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Stitchthegapintheliningshutbypushingtherawedgesofthegapintheliningintotheholeandtopstitchingshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebag(payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge).
Figg2Gentlypulltheexteriorbagthroughtheholeyouleftinthelining.
15Applyeyeletstothebagflap–foldthebagdownatthebagflapcreasepatternmarkings.Ensuringtheflapiscentralandstraight,ironthetopedgeoftheflap.Stitchalinethoughthefoldedflap3cm(11⁄8in)downfromthefoldedtopedge.Followtheeyeletkitinstructionstoapplytheeyeletstothebagflapeyeletpatternmarkings(inbetweenthetopedgeandthelineofstitchingyouhavejustsewn).Clipthepipedhandleontotheeyelets.
16Finishingtouches–withtheflapopen,topstitchthebagtopedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowanceandcliptheshoulderstrapontotheshoulderstraploops.
Takeyourtime…Whenstitchingtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag,itwillbealittlebulky,particularlyatthebagofthebagwheretheflapissituated.Justtakeitslowlytogetaneatresult.
6:HandlesAndStrapsBaghandlesaresomuchmorethanmerestrapstokeepyourbagsoffthefloor.Whetheryouareplumpingforfabric,rope,metal,acrylic,woodorleatherhandles,theycanbeexcitingdesignfeaturesintheirownright.Experimentwithcolourandtexture–addsomeexpensive-lookingchainor‘upcycle’avintagescarfintosomeswishhandlesthatwillcarryoffyourbaginstyle.Thischapterlooksatvarioustypesofhandmadehandlesandhowtoattachthemtoyourcreations.Thetablebelowshowsthemorecommonlyusedhandmadebaghandlesandtheirbestuses.
Windowshopping…I’vealsoshownyousomeoftheready-madehandlesavailabletobuyiftimeisshort.
HandleType Benefits SuggestedUses
Open-EndStraps
Versatile,basicandstrong,Oneoftheeasiesttomake.Thesestrapsrequirenoextraaccessories.
Anytypeofbag.Makesmallerversionsforuseashandleloops–neededforattachingvarioustypesofhandlestoyourbags.
Closed-EndStraps
Asabove.Anytypeofbag.Alsoformsthebasisofadjustablestrapsandpipedhandles(seebelow).
Two-
Adecorativeandmoreprofessional-looking
Anytypeofbag,butlooksbestwherethebagislargeenoughto
Two-Faced
Straps
professional-lookingfabricstrapasthetwofabricsechotheexteriorandliningfabrics.
wherethebagislargeenoughtotakeawiderhandle(tomakethemostofthehandle’sdecorativelooks).
HookandRingStraps
Detachableandthemetalwaremakesthesestrapslookveryprofessional.
Anytypeofbag.Makesmallerversionsforuseasadetachablewriststraponwristletclutchesorevensmallerversionsforkeyloopstoplaceinbaglinings.
AdjustableStraps
Adjustableinlengthandprofessionallooking.
Largersizedbagsand/orbagswornacrossthebodysuchasmessenger/satchel/travel/hobo-stylebags.
PipedHandles
‘Designer’looks.Strong,upright,andcomfortabletouse.
Mid-tolargersizedhandbagssuchasdaytimefashionbagsandheavierhardworkingbagssuchasweekender/travelandhold-allbags.
Open-EndStrapsThesestrapsaresimple,quickandeffective.Becausetheyarefourlayersthicktheyarestrong.Thesestrapsaresewninbetweenyourliningandexterior.Youcanalsousethisstyleofstraptomakehandleloopsforattachingbaghandlestoyourbags,asshown
here.SeeOpen-EndStraps.
Closed-EndStrapsThesestrapsaremadeinsimilarwaytoopen-endstraps,butbecausetheendsareclosedyoustitchthesehandlesontothefrontofyourbagoryoucanaddmetalwareto
thestrapends.SeeClosed-EndStraps.
Two-FacedStrapMadefromtwodifferentfabrics(usuallytheliningandtheexteriorfabric),thesestrapsaremoredecorativethanthetwopreviousstraps.SeeTwo-FacedStraps.
HookandRingStrapsThesearefabricstrapsthathavetriggerhooksattached.Thesestrapslookgreatbecauseoftheadditionofmetalwareandthetriggerhooksmakethestraps
detachable.SeeHookandRingStraps.
AdjustableStrapsThesestrapsmightlookconfusingtomake,buttheyareactuallyveryeasyandtheyarereallysatisfyingtouseandtolookat.SeeAdjustableStraps.
PipedHandlesIfyouwantyourbagtobeabitofashowstopper,pipedhandleswilllookthepartandthey’llstanduptotheoccasion.Theytakealittlelongertoputtogetherbutareworththe
extraeffort.SeePipedHandles.
Open-EndStrapsThesestrapsarequickandeasytomakeandarestrong.Makesmallerandshorterversionsofthistypeofstrapforhandleloops–usedforattachingcertaintypesofbaghandlestoyourbags.Youcanaddmetalringstohandleloopsifdesired.Open-endstraps/handleloopsaresewninbetweenthebagliningandexterior.
Youwillneed
•Yourchoiceoffabricinyourchosenlength(plustwolotsofyourchosenseamallowance).seeNeedtoknowforhowtogaugethewidthofyourstrapfabric
•Theappropriateinterfacingorpaddingforyourchoiceoffabric(seeChoosingFabrics)
•Fusiblefleece(optional).SeeNeedtoknowforhowtogaugethewidthofyourstrapfleece
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourstrapfabric,firstdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedstraptobe.Takethatmeasurementandmultiplyitbyfour.Ifyouwantyourfinishedstraptobe4cm(11⁄2in)wide,yourstrapfabricneedstobe16cm(61⁄4in)wide.Forcomfort,addalittlefusiblefleecepaddingtotheinsideofyourstraps.Togaugethewidthofthefleecetakethefinishedwidthmeasurementofyourstrapanddivideitbytwo.Ifyourfinishedstrapis4cm(11⁄2in)wide,yourfleeceneedstobe2cm(3⁄4in)wide.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.
Makeupthebaglining,theexteriorandtheopen-endstraps/handleloops.ThenstitchthehandlesinplacetotheRSoftheexteriorBEFOREyoustitchtheliningandtheexteriortogether.
1Prepareyourbagstrapfabric–ensurethestrapfabrichasbeenironed,thenironthefusibleinterfacing(ifusing)totheWSofthebagstrapfabric.Thenironthefleecestrip(ifusing)tothecentreWSofthebagstrap.
2Foldandironyourstrap–withyourstrapfabricWSUfoldthestrapsothatitresemblesabookjacketcoverasfollows.WiththestrapfabricWSUfoldthefabricinhalflengthwaysandironthecentrecrease.Openoutandfoldthelongedgesofthefabrictothecentrecreaseandiron.Foldthewholestrapinhalflengthwaysagain.SeeFiga.
FigaFoldthestripoffabricsothatthefoldslooklikeabookjacketcover.
3Stitchthestrap–takethefoldedstrap,giveitanironandpinalongthelongopenedge.Topstitchalongbothlongedgesofthestrap.The
strapisnowcompleteandreadytosewontoyourbag(seeNeedtoknow).
Closed-EndStrapsAswithopen-endstraps,thesearequickandeasytomakeandarestrong.Makethesestrapswhenyouwanttomakeadjustablestrapsoryouwanttoattachtheendsofyourbagstrapsontotheexteriorsideofyourbag,orifyouwanttoaddmetalringsortriggerhookstothestrapends.
Youwillneed
•Yourchoiceoffabricinyourchosenlengthplustwolotsofyourchosenseamallowance.SeeNeedtoknowforhowtogaugethewidthofyourstrapfabric
•Theappropriateinterfacingorpaddingforyourchoiceoffabric(seeChoosingFabrics)
•Fusiblefleece(optional).SeeNeedtoknowforhowtogaugethewidthofyourstrapfleece
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourstrapfabric,firstdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedstraptobe.Takethatmeasurementandmultiplyitbyfour.Ifyouwantyourfinishedstraptobe4cm(11⁄2in)wide,yourstrapfabricneedstobe16cm(61⁄4in)wide.Forcomfort,addalittlefusiblefleecepaddingtotheinsideofyourstraps.Togaugethewidthofthefleecetakethefinishedwidthmeasurementofyourstrapanddivideitbytwo.Ifyourfinishedstrapis4cm(11⁄2in)wide,yourfleeceneedstobe2cm(3⁄4in)wide.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.Closed-endstrapsareusuallyappliedtobagattheVERYENDofbagconstruction.Ifyouwanttoaddthisstyleofstraptothefrontofyourbag,finishmakingupyourbagandstitchthestrapendstotheRSexteriorofyourbagthroughallofthelayersforstrength.
1Prepareyourbagstrapfabric–ensurethestrapfabrichasbeenironedthenironthefusibleinterfacing(ifusing)totheWSofthestrapfabric.Thenironthefleecestrip(ifusing)tothecentreWSofthestrap.
2Foldandironyourstrap–withyourstrapfabricWSUfoldbothshortedgesin1cm(3⁄8in)andironthecrease.Nowfoldthestrapsothatitresemblesabookjacketcoverasfollows.WiththestrapfabricWSUfoldthefabricinhalflengthwaysandironthecentrecrease.Openoutandfoldthelongedgesofthefabrictothecentrecreaseandiron.Foldthewholestrapinhalflengthwaysagain.SeeFiga.
FigaFoldintheshortedgesofthestrapbeforefoldingthestripoffabricsothatfoldslooklikeabookjacketcover.
3Stitchthestrap–takethefoldedstrap,giveitanironandpinalongthelongopenedge.Topstitchallaroundthestrap.Thestrapisnowcompleteandreadytosewontoyourbag(seeNeedtoknow).FigaFoldintheshortedgesofthestrapbeforefoldingthestripoffabricsothatfoldslooklikea
bookjacketcover.
Two-FacedStrapsQuickandeasytomake,thesestrapsaremoredecorativethanthepreviousstrapsbecausetheyusetwodifferentfabrics(usuallytheliningfabricandtheexteriorfabric).
Youwillneed
•Twodifferentfabrics(ideallyidenticalinweight)inyourchosenlength(plustwolotsofyourchosenseamallowance)xyourchosenwidth(plustwolotsofseamallowance)
•Theappropriateinterfacingorpaddingforyourchoiceoffabric(seeChoosingFabrics)
•Fusiblefleece(optional,forcomfort)inyourchosenstraplength(plustwolotsofseamallowance)xyourchosenwidth(plustwolotsofseamallowance)
•Alargesafetypinoraloopturnertool
Needtoknow
Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.Whenattachingthisstylestraptoyourbagtreatitlikeanopen-endstrap(seeOpen-EndStraps)bysewingitinbetweenthebagliningandtheexterior.Makeupthelining,theexteriorandthetwo-facedstrap.ThenstitchthestrapsinplacetotheRSoftheexteriorBEFOREyoustitchtheliningandtheexteriortogether(seeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,step3).
Ironwithcare…Beforetopstitchingthefinishedstrap,beprecisewhenironingthestrap.Youdon’twantanyoftheundersidefabrictooverhangandshowontherightsideofthestrap.
1Preparethestrapfabric–ensurethestrapfabrichasbeenironedthenironthefusibleinterfacing(ifusing)totheWSofthestrapfabric.Thenironthefleecestrip(ifusing)tothecentreWSofoneofthestrapfabricpieces.
2Stitchthestrap–bringyourstrapfabricsRST,pinandstitchalongthebothlongedgestoformafabrictube.Irontheseamsopenonbothlongedges.
3TurnthestrapRSO–usealoopturnerorpinasafetypintooneoftheshortedgesofthefabrictube.RolltherawedgeofthefabrictubeinonitselfandbeginpullingthesafetypinupinsidethetubesothatthetubebeginstoturnitselfRSO.SeeFiga.ContinueuntilthetubeisfullyRSOandremovetheloopturner/safetypin.
FigaHooktheendoftheloopturner/safetypinclosetotheedgeofoneoftheshortedgesand
pulltheloopturner/safetypinupinsidethetube.
4Stitchthestrap–ironthestrapandtopstitchalongbothlongedges.Thestrapisnowcompleteandreadytosewontoyourbag(seeNeedtoknow).
HookandRingStrapsAbitofmetalwareonyourbagisanearinstantwayofliftingitfromhomemadetohandmade.Oneoftheeasiestplacestostartexperimentingwithmetalwareonyourbagisthehandles.
Youwillneed
•Afinishedclosed-endstrap(seeClosed-EndStraps).Togaugethelengthoftheclosed-endstrapseeNeedtoknow
•2triggerhooksaswideasyourfinishedstrap•2D-ringsaswideasyourfinishedstrap•2–4rivetsandholepunch(optional)
Needtoknow
Togaugethelengthofyourstrapdecidehowlongyouwantthemaximumlengthofyourstraptobethenadd10cm(4in).Ifyouwantyourstraptobe80cm(311⁄2in)long,yourclosed-endstrapneedstobe90cm(351⁄2in)long.Ifyourfinishedstrapisthickyoucanrivetthehookintothestrap.Ifyourstrapisup2cm(3⁄4in)wide,onerivetshouldbesufficient,butifyourstrapiswiderthenusetworivets(seeEyeletsandRivets).Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.Treathookandringstrapsinthesamewayasclosed-endstrapsandapplythemtoyourbagattheVERYENDofbagconstruction.Usuallyyouwillhavemadehandleloops(seeOpen-EndStraps)withringsattachedsoyoucanclipthehookhandlesontotherings.Finishmakingupyourbagandsimplyclipthehookontotheringsofthehandleloop.
1Stitchthehookstothestrapends–takeyourstrapWSUandthreadoneendofthestrapthroughtheD-shapedringofoneofthetriggerhooks.FoldtheendovertheD-ringby2.5cm(1in)holdinpositionwithyourfingersandstitchthefabricendinplacewitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherendofthestrapandtriggerhook.
2Alternatively,rivetthehookstothestrap–takeyourstrapWSU,foldoneoftheendsoverby2.5cm(1in)andpunchaholefortherivet(s)5mm(3⁄16in)downfromtheedgeofthestrapthroughbothlayers.Ifthestrapmaterialistoothicktopunchtwolayersatonce,punchtheholethroughoneatatime(foldthestraptomarkthepositionoftwopunchholes).SeeFiga.ThreadtheendofthestrapthroughtheD-ringofthetriggerhookandrivetinplacefollowingthepackinstructions.
Strappingsuggestion…Youcanuseleatherstrapsandwebbingasanalternativetofabricstraps.
Figa1–a2Iftheleatherstrapisquitenarrowyoucanjustuseonerivet.
AdjustableStrapsThereissomethingreallysatisfyingaboutmakingandusingadjustablestraps.Notonlyaretheysuperpracticaltheyalsolookveryswish.
Youwillneed
•Afinishedclosed-endstrap(seeClosed-EndStraps).Togaugethelengthoftheclosed-endstrapseeNeedtoknow
•2D-rings,aswideasyourfinishedstrap,eachwithitsownhandleloop(madefromopen-endstraps
•1strapsliderthatisaswideasyourfinishedstrap
Needtoknow
Togaugethelengthofyouradjustablestrapdecidehowlongyouwantthemaximumlengthofyourstraptobe,thenadd10cm(4in).Ifyouwantthemaximumlengthtobe1m(39in),yourclosed-endstrapneedstobe110cm(43in)long.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.
AnadjustablestrapisattachedtoyourbagattheENDofbagmaking.Inordertoattachanadjustablestraptoyoubagyouwillneedtoattachhandleloops(seeOpen-EndStraps)withaD-ringattached.
1Attachthehandleloops–attachthehandleloops(withD-ringsattached)tothesideseamofyourbag(asTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step10)andcompletetheconstructionofyourbag(seeConstruction).
2Stitchthemetalslidertothestrap–takeyourstrapWSUandthreadoneendofthestrapthroughthecentrebaroftheslider.Pullthestrapendsoitisfreefromtheslider,pinandstitchthefabricenddown.SeeFiga.
FigaPullthestrapendthroughtheslidersothereisenoughclearanceforyoutostitchtheenddown.
3Continuethreadingthestrap–takethefreeendofthestrapandthreaditthroughtheD-ringofoneofthehandleloops.ThreadthestrapendbackthroughthesliderandthenthreaditthroughtheotherD-ringoftheotherhandleloop.StitchtheenddownensuringthestrapendisfoldedontotheWSofyourstrap.SeeFigb.Youradjustablestrapisnowstrappedinandgoodtogo!
Figb1–b2ThreadthestrapthroughoneoftheD-ringsandthenbackthroughtheslider.FinallyfoldtheendofthestrapundertheotherD-ringandstitchtheenddown.
AboveAnadjustablestrapinactiononthisverysmartlookingofficebag.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBagtomakeyourown.
PipedHandlesOfallthehandmadebaghandles,Ithinkpipedhandleslookthemost‘posh’andprofessional.Astheyareverystrongandcomfortabletohold,theyhavesubstanceaswellasstyle.
Youwillneed
•Afinishedclosed-endstrap(seeClosed-EndStraps).Togaugethelengthandwidthoftheclosed-endstrapseeNeedtoknow
•Alengthofflexi-tubeforstuffingthehandles.TogaugethelengthofthetubingseeNeedtoknow
•2triggerhooksaswideasyourfinishedstrap•Disappearingmarker
Needtoknow
Togaugethelengthofthefinishedclosed-endstrap,decidehowlongyouwantthelengthofyourpipedhandletobe,thenadd4cm(11⁄2in).Ifyouwantthelengthofyourpipedhandletobe50cm(191⁄2in)long,yourclosedendstrapneedstobe54cm(211⁄4in)long.Togaugethefinishedwidthoftheclosed-endstrap,measurearoundthecircumferenceofyourtubingandadd1cm(3⁄8in).Ifyourtubingis4cm(11⁄2in)around,yourclosed-endstrapneedstobe5cm(2in)wide.
Togaugethelengthofthetubingmeasurethelengthoftheclosed-endstrapandsubtract10cm(4in).Ifyourclosed-endstrapis54cm(211⁄4in)long,thetubingneedstobe44cm(173⁄8in)long.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.PipedhandlesareattachedtoyourbagattheENDofbagmaking.Usuallyyouwillhavemadehandleloops(seeOpen-EndStraps)withringsattachedsoyoucanclipthepipedhandlesontotherings.Finishmakingupyourbagandclipthehooksontotheringsofthehandleloop.
1Foldandstitchthepipedhandle–foldandpintheclosed-endstrapinhalfalongitslengthtoformafabrictube.Measureandmark5cm(2in)infrombothshortedges.Stitchthestrapalongtheopenedgewitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance,startingandstoppingyourstitchesatthe5cm(2in)markings.SeeFiga.
FigaStitchafabrictubeforthetubing.Stopandstartstitchingatthe5cm(2in)markings.
2Stuffthehandle–insertoneendoftheflexi-tubingintothefabrictube.Stuffthetubingintothefabrictubeuntilyoureachthe5cm(2in)markingattheotherend.Stitchalineofstitchesperpendiculartothe5cm(2in)marking.SeeFigb.Sewonelineofstitchesandstitchbackoverthelineinreverseforextrastrength.Thiswilltrapthetubinginsidethehandle.Repeatwiththeother5cm(2in)marking.
FigbStitchalineofstitchesat90degreestothe5cm(2in)markings.
3Attachthetriggerhooks–threadtheringofoneofthetriggerhooksontooneofthehandleends.Foldthefabrichandleendovertheringby2cm(3⁄4in)sothattheWSaretouchingandstitchtheenddown.Sewonelineofstitchesandstitchbackoverthelineinreverseforextrastrength.Repeatwiththeotherhookandhandleend.Thehandleisnowreadytouse.
Notriggerhookshandy?…StitchthehandleendsinaboxformationintotheRSofyourexteriorbagthroughallbaglayersattheendofbagconstruction,orsewthepipedhandleinbetweentheliningandexteriorbag.
SIXIDEASFOR‘UPCYCLING’ITEMSTOMAKEBAGHANDLES
Tryplaitingthreevintagescarvesandtyingmetalringsoneitherendforahandlethatwillbringbigimpacttoaplainbag.Tryweavingavibrantchiffonscarfthroughalengthoflarge-linkchainforaninstantlyglampursechainhandle.
Tryfelting100percentwoolitems(suchasjumpersandscarvesetc.).Simplywashthewooliteminyourwashingmachineat60degrees(orabove)onacottonscycle.Youshouldbeleftwithadensefelt-likefabricthathasalovelyfuzzytextureanddoesnotfraywhencut.Youmayneedtowashtheitemmorethanoncetoachievethedesiredtexture.Tryusingchunkybanglesforquickandeye-catchingwristlethandles.Tryhuntingaroundincharityshopsorthriftshopsforpre-ownedbagsandpursesandtakethemapartforspares.Ifyou’repatientyoucansometimessalvagesomenicevintagebaghardwaresuchasrings,purselocks,chainand,ofcourse,baghandles.Trysnippingofffabricstrapsfromoldbagsandthenembellishingthemwithprettyvintagebroochesfora‘shabbychic’mix-and-matchlook.
Ready-MadeHandlesTherangeofready-madebaghandleshasgrownvastly.Irememberthedayswhenitwasalljustbambooandplastic.Today,handbaghandlesareavailableinawidechoiceofmaterialssuchasrealandfauxleather,metalchain,wood,acrylicandLuciteinallofthecoloursoftherainbow.Someevencomewithfancymetalwarealreadyattached.Bagmakersarespoiltforchoice!
fancymetalwarealreadyattached.Bagmakersarespoiltforchoice!
WHYUSEREADY-MADEHANDLES?
Becausetheylookgreat–therearetimeswhenyouwanttomakeabagthatlookslesshomemade,andmore‘handmade’(ormaybeevenshop-bought).Addingasmart-lookingready-madebaghandletoyourcreationisaneasywaytoaddamorepolishedandprofessionallooktoyourbag.Eventhemostbasictotebagcanbe‘lifted’outoftheordinarybypoppingonapairofready-madehandles(seeTheVersatileBookBag).Becausetheyaremadefortheirpurpose–fabricstrapshavetheirlimitations.Fabricstrapsmaynotalwayslookright/perfectonyourbag.Dependingonthetypeofbagyouaremakingyoumayneedahandlethatislonger,stronger,waterproof,orhasfancymetalclips,ringsorcatchesattached.Thereareeventimeswhenyourbagfabric,whenfoldedtomakestraps,issimplytoothickforyoursewingmachine.Attimesliketheseready-madehandlesaresmartandstress-freealternativestomakingyourownhandles.Becauseyouwanttofinishyourbag–iftimeisrunningoutandyouhavealovedonewaitingontheirbagpresent,ready-madebaghandlesareextremelyconvenient!
AboveReady-madehandlescomeinanamazingchoiceofcolours,sothere’sboundtobeonetomatchyourfabric.
Typesofready-madehandles
Handlescanbecategorizedbytheirmethodsofapplicationtoyourbags.Someready-madehandlesrequirehandstitchingontoyourbag,whileotherhandlescansimplyclippedon,andyetothersrequiretheuseoffabrichandleloopsforexample.
Sew-onhandlesThesehandlesusuallyhavepre-punchedtabends.Hand-sewthesehandlestothefrontofyourbag(throughalllayersforextrastrength)usingbackstitchandtapestrythread.Youcanalsousedoubled-overqualitysewingthread,butit’snotquiteasstrongorasattractive
astapestrythread.
Clip-onhandlesThesehandlesorstrapshavestrongmetalclipends.Ensurethatyouselecthandleswithgoodqualityclips,forobviousreasons.Goodqualityclip-onhandleshavemetal
clipsthatarealmosttoohardtosqueezetogetherbyhandandtheclipsshouldbesetwithmetalteethtogripthefabric.Toapplythesehandles,placetheclipsoverthetopedgeofyour
completedbag,coverthetipsofapairhouseholdplierswithascrapoffabric(toprotectthehandlesfromscratches),andusetheplierstoclamptheclipsofthehandlesfirmlyshutoverthe
bagfabric.
TriggerhookendhandlesThesehandleshavetriggerhooksattachedtotheends.ThesetypesofhandlesareattachedtoyourbagviafabrichandleloopswithD-rings(seeOpen-EndStraps).ThreadtheD-ringsontothehandleloopsandstitchthehandleloops(withD-ringsattached)to
theRSofthebagexteriorbeforeyousewtheliningandtheexteriortogether(seeHookandRingStraps).
ChainhandlesThesehandlesaregreatformakingyourbagslookexpensiveandtheyareperfectforaddinginstantflashandsparkletoeveningandspecialoccasionbags.Toattachchainhandlesyouneedmetalrings(attachedtohandleloops,seeOpen-EndStraps)onyourbag.Tothreadtheendlinksofthechaintothehandleloopringsyoucaneitheruseplierstoprizetheendlinksopen,oryoucanaddtriggerhookstotheendsorthechainsothechaincanbeclippedon
andoff(seeTheCocktailRuffleClutch,step1).
Makeit…TheGreatGetawayBagThisisonetravelbagthatissuretogetadmiringglancesatthetrainstation,airportorhotel.Veryroomy,practical,andtotallypretty,thisbagwillhaulyourholidaygearinstyle,anditfitsintotheoverheadlockerontheplanetoo.Anicewideflatbasemakesthebageasytoseeintoandtopack,andlotsofpocketshelpkeepyourluggageorganized.Thisbagisaninvestmentmake–useyourfavouritebrightestfabricsandsetasidesomeeveningstomakeaprofessional-lookingbagthatyou’lllovetouseagainandagain.
FrontviewPerfectforthosewhocan’ttravellight,thisbagwillcarryloads.Butthankstoitssoftstructureyoucantakeitontheplanewithyou.
SideviewTheroomyfrontpocketisperfectforyourtravelessentialssuchaspassport,bookandMP3player.
InteriorInside,thebagisniceandwideandthepocketshelpyoutokeepthingsundercontrol.
Needtoknow
Inthisbag,thewovenfusibleinterfacingisappliedtotheexteriorfabric.Thefusiblefleeceisappliedtotheliningfabric.Ifyouaremakinganoilclothversionofthisbag,onlypinintheseamallowances,useanon-sticksewingfoot,andonlyironthefabricwithapressingclothusingagentleheat.Also,youwon’tneedfusibleinterfacingfortheoilcloth.Thisbagmakesusesaboxtopzip,socalledbecauseitgivesyouaniceandwidetopandsideedgewhichisperfectforlargerandboxierbags(seeBoxTopZip).Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstated.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
Youwillneed
•Ipieceofhomedecfabricforexterior,1m(1yd)x137cm(54in)•Ipieceofhomedecfabricforlining,1.25m(11⁄4yd)x137cm(54in)•1pieceofhomedecfabricfortrim,strapandpockettab,50cm(1⁄2yd)x137cm(54in)
•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Single-sidedfusiblefleece,1.5m(11⁄2yd)•Wovenfusibleinterfacing,1.5m(11⁄2yd)•Magneticsnapclosure,18mm(3⁄4in)•Chunkynylonzip(fortheboxtopzip),80cm(311⁄2in)•Nylonzip(fortheflushzippocket),18cm(7in)•Flexi-tubeformakingpipedhandles,76cm(30in),ORapairofready-madepipedhandles,45cm(173⁄4in)
•Strapslider,4cm(11⁄2in)•3rectangularrings,4cm(11⁄2in)wide•Largesizegridbagbottom•6bagfeet(optional)•Hand-sewingneedle•Disappearingmarker•Seamripper•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth
PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:
FromTheGreatGetawayBag(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric•2xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece
FromTheGreatGetawayBag(frontandliningpocket)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece
FromTheGreatGetawayBag(frontpocketflap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece
FromTheGreatGetawayBag(cornertrim)patternpiece(seeTemplates)•2xexteriortrimfabric
Thenturnthepatternovertocut:•2xexteriorfabric(inmirrorimage)
FromTheGreatGetawayBag(ziptoppanelsfortheboxtopzip)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric•1xfusiblefleece
Thenturnthepatternovertocut:•1xexteriorfabric(inmirrorimage)•1xfusibleinterfacing(inmirrorimage)•1xliningfabric(inmirrorimage)
•1xfusiblefleece(inmirrorimage)
FromTheGreatGetawayBag(zipbottompanelsfortheboxtopzip)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric•2xfusibleinterfacing•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece
TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:
•1pieceofexteriorfabric,2piecesofliningfabric,and1pieceeachoffusibleinterfacingandfusiblefleece,51x27cm(20x105⁄8in),forthebagbase
•2piecesofliningfabric,26x20cm(101⁄4x8in),fortheflushzippocket•2piecesofexteriortrimfabric,75x14cm(291⁄2x51⁄2in),fortheadjustablestrap
•1pieceofexteriortrimfabric,36x14cm(141⁄8x51⁄2in),forthehandleloops,pockettabandpockettabloop
•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,5cm(2in)square,forthehandleloopreinforcement
•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,2.5cm(1in)square,forthemagneticsnapreinforcement
•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,23x5cm(9x2in),forthehandlereinforcement
•2piecesofexteriortrimfabric,50x6cm(191⁄2x23⁄8in)tomakepipedhandles(ifusing)
•2piecesofexteriortrimfabric,9x5cm(31⁄2x2in)forthezipendsfortheboxtopzip
•2piecesofexteriortrimfabric,6x4cm(23⁄8x11⁄2in)forthezippullsfortheboxtopzip
Stayorganized…Therearequiteafewpiecestothisbag.Topreventconfusionit’sworthlabellingeachpieceasyoucutitandironingtheinterfacingpiecestotheirappropriatefabricpiecesassoonastheyarecut.
Interfacing,strapandhandlesandzippreparation
1Interfacetheexteriorandliningfabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorfabricpiecesandironthemtotheWSoftheexteriorfabricpieces.ThenmatchthefusiblefleecepatternpiecestotheirpartnerliningfabricpiecesandironthemtotheWSoftheliningfabricpieces.
2Makethehandleloops–takethehandleloop/pockettabfabricandcutoffa20cm(8in)piece.DividethatpieceintotwoequallengthsandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomaketwoclosed-endstraps.Threadarectangularringontoeachofthehandleloops.
BelowThelong,adjustablestrapwillmakethisbagabreezetocarryonyourtravels,eitheronyourshoulderorcross-bodyforatrulyhands-freeexperience.
3Stitchthehandleloopstotheexteriorziptoppanels–takeoneoftheziptoppanelpiecesRSU(withthestraightlongedgeontheleft)andmakeamarkinthecentreofthepanel18cm(7in),upfromtheshortbottomedge.TakeoneofthehandleloopinterfacingpiecesRSUandironittotheWSoftheziptoppanelpiecebehindthemarkyouhavejustmade.TurntheziptoppanelpieceRSUandtakeoneofthehandleloops(foldedinhalfwithrectangularringattachedandpointingupwards)
andplaceitontooneofthehandlelooppatternmarkingsontheRSexteriorziptoppanelpiece.Pininplaceandstitchtothepanelinaboxformationforstrength.SeeFiga.Repeatwiththeotherhandleloopandziptoppanelpiece.
FigaStitchthehandleloopinaboxformation,youcanalsostitchan‘X’intheboxifdesired.
4Maketheadjustablestrap–bringthetwopiecesofstrapfabricRST,pinandstitchalongoneoftheshortedgestomakeonelongstrap.IrontheseamopenandfollowthestepsofClosed-EndStrapstomakeoneclosed-endstrap(whichformsthebasisofanadjustablestrap).
5Makethepipedbaghandles–(ifusing),taketheflexi-tubeanddivideitintotwoequallengths.Takethepipedhandlefabricpiecesandfollow
thestepsofPipedHandlestomaketwopipedhandles(butdonotaddtriggerhookstothehandles).
6Makethezippulls–foldoneofthezippullfabricpiecesinhalfbybringingtheshortedgesRST,stitchalongbothsideedgesandclipthecorners.TurnRSOandiron.Repeatwiththeotherzippullfabricpiece.
7Stitchthezipendstothezip–takeoneofthezipendfabricpiecesRSU,foldunderoneoftheshortedges1cm(3⁄8in)andironthefold.PlacethezipendRSUontooneofthecentreRSshortedgesofthezip.Matchuptherawedgesofthezipendwiththeshortedgeofthezip.Topstitchthezipendtothezipalongthefoldededge3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge(seeTopEdgeZip,step1).Repeatwiththeotherzipend.
Thebagexterior
8Stitchthecornertrimstobottomofthebag–takeonethecornertrimpiecesWSUandfoldthecurvededgein1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefold.Clipthecurve,turnthetrimRSUandmatchtherawedgesonthebottomandsideedgesofthetrimtoaRSbottomcornerofonetheexteriormainbodypieces.Pinandtopstitchthetrimtotheexteriorallaroundthetrimwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherthreecornertrimpieces,butensureyouplacetwoofthecornertrimsontotheRSoftheexteriorpocketpiece.SeeFigb.
FigbPinandstitchtwocornertrimstoonebagexteriorpieceandstitchtheothertwocornertrimstotheexteriorpocketpiece.
9Maketheexteriorpockettab–takethehandleloop/pockettabfabric,cutoffa10cm(4in)pieceandfollowstep2ofClosed-EndStraps.Completelyopenoutthetabandmarkan‘X’forthemagneticsnap2cm(3⁄4in)upfromthebottomedgefold.SeeFigc.IrononeofthemagneticsnapfusiblereinforcementpiecesontotheWSofthetaboverthe‘X’markandapplythenon-magneticpartofthesnapbyfollowingstep2ofMagneticSnap.Foldupthetabandtopstitchallaround3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.
FigcUnfoldtheclosed-endstrapfabricandmarkan‘X’forthemagneticsnaphalfasshown.
10Makethepockettabloop–taketheremainderofthehandleloop/pockettabfabricandfollowthestepsofOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.Threadonthelastrectangularring,foldthestrapinhalfandstitchonthestrapclosetotherectangularringtotrapitinthecentreoftheloop.TakethepockettabWSU(withmagneticsnapinserted)andfoldthefreeedge2cm(3⁄4in)overtheringofthetabloop.Topstitchtheenddown3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.
Pipedreams…Ifyouareamoreexperiencedsewist(andyoursewingmachinecanhandletheextralayers),youcaninsertsomeattractivepipinginthetopandsideseamsofthisbag(seePipedEdges).Theresultwouldlookfab!
11Maketheexteriorpocketflap–takethepockettabloopWSU(foldedinhalfwithpockettabattached)andplaceitontothepockettablooppatternmarkingontheRSpocketflapexteriorfabricpiece.SeeFigd.Matchuptherawedgesofthepockettabloopandthepocketflapfabric.Holdthepockettabloopinplacewithyourfingersandstitchwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.BringtheexteriorandliningpocketfabricflappiecesRST,pinandstitchallaroundtheflapleavingagapof15cm(6in)inthetopedgeforturningout.Clipthecorners,irontheseamsopenandturnRSO.Pushtheseamsofthegapintotheholeandironthefoldstogetastraightedgealongthetopoftheflap.
FigdPositionthepockettabontotheexteriorfabricasshown.
12Maketheexteriorpocket–taketheexteriorpocketpieceRSUandfollowthestep2ofSnapstoinsertthemagneticpartofthesnapintothe
snappatternmarking.BringtheexteriorandliningpocketpiecesRST.Matchtherawtopedges,pinandstitchalongthetopedgeonly.Irontheseamopen,fliptheexteriorlayerovertotheRS,ironandtopstitchalongthetopedge3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.
13Stitchtheexteriorpocketandflaptothebag–taketheexteriorpocketandplaceitRSUontotheRSexteriormainbodyfabricpiece(whichhasnocornertrims).Matchuptherawbottomandsideedgesofthepocketandthemainbodypiece,pinandstitchalongthesidesandbottomwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.PlacethetopedgeofthepocketflapRSUontotheRSexterior,2cm(3⁄4in)upfromthetopedgeofthepocket.Ensuretheflapisstraightandcentral(andthepockettabclicksintoplaceontothemagneticsnap).Pinandtopstitchthepocketflapinplacealongthetopedge3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge–stitchingthegapintheflapshutasyousew.
14Stitchthebaghandlestotheexterior–takethehandleinterfacingpiecesandironthemtotheWSoftheexteriormainbodyfabricpiecesbehindthepatternmarkingsforthehandles.Ifusingyourhandmadepipedhandles,takethehandleRSUandstitchthehandletabstotheRSexteriorinaboxformationforstrength.Repeatwiththeotherhandle.Ifusingready-madehandlesstitchthetabstotheexteriorfabricthroughthepre-punchedholes.
AboveAnexteriorpocketontravelbagsissohandyforkeepingthosebitsandpiecesyouneedtoaccessquicklyonyourjourney!
Theboxtopzip(exterior)
15Stitchtheziptoppanelstothezip–bringoneoftheziptoppanelfabricpiecesandthezipRST.Matchupthelongedgeofthezip–you’llseethatthezipislongerthantheziptoppanels(andthatisfine),matchupthecentrelongedgeofthezipandthecentrelongedgeoftheziptoppanelbeforepinningbothtogether.Stitchthepaneltothezipwitha5mm
(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherziptoppanelpieceandotherzipside.
16Stitchthezippullstothezipbottompanels–foldthezipbottompanelsinhalfWSTwidthwaysandironthefold.Takeoneofthezippulls(withrawedgefacingup)andplaceitinthecentrefoldedtopedgeofthebottompanel.Matchtheedges,pinandstitchinplacewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFige.Repeatwiththeotherzippull.
FigeThiscleverzippullwillgiveyousomethingtograbwhileopeningandclosingthebag,thusmakingthezipeasiertouse.
17Stitchthezipbottompanelstotheziptoppanel–takeazipbottompanelWSUandplacethefoldededgeontotheRSshortedgeof
theziptoppanel(withzipinserted).Matchtheedges,pinandstitchthebottompaneltothezipwitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.TurnRSU,foldthebottompaneldowntotheRSandironthefold.Ifthefabricthicknessallows,topstitchalongthefoldonthebottompanel3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.SeeFigf.Repeatwiththeotherbottompanel.
Figf1–f2ViewfromtheWS:stitchthezipbottompanelandtheziptoppanelRST.ViewfromtheRS:foldthezipbottompaneldown.
Assemblingthebagexterior
18Stitchtheexteriorziptoppanelandmainbodypiecestogether–bringtheziptoppanel(withzipandzipbottompanelsinserted)andthemainbodypiecesRST.Takecaretomatchthetopedgesofthecornertrimandthezipbottompanel–bothshouldformasmoothlinethatappearstorunfromthebagsidetothebagfront/backbottomcorner.SeeFigg.Pinandstitchtogetheralongthetopandsideedgesstopping1cm(3⁄8in)upfromthebottomedge–sewseveralsecuringstitchesatbothends.Repeatwiththeotherexteriormainbodypiece.
FiggTakecaretomatchthetopzipbottompanelwiththetopofthebottomcornersoitwilllookasifoneisflowingintotheother.
19Stitchtheexteriorbagbasetotheexteriorbag–bringtheshortedgesoftheexteriorbagandtheexteriorbaseRST,pinandstitch–stoppingandstarting1cmfromtheedge(sewingsecuringstitchesatbothendsasinstep18).Repeatforthelongedgesofthebaseandbag.Clipoffthecorners.
20Insertthebagfeetintothebase–(ifusing)ifnotusingbagfeetproceedtostep21.MarkthepositionofthebagfeetontheRSofthebagbase1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromtheedge.Useaseamrippertomaketinyincisionsforeachpronginthemarkings.TakeoneofthebagfeetandpushtheprongsthroughabagfootmarkingthroughRSofthebagbaseandpresstheprongsdowntosecure.Repeatfortheotherbagfeet.
Thebaglining
21Inserttheflushzippocketintothelining–takethesmallerzipandthetwoflushzippocketfabricpiecesandfollowFlushZipPocket,steps
2–8toinsertaflushzippocketintothecentreoftheoneoftheliningmainbodypieces7cm(23⁄4in)downfromthetopedge.
22Measureandmarktheliningpocketdividerlines–takethelargeliningpocketpieceRSUandfoldthetopedgeofthepocketdown1cm(3⁄8in)totheWS,ironandrepeat.Stitchthefolddown5mm(3⁄16in)fromthetopedge.Markoneormorepocketdividerlineswheredesiredontothepocketfabric.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step11.
23Stitchtheliningpockettothemainbodyliningpieces–placethepocketRSUontotheRSoftheotherliningmainbodypiece(whichhasnopocket).Matchupthebottomandsideedgesofthepocketandthemainbodypieceandpin.Stitchthepockettothemainbodypiecealongthedividerline(s)andthenstitchalongthebottomandsideedgesofthepocketwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.
Theboxtopzip(lining)
24Assemblethebaglining(top,bodyandsides)–takeoneoftheliningziptoppanelsRSUandfoldthelongstraightedgedown1cm(3⁄8in)totheWSandironthefold.Repeatwiththeotherliningziptoppanel.Assemblethelininginthesamewayasthebagexterior(steps17–18)exceptthereisnoziptoinsert.SeeFigh.
FighMakeupthebaglininginthesamewayasforthebagexteriorexceptthereisnoziporzippartstoinsert.Youshouldbeleftwithaliningbagthathasalongthinrectangularholealongthe
top.
25Stitchtheliningbasetotheliningbag–theliningbaseismadeoftwolayers,whichwillformapocketintowhichthebagbottomisinserted.BringthetwoliningbasefabricpiecesWStogether,matchupalledgesandtreatasonelayer.Withtheinterfacedliningbasepieceuppermost,stitchtheliningbasetotheliningbaginthesamewayasfortheexteriorbaginstep19,exceptyouneedtoleaveoneoftheshortedgesofthebaseopen.
26Insertthebagbottomintothelining–measurethewidthandthelengthofthelining(seamtoseam).Subtract5mm(3⁄16in)frombothmeasurements–thiswillbethemeasurementofthegridbagbottom.Cutthegridbagbottomtosizeandtrimoffthecornertips.Slidethebagbottomintotheliningthroughtheopeningandstitchthegapshut.SeeFigi.
FigiSlidethegridbagbottomintotheliningbaseandstitchtheholeshut.Forbestresultsensurethatitisasnugfit.
Assemblingthebag
27Stitchtheliningbasetotheexteriorbase–openthezipontheexteriorbag.Choosewhichside(frontorback)youprefertohavetheflushzippocketinthebagliningandthenbringtogethertheliningbaseandtheexteriorbaseWST.Matchalledges,pinandstitchallaroundwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.TurnthebagRSObyreachingintothezipholeoftheexteriorbagandpeelingtheexteriorbagbackovertheliningbag.SeeFigj.
Figj1–j2PlacetheliningbagbaseWSontotheexteriorbaseWS,matchalledgesandstitchtogetherintheseamallowanceapprox5mm(3⁄16in)fromtheedge;turntheexteriorbagRSO
overtheliningbagbypeelingitbacklikeabananaskin.
Boxtopzip–finalassembly
28Stitchtheliningandexteriorsidetopandsideseamstogether–bringtogetherthesideandtopedgeseamsoftheliningandexteriorbagsandhandstitchthemtogetherintheseamallowance.SeeFigk.Startandstopsewing15cm(6in)upfromthebottomedge.Repeatontheotherside.
FigkHandstitchthetopandsideseamsoftheliningandtheexteriorbagtogether.Don’tworrytoomuchaboutmakingthestitchesneat,astheywon’tbeonshow.
29Stitchtheliningzipopeningtothezip–matchthefoldededgeoftheliningzipopeningtothefabricofthezip.Handstitchtogetherwithsmallandneatstitches.SeeFigl.
FiglHandsewthefoldededgeoftheliningtothefabricofthezip.Tomakelifeeasier,liftthefabricofthezipawayfromtheexteriorseamsoyouonlyhaveonelayertosewthrough.
30Finishingtouches–attachtheadjustablestraptothebagfollowingsteps2–3ofAdjustableStrapsandgoandpackyourbags!
AboveThespottyversionismadefromfantasticwipe-cleanoilcloth,greatforwhiskingawaythemarksandbumpsyourluggagetendstopickuponyourtravels.Italsomakesagreatwater
resistantholdallforsportingactivities.
7:PocketsWell-placedandplentifulpocketsinyourbagshelpkeepyoucalmandcollectedwhenyou’reinahurryorwhenyourarmsarefull.Thelastthingyouneedatabusycheckoutistohavetosendasearchpartyintoyourbagforyourmoney.Pocketscanlookasfunorprettyastheyarefunctional.Thischapterlooksatvarioustypesofpocketsandtheirmethodsofconstructionandlining.Italsoexplainshowyoucancombinefasteningswithyourpocketsinordertomakethemextrasecure.ZippocketsarecoveredintheLiningschapter(andseeClosuresforadviceonaddingzipsingeneral).Thetablebelowrevealssomeofthemorecommonlyusedpockets,theirbenefitsanduses.
Pocketsofcreativity…Experimentwithfabricchoicesandpocketpositioningforabagthat’sperfectforyourneeds.
PocketType Benefits SuggestedUses
SlipPocket
Flatprofile,thereforesuitableforallbags,fasttomakeandutilizesaminimalamountoffabric.
Greatforliningsofslimlineeveningpurses/clutchesorplaceontheexteriorforfastaccesstonon-preciousitems.
LinedSlipPocket
Asaboveplusmetalclosurescanbeappliedtothispockettype.Twodifferentfabricsprovideanexcusetoinjectmorecolour.
Asabove.
Cleverbecausetheylieflatwhenempty,butexpand Greatfortheexteriorof
largercasualbagsor
Bellows
whenempty,butexpandoutwardstoaccommodateyourgear.Metalclosurescanbeaddedforextrasecurity.Bestforbulkyitems.
largercasualbagsorstructuredsatchels.Alsogoodfortheliningoforganizer-stylebags,totesorpicnicbags.
Elasticized-TopPocket
Aneasyaccesspocketwiththeaddedcontrolandsecurityofacinched-intopedge.Bestforbulkyitems.
Greatontheexterioroflargerbags(suchastravelbagsorhold-alls)forstoringtalleritems.Alsogoodfortheliningoforganizer-stylebags,nappyormessengerbags.
Darted-CornerPocket
Abox-shapedpocketthatlooksveryprofessional.Providesquickandeasyaccess.Canhaveaflapandmetalclosurescanbeaddedifdesired.Bestforbulkyitems.
Attractiveenoughfortheexteriorofsmarterdaytimebags(suchaswork/cityday-tripperbags)butequallygreatonlargercasualbags(suchasweekenderorgymbags).
SlipPocketAbasicpocketandoneoftheeasiesttypestomake.Asthispocketisflatinprofileyoucanputitintothedaintiestofpurseswithoutaddinganybulktothepurse.SeeSlipPocket.
LinedSlipPocketAnotherflatprofilepocketthatisverysimpletomake.Thesepocketslookmoreattractivethanslippocketsbecausethetwopocketfabricscanechothebagexteriorfabric
andtheliningfabric.SeeLinedSlipPocket.
BellowsPocketThesepocketshavein-builtcapacityatthesidessoyoucanstuffmorethingsintothepocketwithoutclutteringuptheoveralllookofyourbag.SeeBellowsPocket.
Elasticized-TopPocketThisvoluminouspocketisveryhandywhenyouwanteasyaccesstoyourgear.Theelastictopgripstalleritemssuchasbottlesorumbrellas,keepingthemflush
againstyourbag.SeeElasticized-TopPocket.
Darted-CornerPocketThesevolume-addingpocketsareperfectforwhenyouwantyourpocketstostandproudawayfromyourbag.SeeDarted-CornerPocket.
SlipPocketThisisthemostbasicofpocketstomake.Ithasacompletelyflatprofilemakingitverysuitableforsmalleveningbags,forexample.Asthesepocketsareunlinedtheyarebestsuitedtofabricsthatarethesamecolouronbothsides(self-coloured).
Youwillneed
•1pieceofself-colouredfabric.TogaugethewidthandheightofyourpocketfabricpieceseeNeedtoknow
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedpocketandadd2cm(3⁄4in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe18cm(7in)wide,yourpocketfabricneedstobe22cm(85⁄8in)wide.Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandadd2cm(3⁄4in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe19cm(71⁄2in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.
Metal-freezone…Becausethispocketisunlineditisnotsuitablefortheadditionofmetalfastenings,thoughthere’snothingstoppingyoufromaddingaloopandbuttonfastening(seeTheReversibleBucketBag,step1).
1Prepareandfoldyourpocketfabric–foldboththesideedgesin1cm(3⁄8in)andironthefolds.Foldthesideedgesin1cm(3⁄8in)againandironthefolds.Repeattheprocessinthesamewaywiththetopandbottomedges.SeeFiga.Topstitchalongthetopedgeofthepocket5mm(3⁄16in)awayfromtheedge.
FigaFoldinthetopandbottomedges1cm(3⁄8in)andpress.Repeattheprocess.
2Pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag–choosethepositionofyourpocketonyourbaglining/exterior.Withthepocketfoldsfacingdown,pin
intopositionniceandstraight.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedgeswitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.SeeFigb.Ifyourpocketiswideenoughyoucanrunalineofstitchesintoyourpockettomakeacentraldividerifdesired.
FigbStitchthepocketinplacewitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.
LinedSlipPocketThisisthesecondmostbasicofpocketstomake.Ithasacompletelyflatprofilemakingitverysuitableforsmalleveningbags,forexample.Asthesepocketsarelinedyoucanaddamagneticsnapclosureifdesired(seeSnaps).
Youwillneed
•1pieceofliningfabric•1pieceofexteriorfabric.TogaugethewidthandheightofbothyourfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow
•Setofmagneticsnaps(optional–seetip)
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourfinishedpocketandadd4cm(11⁄2in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe18cm(7in)wide,yourpocketfabricneedstobe22cm(85⁄8in)wide.Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandadd4cm(11⁄2in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe19cm(71⁄2in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.
1Preparethepocketforthemagneticsnap–ifyouarenotusingamagneticsnapproceedtostep2.Takeoneofthepocketfabricpiecesandmarkthemagneticsnapposition–Ipreferminetobeatleast3cm(11⁄8in)downfromtherawtopedge.Theninsertthenon-magnetichalfofthesnapintothepocketRSliningbyfollowingthestepsofSnaps.Insertthemagnetichalfofthesnapintothepocketpositiononthebaglining/exteriorfabricpiece.
2Assemblethepocket–bringthetwopocketfabricpiecesRST,pinandstitchallaroundthebottomandsideedges,butleaveagapinthebottomedgeofatleast9cm(31⁄2in)forturningout.Clipoffthecornersofthepocket.IrontheseamsopenandturnthepocketRSOthroughthegap.Pushtherawedgesofthegapintotheholeandironthepocket.SeeFiga.
FigaAfteryouhaveturnedyourpocketRSO,pushtherawedgesofthegapintotheholesothattheedgesarealigned.Ironthepocket.
3Pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag–choosethepositionofthepocketonyourbaglining/exterior.Ifyouareusingamagneticsnapclickthesnaphalvesonthepocketandthebagfabricpiecetogether.Pinthepocketintopositionniceandstraight.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedgesofthepocket,stitchingthegapshutasyousew.SeeFigb.
FigbAndthereyouhaveit–oneneatlinedslippocket.Thisoneevenhasahandymagneticsnapclosure.
Pocketprotection…Ifaddingamagneticsnaptothepocketliningitisagoodideatointerface/interlineyourpocketfabrictoprotectitfromrepeatedpulling(seeSnaps).
BellowsPocketThispockethasthebenefitofaddedvolumesoyoucanstoremoreinthepocketwithoutdisturbingtheprofileofthebag.Asthesepocketsarelinedyoucanaddamagneticsnapclosureifdesired.
Youwillneed
•1pieceofliningfabric•1pieceofexteriorfabric.TogaugethewidthandheightofbothyourfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow
•Setofmagneticsnaps(optional–seetip,PocketProtection…)•Ruler•Disappearingmarker
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourfabricdecidehowwideyouwantthefrontpanelofyourbellowspockettobe,andthendecidehowwideyou’dlikethesidesofthepockettobe,finallyaddontwolotsofseamallowance.Ifyourseamallowanceis1cm(3⁄8in)andyouwantabellowspocketthatis10cm(4in)wideand4cm(11⁄2in)deep,the
calculationis:1x10cm(4in)+2x4cm(11⁄2in)+2x1cm(3⁄8in)=totalbellowspocketfabricwidthof20cm(8in).Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandaddontwolotsofseamallowance.Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe17cm(65⁄8in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.
Pocketplacement…Youcanstitchthispocketashighuponyourbagasdesired,oryoumaypreferthepockettositrightatthebottomofyourbag–thechoiceisyours.
1Foldandconcertinapleatthepocketsides–followsteps1and2ofLinedSlipPocket.WiththepocketRSU,measureandmarkthefoldlinesforthebellowsandthenfoldunderthesideedgesatthefoldmarks.ReturningtotheexampleintheNeedtoknowbox:inthetopandbottomcentreedgeofthepocketmaketwomarks10cm(4in)apart.Thenfoldunderbothsideedgesatthemarksandironthefoldstoformthepocketsidepanels.Afterthesidepanelshavebeenformed,foldthesidepanelsinhalf(concertinastyle)toformthebellows.Finally,topstitchathirdofthewaydownalongthefrontsideedgefoldstoensurethebellowsfoldsremaincrispandsharponthepocket.SeeFiga.
Figa1–a3Foldunderthesideedgestoformthesidepanelsforthepocket,thenfoldthesidepanelsinhalflikeaconcertinapleatandfinallytopstitchathirdofthepocketheightdownfromthe
pocketsidetopedges.
Pocketstoothick?…Ifyouwanttomakeunlinedbellowspockets(becauseyouareworkingwiththickfabric)takeonepocketfabricpieceandfollowstep1ofSlipPocketbeforereturningheretostep1tomeasureandmarkthefoldlines.
2Pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag(upfromthebottomofthebag)–choosethepositionofyourpocketonyourbaglining/exterior.Ifyouareusingamagneticsnap,thenclickthesnaphalvesonthepocketandyourbagfabricpiecetogether.Pinthepocketintoposition,niceandstraight.Asyoupinensurethesidepleatsalsorunstraightandevenallthewaydown.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedgesstitchingthebottomgapshutasyousew.SeeFigb.
FigbAsyoustitchthesideedgesofthepocket,ensureyoukeepthesidepleatsoutoftheway.
3Alternatively,pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag(tothebagbottom)–followstep2butstitchthepocketinplacealongthesideedgesofthepocketonly.Thebottomedgeofthepocketwillbesewnintothebottomseamofthebagatalaterstagewhenyouconstructthebag.
Elasticized-TopPocketThispockethasthebenefitofanarrowerelasticizedtopedgesothepocketcontentsstayputwhenyou’rerunningforthebus.Itisalsogreatforkeepingthecontentsundercontrol–perfectforstoringbabybottles,forexample.
Youwillneed
•1pieceofliningfabric•1pieceofexteriorfabric.TogaugethewidthandheightofbothyourfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow
•1pieceofelasticaswideasthewidthofyourpocketfabric•Safetypinorbodkin•Ruler•Disappearingmarker
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantyourpockettobewhenfullyextendedthenadd2cm(3⁄4in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)wide(fullyextended),yourpocketfabricneedstobe17cm(65⁄8in)wide.
Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandadd4cm(11⁄2in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe19cm(71⁄2in)high.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.
1Createachannelfortheelastic–bringthetwopocketfabricpiecesRST,pinandstitchalongthetopedge.IrontheseamsopenandfliponeofthefabricpiecesoversothattheRSofthepocketisfacingout.Stitchasinglelineofstitchesclosetothetopedgetoformachanneltallenoughtoaccommodatetheelastic(seetip).SeeFiga.
Channeltunnel…Theheightoftheelasticchannelneedstobe1cm(3⁄8in)tallerthantheheightofyourelastic.
FigaStitchalineofstitchesalongthetopofthepockettocreateachannelthatistallenoughforyourelastic.
2Inserttheelastic–measureandmark2.5cm(1in)infromboththechannelsides.Attachthesafetypin/bodkintooneoftheelasticendsanduseittothreadtheelasticthroughthechannel.Pulltheelasticoutattheotherendofthechannelandremovethesafetypin/bodkin.Feelingthroughthefabricwithyourfingers,pulltheelasticbackintothechanneluntiltheendalmostreachesthe2.5cm(1in)channelmark.Stitchacrosstheelastic(throughbothpocketfabriclayers)atthe2.5cm(1in)channelmarktosecuretheelasticendinplace.
3Gatheryourpocketfabricandcuttheelastictosize–takeholdofthefreeendoftheelasticandgatherupthepocketfabrictoyourdesiredpocketwidth.Testthestretchinessoftheelastic.SeeFigb.Theelasticshouldbetightenoughtopreventyourpocketfromgapingopen,butnotsotightthatthepocketwillpullonthebagfabric.Whenyouarehappywiththeelasticwidth,trimofftheexcesselasticandgentlyallowtheelastictoslidebackthoughthechannel–almostuptothe2.5cm(1in)channelmark.Stitchtheelasticenddownasinstep2.
FigbPullontheelasticandgatherthepocketfabric.Testthepockettogetthedesiredstretchinessandtrimofftheexcesselasticwhensatisfied.
4Foldinthesidesandstitchthepockettoyourbag(upfromthebottomofthebag)–matchtherawedgesofthepocket,pinandstitchazigzagstitchalongthebottomandsideedgestopreventfraying.Foldbothsideedgesin1cm(3⁄8in)andironthefolds.Repeatforthebottomedge.Withthepocketfoldsfacingdown,pinthepocketintoposition,niceandstraight.SeeFigc.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedges.
FigcThepocketispinnedintopositiononthebagfabricpiece.Providedthepocketlookssymmetricaloneithersideit’sfineifthepocketsidesleaninwardsalittle(duetotheelasticized
top).
5Alternatively,pinandstitchthepockettoyourbag(tothebagbottom)–foldinthesideedgesofthepocketasinstep4andpinthe
pocketRSUtothebottomedgeofyourbag.Stitchthepocketinplacealongthepocketsideedgesonly.Thebottomedgeofthepocketwillbesewnintothebottomseamofthebagatalaterstagewhenyouconstructthebag.
Darted-CornerPocketThistechniqueisperfectwhenyouwantastructural3Dpocket.Thebottomcornerdartsaddaboxyshapetothepocketsoitstandsproudawayfromyourbag.Youcanmakeaflapforthepocketwithanyfastening.Thisstyleofpocketisusuallyplacedupandawayfromthebottomofyourbag.Asquareorrectangularshapeworksbest.
Youwillneed
•1pieceofliningfabricforthepocketandflap(ifmaking)
•1pieceofexteriorfabricforthepocketandflap(ifmaking).TogaugethewidthandheightofbothpocketfabricpiecesseeNeedtoknow
•Ruler•Disappearingmarker•Yourchoiceoffastener(ifmakingaflap)
Needtoknow
Togaugethewidthofyourpocketfabricdecidehowwideyouwantthefrontpanelofyourpockettobe,andthendecidehowwideyou’dlikethesidesofthepockettobe,finallyaddontwolotsofseamallowance.Ifyourseamallowanceis1cm(3⁄8in)andyouwantadartedpocketthatis10cmwide(4in)and4cm(11⁄2in)deep,thecalculationis:1x10cm(4in)+2x4cm(11⁄2in)+2x1cm(3⁄8in)=totaldarted-cornerpocketfabricwidthof20cm(8in).Togaugetheheightofyourpocketdecideontheheightofyourfinishedpocketandaddtwolotsofseamallowance.Ifyouwantyourfinishedpockettobe15cm(6in)high,yourpocketfabricneedstobe17cm(65⁄8in)high.Togaugetheheightofthepocketflapfabricdecideontheheightofyourpocketflapandadd3cm(11⁄8in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedpocketflaptobe7cm(23⁄4in)high,yourpocketflapfabricneedstobe10cm(4in)high.Thewidthofyourpocketflap(ifmaking)shouldbethesameasthepocketfabricwidth.MakeuppocketsandstitchthemtoyourbagfabricBEFOREconstructingyourbags.
1Insertanyfastenings–ifusing,insertanyfasteningstotheRSoftheexteriorpocketfabricpiece(seeSnapsandTwistLock).Iliketoplacemypocketfasteningsatleast3cm(11⁄8in)downfromtherawtopedgeofthepocketfabric.
2Insertdartsintothepocket–followsteps1–2ofDartstoinsertdartsintothebottomcornersofthepocketexteriorpieceandtheliningpieces.SeeFiga.
FigaInsertdartsintothebottomcornerofbothpocketfabricpieces.
3Assemblethepocket–bringyourpocketlining/exteriorpiecesRST.Matchupthebottomandsideedgespayingextraattentiontothedartlinestoensurethattheymatch.SeeFigb.Pinandstitchallaroundthebottomandsideedges,butleaveagapofatleast7cm(23⁄4in)inthebottomedgeforturningout.IrontheseamsflatandturnthepocketRSOthroughthegapinthepocket,pushtherawedgesofthegapintotheholeandirontheentirepocket.
FigbTheliningandexteriorpiecesarepinnedtogetherandthedartsonbothsidesmatch.
4Stitchthepockettoyourbag–placethepocketontothebagfabricandmouldandformthepocketsoitsitslikea3Dboxshape.Ensurethepocketissittingniceandstraightandpinintoposition.Topstitchthepocketinplacealongthebottomandsideedges,stitchingthegapinthebottomedgeshutasyousew.SeeFigc.
FigcThepocketstitchedintopositiononthebagfabric.Thepocketshouldresembleaboxsittingonyourbagfabric.
5Makeupthepocketflap–ifusing,insertyourchosenfasteningsintotheflapliningfabric(seeSnapsandTwistLock).Totestifthefasteningpositionissuitable,placetheflapliningfabricoveryourpocket.BringtheflapfabricpiecesRST,pinandstitchallaround,butleaveasufficientgapinthetopedgeforturningout.Clipanycurves,irontheseamsopen,turntheflapRSOthroughthegap,andpushtherawedgesofthegapintothehole.Irontheflapandpinintopositionjustaboveyourpocket,atleast1cm(3⁄8in)abovethetopedge.Stitchtheflaptoyourbagfabricalongtheflaptopedge,stitchingthegapshutasyousew.SeeFigd.
Fasteningfun…Ifmakingapocketflap,afasteningcanbeappliedtotheexteriorpocketfabricpiece.Youcoulduseamagneticsnap(seeSnaps),aninvisiblesnap(seeSnaps)oratwistlock(seeTwistLock).
Figd1–d3Stitchingtheflapatleast1cm(3⁄8in)aboveyourpocketwillallowforthebulkofthepocketsoyoucanshuttheflapneatly;viewofthepocketwiththeflapraised–amagneticsnap
fasteningisusedinthispocket;viewofpocketwiththeflapdown.
Makeit…TheMulti-TaskingToteThisbagmightbeoneofthemostusefulbagsyou’llevermake.Ithaspocketsa-plenty–tentobeexact!Thebagisalsoexpandiblewithawideflatbasethatopensuplikeabox,whichmakesone-handedsearchmissionseasy.Thisbagwouldbebrilliantasanappybagorforpicnics,shoppingtrips,crafting,college,overnightstays,oranyoccasionwhereyouwanttokeepthecontentsofyourbagorganizedandundercontrol.
SideviewWithallthefastenersclosed,thisroomybaglooksquiteslim…
Sideview…butundothesidepoppersandthebagturnsintoanicewideboxthatissupereasytoseeintoandgetinto.
InteriorThepocketsarewaitingtobestuffedwithbabybottles,nappiesandtoysorcouldkeepyourcraft,college,weekendtrip,picnic,orbeachgearorganized.
Needtoknow
Youneedplaincoloureddurablehomedecfabricsfortheexteriorandtheliningofthisbagbecauseallthepocketsareunlined(topreventtoomuchbulkinthesideseams).Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstated.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
Youwillneed
•1pieceofplaincolouredhomedecfabricforexterior,1m(1yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide
•1pieceofplaincolouredfabricforlining,1m(1yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide•1pieceofhomedecfabricforpockettrim,handlesandties,50cm(1⁄2yd)x1.5m(11⁄2yd)wide
•Single-sidedfusiblefleece,1m(1yd)•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Magneticsnapclosure,18mm(3⁄4in)•2poppersnaps,1.5cm(1⁄2in)•4eyelets,11mm(1⁄2in)•Fusibleinterfacingforeyeletandmagneticsnapreinforcement,20cm(8in)•6metalbagfeet(optional)•Gridbagbottomandstrongdouble-sidedtape•4cordstoppersand4cordends(optional)•Loopturnerorlargesafetypin•Disappearingmarker•Cottonorlinenpressingcloth
PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:
FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(mainbody)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric•2xliningfabric•2xfusiblefleece
FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(front/backpocket)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric
FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(liningpocket)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xliningfabric
FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(handlebase)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabricThenturnthepatternoverandcut:
•2xexteriorfabric(inmirrorimage)
FromTheMulti-TaskingTote(handle)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•2xexteriorfabric•2xliningfabric
TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:
•2piecesofexteriorfabric,2ofliningfabricand2offusiblefleece,32x20cm(121⁄2x8in),forthebagsides
•1pieceofexteriorfabric,1ofliningfabricand1offusiblefleece,40x20cm(153⁄4x8in),forthebagbase
•2piecesofexteriorfabric,29x20cm(111⁄2x8in),fortheexteriorsidepockets
•2piecesoftrimfabric,29x10cm(111⁄2inx4in),fortheexteriorsidepockettrim
•2piecesoftrimfabric,40x14cm(153⁄4x51⁄2in),fortheexteriorfront/backpockettrim
•2piecesoftrimfabric,48x14cm(19x51⁄2in),fortheliningpockettrim•2stripsoftrimfabric,84x3cm(33x11⁄8in),fortheties•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,7x2.5cm(23⁄4x1in),fortheeyeletreinforcement
•2piecesofliningfabric,10cm(4in)square,forthemagneticsnaptabs
•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,10x2.5cm(4x1in),forthemagneticsnapreinforcement
Labellogic…Astherearequiteafewpiecestothisbag,it’sworthlabellingandinterfacing(ifnecessary)eachpieceasyoucutittopreventconfusion.
Thetabs,handles,tiesandboundedgepockets
1Makeupthemagneticsnaptabs–takeoneofthemagneticsnaptabfabricpieces,foldinhalfRSTandironthefold.OpenupandplaceoneofthemagneticsnapfusiblereinforcementpiecesjustabovethefoldontheWSandironinplace.Makean‘X’markforthemagneticsnap11⁄2cm(1⁄2in)upfromthefold.Followstep2ofMagneticSnap.FoldthemagneticsnapinhalfRSTandstitchalongbothsideedges.Clipthecorners,turnRSO,andiron.SeeFiga.Repeatfortheothermagneticsnapfabricpieceandsnaphalf.
FigaThesemagneticsnaptabswillbesewnintothebaglininglater.
2Makeupthebaghandles–bringoneofthehandleliningandhandleexteriorpiecesRSTandfollowsteps2–4oftwo-facedstrapsinAdjustableStraps.TakethehandleRSUandfoldthecentreofthehandleinhalfRST.Stitcha10cm(4in)lineofstitchesalongtheopenedgealongthecentreonly.SeeFigb.Repeatfortheotherhandle.
FigbFoldingthestrapinthemiddlelikethiswillmakeitmorecomfortabletouseanditlooksgoodtoo.
3Makeupthebagties–takeoneofthetiefabricpiecesRSU,foldinbothlongedges5mm(3⁄16in)andiron.FoldinhalflengthwaysRST,ironandstitchalongtheopenlongedge.Divideintotwoequallengths.Repeatwiththeothertiefabricpiece.
4Gatherthetopandbottomedgesoffront/backpockets–stitchgatheringstitchesalongthetopandbottomedgesofthepocket5mm(3⁄16in)upfromtheedge.Gatherthepocketfabricuntilitisthesamewidthatthetopandthebottomasthemainbodyfabricpiece.Forsewinggatheringstitchesandgatheringthefabricseestep3ofGathers.Repeatwiththeotherfront/backpocketpiece.
5Bindthetopedgesofallthepockets–thethreedifferentpocketsareboundasfollows:
•Thesidepockets:takeoneofthesidepockettrimpiecesWSUandfoldinbothlongedges1cm(3⁄8in)andiron.Foldthetrim(almost)inhalflengthwayssothattheleadingedgeis5mm(3⁄16in)downfromtheotheredgeandironthecrease.SeeFigc.Usethisbindingtobindthetopedgeofasidepocket,followingsteps2and4ofBoundEdgesRepeatfortheothersidepocketandpockettrim.
•Theliningpockets:bindthetopedgesoftheliningpocketsinthesamewayasthesidepockets.
•Thefront/backpockets:makethefront/backbindinginthesamewayasfortheotherpockets.Openupthebindingandontheshorter(height)sideofthebinding,interfacethecentreofthebindingforthetieholes.Maketwomarksforeyelets4cm(11⁄2in)apartintheeyeletarea.SeeFigd.Inserttheeyeletsaspertheinstructionsonthepack.Repeatwiththeothertwoeyeletsandfront/backbinding.Threadthetiesthrougheachoftheeyeletholes.Pintheoppositeendofthetiestothebindingtopreventthemfromescapingoutoftheeyelets.Threadonthecordstoppersandcordendsontotheties(ifusing)andknottheendsoftheties.Bindthetopedgesofthepocketsinthesamewayastheotherpockets.
FigcFoldthebindingnearlyinhalfsothereisgapof5mm(3⁄16in)betweenthetwoedges.
FigdMakemarkingsfortheeyeletsontheshortersideofthebinding–theshortersidewillenduponthefrontofthepocket.
Thebagexterior
6Interfacetheexteriorfabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorfabricpatternpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.
7Makeupthebellowssidepockets–takeoneofthetrimmedsidepocketfabricpiecesRSUandmeasureandmark7cm(23⁄4in)and5cm(2in)infrombothsideedges.Thesearetheconcertinafoldlinesforthebellows.Makethebellowpocketsfollowingstep1ofBellowsPocket(onlyfoldtheconcertinaatthemarksyouhavejustmade).
8Stitchthebellowspocketstotheexteriorsidepanels–placeabellowspocketRSUontothebottomedgeofoneoftheRSexteriorsidepanelsandmatchthesideandbottomedgesofthepocketandtheexteriorsidepanel.Pinandstitchthepockettotheexteriorsidepanelatthebottomandsideedgeswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatfortheotherbellowspocketandsidepanel.
9Stitchthehandlebasestothemainbodyexterior–takeoneofthehandlebasefabricpiecesRSU,foldinthediagonaledgeandshortedgeunder5mm(3⁄16in)andiron.PlacethehandlebaseontooneoftheRStopcornerexteriormainbodypieces.Matchuptherawtopandsideedgesofthehandlebaseandmainbody,pinandtopstitchallaroundthehandlebase3mm(1⁄8in)fromtheedge.SeeFige.
FigeTopstitchthehandlebasetothemainbodyexteriorfabricwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.
10Stitchthefront/backpocketstotheexteriormainbodypieces–placeafront/backpocketRSUontothebottomedgeofoneoftheRSexteriormainbodyfabricpieces.Pinandstitchthepockettotheexteriormainbodyatthesidesandbottomwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Asyousewonthesidetopedgesensureyoucatchthetieendsinyourstitches.SeeFigf.
FigfSewoverthetieendasyousewthepockettothebodytosecureittothesideseams.
11Stitchtheexteriorsidepanelsandmainbodypiecestogether–bringoneofthesidepanelsandthemainbodypiecesRST,pinandstitchtogetherstopping1cm(3⁄8in)upfromthebottomedge–besuretosewseveralsecuringstitchesatbothends.Pinandstitchanothersidepaneltothesideedgeofthemainbodyinthesameway.Continueuntilyouhavestitchedtogetherallfoursidesoftheexteriorbag.
12Stitchtheexteriorbagbasetotheexteriorbag–bringtheshortedgesoftheexteriorbagandthebaseRST,pinandstitchtogether,stoppingandstarting1cm(3⁄8in)fromtheedge(sewingsecuringstitchesatbothendsasinstep11).Repeatforthelongedgesofthebaseandbag.ClipoffthecornersandturnthebagRSO.
13Insertthegridbagbottomandbagfeetintothebase–(ifusing)ifnotusingabagbottomandbagfeetproceedtostep14.Turnthebagupsidedownandmeasuretheheightandwidthofthebase(fromseamtoseam)thensubtract5mm(3⁄16in)frombothmeasurements.Cutthegridbagbottomtothissizeandtrimoffthecornertips.MarkthepositionofthebagfeetontheRSofthebagbase.Iliketoplacemybagfeet1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromtheedge.Makecorrespondingmarksforthebagfeetonthegridbagbottomandmaketinyscissornicksinittoaccommodatethefeetprongs.Applyseveralstripsofdouble-sidedtapeacrossthelengthofthegridbagbottomandpressfirmlyinplaceintothebottomWSexteriorbag.TakeoneofthebagfeetandpushtheprongsthroughtheRSofthebagbase.Pushtheprongsrightthroughthegridbagbottomandpushdowntosecure.SeeFigg.Repeatfortheotherbagfeet.
FiggPushtheprongsofthebagfeetthroughtheRSofthebaseandthegridbagbottom.This(alongwiththedouble-sidedtape)willpreventthebagbottomfrommovingaroundinthebag.
14Stitchthehandlestothebagexterior–matchtheRSofthehandleendstothehandlebasesontheRStopedgeoftheexteriorbagandpininposition.Liftupthehandletocheckthatthehandleisalignedwiththediagonaledgeofthehandlebase.Thehandleshouldappearto‘flow’intothehandlebase.SeeFigaofInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod.Repositionthehandleifnecessary,matchuptherawedgesofthehandleandthehandlebaseandstitchwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatfortheotherbaghandle.
Thebaglining
15Stitchthemagneticsnaptabstothemainbodypieces–takeoneofthemagneticsnaptabswiththemagneticsnapfacingoutandstitchittotheRScentretopedgeoneoftheliningmainbodypieceswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeothermagneticsnaptabandliningmainbodypiece.
16Measureandmarktheliningpocketdividerlines–takeoneoftheliningpocketpiecesandwiththepocketRSU,measureandmark15cm(6in)infrombothsidetopedgeswithdisappearingmarker.Makecorrespondingmarksdirectlybelowbothmarksonthebottomedgeandmarkthelinebetweenthetwopoints.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step11.
17Stitchthepocketstothemainbodypieces–placethepocketRSUontotheRSoftheliningmainbody.Matchupthepocketdividerlinesonthepockettothepocketdividerpatternmarkingsonthemainbodypatternpieceandpinandstitchinplace..Matchupthepocketdividerlinesonthepocketandtheliningandpinandstitchinplace.Stitchthe
pockettothemainbodyalongbothpocketsideedgeswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Atthebottomedgeofthedividedpocketsfoldandpinsmallconcertinapleatfoldsbythedividerlines.Asyoufoldtheconcertinaatthesideedgesofthepocketpieceensureyouleaveenoughclearanceforthemainbody1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.SeeFigi.Matchuptherawbottomedgesofthepocketandtheliningbodyandstitchalongthebottomedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatsteps16and17fortheotherpocketandliningmainbodypiece.
FigiMakesmallconcertinafoldsatthebottomsidesoftheindividualpockets.Leaveenoughspaceatthesidepocketedgesforsewingtheliningtogether.
18Pinandstitchtheliningbagtogether–makeuptheliningbaginthesamewayastheexteriorbaginsteps11and12exceptyouneedtoleaveagapof18cm(7in)inoneofthesideedgesforturningout,andyoudonotneedtoturnthebagRSO.
Assemblingthebag
19Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–inserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Ensurethehandlesandthemagneticsnaptabsaretuckeddownoutoftheway.Pinandstitchallaroundthetopedge.SeeIInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,step4.
20Turnthebagrightsideout–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Stitchthegapintheliningshutbypushingtherawedgesofthegapintheliningintotheholeandtopstitchingshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebag,payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge.SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps5and6.
21Topstitchthetopofthebag–foldbothmagneticsnaptabsdownontotheliningandpininplacereadyforstitchinginthetabsinadownposition.SeeFigj.Topstitchallaroundthebagtopedgewitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.Takeyourtimeasyousewoverthemagneticsnaptabs,asitwillbealittlebumpy.
FigjFoldthemagneticsnaptabdowncompletelyandpininplace.
22Applypoppersnapstothebaggusset–onbothsidesofthegusset,measureandmarkan‘X’1.5cm(1⁄2in)downfromthegussettopedgeand1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromthesideseamsforthepoppersnapplacement.Followtheinstructionsonthepackettoinsertthepoppersnapstothetopedgeofthebaggusset.SeeFigk.
Figk1–k2Insertthepoppersnapsintobothgussetsidetopedgesthroughallfabriclayers.
AboveThepoppersaresohandy–fillyourbagthensnapthemshuttokeepeverythingundercontrol.Thenwhenyouneedtogetinthereforagoodlookaround,unpopandyourreadytogo!
8:EdgingsandTrimmingsThesayinggoesthatit’sthesmallthingsthatmakeallthedifferenceandsometimesthatdefinitelyringstrue.Inthesamewaythatit’snicetoadornourselveswithprettybraceletsandnecklaceswecanalsohavefunadorningourbags.Thischapterisallaboutedgingandaccessorizingyourarmcandy.Thepagesthatfollowlookattwodifferentwaysofprofessionallytrimmingtheedgesofyourbags,andafterthatwe’regoingwindow-shoppingforsomeready-madebagtrimmings.
Upcycleandaway…Thisistheperfectopportunitytobringoldribbon,beadsandbaublesbacktolife.
Edge/TrimType ApplicationandBenefits Varieties
Binding
Sewnalongedgestocoverrawedges.Useinmatchingorcontrastingtonesandusedifferenttexturesfortactileinterest.Reinforcesedges.
Straightorbias.Shop-boughtorhomemade(seeopposite).
Piping
Sewnbetweentwolayerssothatthetrimrunsalongtheedge.Reinforcesedgesanddefinesshapes.
Thickorthin,matchingorcontrasting,twistedcord.Makeyourownpipingforahugechoiceofcolours(seePipedEdges).
Ready-MadeTrim
Sewnalongedgesofbagorbagflaps.Addseye-catchingmovementandgivesaninstant
Beaded,pom-pom,featherboa,sequinfringe.
movementandgivesaninstanteffect. fringe.
Ribbon
Veryversatilesewnstraightasbinding,ordecorativebandsofcolour,orusedasembellishment(madeintotassels,bowsandcorsages).
Silk,velvet,georgette,chiffon,wired,metallic,grosgrain,sequin,beaded,embroidered.
Jewellery
Pincorsagesorbroochesontoflapsorhandles.Addlengthsofbeadstocorsagesormakeyouownbagcharms.Makeinterchangeablewristhandlesfromcolourfulbangles.Itemscanbeswappedtovarythelook.
Frenchbeadedflowers,modernorantiquebrooches,hatpins,enamelledbadges,beadednecklaces/bracelets,bangles.
Embellishments Applyanywhereyouwanttozhushupyourcreations.
Tassels,buttons,beads,yo-yo,appliquépatches,sequins,fabricflowers,self-coverbuttons.
BoundEdgesYou’veprobablyseenhoweffectivebindinglooksonquilts;wellitalsolooksverycoolonbags.Bindingaddsanattractivepicture-frameeffect.Trybindingyourpockettopsfor
starters.SeeBoundEdges.
PipedEdgesPipingisanattractiveandprofessional-lookingwaytotrimseams.Itisalsoaneffectivewaytoreinforcetheseams,helpingyourbagstomaintaintheirshape.Thethickerthe
pipingthemoresupportitwillprovide.SeePipedEdges
Twotypesofbinding–straightorbias
Inordertobindorpipeyouredgesyouneedsomefabricbindingtape.Youcanusebindingtapethatiscutonthestraightgrainortapethatiscutonthebias.Thechoiceofbindingyouuseisdeterminedbytheshapeoftheedgethatyou
wanttobind.Curvededgesneedtobeedgedwithbindingthatiscutonthebias.Thisisbecausebias-cuttapecanbeappliedtocurvededgeswithoutitwrinklingup.Shop-boughtbindingisusuallypre-foldedsatinorcottontapecutonthebias–whichiswhyit’scalledbiasbinding.Youcanalsomakeyourownbiasbinding(seebox).Ifyouareonlyedgingstraightedgesyoucancutyourownbindingstripsalongthestraightgrain.Ifindoubt,sticktobiasbinding,whichisperfectforbothcurvedandstraightedges.Allthetechniquesandtheprojectinthischapterwillmakeuseofbiasbinding.
MakingYourOwnBiasBindingItmightbefastertobuybiasbinding,butyouwillbelimitedtothecoloursandthewidthsavailableintheshop.Whynottrymakingyourownprettybiasbindinginfabricsofyourchoice?
Onethingyou’llneedisabiastapemakertospeedthingsup.Availableindifferentwidths,abiastapemakercreatesthetwobindingfoldsreadyforyoutoirontheminplace.Cutthefabricstripstotheheightstatedontheinstructionsofyourbiastapemaker.Tocutthestriponthebias,cutthefabricat45degreesfromtheselvage.Tomakealongcontinuousstripofbindingtrimtheendsofthestripsat45degrees.OverlapthetwofabricendsRST,pinandstitchwitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.Trimoffbothofthesmalltrianglesoffabricthatstickoutfromthesides.Irontheseamopenandpassthroughthebiastapemakeraspertheinstructionsonthepack.SeeFiga.
Figa1–a3Jointhe45-degreeendsofthestrapRSTasshownandstitchtogether;trimoffthesmallprotrudingtriangles;passthejoinedtapethroughtapemakerandironthefolds.
BoundEdgesBindinganedgehastheeffectofaddinganattractivefabricbordertotheedge.Thismakesitagoodwayofaddingaflashofcolourandstrengtheningtheedge.
Trybindingthetopedgesofpockets,thetopedgeofyourbagoryourbagflaps.
Youwillneed
•1stripoffoldedandpressedshop-boughtorhomemadebiasbinding(seeEdgingsandTrimmings).TogaugetheheightandlengthofyourbindingseeNeedtoknow
Needtoknow
Togaugetheheightofthebindingtape,decideontheheightofthefinishedboundedge,multiplythatby4andadd3mm(1⁄8in).Ifyouwantyourfinishedboundedgestobe1cm(3⁄8in)tall,yourbindingwillneedtobe4.3cm(15⁄8in).Togaugethelengthofthebinding,measurearoundallaroundtheedgeoftheitemandadd8cm(31⁄8in)forfoldingin.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.
Iftrimmingpockettops,makeupyourpocketandaddthebindingBEFOREstitchingthepockettoyourbag.Foldinbothshortedgesofthebindingateitherendsoastoconcealtherawedges.Iftrimmingbagflaps,makeupyourflapandapplythebindingBEFOREstitchingtheflaptoyourbag.
1Foldandpressthebinding–takethepre-foldedbindingtapeandpressanoff-centrecreaseacrossthelengthofthebinding.SeeFiga.
FigaFoldthebindinglengthwayssothatthebottomfoldededgedoesn’tquitemeetthetopfoldededge.
1Foldandpressthebinding–takethepre-foldedbindingtapeandpressanoff-centrecreaseacrossthelengthofthebinding.SeeFiga.
2Stitchtheopenbindingtotheedge–withtheshorterfoldedsidefacingupwardsunfoldthebinding.WithbindingopenedandWSU,foldintheshortedgeatthestartofthebinding.PlacethetopedgeoftheopenedbindingWSUontotheRStopedge.Ensurethatyouarepinningtheshorterfoldedside(fromstep1)totheitem.Matchtheedgesandpin
allaround.Whenyoualmostreachtheendoftheitem,trimtheexcessbindingsothattheendsoverlap.Pininplace.Stitchthebindingtothetopedgeoftheitemwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.SeeFigb.
Figb1–b2Foldintheedgeatthestartofthebindingbeforepinning.Theendofthebindingistrimmedlongenoughtooverlapthestartofthebindingthusconcealingtherawedge.
3Alternatively,stitchtheopenbindingtothepockettopedge–ifyouarebindingapockettop,foldintheshortedgefirstbeforeyourbeginpinning.Whenyoureachtheendofthepocketfoldintheshortedgeagainasbefore.Stitchthebindingtothetopedgeoftheitemwitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.
4Foldupthebindingandtopstitchtofinish–foldthebindingbackupoverthetopedgeoftheitem.Thefoldedoff-centrecreaseofthebinding(fromstep1)shouldbuttupsnuglywiththetopedgeoftheitem.Pinthefoldedbindinginposition.You’llnoticethatthebindingistallerontheWS.StitchthebindingclosetothebottomedgeofthebindingontheRSoftheitem.ThestitchesfromthefrontwilleasilycatchthebottomedgeofthebindingontheWSbecausetheWSbindingistaller.SeeFigc.
Figc1–c2Theresultfromthefrontandfromtheback.Becausethebindingistallerattheback,thestitchesfromthefrontwilleasilycatchthebottomedgeofthebindingattheback.
PipedEdgesAfinestripofcolouredpipingaddsimpact.Pipethetop,bottomandsideedgesand/orflapsofyourbags.Thistutorialshowshowtomakepipingandhowtoinsertacontinuouslineofpipingaroundthetopedgeofabag.ToseehowtopipethesideandbottomedgeofyourbagsseeThePiping-HotHobo,steps6–9.
Youwillneed
•1stripofbias-cutfabrictocoverthecord.TogaugetheheightandlengthofyourbindingseeNeedtoknow
•1lengthofpipingcordthesamelengthofthebias-cutstrip•Pipingsewingmachinefoot•Seamripper•Disappearingmarker
Needtoknow
Thistopedgepipingtechniqueneedstobeusedinconjunctionwiththepullthroughandturnoutmethodofinsertingbaglinings.SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod.
Togaugetheheightofthepipingcovering,measureyourpipingcordaroundtheperimeter,andaddtwolotsofyourseamallowance,plus3mm(1⁄8in).Togaugethelengthofthepiping,measurearoundallaroundtheedgeoftheitemandadd5cm(2in)forfoldingin.Allseamallowancesare5mm(3⁄16in)unlessstatedotherwise.Whenpipingthetopedgeofyourbag,applythepipingtotheRSoftheexteriorbagAFTERyouhavefinishedconstructingtheexteriorandBEFOREyousewtheliningtotheexterior.
Inthegroove…Apipingfootreallyspeedsuppipingmakingandsewing.Ithasagrooverunningverticallyontheunderside,whichkeepsthepipingcordundercontrolwhileyoustitchitintothefabriccovering.
1Makeupthepiping–tocutbiasfabricstripsforcoveringthepipingseeMakingYourOwnBiasBinding,disregardingtheinformationaboutthebiastapemaker.FoldthebiasstripinhalfWST,iron,openout,andlaythecorddownthecentrecrease.Thecordneedstobuttrightupagainstthecrease.Attachthepipingfoottoyoursewingmachineandpositionthecordunderneaththegrooveinthefoot.Adjusttheneedleposition3mm(1⁄8in)totherightoftheedgeofthecordandstitchthepipingstopping5cm(2in)fromtheend.SeeFiga.
FigaThestartofthepipingisfullystitchedinwhiletheotherendisleftopenby5cm(2in)forfoldingin.
2Begintostitchthepipingtothebagexterior–laytherawtopedgeofthepipingontotheRStopedgeofthebagexteriorback(thiswaythepipingjoinwon’tbeondisplayatthefrontofyourbag.)Matchuptherawedgesandpin.Withthepipingfootstillattachedtoyourmachinebeginstitchingthepiping4cm(11⁄2in)infromtheend.Ensurethatyourstitcheslieslightlytotherightofthepipingstitchesmadeinstep1.Stitchallaroundthebagtopedge5cm(2in)shortoftheendofthepiping.SeeFigb.
FigbTheopen-endedpartofthepipingisontheleftside.Thisgapbetweenthepipingendswillmakeiteasierforyoutocreateajoininthepipinginthenextstep.
3Createajoininthepiping–laytheopen-endedpartofthepipingflatagainstthebagtopedge,andthenlaythesealedpartofthepipingontopoftheopenendasshown.Makeamarkwherethesealedendofthepipingfallsontotheopenend.SeeFigc1.Nowtrimthepipingcordinsidetheopenendofyourpipingtothemarkthatyoujustmade.Ifnecessaryuseaseamrippertoundoanystitchestoallowyouaccesstothepipingcord.Foldintheshortedgeoftheopenendofthepipingandlaytheclosedendofthepipingintotheopenend.SeeFigc2.Folduptheendsoftheopen-endedpiping(withthesealedendtuckedinside),pinandstitchthepipingendsstartingandstoppingatyouroriginalstitches(fromstep2).SeeFigc3.
Figc1Makeamarkwherethestartofthepiping(ontheright)fallsontotheendofthepiping(ontheleft).Figc2Unpickafewstitchesinthepipingandtrimthepipingtothemarkyoumadepreviously.Foldintheshortedgeoftheopenendofthepiping(ontheleft)thenlaytheclosed
endofthepiping(ontheright)insidetheopenend.Thepipingcordendsshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Figc3Theresultwillbeaneatjoinonthepiping.
4Stitchtheliningandtheexteriortogether(withpipingsandwichedinbetween)–makeupthebaglining(leavingagapinthebottomedgeoftheliningforturningout)(seeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,step1).InsertthebagexteriorRSOintothebagliningWSO.TheRSofthetwobagsshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Matchtherawtopedgesandsideseamsandpin.Firmlyrunyourfingernailalongthepipingedge(throughthelining)soyoucanmoreclearlyseetheoutlineofthepipingunderneath.Withthepipingfootstillattachedtoyourmachinepositionthepipingunderneaththegrooveofthepipingfoot.Stitchascloseasyoucantothepipingwithoutactuallystitchingthoughit.SeeFigd.Stitchallaroundthetopedgeofthebag.Thepipingisnowattachedandyoucancontinuewiththerestofthebagconstruction(seeConstruction).
FigdPositiontheneedleascloseasyoucantothepipingwithoutsewingthroughthepiping.
ShoppingforTrimmingsWhenitcomestotrimmingandembellishingabagIadmitthatIamaquick-fixready-madekindofgirl.Appliquéandembroiderycanlookgorgeousonbagandpurses,butthesetechniquesarenotreallymyforte.However,thereareplentyofgoodbooksandwebsitesthatcaneducateyouonthefinerpointsoftheseslowercrafts.Ready-madedoesn’tmeanthatIalwaysgoshoppingformytrimmings,though.Herearesometrimmingsandsuggestionsfortheiruseonbags:
Atsource…Sometimesthemostinterestingembellishmentscomefromsurprisingsources(seeSourcingFabricsforBagMaking).
Pom-pomandbeadedtrimIdon’tknowanysewistthatdoesn’tlikecolourfulfluffypom-pomtrim.Tryaddingpom-pomtrimtothebottomedgesofyourbagsorbagflaps.Beadedtrimwhenusedoneveningbagsaddsanexpensive-lookingfinishingtouch.Ihavegonetotownwithdangly
trimonthisbag.Ihavelayeredpom-pomtrimontopofsomeprettybeadedtrim.
RibbonTrimmingyourbagswithribbonisquickandeffective.Tryprettyingupaplaincolouredbagwithanoversizedpatternedribbonboworstitchingapieceofembroideredribbonacrossthewidthofaplainlinenbag.Addingasatin/velvetbowonasame-colouredpursealwayslooks
fabulous.I’vecollectedprettyribbonfromrelatives,holidaysandabitofstashswappingwithcraftfriends.Ihave(handbag)plansforallofthemofcourse.
TasselsTherearesomegorgeousfabricand/orbeadedtasselsavailableintheshops.Lookinthecurtain-makingsectionoffabricstoresorlookforkeytassels.Orevenmakeyourown.Ilovetoaddtasselstothebottomedgeofflapsortohandleloopsforabitofinstantcolour,movement
andbohochic!
VintagebroochesSometimesIlovenothingmorethanpokingaroundincharityshopsorfleamarketsforoldcostumejewellery.Ithinktheoldervintagecostumejewelleryhasalotofcharmandhumour.Broochesareaninstantwaytoaddthatcharmtoyourbagsandbestofallyoucan
changethebroochtosuityourmood…andyouroutfit.
FlowercorsagesItmaybeaclassiccombination,butabigsilkfloweronaneveningbagisalwaysgoingtolookgorgeous.There’snoneedtostopateveningpursesandsilkflowers.Fabricflowerslookgreatonallsortsofbags.Ready-madefabricflowersareeasilyavailablefromshops
andyoucanalsoeasilyandquicklymakeyourownflowersusingfabricyo-yomakers.
Self-coverbuttonsFewthingsarecuterthanabunchofcheerfulcoordinatingself-coverbuttonsthatyouhavewhippedupyourself.Chooseanicefabricprintandtheself-coverbuttonswilllooksweetenoughtowearasbadges–butthey’lllookevennicerplacedontoyourbagsandpurses.Usethemforbuttonandloopclosures(seeTheReversibleBucketBag),groupedinaprettyformation,orevenasthecentreofafabricflower.Theyarequicktomake(justfollowthe
instructionsonthepacket)andareabrilliantwaytouseupfabricscraps.
Makeit…ThePiping-HotHoboAlthoughthisbaglookstechnicallyadvanced,itisnotastrickyasyoumightthink.Thesecretliesinitsroundshape–thecurvededgesmakethepipingabreeze.Thepipingandtasseltrimonthisbag,thoughsimple,bothmakeastronggraphicstatement.Butwhatyou’lllovemostisthewidecollapsiblegusset,whichmakesthebagslimwhenlessfullandcurvy-liciouswhenit’sbrimmingwithgear.
SideviewWiththesidepoppersclosedthebaghasaslimlineandcleanprofile.Thepipingreallydefinestheedgesandgivesthebagaveryprofessionaltouch.
GussetThesidepoppersopentorevealawidergussetandaroomierbag.
InteriorThecurvedtopedgeatthefrontisanicedesigndetailthatechoestheroundshapeofthebaganditmakesforeasieraccesstoyourbagessentials.Insideisasimpleslippocket.
Needtoknow
Heavierweightfabricsfortheexteriorarenotrecommended;medium-weightfabricisbestbecauseduringconstructionyouwillneedtofeelthepipingcordunderneaththeexteriorlayeroffabric.Makethepipingfroma2.5mx3cm(23⁄4ydx11⁄8in)bias-cutfabricstripand2.5mx5–6mm(23⁄4ydx1⁄4in)pipingcord.SeePipedEdges.Ifyoudonotwanttomakeonecontinuouslengthofpipingcord,youwillneedtwo78cm(303⁄4in),one30cm(12in)andone64cm(25in)lengthsofpipingcordforthisproject.Allseamallowancesare1cm(3⁄8in)unlessstatedotherwise.Patternpiecesaregiveninthepull-outsectionandincludethe1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.
Youwillneed
Youwillneed
•1pieceofmedium-weightfabricforexterior,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•1pieceofquilt-tomedium-weightcottonfabricforlining,50cm(1⁄2yd)x112cm(44in)wide
•Medium-weightwovenfusibleinterfacing,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Fusiblefleece,50cm(1⁄2yd)•Pipingcordtocomplimenttheexteriorfabric,2.5m(23⁄4yd)•Stripofbiasfabricthesamecolourasthepipingfortheflaptrimband,45x3cm(173⁄4x11⁄8in)
•Sewingthreadstomatchthefabrics•Ready-madebagstrapwithtriggerhooks/boltsnaps,approx125x1.5cm(491⁄4x1⁄2in)
•Magneticsnapclosure,18mm(3⁄4in)•2D-ringsaswideasyourbagstrap•2poppersnaps,1.5cm(1⁄2in)•Tasseltomatchthecolourofyourpipingandtrim,2.5cm(1in)wide•Pipingsewingmachinefoot(optionalbutveryhelpful–seePipedEdges)•Seamripper•Heramarker(optional)•Loopturnerorsafetypin•Disappearingmarker
PreparationCutthefabricandinterfacingpiecesasfollows:
FromThePiping-HotHobo(bodyfront)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing
•1xliningfabric
FromThePiping-HotHobo(bodyback)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric
FromThePiping-HotHobo(gusset)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric
FromThePiping-HotHobo(flap)patternpiece(seeTemplates)
•1xexteriorfabric•1xfusiblefleece•1xfusibleinterfacing•1xliningfabric
TransferallpatternnotchesandmarkingstothefabricwithadisappearingmarkerAlsocut:
•2piecesofliningfabric,25x16cm(10x61⁄4in),fortheinnerlinedslippocket
•1pieceofexteriorfabric,14x5cm(51⁄2x2in),forthehandleloops•2piecesoffusibleinterfacing,2.5cm(1in)square,forthemagneticsnapreinforcement
Interfacingandcentralgussetseam
Interfacingandcentralgussetseam
1Interfacetheexteriorfabricpieces–matchthefusibleinterfacingpatternpiecestotheirpartnerexteriorfabricpiecesandironthemtotheWSofthefabricpieces.IronthemagneticsnapreinforcementinterfacingsquarestotheWSofthebagexteriorfrontandthebagliningflappieces,behindthemarkingsforthemagneticsnap.Finally,ironthefusiblefleecepatternpiecesontotheWSofalloftheexteriorfabricpieces(directlyontothefusibleinterfacing).
2Stitchacentralseamintothegussetfabricpieces–taketheexteriorgussetpieceandfolditinhalflengthwaysRST.Pinthefoldinplaceandstitchalongthefoldededgewitha3mm(1⁄8in)seamallowance.SeeFiga.Repeatwiththegussetliningpiece,exceptfolditWST.
FigaThissimplebutclevercentreseamwillmakethebaggusseteasilyandneatlycollapsible..
Thehandleloops
3Makeupthehandleloops–takethehandleloopfabricpieceandfollowthestepsofOpen-EndStrapstomakeoneopen-endstrap.DividetheresultingstrapintotwoequallengthsandthreadaD-ringontoeachofthehandleloops.
4Pinandstitchthehandleloopstotheexteriorbackfabricpiece–takeoneofthehandleloops(foldedinhalfwithD-ringstillattached)andplaceitontooneofthehandlelooppatternmarkingsontheRSbagexteriorfabricpiece.Matchuptherawedges.HoldthehandleloopinplacewithyourfingersandstitchtotheRSbagexteriorwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.Repeatwiththeotherhandleloop.SeeFigb.
FigbStitchthehandlelooptotheexteriorbagsotheD-ringispointingawayfromtheedgeofthefabric.
Thebagexterior
5Insertthemagneticsnaptotheexteriorfront–followthestepsofSnapstoinsertthemagneticpartofthesnaptotheRSoftheexteriorbagfrontatthemagneticsnapmarking.
6Pinandstitchpipingcordontotheexteriorsidesandbottom–cuta78cm(303⁄4in)lengthfromthepipingcord.TaketheexteriorfrontfabricandpinandstitchthepipingcordtotheRSsidesandbottom.Startingandstoppingatthepatternsideedgepipingmarkings,pinthepipingtotheRSofthebagfrontexterior.Ensurethereisanequallengthofexcesspipingateitherend(whichwillbetrimmedofflater).Attachthepipingfoottoyoursewingmachineandusethesamecolouredthreadasthepipingtostitchthepipingtothebagexteriorfabricpiece.Thebottomedgepatternnotcheswillnowbeconcealedunderneaththepiping.Makesmallscissornicksinthepipingseamallowancetouncoverthenotchmarkings.SeeFigc.Repeatwiththebagexteriorbackandanother78cm(303⁄4in)lengthofpipingcord.
Figc1–c2Stitchthepipingtothebagexterior.Stitch3mm(1⁄8in)totherightofthepipingitself;lookforthenotchmarkingsunderneaththepipingcordandmakesmallscissornicksinthepiping
seamallowance(atthenotchmarkings).
7Pinandstitchpipingcordontothebagfrontcurvedtopedge–cuta30cm(12in)lengthfromthepipingcord.PinandstitchthepipingcordtotheRSbagfrontcurvedtopedgeasinThePiping-HotHobo,step131.
8Pinthegussettothebagexterior–takethepipingcordendsandbendthematrightangles,pointingoutofthebagfabric.SeeFigd.PintheRSoftheexteriorgussettotheRSofthebagexteriorfront(overthesticking-outpipingcordends).Takecaretomatchthenotchmarkingsonbothfabricpieces.Ensurethereisanequallengthofexcessgussetfabricateitherend(whichwillbetrimmedofflater).Pinonthegussetside.
FigdBendthepipingcordsdownat90degreessotheystickoutfromthesideedges.
9Stitchthegussettothebagexterior–useaHeramarkeroryourfingernailtotracefirmlyaroundtheoutlineofthepipingcord(throughthegussetfabric)soyoucanmoreeasilyseeittosewaroundit.Withthepipingfootstillattached,stitchthegussettothebagexteriorallaroundthesidesandbottom.Asyousewoverthebumpypipingcordendstakecaretohelpthepipingfootengage(anddisengageattheend)withthepipingcord(feelforitthroughthegussetfabric).Stitchonthegussetside.Trimtheexcesspipingoffbothsidesclosetotheseams.Clipthecurvedseams.SeeFige.Repeatsteps8and9topinandstitchthegussettotheexteriorback.Trimofftheexcessgussetfabricatbothgussettopedges.
Fige1-e2Asyoustitchthegussettotheexteriorfeelforthepipingunderneaththefabric.Stitchascloseasyoucantothepipingwithoutactuallysewingthroughit;clipthecurvedseamtomake
theturned-outbagseamssmooth.
Thebaglining
10Insertaslippocketintothelining–takethelinedslippocketfabricpiecesandfollowthestepsofLinedSlipPockettomakealinedslippocket.PinandstitchthepockettotheRScentreoftheliningbackfabric4cm(11⁄2in)downfromthetopedge.
11Pinandstitchtheliningbagtogether–omittingthepipingcord,assembletheliningasinsteps8and9butleaveagapof15cm(6in)inoneofthebottomedgesoftheliningforturningout.
Thebagflap
12Maketheflaptrimbandandstitchontotheexteriorflap–dividetheflaptrimbiasstripintotwoequallengths.BringthestripsRST,pinandstitchtogetheralongbothlongedgeswitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.IrontheseamsopenandusealoopturnerorsafetypintoturnthetubeRSO.Ironthebandtrim.PinthebandverticallytothecentreRSofthebagflapexteriorandtopstitchinplacealongbothlongedges,closetotheedge.SeeFigf.
FigfTopstitchthebanddownthecentreRSoftheflap.
13Insertthemagneticsnaptotheflaplining–followthestepsofSnapstoinsertthenon-magneticpartofthesnaptotheRSoftheflapliningatthemagneticsnapmarking.
14Stitchthetasseltotheflaplining–placetheheadofthetasselontotheRScentrebottomedgeofthelining(sothefringesofthetassel
pointtowardsthetopedgeoftheflaplining).Stitchthetasselinplaceonthetasselloopcordwitha1cm(3⁄8in)seamallowance.Stitchinforwardandreverseafewtimesforextrastrength.SeeFigg.Trimofftheexcesscordloopfromthetassel.
FiggStitchovertheloopcordofthetasselafewtimesforstrength.
Bestfootforward…Thoughapipingfootisbestforthisproject,youcanalsouseazipperfoottohelpyoustitchclosetothepiping.
15Pinandstitchpipingcordontotheflapexterior–taketheremaininglengthofpipingcordandpinandstitchthecordtotheexteriorflapRSasinThePiping-HotHobo,step6.
16Pinandstitchtheflapliningtotheflapexterior–takethepipingcordendsandbendthematrightanglesasinstep8.PintheRSoftheflapliningtotheRSoftheflapexterior(overthepipingcordends).Stitchtheflapexteriorandliningtogetherasinstep9.TurntheflapRS,smoothoutandusingapressingcloth,ironallovertheRSandWSoftheflap.
Assemblingthebag
17Stitchthebagflaptothebagexterior–pinthebagflapWSUtotheRSofthebagexterior.Placethebagflapontothecentretopedgeofthebagexteriorback.Matchuptherawedgesandstitchtheflaptotheexteriorbagbackwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step19.
18Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–bendthepipingcordendsonthecurvedtopedgeatrightanglessotheyarestickingupfromthetopedge.InserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Pinallaroundthecurvedfronttopedge.Stitchallaroundthetopedge,butstoptoattachthepipingfoottothesewingmachineinordertosewaroundthecurvedhandpipedtopedge.SeeFigh.
FighThebagliningandthebagexteriorhavebeenpinnedandstitchedtogether.Nowjustsnipofftheexcesspipingends.
Confidencebooster…Ifyoudon’tfeelconfidentaboutsewingthepipingunderneaththelayers,tryrunningasoftpencilalongtheedgeofthepiping(throughthefabriclayers).Thiswillleaveyouwithaclearguidetostitchalong.
19TurnthebagRSO–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Pushtherawedgesoftheliningintotheholeandtopstitchthegapshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebag(payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge).SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps5and6.
20Topstitchthetopofthebag–withtheflapopentopstitchallaroundthebagtopedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigi.
FigiAsyoutopstitcharoundthetopedgeofthebagdonotstitchontothepipingatthecurvedtopedgeatthefrontthebag.Keeptothe5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowancefromthetopedgeofthe
exteriorfabriconly.
21Applypoppersnapstothebaggusset–onbothsidesofthegusset,measureandmarkan‘X’1.5cm(1⁄2in)downfromthegussettopedgeand1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromthesideseamsforthepoppersnapplacement.Followtheinstructionsonthepackettoinsertthepoppersnapstothetopedgeofthebaggusset.SeeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step22.
22Finishingtouches–clipthebagstrapontotheD-ringsofthehandleloopsandadmireyourwork!BelowThisstyleofbagmakesagreatalternativetothetraditionalworkhandbag.Thestructure
keepsitlookingsmart,whileyourchoiceoffabricandtrimadduniquepersonalstyle.
7Pinandstitchpipingcordontothebagfrontcurvedtopedge–cuta30cm(12in)lengthfromthepipingcord.PinandstitchthepipingcordtotheRSbagfrontcurvedtopedgeasinThePiping-HotHobo,step6.
8Pinthegussettothebagexterior–takethepipingcordendsandbendthematrightangles,pointingoutofthebagfabric.SeeFigd.PintheRSoftheexteriorgussettotheRSofthebagexteriorfront(overthesticking-outpipingcordends).Takecaretomatchthenotchmarkingsonbothfabricpieces.Ensurethereisanequallengthofexcessgussetfabricateitherend(whichwillbetrimmedofflater).Pinonthegussetside.
9Stitchthegussettothebagexterior–useaHeramarkeroryourfingernailtotracefirmlyaroundtheoutlineofthepipingcord(throughthegussetfabric)soyoucanmoreeasilyseeittosewaroundit.Withthepipingfootstillattached,stitchthegussettothebagexteriorallaroundthesidesandbottom.Asyousewoverthebumpypipingcordendstakecaretohelpthepipingfootengage(anddisengageattheend)withthepipingcord(feelforitthroughthegussetfabric).Stitchonthegussetside.Trimtheexcesspipingoffbothsidesclosetotheseams.Clipthecurvedseams.SeeFige.Repeatsteps8and9topinandstitchthegussettotheexteriorback.Trimofftheexcessgussetfabricatbothgussettopedges.
Assemblingthebag
17Stitchthebagflaptothebagexterior–pinthebagflapWSUtotheRSofthebagexterior.Placethebagflapontothecentretopedgeofthebagexteriorback.Matchuptherawedgesandstitchtheflaptotheexteriorbagbackwitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeTheOrganizedOfficeBag,step19.
18Stitchtheliningbagtotheexteriorbag–bendthepipingcordendsonthecurvedtopedgeatrightanglessotheyarestickingupfromthetopedge.InserttheexteriorbagRSOintotheliningbagWSO.Therightsidesoftheexteriorbagandtheliningbagshouldnowbetouchingeachother.Pinallaroundthecurvedfronttopedge.Stitchallaroundthetopedge,butstoptoattachthepipingfoottothesewingmachineinordertosewaroundthecurvedhandpipedtopedge.SeeFigh.
19TurnthebagRSO–reachintothegapintheliningandpulltheexteriorbagoutthroughthehole.Pushtheexteriorbagintothelining.Pushtherawedgesoftheliningintotheholeandtopstitchthegapshut.Smoothoutanybumpsandironthebag(payingextraattentiontoneateningthetopedge).SeeInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod,steps5and6.
20Topstitchthetopofthebag–withtheflapopentopstitchallaroundthebagtopedgewitha5mm(3⁄16in)seamallowance.SeeFigi.
21Applypoppersnapstothebaggusset–onbothsidesofthegusset,measureandmarkan‘X’1.5cm(1⁄2in)downfromthegussettopedgeand1.5cm(1⁄2in)infromthesideseamsforthepoppersnapplacement.Followtheinstructionsonthepackettoinsertthepoppersnapstothetopedgeofthebaggusset.SeeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step22.
22Finishingtouches–clipthebagstrapontotheD-ringsofthehandleloopsandadmireyourwork!
BelowThisstyleofbagmakesagreatalternativetothetraditionalworkhandbag.Thestructurekeepsitlookingsmart,whileyourchoiceoffabricandtrimadduniquepersonalstyle.
Construction
OnethingIloveaboutbagmakingisafteryouhavemadeafewbagsyousoonnoticethatsomeofthebagconstructiontechniquesandtheorderofconstructionareoftensimilarfromonebagtoanother.Farfrombeingrestricting,thisrepetitionmakesiteasiertobecomemoreexpertatbagmaking,thusleavingyouwithmorebrainspacetodesigngorgeousbags.Effectivebagdesignreliesheavilyonbeingabletoplantheconstructionofabaginyourhead.Thisknowledgecomeswithpractice,butI’mgoingspeedthingsupbylistingtheorderofbagconstructionforyou.
Ifyou’reabag-makingnewbie,don’tworryifthisdoesn’tmakethatmuchsensenow.Afteryou’vemadetwoorthreebagsfromthisbook,oranyotherpatterns,you’llseethatthelistbelowdescribeshowtomakeagivenbagingeneral.Itshowsyouwhatbag-makingbitsneedtobedone(andwhentheyshouldbedone)duringthebag-makingprocess.Itshouldhelpjogyourmemorywhenyouwanttogoonanddesignyourownbags–andIbetitwon’tbelongbeforethathappens!
Generalorderofbagmakingpreparation
1Makeuphandleloops(ifusing).SeeOpen-EndStraps.2Makeuphandles/straps(ifusing).SeeHandlesandStraps.3Makeupbagflap(ifusing).Insertanyclosureintoflap(ifusing)duringflapconstruction.SeeClosures.4Makeupliningand/orexteriorpockets(ifusing).SeeLiningsandPockets.
Smoothoperator…
Smoothoperator…Ifyourinterliningisonthethicksidetrymakingyourliningslightlylesswide(atthetopedge)thanyourbagexterior.Thiswillaccommodatethethicklayersandleaveyouwithaliningthatissmoothatthetopedge.
Generalorderofbagliningconstruction
1Cutliningfabricpiecesfromthepattern.2Interface/interlinefabricpieces(ifusing).SeeChoosingFabricsandInterfacingandInterlining.3Insertpockets(ifusing)toliningfabricpiece(s).SeeFlushZipPocket.4Insertdarts/pleats/gusset/gathers/pleats(ifusing)tofabricliningpieces.SeeStructureandReinforcement.5Addtopedgefastenerssuchasmagneticsnaps(ifusing)toliningpieces.SeeSnaps.6Insertaconcealedtop-edgezip(ifusing).SeeConcealedTopEdgeZip.7Pinandstitchliningfabricpiecestogether(asdetailedineachproject).8Insertaflatbottom(ifusing).SeeFlatBottoms,TheGreatGetawayBag,step26andTheMulti-TaskingTote,step13.
Generalorderofbagexteriorconstruction
1Cutexteriorfabricpieces.2Interface/interlinefabricpieces(ifusing).SeeChoosingFabricsandInterfacingandInterlining.3Insertpockets(ifusing)toexteriorfabricpiece(s).4Insertdarts/pleats/gusset/gathers/pleats(ifusing)tofabricexteriorpieces.SeeStructureandReinforcement.5Addtopedgefastenerssuchastwistlocks/magneticsnapsetc.(ifusing)toexteriorpieces.SeeClosures.6Pinandstitchexteriorfabricpiecestogether(asdetailedineachproject).7Insertflatbottomorgridbagbottomtoexterior(ifusing).SeeFlatBottoms,TheGreatGetawayBag,step26andTheMulti-TaskingTote,
step13.8Insertbagfeet(ifusing)toRSofbagexteriorbottom.SeeTheMulti-TaskingTote,step13.9Stitchbagflap(ifusing)toRSofthebagexterior.SeeTheCocktailRuffleClutch,steps16–20,ThePiping-HotHobo,steps12–17.10*Withready-madebaghandlesattached(ifusing),stitchbaghandleloopstotheRStopedgeofthebagexterior.SeeReady-MadeHandles.11*Attachhandmadebagstraps(ifusing)tobagexteriortopedge.SeeHandlesandStraps.
*Theconstructionorderofthesestepsvarydependingonwhichlininginsertionmethodyouareusing.SeeInsertingLinings:Drop-InMethodandInsertingLinings:PullThroughandTurnOutMethod.
Suppliers
Withtheaidofafewmousefewclicks,yourtrustycreditcardandyourpostbox,awealthoflovelybagmakingandcraftsuppliesfromallovertheworldcanbeyours.AnydayisChristmasDaywhenacraftypackageisdeliveredtoyourdoor!Hereisaselectionofmyfavouriteonlineshops.
UK
U-Handbag
www.u-handbag.com
Myone-stopshopforbagandpursemakingsupplies,patternsandkits.Wedeliverworldwide.
CalicoLaine
01513363939
www.calicolaine.co.uk
Forfabrics,trimmingsandhaberdashery
ClothHouse
02072871555
www.clothhouse.com
Forbeautifultrims,awiderangeoffabricsandgreatqualityfauxleather
Clover
0081(06)6978-2220
www.clover-mfg.com/euro/index/english.html
Forahugerangeofhaberdashery,quiltingsuppliesandequipment
TheCottonPatch
01217022840
www.cottonpatch.co.uk
Forpatchworkandquiltingfabrics,books,wadding,notionsandhaberdashery
FabricRehab
www.fabricrehab.co.uk
Foragoodselectionofquiltfabrics
Gutermann
02085891642
www.gutermann.com
Forfantasticqualitysewingthreads
HarrisTweed&Knitwear
01859502040
www.harristweedandknitwear.co.uk
ForHarrisTweedclothbythemetre–thegenuinearticleandgorgeous!
Janome
01616666011
www.janome.co.uk
MyfirstpurchasedsewingmachinewasaJanome;14yearsonandIstillsewwithaJanome
JohnLewis
08456049049
www.johnlewis.com
Foragoodchoiceofdecoratorweightfabrics
JosyRose
08454501212
www.josyrose.com
Forawideselectionoftrimmings
LePrevo
01912324179
www.leprevo.co.uk
Forleather,suedeandcraftsupplies
MacCulloch&Wallis
02076290311
www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk
Forhaberdasheryandtrimmings,includingbridal
MillcroftTextiles
01159263154
www.millcrofttextiles.co.uk
Forawiderangeofhaberdasheryandbridalandoccasionfabrics
NorfolkTextiles
01263768237
http://shop.norfolktextiles.co.uk
Foragreatchoiceofdecoratorweightfabricsincludingoilcloth
Prym
+49(0)2402/1404
www.prym-consumer.com
Forahugerangeofhaberdashery,equipmentandtrimmings
VVRouleaux
02077303125
www.vvrouleaux.com
Forawideselectionofbeautifulribbonsandtrims
USA
AmyButler
740-587-2841
www.amybutlerdesign.com
Oneofmyfavouritefabricdesigners(withaveryinspirationalwebsite)
Clotilde
800-545-4002
www.clotilde.com
Forsewingandquiltingsupplies.Lotsofsewingadviceontheirwebsitetoo
CreateForLess
1-866-333-4463
www.createforless.com
Forahugesewingandcraftsuppliesatdiscountprices
DreamweaverYarns
1-888-3215648
1-888-3215648
www.dreamweaveryarns.com
Foryarnsandbag-makinghandlesandhardware
Jo-AnnFabric&CraftStores
1-888-739-4120
www.joann.com
Forsewingsuppliesinaone-stopshop
M&JTrimming
800-965-8746
www.mjtrim.com
Forawidechoiceoftrimmingsandaccessories
MoodFabrics
www.moodfabrics.com
Fordesignerfabrics(whenyouwanttopushtheboatout)
PurlPatchwork
800-597-7875
www.purlsoho.com
Forfabric,yarns,andhaberdashery–greatblogtoo!
SewMamaSew
1-503-380-3584
www.sewmamasew.com
Forahugechoiceofmodernquiltingfabrics–andanothergreatblog
WestminsterFibres
1-866-907-3305
www.westminsterfibers.com/fabric.html
ManufacturersofsomeofmyfavouritequiltingfabricsincludingAmyButlerandFreeSpirit
AbouttheAuthor
LisaLamisaLondonCollegeofFashiongraduatewhoownsU-Handbag.com–anonlinestorespecializinginbag-makingsupplies.Atwork(ifyoucouldcallitthat)shedesignsbagsandregularlywritesforcraftmagazines.Shelivesin
BrightonwithherhusbandAlanandtheirveryfriendlydog,Beans.Lisa’ssecondhomeisthecraftingcommunityontheInternet(orcrafti-verse)fromwhichsheblogsandwheresheisconstantlyamazedbythewealthoftalentofherfellowcrafters.
Visitherbloghere:www.u-handbag.typepad.com
Visithershophere:www.u-handbag.com
Acknowledgments
Bigthankstomycustomersandblogreaders–yourwarmthandwillingnesstoshareistrulyinspiring.WithoutyouIwouldhavetogeta‘real’job.ThankstoAmyButlerforbeingalovelylady,acraftheroandfabuloustoworkwith.ThanksalsogotothefolksatDavid&Charles:CharlyBaileyforherdesigntalents,JamesBrooksforkeepingcalm,JennyFox-Proverbsforsaying‘howaboutit?’andbeingmycraftyconfidante,andmyamazingeditorAmeVerso,inventorofthefinetoothcomb.ThankstomyagentJaneGrahamMawfortakingon‘unknown’me.ThankstoChrissieDayforgettingmeintobookwriting.Lastly,thankstoLornaandJackatBangwallopfortakingthelush‘coffeetable’worthyphotosandforcaringasmuchasIdoaboutgettingtheperfectshot.
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