Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles.
FICCI, Mumbai
Supported by Textiles Committee
Overview of Zari industry• No of units-15770
• Artisans Mfg product-1.05 lakh
• Artisans providing support service-0.50 lakhs.
• Equal numbers are benefiting indirectly.
• Total turnover –Rs. 400 crore per annum.
• Provides much needed raw material to sectors like textiles, handicrafts,etc.
Why GI? • Prepare the industry to the global
challenge.
• Protect the product from infringement.
• Ensure legal rights to manufacturers.
• May help in brand building and further market expansion of the product.
Pre-Requisite for GI • Awareness • Study & Documentation
• Historical Origin
• Geographical Region• Production process• Product profile• Uniqueness• How it contributes to sustainability of
stakeholders• Filing of application• Post application follow up
Historical Perspective
• Art of zari making was prevalent in India since ancient times
• The Ramayana, Mahabharata, Rigveda, etc mentioned about Zari craft.
• Megasthenes has also mentioned about the craft in third century B.C.
• Zari industry florished during Muslim rule in India.
• Surat port was important for Haj pilgrims.
• The pilgrims use to stay in Surat for long prior to sail Mecca and spend lavishly on handicrafts.
• During 16th century zari further florished due to patronage of Moguls.
• During Moghuls zari was also exported to middle east.
Historical Perspective (Contd..)
• In 1614, British- East India Company came to Surat forexporting zari and related products to Middle-east andEuropean Countries.
• “Birdwood” in his book “ The Industrial Art of India”(1880) mentioned Delhi and Lahore and Surat asthriving centre of Zari industry.
• Zari Inquiry Committee Report, 1957 has alsomentioned about the importance of industry in thereport.
Historical Perspective (Contd..)
• During Oudh kingdom, the zari craft wasconcentrated in Surat.
• The district admeasures 7745kms and accountsfor 3.95 per cent of the States total geographicalarea.
• It lies between 20 dgree 47’ and 21dgree 34’north latitude and 72 dgre 21’ and 74 dgre 20’east longitude
Geographical Coverage-I
Geographical Coverage-II
Navapura, Wadifalia, Mahidharpura, Sagrampura,
Saiyedpura, Rampura, Gopipura, Udhna, etc.
Production ProcessProcurement of Raw Material
& Preparation
Melting of silver/Copper
Zari Thread Preparation
Drawing of silver/copper wire
Electroplating & Packing
Raw Materials Used
Pure Zari• Cotton yarn• Silk• Art Silk• Silver• Gold
Imitation Zari• Cotton yarn• Silk• Art Silk• Copper• Silver
Pure Zari Production
• Stage I Silver wire drawingmachine (RealZari)”Patla”
Pure Zari Production
• Stage II: Drawing of silver wireinto finer stage
Pure Zari Production
• Stage III:Flattening of silver wire “Flattening Process”
Pure Zari Production
• Stage IV: Wrapping of flat silverwire on base yarn toform real zari ”BitaiProcess”
Pure Zari Production
• Stage V: Pure gold gilding onreal zari thread
Pure Zari Production
• Stage VI:Real zari threadwounded onreel”Reeling Process”
Imitation Zari Production
• Stage I:Cleaning of RawMaterial (i.e copper)
Imitation Zari Production
• Stage II: Drawing of Copper wire
Imitation Zari Production
• Stage III: Copper wire plated bysilver electroplatingprocess”Chandi GilitBankda”
Imitation Zari Production
• Stage IV: Drawing of silver electroplated copper wire into more finer stage ‘Tania Process”
Imitation Zari Production
• Stage V: Flattening of silverelectroplated copperwire to formbadla”FlatteningProcess”
Imitation Zari Production
• Stage VI: Wrapping of flat silverelectroplated wire onbase yarn to formimitation zari “BitaiProcess”
Imitation Zari Production
• Stage VII: Gilding on Imitationzari “GildingProcess”
Imitation Zari Production
• Zari thread flattening machine (Optional)
Imitation Zari Production
• Stage VIII: Imitation zari threadwounded on reel“Reeling Process” orby hand charkha“Skeinning Process”
Products & Specification – Real Zari
Product name :Pure silk based real zari
Raw material :Silver, Pure silk, Pure Gold
Base yarn :Pure silk
Covering metal :Silver on base yarn
Electroplating : Pure Gold
Gauge of silver wire : 50-90 s.w.g
Pure silk yarn count : 16/18
Silver purity : 90%, 78%, 55%, etc
Gold content : 4 to 6 gms used per kg ofreal zari
Products & Specification- Real ZariProduct name :Cotton based real zari
Raw material :Silver, Cotton, Pure Gold
Base yarn :Cotton
Covering metal :Silver on base yarn
Electroplating : Pure Gold
Gauge of silver wire : 50-90 s.w.g
Cotton yarn count : 100/2, 60/2, etc
Silver purity : 92%
Gold content : 4 to 6 gms used per kg of realzari
Products & specification – Real Zari
Product name :Polyester based real zari
Raw material :Silver, Polyester, Pure Gold
Base yarn :Polyester
Covering metal :Silver on base yarn
Electroplating : Pure Gold
Gauge of silver wire : 50-90 s.w.g
Polyester yarn count : 30 denier
Silver purity : 92%
Gold content : 6 gms and more used perkg of real zari
Products & Specification – Real ZariProduct name :Viscose based real zari
Raw material :Silver,Viscose, Pure Gold
Base yarn :Viscose
Covering metal :Silver on base yarn
Electroplating : Pure Gold
Gauge of silver wire : 50-90 s.w.g
Viscouse yarn count : 75 & 55 denier
Silver purity : 92%
Gold content : 6 gms and more used per kg ofreal zari
Products & Specification – Real Zari
Product name :Real Half-fine zari
Raw material :Pure silk, Art silk, Polyester,Cotton, Viscose of differentcounts and deniers
Covering metal :Pure silver or electroplatedcopper wire of different gauges
Electroplating :Pure Gold or Chemicals
Product Description – Imitation Zari
Product name :Pure Silk based Imitationzari
Raw material :Copper, Pure silk, Silvernitrate soln & Chemical
Base yarn :Pure silk
Covering metal :Silver electroplated copperwire on base yarn
Gauge ofelectroplated wire
:80 s.w.g
Pure silk yarncount
:16/18
Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari
Product Description – Imitation Zari
Product name :Cotton based Imitation zariRaw material :Copper, Cotton, Silver nitrate
soln & Chemical
Base yarn :Cotton
Covering metal :Silver electroplated copper wireon base yarn
Gauge ofelectroplated wire
:80 s.w.g
Cotton yarn count :100/2, 60/2,etc
Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari
Products & Specification– Imitation Zari
Product name : Polyester based Imitationzari
Raw material :Copper, Polyester, Silver nitratesoln & Chemical
Base yarn :Polyester
Covering metal :Silver electroplated copper wireon base yarn
Gauge ofelectroplated wire
:80 s.w.g
Polyester yarn count :30 & 50 denier
Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari
Products & Specification– Imitation ZariProduct name :Viscose based Imitation
zari
Raw material :Copper, Viscose, Silvernitrate soln & Chemical
Base yarn :Viscose
Covering metal :Silver electroplated copperwire on base yarn
Gauge ofelectroplated wire
:80 s.w.g
Viscouse yarn count :75 & 55 denier
Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari
Products & Specification– Imitation Zari
Product name :Pure Silk based Imitation zari
Raw material :Copper, Pure silk, Silver nitratesoln & Chemical
Base yarn :Pure silk
Covering metal :Silver electroplated copper wireon base yarn
Gauge ofelectroplated wire
:80 s.w.g
Pure silk yarn count :16/18
Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari
Zari Embroidery Products
Zari Embroidery Products
Zari Embroidery Products
Laces & Borders
Uniqueness-Ia) Surat zari does not get tarnished or
corronated but retain luster & colour afterwash.
a) In electroplating process, industryelectroplate copper wire or silver at thefiner gauge of 36s.w.g and draw the silverrod or copper rod at 31s.w.g .
a) Anealing process (to remove stress fromcopper wire by heating), is used forimitation zari
Uniqueness-II
d) The artisans skill bears generationallegacy and hence unique.
d) The entire machine used in the process arelocally made by artisans.
d) Normally the wire drawn between 1600-1800 yards per ounce but artisans of suratdraw fine wire upto a fineness of 2500yards per ounce thinner than human hair.
Application
Based on the above fact and figures theapplication for GI Registartion isprepared.
Thank You
Stakeholders
• Southern Gujarat Chambers of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI)
• Surat Zari Manufacturer’s Association• All India Federation of Zari Industry• Surat Zari Goods Producer Co-operative
Society Ltd
Structure of the Presentation
• Historical Perspective• Geographical Coverage• Production Process• Product Profile• Uniqueness• Stakeholders
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