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Session 1,2
What is quality
Quality related terms & DefinitionsRef: Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-Mehta and Bharadwaj:Chapter 1
Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-Sara J. Kadolph ;Chapter 2
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How do we define quality?
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Traditional definitions of Quality
Fitness for use- Joseph Juran
Conformance to requirements- Philip
Crosby
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Quality defined "Quality" is defined as that combination of
design and properties of materials of a productwhich are needed for the intended end use and
level of the market in which it is sold.
"Requisite Quality" is defined as the design andcomposition of a product, which has been
thoroughly proved by adequate development
work, in order to establish its reliability under theconditions to which it will be subjected in use
and to avoid producing too high a grade of
product for the intended market.
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Quality Defined A holistic definition of Quality can be
Quality is a dynamic state associated withproducts, services, people ,processes andenvironments that meets or exceeds expectations(Goetsch and Davis 1994)
Can have a (Garvin) Product perspective,
Producer's perspective or
Consumer's perspective
Value perspective
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product
In this view, quality is determined as a precise
and measurable variable and difference in
quality reflects differences in the quality of
some ingredient or attitude seen to be
possessed by a product. In this view quality
and quantity has direct relation
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customer
In this view, definitions are based on the
premise that solely the user determined
quality. Individual customers are assumed to
have different wants or needs and goods
that best satisfy the preference are the one
they regarded, as having the highest
perceived quality. Quality is fitness for usethat this view also reflects a highly
personalized and subjective view
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manufacturing This view focuses on manufacturing and engineering practices. It
emphasis
conformance to specified requirements. The higher the degree that
meets specified
requirements the higher the quality. This view seeks to ensure that
the deviations from
standards set design specifications are minimized.
To achieve the quality of conformance means improving in the design
of the
Equipment
MaterialsSupervision
Control
Training
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Value based
The base for this view is physiological
understanding of the meaning of value.
Consequently, customers have been
conditioned to accept that the quality of
product is determined by the price. There fore
price and quality have a direct relation ship
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Dimensions of quality
Positioning of a company based on Garvin`sModel
1. Performance
2. Features
3. Reliability
4. Conformance
5. Durability
6. Serviceability7. Aesthetics
8. Perceived quality
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Dimensions of quality1.Performance: (will the product do the intended (planed or
proposed) job). Potential costumer usually evaluate a product todetermine if it will perform certain specific functions and
determine how well it perform them.Example: producing document case leather bag, for what purpose does is bag produced,
does the bag has multi function pocket?
2.Reliability: (how often does the product fail?) different products
may need repair over their service life. The leather machineries
should be also reliable so as to increase productivityExample: when we produce the leather garment, it needs higher attention during
stitching. Because the nature of the needle is like cuter edge type and stitch thecomponent by cutting the part. So re stitching is not done, means no repair and only
rejection.
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Dimensions of quality3.Durability: (how long does the product last?).This is the effective service life of the product
customer obviously want products that performed satisfactorily over a long period of time.
4.Serviceability: (how easy is it to repair the product?). There are many industries where thecustomers view of quality is directly influenced by how quickly and economically a repair or
routine maintenance activity can be accomplished.
Example: planned maintenance of stitching machine.
5. Aesthetics: what does the product look like?). this is the visual appeal of the product,
often taking into account factors such as style, color, shape, packaging alternatives and
other sensory features.6.Features :( what does the product do? ). Usually customer associate high quality with
products that have added features: that is, those that has features beyond the basic
performance of the competition
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Helena M de Klerk and Stephina J Lubbe;Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Sciences, Vol 32, 2004
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Quality in the garment Industry
Still at inspection level AQL
Quality is inspected into the product.
A few firms are attempting SPC. Still a long way to go to finally reach global
quality standards
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Why improve quality?
FOB is getting lesser
Delivery time is getting lesser
Costs are increasing.
We need to keep providing better service tohold the buyers attention.
Provide indisputable quality
Provide indisputable quality at better costs.
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Importance of QUALITY
The consumer quality expectations have gone up
Consumer is too busy to come back and complain
Consumer is not interested to take special care of
the product
Consumer spending on apparel has reduced
Stringent consumer protection laws
Stores cannot afford a dissatisfied customer
Working with non-quality vendors is costly
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Terms related to quality
Quality Assurance
1. All those planned and systematic actions
necessary to provide adequate confidence that a
product or service will satisfy given requirementsfor quality.
2. The establishment and maintenance of ALLactivities and functions concerned with the
attainment of requisite quality"
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Terms related to quality Quality Control
1.The operational techniques and the activities used to
fulfill the requirements of quality is called quality
control. It is the regulatory process through which we
measure actual quality performance, compare it withquality goals and act on the difference.
2. The systems required for programming and coordinating
the efforts of the various groups in an organization to
maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is
seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality
Control
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Quality related terms
Quality Management -That aspect of the
overall management function that
determines and implements the qualitypolicy.
Quality System -The organizational
structure, responsibilities, procedures,processes and resources for implementing
quality management
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Session 3,4
What is Quality Standard and Quality
Grade
Different textile and apparelstandards
Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-Mehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 14
Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-
Sara J. Kadolph-Chapter 3
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Standards
Standard a set of characteristics or
procedures that provide a basis for resource
and production decisions.
Standardization - is the process of developing
and applying rules for a consistent and
uniform approach to a specific activity for the
benefit and with the cooperation of allconcerned.
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Standards-uses1. Used to define weights and measures
2. Used to set forth practices and expectations in
the field.3. Used to describe the characteristics of a product
in a precise and consistent fashion.
4. Used to describe a minimum level of
performance and safety.5. Used to convey information about a product or
material in a consistent manner.
6. Enhances efficiencystandardization of parts,
processes and products enables economies ofscale in production.
7. Standardization leads to enhanced competition.
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Types/Levels of standards
Company Standards-describe general characteristics
or features of a product or service or they describe a
required level of performance.
Useful for the design, purchase, development andproduction departments as they may be developed
by the company itself or adopt other organization's
standards for its specific purpose.
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Types/Levels of standards
Industry standards reflect consensus among
companies in an industry or among individual
members of a profession.
Developed by trade associations or
professional bodies.
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Levels/Types of standards
Voluntary standards- allows individuals orcompanies to determine on their ownwhether to adopt a standard.
ASTMone of the largest voluntary standardsdevelopment system in the world
Mandatory standards adoption is required
by law or regulation. Mostly related to healthor safety issues.
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Comparison between Various U.S. Drawstring Standards
Neck area Prohibitions- ASTM Standard (F1816-97) aVoluntary national
standard:
No drawstrings in the hood and neck area of
certain childrens clothing. Only childrens upper
outerwear. Sizes 2t to 12.
Wisconsin Law(ATCP 139)-aState regulation:
No drawstrings in the hood and neck area of allchildrens clothing. All childrens clothing. Sizes 0
to 16.
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Levels/Types of standards
International standards-standards are usedinternationally to facilitate trade and technologytransfer among nations
Goal is to Enhance product quality and reliability at reasonable
prices
Improve health and safety and environmental protection
Reduce hazards
Produce greater compatibility of goods and services
Simplify and improve product and service usability
Increase distribution efficiency
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Different standardizing bodies( refer Sara Kadolph; Mehta and Bhardwaj)
ASQC- American Society for Quality control ASQC_TNT- American society for quality control-textiles
and needle trade division
ASTM- American Society for Testing and Materials
AATCC-American association of textile chemists and
colorists ANSI-American national standards Institution
ISO- International organization for standardization
BSI- British Standards Institute
BIS- Bureau of Indian Standards. AQC of AAMA Apparel Quality committee of American
Apparel Manufacturer's Association.
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Grade
The process of assigning a numerical value
based on the number, size,and severity of
defects observed during a visual inspection;
the symbol, number, or letter used for anystep in a multistep standard reference scale
for a quality characteristic.
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Session 5,6
What is Quality Specification Concept
of Tolerances
Ref: Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-
Sara J. Kadolph-Chapter 3 and 10
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Specifications
Is a precise statement of a set of requirements
to be satisfied by a material, product, system
or service that indicates the procedures for
determining whether each of therequirements is satisfied.
Requirements- are non negotiable.they need
to be met for the specs to be satisfied.
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Specifications
Specs describe requirements- in terms and/or
numerical values.
Minimum is the least or lowest acceptable
value for any given parameter or dimension
Tolerance - describes the range of acceptable
values.
Not all specs will include tolerances
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Types of specifications
Open- allows for consideration of multiple
vendors and includes a description of the
character and /or performance desired in the
product or material to be purchased.
Closed specifies the exact material,
component, or product by manufacturer or
vendor and includes style numbers, tradenames or other such specific identities.
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Application of specifications.
1. Used to describe the materials ,procedures,dimensions and performance for a particularproduct or style.
2. Reflect the standard- co. standards, costs,
customer needs and expectations andimplementation abilities.
3. Used as a communication tool- for production,for suppliers and for customer.
4. To negotiate bids and contracts
5. Used for purchasing materials for production
6. Used as a determinant for quality.
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*Fabric Yardage / Width
*Hand feel / Quality*Color / Print
*Fabric Weight
*Wash & Dry Shrinkage
*Color Fastness* What percent of goods inspected prior to cutting?
* Are shade controlled and segregated by lots at storage stage?
* Use of a light box?
* Spectrophotometer?
* What is the light source used?
* Is there pre-testing on the shrinkage prior cutting?
* How is the pre-testing done?
* Records on shade bands?
SPECIFICATION GUIDELINES FOR PIECE GOODS INSPECTION
h
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Garment spec sheets Specification sheets provide important
details to ensure the correct execution ofpatterns into finished garments.
Spec sheets help to produce accurate
samples, which improves turnaround timeand simplifies communication during all
stages of manufacturing and quality
control.
Spec sheets include detailed technical
diagrams, construction notes, finished
garment measurements, fabric yields and
material and trim details.
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Session7,8
Assignment 1- assigned on 20.08.10;
To be submitted on 27.8.10;
time- 3 hrs(2 sessions) ;
marks -20
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Assignment 1- 20 marks
Prepare a garment specification sheet for a
garment of choice, inspect the garment and
record the inspection report in the
prescribed format. Individual assignment
Criteria of evaluation
Selection of garment- 3 marks
Specification sheet-7 marks
Inspection report 10 marks O
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Session 9,10
Fabric Inspection ;Defects
Testing
Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-
Mehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 2,Pages 14-20 and pg 75-77
and Chapter 3
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Fabric- defects
Woven- Knitted-
Broken end Barre
Broken Pick Birdseye
Coarse end/Pick Coarse yarn
Color Fly Yarn Dropped stitches
Double end/double pick Fine yarn
End out Missing Yarn
Mispick Needle Line
Hole Run
Shade Bar Tucking Defect
Slub .
Thick and Thin Places
..
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Fabric
Inspection And Grading
4 point system
10 point system
Graniteville 78 system
Fabric grading
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Fabric grading
4 point system 10 point systemGraniteville 78
Allows max. 4 penalty
points to one linear yard
Allows max.10 points
per linear yard
Max.no.of pointsper linear yard=
fabric width /9
width in inches.
Points for only lengthwise defects and holes
Warp as well as filling
defects carry points Length of defect iscounted-can be weft
or warp
Not sensitive to width
of fabric
Sensitive to width of
fabric
Sensitive to width
of fabric
Total defect points per
100square yards should
not exceed 40
If no. of penalty points
are
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p y
Size of defects (Inches) Assigned Points
3 inches or less 1
Over 3 but not over 6 2
Over 6 but not over 9 3Over 9 inches 4
All textiles are evaluated on a square yard computation. The formula used to determine the point countlevel of a roll of fabric is as follows:
Total Points x 3,600 = Points per 100 yard2
Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (in)-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10 point system
Size of Defect (Inches) Warp Assigned Points
1 inch or less 1
1 to 5 inches 3
5 to 10 inches 510 to 36 inches 10
Size of Defect (Inches) Weft Assigned Points
1 inch or less 1
1 to 5 inches 3
5 inches to half width 5
Large than half width 10
Fabric Check ListDivision/Season: Style:
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Division/Season: Style:
Fabric Pattern#: Type
Fabric Supplier: Roll #:
Piece Length:
1)General Appearance (against weaving/dyeing/ printing standard): ________
2)Construction:Check against hand standard): ________
3)Width( as specified in contract): ________
4)Piece length (as per tag and packing list): ________
5)Design/Pattern and colors/shades (as per approved strike off or lab dip): ________
-Any repeat variation ________
6)MAJOR DEFECTS
1-Centre to Selvedge variation _________2- End to End shading _________
3-Broken or missing ends/Picks _________
4-Torn ,Wavy, Folded or Tight Selvedges _________
5- Coarse Yarn in Warp or Weft _________
6- Holes _________
7-Double or multiple ends/picks _________
8-Loom stop marks _________
10-Noticeable Shade or filling bars _________
11-Noticeable Dead Crease mark/line _________
12-Noticeable Dye Streaks and stains through the roll _________
13- Bowing or skewing _________
14- Reed marks _________
15-Foreigh matter/soiled yarn _________
16-Neps _________
17-Oil Stains _________18----------- ________
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Gap standards for Piece goods Inspection
i
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Testing
The analysis and evaluation of a material or
product to assess its characteristics, quality
or performance.
Test method- is a definitive procedure for
the identification, measurement, and
evaluation of one or more qualities,
characteristics or properties of a material,
product, system or service that produces atest result.
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Testing of fabrics
Precision: the degree of agreement within aset of observations or test results obtainedby using a test method.
Accuracy: the degree of agreementbetween the true value of the propertybeing tested ( an accepted standard value)and the average of many observations
made according to the test method,preferably by many observers.
Reliability
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Testing conditions
Standard Humidity and temperature
conditions to be maintained-
Relative humidity-65+2%
Temperature 21+1oC(70+ 2oF)
Min. 4 hrs in standard test conditions to reach
equilibrium
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Testing of fabrics Fabric Strength Yarn Count, Yarn Twist, Fabric
construction, Fabric weight and width.
Yarn Slippage
Color fastness- to light, washing, rubbing, sunlight,
perspiration, chlorine ,dry cleaning, heat etc.
Dimensional Changes In Fabrics Due To Laundering, Dry-
cleaning, Steaming, Pressing
Bow and Skewness
Fabric Thickness
Pilling
Abrasion Resistance
T ti f f b i
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Testing of fabrics
Each individual to conduct testing of fabrics in the F&Ttesting lab and record the following in the log book:
1The test being conducted
2.The standard used
3.The test requirements4.Method of testing and
5.The instrument used
6. Any special instructions/ conditions for the test.
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Session 11-14
Testing at lab
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Session 15
Trims DefectsRef: Mehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 3
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Trims Defects
Sewing threads-
Imperfections in the yarn
Finish
Color
Package density
Winding
Yardage
Trims defects Zippers
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Trims defects -Zippers
To check for-
Dimensions
Locks at ends and tab-
to be securely attached
Color of tape
Tape quality- no
wrinkling/puckering
Fading of color on
washing or ironing
Deformities due to
washing/ironing
Kinds of defects-
Ratcheting
Shear
Slider distortion
Sewing
Bottom stop
Hump
Popping
Wrongly placed closures at zip
end
Chemical degradation
Design problems
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Trim Defects
Buttons
Clear holes
Uniform thickness
Color Laundering/ironing/dry
cleaning pressures
No cracked edges or
sharp edges at holes Uniform distance of
holes
Buckles
Sharp edges
Color/material-
appropriate for use
Snap Fasteners
Close properly
Metal quality
No sharp edges afterattaching
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Testing of Trims
Zippers Durability of finish of zippers to laundering
Colorfastness of zippers to laundering
Colorfastness of zippers to light
Colorfastness of zippers to crocking
Colorfastness of zippers to laundering
Durability of finish of zippers to dry cleaning
Resistance of zippers to salt spray (fog)
Measuring of zipper dimensions
Strength tests of zippers
Operability of zippers
Testing of Trims
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Testing of Trims
Buttons
Impact Resistance
Shape
Uniformity
Resistance to Unsnapping - Snap Fasteners
Hook and loop fasteners
peel strength
sheer strength
shrinkage,
color fastness
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Testing of Trims
Elastic-
Resistance to degradation (becoming loose, losing
elasticity) due to laundering
Elastic Limit Testing
Fusible Interlining
Bond Strength
Shrinkage and Stretch
Delamination and Strike back
Testing of Trims
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Testing of Trims
Sewing threads
Friction testing
Colorfastness test & abrasion resistance
Yarn number testing
Twist balance
Shrinkage
Strength and Elongation
Twist
Evenness Diameter (Thickness)
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Mid term
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