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CREDIT
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Of the Path
PanamaIn this country where continents meet there exists anincredible diversity of landscape, culture, and peoples.
For visitors this stunning tapestry provides all themakings for a fantastic journey.
by Victoria De Silverio photographs by Doug Bruce
Punta Caracols cabanas hover over the cwaters of the Caribbean in Bocas del
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One recent afternoon in Boquete, Panama, at the Panamonte Inn & Spa, the countrys oldest hotel, an iguana
was on the loose. Word reached the kitchen, and from behind the swinging doors emerged a silver-haired
matre d, a young chef, and three cooks in aprons and bandanas. The men sized up the situation. Iguana?
one asked. El dragon! corrected the reptiles caretaker, a Frenchman holding an empty box. On his way to
the hotel, he had rescued a pair of alarmingly large iguanas from a man by the side of the road. Dangling by
their tails, with their squat legs bound behind their backs, the iguanas had been saved from a fate that no doubt
involved a steaming pot and garlic. But now one of the prehistoric beasts had escaped its cardboard co-op
to explore the amenities of a brand new suite. The general manager, a beanstalk of a Welshman, watched in
amusement as the macho iguana whisperers accepted the rescue mission. Welcome to Panama.
A bizarre and beautiful little country,
Graham Greene once wrote about Panama.
The squiggly bracelet connecting two conti-
nents is so perplexing, its history so rife with
treason and intrigue, that a dry understate-
ment must suffice. As both a barrier and
a bridge, Panama has been a magnet for
seekers, scoundrels, and visionariesfrom
Spanish conquistadors to English privateers
Sir Francis Drake and Captain Henry Mor-
gan, from gold-hungry 49ers and French
and American entrepreneurs to the 70,000
Panama Canal workers, not to leave out a
fair-weather CIA operativedictator, and
sneaky bankers and prospectors.
Now, after 20 years of stable democracy
and autonomy over its canal, the nation is
experiencing its moment of reinvention.
With one of the fastest growing economies
in the world, Panama has recently ushered
in vast investments in its infrastructure and
the renaissance of Casco Viejo, Panama
Citys captivating colonial section. Diversity
in geography, ecology, and culture is the
reigning theme on the isthmus and the
presence of so much of it provides visitors
with chances for adventure. Crossed by
rugged volcanic mountain ranges, covered
with large tracts of pristine rain forest, and
bounded by two coastlines and some 1,500
islands, Panama bears a name meaning an
abundance of fish and butterflies. In an
area smaller than South Carolina live more
bird species than in all of North America
and more plant and tree species than in
North America and Europe combined.
Seven indigenous peoples thrive here.
Choosing among all the possible attrac-
tions can be difficult, though quick and
easy plane rides, good roads, and short
distances make the editing process less
painful. Weve chosen three destinations
worth exploring: Casco Viejo; the verdant,
coffee-famed mountain town of Boquete;
and the unspoiled Bocas del Toro region,
a land of beaches, jungles, and traditional
cultures. Together, these present a vivid
picture of Panamas natural and man-made
wonders, its people as well as its history, and
the many who have passed through it like
so many ships through the famed canal.
Panama Bay with the sparkling metropolis of
Panama City in the distance
CREDIT
From Casco Viejo, the view across the
bay of the modern section of Panama City
seems like a hallucination. With scores of
soaring skyscrapers tangled among hun-
dreds of cranes, the gleaming, overnight
metropolis stands in stark counterpoint to
the romantic yet gritty old quarter. Over the
past few years, the gradual renovation of
the old town, which has brought new res-
taurants, cafs, and hotels, is giving people
a fresh reason to stay in Panama City.
The old town might not exist if it werent
for the greed of Captain Henry Morgan.
When he sacked Panama City in 1671, a
ruinous fire forced the Spanish to relocate
to a smaller, more easily fortified penin-sula 5 miles to the south. The quarters
unusual architectural makeupa mlange
of French and American neocolonial,
neoclassical, and Art Nouveau stylesis
historically unmatched. Yet from the 1920s
to the 1950s, the elite abandoned Casco
Viejo and the quarter descended into squa-
lor. The tide turned in 1997 when Unesco
designated the 142-acre quarter a World
Heritage site, jump-starting an ambitious
revitalization. Casco Viejo possesses a past
that is very much pushing up against its
future. Crumbling churches and houses
with trees sprouting from their sides stand
shoulder to shoulder with preciously reno-
vated mansions. Yet despite its rough edges,
Casco Viejo is a living museum and a great
place to spend two or three days.
The quarter follows a rectangular grid
centered on Plaza de la Independencia,
planted with tropical pink poui and poin-
ciana trees and dominated by the stunning
Metropolitan Cathedral, which took more
than 108 years to build. Its two white bel-fries, encrusted with mother-of-pearl shells
from the Pacific coasts Las Perlas islands,
sparkle the brightest just before sundown.
Nearby must-see sites include the Museo
del Canal Interocenico de Panam, with
its illustrated history of the canal, and the
unassuming Iglesia de San Jos, which
holds a famed golden baroque altar once
hidden from the treasure-aholic Morgan by
a cunning priest who had it painted black.
Along Avenida Central, the neighborhoods
thoroughfare, stop in Manolo Caracol,
known for its 12-course market-fresh menu.
Afterward go to nearby Granclment for a
honey ice cream or mango sorbet.
Not far away is Plaza Bolvar, an elegant
square named for the independence leader
and lined with sidewalk tables where
restaurateur Jorge Zarak owns three eater-
ies: Ego Caf (featuring Peruvian tapas);
Narciso (Italian fare); and Ciao Pescao
(ceviche). Recently the latter received a
rare rave from Aristloga, the much-feared
food critic for Panama Citys La Prensa.
Catty-corner is the 18th-century Iglesia
de San Francisco de Ass, where a rickety
climb up the belfry culminates with a
birds eye view of the quarter. Also on
square is the refined Salon Bolvar, wh
a replica of El Libertadors golden sw
coated in 1,374 diamonds, is on view,
the Teatro Nacional, a venue for ope
plays, and ballets. At the waterfront ne
Plaza de Francia, see the remains of t
Union Club, built in 1917 for Panam
elite, and imagine what it might look
after the owner of New York Citys Ho
on Rivington transforms it into a swan
hotel over the next few years. Further
the seawall is El Mercado de Marisco
lively fish market. Pick out fresh lango
tinos, octopus, lobsters, or fish, and ha
the restaurant upstairs cook them, bu
specific about the preparations; the P
manian ideal is fried until bone-dry.
Until the handful of boutique hote
rently under construction open, try ei
The Canal House, a restored 117-yea
mansion with a wraparound veranda
just three opulent guest rooms, or Lo
Cuatro Tulipanes deluxe apartment
with all the benefits of hotel living.
CASCO VIEJOPanama Citys revamped
and vibrant old quarter
The patio of the abandoned Club de Clases y Tropasin Casco Viejo, once a hangout of General Noriega
TheBristolHotelsbarin Panama
Citysfinancial district
Casco Viejo
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bathroom mosaics; a vase of fresh flowers;
or an antique wood box containing a sur-
vival kit (with natural mosquito repellent,
citronella candles, and a flashlight).
Top-notch seasonal meals offer simple
spins on local recipes, with most of the
ingredients coming from the propertys
profuse gardens. Really, you just toss
seeds, and something grows, the soil is
so rich, says Margaret Ann. Dishes likegrilled jackfish served over coconut rice,
and steamed katuk, a tropical green that
tastes like a nutty kale, are full of flavor
and presented with care.
Punta Caracol, the photogenic aqua-
lodge off the coast of Isla Coln, is so
iconic it could be the Eiffel Tower of
Bocas. Its chartreuse thatch-roofed cabanas
are suspended on stilts over turquoise
waters. The two-story cabins appear like
charms on a bracelet linked together by a
long wooden walkway. Owner Jos-Luis
Bordas originally devised the project as
his business school thesis. Initially there
were no roads, electricity, or a water sup-
ply, but the industrious Barcelona native
persevered and, four years later, his lodge
started accepting guests. Bordas and his
team of workers made by hand all the cab-
ins, the guest room furniture, the dining
room tables and chairs, even the mosquito
netting. In each, the first floor has a sitting
area with doors that open onto a terrace
sporting two sun beds; upstairs the lovely
bedroom has soft lighting, a four-poster
canopy bed, and a view of the horizon.
Punta Caracols most endearing luxury is
that at any time of day or night, guests have
immediate access to swimmingor snor-
keling or kayakingaround a coral reef
rife with parrot fish, snappers, and crabs.
From either La Loma or Punta Caracol,
travelers can have their pick of sensational
day excursions such as diving amid the
coral forests of Cayos Zapatillas, tracking
red-billed tropic birds and brown boobies
on Isla de los Pjaros, watching leather-back turtles nest on Bluff Beach, or surfing
on Red Frog Beach.
Soposo Rainforest Adventures, an out-
fitter that guides trips in the mountainous
jungle of Bocas del Toro, offers a way to
leave the tourist bubble. The Naso people
have lived there for more than 3,000 years,
but only about 3,500 are left, divided
into 11 communities along the Teribe
and Changuinola rivers. Their unique
culturetheir nation is the only one in
the Americas governed by a monarch
under serious threat. The most imm
ate one is pressure from the Panaman
government for people to leave their
to allow for dam-building projects.
Amistad National Park, a Unesco
World Heritage site hosting an incred
500 species of birds and 130 species o
orchids, borders the area visited by S
Rainforest Adventures. From Bocas,
ride takes guests to the town of El Silcio. Then its a float up the Teribe in
green dugout canoe with an eagle m
and a jungle hike past clucking chick
yapping dogs, and maybe even a gigan
pig, until a cluster of three Naso house
on stilts made with jira and palenquill
palms appear. In Sieyik, the Naso cap
children perform dances in honor of s
and wild cats, and when its time to le
guests ride traditional balsa rafts back
toward home.
ADDATRIPTOKUNAYALAThe isolated Kuna Yala archipelago, a string of 365 coral
islands that hug Panamas coast near Colombia, is part of the semi-autonomous homela
of the Kuna Indians, who in 1925 won independence from Panama. Few ancient tribes ha
been as successful in preserving their culture and controlling their own destiny. Survivi
mostly off the coconut trade and fishing, the Kuna Indians welcome a limited number o
ists. The Yandup Island lodge (from $100/night a person; yandupisland.com) offers thatc
overwater cabins with wooden floorsa luxury for the areaand terraces overlooking t
and the misty jungle. The settinggrassy, palm-studded Yandup Islandis not much la
than some miniature golf courses. Included in the price are meals and escorted day trip
dugout canoes to deserted islands for swimming and snorkeling. The lodges use of outb
motors is a rare concession to modernity. To see secluded spots like the Kuna village Pla
Chico, forgo a group tour and ask for a private, less conspicuous visit. Densely packed w
huts (some sinking along the waters edge) and filled with children, the village feels mag
Albinos comprise a high percentage of the local population (1 in 165). Kids play basketba
baseball, and soccer simultaneously on the same court; elders confer in large halls; and
in the middle gather with flutes on dirt streets to practice a dance involving hopping on
foot. Within this matriarchal society, women show off their status by wearing molas, pa
terned silk squares that are the centerpiece of their centuries-old style of everyday dres
well as multiple strings of orange and green beads on their forearms and calves.
Handmade chocolate atLa Loma Jungle Lodge
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BOCAS DEL TOROEcotourism meets elegantcabanas, jungle tree-houses, and tribal lands
When Columbus returned to the Carib-
bean shores in 1502, he was a pitiful old
man, suffering from gout, malaria, arthritis,
and a serious case of the sads. Though he
found bargains (trading cheap hawks bells
for golden breastplates), his mission wasto find a shortcut to the Indian Ocean.
One bright spot on his fourth and final
voyage must have been Bocas del Toro, the
paradisaical archipelago off the northwest-
ern coast of Panama near Costa Rica; the
explorer named a bay and two islands, Isla
Cristobal and Isla Coln, after himself.
Fast-forward more than 500 years, and the
isleswhere dense jungle melts into white-
sand beaches, fringed by mangroves and
vibrant coral reefsare still unspoiled.
While its perhaps difficult for a new-
comer to imagine, the areas chief city of
Bocas Townwith its colorful two-story
balconied buildings, backpacker hostels,
and wacky gringo nightclubs straight out
a Jimmy Buffet songonce sizzled as a
banana boomtown with six foreign embas-
sies and five newspapers. In 1899, the
United Fruit Company opened its Panama
headquarters in Bocas Town on Isla Coln,
recruiting workers from all over the Carib-
bean. But by 1935, a series of fires had
ravaged most of the colonial houses and a
fungus had devastated the crops.
Over the past few years, yet another
boom has hit Bocasin tourism and real
estate. On the surface, Bocas appears a
postcard Caribbean idyll, but just under-
neath is remarkable ethnic diversity. Today
more than 50 different nationalities coexist
while dozens of dialects ring through the
air. Three indigenous groupsthe Ngbe-
Bugl, Bribr, and Nasolive there.
Small ecologically and culturally
oriented retreats offer a definition of luxury
that goes beyond thread count. La Loma
Jungle Lodge, on Isla Bastimentos, isa 20-minute boat ride away from Bocas
Town, hidden from the dock by a mess of
mangroves and palms. Proprietors Henry
Escudero, a Peruvian-born archaeologist,
and his partner Margaret Ann, an English
museum specialist, elevate self-sufficiency
to an art form. A typical scene includes
Bolivia, a Ngbe-Bugl woman, roasting
cocoa beans over an outdoor fire; Mr.
Kelly, a Creole, tending to the trees with
the Escuderos 2-year-old Lucio in his
arms; Henry baking bread in the kitchen;
and Margaret Ann making a batch of fresh
lemongrass tea or packing lunches for
guestsall while Goose, a fluffy mutt,
chases butterflies and frogs. The propertysthree solar-powered cabins, crafted mostly
from already fallen trees, have elegant
observation decks. Flocks of parrots, tribes
of fuzzy monkeys, and croaking poison
dart frogs provide entertainmentbest
enjoyed from a hammock or a cozy bed.
With the surrounding jungle as decor,
the extra details are stylishly minimal:
Guests at Soposo Rainforest Adventuresstay in one- or two-bedroom huts.
Three Naso boys
Mati the spider monkey
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