8/22/2019 Necrotic Flesh Optimized for Tablet
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how to paint necrotic fleshWelcome to the rst tablet optimized painting instructional from
the Paintshop of Horrors. If you see this icon, then the image
has an interactive quality such as a magnied image in a pop up
window. Just scroll over the image and it will activate automatically.
Today, we are going to learn how to paint simple necrotic esh
for use with any sort of undead miniatures such as zombies, esh
golems, or in this case Necromutants from Prince August.
Now before we begin, make sure that you remove all the ash and
mold lines from your model. Please be careful when using the model
knife and scrape away from yourself. As far as undercoat goes, for
this particular instructional I went with a black undercoat. I think for
this one I used Citadel Black Primer, but Ive also had really good
results with Testors Flat Black Spray paint.
Paint colors needed:
Ceramcoat Sandstone (P3 Jack Bone works ne as well)
Ceramcoat Charcoal Gray (any dark gray will do)
Cermcoat Seminole Green (Gretchin Green works nicely as well)
The model was then coated with a mixture of 40% Ceramcoat
Sandstone, 20% Ceramcoat Charcoal Grey, and 20% Ceram-
coat Seminole Green. If you are using Reaper Master Paints, the
Unblooded Flesh Triad is perfect for this. You can also use Citadel
Rotting Flesh mixed with a touch of Scorched Brown.
At this point, I have washed over the esh areas with Reaper
Brown Ink mixed with Ceramcoat Burnt Umber. I always suggest
adding a drop of ow improver in order to insure that your wash
stays put. If you are feeling really adventurous, a very small amount
of Future Floor Sealer can also really help your wash stay in place ...
just make sure you dont use too much.
At this step, I have gone and picked out the raised areas with the mix-
ture I used earlier to basecoat. To make this technique work, you want
to avoid getting paint into the deepest recesses (contours of the muscles,
the deeper furrows on the face). What this will do is set up the shading
to give you softer more life-like shading on your musclature.
Once that dried, I added more Ceramcoat Sand Stone to the mix-
ture, this time hitting the high points and making sure to not get
paint into the shallow recesses. Those would be areas such as the
muscle contour on the forearm, the shallow furrows along his check
line and areas like that.
Step Four sees us doing a light glaze to the eshy areas using a
very watery mixture of Ceramcoat Burnt Umber mixed with a touch
of Ceramcoat Seminole Green. Yes, Green. Nothing says rot and
decay like a slight tint of green on the eshtone.
The nal stage mainly sees a highlighting of raised areas with
pure Sandstone. From here you can also drybrush with a lighter
color as well.
stepone
ste
ptwo
stepthree
stepfour
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