S P I R I T O F T H E M O U N T A I N
MicroShinerI n s p I r I n g a W o r l d o f C r a f t s p I r I t s
WINTER 2015$15.00 US
W I n t e r 2 0 1 5
1618
1410
Letter From the Publisher
Drinking Music
Spirit Review—Crater Lake Pepper Vodka
Places to Enjoy—The Rose, Jackson Hole, WY
Crafting Cocktails—Adam Dickerson
10th Mountain Whiskey & Spirit Co. - Vail, CO
Loggerhead Deco - Chicago, IL
Exploring Vermont’s Craft Spirit
Pairings —Caledonia Spirits
Winter Gear Round Up
Tahoe Moonshine - South Lake Tahoe
Cocktails - High Altitude Apres
9
winter
2015 contents
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Photo by David Turner « MicroShiner.com | PAGE5
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©2014 All rights reserved. The contents of this magazine cannot be duplicated without the prior written consent of the owner. The views
contained within the contents of MicroShiner Magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of its owners or staff.
Cobey Williamson
David Schreib
Jeffrey Mattson
Brian CaryKelsey Binder
PublisherEditor at LargeMusic Director
Staff ContributorWebmaster
Alex H. Dowley
Karen Clayton
Contributing Writers
John StephensonContributing
Photographers
Andy Shelter
John Stephenson
Giselle Hellemn
Janie Viehman
Contributing Design Madison Angus
Ian Gregory
David Turner
Drew de la RosaMatthew Hedgpeth
Rob Durkee
Ryan MurphyMarketing & EventsChi Pham Social Media
Jeremy Jensen
Tim Wenger
Alex H. Dowley
Photo by Jeremy Jensen « MicroShiner.com | PAGE7
In the tradition of the Salish band of native Americans, winter is the time for storytelling. The creation story of their tribe can only be told during the winter, and in days of yore the long northern night was spent gathered around the tepee fire, listening to elders relate tales that are the living history of the Salish people, a mythology that serves to connect the tribe to its future as much as its past.
It seems appropriate then that with this Winter issue we tell you of another story being told. While technically not a myth, it certainly contains elements synonymous with one: fabrication, allegory, and nectars of the divine. And like a myth, whether or not to accept it as true is entirely up to you.
There is a lot of differing opinion on what makes a spirit craft. Some tout terms like “grain to glass”, where producers turn raw ingredients into drinkable spirit all under one roof. Others focus entirely on the palette, taking neutral grain spirits sourced from industrial scale manufacturers and transforming them into exquisitely formulated works of liquid art. Both have their merit. It’s when their story gets told that the trouble begins.
A phrase currently buzzing around is “crafty, not craft,” as it takes little more than a tote full of sourced whiskey and some clever marketing to create a successful craft label. Much of the talk about craft spirits, and even a few lawsuits, seems to revolve around this very fact. Fingers are being pointed, most of them at the producers. People heard a good story and they bought it. But in some cases, the story wasn’t quite true.
Now where there has been outright deception, we take a hard line. Bottles must be labeled according to the law, which requires that the
location of actual distillation be disclosed. But we bristle at the notion that the onus
lies only with producers. How many of the offended, we ask, ever bothered
to confirm where their favorite craft whiskey was being made?
theLetter from
Craft culture is founded on two tenets: authenticity and responsibility. At the heart of this matter, that is what we are discussing, and both have been compromised. The craft spirit enthusiast expects that what they are buying is not just repurposed Beam in a fancy bottle, but ultimately they can hold only themselves accountable for ensuring that it’s true.
It is the consumer’s responsibility to determine what their definition of value is, and to seek out and support those producers, and only those, who share a similar set of values in their product. Some of these spirits taste great; perhaps that is what you value. Some are made with a concern for developing local capacity; some are made with a consideration for terroir. Each individual label has been created around a certain set of values, but it is up to the individual consumer to evaluate them based upon their own.
My personal ideal incorporates elements of all these things, and I am fortunate that my local micro-distiller, Montgomery Distillery, shares my view. But if I go somewhere else, I don’t want Ryan’s gin; I want something local, and it is up to me to ask for it. Even then, I have to educate myself so I can be certain my choices align with my values. I can’t expect producers to do this for me, and neither can you.
In this issue, you will find craft spirits that were made using NGS or sourced whiskey. TINCUP, for example, is a sourced whiskey, cut and bottled in Colorado. Jeff at Tahoe Moonshine uses a small amount of NGS in some of his products. Ron and Jeremy Elliot use neutral grain spirits as the basis for their award winning products at Smuggler’s Notch.
Does this mean they’re not craft spirits?
I don’t think so, but then again, I’m not you. And that opportunity for personal determination is the point, and the beauty, of enjoying craft spirits.
Cobey WilliamsonPublisher
PUBLISHER
Recalling early American
punk like The Ramones and
The Misfits but with a little
more temper. Denim jackets,
raunchy guitar, cigarettes,
cheap beer and a self evident
ethos. It’s vigilantly hasty,
negligently electric. “If the
taste makes you ill, don’t
mind me or my pills”. Junky
patterned couch, the stale
smell of boot sweat and wet
ski gear, muted static on the
tv, I’m feeling crunch hap-
py and it’s searing through
an old boombox. Crank up
the punch and drive a little
faster. If you’re feeling that
spanning itch of some tem-
pered punk, then they’re
your mother superior baby.
By Jeffrey MattsonDRINKING MUSIC
Drinking MusicMississippi | Las Cruces | Los Angeles | Brooklyn
Music and spirits are inextricably intertwined. Whether it’s
the rat pack & martinis, the jazz age and bathtub gin, sa-
loon whiskey and a player piano, or just pickin’ on the
porch with a jar of shine, where you find one, you will like-
ly find the other. So many analogies exist between the two
that we felt, as a magazine about craft and spirits, inclined
– nay almost obliged – to dedicate some space to music.
Music is a craft. Doing it well depends on bringing a number of
elements together in just the right proportions, and like craft
spirits the resultant product is always greater than the sum
of its parts. Differences in equipment, training, ingredients,
recipes are reflected in subtle, and sometimes not so subtle,
variations in character, flavor, tenor, and tone. Each begins
with a handful of raw material that, through a practiced and
perfected process, culminates in a refined and handcrafted
product, often for no greater purpose than sheer enjoyment.
Just as it is in the spirits business, the music market is awash
with corporate product. Artists are groomed and selected based
on one thing: their ability to sell records. All of the coarse-
ness and irregularity is eliminated, and much of the nuance
and the intangible lost. To paraphrase Neil Young at the onset
of the digital age, the real music lives between the 0 and 1.
In that regard, and in keeping with the theme of this pub-
lication, what we hope to offer you here is that space
between the step and the curve that is so important, yet
often goes overlooked. Here we hope to share some bands
and music that you might just find playing onstage in your
local tasting room or watering hole. Here, as with the micro-
distilleries we focus on, you just might happen upon some-
one you know, and together enjoy a little drinking music.
Bass Drum of DeathRip This
DIY garage rock from Oxford, Mississippi with classic punk resolve. John
Barrett and late-comer Len Clark. It’s time to get down to brass tacks.
PAGE10 | MicroShiner.com
Photos by Micke Keysendal
The Low CultureScreens
Dirty 4-piece from Las Cruces, New Mexico and signed to Dirtnap Records.
Chris, Sam, Cade and Joe. They play instruments.
Big UpsEighteen Hours of Static
Brooklyn, New York. Joe Galarraga, Amar Lal, Carlos Salguero Jr. and Brendan
Finn. Part punk, part post-hardcore, whatever.
“I’m tired of waiting, so I’m
not waiting”. Punk rock,
garage. This is what you’d
expect, glorious drum fills,
exasperated yet furious
guitars. Straight forward,
stripped down, filled with
resentment, filled with sen-
timent. These zealous dudes
ain’t here for you. Paint’s
still peeling on the 1989
Toyota, a couple bucks in my
pocket, haven’t showered in
days, but we’re gonna cause
a riot. Beyond this, my lar-
ynx couldn’t help but sting,
but I was sweaty, exhausted,
and reclaimed. Maniacal and
vicious, persistent and racing
rhythm section, no superflu-
ous riffing. To quote the song
“California”, “tonight I’m
getting f***ed up in Califor-
nia drinking whiskey on the
beach”, you heard em, grab
some whiskey and quit watch-
ing tv, it’s time to ramp your
heart with some distortion.
They’re a good fraction
melodic lulls, and they’re
equally rabidly energized,
they sound exhausted man.
Shrill anthems. Existential
crises abound. Punk sans
the politically charged emo-
tions, and punk drawing
from modern disillusion-
ment. “I think what I’m try-
ing to say is, I don’t wanna
live a life like this”. Scents of
Fugazi and Saetia. A glazed
city, the sun’s gone down,
and we’re all faceless, point-
less, they’ve had enough,
breaking rank and flaunt-
ing feedback and distortion.
The personal psychosis one
undergoes watching Black
Friday unfold as you grapple
for a reason why. “I think it’s
fine, it doesn’t really bother
me” they quip sarcastical-
ly. Quick and to the point
with unthinkable rapture.
Winter 2015
Apparently named after the
lead singer’s ex-girlfriend
who stole all the band’s gear
and sold it at varying and as-
sorted pawn shops. It is with
that sentimentality in mind,
should we embrace the den-
sity of this band. Parts folk,
parts blue grass, parts alt-
rock. Upbeat, vivacious, filled
with fervor. One must ardently
dance with so lush a trouble
on your soul. The themes have
us clutching our hearts, the
music has us dancing in the
night. It’s the perfect recipro-
cation following redemption.
Acoustic guitar plucks, ram-
bling fiddles, babbling ban-
jos and a rhythm section that
draws the distinctly folk blue
grass instrumentation in the
alt-rock direction. “Every day I
see your face in these dead end
streets”. Indeed indeed. Hand
me the moonshine darling,
tonight we dance as ghosts.
Rose’s Pawn ShopGravity Well
Straight outta the wild wild west, good old Los Angeles, southern California.
Paul Givant, Tim Weed, John Kraus, Stephen Andrews and Christian Hogan.
The Far WestAny Day Now
Los Angeles based. Lee Briante, Robert Black, Aaron Bakker, Brian Bachman and
Michael Whiteside. Where are we going? Traveling partners for the exquisitely
rash. Alt-folk rock americana.
With hints of Dylan, Cash,
and The Band we’re riding
that exploratory spirit. Mod-
ern takes on all. Gospel or-
gan. “Everyone’s chasing a
ghost…..everyone’s the next
James Dean”. I’m in Okla-
homa during the prohibition
and I’ve stumbled upon some
sweet dark drink after months
of sobriety and wandering in-
trospective thoughts. Desper-
ate tumbleweeds nip at my
city slicker boots. I’m a poor
man’s angst. These guys are
the best parts of an adventur-
ous America. Smoke filled bar,
good friends, player piano, we
ain’t got a worry but for the
whiskey in our hands and the
subtle drawl in our hearts.
DRINKING MUSIC
Winter 2015
For those who prefer not having some guys in a boardroom determine
how their skis should fit.
Create your perfect skis at wagnerskis.com/getfitted.
CUSTOM-FIT AND PRECISION-CRAFTED IN PLACERVILLE, COLORADO, USA.
Located along the periphery of the Willamette National Forest, Bend, Oregon
is home to Bendistillery and its slew of award-winning Crater Lake brand Spirits. Drawing
inspiration from the natural volcanic activity of the nearby Cascade mountain range, the craft
distillery filters their vodka repeatedly through crushed lava rock, producing a smooth spirit
with a decidedly clean finish.
Winter Warmer:
SPIRIT REVIEW Words by Ian Gregory / Photos by Giselle Hellemn
Crater Lake Pepper Vodka - Bendistillery, OR
A more exotic offering from
the stills at Bend is their bold
Handcrafted American Pepper
Vodka, an 80 proof formula-
tion that infuses their origi-
nal recipe with the heat and
flavor of no less than five dif-
ferent strains of potent pep-
per. The result of this process
sees the pure, mountain-wa-
ter qualities of Crater Lake’s
standard overtaken by the
aggressive addition of spice,
creating a taste profile which
is more reminiscent of the
liquid magma found flowing
beneath Willamette Valley.
Billed as the “perfect spirit”
for a Bloody Mary, Bendis-
tillery’s fiery infusion does
work well amidst the other
bold ingredients of the classic
brunch cocktail. Regardless
of the complexity of the reci-
pe, the heat and finish of the
Pepper Vodka is never lost in
the shuffle, holding its own no
matter what inventive accou-
trement may be added to the
glass. This tenacious quality
has surely played a signifi-
cant part in Bend’s product
becoming the favored founda-
tion of local mixologists craft-
ing their own unique concoc-
tions for the ski town clientele
of Mt. Bachelor. It is certainly
not hard to imagine sleeping
in on a crisp, Cascade morn-
ing, only to rouse yourself for
another day on the slopes by
knocking back a Bloody or
two containing a healthy pour
of Crater Lake’s spicy spirit.
Outside of the tasty, tomato
juice libation and left to stand
on its own, however, this
pepper-packed vodka tends
to bring more heat than most
people can handle, even if you
should find yourself within
the snowy confines of the
Pacific Northwest. Served neat
or chilled, the straight liquor
offers an interesting experi-
ence for the nose. While there
is definitely the distinct aroma
of a high quality grain distil-
lation, the more pronounced
impression is the warmth of
pepper, which engulfs the si-
nuses like the spicy wisps
of steam wafting up from a
jalapeño-laced pizza. This
unmistakable scent is just a
prelude to the real heat lin-
gering within the sienna hued
vodka. At first sip, the spirit
is smooth in texture but jar-
ring in taste. Though there
is a hint of garden freshness
in the background, the brief
bright notes are soon out-
matched by a heavy spice,
not unlike the sensation one
would achieve by biting into
PAGE14 | MicroShiner.com
a raw pepper. On the finish,
the silkiness of the liquor
leads to a rapid coating of the
mouth and throat in a way
that gives new meaning to the
term “firewater”. The linger-
ing flavor is not quick to leave
the tongue, so even a slow-
sipping pace would only suit
those who enjoy a particularly
spicy palate. The truly adven-
turous may even dare to at-
tempt a shooter, but the only
reward for an act so bold is
an instant case of heartburn.
Despite its nearly over-
whelming heat, Crater Lake’s
703.885.1483www.1000oaksbarrel.com
Perfect for your brands, promotions, packaged products and more
One of a kind Barrels.You personalize the rest.
Pepper Vodka does pack
enough punch to stand its
ground when incorporated
into the increasingly elabo-
rate mixes of today’s Bloody
Mary. The natural infusion
of spice into the lava rock-
filtered liquor also eliminates
the need to add hot sauce,
which can sometimes taint a
cocktail with oil and preser-
vatives. Though its fiery flavor
is certainly not for everyone,
don’t be surprised to see this
Bendistillery spirit catching
on as the go-to for Bloodys
being poured well beyond
the slopes of Mt. Bachelor.
Winter 2015
The earthy aroma and distinct warming of refined whiskey, served in seductive high-back red
leather booths under the bawdy glow of crystal chandeliers... a setting reminiscent of when the
likes of Jim Bridger, Jedediah Smith, and David Jackson walked the snow-strewn streets.
Cathouse Cocktails:
PLACES TO ENJOY By John Stephenson
The Rose, Jackson, WY
And yet, a bordello-inspired
gin mill seems well suited to
this traditional cowboy town,
where the biggest landmarks
are named for breasts - “Les
Trois Tetons”.
The Rose is the first and only
classically inspired cock-
tail lounge in Jackson Hole.
Opened just three years ago,
in collaboration with New
York’s renowned Death &
Company, their loyal clien-
tele includes both locals and
returning visitors. Key to the
success of this sexy saloon is
an emphasis on mixed drinks
prepared from fresh ingredi-
ents and quality craft spirits.
The staff of skilled mixologists
exhibit exacting standards in
their execution, and continue
to seduce and amaze even the
regular customers with inno-
vative punches and specialty
cocktails.
After a day in the powder,
nothing warms the body and
arouses the soul like a whis-
key-inspired libation, and
PAGE16 | MicroShiner.com
in this mountain town the
wizards at the Rose are the
indisputable masters. Along-
side such popular cocktails
as the Spy Hunter (Conne-
mara Irish whiskey, Yellow
Chartreuse, lime, mint, Berg
& Hauck’s celery bitters) and
the Shady Business (Ritten-
house 100 rye, Fernet-Bran-
ca, maple, lemon, mint), new
mixes are concocted daily.
The Sour Puss, Hell’s Half-
Acre and the William Munny,
recently represented the Rose
at the Wyoming Whiskey-
sponsored 2014 Bartender
Shootout State Championship
in Laramie.
Tucked away up a set of
stairs and sharing a lobby
with the hip and happen-
ing Pink Garter Theater, The
Rose is a snowballs’ throw
from the famed antler-arched
town square of Jackson. And
whether it’s enjoying a cock-
tail prior to catching the hot-
test band at the Pink Garter,
or a nightcap after a long day
on the mountain, The Rose is
a provocatively pleasant de-
parture from the more tour-
isty taverns in this world-
class ski town. So the next
time you visit “The Hole” slide
into one of its warm booths,
pick your poison, then set
back and prepare to smell, sip
and savor an expertly crafted
cathouse cocktail.
Winter 2015
Shake all ingredients with ice and dou-
ble strain into a highball glass with
ice. Top with club soda and garnish with
rosemary sprig and cinnamon stick.
You don’t need a pumpkin pie in a glass
to call it an autumn drink. This cocktail
incorporates some seasonal spices that
we associate with fall and winter while
remaining refreshingly tart. The rye and
lemon juice shine while the maple syrup,
apple bitters and ginger liqueur provide a
warming balance. At New Holland, we are
unapologetic in saying that we confidently
drink gin, year round. That same principle
applies here. If you enjoy a tall, refreshing,
effervescent cocktail during warm months,
you should feel just as confident drink-
ing that in front of a warm fire with snow
falling outside your windows. With the
right balance and a delicate use of sea-
sonal spice, your winter cocktail just got
surprisingly refreshing.
When it comes to winter,
traditional thinking in regards
to cocktails goes something like
this. They have to be: Sweet. Need
a candy cane garnish. Are a Pump-
kin Spiced Latte-Tini. Need to be served
warm. Egg Nog is the only option. Right?
Wrong.
Recently Adam Dickerson, Mid-
west Spirits Ambassador at New
Holland Artisan Spirits, dispelled some
of the myths associated with winter
libations while sharing a number of
cold weather cocktails that serve well to
remind us the only thing you really need
to create a great winter cocktail are good
spirits and a little imagination.
~
Pinchfist
2 oz New Holland Walleye Rye
1/2 oz Grade A Maple Syrup
1/2 oz Lemon Juice
1/4 oz Domaine de Canton
Pinch of nutmeg
Rosemary leaves
All spice
2 cloves
4 dashes Bar Keep Apple Bitters
Lilly C.K.
2 1/2 oz Knickerbocker Gin
1/2 oz Clockwork Orange
3/4 oz Lillet
5 Dashes of Orange Bitters
Stir all ingredients with ice in a mixing
glass, strain into a martini glass. Zest a
lemon peel over the glass, rim the glass
with the peel and use as garnish.
Recently, I have found myself quite en-
thused with the intricacies of a dry mar-
tini. I am constantly tweaking ratios un-
til I find the perfect recipe for my palette
or the palette of my guests. I have made
it my personal mission to prove to my
friends that they actually do enjoy gin
and a proper martini, they just needed to
discover it first. This recipe is a twist on
what some would consider a dry martini.
Opting for Lillet in the place of Dry Ver-
mouth provides nice citrus notes and the
splash of New Holland’s Clockwork Or-
ange Liqueur further fortifies that pres-
ence. The balance of citrus, spices and
herbs in Knickerbocker Gin are perfect
for this drink.
All together, I think this drink can be a
nice starting point on one’s journey to-
ward the enjoyment of the dry martini.
CRAFTINGCOCKTAILS
Adam DickersonSpirits Ambassador
New Holland Artisan SpiritsNew Holland, Michigan
Winter 2015
MicroShiner.com | PAGE19
The Ice Cap
2 oz New Holland Cask & Smoke
1 oz Ruby Port
1 Large Cold Brew Coffee Iced Cube
Stir Whiskey and Port in ice and strain
into a chilled rocks glass with Coffee
Ice Cube
Simplicity is underrated. Some of the
most delicious cocktails in the world
involve two or three ingredients, and that
is what I tried to capture here. When
making this drink, I envisioned it being
served after a meal, with a warm, choco-
laty dessert but by no means does it need
to be limited to that. Cask & Smoke is a
peated whiskey and it finds such a nice
balance with the sweetness of Port. When
poured over a coffee ice cube, the drink
only improves with time, adding a velvety
mouth-feel and a peppy boost of caffeine
to counter what would have been one
intense food coma.
CRAFTING COCKTAILS
I-70 is whiteout.
Dozens of cars inch along through
unpacked slush. At times during
winter, this serpentine road that
leads to renowned Rocky Moun-
tain powder is near snowbound; it
is the price one must be prepared
to pay should he wish to partake in
some of the country’s finest skiing.
Yet it is a Saturday evening in mid-
November and Vail, the resort
named after the engineer of the road
that became the interstate, is still
another week away from opening.
The Story of the 10th MountainWhiskey & Spirits Company
Words by Matthew Hedgpeth Photography by Janie Viehman
Off the highway, blanketed in snow and
illuminated by lamplight, the moun-
tain town-cum-ski resort of Vail Village
is more or less asleep. A few groups of
young men, decked out in the particular
style of serious riders and skiers, trudge
along the whitened cobblestones. The
soft, muffled sound of clothed laugh-
ter drifts from the mouths of couples
wrapped in vests and caps as they head
toward the bars. More than mere signs
of life, these are microcosmic reminders
that winter is approaching in the valley.
The 10th Mountain Whiskey Tasting
Room, which officially opened in Septem-
ber 2014, is poised to be a vital part of this
setting. Nestled in the southeast corner of
the village, across the street from local
outfitters Gorsuch Ltd., the space is small
and spare of unnecessary decoration. It is
the picture of the modern outdoorsman’s
watering hole: wood flooring and shelving
buffed to a worn sheen, oak barrel tables
and stools, the obligatory Colorado flag.
It is only right, then, that the owners,
Christian Avignon and Ryan Thompson,
both look like they belong here. They are
self-assured, yet comfortably dressed––
laid-back. Even though neither of them
are “natives” (Thompson is from Texas,
Avignon from upstate New York), they’ve
known each other since the late 90’s
when they met, fittingly, on the slopes.
Whether coaxed by the warmth of the
tasting room or by the fact that it be-
longs to them, their happiness is patent.
In their smiles and postures they wear
the confidence of men in their element.
After speaking with them, it is clear that
the notion of feeling at home has had a
profound impact on their interests. The
way they talk about their company––as of
a child with promise––is borne on the back
of a palpable philosophy, their sober vision
of an almost utopian lifestyle on the moun-
tainside, one bettered by the flow of spirits.
As is the case with many of history’s great
ventures, the seed of the 10th Mountain
distillery was planted late one fateful
night. In a way spirits begat spirits as,
cocktails in hand, Avignon and Thompson
sat down looking for the answer to one
question: what does Vail need? Recalling
the circumstance, Avignon said, “We felt
[The Vail Valley] seemed stagnant in terms
of its business demographic. Not to take
away from anybody, it just hasn’t really
evolved” [in the same way that Denver,
with its distinct neighborhoods and wealth
of new businesses, for example, has]. “And
we don’t have that quantity of people here,
but we certainly have interesting people
from all over the world, so why can’t we do
that? We thought, well, we love all these
spirits…maybe there’s a market for some-
thing really defined in the spirits world.”
Avignon and Thompson then conducted
some preliminary research and attended
Moonshine University in Louisville, Ken-
tucky to learn more about the indus-
try and make connections with some of
the powerhouse figures in the whiskey
trade. This was the missing piece to the
puzzle of how to take their entrepre-
neurial will (Avignon owns and runs a
masonry business; Thompson is a res-
taurateur) to the next level and produce
original liquor recipes for the people of Vail.
Finally, when time came to pick a name
for their company, Avignon and Thomp-
son were sure they wanted it to be some-
how related to the mountain culture that
had brought them to Vail in the first
place. They settled on a meaningful trib-
ute, one that anyone who has ever felt a
tug of affection for the winter lifestyle can
appreciate––whether he knows it or not.
~
Twenty miles away from the Village lay
the remains of Camp Hale. It was here
that the inaugural soldiers of what would
PAGE30 | MicroShiner.com
become the 10th Mountain Division,
the first specialized American military
unit of its kind, went to commence long-
term winter combat training in 1942.
In The Last Ridge, McKay Jenkins de-
scribes the long progression of events
that gave rise to America’s mountain
troops and the designation of Camp Hale
as their training base. Initially a sort of
pet project promoted by Charles “Min-
nie” Dole, the man who helped organize
the National Ski Patrol System, it took
some convincing to get the War Depart-
ment to approve the new unit. Ultimately
Dole got what he wanted and the National
Ski Patrol was the first civilian agency put
in charge of recruiting American soldiers.
Over the ensuing months and years,
Camp Hale, positioned as it was in some
of America’s most beautiful and forbid-
ding landscape, became a hotbed for com-
bat-conscious technical mountaineering
and logistical preparation. The soldiers
in the 10th were tasked with figuring out
the best means of survival in low tempera-
ture, high altitude environments; this re-
quired testing state-of-the-art equipment.
Of their own accord, these men dutifully
explored the vast Coloradan wilderness
and meanwhile formed the crucial bonds
that help make bearable the trials of war.
Thanks to Dole’s aggressive cherry pick-
ing of talent from New England ski schools
and colleges, a number of the growing Di-
vision’s ranks came from the Northeast.
Fred Vetter, Avignon’s grandfather, was
familiar with some of the men who had
joined up from the nearby Glens Falls area
in upstate New York where he was raised.
Vetter enlisted as a medic and was part of
the front line offensive that culminated in
a series of key battles near the Apennines
Mountains (southeast of Florence, Italy)
during the winter and spring of 1945.
Italy’s ultimate fall to the Allies impinged
on dissolving the German divisions that
were holding the fertile terrain of the
Po River Valley, gateway to the Alps.
Said Avignon, “I actually returned in
’91 with my grandparents and my dad.
We toured that area of central Italy and
stayed in a lot of the hill town villages
that [the 10th] liberated. We were there
for about four to five weeks. It was a
real eye-opener as a teenager to be ex-
posed to veterans like that first-hand.
My grandfather was very emotional
that whole time––all those guys [were].”
If the veterans embraced a somber mood
in order to reflect on their brothers-in-
arms who never made it home, the trip
was also a cause for celebration. Avignon
continued, “I think what that trip really
taught me...these guys were just hard-
nosed, hard working…[but they also]
loved to drink. I mean, they drank more
grappa and wine on that trip to Italy than
I’ve ever seen. They would get their hikes
in, they would get their work done, and
then they would have some cocktails.
That’s how they lived,” said Avignon.
It is perhaps this well-balanced work
ethic and, in the words of Jenkins, “their
sense of a shared identity beyond that of
soldiers” that set apart the original men of
the 10th. And yet, by the time the Division
had finally been deployed at the tail end
of 1944, the war was in its last phase. Not
surprisingly, the Allied success through-
out the rest of the European Theater over-
shadowed the mountain troops’ relatively
minor achievements (only in the scope of
the war––their tactical maneuvers on Riva
Ridge in the Apennines were theretofore
unprecedented, which is in part why the
mountain troops were so immediately
successful in completing their objectives).
Plans for the 10th to initiate a full-scale
invasion of mainland Japan were aban-
doned after the horrific revelation of
Winter 2015
atomic warfare in Hiroshima and Nagasa-
ki effectively put an end to war in the Pa-
cific. Thus, with the war coming to a close
and no battles left to fight, the men of the
10th had to look forward to peacetime en-
deavors, and to building a better future.
To more than a few this meant put-
ting their training to further use. Some
founded businesses with an emphasis
on outdoor lifestyle---Nike and NOLS are
two of them---while others, like Freidl
Pfeifer, raised funds to introduce large-
scale recreational skiing to the American
public. This, perhaps, is the true legacy
of the 10th Mountain Division. In to-
tal, 62 North American ski resorts were
either founded, managed, or had their
ski schools directed by members of the
10th. So, while the Division was able to
secure its piece of militaristic notori-
ety at the end of the Second World War,
more lastingly, the men who comprised
its ranks would influence the shape of
every North American winter to come.
~
While it is clear that the 10th Moun-
tain Division deserves recognition, the
fact that it is still an active military unit
(the Division was deactivated at the end
of WWII, reformed for training purposes
from 1948-1958, and then formally re-
organized in 1985) thankfully never gave
Avignon or Thompson much pause. Rath-
er, the few living WWII veterans from the
10th that Avignon and Thompson have
been able to contact directly––or tangen-
tially, through their products-––have wel-
comed the namesake tribute. The pair
has also received positive support from
the Division’s current soldiers and vet-
erans. Many of these active or recently
decommissioned soldiers discovered the
distillery by accident, stumbling upon the
Kickstarter campaign that provided the
last big push in realizing the duo’s dream.
One of those veterans is former platoon
sergeant, Sergeant First Class (retired)
Steven Lycopolus, who needed an ap-
propriate rocks glass for a toast he had
to make for the 10-year reunion of his
platoon from the 2/87 Infantry Battal-
ion. The 2/87, a dispatch of the 10th,
comprises a group of men who deployed
to Afghanistan in support of Operation
Enduring Freedom in August of 2003
and returned in June of 2004. The group
“eventually became known as ‘Fight-
ing First’ – a nickname that stuck and
endures to this day,” said Lycopolus.
Though he can only speak for this small
band of brothers, Lycopolus is “honored
that [Avignon and Thompson] used the
division name.” He continued, “Veter-
ans can be very protective of their former
units and lineage. We have a connection
with them that is hard to describe to the
uninitiated. Finding out that [Avignon’s]
grandfather was a member of the 10th
Mountain Division in WWII dispelled any
concerns about crass commercialism –
he and [Thompson] have done it right.”
The pair has therefore enjoyed multiple
opportunities to do their part in honor-
ing the dedicated servicemen of the 10th
Mountain Division, foisting bottles and
gear, along with their appreciation, on the
handful of veterans that have reached out
to them. So while the mountain troops
have provided Avignon and Thompson
with a name upon which they will be
building a brand, it is ultimately a two-
way street. Thompson also noted that
some portion of their revenue would be
used to support active duty troops and
veterans: in-kind donations to the 10th
Foundation, Vail Veterans Program, and
Wounded Warrior Project are ongoing.
Currently the 10th Mountain Whiskey &
Spirit Company’s lineup consists of their
PAGE40 | MicroShiner.com
^ ABOVE
Christian Avignon & Ryan Thompson stand beside their Vendome copper still at the 10th Mountain production facility in Gypsum, CO
Winter 2015
flagship Bourbon ($57.99), Rye Whis-
key ($44.99), Moonshine ($24.99), Vod-
ka ($33.99), and the Alpenglow Cordial
($39.99). Avignon and Thompson are also
invested in expanding the flavor profiles
of these spirits by creating barrel-aged
cocktails. Their first foray into this grow-
ing practice is the Seibert Sipper (after
Pete Seibert, Vail Resort’s founder and
another veteran from the 10th Mountain
Division). The cocktail pairs the bour-
bon with sweet vermouth and Aperol,
an Italian aperitif, resulting in a light
and dangerously smooth concoction.
The pair agrees that clever branding like
this is meant, in large part, to capture the
essence of mountain culture, the everlast-
ing ethos of the 10th. Committed as they
are to the Division, Avignon and Thomp-
son have coined appropriate slogans for
their different spirits. The Rye, for which
a close friend wrote a special toast, is a
“Whiskey Worth Fighting For.” Both it
and the Vodka bottle feature the silhou-
ette of Riva Ridge, a battle that, accord-
ing to Jenkins, “like the mountain troops
themselves, accrued a mythical status.”
As for the Bourbon, it is decorated with a
Ranger ribbon and boldly declares a de-
scriptor which Avignon and Thompson
consider an expression of their overall
philosophy: Mountain Strong. Similar to
the Rye, the side of the bottle also in-
cludes a toast, 10th Mountain Bourbon
embodies the same characteristics of the
10th Mountain soldiers: confident yet
humble, adventurous yet grounded, bold
yet modest. To the soldiers and all that
enjoy the mountain lifestyle, we salute!
As of this writing, Avignon and Thomp-
son have introduced their product to 10
liquor stores and over 20 restaurants
throughout the state. They are also mov-
ing forward with the construction of a
second, larger tasting area at the pro-
duction facility in Gypsum, which was
meant to open concurrently with the
Tasting Room until they decided the ex-
posure at Vail Village was more impor-
tant. Hopefully the snowfall will be gen-
erous and make for a busy ski season,
so they will have plenty of thirsty moun-
taineers with whom they can share liba-
tions and regal with stories of their own.
How better to end a satisfying day on
the slopes––a stiff drink and good con-
versation does the mind and body
good. After all, a drink from the 10th
Mountain Whiskey and Spirits Com-
pany is more than a simple nightcap.
It is a drink to glory.
PAGE42 | MicroShiner.com
Tucked away within a quiet industrial
park in suburban Illinois, a silent giant
of elegance and design flourishes: enter
the bottle decorating wonderland of Log-
gerhead Deco. The company headquar-
ters, adorned with countless awards and
examples of its artistic prowess, houses
both its production warehouse and its
business operations. At the helm resides
Steve Gilbertson, a man who carries him-
self with a distinct air of friendliness, and
sports a goatee that defines a man who
knows exactly where his vision is heading.
He is surprisingly calm and collected,
despite working seven days a week to
prepare for the looming holiday season,
and the lines at the corners of his eyes
betray how frequently he smiles. It’s a
welcome sight. As the former CEO and
salesman of Kammann Machine Com-
pany, Gilbertson realized something that
spoke to him above all of the other buzz
surrounding the world-class spirits he
worked with: decorating the bottles they
came in was not a sustainable practice.
He set out several years ago to correct
this, and has since experienced a rapid
rise to the top of the industry. When
asked to break down the mythos behind
his company, he sits back and exhales.
“It’s a long answer,” he replies succinctly.
The vision of Loggerhead is to provide pro-
ducers of craft beverages with a distinct
visual edge that will allow their products
to compete with major brands on store
shelves. Beyond that, it is to continue
refining an organic, sustainable approach
to decorating glass bottles. Founded
in 2010 with a single printing press,
Words by rob durkee PhotograPhy by david turner
T h i n k i n g O u T s i d e T h e B O T T l e
The Green World of loGGerhead deco
PAGE48 | MicroShiner.com
Loggerhead manufactures world-class
designs for customers in all fifty states,
as well as eleven countries, and has
since expanded to ten presses. The fo-
cus is primarily on craft spirits, but its
product base includes several wines, ol-
ive oils, and vinegars, among various
other bottled goods. It is a counterpart
to a booming “craft culture”; more and
more, people lean towards independent
craft beverages, and Loggerhead’s bot-
tles and designs are a masterful depic-
tion of craft all their own. It starts with
the company’s approach to its process.
The process begins with a phone call, e-
mail, or the time-honored tradition of
word-of-mouth. Most of Loggerhead’s
customers have some idea of what they
want, but they simply don’t know what is
possible to get them there. Design ideas
start with the spirit itself; whiskey typical-
ly comes in a bottle with different proper-
ties than vodka, and bourbon bottles won’t
look much like rum. From there, further
thought is put into what the bottle shape
will be, resulting in a design’s parameters.
The last step is to determine how it will
be packaged, and Loggerhead comes pre-
pared with a “one-stop shop” approach
that includes package design. When
asked how these decisions are made, and
what sets Loggerhead apart from a tradi-
tional decorator, Gilbertson nails his point
of view to the wall: “It’s largely personal
preference, but it comes down to image. If
a customer sees a premium bottle on the
shelf, it’s pretty safe to assume that what-
ever is inside will taste premium. We’re
here to make sure that you don’t take
polka dots and put them on a Jaguar.”
When a design has come to fruition, it
heads to art direction. Loggerhead has
its own internal design firm that fully de-
velops ideas and fits them within the real
estate available on bottles. Effects can
be added to give bottles a look and feel
very similar to top brands; the edge Log-
gerhead has here, however, is that it will
produce specialty bottles at much lower
quantities than the bigger brands, mak-
ing it a more attractive option in terms
of pricing. Proofs of the final artwork
are sent out, which may yield changes to
bottle design, and a final, physical proof
is then delivered for customers to begin
planning with. Including the gathering
of necessary materials, and securing gov-
ernment approval, this stage of the pro-
cess can take anywhere from a month
to several years. When all the pieces
are finally in place, production begins.
Loggerhead is very transparent with ev-
erything it does. Its aim is to be as “green”
as possible in all facets of production,
from digital correspondence, to the cur-
ing of inks with UV light, right down to
the electric forklift used in the warehouse.
The fundamental idea behind printing di-
rectly to glass is that it does away with
paper labels that contain harmful carcin-
ogens in their adhesives. All inks used
are lead-, cadmium-, and VOC (Volatile
Organic Compound)-free, as well. Logger-
head found its footing in product testing
with leading brands such as Coca-Cola,
Modelo, and Bacardi, which went a long
way in solidifying its effectiveness. The
large budgets and angles of quality con-
trol available were essential in establish-
ing a standard that would undeniably
succeed in the younger craft market.
Glass bottles are first spray coated, de-
signs are then printed on, and the inks
cured with UV lights. Utilizing his expe-
rience gained at Kammann, Gilbertson
has acquired key pieces of machinery
that not only reduce the amount of space
needed to accomplish the process, but
also the company’s overall carbon foot-
print. Ten printing presses, affectionate-
ly named after grandmothers within the
business, bear the brunt of the workload.
PAGE52 | MicroShiner.com
A slumbering behemoth known as the
Kammann K15 CNC resides in the back of
Loggerhead’s warehouse; this $1.5 million
machine is the “mother brain” of the op-
eration, with six available colors and the
ability to print onto 4,500 bottles per hour.
One of two byproducts generated by these
machines is heat, which is cycled through
a chiller before being released outside at
an environmentally conscious 70 degrees
Fahrenheit. The other is ozone, which is
technically doing the planet a favor on a
daily basis. When printing and curing is
complete, bottles are ready to be pack-
aged into custom-designed cartons and
shipped to wherever they will be filled.
Gilbertson takes great pride in Logger-
head’s process, not only from the produc-
tion side of things, but from a storytell-
ing standpoint, as well. A critical aspect
of craft spirits is the story behind each,
and Loggerhead places this idea at the
forefront of everything it does. Gilbertson
grabs a bottle from a nearby display, and
reads. “Akvavit. Originally from northern
Scandinavia, it’s all about the journey the
barrels take.” A humble origin, but it’s
what he says next that rests at the heart
of craft culture. “So, what makes craft so
interesting? Well, this is the story. People
sit around with this bottle, they read it,
and they talk about it. They read about
ships carrying barrels across the equator.
They talk about the journey, the captain.
They talk about the story.” Between the
spirits within and the gorgeous designs
without, Loggerhead is paving the way for
craft companies, while making a point to
help display what consumers are paying
for when they purchase craft products.
As a family-oriented endeavor, managed
by Gilbertson and wife Cindi, Loggerhead
takes the utmost pride in its personal flair
when working with customers and their
ideas. Although it boasts a broad and
diverse roster, projects are usually small-
er in scale, sometimes to a point where
Gilbertson is able to visit a customer for
dinner or drinks at a local bar. As such,
the emphasis is on clearly communicat-
ing what is possible for any design, and
maintaining that communication every
step of the way. To take the rapport even
further, Loggerhead advises customers on
government regulations, educating them
about warnings while tastefully incorpo-
rating them into designs. When an idea
is complete and comes to rest on store
shelves, the destination of a consumer’s
well-spent dime is evident in the artistry.
Gilbertson is working to strike a perfect
balance between regional, national and
international clients, all supported by
the bedrock of possibility. “As the busi-
ness grows, it grows with the industry.
We’re always adding capacities, adding
capabilities, and showing people what’s
possible with their product,” Gilbert-
son states. With a strong social media
presence and frequent website traffic,
Loggerhead is making waves in the
craft scene, and encourages cus-
tomers and consumers alike to ex-
plore options and ask questions re-
lated to their vision and process.
Going forward, Gilbertson pushes the
business to lead and innovate. He is very
aware that there are not many options
available when looking to do what Logger-
head does, and he aims to set the bar ever
higher with each design. Keeping the com-
pany’s operations sized right and allowing
customers to buy smaller quantities has
been crucial in generating interest, as has
a surge in consumption of craft beverages
around the country. This has resulted in
drastically reduced manufacturing and li-
quor license costs, which have prompted
independent breweries and distilleries to
pop up in droves. They all seek bottles and
designs to capture their essence, and the
light leading their way is Loggerhead Deco.
PAGE58 | MicroShiner.com
In 2015, Gilbertson intends to shift his
focus to other markets, and has plans to
expand design capabilities. He points to
the wall behind him, at a “planogram”, or
a visual merchandise organizer for Florida
Wal-Marts. It prominently displays a cus-
tomer’s bottle, nestled on a shelf between
industry leaders Cîroc and Grey Goose.
“Our logo and mission statement are
on the back of that bottle. Someone’s
going to pick it up, and they’re go-
ing to read it and find out what’s pos-
sible,” he says, filling in his smile lines.
Loggerhead Deco can be found
online at www.loggerheaddeco.com,
on Facebook at Loggerhead Deco, Inc.,
and on Twitter at @loggerheaddeco
Winter 2015
In Vermont, a state that is shyly self-
righteous about its quality craft tradition,
you’d expect this debate to be fiercely
contentious. Although passions are deep
and varied, the conversation is, in fact, re-
freshingly polite.
The plethora of organizations propping up
around the country in an attempt to stan-
dardize craft jargon and practices only
muddle the conversation. The American
Craft Spirits Association limits it’s vot-
ing members to those producing less than
750,000 proof-barrels per year, while the
Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. re-
quires fewer than 40,000 nine-liter cases
per year to qualify for membership. Craft,
however, surely consists of more than
sheer batch size. It connotes the image of
Freedom & Unity:Exploring Vermont’s Craft Spirit
Words and photographs by Alex H. Dowley
Vermont is full of crafts, and crafty peo-
ple. They are a source of pride and com-
munity, or vice versa. Either way, people
in Vermont learn to make their own way,
and produce some world-class crafts in
the process; Cabot Cheese, Citizen Cider,
Copeland Furniture, Simon Pierce glass-
ware, Alchemist Brewery, and Darn Tough
Vermont socks are just a few examples of
the state’s diverse craft manufacturers.
There’s no surprise, then, that the craft
spirit movement is alive and well in the
Green Mountains, and growing. The num-
ber of licensed distillers in the state has
increased 500 percent in the last decade,
with similar growth-rates nationally. But
in this burgeoning market, with new dis-
tillers and new methods of distilling enter-
ing the business, it’s increasingly difficult
to distinguish what “craft” means.
a master carpenter, and possibly an ap-
prentice, toiling in their labors over the
quality of their product. You don’t expect
a carpenter to raise and fell the trees for
his work. In distilling, however, craft also
infers the use of local and often organic
ingredients, and an experimental nature
in some of the products. The American
Distilling Institute limits annual sales to
52,000 cases “where the product is physi-
cally distilled and bottled on-site.”
The diverse—and in some cases, truly
unique—liquors the state of Vermont pro-
duces challenge linguistic conventions of
category and semantics. Elm Brook Farm,
for example, in East Fairfield, produces
Rail Dog, a maple li-
quor distilled from
100 percent maple
sap, tapped from
the farm’s maple
trees, then aged in
a charred American
Oak cask. It’s not
quite vodka, whis-
key, rum or gin,
and definitely not
liqueur; it’s called maple spirit. Caledo-
nia Spirits in Hardwick makes a barrel
aged gin with honey. Smuggler’s Notch,
in Jeffersonville, makes a hopped gin.
Each of these distilleries is exploring
the limits of the grain and palette, with
remarkable success.
The quality of these products isn’t in
question. On the contrary, Vermont dis-
tillers make some of the best spirits in
the world. WhistlePig Farm, for example,
received Wine Enthusiast’s highest ever
award for a rye whiskey, which is bottled
in Shoreham, VT. The rye whiskey, how-
ever, is distilled in Canada, imported to
Shoreham, mixed with magic sauce, then
bottled and sold as Vermont whiskey. But
is it? Comparisons are odious, but false
advertising derelict.
Templeton Rye, an Iowa-based whiskey
company that markets its “prohibition-
era recipe,” currently faces three lawsuits
alleging it deceived customers by not in-
dicating on its label that it was sourced
from a distilling plant in Indiana. The
prohibition-era recipe, it turns out, isn’t
actually a rye whiskey, either, so the dis-
tiller added other flavors to mimic the
original taste. Because the ingredients,
engineered in Kentucky, are mixed in its
facility in Templeton, Iowa, Templeton
defenders declare it a local product. The
magic happens in Templeton, apparently.
Ron Elliot of Smuggler’s Notch Distillery,
another renowned producer in Vermont,
agrees. It’s less ex-
pensive than buying
all of the equipment
and storage space.
“The distillation pro-
cess is the easiest
process,” he told a
Burlington newspa-
per. “You take mash
and you distill it to
produce liquid. What
do you do with it then? What do you blend
it with? How do you treat it? What does
it touch? How is it aged? That’s all the
craft piece of it.” Elliot openly acknowl-
edges that his gold medal award winning,
2010 Wine Enthusiast’s 12th Best Vodka
in the World, is distilled in Idaho, where
his grain is grown. The label on the bot-
tle, however, gives no indication that any
part of the production process occurred
outside of the state. A tagline below a
scenic landscape silhouette of its name-
sake, Smuggler’s Notch, a valley between
rugged mountains that bootleggers used
to smuggle moonshine from Canada dur-
ing prohibition, and the site of a popular
family ski resort, also of the same name,
reads: Vermont’s Mountain Spirit. Surely
it contains some Idaho spirit as well.
THE COMMUNITY WILL CHANGE SIGNIFICANTLY
FROM OUR PRESENCE
PAGE70 | MicroShiner.com
And that’s not necessarily a bad thing,
says Ryan Christiansen, head distiller
and production manager at Caledonia
Spirits distillery. Distillers can approach
the business with many different strate-
gies. “The only thing that people agree
on,” among Vermont distillers, “is that
there needs to be truth in labeling.”
Alcohol is typically classified by, among
other things, its terroir. Scotch is from
Scotland, Bordeaux from the Bordeaux
province of France, Champagne from
Champagne, Irish whiskey from Ireland,
Bourbon from America, Tennessee Whis-
key from, yes, Tennessee, each with dis-
tinct characteristics and flavors. Blend-
ed whiskey is labeled such. How does a
geographic hybrid spirit compare? What
should it be called?
Located in Hardwick, VT, Caledonia Spir-
its originated as a honeybee farm, evolved
into a winery, and currently operates
as a distillery, one that takes craft seri-
ously. “Hardwick, Caledonia Country,” its
website reads, “is a community inspired
by farms where the production of milk,
cheese, timber, grains, honey, seeds, and
herbs are part of our lives and help define
our place.” Christiansen, the head distill-
er, uses local grains and materials when-
ever possible. A drop of honey is added
before bottling its Barr Hill Gin, opening
up complex new aromas and unique fla-
vors that change with the seasons. Tom
Cat, what is essentially gin, barrel aged
for four to six months in a charred Ameri-
can White Oak barrel, is possibly the only
of its kind. Caledonia’s Barr Hill Vodka is
distilled exclusively from the farm’s fer-
mented honey, which, when distilled, “re-
flects the soil and flowers visited by the
bees.” You can follow the bees’ activities
on Caledonia’s “Live from the Hive” blog,
if so inclined.
But it’s not just about terrior for Chris-
tensen. The craft spirit is also about
building community networks and sup-
porting local commerce. We hope that “the
community will change significantly from
our presence,” he said. Because of its rel-
ative early success, Caledonia can have
a stronger impact on local businesses.
“If a farmer isn’t growing what we need,
probably because he tried it in the past,
unsuccessfully, we can now give them a
deposit for planting next season’s crops,
so the farmer doesn’t have to assume all
of the risk, and we can get the local prod-
ucts we need.” Businesses begin to shape
their business models off of the indus-
tries thriving around them. Of particular
interest to Christensen is access to local
barley. Barley, he points out, needs to be
malted before distilled, which requires its
own special craft. Christiansen notes the
introduction of a few malters that recently
began operations in Vermont, in response
to growing craft beer and spirit industry
demands. “It’s a game of patience,” he
said, “but in a few years we should have
the infrastructure streamlined.”
Vermont is not a good place for busi-
nesses looking to apply a plug-and-play
business model, Christensen said. That’s
not what people around here want. Ver-
mont is a good place for businesses “look-
ing for local welders, local farmers, and
community Christmas parties.”
A good spirit is a good spirit, whether
“craft” or not, and regardless of how its
defined. But some care about more than
taste, or savor the story of the spirit be-
hind the taste, and what it represents. We
taste with our senses, but also with our
imagination. There’s a valid distinction
between a community oriented, locally
sourced, environmentally sustainable dis-
tillery, and a spirit culled together from a
variety of sources and locations. It’s not
that one is better than the other; they
simply represent different philosophies.
One of a product, the other of a process,
purpose, and place.
PAGE74 | MicroShiner.com
Pairings:
Words by KAREN CLAYTONPhotography by ANDY SHELTER
CALEDONIA SPIRITS IN SALT AIRa Rehoboth Beach picnic
Winter 2015
On the evening of December 11th, Todd
Hardie, owner & master distiller of Cale-
donia Spirits in Hardwick, Vermont, made
a 14 hour trek through a foot and a half of
snow to share with an intimate group of 30
folks the story of his hand crafted spirits.
Todd is deeply connected with the land,
his crops of elderberry, corn, barley and
rye and his honey bees, in much the
same way that David Lynch, general
manager of Salt Air, is to the dishes he
prepares for local epicures at one of Re-
hoboth Beach’s premier restaurants.
The pairing of the two put their art-
istry and skill on display, resulting in a
beautiful marriage of food and spirit.
Executive Chef Matt Kern and Pastry Chef
Maggie Cellitto built a menu to compli-
ment each of Todd’s hand crafted spir-
its while incorporating each spirit into
every course! Every bite was delectable,
but Matt’s House Cured Beet and Hibis-
cus Salmon with Dill Creme Fraiche and
Paddlefish Roe drove home just how lucky
we were to have a seat at this dinner.
David concocted unique and whimsical
cocktails that accompanied each course,
ranging from a Green Mountain Kir Royale
using Todd’s prized Elderberry Cordial, to
The Bear Cat that featured Caledonia Tom
Cat, a barrel aged gin, Creme de Cacoa,
fresh cream and a dusting of nutmeg.
The Bear Cat was a perfect accompani-
ment to Maggie’s rendition of a decon-
structed fruit cake. She used Todd’s barrel
aged spirit to macerate dried winter fruits,
as well as in the caramel sauce she used
to write “Tom” across our plates. With
each forkful of Date Nut Cake, Tom Cat
Caramel Sauce and Homemade Honey Ice
Cream (made from Todd’s wildflower hon-
ey), we thought, “Surely, this is heaven!”
The evening was capped with a gener-
ous gift to each guest from Todd: a 1lb
jar of his highly sought after Wildflow-
er Honey and an invitation to visit his
farm and meet the rest of the family!
If you are seeking a true example of an
all-American, hand crafted, artisan spirit,
Caledonia Spirits is certainly a great place
to start, and a table at Salt Air a worthy
alternative to a Delaware beach picnic.
PAGE80 | MicroShiner.com
FIRST COURSE
Stilton Frittermolasses and black grapeVermont Cheesesthe fixins’
PAGE82 | MicroShiner.com
The Green Mountain Kir RoyaleCharles de fere Brut.25 oz of Caledonia Elderberry CordialServe in a champagne flute
Winter 2015
SECOND COURSE
Beet and Hibiscus Cured Salmonsweet potato blini, dill crème fraiche, paddlefish roe, grapefruit twist
PAGE84 | MicroShiner.com
The Monarch1.5 oz Barr Hill Gin.75 oz Giffard Creme de Pamplemousse .5 oz Cynar.5 oz limeShake and serve in a highball topped with soda and a grapefruit twist
Winter 2015
THIRD COURSE
Coriander Crusted Scallopcucumber, yogurt, crispy parsnip, tarragon emulsion
PAGE86 | MicroShiner.com
Vermont Vesper2 oz. Barr Hill Gin1 oz. Barr Hill Vodka.5 oz. Cocchi Americano,stir with cracked ice and serve up with an orange twist
Winter 2015
DESSERT COURSE
Take-A-Part Fruitcakedate nut cake, spiced tom cat caramel, honey ice cream, tom cat macerated winter fruit
PAGE88 | MicroShiner.com
The Bear Cat1.5 oz Tom Cat Barrel Aged Gin.75 oz White Crème de Cacao.75 oz creamshake vigorously and serve up with a dusting of nutmeg
Winter 2015
Personal Gear
For us here at MicroShiner, craft is about more than just spirits and cock-tails. Its about creating a culture built upon connecting people with produc-ers who share similar philosophies and goals. Whether someone is looking for a bespoke product to express their per-sonal taste and identity, a local or more sustainable alternative to the big name brands, or simply the best example of an item that money can buy, today’s craft manufacturers have it covered.
Winter gear is no exception, and for this issue we have curated a number of items from custom and independent brands that are sure to appeal to the craft-oriented whiskey & winter sports enthusiast.
^
Great American Flask$250 MSRPwww.bexargoods.com
>
Marhar Archaic snowboard$459.95 MSRPwww.marharsnowboards.com
PAGE92 | MicroShiner.com
<
Kartel 106 ski$679 MSRPwww.on3pskis.com
>
Jeffrey 114 ski$729 MSRP
www.on3pskis.com
Khaki Kamper jacket$339 MSRPwww.nwt3k.com
V
Autumn 2013
MountainMoonshineWords by Drew de la Rosa Photography by Jeremy Jensen
The Sierra Nevada mountain range is of-
ten overlooked when the somewhat ob-
scure topic of mountain ranges is dis-
cussed. It isn’t revered for the romance
of yodelers and edelweiss like the Alps,
lacks the famous Sherpa dominated
peaks of the Himalayas, and no longer has
the reputation as playground of the rich
and famous that the Rockies now enjoy.
In fact, the Sierra’s prominence has only
arisen in history a couple of times. Once
when the treacherous weather forced
weary travelers to supposedly succumb
to hunger in the ultimate way. A second
time a few years later when gold was
found in Sutter Creek. And most recently
when mobsters ran South Lake Tahoe as
depicted in Mario Puzo’s classic story.
ing any kind of oil product directly to the
ground is extremely detrimental to the
environment, and runoff to the sea cata-
strophic to marine life. After riding home
on his motorcycle one night, Jeff realized
his bike, shoes, and pants were all coat-
ed in a sticky residue, presumably from
the tar they were using on the dirt roads.
Upon further inspection, though, he saw
that the substance was actually molas-
ses, and more molasses was discovered in
the repurposed drums.
Sugar cane is one of the major agricul-
tural products in Costa Rica. From it is
derived various forms of sugar such as
the molasses used on the roads and a
granulated product called Sucanat. Back
in Ukiah, Jeff had been making fuel etha-
nol from cattails growing in black water
reed beds. In Costa Rica, he continued
this hobby after discovering the immense
availability of Sucanat. His fuel operation
went well, powering many small motors
on ethanol, but the industry was moving
toward a purity obsession, rather than
the original goals of sustainable energy. It
became popular to add benzene to extract
the remaining water from the distillate,
but benzene is carcinogenic and not very
fun to play with.
So, Jeff did what any other person would
do in this situation and just drank
his fuel.
Sucanat turned out to make a very high
quality product, so much so that Jeff still
uses it as the base of many of his spir-
its, still imported from Costa Rica, and
organic. It is one of the few ingredients
not locally sourced, but the practice still
aligns with his deeply rooted grassroots
philosophy. The only mass produced corn
neutral grain spirits you will find at the
Tahoe operation are used for prototyping
flavors and topping off smaller yields.
But for those who live in the shadow of
these ancient monoliths, jutting toward
the sky and dividing two states glamor-
ized in their own way, the Sierras are still
very relevant. Aside from this year, the
Sierras provide California with the bulk
of their water. Conversely, they create a
rain shadow in Nevada that leads to the
Great Basin’s famed arid climate. A winter
crossing is a rite of passage for all new
drivers and makes the reward of a snow
filled weekend that much sweeter. Resi-
dency is usually reserved for the wealthy
or the fiercely independent. Tahoe Moon-
shine owner and founder Jeff VanHee
could be described as the latter.
Not independent in a doomsday prepper,
I-have-a-bunker-in-my-back-yard-filled-
with-30-years-of-canned-beans kind of
way. More in a free spirit fashion. Pun not
really intended.
Jeff has been living in Tahoe since 1990.
Originally from Oregon, surfing took
him down the West Coast, and recent-
ly through Mendocino County and into
Santa Cruz. Mendocino is famous for its
cannabis industry, but many don’t real-
ize that it isn’t just about the weed. The
whole area has a very progressive culture
promoting holistic liberty. Jeff studied al-
ternative building in Ukiah through the
Solar Living Institute and eventually took
these skills to Costa Rica where he worked
as a contractor to feed his surfing habit.
You could call Costa Rica the birthplace
of Tahoe Moonshine. A good portion of the
roads down there are unpaved dirt, and
dust control during the dry season is a
real problem. So the government would
coat the dirt roads to stave the erosion.
Jeff saw 55 gallon drums labeled by a
petroleum company near one of the road
work areas and became immediately con-
scious of its proximity to the ocean. Add-
PAGE98 | MicroShiner.com
Owner and distiller
Jeff Van Hees holds up a bottle
of his Tahoe Moonshine
It was poetry
simple in structure l ike a haiku
basIc
PAGE102 | MicroShiner.com
It took me a while to find the distillery.
My Sonoma County predisposition had
me looking for a gaudy mansion or some
elaborate wine caves. Instead, in the cen-
ter of a tiny industrial complex, I found an
unassuming corrugated steel warehouse
split into two units, Tahoe Moonshine oc-
cupying one of them. It wasn’t really la-
beled and the only hint as to what was
happening inside was the standup paddle
board sitting outside. I had never met Jeff
before this, never spoke to him aside from
a few scheduling emails, and didn’t know
anything about him. I was a bit surprised
when my knock at the door was answered
by a smiling long-haired man who ap-
peared to be in his late thirties, followed
by a massive malamute that looked more
like a furry barrel than a dog. Boulder,
the perfect name. I don’t know what I was
expecting, perhaps Jonathan Goldsmith
as the Most Interesting Man in the World,
but not the embodiment of Santa Cruz.
Soon it became clear, however, that re-
gardless of his looks, Jeff was a man with
a plan, forged in hard work and determi-
nation. The epitome of Zen balance be-
tween a dedicated servant to the task at
hand, and a guy that just wants to chill-
ax with his buddies. This vibe resonated
throughout the small distillery, the first
room being home to a no-nonsense desk
and work area, as well as a collection of
comfy couches and ottomans on which
Boulder promptly plopped after receiving
sufficient attention from their new guest.
Also another paddle board. The next room
was a combination cleanup station and,
uh, sampling center.
The first two rooms ran the depth of the
building at half width. The other half was
completely taken up by the main produc-
tion area, a room dominated by dozens
of fermentation vessels, oak aging casks,
and a secured bonded area, about 2,000
gallons total. A sketchy metal ladder led
to a multipurpose loft, home to miscel-
laneous storage and the potential energy
gravity provides for moving fluids around.
Even though this area was strictly busi-
ness, Wu Tang Clan resonated from large
speakers in the room. I was told ska and
reggae make regular appearances, too.
Off in the corner of the main room sat the
cornerstone of the operation: a beautiful,
120 gallon, full copper still, custom made
for Tahoe Moonshine from Jeff’s own de-
signs. This functional work of art stood
about eight feet tall on a raised platform,
everything around it clear for efficient
work and proper safety. The build is sim-
ple. Amazingly so. Distillation isn’t a ter-
ribly complex concept, but his isn’t much
different than other homemade stills I
have seen. Obviously it had much better
fit and finish, but it goes to show that the
tools do not make the craftsperson. It had
a main chamber made of copper sheet,
and a removable top attached to a marble-
packed reflux column. Sitting not too far
away is another custom pot attachment.
The whole thing was heated by four basic
heating elements. It was like poetry, ba-
sic, simple in structure, like a haiku.
Jeff and his team, copiloted by longtime
friend and super cool dude, Seth Hall,
started with five products: light and dark
Sucanat rums, GMO-free corn Stormin’
Whiskey, Snowflake Vodka and a gin,
both made from local honey out of Placer-
ville, CA. The Stormin’ is barrel aged for
one year in French oak barrels in house.
Production started in 2010, but in 2011,
they found distribution on a much grand-
er scale, first Epic Distributing, and then
the big time with Southern Wine and Spir-
its. Today they enjoy a presence in retail-
ers all across California and Nevada such
as bars, BevMo!, Total Wine, Whole Foods,
and Raley’s. Business is going very well
for their small payroll. So well, in fact,
that they have already sold out of their
Summer 2014Winter 2015
newest offering, Danger Dog, an 80 proof,
rough cut cinnamon whiskey with just a
hint of maple sweetness.
The whole time I had been talking with
Jeff, I’d been sitting on one of the very
comfy couches in the front room. Boul-
der had remained stationary, asleep on
an adjacent sofa like a gargantuan throw
pillow. Time was running out, as Jeff had
to get home to his wife and 7 month old
daughter. I had tried to come prepared
with a list of questions and topics, but we
had gotten lost in stories about his begin-
nings. We touched briefly on the present,
but what really interested me was the fu-
ture. I asked for just a few more minutes,
if it wasn’t too much of a problem, and
he graciously obliged. And poured me a
second Danger Dog, which was
dangerously delicious.
I asked Jeff what his five year plan was.
He chuckled, but didn’t skip a beat. Man
with a plan. It is no secret that up until re-
cently, Nevada has been less than hospi-
table toward distillers. State laws made it
very difficult for small operations to come
to fruition, let alone profitability. Restric-
tions regarding direct sales and distribu-
tion were major hurdles. Headway was re-
ally only made in the last decade or so. It
still isn’t a cakewalk, which is part of the
reason Jeff initially chose the California
side of the lake to set up shop. However,
despite its impressive craft beer and wine
industry, or maybe rather because of it,
California isn’t the most friendly state
toward distillers either. This shocked me.
I threw out multiple examples of bran-
dy distillers operating in the state and
was confused as to why Tahoe Moon-
shine would be treated any differently.
Jeff’s answer was concise, and telling.
The grape lobby.
He explains that he could have made it
easier on himself; all he had to do was
add 10% brandy to each of his products
and doors would open. But that isn’t Jeff.
That wouldn’t be in compliance with his
vision for his products. One of the things
that California law allows had he added
the brandy is the ability to serve and sell
directly to customers onsite without a dis-
tributor. New law in Nevada allows direct
sales on-site including small-batch, non-
production products, as well as testers
and prototypes of exciting new flavors.
By the end of March, Jeff hopes to have
completed the move into their new home,
which will include a speakeasy bar and
tasting room, a few miles down the road
in Stateline, NV. He told me that he had
actually been down at the location ear-
lier that day finishing up some electri-
cal work, satisfying the contractor still
in him, even though he has given all of
his time to Tahoe Moonshine and let
his license lapse this last year. The new
place will be a bit larger than their cur-
rent 1,400 square foot location, but will
accommodate their current demand of
about 50 cases a day without pushing the
limits of their current 2,000 case annual
production capabilities. He is also excit-
ed to add a second still to the workflow,
another custom design.
Jeff has high hopes for the future. Eter-
nally humble, but I refuse to let him call
his hopes anything less than premoni-
tions. I seriously doubt he will cease turn-
ing the crystal clear Lake Tahoe water
into top shelf product, but he isn’t dis-
tracted by the future and accounts for
all contingencies. After the move, Tahoe
Moonshine’s top goals will be to intro-
duce a few new flavors, including a rye
and Dream Bean coffee liqueur with local
PAGE108 | MicroShiner.com
roaster Alpine Sierra. They are also work-
ing on a line of premixed drinks consigned
by MGM Resorts and, likely, national
brand recognition.
With that, I let Jeff go. It was apparent
that his passion could keep him talking
for hours more, but he is still a family
man. The interview took a while to set up
since he was jet setting the month prior,
off to Paris where is wife splits her work
time, and then down to Costa Rica to
surf and water his roots. I thanked him
for his time and he couldn’t have been a
better host. Before he took off, he asked
Seth to show me around again and an-
swer any more questions, then the two
of them made plans to hit the slopes for
an early morning ride at Heavenly before
coming back to work at their dream job.
With a handshake and a pet, I bid Jeff and
Boulder farewell.
Seth gave me a more nuanced tour of the
place, showing me all kinds of nifty dis-
tilling equipment they had collected. Bits
and pieces of specialty copper, mesh, col-
umn parts, and a variety of essential oil
equipment. I got to try a few of their pro-
totypes, including a one off batch of their
gin that came out deliciously cucumber-y
and a pomegranate hibiscus absinthe. I
have never had anything off the shelf with
such delicate flavors. Maybe they will see
a label, maybe not. Seth focuses mainly
on the product now, while Jeff handles
the business side of things. The two of
them come up with recipes, but they also
promote experimentation by their small
number of employees. Eight in total,
including a few sales and
marketing specialists.
Seth shared great stories about the be-
ginnings of the company. Told about
wild beginnings, surfing, partying, a jam
band concert where he and Jeff both
became the first people to know the other
was having a kid. Their daughters were
born two weeks apart. We walked back
into what served as the tasting room and
he pulled some chips and hummus from
a fridge with a toaster oven on top that
I hadn’t noticed before. He continued to
pour samples and described the whole
process in a way that sounded holistic.
Like the sculptor that sees the art in the
clay before he touches a tool. Yeast stud-
ies, yeast recordings, how they sound like
whale calls while they are healthy, and TV
snow when they aren’t. Part superstition,
he says he talks to them like plants and
plays them music, believing in the power
of intention and positive energy. All of this
coming from a guy that would look right
at home at a Metallica show, hair longer
than Jeff’s under a plain beanie.
Both of them very cool, very
passionate guys.
It was getting late. I intended to be in and
out of their hair in about an hour, but I
had stayed for nearly three. Usually I am
hyper aware of being an imposition, but
never did that cross my mind. They were
so welcoming and never once made me feel
uncomfortable. I am sure the generous
tastings helped, but even when we parted
ways, both made sure I had their con-
tact information and would call them if I
needed anything else, or if I just wanted to
come by again and kick it. I needed to kill
some time, get some food, and then battle
the elements back through the mountains
and the weather that was brewing.
I can’t wait to get back up there, to see
their new place, but I am more excited to
see them appear in more local bars and
stores. Tahoe Moonshine, like the lake it-
self, a perfect, oval cut sapphire in a gran-
ite setting, is unique, robust, and stands
for everything the Sierra Nevada moun-
tains have come to represent.
Raw but still fragile. And loved by many.
Winter 2015
hiGh alTiTude
The word “après” has for decades been an essential term in ski culture.
Few experiences are more satisfying than finishing a day on the slopes by
sipping a cocktail at the base of the mountain. In Colorado, where the heavy
influence of craft beer culture dominates the drink menu at most establishments, it
can take some effort to track down a cocktail stocked with handmade, small batch
liquor. Lucky for you, MicroShiner has done the research on the subject and come back
with some of the best craft cocktails in the high country. Next time you’re departing
Denver west on I-70, check out one of these slope-side bars.
Curated by Tim Wenger
Colorado’s Après Spirits
Rathskellar Bar, Loveland
At the base of Loveland Ski Area, the Rathskellar Bar
sits tucked away in the bottom floor of the main lodge. In
lieu of drinking upstairs with the tourists, the locals pre-
fer The Rathskellar for its laid back vibe and homemade
chili, as well as a bar fully stocked with Colorado origi-
nals. The Rathskellar is open daily from 10 am to 6 PM.
Dave’s Drifter
The signature cocktail of bar manager Dave Tilley has
long been a local’s favorite. Named after Tilley and one
of his favorite runs, Dave’s Drifter is the house favorite.
Dave has been running the show in the Rathskeller for
19 years. The drink is made with Tincup Colorado Ameri-
can Whiskey, Loveland’s Homemade Irish Cream, Coffee
Liquor with choice of coffee or hot chocolate topped with
whipped cream.
PAGE118 | MicroShiner.com
Incline Bar and Grill, Copper Mountain
Incline Bar and Grill is located in the Mill Club Build-
ing at the base of the American Eagle lift at Copper
Mountain and has developed a reputation as the
place to go at Copper for local spirits and 17 Colorado
microbrews. As far as craft spirits, this place is a mecca-
five vodkas, one gin, 3 bourbons, and one liqueur. Ryan
Worthen, one of the establishment’s managing partners,
walked us through their list of craft cocktails.
Colorado Manhattan
A high altitude take on the east coast classic -
Breckenridge Bourbon and Breckenridge Bourbon
Sipping Bitters.
Colorado Bourbon Whiskey Sour
Breckenridge Bourbon with homemade sour
mix (2 parts lime juice, 2 parts lemon juice,
3 parts sugar, 3 parts water)
PAGE120 | MicroShiner.com
T-Bar, Breckenridge
The T-Bar sits at the base of Peak 8 in Breck,
and is known for its Bacon Bloody Mary.
However, the team at the T-Bar has put together a
good list of craft cocktails. “The T-Bar is the best
place for apres on the mountain,” says Alysa Hetze,
Sr. Communications Coordinator for Breckenridge Ski
Resort. “There are gorgeous views of Peak 8. We have an
indoor and outdoor seating area, so it’s a great place to
come have a drink at the end of the ski day. There is
always live entertainment in here on the weekends.” The
T-Bar is open daily at 11 am, with last call happening
generally between 5 and 6 pm.
Sno Mule
The Sno Mule is made with J&L Distilling’s Sno
Vodka, fresh mint, lime juice, simple syrup,
and Gosling’s Ginger Beer.
Fyr Side
The Fyr Side is crafted with J&L Distilling’s Fyr Liqueur,
hard cider, lemon juice, served over ice.
Peach 8 Apple Cider
This drink is made with Leopold Bros. Rocky Mtn.
Peach Liqueur, Cinnamon Schnapps, garnished with a
cinnamon stick and a dollop of whipped cream.
PAGE122 | MicroShiner.com
Corona Bar, Eldora Mountain Resort
The Corona Bar is the home base for apres when ski-
ing at Eldora. Located upstairs in the Timbers Lodge,
the place features live music on weekends (gener-
ally jam band and bluegrass, the resort is located just
outside of Nederland, one of the state’s most notori-
ous “hippie towns”) and generally keeps the party going
until about 6 pm.
Eldora Eggnog
Bar manager Chris Turner put this concoction together
to thicken the blood of patrons after they spend a day
outside in the windy Roosevelt National Forest. Start-
ing with a quart of Chris’ home-made eggnog, he adds
12 oz of bourbon whiskey and 1 ½ oz of brandy.
PAGE124 | MicroShiner.com
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Best Customer Service In The Craft Industry
Now offering all copper stills 250 gallon and smaller
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