MEVLEVİSOMADI
743 . ŞEB-İ ARUZ MÜNASEBETİYLE
7 -30 Aralık 2016
“HUUU SOMATA SALAAA”
“Aşkın olgunluğu, sevenle sevilenin birleşmesindedir, beri gelin; yağla unun bir daha ayrılmayacak kadar
karılmasından meydana gelen bulamaç gibi karılın, katışın birbirinize”Divan-ı Kebir 3 : S.228 Beyit: 2131
Hz Mevlana Türk - İslam kültürünün yüce doruklarından biridir.
Hayat felsefesini, “Hamdım, Piştim, Yandım” sözleriyle açıklayan yüce Mevlana, Allah’a ulaşma yolundaki fikirlerini sayısız yemek sembolleriyle de açıklar.
Mevlevilik’ te mutfak kutsaldır.. Dervişliğe soyunan kişi 1001 gün sürecek eğitimine mutfakta başlar. Mutfakta belirlenmiş kurallar vardır, bunların dışına çıkılamaz.
Öldüğünde dünyada adına ateş rengi taşlarla anıt mezar yaptırılan ilk aşçı muhtemelen Hz. Mevlana’nın aşçısı Hz. Ateşbaz-ı Veli’dir; ve ilk ekipleşme Mevlevi Mutfağı’nda başlatılmıştır.
Oyluk etiyle gerdan etinin birlikte pişirilmesinden, badem helvasıyla kahvenin birlikte sunulmasından söz edecek kadar gurme bir kişiliğe de sahip olan Hz Mevlana’dan kaynaklanan Mevlevilik,
çok seçkin bir mutfak ortaya koymuştur. Bu menüde Hz Mevlana’nın eserlerinde anılan ve günümüzde Konya’da yaşayan yemekler, aslına uygun olarak o dönemin malzemeleriyle sunulmaktadır.
Sadece, Mevlevi Pilavı ya da Hassaten Lokma Abdülbaki Gölpınarlı’nın anlatımından;Gül Yapraklı Marul Salatası Ali Eşref Dede’nin Yemek Risalesi’nden standartlaştırılmıştır.
İçeceklere gelince, Sirkencübin tarifi, Hz. Mevlana tarafından verilen ender tarifelerdendir. Tarifeler bölümünde görebilirsiniz. Gül şerbeti, günümüzde de bilinen bir şerbettir.
İlginçtir, kaynaklarda kahvenin 15, 16. yüzyıllarda İstanbul’ a geldiği belirtilir; oysa 13. yüzyılda kahvenin Konya’ da kullanıldığı Mesnevi, Divan-ı Kebir ve diğer eserlerde görülmektedir.
Mevleviler yemeğe tuzla başlayıp, tuzla bitirirlerdi. Sofra hazır olunca görevli “Huuu Somata Salaaa” diyerek davet yapar, herkes gelince yemek şeyh ya da sofradaki en kıdemli kişinin yemeğe başlamasıyla başlar ve onun duasıyla sona ererdi.
Ben de sizleri Mevleviler gibi sofraya davet ediyorum:
“HUUUU SOMATA SALAAAA”……..
Afiyet Olsun, Efendim….
Reçetesini beğenmediğiniz veya damak tadınıza uymayan yemeklerden ücret alınmaz.Served meals which are not appreciated by our guests will not be charged by Matbah Ottoman Palace Cuisine
Yemek adlarının yanında yazılmış çeşitli tarihler, o yemeğin alındığı en eski yazılı kaynağa aittir
OSMANLI SARAY MUTFAĞI
A Samāc During the Leadership of Rūmī's Successor, Ḥusām Al-Dīn ChelebiTarjuma-i Thawāqib-i manāqib (A Translation of Stars of the Legend), in Turkish
The translation was ordered in 1590 by Sultan Murād III (r. 1574–95) from the Persian abridgement of Aflākī.Iraq, Baghdad
1590s225 x 130 mm Purchased by Pierpont Morgan, 1911 MS M.466, fol. 159
“Love’s maturity lies in the union of the lover and the beloved, come hither; blend into one another and fuse
together, like the bulamaç aş that is born when fat and flour blend into one another until they become inseparable”.
Divan-ı Kebir Book 3: Page 228 Couplet: 2131
Hazreti Mevlana is one of the greatest personages in Turkish-Islamic culture.
The great Mevlana, who illustrated his philosophy of life with the words “I was raw, I was cooked, I was burned” also makes frequent use of food symbolism to convey his theories on how to reach God.
Cuisine is sacred for the Mevlevi Sufis … Anyone wishing to become a dervish must begin his 1001 day training period in the kitchen. There are strict established rules regarding the organisation of the kitchen.
Hazreti Mevlana’s chef Hazreti Ateşbaz-ı Veli is probably the first chef in the world to have had a mausoleum built from flame coloured stones erected in his honour. The first structural organisation of a kitchen began in the Mevlevi Kitchen. The Mevlevi Order, set up by Hazreti Mevlana,
who was sufficiently versed in gourmet matters to advocate cooking round steak together with chuck meat and serving almond helva with coffee, has created an extremely refined cuisine. This menu consists of dishes taken from
Hazreti Mevlana’s works and those still thriving in present day Konya, and, in keeping with that era, have been prepared using only the ingredients available at that time.
The exceptions are Mevlevi Pilav or Hassaten Lokma, which comes from Abdülbaki Gölpınarlı’s work, and Lettuce Salad with Rose Petals, which has been standardised from Ali Eşref Dede’s Food Treatise.
As for the drinks, the recipe for Sirkencübin (honey mixed with vinegar) is one of the few recipes passed down to us from Hazreti Mevlana himself, as you will see from the recipes section.
Rose sherbet is a sherbet we also know today. Interestingly, sources state that coffee reached Istanbul in the 15th-16th centuries, but we can see from the Mesnevi, Divan-ı Kebir and other works
that it was used in Konya as early as the 13th century.
The Mevlevi Sufis began and ended their meal with salt. When the table was laid one of the disciples would invite everyone to eat by calling out “Huuu Somata Salaaa” (the table is spread).
When everyone was assembled at the table the meal would begin when the sheikh or, in his absence, the most senior dervish, began eating, and would end with his prayer.
I too invite you to the table in the way of Mevlana:
“HUUUU SOMATA SALAAAA”……..
Bon appetit dear guests
Reçetesini beğenmediğiniz veya damak tadınıza uymayan yemeklerden ücret alınmaz.Served meals which are not appreciated by our guests will not be charged by Matbah Ottoman Palace Cuisine
Dates written next to the dishes do indicate the oldest written source from which the recipe were taken
Tutmaç Çorbası " slere bulanmı tencere gibi tutmaç pe indesin; nerde Keremna sırrına mazhar olu tan do an ululuk, nerde
padi ahça himmet gayret?"
"Türk toplumu tekmilce ana bacı, Güzel yemek yapmak için Hak’ka duacı, Orta Asya’yı Anadolu’ya kadar uzattık, Bir mübarek a tır, unutur muyuz hiç tutmacı"
Feyzi Halıcı
Koyun eti, süzme yo urt, yumurta
Tutmaç Soup "Like a steam-misted couldron, you pursue tutmaç; where is the greatness born of bonouring the Almighty’s
secret? Where the kingly support and effort?
Across the land Turkish mothers, sisters pray To eat food obtained in a lawful way Central Asia to Anatolia we’ve stretched, And the divine taste of tutmaç is not one we’ll forgot."
Feyzi Halıcı
Lamb, strained yogurt, egg
MEVLEVİ SOMADI
6
“HUUUU SOMATA SALAAAA”
Çorbalar / Soups Günün Çorbası / Daily Soup
Soğuk İştah Açıcılar / Cold Appetizers
Patlıcan Salatası"Patlıcanın dostu ne? Sirke ile sarımsak."
"Münkir ekşi de olsa şaşılmaz, patlıcanın ekşiyle münasebeti vardır."
Patlıcan, sarımsak, üzüm sirkesi
Aubergine Salad "Who are the aubergine’s friends? Vinegar and garlic."
"It is no surprise if an unbeliever is sour, aubergines have a rapport with sourness."
Aubergine, garlic, wine vinegar
Kestaneli Lahana SarmasıPirinç, soğan, kestane ve baharatlarla hazırlanan lahana sarması
Cabbage Rolls with chestnut and rice Cabbage stuffed with rice, onions, and chestnut
7
Zeytinyağlı EnginarPatates, havuç, bezelye, sarımsak ve dereotuyla yapılmı zeytinya lı enginar
Stuffed Artichokes with Olive Oil Served with potato, carrot, sweet peas, garlic, and dill
8
Sıcak İştah Açıcılar / Hot Appetizers
Hassaten Lokma (Mevlevi Pilavı) Kuzu eti, pirinç, nohut, havuç ve kestaneyle hazırlanan Mevlevilerin en özel pilavı
Hassaten Lokma (Mevlevi Rice) Rice with lamb, chickpea, carrot and chestnut;
which is the most well-known rice recipe regarding the Mevlevi Cuisine
Su böreği Yumurta, un, peynir
Börek Cooked in Water Egg, strong plain flour, cheese
Salatalar / Salads
Gül Yapraklı Marul Salata Yumurta akıyla ve limonla bezenen marul salata
House Green Salad Garden greens tossed in ‘Dilber’ dressing made of lemon and white of egg.
CacıkSarımsak, süzme yo urt, salatalık, taze veya kuru nane
Yogurt and Cucumber Salad Garlic, strained yogurt, cucumber, fresh or dried mint
10
Ana Yemekler / Main Courses Tike Kebabı
Kuzu, dana zırhlanmı kıyma; köy tavu u; kuzu etinden ku ba ı, lava ve pilav e li inde ızgara
Çömlek Kebabı"O çömleği yağlı nimet verenlerin kapılarına, bir arda kalası tirit için koşup durmasın."
Kuzu eti, Patlıcan, Gök erik,
Tike Kebab Grilled veal, lamb and cubed chicken. Served on skewer with rice and lavash bread as well.
Pekmezli Ayva Dolması"Noksan sıfatlardan münezzeh Tanrı, bir elmalık meydana getiriyor; anlam elmalarını harf dalları, söz yaprakları arasında gizliyor. Dala yapraĵa benzeyen şu ses, ĸu söz perdesinden elmanın kokusu
geliyor; ancak, kendi görünmüyor. Bari bu kokuyu çek içine, iyi kokla da seni tutsun, temele çeksin."
Ayva, pirinç, üzüm pekmezi
Apples with Pekmez "God, who is free from all deficiency, creates an apple orchard, He hides apples of meaning among
branches of letters, leaves of words. The smell of apples wafts out of that sheets of words, that noise resembling branches and leaves, only He remains unseen. Inhalle this fragrance, inhale it well
that it may envelop you, draw you back to your origins. "
Apples, rice, pekmez (grape syrup)
Meat Roasted in a Clay Pot "You abandon that pot at the door where there are rich victuals to the
had, and run off in pursuit ofa leftover tirit. "
Lean lamb, aubergine, unripe plums
Kırma Tavuk Kebabı
Karamelize soğan yatağında ızgara tavuk dilimleri, safranlı pilav ile
Chicken Kebab Grilled chicken and vegetables served on a lavash bread and accompanied with rice
Fiyatlarımıza KDV dahildir. V.A.T included.
Reçetesini beğenmediğiniz veya damak tadınıza uymayan yemeklerden ücret alınmaz.Served meals which are not appreciated by our guests will not be charged by Matbah Ottoman Palace
Cuisine
Vejeteryan Yemekler / Vegeterian Courses
Ispanak Boranisi
"Seher çağı, bana coşkun bir ses geldi; kalyadan, boraniden güzel bir koku geliyor burnuma."
Ispanak, kuru so an, tulum peyniri, sarımsaklı yo urt, tereya ı
Güveçte Bademli Levrek Badem, domates, biber ve defne yaprağı ile hazırlanmış, kişniş ile tatlandırılmış güveçte servis edilen levrek fleto
Seabass Filet Seabass Filet served on casserol , prepared with almond,
tomato, pepper, bay leaf, seasoned with cilantro.
Kabak TatlısıTahin ile tatlandırılmış bal kabağı tatlısı
Pumpkin Dessert Pumpkin Dessert flavored with the tahini
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Levzine Toz şekerli badem helvası
Levzine
Pounded almond halva with powdered sugar
Spinach with Onions (Spinach Borani "Just before daybreak I heard an excited voice; the lovely aroma of kalye and borani is
wafting towards me."
Spinach, onion, rice, tulum cheese, yogurt with garlic, clarified butter
Deniz Mahsülleri / Seafood
Tatlılar / Desserts
In the heart of Old Istanbul, next to Hagia Sophia and a few steps from Topkapi Palace, Matbah Restaurant offers a selection of dishes that used to be served at the court of the Ottoman Empire.
We invite you to embark on our historical voyage and experience the exclusive delight of a menu fit for a sultan.
Treat yourself as a Sultan
"Specialised in Ottoman palace cuisine, Matbah Restaurant is well worth a visit. The chef has sourced 375 recipes from the imperial archives. The surrounds are attractive and live Ottoman music is performed on Friday and Saturday nights"
Lonely Planet
"I was pleased to hear of your meticulousness about Ottoman cuisine, and of your fearless use of spices common in Ottoman cuisine, such as coriander, cinnamon and ginger."
Marianna Yerasimos, Food Historian
"In a venue that offers a menu �t for its location and its name, right next to Topkapı Palace, local and foreign guests can taste dishes that used to be prepared centuries ago"
Gastronomi, local Food & Beverage Magazine
"All selected dishes were tried, the measures of the ingredients adapted to today's measures and every detail of the cooking process noted. At the end of these researches, the menu was set up. Absolute favourites include Neck of lamb with thyme and Rice pilaf with saffron and chickpeas."
Hürriyet, National Newspaper
“A highly unlikely possibility as the blending of cooked fruits and nuts with meats and vegetables, the variety and quality of the ingredients, the unexpected combinations all enhanced by �avorful and aromatic herbs and spices combine to make dining at Matbah a singular, memorable experience.”
Myrna Katz Frommer and Harvey Frommer
"The meal I had here de�nitely �ts the principles of traditional Turkish cuisine. In many dishes we see a beautiful harmony between sweet and sharper savours, with a sophisticated presentation.”
Vedat Milor, Food and Wine critic
"A lavish, garden-style restaurant where the chefs have painstakingly replicated centuries-old recipes. The creamy bitter-almond soup and the honeydew melon stuffed with minced beef, rice, almonds and raisins are sweet and salty without too much heft. Ah, it is good to be sultan."
Hemispheres Magazine, United Airlines
"Whenever you come to Istanbul, if you want to eat like a sultan, go to Matbah Restaurant, next to Hagia Sophia"
Discovery Channel
Reception at the Court of Sultan Selim III (1761-1807) Topkapı Palace Museum
“MATBAH” WELCOMES EXCLUSIVE GUESTS
AND GOURMETS TO THE STYLISH
“OTTOMAN PALACE CUISINE” MAINTAINING ITS UNIQUE HERITAGE
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