Quality is a journey, not a destination.
What is Quality?
“Quality is never an accident it is always the result of high intension, sincere effort ,
intelligent direction and skillful execution; it represents the wise choice of many
alternatives”
Prof. Juran
What is Control? Check whether work or not work is being done
properly- is control.
Control is not possible unless objectives and targets are clearly defined.
What is Quality control? “Quality control is a process, a set of activities
designed & regulate the effectiveness of production to achieve quality.”
• Materials
• Information
input
• CONTROLS
• Procedures
• Specification
• Acceptance criteria
• Training
• Objectives
• RESOURCES
• Equipment
• People
Process
• Transformed materials
output
Where needs QA activity?
Desired results are achieved more efficiently when related resources & activities are managed as a process….
Why Measure the Process ?
If you can not measure it You can not manage it
If you can not manage it You can not control it
If you can not control it You can not improve it
Measure is the basis of improvement !
What to Measure in a Process ?
- What is most critical in order to satisfy customer needs ?
E.g. Performance, time, Efficiency & Using optimum resources - Where do we have problems today ? E.g. defects, bottleneck, Complaints, unable to understand needs
of quality & unskilled operators. - Where can problems arise tomorrow ? E.g. operator absent, Benchmarking, etc
What we need to know to measure in process???
Wms manual
General Checking points of Shirts
Specification & Block pattern
Defect classification
Key msmt
Inspection procedure
Defect zone
How to measure
1. How to measure? Please see the video
2. General Checking points of Shirts Please see the video
3. Workmanship manual * Men casual
* Men collection * EDC men * Denim men Please see all attached file
4. Specification & Block pattern Specification : DSS, SWS & MDS
4. Block pattern & Grading philosophy
5. Defect classification Please see attached file
6. Defect Zone
7. Key measurement
7. Key measurement
8. Inspect procedure
8. Inspect procedure
Workshop Group Exercise
• Group Discussion • Choose group leader • Write comments/ideas
1.COMMUNICATION Case Study: Suppose you are asked to make a shirt made with shading fabric. o When and whom do you inform if you find that you can’t
meet the required quality standard? • During fabric inspection? • During production? o What actions do you take to ensure that, style will meet the
standard? • During Fabric inspection? • During bulk production?
When and whom do you inform if you find that you can’t meet the required standard? what action do you take to ensure that style will meet the requirements? During Fabric inspection: - Inform merchant team, production head, cutting & CAD dept. - Inform Fabric supplier if result is fail. - Take measurable step prior to start cutting. During bulk production: - Cutting Marker t/b accurate as per fabric inspection report. - Fabric t/b cut shade/lot wise. - Maintain labeling, numbering properly. - Use shade label in the sewing line. - Send the garments to wash separately by using color binder to identify shade
variation / magnitude.
1.COMMUNICATION- SOLUTION PROPOSAL
2. Defect Classification
on workmanship
Defects Defect Explanation Zone 1 Zone 2 Zone 3
Thread colour incorrect (refering to sample work sheet)
Affecting appearance M M M
Thread thickness incorrect (refering to sample work sheet)
Affecting appearance M M M
Broken seam/ open seam/ needle holes M M M
Holes/damaged fabric due to damaged needles M M M
Size of stitches incorrect
Affecting appearanceM M M
Thread tension not correct M M m
Stretchability of seam or hem incorrect M M M
Untidily joined topstitching M M m
Blind stitching visible on outside M M M
Roping M M m
Puckering
Affecting appearanceM M m
Hanging threads M M m
Uneven/drifting/ wavy stitch line M M m
Unfinished /insecurely finished seams/ not
backtacked
M M M
Bartacks damaged/ incorrect M M M
Feed damage M M M
Stretched curves (e.g. armholes, necklines) M M M
Sewn in pleats M M m
Basting stitch/prestitch exposed M M m
Uneven gatherings M M m
Twisting M M M
Unclean seam M M m
Unbalanced/ uneven components (e.g. pocket height, collar
points)
Affecting appearance
M M m
Lengths (sleeves, seams, overlap/underlap,plackets...)
Affecting appearance M M M
Shapes (neckline, ...)
Affecting appearanceM M M
Distribution (gatherings, ...)
Affecting appearanceM M M
Symmetry
Workmanship
2. Defect classification _ Fabric Defects Defect Explanation Zone 1 Zone 2 Zone 3
Weaving defects: (less than 1cm)
Broken yarn
Slubs
Pills, neps, double pick or mispick
M
M
M
M
M
(m)
M
M
(m)
Flying fibres/ fly-ins: (less than 1cm)
Low contrast
High contrast
M
M
(m)
M
(m)
M
Knots M M m
Pulled threads M M m
Holes M M M
Grainline not correct/ bowing (e.g. slub) M M m
Permanent creases, washer wrinkles M M M
Nap variation/ pile deformation
Affecting appearanceM M M
Finishing/ coating damaged
Affecting appearanceM M M
Print defects:
Bleeding edge, smeared colour
Misregistration
M
M
M
M
M
M
Within garment M M M
From garment to garment
Low contrast
High contrast
m
M
m
M
m
M
Grainline not correct
Affecting appearanceM M M
Nap not correct
Affecting appearanceM M M
Checks/ stripes not matched (refering to sample
work sheet)
M m m
Cutting
Fabric
Colour shading
3. PRODUCTION PROBLEM
Case Study: You are a supplier who often gets complaints regarding collar wms issues: The collar is not symmetrical/hi-low points/ collar point flying. What could be the reason behind? What kind of action do you take in production to avoid it?
Describe in details
3. PRODUCTION PROBLEM- SOLUTION PROPOSAL
What could be the reason? o Cut panel are not accurate. o Neck shape is not symmetrical between Left & right side. o Collarstand notch shape is not ok. o Collarstand button & buttonhole position is not ok. o Collar points length are not ok left & right both side. What kind of action do you take in production to avoid it? o As per block pattern upper & lower collar t/b different. So cutting s/b same. o Collar need to cut by band knife cutting machine. o During sewing of collar, ease of outer collar m/b kept. It should not be cut out while sewing. o During collarstand joining with collar, the NOTCH mark m/b followed. o Collarstand button & buttonhole position t/b correct. o Collar points length both side s/b even. o Front neck shape t/b regular, smooth & symmetrical. o Need to train up operator as well as QC to make them aware about optimum quality
standard.
How expected quality of Esprit can be achieved?
Share your ideas with us!
Thank you
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