Download - HEX-E01- Everyday stroll for an elephant but it3s a …...find her destiny. And just like that, we are off; an everyday stroll for her but a complete adventure for me. Just like a

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Page 1: HEX-E01- Everyday stroll for an elephant but it3s a …...find her destiny. And just like that, we are off; an everyday stroll for her but a complete adventure for me. Just like a

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ONCE in a while I experiencesomething which will stay with mefor the rest of my life.

Although I’m in a job whichpunches above its weight when itcomes to accessing out of theordinary activities, I can count thosespecial days on two hands: picnickingwith penguins in Antarctica; divingwith manta rays in the Maldives; andchanting with monks in Bhutanbeing among them.

On the do-before-you-die scale, I’veprobably hit the jackpot.

So I wasn’t expecting to add to thatpeerless list on this trip to the PhangNga province of Thailand.

“If you can imagine it, we canorganise it,” says the Sarojin Hotel’saptly named ‘ima gineer’, DavidKoegelenberg before casuallymentioning we can go elephant riding— b a re b a ck .

I can hardly believe my ears.Riding skin to skin like a mahout is

a world away from trekking on one ofthose sloping thrones you seeharnessed to elephants; it provides awhole new level of intimacy.

The full span of my arms barelycovers the massive prehistoric-looking skull and while her head iscovered with bristly broom-lengthhairs, the soft pink skin behind herears, where I’m asked to tuck mydangling legs, is as smooth as marble.

My mount slightly tightens hersensitive ears around my calves asmy toes hook themselves into the

lower groove of her speckled pinke a r s.

I’m told that 35-year-old Bua,meaning lotus, is a single girl yet tofind her destiny.

And just like that, we are off; aneveryday stroll for her but a completeadventure for me.

Just like a mischievous pony, shefancies a bit of greenery en route tothe lake and reaches high into a treefor the sweetest looking leaves.

As she dextrously shakes the tip ofher trunk to free the branch a showerof red ants covers her back — and me.

Yes, they bite and, yes, they hurt.With nowhere to run but quite a

way to fall I urgently brush them offmy naked limbs and shake out my (ohthank goodness I was wearing) wide-brimmed hat before sweeping theremainder from her head.

Of course, they don’t seem tobother her at all, that leathery pinkand grey skin is as impenetrable as itfeels to touch.

And so we continue — now with asense of perilous expectation.

It takes a little while to regain somesense of internal composure and Iurgently fight to recover a centre ofgravity that feels seriously wobbly.

My eyes scout for anything thatmight resemble a forthcomingelephant temptation.

All the while, the skilful mahout(who I like to think of as my safetybelt), is perched nimbly on Bua’srump calling ‘hun hun’ (on on), as hetaps relentlessly with his tiny legs.Mowgli and madam continue on.

Bua senses the refreshing coolness

of the lake long before it comes intoview and raises her trunk to rumbleher internal delight of anticipation.

It feels like a Goliath cat’s purr ofpleasure with a confusing paradox: Ifeel cat-sized, perched high, and attimes vulnerable, on this massivec re at u re ’s neck.

I’m doing it without much thoughtand no training, and once in situbegan the journey without evenknowing if there was a handbrakeava i l abl e.

I realise that the immediate trustand respect we hold for these benignmatriarchs and patriarchs is as

intuitive as our relationship with,say, our pet dogs.

I expected the intimacy to holdsome kind of energy or vibration,such is the apparent wisdom andintelligence of pachyderms, but feelnothing but my own awe.

As each steady slip-slip of slipper-

silent foot transfers its weightforward to its destination I sway everso slightly with the natural motion ofan elephant on the move.

Then I spy the lake — a massiveclearing giving way to a vast expanseof sparkling tropical waters.

It rains generously in Thailand

resulting in dense swathes of rubberand palm oil forests — the numberone and two earners for the regionfollowed by tourism in third place —and the surrounding hillside is apicture of shiny greens morphing inall shades and hues.

Quite a dazzling vista but theelephant had only one thing in mind:w at e r.

We effortlessly enter the lake andthen plunge with tangible relief intoits depths.

Bua’s trunk fills and empties gallonupon gallon of the cool refreshing

liquid. With no fear of falling orinjury, I sway this way, that way, androcked with delight on my elephantro d e o.

She is having fun and so am I;leaning forward to stroke the bridgeof her elongated trunk, then back torub her ears and splash water acrossher brow.

We move in a relaxed kind ofunison with an equal sense of utterjoy and contentment.

They say elephants never forget —neither will I.

Everyday stroll for an elephant but it’s a complete adventure for meLife is not measuredby the number ofbreaths we take butthe moments thattake our breath away,says Heaven on Earthtravel writer andtelevision presenter,SARAH SIESE. Here,she relives one of hermost magical travelmoments yet

Where

■ Sarah stayed at The SarojinHotel (www.sarojin.com) basednorth of Khao Lak and at the heartof an 11km-long beach.

Khao Lak is just north of Phuketin the unspoilt Phang Ngap ro v i n c e .

What

■ Something of a sanctuary, TheSarojins 56 rooms are built in ahorse-shoe design on a 10-acreplot surrounded by a perimeter offeathery casuarina trees andpalms.

Its direct access to the beach is abenefit but many guests choose torelax in the oasis around the pool.

“It never feels busy, even at fulloccupancy, as guests choose howto spend their day from a long listof options including beach picnicsunder a sea almond tree just ashort stroll along the beach; tosunset cruises that hug thenorthern coastline into picturesquemangrove collared bays,” saysSarah.

Factfile

BAREBACK: Heaven on Earth travel writer and presenter Sarah Siese ridingelephant Bua bareback with her ‘skilful mahout’

HOTEL: The Sarojin Ficus RestaurantTHE SAROJIN, THAILAND

BOAT: Phang Nga Bay in Thailand SARAH SIESE

AL FRESCO: Dining on the sandy beach at The Sarojin, Phang Nga,Thailand SARAH SIESE

BAY: Phang Nga Bay, Thailand SARAH SIESE

Massive OutdoorAdventures

Special TV charactershow daysT rave l T rave l