Travel

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THE ESSENTIALS:

• Elizabeth travelled to Paphos with Easyjet from Gatwick, www.easyjet.com.Chartered flights to Paphos are also available from Bournemouth airport with Thomson Airways, www.thomson.co.uk

• Elizabeth stayed at the Elysium, a member of Great Hotels of the World, 020 7380 3658, www.ghotw.com/elysium-beach

from its open kitchen. Herbs andvegetables are grown on land adjacent tothe hotel ensuring that the daily deliveryis fresh from picking.

Away from the hotel, we found thelocal sights and monuments equallyimpressive. Saints Paul and Barnabaswere among the early missionaries toCyprus. The Roman Governor ProconsulSergius Paulus made Cyprus the firstcountry to be converted to earlyChristianity with freedom to worshipfrom 313AD. Cyprus continues to have adeeply religious feel and relics areplentiful: from St Paul’s whipping postoutside Panagia Chrysopolitissa Church,where he was punished for preaching, totiny monasteries high up in the hillswhere chanting rings out into thesurrounding countryside,

One of our favourite visits was to the

charming Chrysorrogiatissa Monasteryand winery in Panagia, where wine hasbeen made from local grapes forcenturies. Potted flowers and herbs linethe walkways with the monastery chapelawash with gold. Icons feature widely inCypriot churches and, scattered acrossthe island, even the tiniest are rich inhistoric images of Christ and his saints.

Paphos has a number of greatarchaeological sites to visit. The ancientTombs of The Kings, adjacent to theElysium, provide cavernous relics fromthe days when Cyprus’ great rulers wereburied in style before returning to theunderworld. Their intricate honeycombstructure carved into sheer rock was alsoa hiding place for persecuted Christians,and you can climb down into the mazeof interconnecting tombs to explorethem for yourself.

Nearby Kato Paphos ArchaeologicalPark includes relics from prehistorictimes as well as the remains ofspectacular Roman villas, their mosaicfloor coverings as vivid as they werewhen they were first laid. The OdeonTheatre, a stone structure still used as itwas in ancient times, now hosts outdoorconcerts, plays and games, while theruins of a 13th century castle provide ascenic walk as the sun sets at dusk.

Eating out in Cyprus is a wonderfulmix of Mediterranean influences, withthe meze, a feast of dishes, offering asample of everything: skewers of lamb,rich beef stew, salty grilled halloumicheese, olives, green salad, taramasalata ,tzatziki and hummus, tender baby squidand melt in the mouth whitebait. Serveddish by dish, the next arrived just as wevowed not to eat any more, mezes aremeals to be sat over and savoured with abottle of local wine.

Cyprus’ best finds were often tuckedaway down a side street or on aparticularly beautiful spot of coastline,with ancient relics lining the mosthumble looking stretch of road. Up inthe hills, or on a secluded patch of beachdeep into the rock, the island’s ancienthistory is just waiting to be discovered;the past no more than a whisper away. ■

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History abounds in Cyprus. Fromthe ancient Greeks to the Romansand Byzantines, the Turks and

more recently the British, the island’slocation at the crossroads of Europe hasseen it conquered and reconquered byinvading forces – each leaving their ownmark on its history and culture.

Ruled by Britain from 1878 to 1960,throwbacks to British rule are widelyvisible – from red telephone boxes andtraditional pubs to driving on the left.Cypriots have long-standing warmthtowards their British counterparts andthis, combined with their laid-back goodhumour and hospitality, makes you feelwelcomed wherever you go. Today, theSouthern side of the island isindependent, joining the EU in 2004,with the Northern side under Turkishcontrol since 1974.

But it’s Cyprus’ ancient history thatmakes it such an interesting place for aholiday. From Aphrodite’s Rock, thebirthplace of the Greek goddess, which

juts out to sea against one of the mostbeautiful stretches of coastline, to tinyByzantine monasteries half hidden inthe hills, touring the island provides an

insight into its ancient past, withhistorical sights around every corner.

We stayed in Paphos, a bustling harbourtown on the south coast, which was oncethe capital of the island and is one of itsmost popular holiday spots. Its pretty portis lined with tavernas and shady bars andits historical monuments are so plentifulthat the whole of Paphos is now listed onUNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage List.Paphos is also home to the five-starElysium, an ultra-luxurious hotel,renowned across the world.

In Greek mythology, Elysium was aplace of delight and eternal bliss and the

hotel is every bit just that. Locatedbeside the ancient Tombs of the Kingswith uninterrupted sea views, landscapedgardens, an outdoor amphitheatre, achapel and a wide range of leisure anddining facilities, the Elysium is designedwith indulgence in mind.

Standard rooms have balconiesoverlooking the sea below, but we stayedin a Cyprian Maisonette with split-levelaccommodation including an elegantdownstairs lounge area and a light andairy bedroom in the eaves. All rooms are decorated in warm, earthy tones,with furniture and fabrics reflectingCypriot tradition, and ours led out

onto a pretty private garden.Facilities at the Elysium are excellent.

There’s an Aveda concept spa for massageand beauty treatments, a Roman-styleindoor pool, and two outdoor pools, onecomplete with massaging water jets andviews over the sea below.

For dining, the Elysium has sixrestaurants to choose from. At the top ofthe scale, The Epicurean is a gourmetaffair with candlelit tables and silverservice all the way. The Lemonia Piazzaoffers lavish themed evenings whileduring the summer the outdoorMediterraneo serves Cypriot specialties

of AphroditeCyprus – land of myths and sunshineWords by Elizabeth van Hoppen

In the footsteps

Left: In mythology Petra tu Romiouwas the birthplace of Aphrodite, thegoddess of loveFar left and below: sea views from the terraces of the decadentElysium hotel.

ANCIENT RELICS LINE THE MOST HUMBLE STRETCH OF ROAD