1. The LouvreThere’s much to admire along this majestic walk through royal Paris: the art hanging on the world-famous museum’s walls, of course, but also the Louvre’s magnificent architecture, the Tuileries’ elegant landscaping, and Monet’s beloved murals in the Orangerie.
METRO: LOUVRE-RIVOLI
Walk down Rue de l’Amiral de Coligny toward the Seine. Fuel up at chic café Le Fumoir (1; 6 Rue de l’Amiral de Coligny). Cross the street and head beneath the arched gateway into the Louvre’s handsome Cour Carrée (2). Originally begun as a fortress in the 13th century, the Louvre was expanded in the 17th century to become a royal palace. Head straight across the courtyard and cross into the Cour Napoleon, where visitors enter the museum through I. M. Pei’s controversial pyramid (3). The Louvre is the largest museum in the world, with a for-midable collection that ranges from Mesopotamian antiquities to the Mona Lisa. Plan your visit carefully to avoid becoming overwhelmed—conquering the whole museum in a single day is a Napoleonic feat not worth attempting. Afterward, enjoy a scenic (if pricey) respite at the Café Marly (4), which enjoys a prized location beneath the arcades on the north side of the square. Continue west through the Tuileries, the royal garden designed in the 1600s by master landscaper André Le Nôtre. From here, several Paris landmarks align along the grand axis: the Louvre, the Tuileries, the Concorde’s Obélisque, the Champs-Elysées, the Arc de Triomphe, and the Grande Arche de la Défense. On your left at the far end of the gardens, the Musée de l’Orangerie (5) most famously houses Monet’s Nymphéas, but holds other masterpieces as well. To your right is the Jeu de Paume (6), a one-time royal tennis court that today houses the Centre National de la Photographie. Exit from the garden’s northwest corner to reach the Concorde metro.
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2. Around La Madeleine This stroll through chic and gourmet Paris is full of seductive pleasures, from glittering jewelry shops to deluxe purveyors of fine foods.
METRO: CONCORDE (exit at Rue Royale)
Head north along Rue Royale. On your left is legendary eatery Maxim’s, above which is housed the 1900 Collection (1; 3 Rue Royale), an assortment of Art Nouveau objects collected by owner Pierre Cardin (guided tour by reservation only; visit www.maxims-artnouveau-museum.com for details). Stop in at legendary salon de thé La Durée (2; #16), an old-world gilt and wood-paneled tea room complete with an ethereal painted ceiling. Be sure to sample some of their famous macaroons. Continue up to la Madeleine (3), a church in the form of a Greek Temple that was built in the 1800s to honor Napoleon’s Grande Armée (great army). These days, the shops surround-ing it make up a world-class culinary mecca. Turn right to visit Maille (4; 6 Pl. de la Madeleine), a shop devoted exclusively to mustard and vinegar. Continue counterclockwise around to epicurean temple Fauchon (5; #26–28), which carries museum-worthy cakes, confections, and savory delights. Check out what’s on at Pinacothèque de Paris (6; #28), a museum that hosts top-notch temporary exhibits. Continue around the square. Detour up Rue Pasquier to Square Louis XVI (7), a small garden that is home to the Chapelle Expiatoire. King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were buried here before their bodies were moved to St. Denis along with other victims of the French Revolution. Return to la Madeleine. Head south along the square’s edge. Stop in at upscale specialty grocer Hédiard (8; 21 Pl. de la Madeleine), truffle specialists Maison de la Truffe (9; #19), an outpost of legendary tea shop Mariage Frères, and Caviar Kaspia (both at 10; #17). Return down Rue Royale to the Concorde metro.
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