Mechanisms responsible of these features?
Theoretical analysis
+
Numerical modeling
+
Field data + video-imaging
Works by Prof. Dalrymple used as references, guidance and tools:
Wave propagation model – REF/DIF
Kirby, J.T. and R.A. Dalrymple (1983). A parabolic equation for the combined refraction-diffraction of stokes waves by mildly varying topography. Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Dalrymple, R.A., J.T. Kirby and P.A. Hwang (1984). Wave diffraction due to areas of energy dissipation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Kirby, J.T. and R.A. Dalrymple (1984). Verification of a parabolic equation for propagation of weakly non-linear waves. Coastal Engineering
Kirby, J.T. and R.A. Dalrymple (1985). Modifications to a propagation model for the combined refraction-diffraction of Stokes waves; shallow water, large angle and breaking wave effects. Report UFL/COEL-85/001
Works by Prof. Dalrymple used as references, guidance and tools:
Concepts, processes and analysis – Books and papers
Dean, R.G. and R.A. Dalrymple (1984). Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and
Scientists. World Scientific
Dalrymple, R.A. (1989). Water waves past abrupt channel transitions. Applied Ocean
Research
Dalrymple, R.A. (1992). Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles. Journal of Waterway,
Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
Dean, R.G. and R.A. Dalrymple (2000). Coastal Processes with Engineering
Applications. Cambridge University Press
Haller, M.C. and R.A. Dalrymple (2001). Rip current instabilities. Journal of Fluid
Mechanics
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