SIMPLE WEAVE DISTINCTIONS
Plain weave is over, under, over, under / construction of threads interwoven one to one.
Basket weave is 2 or more warp yarns used as one,
Any combination:
2-5 /2-3/2- 4/ 4-1, 4-2…
Fabric Upholstery Qualities : Weave , Yarn Texture & Finish for Interior Products
INTR –Admin Tex- ID Scanned (
Loom Weaves Illustrated
• Plain weave • Basket weave • Crepe / Waffle weave • Leno /Casement/ Lace • Twill weave • Rib / Faille/ Satin
• Satin / Damask • Dobby / Jacquard • Brocatelle / Brocade • Doublecloth /Matelasse • Pile / Cut or Uncut Pile
Simple Basket Weave Poly Boucle – Texture Yarn
Poly Chenille 4 harness chenille adds texture & looks more costly
Boucle / Chenille
NOVELTY YARN TYPES are specialty or complex yarns. SPECIALTY yarns are designed for their stretch & recovery potential. COMPLEX yarns are made for their uneven appearance with deliberate irregularities built in. SLUB, Thick & Thin & Flock Yarns are types of SINGLE YARNS. SLUB is a staple yarn that has a twist interrupted at intervals to have a bulky section.
Types of PLY YARNS / Names for BOUCLE RATINE & GIMP yarns are finer types of Boucle yarn. Then BOUCLE’ yarns are 3 ply with projecting loops. LOOP or curl yarns are larger than boucle loops. NUB yarns are 2 ply with a base yarn & an effect yarn. SPIRAL has a bulky & a fine yarn PLIED TOGETHER.
CHENILLE yarns are historically a leno weave fabric constructed then slit lengthwise as yarn. The weft are the fuzzy pile on the chenille yarn. Now it is any heavy textured soft yarn.
4 Blends- Rayon, Si, Co, Poly in a simple basketweave
3 Blend- Co, Rayon, Poly yarn in a simple, 4 harness Rib weave
with a chenille float yarn for texture effect
Textures with Chenille Yarns
The textures of a fabric will change with use.
Fabrics with a nap, such as velvet, look different in varied lighting and show wear as it is abraded, or sat on.
Silks are delicate but are usually strengthened with manmade fiber blends.
Highly textured fabrics like nubby tweeds can fray after much use and usually pill fairly quickly.
Fabrics that stand up best are flat weaves, like cotton, jacquard and damask weave but texture yarns add softness to a durable weave.
Poly Simple Weave 2-4 harness less production costs
2007 Residential Design
Simple Weave Distinctions continued
Twill weave always has diagonal slanted lines (you can draw a pen line) Example: 50% of Jeans are twill or modified twill Crepe is a pebbly or crinkly texture with excellent recovery & elongation , so very durable. Example- office chair upholstery Waffle weave crepe is an unbalanced W weave with irregular slanted lines where the shapes vary.
Twill Weave
Zefron Finish Nylon with acrylic adhesive backing for cleaning
Twill Design for stretch & durability
Poly Crepe
Poly simple 4 harness weave
Poly Texture made with a crinkle- chemical plisse finish
on a crepe weave
MIXTURE FABRICS (Manmade & Natural fibers combined)
Provide Many Advantages: They
1. Improve soil resistance
2. Increase bulk & cover
3. Have a smoother feel
4. Reduce pilling
Blends use 2, 3 or 4 yarn types
• Cotton absorbents for texture & comfort
• Manmade / Poly for durability & lower cost
Poly, Co, Rayon
Mock Leno + Bedford Cord Modified Basket weave with 8 harness
Compound Simple Weaves more costly, more pattern , more colors
• Satin- lustrous front face with long floats
• Damask- reverse satin structures in a traditional design (Ex. tablecloth)
Compound Basket Weave = 8 harness weave with polyester & recycled texture yarns
Satin & Damask From History Collections
New Harmony, IN Satin Ribbon & W. H. Harrison Damask in CMC, Cincinnati, OH collections
1836 Damask from Tredwell NYC Interior
Satin & Damask from B. B & Beyond retail drapery
Residential Design with damask, satin stripe,
Complex / Compound Weaves Discussed
Dobby -bird’s eye, dotted swiss, weft dots evenly spaced in design Damask - satin weave ground with a reverse patterned floral design Jacquard - is any 8 harness complex weave: damask, brocade, tapestry. Brocade - jacquard with supplementary design from long floats seen on back Brocatelle - complex jacquard with tight 1-1 weave / short threads for design. Doublecloth - Two layers linked. Matelasse is a quilted look doublecloth Pile - velour, velvet, plush, corduroy, velveteen, terrycloth, loop carpet
Most Common Complex Weaves medium cost, more pattern , more colors
• Pile - extra set of yarns added to the ground to create a 3D effect
• Dobby- fabrics with small repeat patterns, dots, geometric shapes…
• Leno- paired warp yarns crossed over or twisted between the weft/ filling.
• Jacquard - elaborate multicolor designed patterns
Pile = extra set of yarns added to the
ground to create a 3D effect
Pile names = velour, velvet,
plush, corduroy, velveteen, terrycloth
PILE/ TRIAXIAL / 3 Element Weaves Use: carpet / upholstery depends on yarn content
Cut-Pile / Plush / Velvet / Loop Carpet- Cut or Uncut
Corduroy /Bedford Cord – usually cotton
Terrycloth / Uncut Pile / Looped Boucle
Wool, Poly, Nylon
70%Cotton-30% Poly Cotton for softness, Poly for strength
90%Wool & 10% Nylon fiber content Wool for warmth, softness & nylon warp for strength
Jacquard pattern for durability & design
Durable Airport Design Dobby Jacquard & multi color loop/ uncut pile carpet
REASONS to choose Fiber Blends or Mixture Fabrics in Interiors are
a)To obtain cross-dyed effects
b)To improve uniformity in manufacturing &
finishing
c)For economic reasons (COST)
d)To extend the effect of expensive fibers by
adding less costly ones
e)To improve the appearance or hand (touch)
f) To produce fabrics with improved
performance.
Complex Weaves / 8, 16 & 32 Harness Loom Construction
Jacquard - elaborate multicolor designed patterns Brocade – historic jacquard with design and long wefts floats on reverse with unused yarns Brocatelle - contemporary complex jacquard design that can be seen on reverse, tight weave that is more durable and less costly than brocade Pile / Carpet - extra set of yarns added to the ground to create a 3D effect with a loop
Brocade/ Brocatelle
Trevira Poly
Tapestry Design Brocatelle Weave
Desired but costly weaves
• Tapestry - pictorial jacquard weave with a “picture” design.
• Doublecloth - 8-32 harness to create 2 layers that mix & separate, which you can see as pockets when cut.
Zefron Finish applied to a Nylon fiber in a
Compound Twill Weave
75%Poly, 25%Cotton Poly-strength, Co- soft hand
Acrylic, Poly, Cotton fiber blend contents in a double cloth weave with
2 layers interchanged (16-32 harness loom)
Knits & Non Wovens Are Economical & Durable
WEFT KNITTING - Ex: pile (uncut/ cut) fabrics Use: casement & drapery fabrics Characteristics of new knits: heavy, firm, less stretchable WARP KNITTING - Ex: Raschel Knit Lace, Tricot Use: Lace tablecovers / sheers Characteristics: economical KNIT VARIATIONS - Ex: Knit-weave, Use: draperies, bedspreads, blankets Characteristics: easy drape, comfort, great recovery from stress,
Non-woven - felt, needlepunch, bonded fabric furniture filling or lining Non-textiles- foam cushions, or padding for carpet
Non-wovens
• Knit / Net
• Example- knit socks
• Interwoven/ braid, tufted
• Non-woven / needlepunch, web
Poly Knit
MicroNylon- New Tech
Hotel lobby, Cleveland, OH
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